Tunnel, resided for a considerable period in the centre house. His
public works will immortalize his name to the latest posterity, as being
one of the most eminent engineers of the present century.
* * * * *
John Martin, R.A., K.L., so well known for those grandly-conceived and
sublime compositions, “Joshua commanding the Sun to stand Still,” “The
Fall of Nineveh,” “The Last Judgment,” &c., also resided in Lindsey Row
for some years. The late Prince Consort was a frequent visitor to his
Studio, and it is a pleasing fact to record that Mr. Martin kindly
permitted the neighbouring inhabitants, and others, to have access
occasionally to it, accompanied by an attendant, during his absence from
home. He died, as will be remembered, not many years since.
* * * * *
Timothy Bramah, Esq., a distinguished engineer, likewise occupied a house
in Lindsey Row, for some years. The family was always greatly respected,
and a member of it still resides in a house near the one where Mr. Bramah
resided. The “Bramah Lock” at once denotes the celebrity of the firm.
* * * * *
The Rev. James Hutchins, M.A., who succeeded his father, the Rev. John
Hutchins, as Evening Lecturer at the Old Church, resided for some years
at a house at the western corner of Milman’s Row, fronting the river.
Mr. Hutchins, the son, was also Evening Lecturer at the new St. Luke’s
Church for several years. The Lecturer was remunerated by voluntary
contributions, chiefly, collected from the inhabitants throughout the
parish, the average amount altogether being about £60 per annum.
* * * * *
Milman’s Row, which nearly adjoins Lindsey Row, and which might now with
great propriety be called Milman Street, leads to the King’s Road. It
derives its name from Sir William Milman, who died in 1713, the estate
having been for some years in his possession. The ancient
parsonage-house and grounds, which were exchanged by the Rector in 1566,
with the Marquis of Winchester, for the present Rectory, stood upon this
spot. Strewan House, which is on the western side of Milman’s Row, has
been occupied at different periods by many highly-respectable families.
It is now in the possession of George Berry, Esq.
* * * * *
The foundry, which belonged to a person of the name of Janeway, was
situated near World’s End Passage. It was very extensive, and here the
old bells of the Church were re-cast in 1759. Riley Street, which stands
on part of the foundry ground, was built principally in 1790.
* * * * *
Patrick Gibson, aged 111 years, lived in a house near the old World’s End
Tavern. For many years this remarkable man was a purser in the navy, in
the reign of George III., and on all occasions he was invariably found in
the thick of the battle, fighting with the most determined bravery. He
assisted in conveying General Wolfe off the field, and served under Lord
Nelson at the Battle of Trafalgar. William IV., when Duke of Clarence,
visited him at Chelsea, and took great interest in his affairs. He
resided in the parish 20 years, and died in 1832, at the remarkable age
of 111 years, which was proved to be correct from official dates and by
particular events. An exceedingly striking portrait of Patrick Gibson,
by McNaughten, adorns the walls of Greenwich Hospital.
* * * * *
The World’s-End Tavern was a noted house of entertainment in the reign of
Charles II.; the tea-gardens and grounds were extensive, and elegantly
fitted up for the reception of company. The origin of the sign of the
house is uncertain. It was probably so named on account of its then
considered distance from London, and the bad and dangerous state of the
roads or pathways to it. Most of the visitors came in pleasure boats
along the Thames. This ancient tavern is particularly mentioned in
Congreve’s comedy of “Love for Love,” in a dialogue between Mrs.
Foresight and Mrs. Frail, in which the former accuses the latter of
having been seen at the “World’s End.”
_Mrs. Foresight_.—I suppose you would not go alone to the World’s
End?
_Mrs. Frail_.—The World’s End! what, do you mean to banter me?
_Mrs. Foresight_.—Poor innocent! you don’t know that there is a place
called the World’s End. I declare you can keep your
countenance—surely you’ll make an admirable player.
_Mrs. Frail_.—I declare you have a great deal of impudence, and, in
my mind, too much for the stage..
_Mrs. Foresight_.—Very well, that will appear who has most. You
never were at the Word’s End?
_Mrs. Frail_.—No.
_Mrs. Foresight_.—You deny it positively to my face?
_Mrs. Frail_.—Your face, what’s your face?
_Mrs. Foresight_.—No matter for that, it is as good a face as yours.
_Mrs. Frail_.—Not by a dozen years wearing. But I do deny it,
positively, to your face, then.
_Mrs. Foresight_.—I’ll allow you now to find fault with my face; for
I declare your impudence has put me out of countenance. But look you
here now; where did you lose this gold bodkin? Oh, sister! oh,
sister!
_Mrs. Frail_.—My bodkin!
_Mrs. Foresight_.—Nay, it is yours—look at it.
_Mrs. Frail_.—Well, if you go to that, where did you find this
bodkin? Oh, sister! sister! sister every way!
_Mrs. Foresight_.—Oh! bother on’t that I could not discover her
without betraying myself. (_Aside_.)
Joseph Mallard W. Turner, Esq., R.A., resided for some time in a small
house directly facing the Thames, in the road leading to Cremorne, where
he died in 1851. No doubt he selected this spot on account of the
attractive scenery on the river, and the fine view of some parts of
Surrey, as also to enjoy for a time the benefits arising from a more
secluded life. At the age of thirty years, Mr. Turner was recognised as
the first landscape painter of the day. For a period of sixty years he
contributed to every exhibition of the Royal Academy, sending in all 259
pictures. For many years he refused to part with some of the choicest
specimens of his art, and after his death it was found that he had left
those to the English nation, together with a great number of drawings and
engravings. Mr. Turner, while residing here, lived in almost entire
seclusion. He would not see any person, excepting a few very intimate
friends, and, in fact, was extremely anxious not to be recognized. This
inclination, at the close of his life, was very natural. The world is
indebted to him for his productions, and Chelsea is proud to add his name
to its list of distinguished residents.
* * * * *
The roadway in front of the house occupied by Mr. Turner, and along the
front of that part of the river, has been considerably widened, and now
presents a well-formed embankment. A handsome terrace has been erected,
besides a number of houses on the adjoining ground.
CREMORNE HOUSE.
This villa was first formed by Theophilus, Earl of Huntingdon, who died
in 1746. It afterwards belonged, successively, to Richard, Viscount
Powerscourt; to the Countess Dowager of Exeter, relict of Brownlow, the
eighth Earl; and to Sir Richard Lyttleton, who married the Dowager
Duchess of Bridgewater, and died in 1770.
* * * * *
After the death of the Duchess, in 1777, Thomas Dawson, Viscount
Cremorne, at that time Baron Dartrey, purchased the villa in 1778. He
considerably enlarged and embellished the premises, under the skill of
the eminent Mr. James Wyatt. His lordship died in Stanhope Street,
Mayfair, in 1813, in his 89th year, greatly respected, and bequeathed the
estate to his relict, the late Viscountess. It is stated, in an account
published shortly after Lord Cremorne’s death, that “his generosity was
unbounded, and his heart, in the most comprehensive sense, charitable.
But his most excellent character is, that he was a Christian in mind and
practice.”
* * * * *
The Dowager Viscountess Cremorne, born in Philadelphia in 1740, died at
her house in Stanhope Street in 1825, in the 86th year of her age. Her
ladyship resided at Chelsea a great portion of the year, and kept a large
establishment. She was one of the most kind-hearted residents in the
parish. For years it was her custom to entertain annually the children
of the parochial and other schools, and she patronized the tradesmen of
Chelsea as far as it was practicable, giving special orders to that
effect to her household. Queen Charlotte occasionally visited her in the
summer months, when the children again attended, and received tokens of
her benevolent regard for them. She was buried by the side of her
husband in the family vault at Stoke. The carriages of the Royal Family
followed in the funeral procession for some distance, and most of the
tradesmen closed their shops. She bequeathed the villa to her first
cousin and executor, Granville Penn, Esq., second surviving son of Thomas
Penn, and brother of John Penn, Esqrs., of Stoke Park, Bucks, Hereditary
Governors and Proprietaries of the Province of Pennsylvania. Granville
Penn, Esq., resided in it for a few years. It would occupy too much
space to give a sketch even of the history of this distinguished family.
Lord and Lady Cremorne possessed a very fine and extensive collection of
paintings, which were sold by auction, on the premises, in 1827. Amongst
them was a copy of Correggio’s picture of the Madonna and Child, and St.
Jerome at Parma, by Copley, full size, and accounted the best copy of
that celebrated picture. The late Lord Lyndhurst purchased it. The
grounds, &c., are now known as Cremorne Gardens, but this once pretty
villa can scarcely now be recognised as the favourite residence of Lord
and Lady Cremorne.
* * * * *
Ashburnham House is situated to the west of the late Lord Cremorne’s
premises. Dr. Benjamin Hoadley built the house, in 1747, for his own
residence, but it has since been greatly altered by different occupiers.
He was the eldest son of the Bishop of Winchester, and was a Fellow of
the Royal Society when very young. In the learned world he was known as
a philosopher. Dr. Hoadley was also an eminent physician. At his death
Hoadley House was purchased by Sir Richard Glynn, who sold it to the Earl
of Ashburnham, and thence it obtained the name of Ashburnham House. It
was next in possession of that learned physician, Dr. Cadogan, who
resided in it for a few years, and planted in the garden a large quantity
of medicinal herbs. Lady Mary Coke resided here for about ten years, and
sold it to Mr. Brown, who occupied a house near to it, called Ashburnham
Cottage. Mr. Stevens at length possessed the house, and resided in it
for many years. Afterwards it was the residence of the Hon. Leicester
Stanhope, subsequently Earl of Harrington.
* * * * *
On the banks of the river, in front of Ashburnham House, was a piece of
land, called the Lots. The Lammas rights of the parishioners, with
respect to this land, are now extinct. Those who wish to know the
particulars, will find them fully recorded in the Annual Vestry Reports,
which may be obtained at the Vestry Hall, and which will render many
parochial details in this work quite unnecessary.
* * * * *
On the south side of the King’s Road, and near to the boundary line which
divides the parishes of Chelsea and Fulham, is Dudmarton House, which was
for a considerable period the residence of Samuel Gower Poole, Esq., who
erected a chapel on the premises, where he occasionally preached, and
amongst others the Rev. Dr. Jay, of Bath, the Rev. John and Charles
Hyatt, the Rev. Dr. Collyer, &c. The Rev. Dr. Raffles, it is stated,
preached his first sermon there when he was quite a youth. Mr. Poole
also established a school for the education of poor boys, many of whom
were clothed through his exertions.
Stanley House, St. Mark’s College.
Near to what is now the Chelsea Railway Station, on the north of the
King’s Road, is Stanley House. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth this was
part of the estate of Sir Arthur Gorges, who was knighted in 1597, and
died in 1625, and who built a house on this site for his own residence.
Rowland White, writing to Sir Robert Sidney, Nov. 15, 1599, says, “As the
Queen passed by the faire new building, Sir Arthur Gorges presented her
with a faire jewell.” The family of Gorges at this period possessed very
considerable property in Chelsea, which they afterwards gradually
disposed of to the Cheyne family and others.
* * * * *
Sir Arthur Gorges was the intimate friend of Spenser, who lamented the
death of the first Lady Gorges, daughter of Viscount Bindon, and who died
in 1590, in a beautiful elegy, entitled Daphnaida; he has recorded
likewise the conjugal affection and the talents of her husband, under the
name of Alcyon, in the following elegant lines:—
“And there is sad Alcyon, bent to mourne
Though fit to frame an everlasting dittie;
Whose gentle spright for Daphne’s death doth tourne
Sweet lays of love to endlesse plaints of pittie.
Ah! pensive boy, pursue that brave conceipt
In thy sweet eglantine merriflure;
Lift up thy notes unto their wonted height,
That may my muse and mates to mirth allure.”
Sir Arthur married, secondly, Lady Elizabeth, daughter of Henry, Earl of
Lincoln, by which marriage he became possessed of Sir Thomas More’s
house, which, in 1619, he conveyed to Lionel, Lord Cranfield. He died in
1625, leaving by his second wife six children. Lady Elizabeth Gorges,
his widow, in 1637, sold this estate to her daughter, Lady Elizabeth
Stanley, widow of Sir Robert Stanley, and confirmed the same by her will
in 1643, in which year she died. The family of Stanley appear to have
held possession of this estate, and resided here till the latter end of
the seventeenth century, when this branch of it became extinct, in the
male line, by the death of William Stanley, Esq. in 1691. The house was
rebuilt about this period; and, being left in an unfinished state, was
for several years unoccupied. It belonged, in 1724, to Henry Arundel,
Esq. Admiral Sir Charles Wager died here in 1743. It is said that this
gallant officer was educated a Quaker, and that though he left that
society, he was always particularly kind to its members.
* * * * *
After passing through several hands, Stanley House became the property of
Miss Southwell, afterwards the lady of Sir James Eyre, Lord Chief Justice
of the Common Pleas, who sold it in 1777 to the Countess of Strathmore,
one of the most intelligent female botanists of the age. Her ladyship
had begun to build extensive hothouses and conservatories, brought
exotics from the Cape, and was continually raising an increase to her
collections, when, by an unfortunate marriage, the cruel spoiler came,
and threw them like loathsome weeds away. The Countess married A. R.
Bowes, Esq., whose barbarities to her exceeded every thing recorded in
the annals of crime, and drew upon him the execrations of the whole
country. {57} After suffering innumerable indignities from her husband,
the Countess exhibited articles of the peace against him in the Court of
King’s Bench, and obtained a separation, under heavy securities. She
passed the remainder of her days in much affliction, both in body and
mind, and departed this life on the 20th April, 1800. Bowes died
miserably in a jail.
* * * * *
Stanley House was purchased of the Countess of Strathmore, by Mr. Lochee,
who kept the Military Academy at Little Chelsea, and was for some time in
the occupation of Richard Warren, M.D. This eminent physician was the
son of the Rev. Richard Warren, Archdeacon of Suffolk. He died in 1797,
and was buried in the chancel of Kensington Church, where a monument,
with a Latin inscription, was erected to his memory.
About the year 1815, Stanley House was purchased by William Hamilton,
Esq., who resided in it for some time, and made great additions to the
original structure, by building a picture gallery on the east side. He
had a good collection of paintings, a capital portrait of his father, the
Rev. Dr. Hamilton, Vicar of St. Martin’s in the Fields, and many fine
casts of the Elgin marbles. In 1822, Mr. Hamilton was appointed Envoy to
the Court of Naples, and during his absence from Chelsea, he let the
house to some distinguished families, amongst them may be mentioned the
Marquis of Queensbury. Mr. Hamilton afterwards sold the estate to the
National Society.
ST. MARK’S COLLEGE.
Stanley House, as it was formerly called, became the residence of the
Principal of St. Mark’s College, which was established by the National
Society, in the year 1841, as a Training Institution for Schoolmasters,
in connexion with the Church of England. To the Rev. Derwent Coleridge,
M.A., the first Principal of the College, must be attributed the eminent
position it has attained among the educational institutions of the
country. He was the Principal of the College for a period of
twenty-three years, and greatly beloved by the Students, popular among
his Colleagues and Assistants, and enjoyed the respect and confidence of
the Council, who had the pleasant task of co-operating with him. In
January, 1864, he was presented by the late Bishop of London to the
Rectory of Hanwell, which occasioned his resignation.
* * * * *
Many candidates of great eminence were desirous to become the Rev. Mr.
Coleridge’s successor, and from among them the Rev. John G. Cromwell,
M.A., Hon. Canon of Durham, and formerly Scholar of Brasenose College,
Oxford, was selected, his testimonials being of the very highest order,
and his successful administration of the Training College at Durham,
during 12 years, appeared to the Council a sufficient guarantee for his
success at St. Mark’s. This expectation has now been happily fully
realized.
The Vice-Principal is the Rev. C. F. Eastburn, M.A., Fellow of St. John’s
College, Cambridge, and the Rev. C. S. Dawe, B.A., is the Normal Master
in the College, and Head Master of the School, and, from the testimony of
those who are well-qualified to form an impartial opinion, they most
efficiently discharge their respective arduous duties, and this just
acknowledgment equally applies to the Tutors, Mr. W. Lawson, F.R.G.S.,
and Mr. O. Breden.
* * * * *
On the west side of the house the National Society added a quadrangle,
built in the Italian style, and in the grounds, near the chapel, an
octagon building as a Practising School, for teaching children who reside
in the locality. The grounds of the College consist of eleven acres of
garden and grass land.
* * * * *
The Upper School gives a superior education to 160 boys, who are
instructed in all the usual branches of an English education, and also in
Latin and French.
* * * * *
The Middle School gives a similar education, with the exception of Latin
and French, to 180 boys.
* * * * *
The Lower School is intended for the sons of the humbler classes, and
gives sound instruction in elementary subjects to 200 boys.
* * * * *
There is accommodation in the College for 100 Students, who are being
trained here for Schoolmasters.
* * * * *
The Chapel stands close to the Fulham Road, and is open to the public
twice every day, at 9 a.m. and 9 p.m. On Sundays the Services begin at
11 a.m. and 4 p.m. The seats are free, and the expenses are defrayed by
voluntary contributions. There is no endowment of any kind. The
exterior of the building is unpretending. The interior has a distinctive
character given to it by the windows of stained glass, which produce an
impression of warmth and beauty. There is an excellent organ and a full
choir, composed of the Students and a certain number of boys from the
schools. The Services are all choral, and on Sundays are usually well
attended. On the anniversary of the College foundation, St. Mark’s Day,
April 25, a sermon is preached and a collection made on behalf of the
Chapel Funds, and the surrounding gentry and clergy, together with the
former Students, are invited to a banquet. At the last Anniversary
Festival the sermon was preached by the Dean of St. Paul’s, the text
being selected from Luke iv. 16. In the evening, in the Lecture Hall of
the College, selections from an Oratorio and other pieces were admirably
rendered by the Students, under the direction of the Rev. T. Helmore,
precentor, and John Hullah, Esq., to a crowded and most fashionable
audience, and many of the old Students of the College. We must also
mention E. C. May, Esq., to whom much of the proficiency of the choir may
be justly attributed.
* * * * *
We will pass by Mr. Veitch’s Royal Exotic Nursery, and the extensive Show
Establishment belonging to Messrs. Weeks & Co., both of which will
probably be noticed in a subsequent part of this work, when a more
general notice will be taken of the entire King’s Road, and merely
observe that a great number of villas, and many superior dwelling houses,
have been erected within the last few years in this immediate locality.
As examples of such instances it is only necessary to mention the
splendid house built by John Weeks, Esq., in Edith Grove, and those in
Gunter Grove, Maude Grove, &c., in addition to which many more well-built
houses are now being erected in the neighbourhood.
WEST BROMPTON CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH.
This structure is worthy of special notice. It stands on a valuable
freehold site, and was erected in 1866, at a cost of between £5000 and
£6000, exclusive of the site. It has sittings for 1100, and owes its
existence to the exertions of the present pastor, the Rev. C. Winter, who
had previously preached for some time in a small chapel in Gunter Grove.
The style adopted is Gothic, of the geometric decorative period. The
building is faced with Kentish ragstone, and all the dressings are of
Boxhill buttstone. The design consists of three central door-ways, with
a large five-light traceried window over, and traceried side light;
separate entrances to the staircases with panelled parapets and side
roofs over; the sides and chancel end of the building are of brick; the
windows in two tiers with stone dressings; the upper tier consists of
circular traceried windows, and the whole design is such as to produce a
very pleasing effect, which will be much increased when the tower and
spire are carried up as intended. The building is entered in front by
the doors before mentioned, and a spacious vestibule leads through inner
lobbies to the body of the church, which occupies an area of 70 ft. by 50
ft., but including chancel and entrance lobbies its length is 106 ft.
The building is surrounded on three sides with spacious galleries,
supported by iron columns, handsomely decorated, running up to and
supporting the roof. The ceiling is divided into bays by wood spandril
arches springing from column to column, and from the columns to the
walls. The chancel arch is a very effective piece of coloured brickwork,
and the chancel recess is arranged with its windows and angular plan so
as to add much to the general effect, which is considerably increased by
a very handsome memorial window, the gift of the family of Mr. Pitts, one
of the deacons of the church. The building is lighted by star-lights of
an improved design suspended from the roof. The pulpit, which is
spacious and handsome, is of Caen stone and stands on a platform, around
which the seats are arranged concentrically, a great improvement on the
ordinary rectangular pewing. The larger room under the chancel is
devoted to a variety of useful purposes, such as Infant School, Sunday
Schools, Day School, &c. The chapel in Gunter Grove has been converted
into a Public Hall, and ultimately no doubt will prove of general use to
the neighbourhood. The Sunday Schools, one of which is held at the Hall,
number about 300 children.
LITTLE CHELSEA, OR WEST BROMPTON.