Sacred to Flora a pavilion stands,
And yet a second temple neighb’ring near
Nurses the fragrance of the various year;
Of Davey this, of Colvill that, the care,
While both the favour of the goddess share.
But not for her—the deity of flowers—
_Alone_ the incense breathes, still higher Powers:—
Fair Venus marks each temple for her own,
And FASHION sits upon a blossom’d throne.
She, pow’r supreme! bids vanquish’d Flora kneel,
And drags proud Beauty at her chariot wheel.
The Cyprian Queen asserts her loftier sway,
And blushing rivals with a smile obey.
At Fashion’s shrine unnumber’d suppliants bow,
And to their idol chaunt the sacred vow.
A thousand Eves, each as their mother fair,
To these gay Edens every hour repair:
And though the wreaths boast but a fleeting bloom,
And often press at eve a twilight tomb,
Still, as by magic, we behold each morn
A fresh supply the pillag’d scenes adorn;
And though the lovely plunderers bear away
The fairy sweets that open’d with the day;
Though one fair Paradise is lost each night,
Another blooms with the returning light.
Thus, strange to tell! near London you behold
The age of FASHION, BEAUTY, and of GOLD.
The old White Hart public-house and tea-gardens, situated on the opposite
side of the road to Mr. Davey’s grounds, was a rather ancient-looking
place of resort. It was well-conducted, and occasionally a great many
persons visited it. On its site is now a very respectable tavern.
* * * * *
Near to this house, a little to the east, about 1818, a poor man was
sitting by the roadside, apparently in the most pitiable state of hunger
and destitution. A pensioner belonging to Chelsea Hospital, a man of
colour, was passing along at the time with a can of soup and a small loaf
of bread, which he had just previously received as his dinner allowance,
some of the men being allowed to have private lodgings. The pensioner
gazed for a moment at the wretched object of misery, and then, with a
heart full of sympathy, gave him some of the soup and bread. Such an act
of benevolence excited the attention of a very young man, who, whenever
he met the kind-hearted black pensioner, always felt a feeling of respect
for him. Some time afterwards it came to the knowledge of this youth
that the pensioner had been convicted of a certain crime, not now a
capital offence, and sentenced to be executed. This communication very
much surprised him, but he could not erase from his memory the humane
conduct he had witnessed. Accordingly, he went to Newgate on the
following day, unknown to his friends, to see the condemned malefactor.
On his arrival at the prison the turnkey at the entrance door refused him
admittance, and told him, in a gruff manner, that he must get an order.
He then went direct to the Sheriff’s residence, and, after some
conversation, obtained a special order for admission. The turnkey now
became very respectful, and the young man was immediately conducted to
the yard where the condemned prisoners took the benefit of the fresh air.
The aged convict’s appearance was much altered, and during nearly the
whole time of the visit tears rolled down his cheeks. He was thus
visited several times, and, at length, through a petition presented by
the authorities at Chelsea Hospital, and another from some of the
parishioners, the unhappy black man’s sentence was mitigated to
transportation for life. At one of the interviews, the culprit asked for
some memorial of the young man’s kindness, having been previously told
that his life would be spared, and a Bible was given to him, with the
name of the youthful donor written in it. An assurance was given that he
would see him again that week, but when the young man went the poor black
pensioner had been removed from the prison, and he never heard of him
afterwards. The evidence produced at the trial fully justified the
verdict of being guilty of the charge, but there was gross culpability on
the part of the prosecutrix.
* * * * *
A little beyond the old White Hart tea gardens, to the west, on the same
side of the road, was the residence of the elder Mr. Downing. It stood
in a neatly laid out garden, and resembled very much in appearance one of
those old but comfortable retreats which may still be seen by the
roadside in some parts of the country. Adjoining the garden was his
extensive Floor Cloth Manufactory (on the site of which is now Wellington
Square). This spacious building was situated a short distance from the
road, and the approach to it was by a carriage-way on each side, the
centre being a grass plat. In this manufactory were held most of the
earlier annual meetings of the Chelsea Auxiliary Bible Society, which
were invariably crowded. Amongst the speakers were the Rev. G. Clark,
M.A., the Rev. John Owen, M.A., the Rev. Joseph Hughes, M.A., the Rev.
John Morison, D.D., the Rev. R. H. Shepherd, the Rev. John Bunce, and
several others. Mr. Downing, sen., was a gentleman esteemed alike for
his piety and benevolence, and his sons and other branches of the family
have at all times maintained a similar respect.
* * * * *
The residence and manufactory which we have just described was pulled
down some years ago, and the present one was then erected. A deplorable
event occurred, about 38 years since, at Messrs. Downings’ new Floor
Cloth Manufactory, which it is requisite to notice in a work of this
description. A young man, whose name was Butler, the son of very worthy
parents, and who had borne a tolerably good character previous to the
fatal event we are about to mention, was convicted and executed at
Newgate, for setting fire to a portion of the premises. The fire broke
out in or near to the stables, and as it occurred on the Sunday morning,
between the hours of twelve and one o’clock, the horses were of course
locked in them. It was with great difficulty that they were rescued.
The evidence, although principally circumstantial, resulted in the jury
finding a verdict of “Guilty.” Notwithstanding the most strenuous
efforts to save the life of the young man, he suffered the extreme
penalty of the then law. A Wesleyan minister, who attended him at his
last moments, published a pamphlet stating his reasons for believing that
he was innocent. He was interred in St. Luke’s Burial Ground, and the
Church was crowded to excess.
* * * * *
On the same side of the road, and opposite Wellington Square, was
formerly the Nursery belonging to Mr. Moore. A little further westward
was the residence of Mr. Evans, sen., known as Box Farm. For many years
he lived there, and was much respected in the parish.
* * * * *
Smith Street was begun to be built in 1794, by the late Thomas Smith,
Esq., of Manor Terrace, but it was not finally; completed until about
1807.
* * * * *
Mr. Little’s Nursery Ground was established many years since, and at the
present time it is celebrated for the production of some of the choicest
plants and flowers.
* * * * *
Jubilee Place was first opened in 1809, and named in commemoration of
that event in the annals of the reign of George the Third.
* * * * *
Flood Street, it appears, by ancient documents, was originally called
Pound Lane, probably from the pound of the manor standing on or near its
site. It was known for some years by the name of Robinson’s Lane, and
since the buildings were continued to the King’s Road, it was, by an
order from the magistrates, called Queen Street. It has recently been
altered to Flood Street, so named as a tribute to the memory of Luke
Thomas Flood, Esq., for his munificent annual gifts to the poor of this
parish, and by doing which many mistakes are now obviated, as there was
and is still Queen’s Road West adjoining Cheyne Walk.
* * * * *
Upper Manor Street was originally called Wellesley Street, in honour of
the Rev. Dr. Wellesley, the then rector of the parish. A murder was
committed in this street about forty years since, which created great
excitement throughout Chelsea. An elderly female resided in one of the
houses, and she was found dead early one morning under circumstances
which left no doubt whatever that the dreadful crime just mentioned had
been perpetrated. Two men were apprehended, who lived in the
neighbourhood, and who had been seen standing near the house at about 12
o’clock the preceding night, but beyond that fact no further evidence was
adduced. It appeared they were both at a public house that evening, and
left when it was closed, but they produced no witnesses to prove that
they went afterwards direct to their homes. The evidence in support of
the charge being insufficient, the magistrate discharged them. One of
them was a second time charged with the murder, but the result was the
same. The name of the street was then altered.
* * * * *
Robert Street, and the adjacent streets, have all been built in the
course of the present century.
* * * * *
Mr. Roll’s Nursery Grounds were situated two or three doors from that old
established house, the “Six Bells,” and joined Argyll House. His son
carried on the business for many years, and the family were greatly
respected.
* * * * *
Edward James Mascall, Esq., a gentleman who occasionally took a very
active part in parochial affairs, resided in what is now called Argyll
House for many years.
* * * * *
The entrance to Cook’s Grounds, from the King’s Road, was anciently a
back way to the stable-yard of Alston House, in Cheyne Walk. Some years
ago the stone frame-work of the gate was visible in a garden in Upper
Cheyne Row. Formerly the parishioners had only the privilege of a
footway through the glebe land from the King’s Road, as appears from the
following extract from the Vestry Minutes:—
* * * * *
“1755. Sept. 18. Whereas the road leading from the north end of Great
Cheyne Row over the glebe land to the King’s Private Road, is the proper
right of Mr. John Narbonne, of this parish, and whereas the inhabitants
of this parish do frequently pass and repass that way, not only with
corpse to the New Burying Ground, but to the Workhouse contiguous, as
well as to other places; and as the privilege is only upon sufferance, by
consent, and during the pleasure of Mr. Narbonne, therefore we
unanimously agree to pay him and his heirs, as long as this privilege
shall continue, upon the 1st day of May in every year, being from the day
the Burying Ground was consecrated, the sum of one shilling, which we
order shall be paid by the churchwardens for the time being.” There have
been no material alterations made from its recent state during my
remembrance; but Cook’s Grounds will soon be no longer recognised as it
was in 1868, as many very superior houses are now being erected, which
will be presently noticed.
* * * * *
Mr. Pamplin, another celebrated nurseryman, resided at the western corner
of Cook’s Grounds. The old dwelling-house has just been pulled down.
* * * * *
The King’s Parade, opposite Cook’s Grounds, was erected in 1810. It is
no longer known as the “Parade”—principally so called on account of the
stone-pavement, which was considered then a luxury to walk on at that
part of the road—but is now included under the general appellation of the
King’s Road.
* * * * *
Mr. Edward Wright, comedian, of the Adelphi Theatre, lived at Merton
Villa, Trafalgar Square, opposite Cook’s Grounds, for some time. He died
in France some few years ago.
* * * * *
On the site of Oakley Square there still remained a portion of Mrs.
Hutchins’s market garden. The road at this spot was very narrow, and no
pathway for passengers on that side. Here, again, there was an
obstructive bar placed across the road.
* * * * *
Mr. Faulkner mentions a singular circumstance that occurred just at this
place. He says, “About the year 1796, I was present at a stag-hunt in
Chelsea. The animal swam across the river from Battersea, and made for
Lord Cremorne’s grounds; and upon being driven from thence ran along the
water-side as far as the Church, and turning up Church Lane (street), at
last took refuge in Mrs. Hutchins’s barn, where he was taken alive.”
* * * * *
A little on the west of Oakley Square, in a spacious house, Mrs. Kelly,
the author of several novels, conducted a most respectable school. It
was subsequently taken for the reception of invalid soldiers, who came to
pass the Board at Chelsea Hospital, previous to their discharge from the
army. This house, long since pulled down, was said to have been built
about the year 1715.
* * * * *
Adjoining the preceding house, and at the corner of Upper Church Street,
was the “Rose and Crown,” a small road-side public-house, standing much
below the level of the road, and, from its appearance, had evidently been
built at an early period. At the entrance was a wooden bench, on which
many a weary traveller took rest. On the site of this house is now the
Cadogan Arms.
* * * * *
Passing Church Street, and proceeding westward, the road was extremely
narrow. At the south corner of Church Street there was an additional
house to what there is at the present time, and the old residence on the
opposite side, lately pulled down, projected several feet forward on the
road, without any pathway for foot-passengers. There is now a capital
carriage-road and a good pavement, with some commanding shops at the
northern corner.
* * * * *
Adjoining, on the north side of the King’s Road, are the extensive
premises of Messrs. Ransome and Co., the eminent saw-mill engineers, &c.
* * * * *
On the opposite side were the Nursery Grounds belonging to Mr. Shepard,
the main portion of which now forms Paultons Square, and the remainder,
formerly in the occupation of Mr. H. Larner, has recently been purchased
by Mr. Gray, the horticultural builder, in addition to his extensive
works in Danvers Street. He is making very considerable alterations,
and, when completed, it will no doubt be an ornament to this fashionably
frequented road.
* * * * *
The late Mr. Alfred Mellon, so celebrated for his concerts, and musical
entertainments, lived for a considerable time in what is known as “The
Vale,” which is situated on the opposite side to Paultons Square, where
he died some two or three years since. He was buried in the Brompton
Cemetery, and his funeral was attended by a great many of his private
friends, and by a large number of the most eminent men in the musical and
theatrical world, by all of whom he was highly respected.
* * * * *
Mr. John Varley, the celebrated water colour painter, and principal
founder of the old Society now in Pall Mall East, whose works are well
known to the world, lived at 10, Beaufort Row, now Beaufort Street, about
the year 1810. His town house was in Conduit Street, Regent Street.
During the time he resided here he made a very excellent drawing of the
Old Church, from near the Bishop of Winchester’s Palace, in Cheyne Walk,
the property of J. H. Chance, Esq., which was lent and exhibited at the
Great Exhibition of 1862. Many other beautiful sketches of Chelsea were
made by Mr. Varley from the shores, as well as from one of Mr.
Bettsworth’s boats, which was always at his service. Some of the family
have long been and are now residents in Chelsea and Brompton. Mr. John
Varley was born in 1778, and died in 1842.
* * * * *
When Mr. Varley left Chelsea, Mr. Dorrell, the artist, took the house,
and afterwards Mr. J. Stark, the well-known oil painter of woodland
scenes, occupied it. Two prettily painted pieces, although small, are
now to be seen at the South Kensington Museum. Mr. Stark was born in
1794, and died in 1859.
* * * * *
Wilson Lowry, F.R.S., M.G.S., lived near to Battersea Bridge, about the
year 1809. He was known not only for his eminence as an engraver, but
also for his extensive knowledge of anatomy, natural philosophy,
mathematics, mineralogy, and geology, added to an extraordinary talent
for metaphysical discussion, which placed him on terms of intimacy with
the first philosophers and most scientific men of his day, and in the
year 1812, unsolicited, was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society, next
to Sir Joshua Reynolds, the only artist who was honoured by such a
conferment. He died in 1824, in his 63rd year. Mr. Lowry’s only
daughter by his second wife was Mr. John Varley’s second wife.
* * * * *
Mr. John Galt, the author of “Sir Archibald Wylie,” and the “Ayrshire
Legatees,” lived in Beaufort Row about 1809.
* * * * *
Mr. Ralph Wedgwood, (of the firm of Josiah Wedgwood and Co.,) the
celebrated manufacturers of the Queen’s Ware, died at Chelsea in 1837.
* * * * *
Mr. Bentley, one of Mr. Wedgwood’s partners, superintended a branch
establishment at Chelsea, about 1770, for finishing and painting the best
pieces.
* * * * *
Mr. Paul Bedford, the popular comedian, late of the Adelphi and Haymarket
Theatres, resides in Lindsey Place. He is much respected in private
life, and as an actor few have obtained greater celebrity.
* * * * *
Returning to the King’s Road, and proceeding from Beaufort Street, we
arrive at “the Man in the Moon” tavern. There are many conjectures
respecting the origin of the sign of this house, but nothing certain has
been elucidated. As a celebrated neighbouring tavern was called the
“World’s End,” perhaps the original proprietor thought he would give his
house an equally singular sign.
* * * * *
We have already noticed the Clock House, Lord and Lady Cremorne’s Villa
(now known as Cremorne Gardens), Ashburnham House, Stanley House, St.
Mark’s College, &c.; but there are one or two others to which we will now
briefly allude. The first of these is Messrs. Christie’s Flour Mills,
established a great many years ago. The premises are situated at the
western extremity of the parish, and close to the Chelsea Railway
Station. Mr. Ormson, horticultural builder, resides at Dudmaston House,
which is opposite the entrance to St. Mark’s College.
* * * * *
The King’s Road, at the commencement of this century, was by no means a
place for general business. There were here and there, it is true,
tradesmen who succeeded very well, but, generally speaking, the line of
road was almost exclusively occupied by nurserymen and florists, and thus
it became a fashionable resort for the nobility and gentry. The road, in
most parts, was very narrow, and the different grounds were mostly
enclosed by wooden palings. There was nothing like a good pathway for
passengers, excepting at certain places. At night there were only a few
gloomy oil-lamps, and the lives and property of the inhabitants were
principally entrusted to a small number of private watchmen. When
disturbances or robberies in the streets occurred in the daytime, the
tradesmen-constables of the parish had the onerous and sometimes the
dangerous duty to quell them, and take into custody the offenders or
perpetrators. It need scarcely be added that when sent for, on such
occasions, the constables were frequently—“_Not at home_!”
* * * * *
Let us now take a glance at the present state of the King’s Road, and a
few more of the vast improvements which have been made in it. But,
before doing so, we will give some particulars descriptive of a novel
enterprise which is attracting a large share of public attention at the
present time.
* * * * *
THE CHELSEA STEAM CAPTIVE BALLOON.—This monster aerial balloon ascends
daily, weather permitting, from a part of the grounds known as the
Ashburnham estate, a little beyond Cremorne Gardens. The balloon itself
is 93 feet in diameter, and has a cubical capacity for gas of 421,161 ft.
It is capable of taking up into the air no less than 30 passengers, and
is attached to one strong rope, 2000 ft. long, which passes round a
balance wheel, and thence to a large cylinder worked by an engine of 200
horse power. These appliances are all fitted in a kind of amphitheatre,
from the centre of which the ascents take place. The supposed altitude
to which the rope allows ascent is 2000 feet, but as a rule the height is
generally less. The cost of the balloon alone is stated to be £24,000,
and the value of the gas required (pure hydrogen) £600. It is composed
of linen and India rubber, made of five thicknesses, and is the property
of a French gentleman well known for his attachment to scientific
experiments.
* * * * *
On the opposite side of the road, and adjoining St. Mark’s College, is
Mr. Veitch’s Royal Exotic Nursery. These grounds for a great many years
belonged to Mr. Knight, who possessed a most choice collection of Cape
plants, &c., and who was patronized by nearly all the nobility and gentry
in this country. Mr. Veitch has fully sustained the celebrity acquired
by his predecessor.
* * * * *
A little further eastward is Mr. W. Bull’s Nursery, and on the opposite
side is the Ashburnham Park Nursery, belonging to Mr. J. W. Wimsett.
Both of them are distinguished cultivators of rare and valuable plants.
* * * * *
Near to Cremorne Gardens, on the opposite side of the road, is the
extensive Show Establishment belonging to John Weeks and Co.,
Horticultural Builders and Hot-Water Apparatus Manufacturers, Engineers,
and Iron Founders. The Horticultural Building and Engineering department
is carried on near to Messrs. Downing’s Floor Cloth Manufactory, in the
King’s Road.
* * * * *
Proceeding on, eastward, we arrive once more at Cook’s Grounds, which
was, as previously stated, a private way originally to the stabling of
Sir Joseph Alston’s House, in Cheyne Walk. The old house, for so many
years occupied by Mr. Pamplin, the nurseryman, on the western entrance in
the King’s Road, has recently been pulled down, and two commanding shops
erected on the site, by Mr. Leete, the builder, of Little Cadogan Place.
They contain thirteen rooms each, built with white bricks and
compo-dressings, with enrichments and cornices. On the right-hand side
of Cook’s Grounds, from the King’s Road, about 30 superior-looking
private dwelling houses are now being built, each of which will contain
eight rooms. These are also built with white bricks, and will have what
is termed “cant” windows. The road opposite them is intended to be 50
ft. wide, and there will be a good pavement. When this great improvement
is finally completed, and carried forward to Cheyne Walk, which no doubt
is the intention, this new street will then scarcely be surpassed by
Oakley Street. In Trafalgar Square, likewise, there are a number of very
superior dwelling-houses now in course of erection, and, when the entire
square is finished, there will be an excellent road from Cheyne Walk to
the South Kensington Museum.
THE VESTRY HALL.
This building is situated on the south side of the King’s Road, and is
nearly opposite Robert Street. The foundation stone was laid on the 12th
of December, 1859. The arrangements for the accommodation of the public
were under the superintendence of W. W. Pocock, Esq., the architect, and
notwithstanding it was a very inclement day, there were at least a
thousand persons present.
* * * * *
In a bottle were deposited a suitable inscription on vellum, a list of
the parish officers for the year, one copy of each of the three Annual
Reports of the Vestry, a copy of the “Metropolis Local Management Act,”
with its Amendments, and of the “Nuisances Removal Act,” and one of each
of the Coins of the present Reign. The band of the Royal Military Asylum
attended, and played several popular airs, which added greatly to enliven
the proceedings.
* * * * *
The following particulars are extracted from the “MORNING ADVERTISER,”
Tuesday, December 13th, 1859, and which were inserted in the Fourth
Annual Report of the Vestry, 1860.
* * * * *
The foundation stone was laid by Viscount Chelsea in due form, in the
presence of Robert Hanbury, Esq., and the Hon. G. Byng, the Members for
Middlesex, W. Tite, Esq., M.P., the Rev. C. Kingsley, the Rector of the
Parish, the Members of the Vestry, and a large number of the influential
inhabitants of the parish.
* * * * *
The building is in the Italian style, with stone facings. The length is
about 140 ft., and between 60 and 70 feet in breadth. The great hall is
64ft. in length, and 40 ft. wide, and accommodates upwards of 1000
persons. The board room is about 45 ft. by 30.
* * * * *
The time appointed for the ceremonial was two o’clock in the afternoon,
and at half-past one o’clock the gentlemen invited to take part in the
day’s proceedings assembled in the Vestry-Room of St. Luke’s Church, and
proceeded from thence to the site of the proposed building, headed by the
juvenile band of the Royal Military Asylum, playing national and other
appropriate airs. The procession, on arriving at the spot, was received
with loud cheers by a large number of the inhabitants who were admitted
within the grounds.
* * * * *