CHAPTER XXVII.

EDUCATION AND KNOWLEDGE IN THE PAPAL STATES.

Education of a Roman Boy--Seldom taught his Letters--Majority of

Romans unable to Read--Popular Literature of Italy--- Newspaper of

the Roman States--Censorship of the Press--Studies in the Collegio

Romano--Rome unknown at Rome--Schools spring up under the

Republic--Extinguished on the Return of the Pope--Conversation with

three Roman Boys--Their Ideas respecting the Creator of the World,

Christ, the Virgin--Questions asked at them in the

Confessional--Religion in the Roman States--Has no

Existence--Ceremony mistaken for Devotion--Irreverence--The Six

Commands of the Church--Contrast betwixt the Cost and the Fruits of

the Papal Religion--Popular Hatred of the Papacy.

The influence of Romanism on trade, and industry, and justice, has been

less frequently a theme of discussion than its influence on knowledge.

While, therefore, I have dwelt at considerable length on the former, I

shall be very brief under the present head. I shall here adduce only a

few facts which I had occasion to see or hear during my stay in the

Papal States. The few schoolmasters which are found in Italy are not a

distinct class, as with us; they are priests, and mostly Jesuits. There

are three classes of catechisms used in the schools; the pupil beginning

with the lowest, and of course finishing off with the highest. But of

what subjects do these catechisms treat? A little history, one would

say, that the pupil may have some notion of what has been before him;

and a little geography, that he may know there are such things as land

and sea, and cities beyond, which he cannot see, shut up in Rome. With

us, the lowest amount of education that ever receives the name comprises

at least the three R's, as they are termed,--Reading, Writing, and

'Rithmetic. But these are far too mundane matters for a Jesuit to occupy

his time in expounding. The education of the Italian youth is a

thoroughly religious one, taking the term in its Roman sense. The little

catechisms I have spoken of are filled with the weightier matters of

their law,--the miracles wrought by the staff of this saint, the cloak

of that other, and the relics of a third; the exalted rank of the

Virgin, and the homage thereto appertaining; Transubstantiation, with

all the uncouth and barbarous jargon of "substances" and "accidents" in

which that mystery is wrapped up. An initiation into these matters forms

the education of the Roman boy; and after he has been locked up in

school for a certain length of time, he is turned adrift, to begin the

usual aimless life of the Italian. It does not follow, because he has

been at school, that he can read. He is seldom taught his letters;

better not, lest in after life he should come in contact with books.

And, despite the vigilance of the censorship and the Index, bad books,

such as the Bible, are finding their way into the Roman States; and it

is better, therefore, not to entrust the people with the key of

knowledge; for nothing is so useless as knowledge under an infallible

Church. The matters which the Italian youth are taught they are taught

by rote. "Ignorance is the mother of devotion,"--a maxim sometimes

quoted with a sneer, but one which embodies a profound truth as regards

that kind of devotion which is prevalent at Rome.

I have seen estimates by Gavazzi and other Italians, of the proportion

who can read in the Roman States. It is somewhere about one in a

hundred. The reader will take the statement at what it is worth. I had

no means of testing its accuracy; but all my inquiries on the subject

led me to believe that the overwhelming majority cannot read. And where

is the use of learning one's letters in a land where there are no books;

and there are none that deserve the name in Rome. The book-stalls in

Italy are heaped with the veriest rubbish: the "Book of Dreams," "Rules

for Winning at the Lottery," "The Five Dolours of the Virgin," "Tracts

on the Miracles of the Saints," "Relations," professedly given by Christ

about his sufferings, and said to have been found in his sepulchre, and

in other places equally likely. At Rome, on the streets at least, where

all other kinds of rubbish are tolerated, even this rubbish is not

suffered to exist; for there, book-stalls I saw none. There are,

however, one or two miserable book-shops where these things may be had.

There was but one newspaper (so called, I presume, because it contained

no news) published in Rome at the time of my visit,--the _Giornale di

Roma_, which, I presume, still occupies the field alone. It contains a

daily list of the arrivals and departures (foreigners, of course, for

the gates of Rome never open to the Romans), the proclamations of the

Government, the days of the lottery, and such matters. Under the foreign

head were chronicled the consecration of Catholic temples, the visits of

royal personages, a profound silence being observed on all political

facts and speculations. And this is all the Romans can know, through

legitimate channels, of what is going on beyond the walls of Rome. A

daily paper was started during the Republic, and admirably managed; but,

of course, it was suppressed on the return of the Papal Government. A

few copies of the _Times_ reach Rome every morning. They are not given

out till towards mid-day, for they must first be read; and if the

"editorials" are not to the taste of the Sacred College, they are not

given out at all. The paper, during my short stay, was stopped for

nearly a week on end; and the disappointment was the greater, that

rumours were then current in Rome that something was on the tapis in

Paris, and that the change in the constitution of France, whatever it

might be, would not be postponed till the May of 1852, as was then

believed in the north of Europe, but would be attempted in the beginning

of December 1851. The tidings of the _coup d'etat_, which met me on the

morning of the 3d December in the south of France, brought the full

realization of these rumours. In the _Giornale di Roma_ not a strayed

dog can be advertised without permission of the censor. In Brescia there

is a censorship for gravestones; and in Rome a strict watch is kept over

the English burying-ground, lest any one should write a verse of

Scripture above a heretic's grave. The expression of thought is more

dreaded than brigandage.

Those who aspire to the learned professions go to the Collegio Romano.

But let the reader mark how the Roman Church here, as everywhere else,

contrives to keep up the show of educating, and takes care all the while

to impart the smallest possible amount of knowledge,--constructs a

machinery which, through some mischievous perversion, is without

results. The Collegio Romano has a numerous staff of professors, who

prelect on theology, logic, history, mathematics, natural philosophy,

and other branches. This looks well; but observe its working. All the

lectures are delivered in Latin, which differs considerably from the

modern Italian; and as the Roman youth spend only one year in the study

of the Latin tongue before entering the Collegio Romano, the lectures

might nearly as well, so far as the run of the students is concerned, be

in Arabic. Nine-tenths of the young men leave the Collegio Romano as

learned as they entered it. The higher priesthood are educated at the

_Sapienza_, where, I believe, a thorough training in theological

dialectics is given.

It is impossible not to see that the Italians are a people of quick

perceptions, lively sensibilities, and warm and kindly dispositions; but

it is just as impossible not to see that they are deplorably untaught.

The stranger is mortified to find that he knows far more of their ruins

and of their past history than they themselves do. The peasant wanders

over the huge mounds that diversify the Seven Hills, or traverses the

Appian, or passes under the arch of Titus, without knowing or caring who

erected these structures, or having even a glimmering of the heroic

story in which they were, so to speak, the actors. When he looks back

into the past, all is night. Nowhere is Rome so little known as in Rome

itself. How different was it when the Pope received Italy! Then Italy

occupied the van of civilization. And when the Byzantine empire fell,

and the scholars of the East fled westward, carrying with them the rich

treasures of the Greek language and literature, learning had a second

morning in Italy. Famous colleges arose, to which the youth of Europe

repaired. Philosophers and poets of imperishable name shed a lustre upon

the country; but the Roman Church soon discovered that Italy was

acquiring knowledge at the expense of its Romanism, and she applied the

band to the national mind. And now that same Italy that once held aloft

the lamp of knowledge to the world is herself in darkness, and, sad

sight! is seen, with quenched orbs, groping about in the midnight.

And yet proofs are not wanting to show that, were the interdict of the

Church taken off, Italy would at once throw herself into the race, and

might soon rival the most successful of her contemporaries. Most of my

readers, I doubt not, are familiar with the name of M. Leone Levi, now

engaged on the great work of the codification of the commercial laws of

the three kingdoms, and their assimilation to the continental codes. The

fact I am now to state, and which speaks volumes as regards the efforts

of "the Church" to educate Italy, I had from this gentleman; and to

those who know him, any testimony of mine to his intelligence and

uprightness is superfluous. M. Leone Levi, an Italian Jew, was born at

Ancona, but eventually settled in England. During the Roman Republic, he

paid a visit to Italy. But such a change! He scarce knew his native

Italy,--it was so unlike the Italy he had left. In every town, and

village, and rural district, schools had sprung up since the fall of the

Pontifical Government. There were day-schools and night-schools,

week-day-schools and Sabbath-schools. The young men and young women had

forgotten their "light loves," and were busied in educating themselves,

and in educating the little boys and girls below them. The country

appeared to have resolved itself into a great educational institute. He

was inexpressibly delighted. Such a change he had never dared to hope

for in his native land. But ah! back came the Pope; and in a week,--in

one short week,--every one of these schools was closed. The Roman youth

are again handed over to the Jesuit. Italy is again sunk in its old

torpor and stagnation; and one black cloud of barbaric ignorance extends

from the Mediterranean to the Adriatic.

I sat down one day on the steps of the temple of Vesta, which, though

gray and crumbling with age, is one of the most beautiful of the ruins

of Rome. Three boys came about me to beg a few baiocchi. The youngest

boy, I found, was ten years, and the oldest fifteen. I took the

opportunity of putting a few questions to them, judging them a fair

sample of the Roman youth. My queries were pitched low enough. "Can you

tell me," I asked, "who made the world?" The question started a subject

on which they seemed never to have thought before. They stood in a muse

for some seconds; and then all three looked round them, as if they

expected to see the world's Maker, or to read His name somewhere. At

last the youngest and smartest of the three spoke briskly up,--"The

masons, Signor." It was now my turn to feel the excitement of a new

idea. Yet I thought I could see the train of thought that led to the

answer. The masons had made the baths of Caracalla; the masons had made

the Coliseum, and those other stupendous structures which in bulk rival

the hills, and seem as eternal as the earth on which they rest; and why

might not the masons have made the whole affair? I might have puzzled

the boy by asking, "But who made the masons?" My object, however, was

simply to ascertain the amount of his knowledge. I demurred to the

proposition that the masons had made the world, and desired them to try

again. They did try again, and at last the eldest of the three found his

way to the right answer,--"God." "Have you ever heard of Christ?" I

asked. "Yes." "Who is he? Can you tell me anything about him?" I could

elicit nothing under these heads. "Whose Son is he?" I then asked. "He

is Mary's Son," was the reply. "Where is Christ?" I inquired. "He is on

the Cross," replied the boy, folding his arms, and making the

representation of a crucifix. "Was Christ ever on earth?" I asked. He

did not know. "Are you aware of anything he ever did?" He had never

heard of anything that Christ had done. I saw that he was thinking of

those hideous representations which are to be seen in all the churches

of Rome, of a man hanging on a cross. That was the Christ of the boys.

Of Christ the Son of the living God,--of Christ the Saviour of

sinners,--and of his death as an atonement for human guilt,--they had

never heard. In a city swarming with professed ministers of the gospel,

these boys knew no more of Christianity than if they had been

Hottentots. I next inquired respecting Mary, and here the boys seemed

more at home. "Who is she?" "She is God's mother." "Where is she?" "She

is in that church," pointing to the church on one side of the

piazza,--the Bocca di Verita, if I mistake not,--before which criminals

are sometimes executed; "and in that," pointing to the church on the

other side of the piazza. "She is here, there, everywhere." "Was Mary

ever on earth?" "Yes," was the answer. "What did she do when here?"

"Oh," replied the little boy, "that is an antique affair: I was not here

then." "Do you go to church?" I asked the eldest boy. "Yes." "Do you

take the sacrament?" "I have taken it four times." I learned afterwards

that the priests are attempting to seize upon the rising generation in

Italy, by compelling all the children from twelve years and upwards to

go to mass. "Do you go to confession?" I next asked. "Yes, I confess."

"Do other boys and girls, your acquaintances, go to confession?" "Yes,

all go," he replied. "We meet the priest in church on Sabbath, and he

tells us when to come and confess." "Well, when you go to confess, what

does the priest ask you?" "He asks me if I steal, and do other bad

actions." "When you confess that you have done a bad action, what then?"

"The first time I do it, the priest pardons me." "If you confess it a

second time, what happens?" "The second time he beats me with a rod."

"Does the priest ask you about anything else?" I inquired. "Yes," he

rejoined; "he asks me about my father and my mother." "What does he ask

you about them?" "He asks me if they do dirty actions," said the boy.

Now, here the enormity and vileness of the confessional peeped out. Here

one can see how the confessor can look into every hearth, and into every

heart, in Rome. The priests had dragged this young boy into their den,

and taught him to play the spy on his father and mother. The hand that

fed him, the bosom that cherished him, he must learn to betray. I appeal

to the fathers and mothers of Britain, whether, than see their children

degraded to such infamous purposes, they would not an hundred times

rather see them laid in the silent grave. Yet some are labouring to

introduce the confessional among us. Should they succeed, it will be the

garrotte on the throat of English liberty.

As regards RELIGION in Italy, this is an inquiry that lies rather beyond

the limits I have marked out for myself. I may be permitted, however, a

few remarks. It appeared to me that the very idea of religion had

perished among the Italians. Not only had they lost the thing itself,

but they had lost the power of conceiving of it. Religion unquestionably

is a state of mind towards God; and devotion is a mental act resulting

from that state of mind. We cannot conceive of an automaton performing

an act of devotion, or of being religious; and yet, if religion be what

it is taken to be at Rome, there is nothing to hinder an automaton being

religious, nay, far more religious than flesh and blood, inasmuch as

timber and iron will not so soon wear out under incessant crossings and

genuflections. Religion at Rome is to kiss a crucifix; religion at Rome

is to climb Pilate's stairs; religion at Rome is to repeat by rote a

certain number of prayers before some beautiful painting or statue; or

to remain a certain number of hours on one's bare knees on the paved

floor; or to wear a hair-shirt. Of religion as a mental act,--as an act

of faith, and love, and reverence,--the Italian is not able to form

even the idea. Hence the want of decorum that shocks a stranger on

visiting the Italian churches. He finds bishops at the altar unable to

restrain their sallies of wit and their bursts of laughter. And after

this, what can he look for among the ordinary worshippers? The young man

can go through his devotions perfectly well, and make love all the while

to the young woman at his side. Young ladies can count their beads to

the Virgin, and continue their gossip on matters of dress or scandal. It

never occurs to them that this in the least deteriorates their worship.

The beads have been counted, and an Ave Maria said with each; and what

more does the Church require? Religion as a feeling of the mind, and

devotion as an act of the soul, are unknown to them. I recollect meeting

in the rural lanes leading from St John Lateran to the church of Maria

Maggiore, a small party of Roman girls, who were strangely mixing mirth

and worship,--chatting, laughing, and singing hymns to the Virgin,--just

as Scotch maidens on a harvest field might diversify their labours with

"Home, Sweet Home," or any other air. This irreverent familiarity shows

itself in other ways, after the manner of the ancient pagans, who took

strange liberties with their gods. When the drawing of the lottery is

about to take place, the Romans most devoutly supplicate the Virgin for

success; but should their number come out a blank, they may be heard

reviling her in the open street, and applying to her every conceivable

epithet of abuse.

So far as the moral code of Romanism is concerned, sinless perfection is

no difficult attainment. The commands of the Church are six; and these

six have quite thrown into the shade the ten of the decalogue. They are

the payment of tithes,--the not marrying in the prohibited seasons,--the

hearing of mass on Sundays and festivals,--the keeping of the

prescribed fasts,--confession once a-year at least,--and the taking of

the communion in Easter week. The last two are strictly enforced. On the

approach of Easter, the priest goes round and gives a ticket to every

parishioner; and if these are not returned through the confessional, a

policeman waits on the person, and tells him that he has been remiss in

his religious duties, and must submit himself to the Church's

discipline, which he, the Church's officer, has come to administer to

him in the Church's penitentiary or dungeons. Innumerable are the

methods taken by the Romans to evade confession, among which the more

common is to hire some one to confess for them. Others, though they go,

confess nothing of moment. "You all here believe in the Pope and

purgatory," I remarked to a commissario one day. "A few old women do,"

he replied. "Do _you_ not believe in them?" I asked. "I believe in one

God; but I do not believe in one priest," said he. "I hope you will say

so next time you go to confession," I observed. "I don't confess," he

replied. "How can you avoid confessing?" I enquired. "I pay an old

woman," he answered, "who can confess for me every day if she pleases."

There is not a greater contrast in the world than that which exists

betwixt the cost of the papal religion and its fruits,--betwixt the

numbers and wealth of the clergy, and the knowledge and morality of the

people. Under these heads we append below some very instructive

notices.[8]

In fine, one word will suffice to describe the religion of Rome; and

that word is ATHEISM. There may be exceptions, but as a general rule

the Romans believe in nothing. And how can it be otherwise? Of the

gospel they know absolutely nothing beyond what the priest tells them;

even that he, the priest, can change a wafer into God, and, by giving it

to people to eat, can save them from hell. This the Romans cannot

believe; and therefore their creed is a negation. In the room of

indifference, which could not be said to believe or disbelieve, because

it never thought on the subject, has now come intense hatred of the

Papacy, from the destruction of the nation's hopes under Pio Nono. He

who seven years ago heard the streets of Rome echoing to the cry that

she alone was _La Regina delle Genti_,--"sat a queen, and should see no

sorrow,"--can best form an estimate of the terrible re-action that has

followed the tumult of that hour, and can best understand how it has

happened, that now the hatred wherewith the Italians hate the Papacy is

greater than the love wherewith they loved it. Tradition, by its

fooleries,--the mass, by its monstrosity,--the priest, by his

immoralities,--and, above all, the Pope, by his perfidy and

tyranny,--have made the papal religion to stink in the nostrils of the

great mass of the Roman people. You might as well look for religion in

pandemonium itself, as in a country groaning under such a complication

of vices and miseries. Nay, there is more faith in pandemonium than in

Rome; for we are told that the devils believe and tremble; but in Rome,

generally speaking, there is faith in nothing. And for this fearful

state of matters the Papacy, beyond all question, is responsible.

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