4 miles W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. The church, conspicuously placed
on the hill, dates from the thirteenth century; it was restored in
1866-68. It is a structure of many parts, consisting of nave of three
bays, chancel, N. chapel, N. aisle, N. and S. porches, and W. tower.
Note the two altar tombs beneath the chancel arcade, at the S. side of
the chapel, each supporting the stone effigies of a male and female,
presumably man and wife. They bear no inscriptions, but from the arms
and shields figured on one of them it is conjectured to be the tomb of
Sir John Thornbury, Kt., and his lady; whilst the other is probably that
of his son Philip Thornbury and his wife: the former dates from about
1340-50. Early in the fourteenth century the manor belonged to a Knight
named Frewell or de Freville, hence the old adjunct of the village.
_Rowney Abbey_, now a modern mansion, takes its name from Rowenea
Priory, founded by Conan, Duke of Brittany, about 1164, and occupied for
several generations by a Benedictine prioress and nuns. At Munden
Street, or Dane End, ¼ mile S. from Little Munden, were formerly two or
three large tumuli, long since levelled.
_Nash Mills_, on the river Gade, is a hamlet in the parish of Apsley
End, 2 miles S. from Hemel Hempstead. The House was the seat of Sir
John Evans, K.C.B., F.R.S., etc., the great archæologist, who had a rich
collection of coins, prehistoric flints, implements, etc., some of which
were discovered in the neighbourhood.
_Nettleden_ was formerly in Bucks, but was transferred to Herts a few
years ago. The village is beautifully situated at the foot of a wooded
hill, at the meeting of the roads from Great Gaddesden and Little
Gaddesden. The small parish church is a Perp. structure of stone, with a
N. porch; it was partly rebuilt by the last Duke of Bridgewater, and was
restored in 1887. Note the carved oak pulpit, which, like that in Little
Gaddesden Church, was the gift of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888). Sir John
Cotton, Vice-Chamberlain to Edward VI., was buried here. The nearest
station is Berkhampstead, L.&N.W.R., 2½ miles S.W.
_New Mill_ is 1 mile N. from Tring, between the hamlets of Little Tring
and Tring Grove. The famous reservoirs, often the resting-place of rare
water-fowl, are within a short walk.
_Newgate Street_, a small hamlet in Hatfield parish, is, however, 6
miles S.E. from that town. It is in a prettily wooded district, close to
_Ponsbourne Park_.
NEWNHAM (2½ miles N. from Baldock) is a village lying on high ground,
with an E.E. battlemented church on a little knoll above a brook. It
consists of chancel, nave of four bays with clerestory, S. aisle and
porch, and W. tower. The interior can show little of interest, but there
are brasses, (1) on chancel floor, to Sir William Dyer, Bart. (d.
1680); (2) to a family, the man in civic costume (_circa_ 1490); (3) to
Joan, wife of James Dowman (d. 1607), and her eight children.
_Newsell_, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Barkway, lies a little W. from the
Cambridge Road. The nearest station is Royston, G.N.R., 3½ miles N.W.
Newsell Park is a modern mansion S. from the hamlet.
_No Man's Land_ is a large tract of common, partly covered by furze,
stretching left from the road between Sandridge and Wheathampstead. Some
years ago a farmer close by collected quite a museum of stuffed birds,
etc., shot in the neighbourhood, which many persons visited, but I
understand the collection is now dispersed.
In 1884 Sir John Evans showed to Mr. W. G. Smith "a good white ovate
palæolithic implement," one of two found on No Man's Land Common. In
December, 1886, Mr. Smith visited the gravel pits there and found a
somewhat similar implement _in situ_; this latter is engraved in his
_Man the Primæval Savage_. At the same time Mr. Smith found two
neolithic celts on the common.
_Nobland Green_ (1¼ mile N.W. from Widford Station, G.E.R.) is little
more than a farm and a few cottages.
NORTHAW (2 miles E. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.) is a village on
the Middlesex border, near the source of the river Colne, and a place of
considerable interest. In the wood N. from the village there lived a
hermit named Sigar, the subject of some monkish legends. He lived about
the time of Henry I., and was buried beside Roger the Monk (see Markyate
Street) in the S. aisle of the Baptistery of St. Alban's Abbey. There
was originally a small church close to the village, E.E. or perhaps late
Norman; this was replaced by the cruciform church of St. Thomas Becket,
a pseudo-Perp. structure, destroyed by fire in 1881; the present
cruciform building of Ancaster stone is Dec. with a conspicuous W. tower
carrying four pinnacles. Note the piscina, three sedilia and credence
table in chancel; also the finely carved font of Ancaster stone, on
marble pillars, presented by the children of the parish. There are
several memorial windows, of only local interest; but the pulpit and
reredos are both good, the former showing the four Evangelists in
canopied recesses. Unfortunately, only a portion of the old registers
were saved from the fire of 1881.
NORTHCHURCH, or Berkhampstead St. Mary, forms one long street with Great
Berkhampstead, but is a separate village, 1 mile W. from Berkhampstead
Station, L.&N.W.R. The cruciform church is Dec.; it stands in a small
graveyard close to the high road to Tring. The most curious memorial is
the brass near the porch to Peter the Wild Boy, who was found wild in a
forest in Hanover in 1725 and brought to England at the desire of Queen
Caroline. He lived at a farm at Broadway (_q.v._) and died in 1785.
There is also a curious sentence about this church in Chauncy: "Henry
Axtil, a rich Man starved himself, and was buried here April 12, 1625, 1
Car. I." The church was entirely restored in 1883, when the present N.
aisle was added.
_Northfield_, a small hamlet, is a little S. from Ivinghoe (Bucks).
NORTON, near the tiny river Ivel and the Roman Icknield Way, is 1 mile
W. from Baldock. The large building on the hill-top close by is the
Three Counties Asylum. The manor belonged to the Abbot of St. Albans at
the time of the Conquest; and in the year 1260 Roger de Norton, who took
his name from this village, became the twenty-fourth abbot of that
monastery. The church, E.E., is of great antiquity, some parts of it
having been little altered; it is of flint, and stands at the N.E. end
of the village. It contains two or three old memorials, but none of
historic interest. A pretty walk from the church leads through Norton
Bury and beside the Ivel to Radwell Mill.
_Norton Green_, between Knebworth Park and Stevenage, is ½ mile W. from
the Great North Road. It is a small hamlet.
_Nup End_ (1½ mile W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is almost one with
Knebworth Green. Codicote church is 1 mile S.W.
_Nuthampstead_ (about 5 miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is
a large hamlet on the Essex border. The parish churches of Barkway (W.),
Anstey (S.W.), and Meesdon (S.E.) may all be reached within a short
walk.
OFFLEY or OFFLEY ST. LEGER (3 miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a village at
the meeting of the ways from Hitchin, Temple Dinsley, and Lilley. It
owes its name to Offa, King of the Mercians, who had a palace here, as
we learn from his life by Matthew Paris, and its adjunct to the St.
Legiers, who became Lords of the Manor soon after the Conquest. Miss
Hester Salusbury, who became Mrs. Thrale, and afterwards Mrs. Piozzi,
used as a child to visit at _Offley Place_, in the park close to the
church. The old mansion was built by Sir Richard Spencer in 1600, and in
part rebuilt early last century, when its style was changed from
Jacobean to a form of Gothic.
The church (restored Perp.) stands in the park, close to the road. Note
(1) monument in chancel to Sir H. Penrice, Kt. (d. 1752); a figure of
Truth standing on a sarcophagus of black marble, the whole finely
executed; (2) monument in white marble, by Nollekens, to Sir Thomas
Salusbury, Kt. (d. 1773), and Sarah his wife (d. 1804); (3) brass with
effigy, to John Samwell (d. 1529), and his wives Elizabeth and Joan; (4)
brass to a civilian and his family (_circa_ 1530); (5) well carved Perp.
font.
_Offley, Little_, is a hamlet 1¼ mile N.W. from the above.
_Offley Green_ is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R. The walk
beside Julians[l] Park to Rushden, 1 mile S.W., is very pleasant.
_Offley Holes_ (2½ miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a small hamlet. Offley
Grange, Offley Hoo, Offley Cross and Offley Bottom are all in the
immediate neighbourhood, W. and N.W.
_Old Hall Green_ (1½ mile W. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) lies W. from
the Old North Road. It is a small hamlet.
OXHEY (2 miles S. from Watford) is a hamlet on the Middlesex border. It
has a good modern church, E.E. in style. N. lies _Oxhey Place_, on the
site of the old home of the Heydon family, rebuilt by Sir William
Bucknall in 1668, and again by Hon. William Bucknall in 1799. The
chapel, close to the old mansions, was spared by both those renovators,
but has since been repeatedly restored. It contains many interesting
monuments, conspicuous among which is that on the S. wall to Sir James
Altham (d. 1617) who had built the chapel on the site of an earlier
structure in 1612. The old judge is represented kneeling in his robes
between two pillars, beneath a canopy of alabaster; behind him is the
effigy of his third wife Helen (Saunderson). Note the carved oak
seventeenth century reredos, occupying the whole of the E. end of the
chapel. It is divided into three compartments by two columns, massive
and twisted, with Corinthian capitals; these support a frieze, with
cornice and pediment. Note also the oak ceiling, and the five Tudor
windows (replaced). _Oxhey Hall_, N.W. from the chapel, is now a farm;
but can still show the wonderful ceiling of carved oak, in sixteen
panels, which must be very ancient.
PANSHANGER PARK, Lord Desborough, K.C.V.O, should be visited by all who
love an historic home surrounded by beautiful scenery. It lies almost
midway between Hatfield and Ware Parks; the house itself is 1½ mile N.
from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. The park is very extensive (about 900
acres); the river Maran flows through it from W. to S.E., opening into a
lake S. from the house. It is famous for its splendid timber; the
wonderful "Panshanger Oak," one of the very largest in England, stands
W. from the house.
Panshanger is not a "correct" structure from an architectural
standpoint; the writer of Murray's Handbook describes it well as "a
stucco-fronted, semi-castellated Gothic mansion of the Walpole-Wyatt
type". Most ramblers, however, are not architects, and the grey stone
mansion and its surroundings are, as a whole, as picturesque as they can
well be. The greater part of it was built by Peter, fifth Earl Cowper,
in 1801; but the picture gallery, overlooking the terrace and gardens,
was a later addition. The house was partially burnt in 1855. The older
home of the family stood at Cole Green--then called Colne Green.
The famous _Cowper Collection_ is largely the result of the taste and
perseverance of the third earl, who resided for some years at Florence.
Only a few of the pictures can be named here: Madonna, by Raphael
(1508); Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo; Mountainous Coast (fishermen in
foreground), by Salvator Rosa; Nativity, by Carlo Dolce; Virgin
Enthroned, by Paul Veronese; Third Earl Cowper and His Family; First
Earl Cowper, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; Francis Bacon, by Van Somer;
Turenne, by Rembrandt; Charles Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, by
Janssens. The whole collection is worth careful study. Permission to
view may be obtained when the family are away.
PARK STREET, a large hamlet with station 1/3 mile W. (L.&N.W.R.), is on
the river Colne, 2 miles S. from St. Albans. The parish church is at
Frogmore (_q.v._).
_Parker's Green_ (4 miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a
hamlet adjoining Wood End.
_Patient End_ may be reached from Braughing Station, G.E.R., 4 miles
S.E., the road being more direct than that from Westmill Station, about
the same distance as the crow flies. The hamlet lies between Albury and
Furneaux Pelham.
_Patmore Heath_ is 1 mile S.E. from the above.
_Pepperstock_, a hamlet on the Beds border, is a little W. from the
Harpenden-Luton road, and close to Luton Hoo Park.
_Perry Green_ (1¼ mile S.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.) is a small
scattered hamlet.
_Peter's Green_, on the Beds border, lies at the meeting of several
roads; the Half Moon and Rising Star with a few cottages comprise the
hamlet. The descent W. towards Chiltern Green Station, M.R., commands a
fine view, looking towards Luton Hoo Park. The several ways (one is
hardly more than a lane) lead S.E. to Kimpton, S. to Harpenden, N. to
Lawrence End Park, and N.E. to Breachwood Green and Bendish.
_Piccotts End_ is passed when going from Hemel Hempstead to Great
Gaddesden. It is on the river Gade, at the N.E. extremity of Gadesbridge
Park.
_Pin Green_ (1½ mile E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) lies between the
Great North Road and the river Beane.
PIRTON (3½ miles N.W. from Hitchin) is an ancient village on the Beds
border, said to owe its name to one Peri, who possessed it in Saxon
times. William I. gave it to Ralph de Limesie, or Limesy, who founded
the church and gave the tithes of it to the Abbey of St. Albans. The
site of the castle built by Ralph is thought to be at Toot Hill, W. from
the church, where a moat may be traced. The church was originally
cruciform, but the transepts have long disappeared; the tower, massive
and embattled, still standing between nave and chancel. Restoration has
been carefully carried on recently; the tower was rebuilt in 1877, but
some Norman work may still be traced in its arches. Note (1) monument
and curious inscription to Jane, wife of Thomas Docwra (d. 1645); (2)
double piscina, fourteenth century, in S. wall of chancel.
Pirton should be visited for the fine old houses in its neighbourhood.
_High Down_, S. from the church, is Elizabethan, with gables, twisted
chimneys and mullioned windows; it was formerly the home of the Docwras.
_Pirton Hall_, on a hill N.W. from the village, is also Elizabethan, and
the _Rectory Manor House_ and _Hammond's Farm_ are both ancient. In the
latter is some fine old carved oak.
_Plummers_ is 1½ mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R. It consists of
a few cottages.
_Ponfield_ lies between Bedwell and Bayfordbury Parks. It is a small
hamlet nearly 2 miles S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.
_Poplar's Green_ is on the river Maran, on the W. edge of Panshanger
Park. The old church at Tewin is less than 1 mile N.W. The station is
Cole Green.
_Potten End_ (2 miles N.E. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.) has a
modern chapel-of-ease to Nettleden (1 mile N.). The hamlet is prettily
situated between the rivers Gade and Bulbourne.
PRESTON (4 miles W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
beautifully situated on high ground. The Church of St. Martin is a small
building a few yards W. from the green, a modern erection; close by is
the Bunyan Chapel, and ½ mile N. is Bunyan's dell, where the author of
the _Pilgrim's Progress_ often preached. _Temple Dinsley_, a manor house
a little E. from the Red Lion, stands on the site of the preceptory of
the Knights Templars, founded by Bernard de Baliol in the reign of
Stephen.
_Primrose Hill_ is a hamlet in King's Langley parish, ½ mile N. from the
station, L.&N.W.R.
PUCKERIDGE, a village on the Old North Road, nearly 1 mile S.W. from
Braughing Station, G.E.R., was visited by Pepys on more than one
occasion. Here, at the White Hart Inn, the road divides, going left
nearly due N. to Royston and right to Cambridge. The village lies partly
in Standon and partly in Braughing parish. The nearest church is at
Standon, 1 mile S.E., but divine service is conducted in the church
schoolroom.
_Puddephats_ (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet in
Flamstead parish.
_Purwell Mill_, on the river Purwell or Pirrel, 1 mile E. from Hitchin,
stands near the spot where the tesselated pavement of a Roman villa was
discovered many years ago, in excellent preservation.
PUTTENHAM (1½ mile S. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R.) lies near
the Clinton chalk hills, in the extreme W. of the county, on the Bucks
border. The church, close to the village, is of several periods, parts
of the structure being E.E. and other portions Perp. and Tudor. Several
portions should be carefully noted: (1) very large embattled W. tower,
built of blocks of Ketton stone with flints laid in squares between each
block; (2) roof of nave, thought to date from _temp._ Edward IV.; with
two shields under the ridges, one bearing the arms of Zouch, the church
having belonged to the Priory of Ashby; (3) solid oak pews, probably
coeval with nave roof. The S. porch was rebuilt in 1889. The vill of
Puteham belonged to Leofwin, brother to Harold Godwin; William I. gave
it to his half-brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux.
_Queen Hoo Hall._ (See Bramfield.)
_Rabley Heath_ (1 mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) adjoins
Sallow Wood. Knebworth and Codicote churches are about equidistant (1¼
mile), N.W. and S.W. respectively.
RADLETT, with station on M.R. (main line), is about 5 miles S. from St.
Albans, on the high-road from the Marble Arch to that city. Seen left
from the train the neighbourhood is very pretty, the spire of the church
showing among the trees some distance before the station is reached. The
cruciform church is modern (1864), E. Dec. in style, with several good
windows of stained glass. A picturesque ramble may be taken by turning
into any lane in the vicinity, especially towards the Valley of the
Colne, W. A potter's kiln of the Roman Age was discovered here.
RADWELL, on the Beds border, is in a charming district, threaded by the
little river Ivel, 1½ mile N.N.W. from Baldock. The mill is reached by
turning left after passing The Compasses, a quaint old inn, where a
story is told of the "Maid of the Mill," a local beauty, who captured
many hearts in days long past.[5] Between The Compasses and the mill
stands the little Perp. church, very ancient, but in part restored on
several occasions. It has no tower, the two bells hanging in a small
turret at the W. end of nave. Here, as at Norton, there are several
memorials to the Pym family; and a few others worth noting: (1) brass,
with effigies, to John Bell, Gent. (d. 1516), and his two wives; this
was discovered during restoration, about twenty-five years ago, but the
inscription was copied by Chauncy, so it must have been hidden by some
alterations effected after, say, 1690; (2) marble monument to John
Parker, Kt. (d. 1595), and Mary, his wife (d. 1574); the latter was
buried at Baldock. There is also a small brass to Elizabeth (Gage or
Cage), wife of John Parker (d. 1602). The font is fourteenth century.
Radwell, formerly Reedwell, is said to owe its name to the many reeds
that grew by the river-side. There are plenty of moor hens, coots and
dab-chicks on the lake-like expansion of the Ivel near the mill.
[Footnote 5: The story of the "Maid of the Mill" is, I understand, told
in an early number of _Temple Bar_.]
_Red Heath_ is in the parish of Croxley Green, 2 miles N.N.E. from
Rickmansworth.
_Red Hill_, 4 miles E. from Baldock, is a small hamlet in a very quiet
neighbourhood. The nearest church is at Wallington, ¾ mile N.W.
_Julians_, a substantial house in the park, ½ mile S., was built early
in the seventeenth century.
REDBOURN (_i.e._, the road by the burn) lies on the old Watling Street,
4 miles N.W. from St. Albans. The river Ver, here a small stream, skirts
the E. side of the village. The old manor, like that of Abbots Langley,
was given to the Abbey of St. Albans by Egelwine the Black and
Wincelfled, his wife, in the days of Edward the Confessor. St.
Amphibalus was probably buried here after his martyrdom; his barrow was
on the Common, and the story of the removal of his bones to St. Albans
is narrated in Matthew Paris, and is referred to in the Introduction
(Section IX.). The church of St. Mary, at Church End, ¾ mile W. from the
station (M.R.), dates from Norman times; the only existing portions of
the ancient structure are the three columns of the N. aisle arcade, but
much thirteenth and fourteenth centuries work still stands. It was
largely rebuilt by Abbot John Wheathampsted (_temp._ Henry VI.). Note
(1) almost unique carved oak rood screen, double canopied; (2) pointed
arches of S. side of nave, replacing those defaced during the
Commonwealth; (3) Eastern sepulchre and sedilia in chancel; (4) piscinæ
in N. aisle and lady-chapel; (5) brass in chancel, with eight kneeling
effigies, without date; (6) brass in chancel to Richard Pecock, or Pekok
(d. 1512). There are silk and corn mills on the Ver, close by.
REED lies on the chalk range, midway between Buntingford and Royston,
about 3½ miles S. from Royston Station, G.N.R. The village lies right
from the Old North Road. One of the best Norman doorways in the county
is on the N. of the little church, which also contains good Dec.
portions. The tower alone was untouched during the restoration of sixty
years ago. Some remains of two moats are a little E. from the village;
Reed End, Reed Green and Reed Wood, are in the vicinity. The
neighbourhood is less wooded and picturesque than most of the county.
_Revel End_ (1½ mile S.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet.
RICKMANSWORTH is in the extreme S.W. of the county; the rivers Colne,
Chess, and Gade unite here, close to the Grand Junction Canal; and it is
easy to understand why the place was formerly called "Rykemereswearth,"
_i.e._, the rich moor-meadow. It is a compact little town with many
quaint houses and quainter by-paths. The residence now called _Basing
House_, in the High Street, was for some time the home of William Penn,
the Quaker; a photograph of it was long since reproduced in the
_Quiver_. The manor was given by Offa to the Abbots of St. Albans, who
retained it till the Dissolution, after which Edward VI. granted it to
Nicholas Ridley, Bishop of London. Henry III. granted a market to be
held in the town every Wednesday; it was subsequently held on Saturday,
but has long been discontinued. Paper-making and brewing are now largely
carried on in the neighbourhood.
The church, at the S. end of Church Street, was rebuilt (except the
tower) in 1826; and again in 1870, from designs by Sir Arthur Blomfield.
It is Perp., almost entirely embattled, and is constructed of flints,
with stone dressings. Note (1) sedilia, piscina and modern oak stalls
in chancel; (2) restored marble altar tomb carrying shield of arms, and
inscription to Sir Henry Cary, Baron of Leppington and Earl of Monmouth
(d. 1661); (3) brass with effigy to Thomas Day (d. 1613), and his wives
Alice (d. 1585), and Joane (d. 1598); a separate inscription in the
"Ashbie Chapple" ran--I am not sure if it is still preserved:--
"Here ly byrid undyr this stone
Thomas Davy and his two Wyfs Alice and Joan".
The vicarage is thought to be the oldest in Hertfordshire; it still
retains portions dating from the middle of the fifteenth century.
One mile S. is _Moor Park_ (Lord Ebury). The house has undergone many
changes. George Nevil, Archbishop of York, built a house in the park in
the reign of Edward IV., and sometimes entertained that monarch, and we
read of a lodge (was it Nevil's house?) being here when Cardinal Wolsey
owned the manor of "More Park". The estate changed hands several times
before we find it in the hands of the unfortunate James Fitzroy, Duke of
Monmouth, who is believed to have built a large mansion on the site of
the present house. This mansion was almost rebuilt by B. H. Styles, a
man who made a fortune over South Sea Shares, and is said to have spent
£130,000 in erecting and adorning his house in this beautiful park, with
the assistance of the architect Leoni. The house that Styles built still
largely survives in the present structure, after several alterations
and much embellishment during eighteenth, nineteenth and twentieth
centuries. It is a large and stately mansion of Portland stone, with
fine Corinthian portico, the columns of which are about 50 feet high.
The vast hall was almost covered with classical and mediæval designs by
Sir James Thornhill, who had to sue Styles before he could obtain his
remuneration; note the huge statues supporting the five marble doorways.
The house may be seen to advantage some distance from the terrace; but
it must be remembered that it no longer retains its wings, which were
removed when Mr. T. B. Rous lived at Moor Park towards the end of the
eighteenth century.