CHAPTER VIII.

FISH SAUCE.

=Anchovy Sauce.=--POUND three anchovies smooth with three spoonfuls of

butter, add two teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a quarter of a cupful of

water. Bring to the boil and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour

rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Strain through a sieve and serve

hot.

=Quick Bearnaise Sauce.=--Beat the yolks of four eggs with four

tablespoonfuls of oil and four of water. Add a cupful of boiling water

and cook slowly until thick and smooth. Take from the fire and add

minced onion, capers, olives, pickles and parsley and a little tarragon

vinegar.

=Bearnaise Sauce.=--This calls for four small, chopped shallots, one

branch of chopped tarragon, two tablespoonfuls of wine vinegar, two raw

egg yolks, two and a half ounces of hot melted butter, half a

teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a teaspoonful of pepper. Put the

shallots, vinegar, tarragon and pepper in a saucepan and let it stand on

a slow fire until its contents are reduced to one-half their original

quantity. Squeeze the mixture through a cloth into another saucepan. Add

the egg yolks and beat the mixture four minutes without allowing it to

boil. Then add the melted butter very gradually, still keeping the pan

where there is no danger of boiling. Season with a saltspoonful of salt

and a half saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. It is well to make the last

an extremely scanty portion, as more may be added if desired, but none

can be removed. Stir all again quite thoroughly for a minute. Add the

parsley and serve.

=Brown Sauce.=--Brown two tablespoonfuls of flour in butter. Add two

cupfuls of milk or cream and cook until thick, stirring constantly.

=Curry Sauce.=--Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in butter and add a

tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a teaspoonful of curry powder. Mix

thoroughly, add one cupful of cold water, and cook until thick, stirring

constantly. Take from the fire, season with salt and onion juice and

serve hot.

=Egg Sauce.=--Mix a half cup of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, and a

cupful of boiling water and set the sauce pan on the stove. Stir until

thickened, seasoning with salt and pepper. Add two hard boiled eggs,

chopped fine, and serve.

=Sauce Hollandaise.=--This is really a warm mayonnaise, using butter

instead of vegetable oil. It is the best sauce for serving with salmon

or other boiled fish if you desire it hot. It requires a quarter pound

butter, half a lemon, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt and a half

teaspoonful white pepper. The secret of its successful making is to

preserve an even temperature. The sauce should not approach the boiling

point, as the eggs would cook and the sauce curdle. Put the eggs in a

small saucepan and add the butter, gradually stirring constantly with a

wooden spoon. It will soon thicken like a mayonnaise. When the butter is

all in, add salt and pepper and lastly the lemon juice, stirring until

well mixed. If the sauce becomes thick, add a little stock or hot

water. Surround the fish with parsley and slices of lemon and serve the

sauce in a bowl. A few sliced cucumbers should be served with fish.

=Egg Sauce Made From the Hollandaise.=--Egg sauce may be made from the

Hollandaise by sprinkling with two finely chopped hard boiled eggs and a

teaspoonful of parsley.

=Lobster Sauce.=--This is delicious with any white fleshed fish. Its

foundation is Hollandaise sauce, which is also the foundation of most of

the fish sauces. To make it, stir together one tablespoonful of butter,

a few drops of onion juice, a bit of bay leaf (not too much), pepper to

season, and the juice of a half lemon. Add a half cup of white stock or

hot water and set the bowl containing the mixture in a pan of hot water

and stir until the butter melts. As soon as very hot, take from the fire

and stir a little of the mixture in the well-beaten yolks of one and

one-half eggs, then add the rest of the sauce and return to the fire.

Stir constantly for five minutes or until thickened. Add a teaspoonful

of butter, half the pounded coral of a lobster and a tablespoonful of

chopped lobster meat.

=Maitre d'Hotel Butter.=--This is perhaps the simplest and best sauce to

serve on fried or broiled fish. To make it, beat a heaping tablespoonful

of butter to a cream in a warm bowl; add the juice of a lemon, a half

teaspoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of minced parsley. A grating of

nutmeg or bit of chives is sometimes added. If placed on the ice this

can be kept on hand a week or more. It is also excellent spread over a

juicy steak.

=Sauce for Broiled Shad à la Murray.=--Fry the milts, and while hot mash

with butter, a tablespoonful minced parsley and a teaspoonful of lemon

juice. Season lightly with salt and pepper and spread over the fish when

removed from the bag. Set in the oven one moment, then serve.

=Parsley Butter.=--To make this delectable fish sauce, mix one ounce

fresh butter with a teaspoonful each chopped parsley and lemon juice,

half teaspoonful chopped mixed tarragon and cress or chervil and salt

and pepper to season. Spread on a plate, set on the ice until cold then

shape into pats. This is nice with any fish.

=Sauce Tartare.=--This is one of the standbys that no housekeeper liable

to the unexpected appearance of guests should be without. It can be used

in an emergency for so many different things. It is delicious with fish,

cold or hot, broiled or deviled chicken, tongue, beef, cauliflower or

potato salad. It is easy to make, the only essentials being good

materials, everything cold, and the oil added very slowly at first.

After that it may be poured in in larger quantities and more frequently.

Mix in a small bowl one half teaspoonful dry mustard, the same amount

each powdered sugar and salt, and a quarter teaspoonful cayenne. Add the

yolks of two fresh eggs, and stir. Measure out a cupful of olive oil and

add a few drops at a time, stirring until it thickens. If it begins to

thicken too much to stir easily, thin with a little lemon juice, adding

oil and lemon alternately until you have used all the oil and two

tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Lastly beat in two tablespoonfuls of

tarragon or other vinegar. This gives the regular mayonnaise, which

should be smooth and thick. Now to make it into sauce tartare, add one

teaspoonful finely chopped onion or onion juice, a tablespoonful of

chopped pickle, capers, olives and parsley, in any proportion desired.

You may use simply the sour cucumber pickle or part pickle and olives,

capers, etc. This may be kept for a number of days in cold weather by

keeping in glass and in a cool place.

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