A TRIP ABROAD WITH DEPEW

[Speech of Horace Porter at the seventy-seventh annual dinner of

the New England Society in the City of New York, December 22, 1882.

Josiah M. Fiske, the President, occupied the chair and called upon

General Porter to respond to the toast: "The Embarkation of the

Pilgrims."]

GENTLEMEN:--Last summer two pilgrims might have been seen

embarking from the port of New York to visit the land from which the

Pilgrim Fathers once embarked. One was the speaker who just sat down

[Chauncey M. Depew], and the other the speaker who has just arisen. I do

not know why we chose that particular time. Perhaps Mr. Choate, with his

usual disregard of the more accurate bounds of veracity, would have you

believe that we selected that time because it was a season when there

was likely to be a general vacation from dinners here. [Laughter.] Our

hopes of pleasure abroad had not risen to any dizzy height. We did not

expect that the land which so discriminating a band as the Pilgrim

Fathers had deliberately abandoned, and preferred New England thereto,

could be a very engaging country. We expected to feel at home there upon

the general principle that the Yankees never appear so much at home as

when they are visiting other people. [Laughter.]

I have noticed that Americans have a desire to go to Europe, and I have

observed, especially, that those who have certain ambitions with regard

to public life think that they ought to cross the ocean; that crossing

the water will add to their public reputations, particularly when they

think how it added to the reputation of George Washington even crossing

the Delaware River. [Laughter and applause.] The process is very simple.

You get aboard a steamer, and when you get out of sight of land you

suddenly realize that the ship has taken up seriously its corkscrew

career through the sea. Certain gastronomic uncertainties follow. You

are sailing under the British flag. You always knew that "Britannia

ruled the waves;" but the only trouble with her now is that she don't

appear to rule them straight. [Laughter.] Then you lean up against the

rail; soon you begin to look about as much discouraged as a Brooklyn

Alderman in contempt of court. Your more experienced and sympathizing

friends tell you that it will soon pass over, and it does. You even try

to beguile your misery with pleasant recollections of Shakespeare. The

only line that seems to come to your memory is the advice of Lady

Macbeth--"To bed, to bed!"--and when you are tucked away in your berth

and the ship is rolling at its worst, your more advisory friends look in

upon you, and they give you plenty of that economical advice that was

given to Joseph's brother, not to "fall out by the way." [Laughter.]

For several days you find your stomach is about in the condition of the

tariff question in the present Congress--likely to come up any minute.

This is particularly hard upon those who had been brought up in the

army, whose previous experience in this direction had been confined

entirely to throwing up earthworks. [Laughter.] You begin to realize how

naval officers sometimes have even gone so far as to throw up their

commissions. If Mr. Choate had seen Mr. Depew and myself under these

circumstances he would not have made those disparaging remarks which he

uttered to-night about the engorgement of our stomachs. If he had

turned those stomachs wrong side out and gazed upon their inner walls

through that opera-glass with which he has been looking so intently

lately upon Mrs. Langtry, he would have found that there was not even

the undigested corner of a carbuncular potato to stop the pyloric

orifice; he would have found upon those inner walls not a morsel of

those things which perish with using. [Laughter.]

But Mr. Choate must have his joke. He is a professional lawyer, and I

have frequently observed that lawyers' jokes are like an undertaker's

griefs--strictly professional. You begin now to sympathize with

everybody that ever went to sea. You think of the Pilgrim Fathers during

the tempestuous voyage in the Mayflower. You reflect how fully their

throats must have been occupied, and you can see how they originated the

practice of speaking through their noses. [Great laughter and applause.]

Why, you will get so nauseated before the trip is over at the very sight

of the white caps that you can't look at the heads of the French nurses

in Paris without feeling seasick. There are the usual "characters"

about. There is the customary foreign spinster of uncertain age that has

been visiting here, who regales you with stories of how in New York she

had twelve men at her feet. Subsequent inquiry proves that they were

chiropodists. [Laughter.]

And then you approach Ireland. You have had enough of the ocean wave,

and you think you will stop there. I have no doubt everybody present,

after hearing from the lips of the distinguished chaplain on my right as

to the character of the men who come from that country, will hereafter

always want to stop there. And when you land at Queenstown you are taken

for an American suspect. They think you are going to join the Fenian

army. They look at you as if you intended to go forth from that ship as

the dove went forth from the ark, in search of some green thing. You

assure them that the only manner in which you can be compared with that

dove is in the general peacefulness of your intentions. Then you go

wandering around by the shores of the Lakes of Killarney and the Gap of

Dunloe, that spot where the Irishman worked all day for the agent of an

absentee landlord on the promise of getting a glass of grog. At night

the agent brought out the grog to him, and the Irishman tasted it, and

he said to the agent, "Which did you put in first, the whiskey or the

water?" "Oh," said he, "the whiskey." "Ah, ha! Well, maybe I'll come to

it by and by." [Laughter.] You look around upon the army, the

constabulary, the police, and you begin to think that Ireland is a good

deal like our own city of Troy, where there are two police forces on

duty--that it is governed a great deal. You can't help thinking of the

philosophical remark made by that learned Chinese statesman, Chin Lan

Pin, when he was here at the time Dennis Kearney was having an

unpleasantness with the Orientals. A man said to him, "Your people will

have to get out of here; the Irish carry too much religion around to

associate with Pagans." "Yes," said Chin Lan Pin, "we have determined to

go. Our own country is too overcrowded now, we can't go there, and I

think we'll go to Ireland." Said the man, "To Ireland? You will be

jumping out of the frying-pan into the fire." Said Chin Lan Pin, "I have

travelled in your country and all around a good deal, and I have come to

the conclusion that nowadays Ireland is about the only country that is

not governed by the Irish." [Applause and laughter.]

Then you go to Scotland. You want to learn from personal observation

whether the allegation is true that the Scotch are a people who are

given to keeping the Sabbath day--and everything else they can lay their

hands on. [Laughter.] You have heard that it is a musical country, and

you immediately find that it is. You hardly land there before you hear

the bag-pipes. You hear that disheartening music, and you sit down and

weep. You know that there is only one other instrument in the world that

will produce such strains, and that is a steam piano on a Mississippi

steamboat when the engineer is drunk. And in this musical country they

tell you in song about the "Lassies Comin' Through the Rye;" but they

never tell you about the rye that goes through the "laddies." And they

will tell you in song about "bodies meeting bodies coming through the

rye," and you tell them that the practice is entirely un-American; that

in America bodies usually are impressed with the solemnity of the

occasion and the general propriety of the thing, and lie quiet until the

arrival of the coroner, but that the coroners are disputing so much in

regard to their jurisdiction, and so many delays occur in issuing burial

permits, that, altogether, they are making the process so tedious and

disagreeable that nowadays in America hardly anybody cares to die. You

tell them this in all seriousness, and you will see from their

expression that they receive it in the same spirit. [Laughter.]

Then you go to England. You have seen her colonies forming a belt around

the circle of the earth, on which the sun never sets. And now you have

laid eyes on the mother-country, on which it appears the sun never

rises. Then you begin to compare legislative bodies, Parliament and

Congress. You find that in Parliament the members sit with their hats on

and cough, while in Congress the members sit with their hats off and

spit. I believe that no international tribunal of competent jurisdiction

has yet determined which nation has the advantage over the other in

these little legislative amenities. And, as you cross the English

Channel, the last thing you see is the English soldier with his blue

trousers and red coat, and the first you see on landing in France is the

French soldier with his red trousers and blue coat, and you come to the

conclusion that if you turn an English soldier upside down he is,

uniformly speaking, a Frenchman. [Laughter.]

We could not tarry long in France; it was the ambition of my travelling

companion to go to Holland, and upon his arrival there the boyish antics

that were performed by my travelling companion in disporting himself

upon the ancestral ground were one of the most touching and playful

sights ever witnessed in the open air. [Laughter.] Nobody knows Mr.

Depew who has not seen him among the Dutch. He wanted especially to go

to Holland, because he knew the Pilgrims had gone from there. They did

not start immediately from England to come here. Before taking their

leap across the ocean they stepped back on to Holland to get a good

ready. [Laughter.] It is a country where water mingles with everything

except gin--a country that has been so effectually diked by the natives

and damned by tourists. [Laughter.] There is one peculiar and especial

advantage that you can enjoy in that country in going out to a banquet

like this. It is that rare and peculiar privilege which you cannot

expect to enjoy in a New England Society even when Mr. Choate addresses

you--the privilege of never being able to understand a word that is said

by the speakers after dinner. But we had to hurry home. We were

Republicans, and there was going to be an election in November. We

didn't suppose that our votes would be necessary at all; still it would

look well, you know, to come home and swell the Republican majority.

[Laughter.] Now when you get on that ship to come back, you begin for

the first time to appreciate the advantage of the steam lanes that are

laid down by the steamship company, by which a vessel goes to Europe one

season over one route and comes back another season over another route,

so that a man who goes to Europe one season and comes back another is

treated to another change of scenery along the entire route. [Laughter.]

As I said, we thought it was the thing for Republicans to come home to

vote. At the polls we found it was rather the thing for them to stay

away. But we acted upon that impulse which often seizes upon the human

breast--the desire to come home to die. I never for one moment realized

the overwhelming defeat that we were going to suffer until one day Mr.

Choate confided to me his determination to speak for the Citizens'

candidate. [Loud laughter.] And this left us the day after that election

and left the other members of our party standing around the highways and

byways with that one supplication upon each one's lips: "Lord, be

merciful unto me a Republican and a sinner." [Loud applause and

laughter.]

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