Upon the site of the west end of Cadogan Street stood an ancient house,

inhabited, in Bowack’s time, by Lady Matthews; it was afterwards known

for many years as the Marlborough Tavern and Cricket Grounds. It is

probable that the house was first established as a tavern during the

life-time of the great Duke of Marlborough, who, it is said, resided at

one time in Chelsea; hence Blenheim Street, &c., all contiguous.

* * * * *

The old Admiral Keppel Inn, with its tea gardens, was pulled down in

1856, on the site of which is now a large tavern.

* * * * *

CHELSEA COMMON was called in ancient records Chelsea Heath. It was

bounded on the north by the Fulham Road; on the east by Blacklands Lane,

now Marlborough Road; on the south by College Place, abutting on the

King’s Road; and on the west by Sydney Street. It was attached to the

Manor. Certain ancient houses, cottages, and farms, had a right of

pasturage for forty cows and twenty heifers. To keep these there was

always a cowkeeper, whose business it was to mark the cattle, to drive

home the cows at night to the several owners, and to impound all cattle

unmarked, or any horses which broke into the Common, or were found there.

* * * * *

When the Old Church was to be rebuilt, the Common was enclosed by the

consent of Charles Cheyne, Esq., Lord of the Manor, and the several

proprietors, for 21 years, to defray part of the charges, by a lease

bearing date March 1674, and thereby let to George Hill and Francis

Guildford, who enclosed it, and quietly enjoyed it till 1695, when it was

thrown open again. It would be an unnecessary waste of space to notice

what took place for some years afterwards.

* * * * *

At the commencement of the present century, however, the Lords of the

Manor, the Rector, and the other proprietors, let the Common on building

leases; after which the leases were found defective, by reason of one of

the proprietors being under age, and it being considered that the then

Rector could not bind his successors. An Act of Parliament was therefore

obtained, which confirmed the leases and made them effectual.

* * * * *

The Common (as was) has been for many years covered with houses,

comprising Keppel Street, Whitehead’s Grove, College Street, Marlborough

Square, Leader Street, &c.

* * * * *

The principal entrance to the Brompton County Court is in Whitehead’s

Grove. The house was formerly occupied by the Rev. Dr. Roberts, who gave

instruction to a limited number of young gentlemen who resided with him.

* * * * *

The Catholic Apostolic Church is situated in College Street, near to

Whitehead’s Grove. The exterior has some claim to architectural design,

although the entrance at the side is small, and there are no windows to

give relief to its massive appearance. There is ample light, however, in

the interior of the structure, and it is in every respect commodious.

* * * * *

The spacious Drill Hall belonging to the 1st Middlesex Engineer

Volunteers is also in College Street, near to the Fulham Road, where

recruits are enlisted.

MARLBOROUGH CHAPEL.

The old saying, “Where there is a will there is a way,” was never more

clearly exemplified than in the erection of this chapel, which occupies

the northern corner of Marlborough Square, and fully warrants the

inscription engraven on its summit, “This is the Lord’s doing, it is

marvellous in our eyes.” The necessity of having a place of worship in

the Methodist connexion had long been felt by many in the neighbourhood,

and a room was consequently taken in Pond Place, but as it proved

unsuitable for the purpose, Mr. Cripps, of Keppel Street, was induced to

open his large workshop for a Thursday evening service, and having

obtained a minister from the Hinde Street Circuit to preach the first

sermon, was amply repaid for his kindness by a very crowded and attentive

congregation. Mr. Hunt, an active and zealous member, commenced a class

on the following Sunday afternoon, which increased so rapidly as to make

him extremely anxious for the purchase of a spot of ground for a chapel,

and after many disappointments, and much discouragement, succeeded in

obtaining the present site. The difficulty of raising funds for its

erection was a subject of great moment, but, on communicating with many

friends, their offers of assistance were so numerous, and accompanied

with such generosity, that all doubt as to the result was at once

removed. In a few weeks promises were made, and fulfilled, of all kinds

of materials for its erection, both externally and internally, and, aided

by the gratuitous labours of many devoted followers, was completed and

opened July 30, 1849, about five months from its commencement. It is a

neat and commodious structure, and will hold about 400 persons. It has

lately undergone several alterations and improvements. There is an

excellent Sunday School attached to the chapel, at which there is an

average attendance of nearly 300 children.

* * * * *

The Brompton District Letter Sorting Post Office is situated nearly

opposite to the northern side of St. Luke’s Cemetery. It was erected a

few years ago, and is well adapted and arranged for the intended

purposes.

* * * * *

Near to Sydney Street, and to the north of St. Luke’s Church, was

formerly situated a solitary small house, known as Cock’s Hall. It was

said to have been built by Captain Cock, a petty officer in the Royal

Hospital. On a stone in the front of it was an inscription, “Built in

1710, rebuilt in 1767.”

* * * * *

Dr. Biber, author of “The Life of Pestalozzi,” and editor of the _John

Bull_ newspaper, resided for some time in Sydney Street, as did also

Thomas Wright, Esq., the antiquary and historical writer.

* * * * *

Henry Warren, Esq., President of the New Society of Water Colour

Painters, resided for some time opposite St. Luke’s Church, and at a

subsequent period at the corner of Church Street, which house has been

recently pulled down.

* * * * *

From the periodical publications of the time, and from other sources, it

appears the following persons have resided in this parish at various

periods:—

Robert Ratcliffe, the first Earl of Sussex of that family, and Lord High

Chamberlain of England, died at his palace at Chelsea, November 26, 1542.

Robert Viscount Fitzwalter was created Earl of Sussex by Henry VIII. in

1527. He married first, Elizabeth, daughter of Edward Stafford, Duke of

Buckingham; secondly, Margaret, daughter of Thomas, Earl of Derby;

thirdly, Mary, daughter of Sir John Arundel.

* * * * *

John Pym, a distinguished Member of the House of Commons, resided at

Chelsea for several years. {218} He was Member for Tavistock, and was a

remarkable instance of what wonders, strength of parts, and force of

eloquence, could effect. His influence was superior to authority, but by

many he was thought to have made a very bad use of power; his intent was

to reform, not to abolish the Government; and yet he was a principal

engine in bringing about a revolution, which he never intended, and which

he did not live to see; he died December 8, 1643. His excessive

application to public affairs is supposed to have hastened his death.

“He was a man,” says Hume, “as much hated by one party as respected by

the other. At London, he was considered as the victim of national

liberty, who had abridged his life by incessant labours for the interest

of his country. At Oxford, he was believed to have been struck with an

uncommon disease, and to have been consumed with vermin, as a mark of

Divine vengeance for his multiplied crimes and treasons. He had been so

little studious of improving his private fortune in those civil wars, of

which he had been one principal author, that the Parliament thought

themselves obliged from gratitude to pay the debts which he had

contracted.”

* * * * *

Count D’Estrades, who came to England to negociate the sale of Dunkirk,

as ambassador from Lewis XIV., resided at Chelsea during the years 1661

and 1662. This fact appears by the dates of his letters, of which a

translation appeared in 1755. He had his first audience of his Majesty

King Charles II. on the 27th of July of the former year. It was usual

for the Foreign Ambassadors at that time to make their public entry from

the Tower of London, but on this occasion the King sent his own coaches

to Chelsea, to carry the Ambassador, and the Count was accompanied by the

equipages of the whole of the diplomatic corps at that time in London.

Count D’Estrades was invited by letters from the Chancellor himself, in

order to conclude the bargain; £900,000 were demanded, £100,000 were

offered. By degrees the English lowered their demands, and the French

raised their offers. The bargain was concluded at £400,000.

* * * * *

Sir Robert Atkyns, either Chief Baron of the Exchequer, or his son, the

historian of Gloucestershire, appears by the Parish Books to have resided

in Chelsea in 1684.

Sir Robert Atkyns, K.B., was Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer under

William III., which office he held with distinguished ability and

integrity. This gentleman, by his influence, promoted the Revolution,

and by his pen defended it in tracts replete with legal knowledge.

* * * * *

The Hon. Colonel Rieutort died at his house, Chelsea, on the 24th

January, 1725–6, in his 66th year. He was born of a good family, at

Montpelier, in France, where he early bore arms; and, having left his

native country, on account of the Protestant religion, he attended

William III. in the wars of Ireland. He afterwards served the Crown of

Great Britain in Piedmont; and in 1703 assisted Count de Frise in the

vigorous defence of Landau, then besieged by the French. In 1704, he

went into Portugal with the Earl of Galway, who sent him to the relief of

the Prince of Hesse, then closely beset in Gibraltar, where he

contributed very much to the preservation of that important place. He

was interred in Chelsea Church.

THE CANCER HOSPITAL.

This hospital is situated in the Fulham Road, almost facing the

Consumption Hospital. The ceremony of laying the foundation stone was

performed on Monday, May 30, 1859, by Miss Burdett Coutts, in the

presence of a very numerous and respectable company, including Dr. Tait,

Bishop of London, Archdeacon Sinclair, Rev. D. Coleridge, Rev. J. B.

Owen, the Rev. Fathers Ballard and Bagshawe, Priests of the Oratory, at

Brompton, &c.

* * * * *

The Rev. Thomas Pearson commenced the proceedings with prayer, after

which the Bishop of London addressed the assemblage, and said they were

met to lay the foundation stone of a most excellent institution, destined

to bestow great blessings on a large portion of the community—a house for

the reception of persons afflicted with a most painful disease, demanding

the greatest sympathy from all friends of humanity. His Lordship, at the

close of his address, prayed for its permanency and success.

* * * * *

Miss Coutts having deposited the bottle, with the usual contents, in a

cavity in the lower stone and spread the mortar, the upper stone was duly

lowered into its place, after which Miss Coutts gave the customary knocks

and declared the stone duly laid.

* * * * *

The Rev. J. B. Owen next addressed the assembly, after which John Abel

Smith, Esq., proposed thanks to Miss Coutts for having done them the

honour of laying the foundation stone of the hospital. The Bishop of

London said that he had been requested by Miss Coutts to acknowledge the

compliment paid her, and to assure them that she should continue to take

the greatest interest in the prosperity of the Institution.

* * * * *

The building has a frontage of 130 ft. and a depth of 50 ft., surrounded

by an area of 10 ft., securing to the building the means of convenient

external communication and ventilation. It is constructed of plain white

Suffolk bricks, relieved with bands of red brick, keystones, and cornices

of stone dressing. The lower story contains the kitchens, larders, and

the rooms for the out-patients. The principal ground floor is approached

by a flight of steps, and this contains the hall and a handsome staircase

of stone, apartments for the house-surgeon and medical officers, and

wards for patients. Apparatus for heating and ventilating the building

is provided—everything, in short, that is calculated to add to the

comforts and assist the recovery of the patients. On the first story are

the wards. In the males it appears this direful disease shows itself

more frequently in the face, lip, and tongue, and among some of them in

the breast. Of the females nearly five-sixths suffer in the breast.

* * * * *

The building, in all its details, has been open about six years. It was

erected from the design of David Mocatta, Esq., by Messrs. Lawrence, at a

cost of £7,000. William Marsden, M.D. was the founder.

HOSPITAL FOR CONSUMPTION.

This is another admirable Institution, and, although it is situated just

beyond the boundary of Chelsea parish, on the north of the Fulham Road,

it has a very strong claim to be noticed in this work. It is a beautiful

Elizabethan structure, built in the shape of the letter H, the depth of

each wing being 190 ft., and the width of the building 200 ft. It stands

in a square piece of ground covering three acres, and faces the public

road. On entering the Lodge-gate there are three broad drives, one to

the central entrance, which opens to a cheerful hall upon the first

floor; another to the east entrance, which leads to the offices for the

transaction of the hospital business; and the third to the west entrance,

which is for the use of inmates and the friends of the in-patients on

visiting days.

* * * * *

The ground floor is on a level with the gardens. The west wing and part

of the centre of this floor contain the Dispensary and Out-patient-rooms,

Laboratory, Museum, and Sitting-rooms of the Resident Clinical

Assistants. The east wing contains the apartments of the Resident

Medical Officer and Matron, Linen-room, Store-room, Secretary’s Office,

Board-room, &c.

* * * * *

The first floor is devoted exclusively to Female Patients, saving small

rooms for the Chaplain, and for each of the two Head Nurses, and the two

requisite Sculleries, Baths, and Lavatories.

* * * * *

The arrangements of the second floor are precisely the same as those on

the first floor; the wards being occupied by Male Patients, for whom

there are about 107 beds.

* * * * *

The attic floor has comfortable dormitories for the Nurses and Servants,

and in the Tower-rooms are the sleeping apartments of the Resident

Clinical Assistants.

* * * * *

The Chapel stands on the north side of the hospital, and parallel with

the centre portion. The approach is by a corridor opposite the front

entrance, to which the patients have immediate access from their

respective galleries. The chaplain is the Rev. E. B. Allen, B.A., whose

faithful exhortations and kind manner of addressing the patients have

gained for him the esteem of all who know his worth.

* * * * *

His late R.H. the Prince Consort laid the foundation stone of the

hospital in 1844.

* * * * *

THE HOME.—This Institution is conducted and maintained by a few

benevolent Ladies, as an auxiliary to the above hospital, for persons who

are either waiting their turns for admission to the hospital, or after

leaving it, during the necessary time occupied in the full

re-establishment of their health and their search for employment. This

excellent “Home” is at Manor House, near Durham Place, Chelsea.

CHELSEA IMPROVEMENTS.

The Metropolitan Board of Works (Loans) Bill, empowering the Metropolitan

Board of Works to raise money to construct the Chelsea Embankment, and to

effect other improvements, having received the Royal assent, there is now

no doubt that the Chelsea Embankment works will be very shortly

commenced.

* * * * *

The Bills for the “Belgrave Market,” which will remove the unsightly

block of buildings between Turk’s Row and Jew’s Row, and the “Belgravia

and South Kensington New Road,” which will open a direct communication

from Eaton Square to the South Kensington Museum, have also become law.

* * * * *

The works of the Albert Bridge are still suspended, but there is reason

to hope that they will shortly be recommenced, and rapidly completed.

FIRST ELECTION OF MEMBERS FOR THE BOROUGH OF CHELSEA.

I will now endeavour to record a few impartial particulars respecting the

proceedings on the day of election, with the ultimate state of the poll,

when the two first members for the Borough of Chelsea were elected. The

nomination took place on Tuesday, the 17th of November, 1868, and the

election on the following day.

The hustings were erected in an open and central place near the South

Kensington Museum, and was capable of holding about 200 or 300 persons.

C. A. Bannister, Esq., of Chelsea, was the Returning Officer, and he

performed his duty with the utmost courtesy and fairness.

* * * * *

The candidates originally were C. Wentworth Dilke, Esq., {223} Sir Henry

Hoare, Dr. Russell, and C. J. Freake, Esq. Mr. Odger, a working man, who

was warmly supported by a large number of the constituency, retired

previous to the nomination from what may be fairly considered the most

honourable motives.

* * * * *

R. Freeman, Esq., of Kensington, proposed Mr. C. W. Dilke, and John Boyd,

Esq., of Argyll House, King’s Road, seconded the nomination.

* * * * *

Wingfield Baker, Esq., proposed Sir H. A. Hoare, and James Heywood, Esq.,

seconded.

* * * * *

The Hon. E. C. Curzon proposed Mr. Freake, and the Hon. Capt. Maude

seconded the nomination.

* * * * *

General Sir A. S. Wangle proposed Dr. Russell, and Captain Morley

seconded.

* * * * *

The show of hands was then taken, and there being a large majority for

Mr. C. W. Dilke and Sir H. A. Hoare, the two liberal candidates, a poll

was demanded on behalf of Dr. Russell and Mr. Freake, which took place on

the following day, the 18th of November, 1868. The proceedings were of

the most orderly character, generally speaking, at all the thirteen

polling booths.

* * * * *

The state of the poll was declared to be as follows:—

Dilke 7,357

Hoare 7,183

Russell 4,177

Freake 3,929

About 2,000 persons were present, and the four candidates with their

friends.

SINGULAR ASCENT IN THE CAPTIVE BALLOON.

A female inmate of St. George’s Workhouse, Fulham Road, named Hogg,

having completed her hundredth year, August 3, 1869, was asked by Mr.

Godrich, the medical officer, if, at her advanced age, there was any

particular wish he could gratify. Her reply was that she should like to

go up in the balloon, and see the world once more. Arrangements were

made for the following Thursday, and, accompanied by the Matron and a few

of Mr. Godrich’s friends, they ascended, and after enjoying themselves

for some considerable time descended quite safely, the centenarian

expressing herself much delighted with the aerial trip.

* * * * *

I have at length arrived at the conclusion of my work, and it now only

remains for me to bid the reader a respectful FAREWELL.

* * * * *

ERRATA.—At page 68, line 10, _read_ “East Meon, Hants,” instead of “East

Mere, Hants.”

* * * * *

* * * * *

FREDERICK BELL, PRINTER, KING’S ROAD.

Footnotes

{7} For on account of the presentation of these colours, see “Ranelagh,”

in a subsequent part of this work.

{19a} In 1534 he was attainted for denying the King’s supremacy, and

executed at Tyburn, the 7th of March in that year.—_Holinshed’s

Chronicle_.

{19b} He was ejected from the Rectory in 1554, for being a married

priest, but was restored by Queen Elizabeth.—_Strype’s Stowe_.

{19c} He gave, by will, £15 to the poor of this parish, and to the

repairing of the lead of the church. He was buried at Chelsea in 1615.

{23} From Dr. King’s MSS. it appears there had been a Clerk’s house and

school-rooms on this site previous to the erection of the present

building.

{26} There is on accidental mistake at page 3. The number of acres at

Kensal, belonging to the parish, should have been, as above, 137¾ acres.

{27} This ancient manor house stood on the site of Lawrence Street, near

the Old Church, and derived its name from having been the residence of

the Lawrence family for a long period.

{41} Mr. Thomas Bettsworth was well known to the parishioners and much

respected. He was Churchwarden at the New Church, and took an active

part in parochial affairs.

{57} Life of A. R. Bowes, Esq., by Jesse Foot.

{71} Earl Cadogan’s Records.

{72} I was well acquainted with these particulars, but for the sake of

accuracy I have taken an extract from “A Walk from Loudon to Fulham,” by

the late T. C. Croker, Esq., a work of great worth and highly

interesting. Published by William Tegg, London, 1860.

{82} See Old Church, page 14.

{85} Gent. Mag., 1753.

{87} Stephensiana, Monthly Magazine.

{100} Granger, vol. iv., p. 293.

{102} Gent. Mag. May, 1781.

{105} See History of the Manor, p. 24.

{107} Biog. Dram.

{108} Dr. Drake’s Essays.

{111} Pennant’s History of Whitford and Hollywell, p. 16.

{128} Mr. Goss, the present Organist of St. Paul’s Cathedral, was then

Organist of the Church.

{137} The Act specifies £20,000 and a Sixpenny Rate.

{144} In allusion to a very impressive sermon preached by the late Rev.

H. Blunt, from 1 Sam. xv. 14.

{147} The number that died of the plague this year in London was 30,578.

{150} The Writer’s father was one of the two Overseers of the Poor in

1805.

{153a} Drawn up in the hand-writing of the Rev. Dr. King, Rector.

{153b} We find mention of Bloody Gate and Bridge as early as the reign

of Queen Elizabeth. This spot was situated at the eastern entrance into

Sloane Square, and where Chelsea is divided from St. George’s, Hanover

Square.

{153c} The whole of the land, now the site of Sloane Street, was

anciently called “Blackland.” It extended as far as the Marlborough

Road, some few years since known as Blackland Lane.

{155} Gent. Mag., 1753.

{159} Annual Register, 1771, p. 160.

{177} Queen’s Road West was formerly called Paradise Row.

{184} Gent. Mag. 1747. pp. 298, 400.

{188} Rev. G. R. Gleig’s “Chelsea Hospital.”

{199} These Colours are deposited in the Old Church.

{218} Granger’s Biog. Hist., vol. ii. p. 211.

{223} Now Sir Charles Wentworth Dilke.

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