AMERICA VISITED

[Speech of Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, Dean of Westminster, at the

breakfast given by the Century Club, New York City, November 2,

1878.]

MR. PRESIDENT AND GENTLEMEN:--The hospitality shown to me has

been no exception to that with which every Englishman meets in this

country, in the endless repetition of kind words and the overwhelming

pressure of genial entertainment which has been thrust upon me. That

famous Englishman, Dr. Johnson, when he went from England to Scotland,

which, at that time, was a more formidable undertaking than is a voyage

from England to America at the present time, met at a reception at St.

Andrew's a young professor who said, breaking the gloomy silence of the

occasion: "I trust you have not been disappointed!" And the famous

Englishman replied: "No; I was told that I should find men of rude

manners and savage tastes, and I have not been disappointed." So, too,

when I set out for your shores I was told that I should meet a kindly

welcome and the most friendly hospitality. I can only say, with Dr.

Johnson, I have not been disappointed.

But in my vivid though short experience of American life and manners, I

have experienced not only hospitality, but considerate and thoughtful

kindness, for which I must ever be grateful. I can find it in my heart

even to forgive the reporters who have left little of what I have said

or done unnoted, and when they have failed in this, have invented

fabulous histories of things which I never did and sayings which I never

uttered. Sometimes when I have been questioned as to my impressions and

views of America, I have been tempted to say with an Englishman who was

hard pressed by his constituents with absurd solicitations: "Gentlemen,

this is the humblest moment of my life, that you should take me for such

a fool as to answer all your questions." But I know their good

intentions and I forgive them freely.

The two months which I have spent on these shores seem to me two years

in actual work, or two centuries rather, for in them I have lived

through all American history. In Virginia I saw the era of the earliest

settlers, and I met John Smith and Pocahontas on the shores of the James

River. In Philadelphia I lived with William Penn, but in a splendor

which I fear would have shocked his simple soul. At Salem I encountered

the stern founders of Massachusetts; at Plymouth I watched the Mayflower

threading its way round the shoals and promontories of that intricate

bay. On Lake George and at Quebec I followed the struggle between the

English and the French for the possession of this great continent. At

Boston and Concord I followed the progress of the War of Independence.

At Mount Vernon I enjoyed the felicity of companionship with Washington

and his associates. I pause at this great name, and carry my

recollections no further. But you will understand how long and fruitful

an experience has thus been added to my life, during the few weeks in

which I have moved amongst the scenes of your eventful history.

And then, leaving the past for the present, a new field opens before me.

There are two impressions which are fixed upon my mind as to the leading

characteristics of the people among whom I have passed, as the almanac

informs me, but two short months. On the one hand I see that everything

seems to be fermenting and growing, changing, perplexing, bewildering.

In that memorable hour--memorable in the life of every man, memorable as

when he sees the first view of the Pyramids, or of the snow-clad range

of the Alps--in the hour when for the first time I stood before the

cataracts of Niagara, I seemed to see a vision of the fears and hopes of

America. It was midnight, the moon was full, and I saw from the

Suspension Bridge the ceaseless contortion, confusion, whirl, and chaos,

which burst forth in clouds of foam from that immense central chasm

which divides the American from the British dominion; and as I looked

on that ever-changing movement, and listened to that everlasting roar,

I saw an emblem of the devouring activity, and ceaseless, restless,

beating whirlpool of existence in the United States. But into the

moonlight sky there rose a cloud of spray twice as high as the Falls

themselves, silent, majestic, immovable. In that silver column,

glittering in the moonlight, I saw an image of the future of American

destiny, of the pillar of light which should emerge from the

distractions of the present--a likeness of the buoyancy and hopefulness

which characterize you both as individuals and as a nation.

You may remember Wordsworth's fine lines on "Yarrow Unvisited," "Yarrow

Visited," and "Yarrow Revisited." "America Unvisited"--that is now for

me a vision of the past; that fabulous America, in which, before they

come to your shores, Englishmen believe Pennsylvania to be the capital

of Massachusetts, and Chicago to be a few miles from New York--that has

now passed away from my mind forever. "America Visited"; this, with its

historic scenes and its endless suggestions of thought, has taken the

place of that fictitious region. Whether there will ever be an "America

Revisited" I cannot say; but if there should be, it will then be to me

not the land of the Pilgrim Fathers and Washington, so much as the land

of kindly homes, and enduring friendships, and happy recollections,

which have now endeared it to me. One feature of this visit I fear I

cannot hope to see repeated, yet one without which it could never have

been accomplished. My two friends, to whom such a pleasing reference has

been made by Dr. Adams, who have made the task easy for me which else

would have been impossible; who have lightened every anxiety; who have

watched over me with such vigilant care that I have not been allowed to

touch more than two dollars in the whole course of my journey--they,

perchance, may not share in "America Revisited." But if ever such should

be my own good fortune, I shall remember it as the land which I visited

with them; where, if at first they were welcomed to your homes for my

sake, I have often felt as the days rolled on that I was welcomed for

their sake. And you will remember them. When in after years you read at

the end of some elaborate essay on the history of music or on Biblical

geography the name of George Grove, you will recall with pleasure the

incessant questionings, the eager desire for knowledge, the wide and

varied capacity for all manner of instruction, which you experienced in

your conversations with him here. And when also hereafter there shall

reach to your shores the fame of the distinguished physician, Dr.

Harper, whether in England or in New Zealand, you will be the more

rejoiced because it will bring before you the memory of the youthful and

blooming student who inspected your hospitals with such keen

appreciation, so impartially sifting the good from the evil.

I part from you with the conviction that such bonds of kindly

intercourse will cement the union between the two countries even more

than the wonderful cable, on which it is popularly believed in England

that my friend and host, Mr. Cyrus Field, passes his mysterious

existence appearing and reappearing at one and the same moment in London

and in New York. Of that unbroken union there seemed to me a likeness,

when on the beautiful shores of Lake George, the Loch Katrine of

America, I saw a maple and an oak-tree growing together from the same

stem, perhaps from the same root--the brilliant fiery maple, the emblem

of America; the gnarled and twisted oak, the emblem of England. So may

the two nations always rise together, so different each from each, and

representing so distinct a future, yet each springing from the same

ancestral root, each bound together by the same healthful sap, and the

same vigorous growth.

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