From Rama to St. Paul--Mississippi steamers--Slaves--Pilot--Race.
Early in July, 1860, we started on our journey. I was then in my
seventeenth year. We sailed from Collingwood on an American
propeller, which brought us to Milwaukee, on Lake Michigan. Here we
took a train through a part of Wisconsin to Lacrosse, on the
Mississippi River, which place we reached about midnight, and
immediately were transferred to a big Mississippi steamer.
Here everything was new--the style and build of the boat, long and
broad and flat, made to run in very shallow water.
The manner of propelling this huge craft was a very large wheel, as
wide as the boat, and fixed to the stern, and which in its
revolutions fairly churned the waters in her wake.
The system of navigation was so different; the pilot steered the
boat, not by his knowledge of the fixed channel, but by his
experience of the lights and shadows on the water which by day or
night indicated to him the deep and shallow parts.
Passengers and mails had no sooner been transferred, than tinkle!
tinkle! went the bells, and our big steamer quivered from stem to
stern, and then began to vibrate and shake as if in a fit of ague,
and we were out in the stream and breasting the current of this
mighty river.
Dancing was going on in the cabin of the boat when we went on board;
but soon all was quiet except the noise of the engines and the splash
of the paddles.
Next morning we were greeted with beautiful river scenery. Long
stretches, majestic bends, terraced banks, abrupt cliffs, succeeded
each other in grand array.
During the day we came to Lake Pepin, and here were joined to another
big steamer. The two were fastened together side by side to run the
length of the lake, and also to give the passengers of the other boat
opportunity to come aboard ours, and be entertained by music and
dancing.
The colored steward and waiters of our boat were a grand orchestra in
themselves.
One big colored man was master of ceremonies. Above the din of
machinery and splashing of huge paddles rose his voice in stentorian
tones: "Right!" "Left!" "Promenade!" "Change partners!" "Swing
partners!" And thus the fun went on that bright afternoon; while,
like a pair of Siamese twins, our big stern-wheelers ploughed up the
current of the "Big River," this being the literal translation of the
word Mississippi.
Both boats had crowds of Southern people and their slaves as
passengers; and if what we saw was the whole of slavery, these were
having a good time. But, as the colored barber on our boat said to
me, "This is the very bright side of it."
And then he asked me if we were not English. And when I told him we
were Canadians, he wanted me to ask father to help some of these
slaves to freedom. But it was not long after this when the mighty
struggle took place which resulted in the freeing of all the slaves.
These were the days of steamboats on the Mississippi, which Mark
Twain has immortalized.
From port to port the pilot reigned supreme. What a lordly fellow he
was! As soon as the boat was tied to the bank the captain and mate
took the reins, and they drove with a vengeance, putting off or
taking on freight at the stopping-places, and taking in cordwood from
the barge towed alongside in order to save time.
They made those "roust-abouts" jump. The captain would cuff, and the
mate would kick, and the two would vie with each other in profanity,
and thus they rushed things; and when ready, the pilot with quiet
dignity would resume his throne.
When the channel narrowed our boats parted, and to change the
excitement began a race.
Throw in the pitch pine-knots, fling in the chunks of bacon! Make
steam! more steam! is the meaning of the ringing of bells and the
messages which follow each other down from the pilot-house to the
engine-room.
This time we seemed as yet to be about matched, when our rival pilot
undertook to run between us and the bar, and in doing so ran his boat
hard and fast in the sand.
We gave him a parting cheer and went on, reaching St. Paul some
twenty-four hours ahead.
St. Paul, now a fine city, was then a mere village.