CHAPTER XXI

THE GOVERNMENT OF THE NON-CHRISTIAN TRIBES

When I visited Benguet in July and August of 1900, I found conditions

there such that the early establishment of civil government seemed

practicable and desirable. The people had taken no part in the

insurrection and nowhere in the province was there any resistance

to American authority. An act providing for the government of the

province and its settlements was accordingly passed on November 23,

1900, Benguet being thus the first province to pass from the control

of the military.

In drafting this act I was fortunate in having the coöperation of

Mr. Otto Scheerer, a German citizen who had lived for a number of

years among the Benguet Igorots, understood them fully and was most

kindly disposed toward them.

The Benguet law, in considerably amplified form, was applied to Nueva

Vizcaya when that province was organized on January 28, 1902, and on

April 7, 1902, a carefully considered act entitled "An Act providing

for the Establishment of Local Civil Governments in the Townships

and Settlements of Nueva Vizcaya" was passed by the commission.

On May 28, 1902, the province of Lepanto-Bontoc was established. It

had three sub-provinces, Amburayan, Lepanto and Bontoc. The two Nueva

Vizcaya acts above mentioned were made applicable to it, and to its

towns, respectively.

On June 23, 1902, an act was passed organizing the province of Palawan

(Paragua) and extending to it, and to its towns, the more essential

provisions of the two Nueva Vizcaya acts.

On the same day Mindoro was incorporated with the province of

Marinduque under the regular Provincial Government Act, which was

then being made applicable to all provinces populated chiefly by

Filipinos. As might have been anticipated, it did not prove feasible

properly to administer the affairs of Mindoro under this act, and on

November 10, 1902, a province of Mindoro, including the main island

and numerous neighbouring small islands, was established under a law

embodying the essential provisions of the Nueva Vizcaya Act. Certain

provisions of the Nueva Vizcaya township and settlement act were made

applicable to its municipalities, while on December 4, 1902, other

provisions of the same act were made applicable to the settlements

of the wild Mangyans, who occupy the whole interior of this great

island so far as it is occupied at all.

The desirability of uniform legislation for the government of the

non-Christian tribes, except those of the Moro Province, soon became

evident, and after much experience in the practical working of the

several acts above mentioned under the conditions presented in the

five provinces, Benguet, Nueva Vizcaya, Lepanto-Bontoc, Palawan and

Mindoro, I drafted the so-called "Special Provincial Government Act,"

and "The Township Government Act." The former was made applicable to

the five provinces above mentioned, and the latter to all settlements

of non-Christian tribes throughout the Philippines except those of

the Moro Province.

On August 20, 1907, an act was passed carving the province of Agusan

out of territory which had previously belonged to Surigao and Misamis,

and organizing it under the Special Provincial Government Act.

Finally, on August 18, 1908, the Mountain Province was established

in northern Luzón.

At the same time that the Ifugao territory was separated from

Nueva Vizcaya there was added to the latter province the Ilongot

territory previously divided between Isabela, Tayabas, Nueva Ecija

and Pangasinán.

Before considering the details of the work accomplished in the

several special government provinces and sub-provinces, I will state

the general principles which have been found useful in bringing the

non-Christian peoples under control and in establishing friendly

relations with them, and will explain how these principles have been

applied in actual practice.

I have always considered the opening up of adequate lines of

communication an indispensable prerequisite to the control and

development of any country, and this is especially true of the

territory of the wild man. No matter how unruly he may be, he is apt

to become good when one can call on him at 2.30 A.M., since that is

the hour when devils, anítos and asuáng are abroad, and he therefore

wants to stay peaceably in his own house! Again and again we have

built a trail to an ugly, fighting, head-hunting settlement whose

people have at first thrown spears at our road labourers, but later,

when they found that the trail was really going to arrive, have ended

by building one out to meet it. Constabulary garrisons which we have

expected to be forced to establish have often proved unnecessary when

communication was opened up.

We have had scanty funds for public works in these regions. At the

outset I had to get along with four or five thousand dollars a year

in the territory now included in the Mountain Province and the task

which confronted me seemed utterly hopeless. Nevertheless, I made

a beginning and did the best I could. Now the Mountain Province has

annual receipts of about $85,000, of which some $65,000 are expended

for public works and permanent improvements. This is made possible by

the fact that the salaries and wages of the provincial officers, and

certain contingent expenses as well, are met by direct appropriation

of insular funds.

Another principle to which I have steadfastly adhered is never to

impose taxes on a wild man until he can be made to realize that direct

good to him will result from their collection. One of several reasons

why the Spaniards never could dominate the hill people of Luzón was

that they insisted at the very outset upon exacting "tribute" from

them. The hill people regarded the money thus contributed as a present

to the man who collected it, and rebelled against making presents to

people who did not treat them well and whom they did not like.

The most important tax in the special government provinces is the

so-called "public improvement tax."

The law imposing it does not become operative on the non-Christians

of any given territory without the prior approval of the secretary

of the interior.

It provides for the collection from every able-bodied adult male

between the ages of 18 and 55 of an annual contribution of two

pesos. [20] The taxpayer is allowed to render ten days of service

upon public works in lieu of cash payment if he prefers, and most

non-Christians do prefer to settle the obligation in this way. All

money derived from this source is expended on public works, going to

pay for supervision, dynamite, powder, caps, fuse, steel, road tools

and the like, as it is seldom necessary to hire labourers.

We paid for all labour on the first trails constructed, and it was

only when the people themselves learned to comprehend the usefulness

to them of improved means of communication that I made the public

improvement tax applicable to them.

Except under very special circumstances, I did not allow the

construction of a trail with a grade higher than six per cent. There

are two reasons for this rule. First, the torrential rain-storms of

the tropics rapidly destroy high-grade trails in spite of all efforts

to provide adequate drainage; second, if trails are constructed on

low grades, every shovelful of earth which is thrown is just so much

accomplished toward the eventual opening up of cart roads, carriage

roads or automobile roads, the whole subsequent question involved

being one of widening and surfacing.

In constructing a trail we first carefully stake what seems the best

possible line between the two points to be connected; then build on

this line a path which is cut into the hill [21] four feet, the dirt

being thrown outward. No special effort is made to give the bank

a proper slope; the Almighty does this in the course of the first

rainy season, when the earth sloughs off on to the trail in those

places where it stands too steeply. It is then promptly thrown off

the road-bed while still loose, and much hard pick and shovel work and

many "pop shots" are thus saved. Only the most necessary drainage is

provided before the first rainy season, for the reason that experience

has shown that what seem dry beds of streams and look as if they would

be converted into raging torrents during the rainy season sometimes

then hardly carry water enough to wash one's face in; while, on the

other hand, destructive torrents come charging down the crests of

hogbacks in places where one would least expect them, and cut out

the trail completely where they strike it. With the first rain the

maintenance gangs get to work, noting where drainage is especially

needed and providing it, throwing off loose earth and stones when

slides occur, and widening the trail or cutting off sharp corners

when not otherwise engaged.

American and Filipino road foremen were at first used for trail

construction, but the Igorots, Ifugaos and Kalingas, all of whom

are very intelligent people, soon learned to serve as foremen. I had

Ifugaos who ran about clad in clouts only, but were nevertheless quite

capable of carrying a road or trail across the face of a precipice,

doing all of the powder work.

The wild men soon learn to take great pride in their trails, and

usually keep them in an excellent state of repair. It is a remarkable

fact that on the thousand miles of road and trail which have been

constructed since the American occupation in the Mountain Province

and Nueva Vizcaya no one has as yet been murdered. In the wildest

regions there has been an understanding from the outset that people

travelling over government roads were to be let alone!

The establishment of government, and of a decent state of public

order, have gone hand in hand with the opening up of lines of

communication. Wherever practicable it is highly desirable to police

the wild man's country with wild men, and this has proved far easier

than was anticipated. The Bontoc Igorots make good, and the Ifugaos

most excellent, constabulary soldiers. They are faithful, efficient,

absolutely loyal and implicitly obedient. The Ifugaos are born

riflemen, and their carbine practice is little short of marvellous when

one considers their very limited experience. Natural fighters as they

are, the people of these two tribes make the best of soldiers. They are

absolutely fearless, and fight much as do the Ghurkas of India. Benguet

Igorots and Kalingas are now being enlisted as constabulary soldiers,

and from the very outset the people of many of the non-Christian tribes

of the islands have been used as policemen in their own territory.

The annual inspection trip which the secretary of the interior is

required by law to make to every province organized under the special

provincial government act has become very important in the control

and advancement of the non-Christian tribes.

It is now customary to hold fiestas, or as they are locally designated,

cañaos, at central points, to which are invited great numbers of

the wild people from the neighbouring country. At the outset these

gatherings served to bring together men who had hardly seen each other

except over the tops of their shields when lances were flying. They

were all friendly with me, but they were by no means friendly with

each other, and trouble threatened on various occasions. Within the

space of thirty seconds I have seen a couple of thousand men draw

their war knives and snatch up their lances, and have feared that a

record killing was about to occur, but in the end the excited warriors

always quieted down.

We took advantage of these great gatherings to bring about the

settlement of old difficulties between hostile towns and they have

thus proved an important factor in the establishment of peace and

order throughout the wild man's territory. Furthermore, they afford

excellent opportunity to discuss past events and future plans under the

most favourable conditions. I well remember the occasion on which the

Ifugao headman of Quiangan requested that the public improvement tax

be imposed upon them and their fellow tribesmen. There was at that

time but one decent trail in this sub-province. It had been built

by paid labour. Some of the headmen who had gone to Bontoc with me

had seen excellent trails there and had asked why Ifugao could not

have some just as good. I had replied that the Bontoc Igorots were

more civilized than the Ifugaos and had come so to appreciate the

benefit of trails that they were willing to build them without being

paid for their labour. Vehement exception was taken to my contention

that the Bontoc Igorots were further advanced than the Ifugaos. The

latter insisted that they were much better men than the Igorots, and

could and would build better trails. I explained to them in detail

the practical working of the public improvement tax, and asked if

they would be willing to have this contribution imposed on them. They

insisted that they wanted it, and I finally gave it to them, although

I doubted their ability to bring their people into line. On the

following day there was a precisely similar occurrence at Banaue. I

soon found that I had underrated the influence of the headmen. That

year twenty thousand Ifugaos worked out their road tax. The following

year twenty-four thousand men rendered the prescribed ten days'

service; and the number has steadily increased year by year ever since,

with the result that the sub-province is crisscrossed with trails,

many of which are already wide enough for considerable distances to

permit the passage of automobiles if they could be brought there,

while the main line of communication with Bontoc on the one hand and

the capital of Nueva Vizcaya on the other is open for cart travel

from the western to the eastern boundary of the sub-province.

At many of the cañaos we have athletic contests, which the wild

men, with their splendid physical development, greatly enjoy. It

is much better for two hostile towns to settle their differences

by a tug-of-war, or a wrestling match, than by fighting over them,

and they are now often quite willing to adopt these more pacific

means provided the audience is sufficiently large and enthusiastic,

for the average wild man has a very human love of playing to the

gallery. He takes to the athletic contests of the American like a

duck to the water, and soon learns to excel in them. No sooner is a

cañao over than those who have taken part in it begin to look forward

to the next one, and the small expense involved is repaid a thousand

fold in the good feeling produced.

In the course of a year the people of each of the non-Christian tribes

do many things for us simply because we want them to, and it seems

only fair that we should give them at least one opportunity during

the same period to have a good time in their own way.

The personal equation is of vital importance in dealing with wild

men. They know nothing of laws or policies, but they understand

individuals uncommonly well.

The men in immediate control of them must be absolutely fearless,

must make good every promise or threat, must never punish except in

case of deliberate wrong-doing committed in spite of warning duly

given, and must, when punishment is thus made necessary, inflict it

sternly but not in anger. The wild man thus dealt with is likely to

call quits when he has had enough, and if he promises to behave must

be treated like a man of his word, which he usually is.

As a result of such just, firm and kindly treatment governors and

lieutenant-governors soon find themselves endowed by their people

with powers far in excess of those conferred on them by law. They are

ex officio justices of the peace, but are just as apt to be asked to

settle a head-hunting feud between towns, which has caused a dozen

bloody murders, as a quarrel growing out of the joint ownership of

a pig. They are the law and the prophets, and no appeals are taken

from any just decisions which they may make, nor is their authority

questioned. On the contrary, their people usually object when sent

to the courts, as is of course often necessary.

These officers are always on the watch for opportunities to get the

people of hostile towns to swap head-axes, or dance together, and so

become friends.

When one town has been in the very act of raiding another the timely

appearance of an unarmed Apo [22] has sufficed to shame the culprits

into laying down their arms and going home without them.

No one who has not seen for himself can appreciate the courage,

tact and patience of the handful of Americans who have not only

brought under control the wildest tribes of the Philippines, but have

established the most friendly relations with them.

Having now outlined in a general way the principles which have been

followed in the work for the non-Christian tribes of the special

government provinces, I will set forth some of the more important

results which have been obtained.

In Benguet, which under the Spanish régime was organized

as a comandancia, [23] there dwell a kindly, industrious,

self-respecting, silent tribe of agriculturists known as the Benguet

Igorots. Governmental control was established over them by the

Spaniards. They have never indulged in head-hunting nor caused any

serious disturbance of public order, but have persistently refused

to give up their ancient religious beliefs, and for this reason were

not allowed by the Spaniards to obtain education, so that, with rare

individual exceptions, they were completely illiterate. When I first

visited their country I found the men clad in clouts, supplemented in

the case of the more wealthy by cotton blankets. The women usually

wore both skirts and upper garments, and bound towels around their

heads for turbans.

The Benguet Igorots were formerly compelled to trade for the

necessaries of life in the lowlands of the neighbouring province of

Union, where they were shamelessly exploited by the Filipinos. They

had been obliged by the Spaniards to pay taxes for which they received

no adequate return. They had furthermore been roughly treated by the

Insurgents during the war, and were extremely fearful and timid. Men

ran away at my approach. Women overtaken unexpectedly on the trail

leaped down the steep mountain sides, squatting where they first

struck the ground and covering their faces with their hands.

It proved a simple matter to establish friendly and helpful relations

with these simple and gentle people. Fortunately for them Mr. Otto

Scheerer, who had lived among them for years, helped organize their

settlements. Some of them were still so wild that they ran away at

his approach, sitting up on the high mountain sides and watching him

from a distance, but declining to come down. Patience, perseverance

and kindness soon overcame their fears, and local governments were

established in the several settlements.

Travel through Benguet was then dangerous and difficult because of the

condition of the trails, which were mere footpaths. None of the streams

were bridged. Work was promptly begun upon a trail system, and now

one can ride a large horse rapidly to every settlement of importance.

At first the people had nothing to sell, and no money with which to

buy what they needed. From time to time they packed coffee and Irish

potatoes down to the lowlands and traded them for salt, cloth and

steel, which they needed, and for vino, which was poison to them.

We have protected them in their property rights and encouraged them

to increase their agricultural holdings. As they were too ignorant to

understand and exercise their right to obtain free patent to small

tracts of land which they had long occupied and cultivated, I sent

out a special survey party to help them make out their applications

in due form.

The gradual development of Baguio, first as a health resort and later

as the summer capital, afforded them an ever increasing market for

their products; while trail construction, the opening of the Benguet

Road and the erection of buildings at Baguio made it possible for every

one desiring it to secure remunerative employment. In the old Spanish

days they had been forced to build trails without compensation, and

to feed themselves while doing it. When they realized that the new

régime had come to stay, their gratitude knew no bounds.

For a time they could not be persuaded to try the white man's

medicines, but ultimately the wife of the most important chief

in the province, who was dying of dysentery, was persuaded to let

Dr. J. B. Thomas, a very competent American government physician, treat

her case. She recovered, and the news spread far and wide. After that

Igorots came in constantly increasing numbers to the hospital which

had meanwhile been established, and to-day their sick and injured

are often carried to it from a distance of fifty miles or more.

Schools were soon established in several important settlements. The

boys proved apt pupils. At the outset parents would not allow their

girls to attend. Gradually the prejudice against sending them to

school was overcome, and at three different places girls are now

given instruction in English and in practical industrial work.

The children learn English readily and the old folks pick it

up from them. Mrs. Alice M. Kelly, who started the first Igorot

school, taught her boys respectfully to salute her in the morning,

and shortly thereafter American travellers over the Benguet trails

were addressed by Igorots with the cheerful greeting, "Good morning,

Mrs. Kelly." Their feelings were doubtless identical with those of the

traveller in Japan to whom a beginning student of book English said,

"Good morning, Sir, or Madam, as the case may be!"

The Benguet Igorots have responded quickly to the opportunities

afforded them, and several serious dangers which have threatened

their progress have been met and overcome.

The Filipino peoples will never become victims of alcoholism. They

drink in moderation, but seldom become intoxicated. The non-Christian

peoples, on the contrary, never lose an opportunity to get

boiling drunk. All of them make fermented alcoholic drinks of their

own. Fortunately most of these beverages are comparatively mild and

harmless; but if a hill man can get hold of bad vino or worse whiskey

he will get so drunk that he thinks he has to hang on to the grass

in order to lie on the ground.

The Filipinos had long taken advantage of this weakness of the

Benguet-Lepanto Igorots to debauch them with vino and cheat them

while they were intoxicated. I regret to say that since the American

occupation some white men who wanted them as labourers have used liquor

as a bait. Because of these conditions, and of more or less similar

ones throughout the rest of the wild man's territory, I drafted

and secured the passage of an act making it a criminal offence to

sell or give white man's liquor to a wild man, or for such a man to

drink such liquor or have it in his possession. This law has been very

successfully enforced. Although Benguet-Lepanto Igorots have sometimes

succeeded in purchasing liquor at Baguio or Cervantes, their use of

strong alcoholic stimulants has steadily decreased, and throughout much

of the wild man's territory strong drink is absolutely unobtainable.

The Benguet Igorots have an abiding love for gambling, and some of

them learned new tricks, which did them no good, through contact with

Filipinos when working on the Benguet Road. Strict enforcement of the

law against gambling has, however, prevented any considerable spread

of this evil.

One of the most interesting results thus far obtained is the arousing

of a strong commercial instinct among them. It was literally true

at the outset that one could not buy from them an egg, a chicken or

a basket of camotes, much less a pig or a cow. Now special market

buildings have been erected for them at Baguio, and they are thronged

on Sundays. The Igorots have money and spend it wisely. They also

have farm products to sell, know what they are worth, and insist on

getting full value for them. Among other things there may be mentioned

sleek cattle, the best fat hogs grown in the Philippines, chickens,

eggs, cabbages, Irish potatoes, peas, beans, tomatoes, squashes,

camotes and strawberries.

There have been some interesting episodes in connection with the

work for the Benguet Igorots. At one time it became necessary for the

provincial governor, Wm. F. Pack, to undergo a severe and dangerous

surgical operation. Word spread through Benguet that the doctors

were going to cut him to pieces. Palasi, an old Igorot chief of Atok,

gathered his cohorts and came in hot haste to Baguio to stop it. He

was assured by Governor Pack himself that the cutting was to be done

with his consent, but still entertained some doubts about the matter

and asked to be allowed to be present. His request was granted. There

was then no operating room in Baguio, so one was extemporized in the

governor's house. He walked out to the operating table, and Palasi,

who was standing by, once more asked him if he was to be cut up with

his own consent, offering to stop the performance even then if the

governor so wished!

On March 30, 1913, I sat at a luncheon given at Trinidad, Benguet,

in honour of former Lieutenant-Governor E. A. Eckman, who had just

been promoted to the governorship of the Mountain Province. At the

long tables were seated a representative gathering of decently clad

Benguet Igorot head-men, the hosts of the occasion. They understood

the use of knives, forks and spoons. At the close of the luncheon they

presented Governor Eckman with a beautiful silver cup. The presentation

speech was made by an Igorot named Juan Cariño, who had been shot and

badly wounded by American soldiers from whom he foolishly endeavoured

to escape in 1900!

Fortunately old Juan was not killed. Like every other Igorot in Benguet

he is to-day a good friend of the Americans. The people of his tribe

are now sober, industrious, cheerful, contented and prosperous. As

time passes they keep cleaner, wear more and better clothes and build

better houses. In this case, at least, a primitive people has come

in close contact with the white man and has profited by it.

Lepanto, like Benguet, was a comandancia in the Spanish days. Its

Igorot inhabitants are fellow-tribesmen of their Benguet neighbours,

and like them are, and have long been, peaceful agriculturists,

raising camotes, rice, coffee and cattle. They also mine gold and

copper. In the extreme southeastern and the extreme northern parts

of Lepanto the people are wilder and less law-abiding than those of

Benguet, and some of them are prone to indulge in cattle stealing.

This subprovince has one Ilocano town, Cervantes, which was made the

capital of the province of Lepanto-Bontoc. At the outset communication

with the coast was maintained over a very bad horse-trail crossing the

coast range at Tilad Pass. It zigzagged up one slope of the mountains

and down the other on a grade such as to make travel over it very

difficult. Furthermore, after reaching the lowlands on the west side

of the range, it crossed a river some fourteen times. During the rainy

season there were weeks at a time during which this stream could not

be forded. In the early days of the American occupation a good wagon

road was built from the coast to the point where the trail began,

and the trail itself was put in the best possible condition. It was

subsequently well maintained, but after the establishment of a Filipino

provincial government in South Ilocos the wagon road was allowed

to fall into such a state of neglect that travel over it, even for

persons on horseback, became impossible during wet weather. Mr. Kane,

the supervisor of the Mountain Province, was nearly drowned in mud

when trying to ride over it, being thrown from his horse into soft

ooze so deep that his hands did not reach bottom, and had it not

been for a timely rescue by Filipinos who chanced to be passing,

he would certainly have lost his life.

Although forty or fifty thousand pesos' worth of supplies were annually

sent into the mountain country by the people of South Ilocos over this

trail, that province refused to spend a peso in keeping the connecting

road up. The constantly growing trade of the mountain country made it,

in my opinion, necessary that it should have a good outlet to the

coast, and a route for a road was surveyed from Cervantes directly

west over the Malaya range, traversing the subprovince of Amburayan

from east to west and coming out at the municipality of Tagudin. In

order to prevent the occurrence of a state of affairs such as had

rendered the Tilad Pass trail practically useless during much of

the rainy season, this Ilocano town was annexed to Lepanto-Bontoc,

thus giving the province a route to the coast within the limits of

its own territory.

The people of Tagudin were at first inclined to protest against

annexation to the country of the non-Christians, but soon discovered

that the change was greatly to their advantage. Their town had long

been threatened with destruction by the encroachment of the Amburayan

River, and they had appealed in vain to South Ilocos for help. The

Mountain Province gave them assistance in the construction of a

protecting wall which held the river within bounds and adequately

safeguarded the town. Their business rapidly increased when Tagudin

became the western terminus of an important trade route. They soon

began to take an active interest in improving local conditions, and

their municipality was gradually changed from a dirty, down-at-the-heel

place to a neat, clean, sanitary town in which its people could take

justifiable pride. An old feud which had long separated the leading

men into two parties so bitterly hostile to each other that the mere

fact of advocacy of a given measure by one of them was sufficient to

cause determined opposition to it by the other, died out, and Tagudin

is to-day quite a model place in comparison with the general run of

Filipino towns.

The opening up of transportation lines has placed the people of

Lepanto within much easier reach of a market for their rice, coffee

and cattle. The successful combating of cattle disease by the Bureau

of Agriculture has been a great boon to them, as has the suppression of

the liquor traffic. Schools have been established in a number of their

settlements. Last, but by no means least, their lives are no longer

endangered by the head-hunting Bontoc Igorots. They are now a peaceful,

prosperous people, and are progressing steadily in civilization.

In Spanish days there was a comandancia known as Amburayan wedged in

between the provinces of La Union and Ilocos Sur. After the American

occupation this territory was at first organized as a part of Ilocos

Sur, but it soon became necessary to make of it a separate subprovince

and add it to Lepanto-Bontoc, to the end that its people might be

adequately protected. In contact on two sides with Christian Filipinos,

they were shamefully maltreated and oppressed, and they appealed to

me for help.

Filipinos were graciously permitting them to cut firewood and lumber

in the public forests, and taking the lion's share of the products

in return for their consent! They were debauching the Igorots with

vino. I remember particularly the case of one unfortunate individual

who owned five carabaos, two of which got to fighting. As usually

happens with these animals, the one that was whipped ran away, and

the victor blindly pursued it. Both charged over a precipice and broke

their legs. The owner killed them, dressed them, and divided the meat

among his family and friends. He was arrested, given a mock trial for

killing carabaos without a license, and fined three carabaos--all he

had left--which of course went to his persecutors!

Instances of this sort of thing could be indefinitely multiplied.

Amburayan was freed from the vino traffic soon after it became a

subprovince of Lepanto-Bontoc. This alone was a great boon to its

Igorot inhabitants, who little by little were helped to assert

their rights as they gained greater confidence in their American

lieutenant-governor and learned to go to him freely with their

troubles. They had so long been helpless and hopeless that it was some

time before they could be convinced that a new day had dawned for them.

And now let us betake ourselves to the country of the real wild man,

and consider briefly past and present conditions in the subprovince

of Ifugao.

The people of the tribe known as Ifugaos are a remarkable lot. Their

country is almost entirely made up of exceptionally steep mountain

sides with hardly a naturally level piece of ground in it. On almost

precipitous slopes they have built wonderful series of irrigated rice

terraces held in position by stone retaining walls which have been laid

without mortar or cementing material of any kind, and are so skilfully

constructed that they withstand even the terrific rains which sometimes

occur during typhoons. Accurate rainfall statistics for Ifugao are not

obtainable, but, as we have seen, in the neighbouring subprovince of

Benguet, there is of record a period of twenty-four hours during which

forty-nine and nine tenths inches of rain fell! Under such conditions

as this, exceptionally good work is necessary to prevent structures of

any sort built on mountain sides from sliding into the valleys below.

Up to the time of the American occupation the Ifugaos had always

been inveterate head-hunters. Unlike the Bontoc Igorots, who depend

on large numbers of fighting men for protection, they live in small

villages usually placed in inaccessible spots which can be reached

only by ascending the almost perpendicular rice-terrace walls.

Not only were the people of this tribe then constantly fighting among

themselves, but they from time to time raided the Bontoc country or

that of the Kalingas, and they persistently victimized the people of

Nueva Vizcaya, making travel so unsafe on the main road between Nueva

Vizcaya and Isabela that the Spaniards found it necessary to maintain

several garrisons along it, and forbade private persons to pass over

it without a military escort. Even so, parties of travellers were cut

down from time to time, the savages making their attacks at the noon

hour when Spanish soldiers had a way of going to sleep beside the road.

I have already narrated my earliest experiences in this subprovince,

which occurred in 1903, and have called attention to the fact that

when I returned in 1905 I was able to traverse it from east to west

without the slightest danger. This condition of affairs was due to the

efforts of Governor Louis G. Knight, supplemented by those of Captain

L. E. Case of the Philippine constabulary, who had established his

headquarters at Banaue and had exercised a strong influence over his

unruly constituents.

Perhaps I ought to change my statement and say that order was

established by Captain Case, assisted by Governor Knight. Captain Case

was very fortunate in his dealings with the Ifugaos. He was a kindly

man, who won their friendship at the outset. He resorted to stern

measures only when such measures were so imperatively necessary that

the Ifugaos themselves fully recognized the justice of employing them.

On my trip through the Ifugao country in 1906 I was accompanied from

Mayoyao to Banaue by Lieutenant Jeff D. Gallman, who had come to the

former place to meet me. This young man had been especially selected

by Colonel Rivers, of the Philippine constabulary, to be trained for

work among the Ifugaos. Never was a selection more fortunate. When

Captain Case injured himself by over-exertion in climbing a steep,

terraced mountain side in the hot sun, and had to return to the United

States for recuperation, Gallman took up his work and devoted himself

most effectively to the task of bringing the Ifugaos under control,

protecting them, and improving their conditions. He was a dead shot

with revolver and carbine; was absolutely fearless; was of a kindly,

cheerful disposition, and soon not only won their respect but gained

their love.

As the years went by, the Ifugaos came to regard him as but little

less than a god. He had extraordinary success in training them

for service as constabulary soldiers. On the occasion of the first

general rifle competition between all the constabulary organizations

in northern Luzón ten Ifugao soldiers were sent to the lowlands to

participate. Gallman, who had trained them, was travelling with me at

the time, so they were taken down by a comparatively inexperienced

officer who, instead of selecting the best ten men from among the

ninety possible candidates, took ten from the twenty who happened to

be stationed at Mayoyao.

The hot climate of the lowlands troubled them. The Filipino

constabulary soldiers made fun of them because they wore no trousers,

and bedevilled them in various ways. The best shot among them lost his

nerve in consequence. Nevertheless, when the competition was over they

ranked Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, respectively, an Ilocano

soldier from the lowlands being tied with the last man for tenth place!

Ifugao soldiers are submissive to discipline, obey orders implicitly,

and are loyal and brave to a fault. When on duty they attend strictly

to business. No prisoner ever yet escaped from one of them. This is

more than can be said of the Bontoc Igorots. It is of record that on

one occasion when a prisoner guarded by a raw recruit of the latter

tribe made a break for liberty, the recruit followed him, firing

as he ran. After missing the fleeing man five times, he threw his

carbine at him, lance-fashion, and speared him with the bayonet! So

long as an Ifugao has a cartridge in his magazine he does not indulge

in bayonet practice.

The same general policy was pursued in Ifugao which had been found

so effective elsewhere. Lines of communication were opened up;

after a short time criminals were for the most part apprehended and

turned in by the head-men themselves; whenever possible, hostile

towns were left to sulk until they had learned from the experience

of their neighbours that there was nothing to be afraid of or to

complain about, and voluntarily came into the fold; head-hunting was

suppressed with a heavy hand, but only after due warning as to what

the fate of transgressors would be. It is now some six years since a

head has been taken in this region. Travel not only in Nueva Vizcaya

but in Ifugao itself is at present absolutely safe, and general

conditions as to law and order are better than those which prevail

in many American communities. The people have been assisted in the

construction of irrigation ditches, and little by little are being

persuaded to come down from their steep and overpopulated mountain

sides to the neighbouring fertile, level vacant plains. They are loyal

and friendly to a marked degree, and I experience no greater pleasure

than that which I derive from travelling through their country.

Credit for this happy result is chiefly due to the efforts of Jeff

D. Gallman, who speedily rose to be a captain in the constabulary and

at an early date was made lieutenant-governor of Ifugao. He has done

a monumental work for civilization in the Philippines.

The Kalinga country was at the outset administered as a

part of Bontoc. This made that subprovince so large that one

lieutenant-governor could not hope satisfactorily to cover it,

especially as there were no good lines of communication. Although a

constabulary garrison was early stationed at the town of Lubuagan,

comparatively little progress was made in bringing the Kalingas under

effective control until their territory was made a separate subprovince

of the Mountain Province and Lieutenant-Governor Walter F. Hale,

of Amburayan, was transferred to it as its lieutenant-governor.

Lieutenant-Governor Hale has now been in the special government

service longer than any other man who remains in it, and has an

admirable record for quiet efficiency. Like Gallman, he is a man with

chilled-steel nerve, and he needed it in the early days in Kalinga

where the people, who had been allowed to run wild too long, did not

take as kindly to the establishment of governmental control as had

the Bontoc Igorots and the Ifugaos. The Kalingas are a fine lot of

head-hunting savages, physically magnificently developed, mentally

acute, but naturally very wild. Hale soon made friends with many of

the local chiefs, and thereafter when he received invitations from

outlying rancherias to come over and have his head taken would quietly

accept to the extent of setting out accompanied by a few soldiers,

or none at all, and talking the matter over with the people who had

made the threat! In the end they always decided that he was too good

a man to kill.

Here, as in Ifugao, we felt our way, avoiding trouble with hostile

settlements as long as it was possible to do so. And here, as in

Bontoc and Ifugao, head-hunting was abolished and law and order

were established practically without killing. In a few instances

settlements which absolutely refused to come into the fold, and

persisted in raiding and killing in the territory of people who

had already become friendly, were given severe lessons, which they

invariably took in good part.

One of the pleasant things about dealing with people like the Kalingas

and the Ifugaos is their manliness when they fight. They let one know,

so plainly that there can be no mistake about it, whether they are

friendly or hostile, and even if thoroughly whipped they bear no ill

will provided they know that they deserve a whipping, but come calmly

walking into camp to tell you that they have had enough and are going

to be good. And they keep their promises.

In Kalinga, as elsewhere throughout the Mountain Province outside of

Apayao, an admirable trail system has now been opened up and travel

is not only safe but comfortable. The people are most friendly and

loyal, and while head-hunting has not completely disappeared, cases

of it are extremely rare and occur only in the most remote parts of

the subprovince.

Apayao has proved a hard nut to crack. As previously stated, I made

a trip across this subprovince from west to east in 1906, without

encountering any hostility whatsoever. Unfortunately, the officer

who commanded my escort saw fit to go blundering back there with a

constabulary command a few weeks later. He managed to get into a fight

and was whipped and chased out of the country. A so-called punitive

expedition was then sent in, which came near meeting a similar fate,

but finally withdrew in fairly good order after having inflicted

slight damage on the town of Guennéd, the people of which made the

original attack.

Apayao was at first organized as a subprovince of Cagayan, and

Colonel Blas Villamor, who had accompanied me on my two longest

exploration trips through northern Luzón, was appointed its

lieutenant-governor. The attitude of the provincial officials of

Cagayan toward the difficult task which confronted them in Apayao was

most unsatisfactory. Indeed, the governor of that province informed me

that in his opinion the best way to settle the Apayao problem was to

kill all of the inhabitants. As Colonel Villamor reported that there

were some fifty-three thousand of them [24] this procedure would have

presented practical, as well as moral, difficulties! I myself was of

the opinion that the Apayao people, who proved to be wild Tingians,

were altogether too good to kill.

Colonel Villamor was a native of Abra, where approximately half the

population is made up of Tingians who have attained to a high degree

of civilization. He was already quite familiar with the dialect

spoken by these people, and speedily learned the language of their

wild brethren in Apayao, many of whom understood Ilocano, which was

his native tongue.

At the outset he made excellent progress in bringing his people

under control. The task was undoubtedly more difficult than that

in any other subprovince of the Mountain Province, both because the

Spaniards had failed to penetrate into this region, leaving the people

untouched by civilization up to the time of the American occupation,

and for the further reason that their head-hunting is connected with

religious beliefs. They think that when a man dies his prospect for a

good time in the future world is bad unless the members of his family

take a head within six months, and this idea has a tendency to keep

society in a somewhat disturbed condition.

For reasons which I have never been able fully to fathom, Villamor's

progress in establishing governmental control grew steadily slower as

time went by, and ultimately came to a standstill. During my absence

from the islands it was deemed best to accept his resignation, for

reasons not immediately connected with his administration of the

affairs of his subprovince. Before surrendering his post he caused

word to be spread among the Tingians that the kindly policy which

had thus far been pursued in dealing with them was to be superseded

by one of severity, greatly alarming them, and seriously retarding

work which he had quite auspiciously begun. There was absolutely no

justification for his statements, as no one thought for a moment of

dealing with the Apayao Tingians in a fashion differing at all from

that invariably followed in our relations with non-Christians in the

special government provinces.

Mr. Norman G. Connor was appointed to succeed Señor

Villamor. Mr. Connor had been acting governor of Nueva Vizcaya and

had rendered very satisfactory service. He has made material progress

in establishing control over the people of Apayao, where the work

of trail construction has now begun. At the outset communication

was maintained by boats on the Abulúg River and its branches, near

which most of the wild Tingian villages are situated, but it is a

dangerous stream to navigate, especially when in flood, and lines of

land communication must therefore be opened up.

We found the subprovince of Bontoc peopled by a tribe of wild, warlike,

head-hunting Igorots over whom the Spaniards had never been able to

establish effective control. At the time of the American occupation

their numerous settlements were constantly at war with each other,

and with the Kalingas and the Ifugaos as well.

The Bontoc Igorots build large towns and depend on the numbers of their

hardy fighting men for protection. Each town formerly kept a profit and

loss account of heads with every town of its enemies. Physically these

people are splendid men, and we soon found that they were usually both

brave and fair in their fighting, formally making and breaking peace,

and serving due notice on their enemies before attacking.

If a small town felt itself aggrieved by a big one, it would send

a messenger to say, "You have more fighting men than we have, but

they are no good! Pick fifteen of the best from your thousand and

send them to a certain place at a certain time to meet fifteen real

fighting men selected from among our five hundred." At the appointed

time the thirty warriors would meet in deadly combat, while their

fellow-townsmen looked on.

The Bontoc Igorots are naturally truthful and honest, and they soon

became most friendly, gladly bringing many of their troubles to their

lieutenant-governor for settlement. Fortunately, head-accounts between

different towns can be adjusted by proper payments made by those who

hold the highest scores. We took advantage of this fact to establish

peace between the towns, and when once established it was, as a rule,

religiously kept.

Trail construction was promptly inaugurated and has been steadily

pushed. Most of the towns have thus been made readily accessible.

When friendly relations had been established, and we were in a position

to back orders with force if necessary, settlement after settlement

was warned that head-hunting must cease and was further informed as to

what would happen if the mandate was disobeyed. Certain dare-devils

promptly broke over, partly, I fancy, to see what would happen,

and partly, no doubt, because they found the influence of tribal

customs too strong to resist. We made our warnings come true. One

settlement required three bitter lessons. For others a single mild

one sufficed. The majority of the towns were content to get their

experience vicariously. We were amazed at our own success in stopping

this horrible practice. At the outset we burned towns if their people

engaged in head-hunting. [25] The Igorots recognized the justice of

this action because the whole town was invariably cognizant of, and

party to, every head-hunting raid made by any of its people. Later,

when head-hunting became comparatively rare, we began to deal with

the individuals concerned. They were arrested, brought before the

courts, and tried like any other criminals. To-day head-hunting in

Bontoc is almost unknown. When it does occur the people themselves

usually capture and turn over the culprits.

The respect of the Bontoc Igorots for the law is extraordinary. In

1910 a Constabulary soldier shot the presidente of Tinglayan without

just cause. The people of the place rushed to arms, meaning to kill

the soldier. Chief Agpad, assisted by the son of the murdered man,

took station before the door of the house in which the assailant had

sought refuge, and the two stood off their fellow-townsmen, saying

that the government had promised to kill evil-doers and that this

man must be turned over to the government to be killed! When I passed

through their town a few weeks later, with Governor-General Forbes,

they begged to have him killed promptly.

In the early days I myself had a rather stormy clash with some of the

Bontoc Igorots. During Aguinaldo's long flight he had passed through

half a dozen of their towns, as had the American soldiers who pursued

him. The Igorots did not like this, so tore out the trail to Ifugao,

between Bontoc and Samoqui, and built high-walled rice paddies where

it had been, with the result that persons making the journey had to

use the river bed for several miles. This was all very well if the

river was low, but was no joke if it chanced to be in flood.

I ordered that the trail be rebuilt, the Igorots to be paid for their

work, and for the resulting damage to their rice fields, and this

was done.

The lieutenant-governor was a weak man, and the Igorots, after getting

their money, tore the trail out again and rebuilt their stone terrace

walls across the place where it had been, just to see what he would

do about it. He did nothing. I found things in this condition when

I arrived, and was obliged to come down the river bed at dusk, with

the result that my horse and I took several impromptu baths.

The Samoqui warriors came dancing out to meet me, playing their gansas

[26] and making a grand hullabaloo. Summoning my sternest expression,

I refused to shake hands with them, telling them to go home and to

report at Bontoc at nine the following morning.

The fighting men of the town of Bontoc met me on the other side of

the river, and I served them the same way. The official under whose

nose they had destroyed the trail was greatly alarmed, and assured me

that if I ordered it rebuilt, as I told him I would do, there would

be a fight, and the Igorots would cut the heads off all the Americans

in town, including the ladies. He added, "Think how the ladies would

look without any heads!" While this was a disquieting reflection,

I remained obdurate.

At the appointed hour the Samoqui and Bontoc men appeared, armed with

head-axes and lances. I asked them if they would rebuild that trail,

and they said no! I told them that if they did not I would cut their

main irrigating ditch and put a constabulary guard on it to see that

it was not repaired until they changed their minds. This might have

meant the loss of their rice crop. They knew me quite as well as

they did their lieutenant-governor, and promptly rebuilt the trail

for nothing, as I told them they must.

When the Mountain Province was established, the town of Bontoc

was made the capital, as Cervantes, which had been the capital of

Lepanto-Bontoc, was hot, had proved unhealthful, and was not centrally

situated. Bontoc has a cool, delightful climate, is near the geographic

center of the province, and from it radiates a road and trail system

of constantly increasing importance. Things have moved rapidly there

since the status of the place was changed.

To-day the town has modern public buildings of brick and stone. The

bricks have been made, burned and laid by Igorots. Much of the stone

has been cut and laid by Igorots. The mortar used has been mixed

by Igorots with lime burned by Igorots. Some of the carpenter work

has been done by Igorots. There is a modern hospital to which the

Igorots flock. There are schools in which Igorot boys and girls

learn the English language, and become adept in the practice of

useful industries.

Perhaps the most unique of the Bontoc institutions is the provincial

jail. Years ago I discovered to my horror that a two-year sentence

to Bilibid, the insular penitentiary, was a death sentence for a

hill-man! Not all who were sent there died, but the average term

of life of men from the hills was two years only, while those who

served out their sentences and returned to their mountain homes had

invariably become adepts in crime as the result of prolonged contact

with vicious Filipinos. I promptly drafted an act providing for

the establishment at Bontoc of a penitentiary where all prisoners

from the highlands should be confined, and the commission passed

it. The prison has been made a real educational institution. Most

of its inmates have been guilty of crimes of violence, committed in

accordance with tribal customs, and are not vicious at heart. The

jail building is perfectly sanitary. Its occupants are required to

keep their persons clean and their quarters both clean and in perfect

order. They live amid healthful surroundings and receive abundant and

nourishing food. They are taught useful trades and are compelled to

work hard, which they do not in the least mind, as industry is the

rule in the mountain country. They usually leave the jail better men

than when they entered it, and thereafter, instead of being a menace

to law and order, assist in their enforcement and maintenance.

We do odd things with some of these prisoners. Last year we paroled

a man from Ifugao who had a score of heads to his credit. Learning

that his people believed him to be dead and were greatly troubled,

we told him to go home, show himself to them, tell them how he was

treated in jail, and come back. He did it!

Proof of the kindliness of the relations which have existed with the

Bontoc Igorots is found in the fact that no member of this tribe has

ever yet turned his hand against an American. On the contrary, there

are not a few Americans who owe their lives to Igorots. Agpad, of

Tinglayan, has twice dived into rivers swollen by typhoons and rescued

Americans who had sunk for the last time beneath the rushing, muddy

waters, while their fellow-countrymen stood by paralyzed with fear.

Last year there occurred an event of profound significance. In

the past, American officials have often worked hard for days to get

representatives of two hostile towns to dance together, for this would

make friends of them. On the occasion in question there had gathered

at Bontoc to meet me representatives from every settlement in the

subprovince. Each town had brought its gansas and its dancers. On

the second day of my visit the people of one of the towns started

a dance on the plaza. They were promptly joined by representatives

from another town which had long been hostile to them. People from

yet other towns followed suit, until finally the plaza swarmed with a

great crowd of dancers in which every settlement in the subprovince

was represented. Even at that late day I should not have dared to

attempt to bring about such a thing. It happened of itself, and to

the initiated told an eloquent tale of the results of our years of

patient work!

The first time I climbed Polis Mountain, on my way from the Bontoc

country to the land of the Ifugaos, four Igorots went ahead of me,

armed with head-axes and lances, carrying their shields in position. At

each turn in the steep, worn-out trail, they drew back their lances

ready to throw. I had eighty-six armed men with me, and knew that I

might need them. To-day I travel through the length and breadth of

the Mountain Province unescorted and unarmed. Furthermore, I usually

take my wife with me.

Prior to 1903, if an Ifugao showed himself on the north side of the

Polis range he lost his head. Now people of this tribe stroll into

the town of Bontoc almost daily. They travel north through the Bontoc

Igorot country to Lubuagan, in Kalinga, and west to Cervantes, in

Lepanto, or even to Tagudin on the coast, crossing three subprovinces

on the latter trip. They also go south to Baguio.

All freight was formerly packed in from the coast on men's backs a

distance of eighty odd miles over steep, narrow, stony trails which

were really foot-paths. Now it comes in carts over a good road which

has a maximum grade of six per cent.

The people of the settlement had to get their water from the river. Now

it is piped into town.

There was not a shop in the place, and every one had to go to the

coast to make the smallest purchases. There are at present half a

dozen good stores, beside the provincial exchange, a store where the

government sells the Igorots what they want at reasonable prices,

thus preventing shopkeepers from overcharging them.

Commodious quarters for visiting Igorots and Ifugaos have been

provided, and there is a fine market where they may display and sell

their products. This market is a busy place.

The population is rapidly increasing, now that head-hunting has

practically ceased. The area of cultivated lands steadily grows larger,

for the men are freed from the necessity of being constantly under

arms, and we are helping them to get more irrigation water, so that

they can extend their rice fields.

There are a thousand or so Bontoc Igorots in Benguet to-day,

contracting for railroad excavation work. Times have changed.

When Nueva Vizcaya was first organized, its non-Christian inhabitants

greatly outnumbered its Filipino population, as there were at least

one hundred fifteen thousand Ifugaos in addition to several thousand

Ilongots and a few Benguet Igorots, locally known as Isinayes,

who had strayed over the boundary line. With the transfer of the

Ifugao territory to the Mountain Province, the Filipinos were left

in the decided majority. Later all of the Ilongot territory which

had previously belonged to the provinces of Isabela, Tayabas, Nueva

Ecija and Pangasinán was added to Nueva Vizcaya, in order that the

members of this wild and primitive tribe might be brought under one

provincial administration.

The Ilongots are a strictly forest-inhabiting people. Many of them

have a considerable admixture of Negrito blood and live a semi-nomadic

life. Their settlements, which are small and more or less transient,

are usually situated in remote and inaccessible places surrounded by

the densest jungle. It is at present impracticable to open up horse

trails through their country, for the number of inhabitants is so

small, in comparison with the area occupied, that such trails could

not be built with Ilongot labour, nor indeed could they be maintained

even if built. One main trail is, however, being constructed, and it

is planned to build foot trails from this to the more important of

the settlements which it does not reach.

A special assistant to the Provincial Governor of Nueva Vizcaya for

work among the Ilongots has been appointed and assigned to duty at

Baler, on the Pacific coast of Luzón, from which place he can more

conveniently reach the Ilongots east of the coast range. These people

were very wild at the outset, and it proved difficult to establish

friendly relations with them, but this has now been successfully

accomplished, and their fear of the white man is largely a thing of

the past.

There is a school for Ilongot children at Campoté. They prove to be

bright, capable pupils.

At the same place there has been established a government exchange,

where the Ilongots can sell such articles of their own manufacture as

they wish to market, and can purchase what they need at moderate cost.

They still fight more or less with each other, but depredations by

them upon Filipinos have ceased.

The Philippines: Past and Present (Volume 2 of 2) · 第 3 / 20 章