CAIRO
February 24th.—We started for Cairo with the first train, and followed
for a long time the Suez Canal. We are rolling now by the side of the
Nile. The passengers, their faces at the windows, are looking out for the
Pyramids. We came in sight of one Pyramid, and ten minutes afterwards, we
enter Cairo station.
The winter season at Cairo was in full swing; the city was full of
tourists and it was difficult to find a shelter. We made a tour of the
hotels, but not a single room was to be had: “full up,” came the curt
reply. We went to Shepherd’s Hotel, and the next hotel, and the next to
that, and received the same answer everywhere. At last we found shelter
at the Hôtel Bristol, but for two days only, as all the apartments were
already let to a number of American tourists who were to arrive with the
next boat from Alexandria.
February 25th.—The chances were that we should remain at Cairo for
some days to come. We had just been informed that we must wait a whole
week to catch the _Laos_ at Port Saïd. Directly after breakfast we set
to work to find lodgings, which was not an easy thing to do. At last
we got apartments, consisting of a bedroom and a sitting-room, in the
second floor of a private house, where we were made as comfortable as
circumstances would allow. We’ll pay five shillings a day for our board
and lodging. Our travelling companions have found rooms in the same house.
February 26th.—I am laid up with a bad cold and look hideous with my nose
twice its size and my eyes half theirs. I wonder if my Australian admirer
would keep faithful to me if he saw me just now? Sergy wanted absolutely
to send for the doctor, but I said that it was quite unnecessary and had
my own way.
Sergy, with all our travelling companions, went to the Pyramids this
afternoon, and I felt very lonely all by myself at home. I listened to
the chant of the “muezzin” calling for prayers from many a minaret, and
at the same time from the Esbekieh Gardens came the music of the native
military band playing Arabian airs.
February 28th.—When the morning came I was burning with fever and could
not raise my head from the pillow, but the _Laos_ had arrived at Port
Saïd, and we must leave Cairo to-day absolutely. It will not suit my cold
to be sure! Before leaving I swallowed a large dose of quinine.
The railway-line leading to Port Saïd is very narrow and looks more
like a tramway-line. The road ran close along the Suez Canal. A steamer
crawled by close at hand as our train wheezed on from Ismailia to
the coast; we soon left the ship behind us. Our way lay now through
sugar-cane and cotton-fields. I felt very unwell all the time and lay
stretched on my narrow bench, feeling very miserable. Notwithstanding the
large dose of quinine my temperature was up, and I was shivering with
fever. I hope I shall not fall seriously ill!