Peruvian: it was one of the fine days of London, but the sun
was so obscured by the fog, that it had taken the form of a
great globe of fire. “What do you think of the sun to-day?”
said I to my companion. “I thought,” replied the adorer
of the true sun, “that the end of the world was come! Was
it not a singular caprice of fortune, that where there is
the least light, the great Newton should have been born to
analyze it?” It appears to me like the other singularity,
that Alfieri, who analyzed liberty so well, should have been
born in Italy, where they have less of it, perhaps, than
any where else. After all, what of it? The English, by force
of industry, have contrived to manufacture for themselves
even a sun. Is it not indeed a sun――that gas, which, running
under ground through all the island, illuminates the whole
in a _fiat lux_? It is a sun, without twilight, and without
sitting; that rises and disappears like a flash of lightning,
and that too just when we want it. The gas illumination of
London is so beautiful, that M. Sismondi had good reason
to say, that, in London, in order to see, you must wait
till night. The place of St. Antonio, at Cadiz, on a
stormy summer’s evening――the noisy Strado Toledo of Naples,
silvered by the moon――the Parisian Tivoli, blazing with
fire-works;――none of them can sustain a comparison with
the Regent-street of London, lighted by gas. Nor is this
artificial sun an exclusive advantage of the capital; it
shines every where with the impartiality of the great planet,
illuminating alike the palace and the hovel. Whoever travels
in England by night, in the country around Leeds, Nottingham,
Derby or Manchester, imagines he sees, on every side, the
enchanting palaces of the fairies, shining in the light of
a thousand torches; but they are, in reality, no other than
very large and very lofty manufactories of cotton, woollen,
or linen.
‘But the English have another remedy for the scarcity of sun.
They follow the example of poets and philosophers, who, when
they are deficient in riches, take to praising poverty;――not
being able to praise the sun, they sing the praises of the
fireside, and the delights of winter. Ossian, (or rather
Macpherson, the author of Ossian,) instead of the sun,
apostrophises the moon. He takes pleasure in describing, as
if they were delightful, the whistling of the winds, and the
roaring of the torrents. He compares the locks of a youthful
beauty to mist gilded by the sun. Instead of depicting
a valley enamelled with flowers, he spurns so soft and
effeminate an image, to paint the aspect of a frozen lake,
and the shaking thistle on its banks. Cowper, in his poem
of The Task, seems completely to enjoy himself in describing
a winter’s evening, when the rain rattles down, the wind
whistles, and the wagoner growls and grumbles on his way;
whilst in doors, the fire burns, the newspaper arrives, the
exhilarating tea glows on the table, and the family are all
collected round the hearth.
‘Some poet, whose name I forget, (I think it is Byron,) even
gives to darkness the epithet “lovely.” Thomson, the bard of
the seasons, was a better poet than usual, when he sung of
winter. He calls the horrors of winter “congenial horrors;”
and after describing the mountains of snow, that, with the
roar of thunder, dart from precipice to precipice, to the
bottom of the Grison valleys, destroying and burying in
the depth of night, shepherds and their flocks, huts and
villages, single travellers and whole troops of marching
soldiers, he imagines himself, with epicurean voluptuousness,
in a solitary and well sheltered country-house, before a
blazing fire, and lighted by splendid chandeliers, rending
at his ease the finest works of the ancients.
‘Thus all the poets have conspired to make their countrymen
in love with their cloudy heavens, and induce them to
believe themselves fortunate that they are born in a
delightful climate. And what matter is it that it is not
true? Are not the tricks and illusions of the imagination
as substantial as actual reality? Montesquieu said, “If the
English are not free, at least they believe they are, which
is much the same.” So we may say, if the English have not a
fine climate, they believe they have, and that is as good.
I was once praising to a young English lady, the pure, lofty,
mother-of-pearl heavens of Madrid, of Naples, of Athens, of
Smyrna. She replied, “I should be tired to death by such a
perpetual sunshine; the variety and phantasmagoria of our
cloud must surely be much more beautiful.”’――_Observations
of an Italian Exile._
38 – There were several severe thunder-storms while we were
in the neighborhood of New-York, very different in their
appearance from those which occur in Britain, but not
attended with more accidents. One of them, in the middle
of June, was, however, very tremendous; it occurred in the
night, and the flashes of vivid lightning followed each
other with so great rapidity, that the sky was altogether
illuminated for a long period, and until a violent storm
of wind, accompanied with a deluge of rain, came on. The
roaring of the thunder never ceased during the continuance
of the storm. Several casualties occurred in New York; some
trees were torn up by the roots, the shipping was damaged,
one vessel upset, and the crew drowned. There is more
appearance of devastation occasioned by thunder-storms in
the forests and woods of this country than any where else.
Large portions of the forest are sometimes seen almost torn
to pieces.
Subsequently to this period, and when I was travelling in
the southern states, I was again and again witness to very
terrifying and magnificent thunder-storms, where I have seen
the whole atmosphere illuminated by the never ceasing balls
of fire bursting from cloud to cloud, and the appearance
every moment of forked flashes of lightning. Few nights,
during the summer and beginning of autumn, in this country,
occur, in which lightning is not visible in some part of the
horizon.――_Stuart’s America._
39 – The following account of the climate in the neighborhood of
Charleston, South Carolina, is extracted from a letter of
the intelligent correspondent of the Portland Advertiser,
dated March 29, 1833.
‘Vegetation is quite advanced, and rapidly advancing. The
air this day was not so warm as it has been; but we had
this morning copious showers with loud thunder and vivid
lightning. The gardens in the vicinity of Charleston are
now beautiful beyond description. All vegetation is in that
lively hue, which charms the eye and delights the feelings.
The trees that border the wayside are rapidly putting on
their green covering. The open fields are verdant with the
growing grass. Corn is up and advanced. The vegetables in
the gardens are as forward as they will be in ours the first
of July. The market is well stocked with the luxuries of an
early summer. A southern spring is spring indeed. There are
music and life in every thing. If they could have here our
captivating and musing scenery, our variety of hill and dale,
it would be at this season another paradise on earth.
‘Charleston is considered healthy by the inhabitants.
They boast of their exemption from diseases, and say their
bill of mortality is not so fatal as that of New York and
Philadelphia. The city itself may be thus healthy when the
yellow fever does not prevail, but it is as much as one’s
life is worth to venture into the lowlands in the vicinity,
in the country round. No resident of Charleston, even those
born Carolinians, or the best acclimated, dare run the risk.
For a citizen to sleep in the country in the summer months,
is considered almost certain death, for the country fever,
as it is termed, immediately seizes him. The country,
this side of the middle region――a rolling country of South
Carolina for about one hundred miles from the seacoast――is
swampy, or a pine barren. There is in the swamps a
_mal-aria_, very fatal to health, the effects of which no
white man is willing to run the risk of encountering. Hence
the planters in the lowlands, particularly such as live on
the rice plantations, remove in the sickly months to the
seacoast, or go back into the country, to Buncumbe county
in North Carolina, near the Saluda Gap, or to the Virginia
Springs, or to the seacoast, or to the northern states. The
slaves on the rice plantations are said to be healthy and
happy, and to suffer no affliction from the burning sun of
August, or the noxious effluvia from the rice grounds.
‘A white overseer is usually left in care of the plantation
and the negroes, who, though born in the country, often,
and commonly, has a fever every year. I am told that many
of them die at middle age, and that few seldom obtain an
old age. If such be the fact, it would seem that negroes
are necessary to cultivate the rice grounds, though it is
with difficulty that I can come to the conclusion, that the
white man, well acclimated, is not as well fitted by nature
to cultivate the land he lives on as the negro. But the
universal opinion is, that it is exceedingly hazardous for a
planter to continue with his family on his estate, and hence,
no matter what the expense, the estates are deserted from
June to the first frost in autumn, and the planter dare not
visit his property, nor sleep in his house in that time,
though he may be on the seacoast but a few miles off, or in
a settlement on a pine barren, which is considered healthy.
The swampy rice grounds no doubt are sickly. The effluvia
from so much putrid water must be noxious. The pallor and
ghastliness of many of the overseers bear testimony to the
truth of the general assertion. And it is probable, yea,
certain, that the habits, the manners, the long practice of
the negroes, have better fitted them to undergo the danger
than the white man is or can be, with his training. Hence,
one of the great arguments in favor of slavery here, is, “we
cannot do without the negroes.”’
40 – The first notice of gold from North Carolina, on the record
of the United States’ Mint, occurs in the year 1814, when
it was received to the amount of eleven thousand dollars.
In 1825 the amount received was seventeen thousand dollars;
in 1826, twenty thousand, in 1828, nearly forty-six thousand,
and in 1829, one hundred and twenty-eight thousand dollars.
In the year 1830, gold to the value of four hundred and
sixty-six thousand dollars was coined at the mint, received
from the gold region of the southern states. Of this amount,
two hundred and twelve thousand dollars were received from
Georgia, a state which had not furnished even a specimen
in any previous year. In the year 1831, the southern gold
region furnished the mint with gold to the value of more
than half a million; of this, two hundred and ninety-four
thousand dollars were received from North Carolina, and one
hundred and seventy-six thousand from Georgia. But a part of
the gold obtained at these mines is received at the United
States’ Mint; by far the larger part is sent to Europe,
particularly to Paris. It is stated that the whole number of
men employed in the mines of the southern states, is twenty
thousand.
41 – The coal is conveyed to Mauch Chunk village, in wagons
running upon the railway. Fourteen of them, containing
each one ton and a half of coal, are connected by iron
bars, admitting of a slight degree of motion between two
contiguous wagons; a single man rides on one of the wagons,
and, by a very simple contrivance, regulates their movement:
a perpendicular lever causes a piece of wood to press
against the circumference of each wheel on the same side
of the car, acting both ways from the central point between
them, so that, by increasing the pressure, the friction
retards or stops the motion, and as all the levers are
connected by a rope, they are made to act in concert. The
traveller is much interested in seeing the successive groups
of wagons moving rapidly in procession and without apparent
cause; they are heard, at a considerable distance, as they
come thundering along with their dark burdens, and give an
impression of irresistible energy: at a suitable distance
follows another train, and thus three hundred tons a day,
and some days three hundred and forty tons, are regularly
discharged into the boats as already described. At first,
they descended at the rate of fifteen or twenty miles an
hour, but they were obliged to reduce the speed, as it
injured the machines, and, by agitating and wearing the
coal, involved the driver in a cloud of black dust. The
empty wagons are drawn back by mules; fourteen wagons to
eight mules; twenty-eight mules draw up forty-two coal and
seven mule wagons, and the arrangement is so made, that the
ascending parties shall arrive in due season at the proper
places for turning out. The same is true of the pleasure
cars, which are allowed to use the rail-way; only they must
not interfere with its proper business, and should they do
it, it would be at their peril, as they might be crushed by
the momentum of the descending wagons. When they happen to
be caught out of their proper place, the drivers make all
possible haste to remove them out of the rail-way track; but
they carefully avoid these meetings, and they rarely happen,
unless the cars go out of their proper time.
The mules ride down the rail-way; they are furnished with
provender placed in proper mangers, four of them being
inclosed in one pen mounted on wheels; and seven of these
cars are connected into one group, so that twenty-eight
mules constitute the party, which, with their heads all
directed down the mountain, and apparently surveying its
fine landscapes, are seen moving rapidly down the inclined
plane with a ludicrous gravity, which, when observed for the
first time, proves too much for the severest muscles.
They readily perform their duty of drawing up the empty cars,
but having once experienced the comfort of riding down, they
appear to regard it as a right, and neither mild nor severe
measures, not even the sharpest whipping, can ever induce
them to descend in any other way.
The return of the traveller, in the pleasure cars, is
so rapid that it is not easy entirely to suppress the
apprehension of danger; we perform the eight miles from
the summit in thirty-three minutes; should an axle-tree
break――an accident which sometimes happens with the coal
wagons――it would be impossible that the passengers should
escape unhurt, especially in the turnings of the road, and
in places where trees, rocks and precipices allow no safe
place of landing. All danger would however be avoided by
checking the motion, so that it should not exceed eight or
ten miles an hour, and this is easily done in the same way
as that practised in the coal wagons. Happily, no accident
has yet occurred. It would be prudent, at least, to require
the manager to check the motion of the car at the steepest
places; but these are the very situations where he chooses
to make a display of cracking his whip and cheering his
wheels, instead of his horses, and the increased impulse,
given by gravity, as he relaxes the pressure of the
lever, when the car springs forward like spirited horses
at the word of their master makes the illusion almost
complete.――_Silliman’s Journal._
42 – _Cougar Hunt._ The hunters made their appearance, one fine
morning, at the door of the cabin, just as the sun was
emerging from beneath the horizon. They were five in number,
and fully equipped for the chase, being mounted on horses,
which in some parts of Europe might appear sorry nags, but
which in strength, speed and bottom, are better fitted for
pursuing a cougar, or a bear, through woods and morasses
than any in that country. A pack of large ugly curs were
already engaged in making acquaintance with those of the
squatter. He and myself mounted his two best horses, whilst
his sons were bestriding others of inferior quality.
Few words were uttered by the party until we had reached
the edge of the swamp, where it was agreed that all should
disperse and seek for the fresh track of the painter, it
being previously settled that the discoverer should blow
his horn, and remain on the spot until the rest should join
him. In less than an hour, the sound of the horn was clearly
heard, and, sticking close to the squatter, off we went
through the thick woods, guided only by the now and then
repeated call of the distant huntsman. We soon reached the
spot, and in a short time the rest of the party came up. The
best dog was sent forward to track the cougar, and in a few
moments the whole pack were observed diligently trailing,
and bearing in their course for the interior of the swamp.
The rifles were immediately put in trim, and the party
followed the dogs, at separate distances, but in sight of
each other, determined to shoot at no other game than the
panther.
The dogs soon began to mouth, and suddenly quickened
their pace. My companion concluded that the beast was on
the ground, and putting our horses to a gentle gallop, we
followed the curs, guided by their voices. The noise of the
dogs increased, when all of a sudden their mode of barking
became altered, and the squatter, urging me to push on, told
me that the beast was _treed_, by which he meant that it
had got upon some low branch of a large tree to rest for
a few moments, and that should we not succeed in shooting
him when thus situated, we might expect a long chase of it.
As we approached the spot, we all by degrees united into a
body, but on seeing the dogs at the foot of a large tree,
separated again and galloped off to surround it.
Each hunter now moved with caution, holding his gun ready,
and allowing the bridle to dangle on the neck of his horse,
as it advanced slowly towards the dogs. A shot from one of
the party was heard, on which the cougar was seen to leap to
the ground, and bound off with such velocity as to show that
he was very unwilling to stand our fire longer. The dogs set
off in pursuit with great eagerness and a deafening cry. The
hunter who had fired came up and said that his ball had hit
the monster, and had probably broken one of his fore legs
near the shoulder, the only place at which he could aim. A
slight trail of blood was discovered on the ground, but the
curs proceeded at such a rate that we merely noticed this,
and put spurs to our horses, which galloped on towards the
centre of the swamp. One bayou was crossed, then another
still larger and more muddy; but the dogs were brushing
forward, and as the horses began to pant at a furious rate,
we judged it expedient to leave them and advance on foot.
These determined hunters knew that the cougar being wounded,
would shortly ascend another tree, where in all probability
he would remain for a considerable time, and that it would
be easy to follow the track of the dogs. We dismounted, took
off the saddles and bridles, set the bells attached to the
horses’ necks at liberty to jingle, hoppled the animals, and
left them to shift for themselves.
Now, reader, follow the group marching through the swamp,
crossing muddy pools, and making the best of their way
over fallen trees and amongst the tangled rushes that
now and then covered acres of ground. If you are a hunter
yourself, all this will appear nothing to you; but if crowded
assemblies of ‘beauty and fashion,’ or the quiet enjoyment
of your ‘pleasure-grounds,’ alone delight you, I must mend
my pen before I attempt to give you an idea of the pleasure
felt on such an expedition.
After marching for a couple of hours, we again heard the
dogs. Each of us again pressed forward, elated at the
thought of terminating the career of the cougar. Some of the
dogs were heard whining, although the greater number barked
vehemently. We felt assured that the cougar was treed, and
that he would rest for some time to recover from his fatigue.
As we came up to the dogs, we discovered the ferocious
animal lying across a large branch, close to the trunk of a
cotton-wood tree. His brood breast lay towards us; his eyes
were at one time bent on us and again on the dogs beneath
and around him; one of his fore legs hung loosely by his
side, and he lay crouched, with his ears lowered close to
his head, as if he thought he might remain undiscovered.
Three balls were fired at him, at a given signal, on which
he sprang a few feet from the branch, and tumbled headlong
to the ground. Attacked on all sides by the enraged curs,
the infuriated cougar fought with desperate valor; but the
squatter advancing in front of the party, and almost in the
midst of the dogs, shot him immediately behind and beneath
the left shoulder. The cougar writhed for a moment in agony,
and in another lay dead.――_Audubon._
43 – Godman.
44 – The prairie wolves are much smaller than those which inhabit
the woods. They generally travel together in numbers, and
a solitary one is seldom met with. Two or three of us have
often pursued from fifty to one hundred, driving them before
us as quickly as our horses could charge.
Their skins are of no value, and we do not therefore waste
much powder and ball in shooting them. The Indians, who
are obliged to pay dear for their ammunition, are equally
careful not to throw it away on objects that bring no
remunerating value. The natural consequence is, that the
wolves are allowed to multiply; and some parts of the
country are completely overrun by them. The Indians catch
numbers of them in traps, which they set in the vicinity
of those places where their tame horses are sent to graze.
The traps are merely excavations covered over with slight
switches and hay, and bated with meat, &c., into which
the wolves fall, and being unable to extricate themselves,
they perish by famine, or the knife of the Indian. These
destructive animals annually destroy numbers of horses;
particularly during the winter season, when the latter get
entangled in the snow; in which situation they become an
easy prey to their lightfooted pursuers, ten or fifteen of
which will often fasten on one animal, and with their long
fangs in a few minutes separate the head from the body. If,
however, the horses are not prevented from using their legs,
they sometimes punish the enemy severely; as an instance
of this, I saw one morning the bodies of two of our horses
which had been killed the night before, and around were
lying eight dead and maimed wolves; some with their brains
scattered about, and others with their limbs and ribs broken
by the hoofs of the furious animals in their vain attempts
to escape from their sanguinary assailants.
While I was at Spokan, I went occasionally to the horse
prairie, which is nearly surrounded by partially wooded
hills, for the purpose of watching the manœuvres of the
wolves in their combined attacks. The first announcement of
their approach was a few shrill currish barks at intervals,
like the outpost firing of skirmishing parties. These were
answered by similar barking from an opposite direction,
until the sounds gradually approximated, and, at length,
ceased on the junction of the different parties. We prepared
our guns, and concealed ourselves behind a thick cover.
In the mean time, the horses, sensible of the approaching
danger, began to paw the ground, snort, toss up their heads,
look wildly about them, and exhibit all the symptoms of fear.
One or two stallions took the lead, and appeared to wait
with a degree of comparative composure for the appearance of
the enemy.
The allies, at length, entered the field in a semicircular
form, with their flanks extended for the evident purpose
of surrounding their prey. They were between two and three
hundred strong. The horses, on observing their movement,
knew from experience its object, and dreading to encounter
so numerous a force, instantly turned round, and galloped
off in a contrary direction. Their flight was the signal
for the wolves to advance; and immediately uttering a
simultaneous yell, they charged after the fugitives, still
preserving their crescent form. Two or three of the horses,
which were not in the best condition, were quickly overtaken
by the advance guard of the enemy. The former, finding
themselves unable to keep up with the band, commenced
kicking at their pursuers, several of which received some
severe blows; but these being reinforced by others, they
would have shortly despatched the horses, had we not,
just in time, emerged from our place of concealment, and
discharged a volley at the enemy’s centre, by which a few
were brought down. The whole battalion instantly wheeled
about, and fled towards the hills in the utmost disorder;
while the horses, on hearing the fire, changed their course,
and galloped up to us. Our appearance saved several of them
from the fangs of their foes; and by their neighing they
seemed to express their joy and gratitude at our timely
interference.
Although the wolves of North America are the most daring
of all the beasts of prey on that continent, they are by
no means so courageous or ferocious as those of Europe,
particularly in Spain or the south of France, in which
countries they commit dreadful ravages both on man and beast,
whereas an American wolf, except forced by desperation, will
seldom or never attack a human being; a remarkable instance
of which is mentioned in the detail of my wanderings, in
the eighth chapter. The lynxes are by no means so numerous
as the wolves, but they are equally destructive, and
individually more daring. They generally travel alone, or
in couples, and seldom fly, as the wolves do, on the first
approach of man. The largest American lynx does not exceed
in size an English mastiff.――_Ross Cox._
45 – A very young whelp of this fox was, some time ago, brought
to the Philadelphia Museum in company with its foster mother,
a common cat, which had adopted and appeared to be very fond
of it. She continued to nurse the little fox for several
weeks, expressing much affectionate solicitude when he
wandered from her, notwithstanding the frequent ungrateful
bites inflicted by her vicious foundling. How long this
singular relation might have continued, or to what result it
would have led, is unknown. The fox strayed too far from his
cautions nurse, fell from the platform of a tall staircase
to the ground, and was killed; the poor cat evinced as much
sorrow for her loss as if it had been really her own
offspring.
46 – For a very full, minute, and interesting account of the
beaver, we refer our readers to the second volume of
Godman’s Natural History.
47 – Flying squirrels are said to be found in the north of
Europe, but they are very scarce.
48 – Nuttall.
49 – The figure of this noble bird is well known throughout
the civilized world, emblazoned as it is on our national
standard, which waves in the breeze of every clime, bearing
to distant lands the remembrance of a great people living in
a state of peaceful freedom. May that peaceful freedom last
forever!
The great strength, daring, and cool courage of the
white-headed eagle, joined to his unequalled power of
flight, render him highly conspicuous among his brethren.
To these qualities did he add a generous disposition towards
others, he might be looked up to as a model of nobility. The
ferocious, overbearing, and tyrannical temper which is ever
and anon displaying itself in his actions, is, nevertheless,
best adapted to his state, and was wisely given him by the
Creator to enable him to perform the office assigned to him.
To give you some idea of the nature of this bird, permit
me to place you on the Mississippi, on which you may float
gently along, while approaching winter brings millions of
water-fowl on whistling wings, from the countries of the
north, to seek a milder climate in which to sojourn for a
season. The eagle is seen perched, in an erect attitude,
on the highest summit of the tallest tree by the margin of
the broad stream, his glistening but stern eye looks over
the vast expanse. He listens attentively to every sound that
comes to his quick ear from afar, glancing now and then on
the earth beneath, lest even the light tread of the fawn may
pass unheard. His mate is perched on the opposite side, and
should all be tranquil and silent, warns him by a cry to
continue patient. At this well-known call, the male partly
opens his broad wings, inclines his body a little downwards,
and answers to her voice in tones not unlike the laugh of a
maniac. The next moment, he resumes his erect attitude, and
again all around is silent.
Ducks of many species, the teal, the wigeon, the mallard and
others, are seen passing with great rapidity, and following
the course of the current; but the eagle heeds them not:
they are at that time beneath his attention. The next moment,
however, the wild trumpet-like sound of a yet distant but
approaching swan is heard. A shriek from the female eagle
comes across the stream,――for she is as fully on the alert
as her mate. The latter suddenly shakes the whole of his
body, and with a few touches of his bill, aided by the
action of his cuticular muscles, arranges his plumage in
an instant. The snow-white bird is now in sight: her long
neck is stretched forward, her eye is on the watch, vigilant
as that of her enemy; her large wings seem with difficulty
to support the weight of her body, although they flap
incessantly. So irksome do her exertions seem, that her very
legs are spread beneath her tail, to aid her in her flight.
She approaches, however. The eagle has marked her for his
prey. As the swan is passing the dreaded pair, the male bird,
in full preparation for the chase, starts from his perch
with an awful scream, that to the swan’s ear brings more
terror than the report of the large duck-gun.
Now is the moment to witness the display of the eagle’s
powers. He glides through the air like a falling star,
and, like a flash of lightning, comes upon the timorous
quarry, which now, in agony and despair, seeks, by various
manœuvres, to elude the grasp of his cruel talons. It mounts,
doubles, and willingly would plunge into the stream, were
it not prevented by the eagle, which, long possessed of the
knowledge that by such a stratagem the swan might escape him,
forces it to remain in the air by attempting to strike it
with his talons from beneath. The hope of escape is soon
given up by the swan. It has already become much weakened,
and its strength fails at the sight of the courage and
swiftness of its antagonist. Its last gasp is about to
escape, when the ferocious eagle strikes with his talons the
under side of its wing, and with unresisted power forces the
bird to fall in a slanting direction upon the nearest shore.
It is then, reader, that you may see the cruel spirit of
this dreaded enemy of the feathered race, whilst, exulting
over his prey, he for the first time breathes at ease.
He presses down his powerful feet, and drives his sharp
claws deeper than ever into the heart of the dying swan. He
shrieks with delight, as he feels the last convulsions of
his prey, which has now sunk under his unceasing efforts to
render death as painfully felt as it can possibly be. The
female has watched every movement of her mate; and if she
did not assist him in capturing the swan, it was not from
want of will, but merely that she felt full assurance that
the power and courage of her lord were quite sufficient for
the deed. She now sails to the spot where he eagerly awaits
her, and when she has arrived, they together turn the breast
of the luckless swan upwards, and gorge themselves with
gore.――_Audubon._
50 – Bonaparte
51 – When the female is disposed to lay, she appears restless and
dejected, and separates from the unregarding flock. Stealing
through the woods and thickets, she pries into the bushes
and brambles for the nest that suits her, into which she
darts, in the absence of its owner, and in a few minutes
is seen to rise on the wing, cheerful and relieved from the
anxiety that oppressed her, and proceeds back to the flock
she had so reluctantly forsaken. If the egg be deposited in
the nest alone, it is uniformly forsaken; but if the nursing
parent have any of her own, she immediately begins to sit.
The red-eyed flycatcher, in whose beautiful basket-like
nests I have observed these eggs, proves a very affectionate
and assiduous nurse to the uncouth foundling. In one of
these I found an egg of each bird, and the hen already
sitting. I took her own egg and left the strange one; she
soon returned, and, as if sensible of what had happened,
looked with steadfast attention, and shifted the egg about,
then sate upon it, but soon moved off, again renewed her
observation, and it was a considerable time before she
seemed willing to take her seat; but at length I left her
on the nest. Two or three days after, I found that she had
relinquished her attention to the strange egg, and forsaken
the premises. Another of these birds, however, forsook the
nest, on taking out the cow-bird’s egg, although she had
still two of her own left. The only example, perhaps, to
the contrary of deserting the nest when solely occupied by
the stray egg, is in the blue-bird, who, attached strongly
to the breeding places, in which it often continues for
several years, has been known to lay, though with apparent
reluctance, after the deposition of the cow-bird’s egg. My
friend, Mr. C. Pickering, found two nests of the blue-eyed
yellow warbler, in which had been deposited an egg of the
cow-bird previously to any of their own; and unable to eject
it, they had buried it in the bottom of the nest, and built
over it an additional story! I also saw, in the summer of
1830, a similar circumstance with the same bird, in which
the cow-bird’s egg, though incarcerated, was still visible
on the upper edge, but could never have been hatched. At
times, I think it probable, that they lay in the nests
of larger birds, who throw out the egg, or that they drop
their eggs on the ground without obtaining a deposit, as
I have found an egg of this kind thus exposed and broken.
I have also remarked sometimes two of these eggs in the
same nest; but in this case one of them commonly proves
abortive.――_Nuttall._
52 – Wilson.
53 – _Turkey Shooting._――Good dogs scent the turkeys, when in
large flocks, at extraordinary distances,――I think I may
venture to say half a mile. Should the dog be well trained
to this sport, he sets off at full speed, and in silence,
until he sees the birds, when he instantly barks, and
pushing as much as possible into the centre of the flock,
forces the whole to take wing in different directions. This
is of great advantage to the hunter, for should the turkeys
all go one way, they would soon leave their perches and
run again. But when they separate in this manner, and the
weather happens to be calm and lowering, a person accustomed
to this kind of sport finds the birds with ease, and shoots
them at pleasure.
When turkeys alight on a tree, it is sometimes very
difficult to see them, which is owing to their standing
perfectly motionless. Should you discover one, when it
is down on its legs upon the branch, you may approach it
with less care. But if it is standing erect, the greatest
precaution is necessary, for should it discover you, it
instantly flies off, frequently to such a distance that it
would be vain to follow.
When a turkey is merely winged by a shot, it falls quickly
to the ground in a slanting direction. Then, instead of
losing time by tumbling and rolling over, as other birds
often do when wounded, it runs off at such a rate, that
unless the hunter be provided with a swift dog, he may
bid farewell to it. I recollect coming on one shot in this
manner, more than a mile from the tree where it had been
perched, my dog having traced it to this distance, through
one of those thick cane-brakes that cover many portions of
our rich alluvial lands near the banks of our western rivers.
Turkeys are easily killed if shot in the head, the neck, or
the upper part of the breast; but if hit in the hind parts
only they often fly so far as to be lost to the hunter.
During winter, many of our _real_ hunters shoot them by
moonlight, on the roosts, where these birds will frequently
stand a repetition of the reports of a rifle, although they
would fly from the attack of an owl or even perhaps from his
presence. Thus sometimes nearly a whole flock is secured by
men capable of using these guns in such circumstances. They
are often destroyed in great numbers when most worthless,
that is, early in the fall or autumn, when many are killed
in their attempt to cross the rivers, or immediately after
they reach the shore.
Whilst speaking of the shooting of turkeys, I feel no
hesitation in relating the following occurrence, which
happened to myself. While in search of game, one afternoon
late in autumn, when the males go together, and the females
are by themselves also, I heard the clucking of one of the
latter, and immediately finding her perched on a fence, made
towards her. Advancing slowly and cautiously, I heard the
yelping notes of some gobblers, when I stopped and listened
in order to ascertain the direction in which they came.
I then ran to meet the birds, hid myself by the side of a
large fallen tree, cocked my gun, and waited with impatience
for a good opportunity. The gobblers continued yelping in
answer to the female, which all this while remained on the
fence. I looked over the log and saw about thirty fine cocks
advancing rather cautiously towards the very spot where I
lay concealed. They came so near that the light in their
eyes could easily be perceived, when I fired one barrel,
and killed three. The rest, instead of flying off, fell a
strutting around their dead companions, and had I not looked
on shooting again as murder without necessity, I might have
secured at least another. So I showed myself, and marching
to the place where the dead birds were, drove away the
survivors. I may also mention, that a friend of mine shot a
fine hen, from his horse, with a pistol, as the poor thing
was probably returning to her nest to lay.
Should you, good-natured reader, be a sportsman, and now and
then have been fortunate in the exercise of your craft, the
following incident, which I shall relate to you as I had it
from the mouth of an honest farmer, may prove interesting.
Turkeys were very abundant in his neighborhood, and,
resorting to his corn-fields, at the period when the maize
had just shot up from the ground, destroyed great quantities
of it. This induced him to swear vengeance against the
species. He cut a long trench in a favorable situation, put
a great quantity of corn in it, and having heavily loaded
a famous duck-gun of his, placed it so as that he could
pull the trigger by means of a string, when quite concealed
from the birds. The turkeys soon discovered the corn in
the trench, and quickly disposed of it, at the same time
continuing their ravages in the fields. He filled the trench
again, and one day seeing it quite black with the turkeys,
whistled loudly, on which all the birds raised their heads,
when he pulled the trigger by the long string fastened to
it. The explosion followed of course, and the turkeys were
seen scampering off in all directions, in utter discomfiture
and dismay. On running to the trench, he found nine of them
extended in it. The rest did not consider it expedient to
visit his corn again for that season.
During spring, turkeys are _called_, as it is termed, by
drawing the air in a particular way through one of the
second joint bones of a wing of that bird, which produces a
sound resembling the voice of the female, on hearing which
the male comes up, and is shot. In managing this, however,
no fault must be committed, for turkeys are quick in
distinguishing counterfeit sounds, and when _half civilized_
are very wary and cunning. I have known many to answer to
this kind of call, without moving a step, and thus entirely
defeat the scheme of the hunter, who dared not move from
his hiding-place, lest a single glance of the gobbler’s eye
should frustrate all further attempts to decoy them. Many
are shot when at roost, in this season, by answering with
a rolling gobble to a sound in imitation of the cry of the
barred owl.
While at Henderson, on the Ohio, I had, among many other
wild birds, a fine male turkey, which had been reared from
its earliest youth under my care, it having been caught by
me when probably not more than two or three days old. It
became so tame that it would follow any person who called
it, and was the favorite of the little village. Yet it would
never roost with the tame turkeys, but regularly betook
itself at night to the roof of the house, where it remained
until dawn. When two years old, it began to fly to the woods,
where it remained for a considerable part of the day, to
return to the enclosure as night approached. It continued
this practice until the following spring, when I saw it
several times fly from its roosting place to the top of
a high cotton tree, on the bank of the Ohio, from which,
after resting a little, it would sail to the opposite shore,
the river being there nearly half a mile wide, and return
towards night.
One morning I saw it fly off, at a very early hour, to the
woods, in another direction, and took no particular notice
of the circumstance. Several days elapsed, but the bird did
not return. I was going towards some lakes near Green River
to shoot, when having walked about five miles, I saw a fine
large gobbler cross the path before me, moving leisurely
along. Turkeys being then in prime condition for the table,
I ordered my dog to chase it, and put it up. The animal went
off with great rapidity, and as it approached the turkey,
I saw, with great surprise, that the latter paid little
attention. Juno was on the point of seizing it, when she
suddenly stopped, and turned her head towards me. I hastened
to them, but you may easily conceive my surprise when I saw
my own favorite bird, and discovered that it had recognised
the dog, and would not fly from it: although the sight of
a strange dog would have caused it to run off at once. A
friend of mine happening to be in search of a wounded deer,
took the bird on his saddle before him, and carried it
home for me. The following spring it was accidentally shot,
having been taken for a wild bird, and brought to me on
being recognised by the red ribbon which it had around
its neck. Pray, reader, by what word will you designate
the recognition made by my favorite turkey of a dog
which had been long associated with it in the yard and
grounds? Was it the result of instinct, or of reason,――an
unconsciously revived impression, or the act of an
intelligent mind?――_Audubon._
54 – _Duck Shooting on the Chesapeak._――To a stranger, visiting
these waters, the innumerable ducks, feeding in beds of
thousands, or filling the air with their careering, with
the great numbers of beautiful white swans resting near
the shores, like banks of driven snow, he would naturally
suppose the facilities for their destruction were equal
to their profusion, and with so large an object in view, a
sportsman could scarcely miss his aim. But when he considers
the great thickness of their covering, the velocity of their
flight, the rapidity and duration of their diving, and the
great influence that circumstances of wind and weather have
on the chances of success, it becomes a matter of wonder how
so many are destroyed.
The usual mode of taking these birds has been, till recently,
by shooting from the points during the flight, or from the
land or boats, on their feeding grounds, or by _toling_,
as it is strangely termed, an operation by which the ducks
are sometimes induced to approach within a few feet of the
shore, from a distance often of several hundred yards. This
process, though it has been frequently described, may not
be uninteresting to repeat. A spot is usually selected where
the birds have not been much disturbed, and where they feed
at three or four hundred yards from, and can approach to
within forty or fifty yards of the shore, as they will never
come nearer than they can swim freely. The higher the tides
and calmer the day, the better, for they feed closer to the
shores and see more distinctly. Most persons on these waters
have a race of small, white or liver-colored dogs, which are
familiarly called the _toler_ breed, but which appear to be
the ordinary poodle.
These dogs are extremely playful, and are taught to run up
and down the shore, in sight of the ducks, either by the
motion of the hand, or by throwing chips from side to side.
They soon become perfectly acquainted with their business,
and as they discover the ducks approaching them, make their
jumps less high, till they almost crawl on the ground,
to prevent the birds discovering what the object of their
curiosity may be. This disposition to examine rarities,
has been taken advantage of, by using a red or black
handkerchief, by day, and white, by night, in toling,
or even by gently splashing the water on the shore. The
nearest ducks soon notice the strange appearance, whatever
the plan attempted, raise their heads, gaze intently for
a moment, then push for the shore. The rest follow suit,
and the author has, on many occasions, seen thousands of
them swimming in a solid mass, direct to the object; and
by removing the dog further into the grass, they have been
brought within fifteen feet of the bank. When they have
approached to about thirty or forty yards, their curiosity
is generally satisfied, when they swim laterally up and
down for a few seconds, and then retrograde in their old
spot. Whilst presenting the side view, is the moment to
shoot, and forty or fifty ducks have often been killed
by a small gun. The _black-heads_ tole the most readily,
then the _red-heads_, next the _canvass-backs_, and the
_bald-pates_ rarely; and this is the ratio of their approach
to the points in flying, although if the canvass-back has
determined on his direction, few circumstances will change
his course. The total absence of cover or precaution against
exposure to sight, or even a large fire, will not turn these
birds aside on such occasions.
In _flying_ shooting, the _bald-pate_ is a great nuisance,
for they are so shy, that they not only avoid the points
themselves, but by their whistling and confusion of flight
at such times, alarm others; and few days occur during the
season, without many maledictions on their very existence.
As simple as it may appear to shoot, with success, into
a solid mass of ducks, sitting on the water at forty or
fifty yards’ distance, yet, when you recollect, that you are
placed nearly level with the water, the object opposed to
the visual line, even though composed of hundreds, may be in
appearance but a foot or two in width. To give, therefore,
the best promise of success, old duckers recommend that the
_nearest_ duck should be in perfect relief above the sight,
whatever the size of the column, to avoid the common result
of over-shooting. The correctness of this principle was
illustrated to the writer, in an instance in which he had
_toled_, to within a space between forty and seventy yards
of the shore, a bed of certainly hundreds of ducks. Twenty
yards beyond the outside birds of the solid mass, were
five black-heads, one of which was alone killed out of the
_whole_ number, by a deliberate aim into the _middle_ of the
large flock, from a rest, by a heavy, well-proved duck-gun.
Before I leave the subject of _sitting_ shooting, I will
mention an occurrence that took place on Bush river, a few
years since. A man whose house was situated near the bank,
on rising early one morning, observed the river had frozen,
except an open space of ten or twelve feet in diameter,
at about eighty yards from the shore, nearly opposite his
house. The spot was full of ducks, and with a heavy gun he
fired into it; many were killed, and those that flew soon
returned, and were again and again shot at, till fearful he
was injuring those already his own, he ceased the massacre,
and brought on shore ninety-two ducks, most of which were
canvass-backs.
Canvass-backs, when wounded, on the streams near the bay,
instantly direct their course for it, where they nestle
among the grass, on the shores, till cured, or destroyed
by eagles, hawks, gulls, foxes, or other vermin, that are
constantly on the search; and if a dead canvass-back be not
soon secured, he becomes a prey to the gulls, who rarely
touch any other kind, so refined is their taste. I have seen
severe contests take place between crippled canvass-backs
and gulls, and although a pounce or two generally prevents
further resistance, sometimes they are driven off. If the
bird is remarkably savory, the gull makes such a noise, that
others are soon collected, when possession is determined by
courage or strength.――_Doughty’s Cabinet._
55 – When wounded in the wing alone, a large swan will readily
beat off a dog, and is more than a match for a man in four
feet water, a stroke of the wing having broken an arm, and
the powerful feet almost obliterating the face of a good
sized duck shooter. They are often killed by rifle balls
thrown from the shore into the feeding column, and as a ball
will _ricochet_ on the water for several hundred yards, a
wing may be disabled at the distance of half a mile.
These birds are often brought within shooting range, by
sailing down upon them whilst feeding, and, as they arise
against the wind, and cannot leave the water for fifteen
or twenty yards, against which they strike their enormous
feet and wings most furiously, great advantage is gained in
distance. They must be allowed on _all_ occasions to turn
the side, for a breast shot rarely succeeds in entering.
When two feeding coves are separated by a single point,
by disturbing the swans in one or the other occasionally,
they will pass and repass very closely to this projection of
land, and usually taking as they do, the straight line, each
gunner, to prevent dispute, names the bird he will shoot at.
In winter, boats covered by pieces of ice, the sportsman
being dressed in white, are paddled or allowed to float
during the night into the midst of a flock, and they have
been oftentimes killed, by being knocked on the head and
neck by a pole. There is, however, much danger in this mode,
as others may be engaged in like manner, but shooting, and
at a short distance, the persons might not be distinguished
from the swan. These birds seem well aware of the range
of a gun, and I have followed them in a skiff for miles,
driving a body of several hundreds before me, without the
possibility of getting quite within shooting distance.
It is a curious circumstance, that Wilson has neither
figured nor described this beautiful and common bird
in his ornithology; but Mr. Lawson, the engraver of his
splendid plates, and also his personal friend, informs me,
he had waited for another southern expedition, which he did
not live to perform. A particular history, in detail, of
this splendid bird has heretofore never been given to the
public.――_Sharpless._
56 – The rock fish is universally known in all the rivers, and
smaller tide-water streams, throughout the United States.
The following description of the mode in which this fish is
trolled for in the Susquehannah may be interesting. It is
taken from the American Sporting Magazine.
‘The season for trolling begins in the latter part of May,
and commonly ends about the middle of July; but some years
lasts during August. In the month of June the rock fish
generally bite best. To make good fishing, the river should
not be very high nor low, muddy nor clear, but betwixt
extremes in these respects. If the water be clear, the fish
dart off at sight of the line; and it is thought, they leave
the rapids, when the river is rising, or muddy, to feed upon
the flats in the Chesapeak.
‘Trolling is very much practised from Port Deposit, to
almost any given distance up the river, but not below. The
grass that the ducks feed upon, grows too thick on the flats
in tide-water for trolling, and the channel is uniformly
too deep. The rapids above, where the water is in many parts
shoal, and the rocky bottom clear of grass, is the proper
place for trolling.
‘Two persons generally fish from the same boat; one of
them steers with one hand, and fishes with the other.
Each fisherman lets his line out over the side of the boat
nearest to him, and close to the stern, (where they sit,)
holding it in his hand, a few inches from the water, and
leaves the end attached to the cork in the bottom of the
boat. He pays out nearly all his line, and keeps constantly
pulling it, by short jerks, to feel if it is running over
a rock or tree top. The boat is rowed as fast as possible
across the river, from shore to shore, above, and as near
to the falls as they can go, to avoid being swept down them.
The rock fish lie below the falls and ripples, waiting for
the small fish that are carried over by the current. Here
then the bait falls over, with a constant rotary motion,
like a live fish whirled over, side foremost, and struggles
in vain against the falls. The swivels turn every time the
bait turns, and prevent the line from twisting up into knots;
and as there are no sinkers, the rapid head-way of the boat
drags them along so fast that the lines have no time to
sink. At sight of the bait tumbling over the falls, the
rock fish darts upwards from his cavern in the rocks, and
swallows hook and all. The bite of the rock fish is quick
as lightning, and gives a sudden jerk to the arm of the
fisherman. When he first discovers he is snared, he rises
to the top of the water, and begins to lash it furiously
with his forked tail, like “a spirit conjured from the vasty
deep,” then plunges down again to the bottom. He is dragged
from thence by the fisherman, who hauls in his long line,
hand over hand, until he brings his fish alongside of the
boat. If he is of tolerable size, weighing only seven or ten
pounds, the troller lifts him into the boat by the line; but
if the fish is large, he runs his arm down into the water,
and lifts him in by his gills.
‘The excitement that this scene produces in all those in
the boat, is not to be described. One instant you see the
fish making the water foam with his tail, the next you lose
sight of him; one instant the troller feels him jerking
desperately backwards, the next he darts ahead towards the
boat, carrying the line with him; and the fisherman, who
ceases to feel him, is distressed for fear he has broken
loose from the hook. The black oarsmen ease up rowing to
laugh and shout with great glee. The troller’s anxiety
to secure his fish is so great, that he alone, of all the
company, is silent, and full of uneasiness, until he gets
him into the boat. In this manner, it is not unusual to
catch, with two lines, ten or twenty fish, varying in weight
from five to twenty pounds each, in an hour――sometimes they
are caught much larger. When the fish do not bite fast, the
troller does not become wearied soon; his line is always
out, and he is in constant expectation of feeling a bite,
as the boat glides backwards and forwards across the river,
in search of luck; he is not confined to one rock, like the
sleepy angler.
‘This would be very dangerous sport to persons unaccustomed
to it; let no presumptuous cits venture upon it by
themselves. The flat-bottomed boat must be rowed through the
most dangerous falls and whirlpools in the river. Sometimes
she is forced, at an imperceptible progress, against a
current running down at an angle of forty-five degrees. If
one of the oarsmen happens to fail in strength, or to dip
his oar with a false stroke, the current will snatch it
upwards out of his hands, and the frail skiff will be dashed
to pieces amongst the rocks. Often they are obliged to get
out of the boat on some rock above water, and haul her over.
A person unaccustomed to it, cannot rely upon his senses
of hearing or seeing. He is first deafened by the stunning
roar of the incessant flood, then sickened by the tossing of
the skiff amongst the waves and eddies. The huge rocks that
rear themselves thick to oppose the rushing waters, covered
with eagles, and cormorants, and the little islands all
_seem to be_ swimming backwards. And now she flies across
a shoal――at first glimpse, the little skiff seems to rest
securely on the bottom; at the next, the solid bottom
appears deceitfully to recede from beneath her, and leave
her to founder in the dark waters of a bottomless swirl.
And again, before _he_ is aware of it, she seems to have
approached so near the falls that nothing can prevent her
from going over side foremost. All these false appearances
rushing in succession, quick as thought, upon the mind of
the troubled cockney, turn his brain with dizziness.’
57 – A curious incident occurred at this spot to one of our men
named La Course, which was nearly proving fatal. This man
had stretched himself on the ground, after the fatigue of
the day, with his head resting on a small package of goods,
and quickly fell asleep. While in this situation I passed
him, and was almost petrified at seeing a large rattlesnake
moving from his side to his left breast. My first impulse
was to alarm La Course; but an old Canadian, whom I had
beckoned to the spot, requested me to make no noise,
alleging it would merely cross the body, and go away. He
was mistaken; for on reaching the man’s left shoulder, the
serpent deliberately coiled itself, but did not appear to
meditate an attack. Having made signs to several others,
who joined us, it was determined that two men should advance
a little in front, to divert the attention of the snake,
while one should approach La Course behind, and with a long
stick endeavor to remove it from his body. The snake, on
observing the men advance in front, instantly raised its
head, darted out its forked tongue, and shook its rattles;
all indications of anger. Every one was now in a state of
feverish agitation as to the fate of poor La Course, who
still lay slumbering, unconscious of his danger; when the
man behind, who had procured a stick seven feet in length,
suddenly placed one end of it under the coiled reptile, and
succeeded it pitching it upwards of ten feet from the man’s
body. A shout of joy was the first intimation La Course
received of his wonderful escape, while in the mean time
the man with the stick pursued the snake which he killed. It
was three feet six inches long, and eleven years old, which,
I need not inform my readers, we easily ascertained by the
number of rattles. A general search was then commenced about
the encampment, and under several rocks we found upwards of
fifty of them, all of which we destroyed. There is no danger
attending their destruction, provided a person has a long
pliant stick, and does not approach them nearer than their
length, for they cannot spring beyond it, and seldom act
on the offensive except closely pursued. They have a strong
repugnance to the smell of tobacco, in consequence of which
we opened a bale of it, and strewed a quantity of loose
leaves about the tents, by which means we avoided their
visits during the night――_Ross Cox._
58 – Silliman’s Journal.
59 – For a list of the counties in this and the other states,
with their population, see the statistical tables at the end
of the volume.
60 – Baltimore has the honor, I believe, of being the first city
which has raised an architectural memorial of its gratitude
to Washington. It consists of a column of white marble,
rising from a quadrangular base. The shaft of the column is
about one hundred and twenty feet high, and is surmounted
by a colossal statue, which, from its throne, seems proudly
to overlook the city. The design of this monument, which is
yet unfinished, is simple and grand, and does honor to the
taste of the city. Its gross height, including the statue
and pedestal, is about a hundred and sixty feet.
In one of the squares of the city, there is what is called
the Battle Monument, a sort of trophy column, erected to
commemorate the repulse of the attack on the city during
the late war, and the names of those who fell in its
defence. This structure, which is about fifty feet in
height, consists of a column representing the Roman fasces,
symbolical of the union, rising from a square pedestal,
which tapers in the Egyptian style, with a griffin at each
corner. Above is the statue of Victory, with an eagle at
her side. The effect of the whole is sadly injured by a most
anomalous perplexity of petty details. Indeed so vicious
is this monument, in point of taste, that it is difficult
to believe it the production of the same period which has
adorned the city with the noble structure to Washington.
I remember being asked by a lady, in one of the first
visits I paid in Baltimore, whether I had seen this monument.
Having answered in the negative, she proceeded to inform
me that it was very beautiful, but, as if struck by a
sudden recollection, somewhat eagerly apologised for the
introduction of the subject, on account of the painful
feelings which this memorial of failure in his country’s
arms, could not fail to excite in an English spectator. In
reply, I took the liberty to assure her that her regrets
on this matter were entirely gratuitous; that I should
have great pleasure in examining the monument, and really
entertained no apprehension of suffering from any pungency
of feeling on the occasion. It was easy to observe, however,
that my disclaimers, like the inaugural _nolo episcopari_
of the bishops, went for nothing with my fair auditor. Her
apologies for having wounded my feelings, became even more
strenuous than before; and as it was evidently agreeable
that I should appear in the light of a mortified man, I at
length judged it better to desist from farther disclamation.
If I know any thing of John Bull, he is not quite so
sensitive a person, as it pleases the good people on
this side of the water to believe him; and the idea of an
Englishman, at the present day, being distressed by regret
at the failure of the attack on Baltimore, is, perhaps,
somewhat closely connected with the ludicrous.
Baltimore is celebrated for its hospitality and the beauty
of its women, and I can bear testimony to the justice of
its reputation for both. In no other city of the United
States is the former so frequent and habitual, and in
none are there so few of the sordid characteristics of
traffic apparent to a stranger. There struck me as being
at Baltimore, more effort than elsewhere, to combine the
pleasures of social life with professional labor. The
effect of this is generally felt in society. The tone of
conversation is lighter and more agreeable, and topics of
mere commercial interest are rarely obtruded at the dinner
table.
In Baltimore, there is not much pretension of any sort, and
the average of literary accomplishment is, perhaps, lower
than in Philadelphia or Boston. In such matters, however,
a transient visitor can form, at best, but an uncertain and
very fallible judgment; but I can with truth assert, that my
recollections of Baltimore are of the most agreeable kind,
and that I quitted it with a strong sentiment of regard for
several of its inhabitants, which time has yet done nothing
to diminish.
The ladies of Baltimore, I have already intimated, are
remarkable for personal attraction; indeed, I am not aware
that, in proportion to the numbers assembled, I have ever
seen so much beauty as in the parties of Baltimore. The
figure is, perhaps, deficient in height, but sylph-like and
graceful; the features are generally regular and delicately
modelled, and the fair Baltimoreans are less remarkable
than the American ladies usually are, for the absence of a
certain fulness and grace of proportion, to which, from its
rarity, one is led, perhaps, to attach somewhat too much
value as an ingredient of beauty.――_Hamilton’s America._
61 – The road, as we approached Boston, lay through a more
populous country, and we passed a height, which commanded a
fine view of the bay. At length, entering on a long street,
I found myself surrounded by the busy hum of a great city.
The first impression was decidedly favorable. There is in
Boston less of that rawness of outline, and inconsistency of
architecture, which had struck me in New York. The truth is,
that the latter has increased so rapidly, that nine tenths
of the city have been built within the last thirty years,
and probably one half of it within a third of the period. In
Boston, both wealth and population have advanced at a slower
pace. A comparatively small portion of the city is new, and
the hand of time has somewhat mellowed even its deformities,
contributing to render that reverend, which was originally
rude.
There is an air of gravity and solidity about Boston; and
nothing gay or flashy, in the appearance of her streets, or
the crowd who frequent them. New York is a young giantess,
weighing twenty stone, and yet frisky withal. Boston, the
matron of stayed and demure air, a little past her prime,
perhaps, yet showing no symptom of decay. The former is
brisk, bustling, and annually outgrowing her petticoats. The
latter fat, fair, and forty, a great breeder, but turning
her children out of doors, as fast as she produces them. But
it is an old and true apophthegm, that similes seldom run on
all fours, and therefore it is generally prudent not to push
them too far.
Boston stands on an undulating surface, and is surrounded
on three sides by the sea. The harbor is a magnificent
basin, encircled by a beautiful country, rising in gentle
acclivities, and studded with villas. There is nothing
very handsome about the town, which is rather English
in appearance, and might in truth be easily mistaken for
our more populous seaports. A considerable number of the
buildings are of granite, or, more properly speaking, of
sienite; but brick is the prevailing material, and houses
of framework are now rarely to be met with in the streets
inhabited by the better orders. The streets are narrow, and
often crooked, yet, as already stated, they exhibit more
finish and cleanliness than are to be found in New York.
In architecture, I could discover little to admire. The
state house stands on an eminence commanding the city; it
is a massive square building, presenting in front a piazza
of rusticated arches, surmounted by a gratuitous range of
Corinthian columns, which support nothing. The building in
front has a small attic with a pediment, and from the centre
rises a dome, the summit of which is crowned by a square
lantern.
The comparative diffusion of literature in Boston has
brought with it a taste for the fine arts. The better houses
are adorned with pictures; and in the Athenæum――a public
library and reading room――is a collection of casts from the
antique. Establishments for the instruction of the people in
the higher branches of knowledge, are yet almost unknown in
the United States, but something like a Mechanics’ Institute
has at length been got up in Boston, and I went to hear
the introductory lecture. The apartment, a large one, was
crowded by an audience whose appearance and deportment
were in the highest degree orderly and respectable. The
lecture was on the steam engine, the history, principle,
and construction of which were explained most lucidly by
the lecturer, who belonged, I was assured, to the class of
operative mechanics.――_Men and Manners in America._
62 – _Mount Auburn._――If the taste of our readers resembles
our own, we can assure them that they will have no reason
to regret the exertion, if they take a walk through the
retreats of Mount Auburn, at the present season of the year.
They may suppose that the fall of the leaf has deprived
the place of most of its attractions; but it is one of the
recommendations of this beautiful spot, that it remains
pleasant through so many months. As the spring opens, it is
a favorable place to watch the restoration of nature――the
returns of the bird to his favorite home, and the opening of
the sealed urns of the flower; in the summer, a fine retreat
from the sultriness is offered by its deep caverns of green,
formed by heavy masses of rich and various foliage, such as
is found in no other part of this region; and now, in the
closing year, even after the splendid drapery of autumn is
taken down, and the rustle of the dead leaf, together with
the sullen whistle of the wind through its deserted avenues,
seems to speak of nothing but desolation, the lover of
nature still finds every thing in perfect harmony with the
feelings which such a place is desired to awaken. There
is something melancholy in the sight, indeed, but the
associations are neither painful nor oppressive. We know
that the spring will return, and the voice of the bird will
wake the earth from its slumber; the trees will be covered
with beauty, and the streams move on again with music in
their flow; by a familiar association, we are reminded that
a similar happy and reviving change awaits those who have
gone down to the dust in peace, when that which is sown in
weakness shall be raised in power. When thoughts like these
are brought home to the breast, there is consolation in them;
even the eye filled with tears, may brighten with the hope
of immortality.
We trust that the same good judgment which has presided over
the work thus far, will conduct it to its close. It stands
in complete and honorable contrast with most resting places
of the dead. There are few of those monuments, which seem
intended to commemorate the folly of the living, rather than
the memory of the departed――few of those inscriptions which
tell us of those who sleep below, not what they were, but
what they ought to have been. We cannot say that we admire
the rocky cells of the tomb, with their heavy iron grates;
but the taste in this respect is generally governed by early
associations, and we shall not presume to censure feelings
which we do not understand. Among the monuments are many
of great beauty; we were struck with a plain black marble
obelisk of exquisite polish, ornamented only by a single
cross, in relief, on the surface of the stone. There
are several granite obelisks, of plain and almost severe
simplicity, which are admirably suited to the place and the
purpose: several fine monuments of white marble, among which
are an unfinished column, and a cenotaph erected by the
mechanics of Boston to the memory of a lamented young man,
who died at a distance from his home. We apprehend that the
whitest of this marble, however bright at first, will be
soon defaced and blackened by the droppings from the trees
above; it is generally less firm and hard than such as is
veined and shaded, and therefore not so well suited for
memorials that are meant to resist the elements and the
waste of time. The classical form is generally preferred
for this purpose, and with good reason; the ancients have
left us little to do in these respects but to follow their
example. We did not see a single copy of the tomb discovered
by Dr. Clarke, in Naxos, which is in our view one of the
most imposing, and is found in some places in this country.
The _cippus_ is well calculated also for our purposes: we
want monuments of simple outline; for there is taste enough
in our community generally, to feel that fine decorations
are out of their place in cities of the dead. The outline
is more to be regarded than the color: marble of pearly
whiteness would contrast beautifully with the green
back-ground; but since it is less suited to the exposure
required, it is well to use the hardier material in which
our country abounds.
The generations of men are so rapidly passing away, that a
few years will make this interesting place rich in mournful
and sacred associations. We noticed the monument of Hannah
Adams, the first tenant of the place, remarkable for
her fair and discriminating mind, and still more so for
her child-like singleness of heart. Spurzheim also is
there――honored for his enlarged and liberal feeling,
by those who had no confidence in his philosophical
speculations. We have already alluded to the cenotaph
elected to a young man of high promise, by which his friends
have commemorated his virtues and their own loss. But it
is not always those whose loss is most widely felt, whose
memory is most fondly remembered; many who go to the grave
almost unknown, will give sacredness to this place in the
feeling of those who loved them. The parent will regard
it with emotion, because there he saw his child laid upon
a colder pillow than a mother’s breast――or the youth, who
perished in the brightness of his rising, and left his
friends to mourn not only for all he was, but all they
hoped he would have been. The community will turn to it,
as the place where the generous and enlightened, the useful
and honored, rest from their labors; where those who have
passed through the various changes of public confidence,
carry their rivalship and ambition down to the dust. Each
inclosure will have its recollections gathered about it like
the summer leaves over the monument; the feelings of men
of various pursuits and characters will be drawn from all
directions toward this single point of melancholy attraction.
The memorial which one passes coldly by, will fix the
attention of another: the stone which is to one simply a
memorial of a stranger, will be gazed upon by another till
‘his heart is faint, and his eyes are dim.’
We cannot but hope that this example will be followed; the
community at large have yet to learn the right feeling of
respect for the dead. That respect is not shown only by
the care which guards the sepulchre from violation――nor by
setting up ghastly monuments, covered with tales of idle
vanity or unmeaning affection. Whoever goes into the burial
places of many of our villages, sees naked marbles, which
after a few years lean with age, and find no hand to restore
them. Nature, as if ashamed of man, seems endeavoring to
hide what he has done with her tall golden rod and towering
plants, which grow as luxuriantly as if they were fed from
the graves below;――and all is surrounded, not protected, by
a vile paling of unpainted wood, which defends it from no
animal but man. The true respect for the dead will be shown
by making their resting place such, that the stranger shall
not retreat from it in disgust and scorn, by employing the
decorations of nature, which are always at command. One
tenth part of the expense which is now lavished on the
absurd and ungraceful head-stones in almost every village
of New England, would make their burial grounds, places
which could be pointed out to the traveller without regret
and shame; and what is still better, would permit the
living to go and draw instruction from communion with the
dead.――_Boston Daily Advertiser._
63 – There are seventeen other towns, named Concord, in different
parts of the United States.
64 – Though New Orleans is rapidly increasing in size and
commercial importance, as the emporium of the rich valley
of the Mississippi must necessarily continue to do, yet
no improvement has taken place in the climate and in the
salubrity of the atmosphere, and even _acclimated_ whites
are afraid to remain when a greenish scum of vegetable
matter begins to appear on the shallow pools in August. It
is distressing to record the fact, that, on an average, six
hundred Irish perish yearly in and about New Orleans, who
come in search of employment, and high wages, (a dollar a
day), from New York and Charleston, to the ungenial clime
of Louisiana. They are commonly employed trenching in the
country, and digging the foundation of houses in towns,
inhale deadly vapors, and more deadly rum, have none to
advise or guide them, and perish miserably.
It may not be intrusive to state, in this place, the
precautions I took to guard against the formidable malady. I
slept in an upper story, performed my ablutions as regularly
as a Hindoo, ate animal food only once a day, and in small
quantities, (farinaceous substances form the natural food
of men,) drank no spirits, but two or three glasses of wine
per day, took three or four hours’ active exercise, kept
the mind employed, took once or twice a little precautionary
quinine, and avoided the night air, which crept insidiously
through the dull streets loaded with pestilential effluvia
from the slimy banks of the river, and from the creeks
of cypress swamps, the haunts of loathsome alligators and
snakes.
On the first of September, the thermometer at eight, P. M.
was about eighty-four degrees, without a breath of air, but
myriads of mammoth musquetoes.
New Orleans is called the ‘wet grave,’ because, in digging
‘the narrow house,’ water rises within eighteen inches of
the surface. Coffins are therefore sunk three or four feet,
by having holes bored in them, and two black men stand on
them till they fill with water, and reach the bottom of the
moist tomb. Some people are particular, and dislike this
immersion after death; and, therefore, those who can afford
it have a sort of brick oven built on the surface of the
ground, at one end of which the coffin is introduced, and
the door hermetically closed; but the heat of the southern
sun on this ‘whited sepulchre,’ must bake the body inside,
so that there is but a choice of disagreeables after all.
The plan on which penitentiaries are built, has suggested
to the Louisianians a new plan for interment: a broad brick
wall is built with rows of cells on each side, and in these
the dead are laid to wait for the awful blast of the angel
Gabriel, when the dead shall burst the cerements of the tomb,
and come forth to judgment.
Though it was the season of disease and death, yet the
gamblers still continued to reap their harvest in the city.
Night after night I was kept awake by the roulette table
in the neighboring house; and it is said that a revenue
of thirty-five thousand dollars a year is derived by the
city from licensed gambling houses, which sum supports an
hospital. Cock-fighting is a favorite amusement with both
whites and colored, and vice in every shape seems to hold
high carnival in this city of the great valley. However,
let no one judge of America from New Orleans, for it is
altogether _sui generis_; and, above all, let no future
traveller visit it in autumn, unless he wishes ‘to shake
off this mortal coil,’ and save the coroner some trouble.
The population of New Orleans was――
In 1802 10,000
“ 1810 17,242
“ 1820 27,176
“ 1831 50,000
This increase is quite astonishing, especially when we
consider that the population of the whole state of Louisiana
under the French, in 1763, was only eleven thousand. The
whites are said to be at present two hundred and twenty
thousand, and the slaves about one hundred and nineteen
thousand in the state.
In 1822, there were exported from the port of New Orleans,
one hundred and sixty-seven thousand seven hundred and
forty-two bales of cotton; and in this year, four hundred
and seventeen thousand four hundred and thirteen. In 1822,
twenty-six thousand two hundred and thirty-three hogsheads
of tobacco; and in this year, thirty-one thousand nine
hundred and thirty-three. Sugar and molasses, in 1829,
fifty-six thousand five hundred and sixty-six hogsheads,
and two thousand five hundred and eleven barrels of the
former, and twenty thousand nine hundred and forty hogsheads,
and eight thousand two hundred and forty-five barrels of
the latter. This season, fifty-two thousand one hundred and
forty-two hogsheads, and two thousand six hundred and fifty
barrels of sugar; and twenty-two thousand eight hundred
and seventy-two hogsheads, and fourteen thousand seven
hundred and ninety-four barrels of molasses. Commerce
will be facilitated by another canal from the city to lake
Pontchartrain, to be commenced next year; and I travelled
from the city to the lake, four miles on a rail-road, on
which there are now locomotive engines. The citizens seem
determined to avoid the one hundred and ten miles of river
navigation.
At New Orleans, in the gay season, they have very pleasant,
though expensive amusements, called ‘Bals de Bouquet,’ given
by the bachelors, but at the house of a lady. The _garcon_
who gives the dance, is distinguished by the title of king;
and his first care, when invested with the sovereignty, at
the beginning of the season, is to select among the ladies
of his acquaintance a queen to share his power, which he
delegates by crowning his fair partner with a wreath of
flowers. At her house, and in her name, is the ball then
given. After two or three quadrilles, the first queen rises
from her chair of state, and is conducted into the middle
of the room by the king, when gracefully raising a wreath
of flowers, which she bears in her hand, she places it on
the brow of a future king, (another bachelor of the party);
and he, after a low obeisance, having fixed upon his mate
in like manner, adorns her with the regalia of the bal
de bouquet. The new queen then accepts the proffered arm
of the king, the band plays a march, and followed by the
rest of the company, they polonoise round and round the
room. Dancing in its various branches succeeds; quadrilles,
Anglaises et Espagnoles are resumed with the greatest spirit,
and continued until after day breaks, when the first King
and queen cease to reign.
After an unusually hot and sultry day, the sun assuming at
the same time a greenish hue, and the streets in the evening,
as I walked home to my empty hotel, sending forth a most
disgusting effluvium; in the middle of the night I was awoke
by the noise of the doors and window’s violently agitated
by the wind; it increased to the hurricane roar, lulled, and
rose again, and blew with appalling force from the opposite
point of the compass, rain, at the same time, deluging the
city. Thus it continued all next day: the sea rushed into
lake Pontchartrain; behind the town it burst its banks, and
the city was under water, the levee only being dry. There
was no moving out of the house for many hours, and this led
me to believe that, one day this city, rapidly increasing
as it is in wealth and consequence, will be swept into the
gulf of Mexico, if the Mississippi happens to rise unusually
high at the annual inundation, and at the same time the
south-east wind raise the sea at its mouth and in the lakes.
More vessels were driven on shore in this hurricane; the
unburied dead were laid in their coffins in the grave-yard,
and floated about till the waters subsided to allow of their
being buried――the stench was horrible. Many houses were
unroofed, and almost all damaged in some way or other. Many
lives were lost; some boats and canoes upset in crossing the
river; and, as usual (whether it proceed from the alligators
or under current,) none who fall into the Mississippi at
New Orleans, are ever seen again; and, lastly, the huts of
several fishermen were swept off to sea, and the poor people
miserably perished.’――_Alexander’s Transatlantic Sketches._
65 – That the Americans, however, were not unmindful of the
respect paid to his remains by the British, appears from the
following part of the inscription upon the monument:
‘His bravery in action
Was only equalled by his modesty in triumph,
And his magnanimity to the vanquished.
In private life
He was a gentleman of the most generous and endearing
qualities;
And so acknowledged was his public worth,
That the whole nation mourned his loss,
And the enemy contended with his countrymen
Who most should honor his remains.’
There is a monument near it to the memory of General
Hamilton, who had served with distinction under Washington,
and ranked high as a statesman. He was killed in a duel by
Colonel Burr, the vice president of the United States.
The inscription is as follows:
To the memory of Alexander Hamilton
The corporation of Trinity church
Have erected this monument,
In testimony of their respect for
The patriot of incorruptible integrity,
The soldier of approved valor,
The statesman of consummate wisdom;
Whose talents and whose virtues
Will be admired by a grateful posterity
Long after this marble shall have mouldered into dust.
He died July 2d, 1804, aged forty-seven.
――_Subaltern’s Furlough._
66 – The new Mint appears to be a favorite place of resort for
the curious among our fellow citizens. Visitors pass in by
the Chesnut street front at all hours of the morning, and
are at once ushered into a beautiful and capacious building,
well adapted for the important purposes for which it was
erected. When we look round its ample dimensions, we wonder
how it was possible to accommodate so extensive a business
as was done in the miserably confined apartments of the old
coining house in Seventh street, and fail not, at the same
time, to admire the neat and simple beauty of the present
building. The first object which attracts attention on
entering, is a huge steam engine, at the opposite end of the
building, the noise of which, added to the incessant jarring
of the dies, gives token of the laborious purpose to which
it is applied. This engine, of thirty horse power, is the
most highly-finished specimen of the steam engine we have
ever witnessed. The shafts, upright and horizontal, are of
polished metal, and most of the cogwheels are of brass. The
huge fly-wheels run with the precision of a watch-wheel,
while the various and totally different purposes to which
its power is applied, strike the beholder with admiration
of the skill and ingenuity of the machinist. Rush and
Muhlenburg, of this city, constructed this engine; its cost
was about eight thousand dollars.
From the hot rooms in which the bullion is converted into
ingots, we entered the rooms where the ingots are passed
through a succession of steel rollers, until they assume
the flatness and thinness of a common iron hoop. Thence
we ascended into a room where these thin bars are passed
through a steel guage, to give them a uniform thickness,
equal to that of the half-dollar. A punch, worked by the
same engine, cuts out the silver of a proper size; the
scraps of silver are melted over again into ingots. From
this room the prepared bits are taken down into the die
room, where they are passed on their edges, through a machine
which gives them the impression they bear upon the edge.
They are thence handed over to the coiners, by whom they are
placed in a tube, in a pile a foot high, whence they drop
one at a time, on a slide which conveys them directly to
the dies. Here they receive the proper impression on each
side, from dies forced together by means of an iron bar
ten or twelve feet long, worked horizontally by three men.
The instant the coin receives its proper impression, it
is forced off the die into a box ready to receive it, and
gives place to another, which immediately occupies the same
position, and undergoes the same operation.
After having gone through the whole establishment, the
impression left upon the mind is that of astonishment
and wonder, that an end of such immense importance as the
supply of coin for a whole nation, can be attained by means,
apparently, so simple, and of such ready comprehension.
The spectator, going through alone, needs no one to explain
this or that operation. Every thing explains itself on the
instant; for every thing is free from mystery or concealment,
while the excellent condition of the establishment, and the
extreme politeness to strangers, manifested by every person
about it materially enhances the pleasure of a visit to the
Mint of the United States.――_Philadelphia paper._
67 – We reached Rochester under the influence of a burning sun.
The hotel was excellent, and the luxury of cold baths, and
the civility of the landlord, induced me to delay progress
to the following day. In the cool of the evening, I strolled
out to see the falls of the Gennessee. The height of the
uppermost is considerable, being about ninety feet, and the
water rushes over it gracefully enough; but the vicinity
of sundry saw and corn mills has destroyed the romantic
interest which invested it in the days when ‘the cataract
blew his trumpet from the steep,’ amid the stillness of the
surrounding forest.
The old proverb _de gustibus_, &c. receives illustration in
every country. An eccentric man, called Sam Patch, having an
aversion to honest industry, made it his profession to jump
over all the water-falls in the country. Niagara was too
much for him, but he sprang from a lofty rock, some distance
below the Horse-shoe fall, with impunity. His last jump
was at the fall I have just described, of the Gennessee, in
the autumn of 1829. From a scaffold, elevated twenty-five
feet above the table rock, making a descent altogether of a
hundred and twenty-five feet, he fearlessly plunged into the
boiling caldron beneath. From the moment of his immersion,
he was seen no more. His body was not discovered for many
months, and was at length found at the mouth of the river,
six miles below.
Rochester is a place worth seeing. Thirty years ago there
was not a house in the neighborhood, and now there is a
town, containing twenty thousand good Americans and true,
with churches, banks, theatres, and all other oppidan
appurtenances to match. Such growth is more like forcing in
a hot-bed, than the natural progress of human vegetation.
For a great deal of its prosperity, Rochester is indebted
to the Erie canal, which brought its advantageous proximity
to lake Ontario into full play. The canal runs through the
centre of the town, and crosses the Gennessee by an aqueduct,
which, according to the Northern Tourist, ‘cost rising
of eighty thousand dollars,’ whatever sum that may amount
to. There are several streets in Rochester which might be
backed at reasonable odds against any in Hull or Newcastle,
to say nothing of Cork, Falmouth, or Berwick-upon-Tweed.
The appearance of the shops indicates the prevalence of
respectable opulence. Those of the jewellers display a stock
of Paris trinkets and silver snuff-boxes. There are silks
and Leghorn bonnets for the seduction of the ladies, and
the windows of the tailors are adorned by colored prints of
gentlemen in tight-fitting swallow-tails, with the epigraph,
‘New York fashions for May.’――_Men and Manners in America._
68 – A recent traveller, who entertains no great partiality for
the institutions of our country, but whose volume is well
written, and entertaining, makes the following observations
on the society of our metropolis:
Washington is, undoubtedly, the gayest place in the union;
and must, I should imagine, be the very paradise of hackney
coachmen. If these gentlemen do not get rich, it must be
owing to some culpable extravagance, for their vehicles are
in continual demand from the hour of dinner till five in
the morning, and long distances and heavy charges are all in
their favor. Washington, too, is the only place in the union
where people consider it necessary to be agreeable; where
pleasing, as in the old world, becomes a sort of business,
and the enjoyments of social intercourse enter into the
habitual calculations of every one.
The reason of this is obvious enough. The duties of
legislation bring together a large body of gentlemen from
all quarters of the union, whose time in the morning is
generally passed in the capitol; but who, without the
_delassements_ of dinner parties and balls, would find their
evening hours a burden somewhat difficult to dispose of.
Idle men are always pleasant; they feel the necessity of
being so, and make it their occupation, when they have no
other. Your lawyer, or your merchant, on the other hand,
is so engrossed by weightier matters, that he has no time
to cultivate the graces of life, or those thousand arts
of courtesy which contribute so materially to enhance the
enjoyments of society. The experience of the world is in
favor of the assertion, that it is impossible to excel both
in pleasure and business. A man of talent may select the
sphere of his ambition, the bar, the pulpit, the exchange,
the senate, or the drawing-room; but to attempt the honors
of a double triumph is, in general, to secure but duplicity
of failure.
In Washington, all are idle enough to be as agreeable as
they can. The business of congress is no great burden on the
shoulders of any of its members; and a trip to Washington is
generally regarded as a sort of annual _lark_, which enables
a man to pass the winter months more pleasantly than in
the country. A considerable number of the members bring
their families, with a view of obtaining introduction to
better society than they can hope to meet elsewhere; but
the majority leave such incumbrances at home; some, it may
be presumed, from taste, and others from economy.
There are few families that make Washington their permanent
residence, and the city, therefore, has rather the aspect
of a watering place, than the metropolis of a great nation.
The members of congress generally live together in small
boarding-houses, which, from all I saw of them, are shabby
and uncomfortable. Gentlemen with families take lodgings, or
occupy apartments in a hotel; and it is really marvellous,
at the Washington parties, to see how many people are
contrived to be stowed away in a drawing-room, somewhat
smaller than an ordinary-sized pigeon-house. On such
occasions, one does not suffer so much from heat as from
suffocation; for not only does the whole atmosphere become
tainted in quality, but there seems an absolute deficiency
in quantity for the pulmonary demands of the company.
69 – Encyclopedia Americana.
70 – Mr. Stuart, during his residence in the United States,
appears to have made particular inquiries in respect to its
agriculture and horticulture. The following paragraph, in
which a comparison is drawn between the productions of our
gardens and those of Great Britain, is interesting:――
The farms in the neighborhood of New-York are all cultivated;
but having been long accustomed to the plough, and the
soil very different from that of Illinois, the application
of manure is indispensably necessary. The contiguity to
New-York insures tolerable prices for green crops, and a
great part of the land is devoted to them. Even the Lima bean
is cultivated in the field. The varieties of the bean in an
American garden last during great part of the summer; but
the heat of the sun is too great for green peas after the
first or second crop. Neither do artichokes thrive well, nor
cauliflowers, nor broccoli; but the tomato is excellent and
abundant, and pumpkins and vegetable marrow are plentiful.
Asparagus, too, is often cultivated on the field in Long
Island, and is nowhere of better quality. It is sometimes
sold in the New York market at two pence sterling per
hundred. Upon the whole, I think the vegetables for the
table in Great Britain are fully equal in variety and
quality to those in the United States; but they are much
higher in price. A great distinction is to be drawn between
the two countries respecting the article _fruit_. The
Americans have peaches, melons, apples, strawberries, and
cherries, all of excellent quality, and in such abundance,
that there is not a single individual in the whole country,
even the very shoe-black, whose funds do not enable him
to have as much of these fruits as he likes at the proper
season. There are also abundance of walnuts, and of
various sorts of nuts for every body. In many places,
but not universally, there are plums, pears, and grapes.
The plums, so far as have seen them, are not equal to
the English,――the pears, especially the sickle pear of
Pennsylvania, excellent,――the grapes quite inferior to those
in the open air in France, or in the south of England; but
the great difference between the countries exists in the
abundance of the first-mentioned fruits for the whole mass
of the people. Peaches are raised on standard trees only,
and, though universally good, are not superior in flavor to
those raised on garden walls, or in hot-houses in England.
They are reckoned better at Philadelphia than anywhere else.
Melons are considered best-flavored in Virginia and the
Carolinas; but they are so plentiful in New York, that there
is hardly a laborer who does not partake of a watermelon
every day during the hot season. Apples are as good in
the neighborhood of New York as anywhere. Apricots, and
nectarines, and figs, are hardly ever seen. It is therefore
clear, that a man of wealth may obtain greater variety of
fine fruit in England than in the United States, the melon
and apple alone being inferior to the melons and apples in
America; but all in this country have plenty of excellent
fruit.
71 – For this chapter we have been altogether indebted to the
excellent Address before the American Institute of New
York, by the Honorable Edward Everett. For a variety of
interesting statistical matter on Manufactures, see the
tables at the end of the volume.
72 – For further information and details in respect to the
commerce of the United States, see the tabular views and
summaries at the end of the volume.
73 – On the thirtieth of December, 1826, it had swelled to one
million, five hundred and thirty-four thousand.
74 – The following extract from the Lowell Journal possesses
sufficient interest to entitle it to preservation.
‘The excavation which is now about being made in a hill in
this town for the bed of the contemplated rail-way, may be
considered, next to the various manufacturing establishments,
the most wonderful “lion” of the place. This hill is near
the _terminus_ of the rail-way, in the neighborhood of the
brewery, but not in a populous part of the town. It consists
of a _ledge_ of rock, which is about three hundred yards
in length, and the average depth of the excavation is about
forty feet. It is thirty feet wide at the bottom, and sixty
at the top, and the masses of stone which have already been
riven from the ledge by blasting, seem to be immense.
‘A contract was originally made with a person to effect
a sufficient passage through this hill, for the sum of
seventy-two thousand dollars. He commenced the undertaking,
employed sixty workmen for about four months, _and failed_.
Another person then undertook to finish the work for the
same amount; but after a few months, he also abandoned
the undertaking. Those individuals are said to have both
been acquainted with the nature of the business which they
undertook, but they were deceived by the quality of the
rock, which consists principally of gneiss and mica, through
which, although much lighter and softer than limestone or
granite, it was found much more difficult and expensive to
effect a passage, than if it was composed of those more solid
materials. The _drilling_ may not be so difficult; but the
rocks, lying in numerous horizontal strata, almost defy the
power of gunpowder, and heavy blasts, which would shiver
an immense mass of granite, are frequently found here to
produce but little effect. In addition to this, the ledge
is found to be full of springs of water, which sometimes
render it necessary for the workmen to expend much time,
and exercise no inconsiderable ingenuity, in counteracting
its effects. There are also found in the lower part of the
ledge, huge masses of quartz, and a species of rock composed
almost entirely of hornblende, which is, of course, almost
impenetrable to the drill.
‘The Locks and Canal company have now undertaken to complete
this work, at the expense of the Rail-road company. About
seventy men are constantly employed, and the work advances
as rapidly as the attending circumstances will allow. Seven
hundred kegs of powder have been used in blasting, since the
latter part of April, when the work was recommenced.’
75 – In addition to the above, the following Rail-road companies
were incorporated at the session of the New York legislature
in 1832.
Name. Capital.
Lake Champlain and Ogdensburgh $3,000,000
Watertown and Rome 1,000,000
Utica and Susquehanna, (from Utica
to the New York and Erie rail-road) 1,000,000
Black river, (from the Erie canal, at
Rome or Herkimer, to the
St. Lawrence) 900,000
Ithaca and Geneva 800,000
Buffalo and Erie 650,000
Dutchess, (from Poughkeepsie to
Connecticut line) 600,000
Tonawanda, (from Rochester to Attica) 500,000
Hudson and Berkshire, (from Hudson to
Massachusetts line) 350,000
Schoharie and Otsego, (from the
Catskill and Canajoharie rail-road
to the Susquehanna river) 300,000
Dansville and Rochester 300,000
Aurora and Buffalo 300,000
Rensselaer and Saratoga 300,000
Brooklyn and Jamaica 300,000
Fish-house and Amsterdam 250,000
Warren county, (from Glen’s Falls to
Caldwell) 250,000
Saratoga and Fort Edward 200,000
Otsego, (from Cooperstown to
Collierville) 200,000
Albion and Tonawanda 200,000
Auburn and Erie canal 150,000
Mayville and Portland 150,000
Elvira and Williamsport 75,000
76 – The following account of a visit to the Point of Rocks,
along the track of the rail-road from Baltimore to that
place, a distance of seventy-three miles, is interesting,
and may be not improperly introduced in this connection. It
is taken from the Baltimore American of June, 1832.
‘In the middle of the merry month of May, the governor of
Maryland, president of the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road
company, several of the directors and other gentlemen,
visited the Point of Rocks in one of the rail-road cars.
The road is so well known from Baltimore to Ellicott’s mill
that it requires no description, further than that point
has become a very desirable retreat, both on account of the
wild magnificence of the surrounding scenery and the elegant
accommodations of the hotel. From thence to the Monocacy, it
leads along the margin of the Patapsco river and Bush creek,
through a woody region rarely intersected by some cultivated
spots, and improvements indicating much comfort. The viaduct
across the Monocacy is a light, airy and tasteful structure,
reflecting great credit on the architect, and of sufficient
solidity to insure its safety and duration. From that point
is a view of the bridge below, the mountains six miles
distant, and a short distance up and down the river. Here
the branch road leading to Frederick leaves the continuous
line which proceeds through a finely cultivated champaign
country for eleven miles to the Potomac. I formed one of
the party, and as every spot at the Point and the opposite
shore was familiar to me, I enjoyed a satisfaction, mingled
with some pleasing, melancholy recollections of former days,
which was not felt by others, although I believe that every
one was highly gratified with the trip, which took up about
twelve hours, allowing time to breakfast at the Mills, dine
at Frederick, and an hour to examine the long-contested
Point, which rises in almost a perpendicular line from the
river, to the height of three or four hundred feet, on the
top of which is an Indian barrow where lay mouldering the
bones of some mighty Tecumsehs or valiant Little Turtles,
commingled with the arrows which probably have often been
dyed in the blood of many a noble tawny Hector or implacable
Achilles. Here the soaring eagle and boding raven have
immemorably pitched their eyries in social proximity, and
looked down upon the humble fish hawk perched upon a jutting
rock, or hovering with equal poise over his finny prey,
and from which there is a view of Harper’s Ferry, the Blue
ridge and Washington’s beloved river, studded with isles,
for several miles. The stillness of the scene is often broken
by the refreshing murmurs of Hook’s falls. Instead of the
low cabin under the pendant rock where I have often felt
the genial warmth of a blazing fire while waiting for the
ferry boat, there is now rising, as if by magic, the town
of Port Johnson. Already there are several houses, shops and
warehouses finished and occupied, and a large tavern nearly
completed on the rail-road, which will enable visiters to
spend time enough to enjoy all the beauties of the prospect
and a cheerful repast.
‘The distance from Baltimore is seventy miles, and may
be travelled going and returning in less than twenty-four
hours. But if the eye is delighted, and the senses gratified
with the objects on the Maryland side, they will be doubly
increased by passing to the other shore, where a tavern
and ferry house are erecting directly opposite the point
where the boats land. Immediately in the rear of the ferry
house, is a tunnel cut out of the solid rock three hundred
yards, at the base of the mountain; half a mile farther the
most extensive beds of excellent iron ore and a favorable
appearance of bituminous coal. The tunnel was made to let
the waters of Catoctin creek into a run which supplied
a furnace, saw and extensive merchant mills, destroyed
some years ago by fire. If the view charms from the Indian
barrows, it almost enraptures from the Virginia promontory,
which rises several hundred feet above it, looking down, as
it were, upon the little hillock of its Maryland neighbor.
The summit is gained by a circuitous road from the river,
about a mile in length, where immediately bursts upon the
eye the most beautiful and extensive prospect in the country.
On the one side you behold Harper’s Ferry gap, at twelve
miles distance, the whole valley of the Blue ridge as far
as vision can extend, on either side of the river the rich
settlements of the Maryland tract, the Friends, German
and Tunkerville districts, and the Blue ridge mountains.
The whole of these tracts are in the highest state of
cultivation, and from the height you occupy, appear like
large and beauteous gardens, irrigated with perennial
streams and adorned with tasty summer houses. On the other
side are seen the rich Loudon lands, the town of Leesburg,
the lofty Sugar-Loaf Peak in Maryland, and the verdant
fields of Carrollton manor, and from one point, the Potomac
for miles up and down, with its numerous islands, gentle
falls and smooth bosom. On both sides of the river at the
point will arrive in boats and wagons, hundreds of thousands
of barrels of flour, large quantities of lumber, iron, coal
and other productions for transportation on the rail-road.
A new energy will be imparted to the enterprising and
industrious population of both states by the choice of
markets at the district and Baltimore, and the facilities
of transportation. If, as Mr. Jefferson says, the view at
Harper’s Ferry is worth a voyage across the Atlantic, surely
that from the Virginia summit is worth a ride from Baltimore,
Philadelphia, New York, or even the cradle city of
independence.’