Personally I prefer the sugar and spice of Italian Opera. I know it is

an execrable taste, but as I am a most commonplace person I cannot help

myself. I have loved it since childhood, when the dull pages of my

Violin Tutor were lit by crystalline fragments of Cherubini and

Donizetti, and when the house in which I lived was chattering day and

night Italianate melody. One of my earliest recollections is of hearing,

as a tiny thing in petticoats, the tedious noises of the professional

musician, and the E A D G of the fiddle was the accompaniment to all my

games. From noon until seven in the evening I played amid the squeak of

the fiddle, the chant of the 'cello, the solemn throb of the double

bass, and the querulous wail of flute and piccolo; and always the music

was the music of Italy, for these elders worked in operatic orchestras.

So I learned to love it, and especially do I still love the

moderns--Leoncavallo, Wolf-Ferrari, Mascagni, Puccini--for it was in "La

Boheme" that I heard both Caruso and grand opera for the first time; and

whenever I now hear "Che gelida manina," even badly sung, I always want

to sit down and have a good cry. It reminds me of a pale office-boy of

fifteen, who had to hoard his pence for a fortnight and wait weary hours

at the gallery door of Covent Garden to hear Caruso, Scotti, Melba, and

Journet as the Bohemians. What nights! I remember very clearly that

first visit. I had heard other singers, English singers, the best of

whom are seldom better than the third-rate Italians, but Caruso.... What

is he? He is not a singer. He is not a voice. He is a miracle. There

will not be another Caruso for two or three hundred years; perhaps not

then. We had been so accustomed to the spurious, manufactured voices of

people like de Reszke and Tamagno and Maurel, that when the genuine

article was placed before us we hardly recognized it. Here was something

lovelier than anything that had yet been heard; yet we must needs stop

to carp because it was not quite proper. All traditions were smashed,

all laws violated, all rules ignored. Jean de Reszke would strain and

strain, until his audience suffered with him, in order to produce an

effect which this new singer of the South achieved with his hands in his

pockets, as he strolled round the stage.

The Opera in London is really more of a pageant than a musical function.

The front of the house frequently claims more attention than the stage.

On Caruso and Melba nights it blazes. Tiers and tiers of boxes race

round in a semicircle. If you are early, you see them as black gaping

mouths. But very soon they are filled. The stalls begin to leap with

light, for everybody who is not anybody, but would like to be somebody,

drags out everything she possesses in the way of personal adornment,

and sticks it on her person, so that all the world may wonder. At each

box is a bunch of lights, and, with the arrival of the silks and

jewellery, they are whipped to a thousand scintillations.

The blaze of dancing light becomes painful; the house, especially

upstairs, is spitefully hot. Then the orchestra begin to tumble in;

their gracefully gleaming lights are adjusted, and the monotonous A

surges over the house--the fiddles whine it, the golden horns softly

blare it, and the wood-wind plays with it.

But now there is a stir, a sudden outburst of clapping. Campanini is up.

Slowly the lights dissolve into themselves. There is a subdued rustle as

we settle ourselves. A few peremptory _Sh-sh-sh!_ from the ardent

galleryites.

Campanini taps. His baton rises ... and suddenly the band mumbles those

few swift bars that send the curtain rushing up on the garret scene.

Only a few bars ... yet so marvellous is Puccini's feeling for

atmosphere that with them he has given us all the bleak squalor of his

story. You feel a chill at your heart as you hear them, and before the

curtain rises you know that it must rise on something miserable and

outcast. The stage is in semi-darkness. The garret is low-pitched, with

a sloping roof ending abruptly in a window looking over Paris. There is

a stove, a table, two chairs, and a bed. Nothing more. Two people are

on. One stands at the window, looking, with a light air of challenge, at

Paris. Down stage, almost on the footlights, is an easel, at which an

artist sits. The artist is Scotti, the baritone, as Marcello. The

orchestra shudders with a few chords. The man at the window turns. He is

a dumpy little man in black wearing a golden wig. What a figure it is!

What a make-up! What a tousled-haired, down-at-heel, out-at-elbows

Clerkenwell exile! The yellow wig, the white-out moustache, the broken

collar.... But a few more brusque bars are tossed from Campanini's

baton, and the funny little man throws off, cursorily, over his

shoulder, a short passage explaining how cold he is. The house thrills.

That short passage, throbbing with tears and laughter, has rushed, like

a stream of molten gold, to the utmost reaches of the auditorium, and

not an ear that has not jumped for joy of it. For he is Rudolfo, the

poet; in private life, Enrico Caruso, Knight of the Order of San

Giovanni, Member of the Victorian Order, Cavalier of the Order of Santa

Maria, and many other things.

As the opera proceeds, so does the marvel grow. You think he can have

nothing more to give than he has just given; the next moment he deceives

you. Towards the end of the first Act, Melba enters. You hear her voice,

fragile and firm as fluted china, before she enters. Then comes the

wonderful love-duet--"Che gelida manina" for Caruso and "Mi chiamano

Mimi" for Melba. Gold swathed in velvet is his voice. Like all true

geniuses, he is prodigal of his powers; he flings his lyrical fury over

the house. He gives all, yet somehow conveys that thrilling suggestion

of great things in reserve. Again and again he recaptures his first fine

careless rapture. His voice dances forth like a little girl on a sunlit

road, wayward, captivating, never fatigued, leaping where others

stumble, tripping many miles, with fresh laughter and bright quick

blood. There never were such warmth and profusion and display. Not only

is it a voice of incomparable magnificence: it has that intangible

quality that smites you with its own mood: just the something that marks

the difference between an artist and a genius. There are those who sniff

at him. "No artist," they say; "look what he sings." They would like him

better if he were not popular; if he concerned himself, not with Puccini

and Leoncavallo, but with those pretentiously subtle triflers, Debussy

and his followers. Some people can never accept beauty unless it be

remote. But true beauty is never remote. The art which demands

transcendentalism for its appreciation stamps itself at once as

inferior. True art, like love, asks nothing, and gives everything. The

simplest people can understand and enjoy Puccini and Caruso and Melba,

because the simplest people are artists. And clearly, if beauty cannot

speak to us in our own language, and still retain its dignity, it is not

beauty at all.

Caruso speaks to us of the little things we know, but he speaks with a

lyric ecstasy. Ecstasy is a horrible word; it sounds like something to

do with algebra; but it is the one word for this voice. The passion of

him has at times almost frightened me. I remember hearing him at the

first performance of "Madame Butterfly," and he hurt us. He worked up

the love-duet with Butterfly at the close of the first act in such

fashion that our hands were wrung, we were perspiring, and I at least

was near to fainting. Such fury, such volume of liquid sound could not

go on, we felt. But it did. He carried a terrific crescendo passage as

lightly as a school-girl singing a lullaby, and ended on a tremendous

note which he sustained for sixty seconds. As the curtain fell we

dropped back in our seats, limp, dishevelled, and pale. It was we who

were exhausted. Caruso trotted on, bright, alert, smiling, and not the

slightest trace of fatigue did he show.

It seems to have been a superb stroke of fortune for us that Caruso

should have come along contemporaneously with Puccini. Puccini has never

definitely written an opera for his friend; yet, to hear him sing them,

you might think that every one had been specially made for him alone.

Their temperaments are marvellously matched. Each is Italian and

Southern to the bone. Whatever Caruso may be singing, whether it be

Mozart or Gounod or Massenet or Weber, he is really singing Italy.

Whatever setting Puccini may take for his operas, be it Japan, or Paris,

or the American West, his music is never anything but Italian.

And I would not have it otherwise. It may offend some artistic

consciences that Butterfly, the Japanese courtesan, should sob out her

lament in music which is purely Italian in character and colour; but

what a piece of melody it is!

Puccini's is a still small voice; very pleading, very conscious of

itself and of the pathos of our little span of living; but the

wistfulness of its appeal is almost heartbreaking. He can never, I

suppose, stand among the great composers; dwarfed he must always be

against Mozart or Weber, or even Verdi. But he has done what all wise

men must do: he has discovered the one thing he can perform well, and he

is performing it very well indeed. His genius is slim and miniature, but

he handles it as an artist. There is no man living who can achieve such

effects with so slender material. There is no man living who can so give

you, in a few bars, the soul of the little street-girl; no man living

who can so give you flavour of a mood, or make you smell so sharply the

atmosphere of a public street, a garret, a ballroom, or a prairie. And

he always succeeds because he is always sincere. A bigger man might put

his tongue in his cheek and sit down to produce something like "La

Boheme," and fail miserably, simply because he didn't mean it.

When Puccini has something to say, though it may be nothing profound or

illuminating, he says it; and he can say the trite thing more freshly,

with more delicacy, and in more haunting tones, than any other musician.

His vocabulary is as marvellous as his facility in orchestration and in

the development of a theme. He gets himself into tangles from which

there seems no possible escape, only to extricate himself with the

airiest of touches. Never does his fertility of melodic invention fail

him. He is as prodigal in this respect as Caruso in his moments. Where

others achieve a beautiful phrase, and rest on it, Puccini never idles;

he has others and others, and he crowds them upon you until the ear is

surfeited with sweetness, and you can but sit and marvel.

There it is. Sniff at it as you will, it is a great art that captures

you against your reason, and when Puccini and Caruso join forces, they

can shake the soul out of the most rabid of musical purists. What they

do to commonplace people like myself is untellable. I have tried to hint

at it in these few remarks, but really I have told you nothing ...

nothing.

* * * * *

I am not over-fond of the Promenade Concerts. You have, of course,

everything of the best--the finest music of the world, the finest

English orchestra, and a neat little concert-hall; but somehow there is

that about it that suggests Education. I have a feeling that Sir Henry

is taking me by the hand, training me up in the way I should, musically,

go. And I hate being trained. I don't want things explained to me. The

programme looks rather like "Music without Tears" or "First Steps for

the Little Ones." I know perfectly well what Wagner meant by the

"Tannhaeuser" overture, and what Beethoven wants to say to me in the

Ninth Symphony. I don't want these things pointed out to me, and

sandwiched between information as to when the composer was born, how

long he lived, and how many hundred works he wrote. However, all that

apart, the Promenades are an institution which we should cherish. For a

shilling you can lean against the wall of the area, and smoke, and take

your fill of the best in music. If there is anything that doesn't

interest you, you can visit the bar until it is concluded. The audience

on the Promenade is as interesting as the programme. All types are to be

found here--the serious and hard-up student, the musically inclined

working-man, probably a member of some musical society in his suburb,

the young clerk, the middle-aged man, and a few people who KNOW.

The orchestra is well set, and its pendant crimson lamps and fernery

make a solemn picture in the soft light. The vocalists and soloists are

not, usually, of outstanding merit, but they sing and play agreeably,

and, even if they attempt more than their powers justify them in doing,

they never distress you. Sir Henry Wood's entrance on the opening night

of any season is an impressive affair. As each known member of the

orchestra comes in, he receives an ovation; but ovation is a poor

descriptive for Sir Henry's reception. There is no doubt that he has

done more for music in England than any other man, and his audiences

know this; they regard him almost as a friend.

He is an artist in the matter of programmes. He builds them as a chef

builds up an elaborate banquet, by the blending of many flavours and

essences, each item a subtle, unmarked progression on its predecessor.

He is very fond of his Russians, and his readings of Tchaikowsky seem to

me the most beautiful work he does. I do not love Tchaikowsky, but he

draws me by, I suppose, the attraction of repulsion. The muse who guides

the dreamings of the Russian artist is a sombre and heavy-lidded lady,

but most sombre, I think, when she moves in the brain of the musician.

Then she wears the glooms and sables of the hypochondriac. She does not

"nerve us with incessant affirmations." Rather, she enervates us with

incessant dubitations. It is more than a relief to leave the crowded

Promenade, after a Tchaikowsky symphony, to stroll in the dusky glitter

of Langham Place, and return to listen the clear, cool tones of Mozart,

as sparkling and as gracious as a May morning! Next to Tchaikowsky, Sir

Henry gives us much of Wagner and Beethoven and Mendelssohn. I can never

understand why Mendelssohn is played nowadays. His music always seems to

me to be so provincial and gentlemanly and underbred as to remind one of

a county ball. I am sure he always composed in a frock-coat, silk hat,

and lavender gloves. When he is being played, many of us have to rush

away and saunter in the foyer.

Usually the programme contains some examples of modern French music (a

delicate horror by Ravel, perhaps) and of the early Italians. You will

get something sweet and suave and restful by Palestrina or Handel, and

conclude, perhaps, with a tempest of Berlioz.

During the season of the Promenades, there are also excellent concerts

going on in the lost districts of London. There is, to begin with, the

Grand Opera season at the Old Vic. in Waterloo Road, where you can get a

box for one-and-sixpence, and a seat in the gallery for twopence. The

orchestra is good, and the singers are satisfactory. The operas include

"Daughter of the Regiment," and run through Verdi and some of Wagner to

Mascagni and Charpentier. The audience is mostly drawn from the

surrounding streets, the New Cut and Lower Marsh. It wears its working

clothes, and it smokes cut Cavendish; but there is not a whisper from

the first bar of the overture to the curtain. The chorus is drawn from

the local clubs, and a very live and intelligent chorus it is. Then

there are the Saturday evening concerts at the People's Palace in

Whitechapel, at the Surrey Masonic Hall, in Camberwell, at Cambridge

House, and at Vincent Square. In each case the programme is distinctly

classical. It is only popular in the sense that the prices are small and

the performers' services are honorary. Many a time have I attended one

of these concerts, because I knew I should hear there some old, but

obscure, classic that I should never be likely to hear at any of the

West End concert-halls.

These West End halls are unhappily situated. The dismal Bond Street

holds one, another stands cheek by jowl with Marlborough Police Court,

and the other two are stuck deep in the melancholic greyness of Wigmore

Street. All are absurdly inaccessible. However, when it is a case of

Paderewski or Hambourg or Backhaus or Ysayt, people will make

pilgrimages to the end of the earth ... or to Wigmore Street. It was at

the Bechstein, on a stifling June evening, that I first heard that

mischievous angel, Vladimir de Pachmann.

We had dined solidly, with old English ale, at "The Cock," in Fleet

Street. Perhaps tomato soup, mutton cutlets, quarts of bitter, apple

and blackberry tart and cream, macaroni cheese, coffee, and kuemmel are

hardly in the right key for an evening with Chopin. But I am not one of

those who take their pleasures sadly. If I am to appreciate delicate

art, I must be physically well prepared. It may be picturesque to sit

through a Bayreuth Festival on three dates and a nut, but monkey-tricks

of that kind are really a slight on one's host. However, I felt very

fat, physically, and very Maeterlinckian, spiritually, as we clambered

into a cab and swung up the great bleak space of Kingsway.

At the entrance to the Steinway we ran against a bunch of critics, and

adjourned to the little place at the opposite corner, so that one of the

critics might learn from us what he ought to say about the concert. We

had just time to slip into our seats, and then Pachmann, sleek and

bullet-headed, minced on to the platform. I said that I felt fat,

physically, and Maeterlinckian or Burne-Jonesy, or anything else that

suggests the twilight mood, spiritually. But the moment Pachmann came on

he drove the mood clean out of us. Obviously, _he_ wasn't feeling

Maeterlinckian or Chopinesque. He was feeling very full of Pachmann, one

could see. Nothing die-away or poetic about him. He was fat physically,

and he looked fat spiritually. One conceived him much more readily

nodding over the fire with the old port, than playing Chopin in a bleak

concert-hall, laden with solemn purples and drabs, stark and ungarnished

save for a few cold flowers and ferns.

However, there he was; and after he had played games and cracked jokes,

of which nobody knew the secrets but himself, with the piano-stool, his

hair, and his handkerchief, he set to work. He flourished a few scales;

looked up; giggled; said something to the front row; looked off and

nodded; rubbed his fingers; gently patted his ashen cheek; then

stretched both hands to the keys.

He played first a group of Preludes. What is there to say about him?

Nothing. Surely never, since Chopin went from us, has Chopin been so

played. The memory of my Fleet Street dinner vanished. The hall

vanished. All surroundings vanished. Vladimir, the antic, took us by the

hand and led us forth into a new country: a country like nothing that we

have seen or dreamed of, and therefore a country of which not the

vaguest image can be created. It was a country, or, perhaps, a street of

pale shadows ... and that is all I know. Its name is Pachmann-land.

Before he was through the first short prelude, he had us in his snare.

One by one the details of the room faded, and nothing was left but a

cloud of lilac in which were Pachmann and the sleek, gleaming piano. As

he played, change succeeded change. The piano was labelled Chappell, but

it might just as well have been labelled Bill Bailey. Under Pachmann,

the wooden structure took life, as it were, and became a living thing,

breathing, murmuring, clamouring, shrieking. Soon there was neither

Chappell, nor Pachmann, nor Chopin; only a black creature--Piano. One

shivered, and felt curiously afraid.

Then, suddenly, there was a crash of chords--and silence. That crash had

shattered everything, and, looking up, we saw nothing but the grinning

Pachmann. One half-remembered that he had been grinning and gesturing

and grimacing with ape-like imbecility all the time, yet, somehow, one

had not noticed it. He bobbed up and down, and grinned, and applauded

himself. But there was something uncanny, mysterious. We looked at one

another uneasily, afraid to exchange glances. Nobody spoke. Nobody

wanted to speak. A few smiled shy, secret smiles, half-afraid of

themselves. For some moments nobody even applauded. Something had been

with us. Something strange and sad and exquisitely fragile had gone from

us.

Pachmann looked at us, noted our dumb wonder, and--giggled like an

idiot.

A JEWISH NIGHT

WHITECHAPEL

_LONDON ROSES_

_When the young year woos all the world to flower

With gold and silver of sun and shower,

The girls troop out with an elfin clamour,

Delicate bundles of lace and light.

And London is laughter and youth and playtime,

Fair as the million-blossomed may-time:

All her ways are afire with glamour,

With dainty damosels pink and white._

_The weariest streets new joys discover;

The sweet glad girl and the lyric lover

Sing their hearts to the moment's flying,

Never a thought to time or tears.

O frivolous frocks! O fragrant faces,

Scattering blooms in the gloomy places!

Shatter and scatter our sombre sighing,

And lead us back to the golden years!_

A JEWISH NIGHT

WHITECHAPEL

Whitechapel exists under false pretences. It has no right to its name,

for the word Whitechapel arouses grim fears in the minds of those who

know it not. Its reputation is as theatrically artificial as that of the

New York Bowery. Its poverty and its tradition of lawlessness are

sedulously fostered by itself for the benefit of the simple-minded

slummer.

To-day it is, next to St. John's Wood, the most drably respectable

quarter of the town. This is explained by the fact that it is the

Ghetto: the home of the severely moral Jew. There is no disorder in

Whitechapel. There is no pillage or rapine or bashing. The colony leads

its own pleasant life, among its own people, interfering with none and

desiring intercourse with none. It has its own manners and customs and

its own simple and very beautiful ceremonies. The Jews in London are

much scattered. They live in various quarters, according to the land of

their birth. Thus, the French Jews are in Soho, the German Jews in Great

Charlotte Street, the Italian Jews in Clerkenwell, while those of

Whitechapel are either Russian Jews or Jews who have, for three

generations, been settled in London. The wealthy Jew, who fancies

himself socially, the fat, immoral stockbroker and the City philanderer,

has deserted the surroundings of his humbler compatriots for the

refinements of Highbury, Maida Vale, and Bayswater.

The Whitechapel Ghetto begins at Aldgate, branches off at that point

where Commercial Street curls its nasty length to Shoreditch, and

embraces the greater part of Commercial Road East, sprawling on either

side. Here at every turn you will meet the Jew of the comic papers. You

will see expressive fingers, much jewelled, flying in unison with the

rich Yiddish tongue. You will see beards and silk hats which are surely

those which decorated the Hebrew in Eugene Sue's romance. And you will

find a spirit of brotherhood keener than any other race in the world can

show. It is something akin to the force that inspired that splendid

fraternity that once existed in London, and is now no more: I mean the

Costers. If a Jew is in trouble or in any kind of distress, a most

beautiful thing happens: his friends rally round him.

The atmosphere of the Ghetto is a singular mixture. It is half-ironic

gaiety and half-melancholy. But it has not the depressing sadness of the

Russian Quarter. Its temper is more akin to that of the Irish colony

that has settled around Southwark and Bermondsey. There is sadness, but

no misery. There is gloom, but no despair. There is hilarity, but no

frivolity. There is a note of delight, with sombre undertones. There is

nothing of the rapture of living, but rather the pride of accepted

destiny. In the hotels and cafes this is most marked. At the Aldgate

Hotel, you may sit in the brasserie and listen to the Russian Trio

discoursing wistful music, while the packed tables reek with smoke and

Yiddish talk; but there is a companionable, almost domestic touch about

the place which is so lacking about the Western lounges. Young Isaacs is

there, flashing with diamonds and hair-oil, and Rebecca is with him, and

the large, admiring parents of both of them sit with them and drink beer

or eat sandwiches. And Isaacs makes love to his Rebecca in full sight of

all. They lounge in their chairs, arms enclasped, sometimes kissing,

sometimes patting one another. And the parents look on, and roll their

curly heads and say, with subtle significance, "Oi-oi-oi!" many times.

Nights in London · 第 6 / 17 段