We set out, accompanied by Mr. Donald M'Leod, (late of Canna) as our
guide. We rode for some time along the district of Slate, near the
shore. The houses in general are made of turf, covered with grass. The
country seemed well peopled. We came into the district of Strath, and
passed along a wild moorish tract of land till we arrived at the shore.
There we found good verdure, and some curious whin-rocks, or collections
of stones like the ruins of the foundations of old buildings. We saw
also three Cairns of considerable size.
About a mile beyond Broadfoot, is Corrichatachin, a farm of Sir
Alexander Macdonald's, possessed by Mr. M'Kinnon[468], who received us
with a hearty welcome, as did his wife, who was what we call in Scotland
a _lady-like_ woman. Mr. Pennant in the course of his tour to the
Hebrides, passed two nights at this gentleman's house. On its being
mentioned, that a present had here been made to him of a curious
specimen of Highland antiquity, Dr. Johnson said, 'Sir, it was more than
he deserved; the dog is a Whig[469].'
We here enjoyed the comfort of a table plentifully furnished[470], the
satisfaction of which was heightened by a numerous and cheerful company;
and we for the first time had a specimen of the joyous social manners of
the inhabitants of the Highlands. They talked in their own ancient
language, with fluent vivacity, and sung many Erse songs with such
spirit, that, though Dr. Johnson was treated with the greatest respect
and attention, there were moments in which he seemed to be forgotten.
For myself, though but a _Lowlander_, having picked up a few words of
the language, I presumed to mingle in their mirth, and joined in the
choruses with as much glee as any of the company. Dr. Johnson being
fatigued with his journey, retired early to his chamber, where he
composed the following Ode, addressed to Mrs. Thrale[471]:--