It was a beautiful day, and although we did not approve of travelling on
Sunday, we resolved to set out, as we were in an island from whence one
must take occasion as it serves. Macleod and Talisker sailed in a boat
of Rasay's for Sconser, to take the shortest way to Dunvegan. M'Cruslick
went with them to Sconser, from whence he was to go to Slate, and so to
the main land. We were resolved to pay a visit at Kingsburgh, and see
the celebrated Miss Flora Macdonald, who is married to the present Mr.
Macdonald of Kingsburgh; so took that road, though not so near. All the
family, but Lady Rasay, walked down to the shore to see us depart. Rasay
himself went with us in a large boat, with eight oars, built in his
island[526]; as did Mr. Malcolm M'Cleod, Mr. Donald M'Queen, Dr.
Macleod, and some others. We had a most pleasant sail between Rasay and
Sky; and passed by a cave, where Martin says fowls were caught by
lighting fire in the mouth of it. Malcolm remembers this. But it is not
now practised, as few fowls come into it.
We spoke of Death. Dr. Johnson on this subject observed, that the
boastings of some men, as to dying easily, were idle talk[527],
proceeding from partial views. I mentioned Hawthornden's
_Cypress-grove_, where it is said that the world is a mere show; and
that it is unreasonable for a man to wish to continue in the show-room,
after he has seen it. Let him go cheerfully out, and give place to other
spectators[528]. JOHNSON. 'Yes, Sir, if he is sure he is to be well,
after he goes out of it. But if he is to grow blind after he goes out of
the show-room, and never to see any thing again; or if he does not know
whither he is to go next, a man will not go cheerfully out of a
show-room. No wise man will be contented to die, if he thinks he is to
go into a state of punishment. Nay, no wise man will be contented to
die, if he thinks he is to fall into annihilation: for however unhappy
any man's existence may be, he yet would rather have it, than not exist
at all[529]. No; there is no rational principle by which a man can die
contented, but a trust in the mercy of GOD, through the merits of Jesus
Christ.' This short sermon, delivered with an earnest tone, in a boat
upon the sea, which was perfectly calm, on a day appropriated to
religious worship, while every one listened with an air of satisfaction,
had a most pleasing effect upon my mind.
Pursuing the same train of serious reflection, he added that it seemed
certain that happiness could not be found in this life, because so many
had tried to find it, in such a variety of ways, and had not found it.
We reached the harbour of Portree, in Sky, which is a large and good
one. There was lying in it a vessel to carry off the emigrants called
the _Nestor_. It made a short settlement of the differences between a
chief and his clan:--
'-----_Nestor_ componere lites
Inter Peleiden festinat & inter Atriden.'[530]
We approached her, and she hoisted her colours. Dr. Johnson
and Mr. McQueen remained in the boat: Rasay and I, and the
rest went on board of her. She was a very pretty vessel, and, as
we were told, the largest in Clyde. Mr. Harrison, the captain,
shewed her to us. The cabin was commodious, and even elegant.
There was a little library, finely bound. _Portree_ has its name
from King James the Fifth having landed there in his tour
through the Western Isles, _Ree_ in Erse being King, as _Re_ is in
Italian; so it is _Port Royal_. There was here a tolerable inn.
On our landing, I had the pleasure of finding a letter from
home; and there were also letters to Dr. Johnson and me, from
Lord Elibank[531], which had been sent after us from Edinburgh.
His Lordship's letter to me was as follows:--
'DEAR BOSWELL,
'I flew to Edinburgh the moment I heard of Mr. Johnson's arrival; but so
defective was my intelligence, that I came too late. 'It is but justice
to believe, that I could never forgive myself, nor deserve to be
forgiven by others, if I was to fail in any mark of respect to that very
great genius.--I hold him in the highest veneration; for that very
reason I was resolved to take no share in the merit, perhaps guilt, of
inticing him to honour this country with a visit.--I could not persuade
myself there was any thing in Scotland worthy to have a Summer of Samuel
Johnson bestowed on it; but since he has done us that compliment, for
heaven's sake inform me of your motions. I will attend them most
religiously; and though I should regret to let Mr. Johnson go a mile out
of his way on my account, old as I am,[532] I shall be glad to go five
hundred miles to enjoy a day of his company. Have the charity to send a
council-post[533] with intelligence; the post does not suit us in the
country.--At any rate write to me. I will attend you in the north, when
I shall know where to find you.
I am,
My dear Boswell,
Your sincerely
Obedient humble servant,
'ELIBANK.'
'August 21st, 1773.'