CHAPTER IV.

APPETIZERS AND RELISHES.

APPETIZERS play a very important part now-a-days in all up-to-date

establishments and even in modest homes where they are not only employed

as introductory to the course dinner, but as a pleasing accessory to the

afternoon tea service. They are supposed to whet the appetite for the

heavier dishes that follow. In Europe one always finds them. They are

considered very "smart" and as they are but little trouble to prepare in

Paper bag cookery, when one has learned the trick, there is no reason

why the hostess who aims to keep abreast of the times should not make

frequent use of them. At very formal affairs, they are placed on the

service plates after the guests are seated, but usually they are at each

place when the meal is announced. Canapés (which means "toast cushions"

or bouchees, small patties or "bites") with their accompanying spread of

appetizing fish, cheese or potted meats, are newer than the cocktails of

oyster, clam or grape-fruit that used to lead the feast.

=Bouchee Cases.=--These are usually made from pastry by covering tiny

but deep patty pans with rich pastry, cutting narrow strips to make the

rim for the cup. Put on a tin in a buttered bag and bake. When cool they

will slip from the pan. They may be made the day before using if

preferred.

Another way of preparing them is to cut good sized circles of bread;

then with a smaller cutter, scrape out a hollow, spread with butter,

put in the bag and bake ten minutes until browned. When ready to serve,

fill with any mixture desired and serve hot or cold as appetizers or

with the salad course.

=Bonne Bouchee.=--Make the pastry cases and when ready to serve fill

with pate-de-foie gras, made soft with whipped cream, seasoned with

salt, cayenne or paprika. Decorate each one with an olive or bit of

aspic jelly.

=Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise.=--Spread circles or

dominoes of bread with a thin layer of caviare. In the center place a

pitted olive, green or black, with its pit removed and the cavity filled

with minced red peppers. Hold the olive in place with a few drops of

mayonnaise, red or the usual yellow, and put tiny dots of the same about

the border.

=Bouchees of Sardines.=--Pound one or two boned sardines in a mortar,

together with a small quantity of cheese. Season with salt, pepper and

chili vinegar, and add, if you like, a few chopped oysters. Spread this

mixture on circles of "bagged" bread about the size of a silver dollar,

and add a garnish of hard-boiled yoke of egg, rubbed through a sieve and

a little finely minced parsley.

=Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue.=--Cover circles of "bagged" bread with

red stars cut from boiled tongue or the red imported sausages. Lay on

the top of each star, log cabin fashion, several tiny lengths of pickled

gherkins and crown with a sprig of watercress.

=The Making of Canapés.=--Bread two days old is best for the foundation.

Trim free from crusts, then cut in uniform oblongs, diamonds, triangles,

circles or fingers as desired, using for this the cutters that come on

purpose. Butter lightly, spread with the prepared mixture and slip into

the well-greased paper-bag for five minutes just long enough to brown

the toast delicately and heat the savory.

=Anchovy Canapés.=--Cut white bread in oblong strips, spread lightly

with butter, and anchovy paste, and tuck into the buttered bag. Bake

five minutes, then serve hot, adding, if liked, to each canapé two

strips of boneless anchovy laid across it diagonally and a squeeze of

lemon juice.

=Caviare Canapés.=--Cut bread in circles and spread with a mixture of

three tablespoonfuls caviare paste, one teaspoonful lemon juice, one

half teaspoonful paprika, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half

cupful minced cress. Pop in the buttered bag and cook five minutes.

=Hot Cheese Canapés.=--Take circles or strips of Vienna bread, spread

lightly with butter, grate a little cheese over them, sprinkle on top a

little cayenne pepper and salt and put in bag. Cook five minutes.

=Cheese and Cracker Canapés.=--Split Boston crackers and soak ten

minutes in cold water. Lift out carefully and place on a well-buttered

baking tin. Drop on each a generous bit of butter, a sprinkling of

grated Parmesan or American cheese and a dusting of paprika. Put in the

bag, seal and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.

=Cheese Toast Sandwiches.=--Cut slices of white bread rather thicker

than for sandwiches. Chop fine one cupful of American cheese and two

green peppers with the seeds removed. Season with salt and pepper and

work to a paste. Spread one slice of bread with butter and its mate with

creamed filling. Press firmly together, take off the crusts, and put

into the buttered bag. Bake five minutes and serve very hot.

=Cracker Crisps.=--Dip oyster crackers or dinner biscuits in melted

butter, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, and put in a paper bag. Bake ten

minutes.

=Deviled Crackers.=--Mix three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese,

one-fourth teaspoon of dry mustard, one teaspoon of anchovy paste, a

dash of cayenne and a pinch of butter. Spread over the crackers and put

in bag in a hot oven to brown.

=Diables à Cheval.=--Have ready large French prunes that have been

soaked twenty-four hours in water, then cooked and the pits removed.

Insert almonds in the cavity left by the pit. Toss in olive oil or

refined cotton seed oil or roll in thin slices of bacon, fastened with a

tooth pick, put in the bag, seal and cook eight minutes. Serve piping

hot.

NUT APPETIZERS.

=Salted Almonds.=--Shell as many nice large nuts as desired. The Jordan

nuts are best, but the paper-shelled ones will answer. Put into a bowl

and cover with boiling water. Spread a towel over the bowl to retain the

steam and let them stand five minutes. Pour off the water and replace

with cold, then rub off the brown skins between thumb and forefinger.

Shake in a colander until dry, then put in a shallow dish adding for

each cupful of nuts, one tablespoonful melted butter, olive or refined

cotton seed oil (preferably either of the oils, which will give the

richer glaze). Stir well together. Let stand an hour, then put into the

well-greased paper bag, first sprinkling with dry salt, allowing one

tablespoonful to each cupful of nuts. Fasten and roast ten minutes,

shaking the bag occasionally. You can do this by the aid of two trivets.

=Deviled Almonds.=--To devil them, add a suspicion of cayenne pepper

with the salt.

=Roasted Chestnuts.=--Make a cross on the shell of the nut using a sharp

penknife. Put in the oiled bag, dredge lightly with salt, and let cook

twenty minutes giving an occasional shake.

=Salted Chestnuts.=--Throw into boiling water as many shelled nuts as

desired. Blanch and dry, patting with a soft towel. Then add olive oil

or melted butter to the nuts, allowing a teaspoonful to each cup of nuts

and let them remain in oil half an hour. Dredge with salt, a heaping

teaspoonful to each cup, then put in oiled bag and let them brown in the

oven from 10 to 15 minutes, shaking the bag frequently to keep them from

scorching and make them an even brown. These should be crisp and

delicate. To devil them, add a suspicion of cayenne with the salt. Serve

at dinner after the cheese.

=Deviled Chestnuts.=--Shell and blanch a quart of chestnuts. Dry

thoroughly, then brown in paper bag in hot olive oil or butter. Have

ready a mixture composed of two tablespoonfuls of chopped mixed pickle,

one tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, one quarter teaspoonful salt and

a dash of cayenne. Turn this over the hot nuts, and serve at once.

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