OUR VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD
August 24th.—The day for leaving Khabarovsk came at last. We started
this afternoon for the Land of Desire, to St. Petersburg, darling place.
Colonel Serebriakoff, his wife and Mr. Shaniavski, accompanied us on our
long voyage.
There was a great crowd on the quay to see us off and wish us a pleasant
journey. We embarked on the ship _Neptune_ to Iman, from where we
take the train to Vladivostock. We hasten to say our good-byes. The
flying-bridge is taken off, the last whistle is blown, and we are off to
Europe.
It was growing dark when we weighed anchor at Kasakevitchi, a Cossack
settlement, where a Te Deum was sung in the village chapel for our safe
journey. Log-fires burnt along the shore, and the Cossacks cheered us
enthusiastically.
August 26th.—It was about seven in the morning when we arrived at Iman
and made our way to the special train which was waiting for us. It was
composed of three saloon-cars. We advance slowly, with great precautions,
going twenty miles an hour only, because the ballast is not firmly set
yet. Just about a year ago we drove in these parts in an antediluvian
carriage, by impossible roads covered with untrodden forests, and now we
proceed by train, with all the comfort of modern communication. It took
formerly a whole week to reach Vladivostock, and now the journey is made
in three days! Scores of “manzas,” Chinese workmen, are completing the
railway-line. Their heads are enveloped in a rag, to protect them from
the bites of the mosquitoes, which abound here. We do not stop at the
stations because of the cholera raging in these parts.
August 27th.—We arrived at Nikolskoe two hours late, and put up again
at the house of General Kopanski. We’ll stay a few days here, for Sergy
wants to assist at the manœuvres.
August 28th.—I accompanied my husband to the camp this morning. The
soldiers cheered loudly as we passed. After the manœuvres my husband
invited to dinner all the commanders of the troops.
August 30th.—The weather is heavy and stormy; it has been raining for the
last twenty-four hours. I remained all day indoors.
August 31st.—We left Nikolskoe this morning. A platoon of Cossacks
escorted us to the railway station, where a great crowd had gathered
to see us off. Sergy stood at the window of his car answering the loud
cheers of the population.
We passed in the afternoon a sandy slope called “Gliding Hill,” which
approaches progressively the railway line, and soon perceived the sea
in the distance. Towards midday we arrived at Vladivostock where the
reception was enthusiastic.
The house of the Military Club is put at our disposal. Our windows look
on the “Golden Horn.” Russian and foreign cruisers are anchored in the
vast bay. Every day a new steamer arrives. Here is a trading vessel
carrying the Dutch flag, advancing towards the pier. I see numerous
fishing-smacks plying towards the open sea.
Official visits have been exchanged between my husband and the admirals.
Sergy went over to the cruisers in a steam-launch carrying his standard.
He called first on Admiral Tirtoff, the chief of the Russian fleet, on
his man-of-war _Pamiat Azova_, on which our Emperor made his voyage
around the world when he was heir to the throne. According to naval
etiquette, every time my husband left a vessel cannons were fired.
September 1st.—This morning we were awakened by a loud cannonade; it
was the cruisers who were saluting each other as they usually do every
morning. To-day we are giving a dinner to a hundred guests. All the
admirals and commanders of the troops are invited with their families.
September 5th.—This afternoon twenty-five naval officers came to be
presented to me; they were sent by their commanders, who wanted to
entertain me on their cruisers.
September 6th.—There came an invitation to dinner to-day from Admiral
Tirtoff, which I wanted to decline because Sergy was unwell, but I had
to go all the same. I started off at seven o’clock in a steam-launch,
accompanied by Colonel and Mrs. Serebriakoff, Mr. Shaniavski, and one
of Sergy’s aide-de-camps. Before boarding the cruiser we had to undergo
an examination. On seeing our approach the officer on duty shouted out:
“Who are you?” and the lieutenant who commanded our launch gave him the
password: “Officer.” The cruiser was illuminated in our honour by lamps
of different colours. The officers helped me along the foot-bridge, and
Admiral Tirtoff advanced to meet us. He offered me his arm and took me
to the brilliantly illuminated dining-room flooded with electric light
and full of guests. The Admiral put me at his right hand. I was made
much of; the officers were charming to me. Everyone seemed in the best
of spirits and everything was unceremonious and cosy. I enjoyed myself
tremendously. Here I was in the midst of life once more; formalities
were quickly forgotten, and my modesty was not a bit shocked by the
complimentary speeches of our amiable hosts. I also was in one of my most
reckless and vivacious moods, and threw all my reserves to the winds.
It was delightful to be treated without any manner of deference by our
hosts, and I had rather be admired than esteemed. I am not made of wood
altogether! Directly after dinner the pet of the crew was presented to
me: a baby-bear. The animal was very clever, he performed many tricks,
and amused us with his antics; he drank champagne at a gulp, straight
from the bottle, and got drunk. I was suddenly aware that it was getting
late, but it was in vain that Mrs. Serebriakoff tried to hurry me home;
our hosts would not let me go, and I, on my part, had no wish to leave
the ship, just when the fun was at its height. It was not often I got a
chance of amusing myself like that! It was past midnight when we said
good-bye to the gallant mariners. The second officer escorted us back to
the shore. An enormous electric search-light showed us our way. During
our short crossing the officer found time to tell me that I did not look
at all like a hermit, and was not made for dull existence; he pitied me
that my social position hindered me from profiting of the joys of life,
and advised me to shake myself up a bit. Wicked Mephistopheles!
September 7th.—Sergy went to the camp to inspect the troops, together
with the representatives of the civil, military and naval forces. Before
they left the camp, reciprocal hurrahs cheered our Emperor, the army and
the navy.
September 10th.—Our stay at Vladivostock was a long round of gaiety and
pleasure. I lived in a whirl of excitement. To-day we were invited to
dine on the flagship “Nicholas II.” As we approached the cruiser we heard
the sounds of a band striking up a march. The officer gave us a warm
reception and the Admiral offered me a big bouquet tied with a lovely
piece of Japanese silk, embroidered with fantastical arabesques. I saw
in the dining-room amongst other guests a young opera singer, Señorita
Estrella Bellinfanti, a pupil of Tosti, who had arrived from Japan for a
few days. The young diva is going on to America on a tournée, escorted
by a lady-companion. After a long illness that she has gone through, the
poor señorita begins to lose her sight. She told me that in the space of
another year she would be quite blind, which will oblige her to abandon
the artistic career, which she adores. Seeing her so gay and bright,
nobody could dream of the tragedy awaiting the poor girl. After dinner
we had an improvised concert. One of the officers sat down at the piano
to accompany Señorita Estrella, who sang in a sweet mezzo-soprano voice
lovely Spanish songs, after which the officers sang in chorus Russian
songs, in very good time and rhythm, to the accompaniment of guitars. I
was asked to play on the mandolin; the officers were so insistent that
it was not easy to refuse, and finally I yielded to their entreaties,
but I couldn’t be induced to sing. The officers, thinking that it was my
husband’s presence which kept me back, proposed to detain him on deck
during my performance, but it was all in vain, I would not sing. We
returned on shore very late and went to bed with the evening star.
September 11th.—We have visited the young ladies’ gymnasium this
afternoon. The pupils presented me with a richly embroidered table-cloth
of their own work.
September 12th.—Sergy has gone to Possiette, to the extreme point of
Oriental Siberia on the frontier of Corea, to review the troops. The
Admirals accompanied him on their cruisers.
September 14th.—My husband has returned to-day from his voyage. How long
the time has seemed to me in his absence!
A steamer has just arrived, bringing a battalion of sappers. The boat
had nearly perished on its way, having been caught by a tempest near
Singapore. When the boat moored to the quay a band struck up a march to
the sappers, with a flourish of trumpets, whilst the soldiers stood in
ranks on the deck and shouted hurrah.
September 15th.—To-day the naval officers arranged a concert for me at
the Naval Club. The entertainment was quite a success. Señorita Estrella
took part in it; sitting on the floor, she sang Spanish songs charmingly,
to her own accompaniment on the guitar. She was much applauded and sang
song after song. The audience crowded around the platform and threw
flowers to her. The marine officers sang in chorus Russian folk songs,
and shared Señorita Estrella’s success, sending the audience wild. One
of the officers played a solo on the balalaika. He is a virtuoso of that
Russian national instrument; it was marvellous how he could draw such
rich sounds from that primitive three-corded thing.