CHAPTER XX

IN THE GREAT CITY OF NEW YORK

"_The day-laborer is reckoned as standing at the foot of the social

scale. Yet he is saturated with the laws of the world._"

--EMERSON.

When my investigations on the Pacific coast were over I felt that the

strenuous part of my work,--that is the work of coming down to the

personal level of destitute men,--was over. But from the South came

such an appeal that I was prompted to continue my study at first hand

for another year. So late in the summer of 1910, I found myself, a

penniless man again, drifting along the docks on the west side of New

York, seeking work as a longshoreman.

I was unsuccessful until about 10 A. M. Then a flag was run

up at pier forty-three indicating that a fruit ship from the south was

docked. Just then a young man hurrying along asked, as he passed me,

"Are you looking for work?" I answered in the affirmative.

"Hurry along then and we will get in on the job."

Running breathlessly we reached the dock. There were two hundred ahead

of us. After an hour of jostling, pushing, crowding and clashing with

upraised hands we succeeded in getting near enough to the distributor

to arrest his attention long enough to receive a work-check which

entitled us to work at the wage scale of twenty-five cents an hour.

I noticed among the workers as we continually passed and re-passed one

another, a pale, slim young man. He had a hectic flush on his cheeks

and wore colored eye-glasses. The work was extremely laborious, so much

so that, after working approximately an hour and being unaccustomed

to such work, I began to tremble and to have frequent sensations of

dizziness. I realized that I must desist, so cashed in, receiving

twenty-five cents for my work. Just ahead of me, cashing in also, was

the pale young man, whose whole frame seemed to shake involuntarily,

while the flush on his cheeks had turned purple. It was evident that he

also had no strength left to continue the work. As we left the pier and

strolled down West Street to Battery Park, he told me his story:

"I need money bad, but I couldn't do that work. I am a Swiss, a

watchmaker by trade, but because of my failing eyesight a specialist

declared I must absolutely change my occupation or go blind. What can

I do? I am fitted for nothing but my trade. While struggling for a

comfortable existence for myself and young wife my health failed.

I feel that the only hope of regaining it is an absolute change of

climate. I have a friend in Texas who writes me of the opportunity

offered to the truck gardener there, but it takes money to go and it

takes money to establish yourself when you reach there. You see I have

no money. I believe, even here in New York State, if I could have an

out-door, country life, I would speedily get well. I am living with

my sister in Brooklyn. She is poor, also, but it is a home. I suppose

I might start out and work for enough to eat on my way, and steal my

passage to some health-giving climate. I may eventually be forced to do

this. But even if the railroads had not created State laws making it a

criminal offense in all States to travel that way, I could not go now."

[Illustration: _Municipal Lodging House, New York City

Male Dormitory_]

[Illustration: _Municipal Lodging House, New York City

Female Dormitory_]

He showed me a letter from the Johnsbury State Sanitarium for the

Insane he had received that morning, stating that his wife was no

better. She was laboring under an hallucination, demanding continually

that mass be said for her. Her little babe was expected in about a

week, and it was expected of him as soon as possible to send clothing

for it.

I sat and pondered for awhile, looking far out to the Statue of Liberty

Enlightening the World. Passing time had pierced it full of holes,

letting the daylight through. I left the young man, and a little later

was strolling around the docks on the East Side. Finally I came to

Wall Street. Here at the entrance of this street I came upon the

quartermaster's department of the United States Army. Over the door was

the Coat of Arms,--the Eagle for Uncle Sam, the Sword for Defense, the

Key for Security. Walking about half the length of Wall Street, I came

to the great sub-treasury of the United States, and directly across the

street, almost in hand-shaking distance, the powerful banking concern

of J. Pierpont Morgan & Co. Going on, I came to the other end of this

world-renowned street where stands Old Trinity. I was weary beyond

words to express. So I sat down on the steps to rest. Presently, high

up in its tower, the chimes began to ring. A little later, from within

the church rang out an old familiar hymn, one stanza of which seemed

peculiarly appropriate.

"What num'rous crimes increasing rise

Through this apostate isle!

What land so favored of the skies,

And yet, what land so vile!"

"Good heavens!" I said to myself, "what ails that old bell ringer? Is

he stone deaf or gone mad? Is there not someone to arrest him?" I knew

how useless it would be to try to find that someone, for those with the

will to do so were in Europe, or in Newport, or up the Hudson, or in

the Adirondacks. As I took my weary way up Broadway, I heard in every

step on the pavement the familiar melody, familiar words:--

"What land so favored of the skies,

And yet, what land so vile!"

Leaving Broadway I turned into a large "scoop joint" (saloon). In the

corner where the free lunch was served a large brindle bull-dog was

chained near a big stack of bread. I realized that I was on the Bowery.

A little further up the street, just as I was passing a door-way, a

man with a bundle came rolling down the stairs. From the sound of a

voice above I knew he had been forcefully thrown out. He was about

fifty years of age, almost helpless from the effects of alcohol or some

other poison. Only slightly bruised, he regained his feet, but was

hopelessly unable to gather his effects. His bundle had burst open and

the contents were scattered about promiscuously. His helpless condition

attracted the attention of the many passers-by and a group soon

gathered to watch his futile efforts to regain his lost possessions.

It was a sight too sad to be amusing. Suddenly a workingman stepped

forward, gathered the belongings together, and fastened them securely.

In the dull dazed face of the abandoned man there was a look of deepest

gratitude. As his new friend had gathered up his belongings a small

book with an inscription in gold letters fell from among them. As he

held up the book I, too, could read the title: _The New Testament_.

That poor unfortunate impressed me as being as great as the greatest

man that ever lived, _for he had tried_.

Through this great human funnel, the Bowery (and it is not the only one

in New York through which pours the sin, the shame, the disease and the

disgrace of this great city), I wandered on. Seeing a crowd gathered

on the pavement in one place, I stopped and saw lying prone upon her

face, a wretched creature whose skirt had fallen from her body. She lay

there nude, defenseless, uncovered to the view of the morbid throng.

The unfortunate, though helpless, was conscious of her shame, and was

making futile efforts to hide her disgrace. Just then there happened

along a good Samaritan, who, stepping through the crowd, took from his

shoulders a blue cotton jumper and covered this wreck of womanhood.

Turning to the gaping bystanders, he angrily heaped upon them so

scathing a rebuke that with flushed faces and hanging heads they stole

away. He asked of some women who stood near by if they would shield the

woman until the arrival of an ambulance. One of them kindly consented

to do so. I turned away sick at heart for I knew the pathetic finish,

that the only open door New York held for this unfortunate one was a

prison door.

As I went along, I saw again Old Trinity with its stained glass

windows, its old burying ground, worth millions, where the dead have

rested for two hundred years, and I thought: "After all, it was the

Bowery that revealed to me to-day '_the golden rule of Christ_,' which

alone can bring '_the golden rule of man_.'"

With the vanishing of the sunshine and shadows which all day long

had been playing in and about Union Square--whose bits of green

lawn, sparkling fountains, and many settees welcome the weary and

heavy laden, for a little time at least, and invite rest,--came the

myriad lights of the great city which follow the active day of toil

and care. At evening I found myself resting there. I had taken a

seat beside a white-haired, soft-spoken, slightly-bent man, clothed

in a discolored suit, badly worn shoes and tattered hat,--a man who

seemingly had received all the blows and hardships our tough old

world can give. Indifferently I drew him casually into conversation.

The information I gained was taken out of the crucible of a pathetic

life, and it revealed a story which may be summed up in a few

words: Youth, hope, health, success, love, happiness, reverses,

crosses, trials, temptations, error, ruin, impaired health, old age,

discouragement,--no, not entirely. He still had left a spark of

courage. _He still believed in himself._ He spoke of the detriment of

his physical weakness, caused by a State institution (I knew it was

a prison) into which he was forced; of the prejudice against the man

a little beyond middle life who was looking for work; of the past

that stood as a barrier between him and an ability to re-establish

himself in society. Yet he hopefully added, "I have a job now at

seven dollars a week and my board. I shall be able to get the decent

clothes so essential in finding better work, with better pay." When

he realized that I was apparently in a worse position than himself,

for I seemed both workless and penniless, we talked of our mutual

vicissitudes. He referred me to the Municipal Lodging House of New

York, declaring he had found it both a refuge and a salvation at a time

when it almost seemed to him that life meant utter abandonment, even to

self-destruction.

I did not go to that beautiful home that night, but I stood instead

in the "Bread Line" on the northwest corner of Broadway and Twelfth

Street. It was ten o'clock, and although the bread was not to be given

out to the starving poor of the city until midnight, a crowd had

already begun to collect in front of Old Grace Church, the wealth of

which is said to be almost fabulous. Extending up this street, long

before the hour of distribution began, was a line in which I counted

five hundred men. There were no women among them. There was no jest

or laughter. They seemed as mute as "dumb driven cattle." Just at

midnight, after the line had been standing several hours, two men

appeared with the bread. There was a sudden rush across the street

to be the first in line. A police rule seemed to be in force to the

effect that no one was allowed to stand on that side of the street

until the hour arrived for giving the bread away. After this long wait,

my share of this left-over bread was a piece weighing just four ounces.

When I remembered that during the throes of that long and bitter winter

this one bread line (New York has several) grew from five hundred to

two thousand men, the blazing cross which I could see from the high

church tower became "the handwriting on the wall."

Should you ask me why these men do not seek shelter in New York's

Municipal Home, I could tell you in a few words. Notwithstanding the

generous and hospitable character of the institution, it is usually

crowded to overflowing.

* * * * *

While studying the character and the aspirations of the honest

unemployed in all parts of the country, I found in most of them the

desire, the longing for country life. Even the hardened frequenter

of saloons and other vicious places seemed anxious to change his

environment. They all recognized this to be of great benefit in

starting life anew, and in trying to become useful members of society.

I found many had gone to the country. Many more desired to go up the

Hudson River to work on the farms, in the fruit orchards and the open

fields. I determined to follow them and see what it all meant.

So the following day found me again one of that army to whom society

is inclined, in fact is fond of referring to, as "men who won't

work,"--seeking an existence. I met a great many who, like myself, were

looking for work. But, unlike me (for I had money) some were starving,

some were ill. Many were crippled from much walking, several showed

me blisters on their ankles and feet as large as a twenty-five cent

piece. I found work for one of my English tongue exceedingly difficult

to obtain. At Tarrytown, I asked for work at an enormous estate with

a national reputation. At this time they were employing three hundred

men, all Italians. There was no work for me. They had all the help

they needed. When I asked for the privilege of working for my dinner,

the foreman looked austerely at me and answered, indirectly, "You

understand if you did work here you would receive your pay but once a

month."

"What is the pay?" I asked.

"A dollar and seventy-five cents a day, and you board yourself."

Those Italian workmen were walking several miles a day to and from work

for that wage. I heard among them numerous complaints. I wondered why.

In the land of the Comorra, on the drive from Sorrento to Pompeii, I

had seen these same men in harness, hitched to wagons, hauling loads of

stone like beasts of burden.

[Illustration: _Municipal Lodging House, New York City

Fumigating Chambers--Loading up_]

[Illustration: _Municipal Lodging House, New York City

Fumigating Chambers--Sealed up_]

Someone told me if I wanted farm work I must travel further back in

the country, which I did. I was not successful in finding it until the

morning of the second day. Just over a stone wall I saw five men

at work picking cucumbers for pickles. A little way off stood a very

large, beautiful farm house. I was right when I drew the conclusion

that the owner was a wealthy old farmer. He was holding his farm at a

fabulous sum, believing he would receive it from a certain land owner

who would eventually buy at any price. Leaping the wall I confronted

the farmer, who needed me exceedingly at one dollar a day and board,--I

supposed for not more than ten hours' work, but asked no questions.

I soon discovered that beside the old man, my field companions were

the old man's son and their hired men. No one spoke. Noiselessly and

silently we worked, carrying the pickles in baskets on our shoulders,

as fast as we gathered them, into a shed, where we emptied them into

barrels. It rained at intervals all day, but that made no difference.

We worked on. The mud and wet ground soaked our shoes. The rough

basket, in constant contact with my shoulder, wore a hole through my

jumper, which was a serious consideration when I reflected on my day's

pay.

At noon we were called to dinner. After standing what seemed an

interminable time to a hungry man who for half a day had picked

cucumbers out on the wet ground, beneath dripping trees, we were

allowed to go in to dinner. In a rough outer room there was portioned

out to each of the four hired men a bowl of tea, a tin plate containing

vegetables and a small piece of meat. We were fed, about as the

dog was fed, except that we sat at a table. Not one of my three

fellow-workers had yet spoken to me. Turning to the one on my right I

smiled and made some off-hand remark about the tough meat, which just

at that moment he seemed to be struggling with. He smiled back but

made no reply. I looked across the table at the slim, black eyed, busy

fellow opposite me and made some non-consequential remark. He grinned

with a little more accent than my right hand man. I then spoke to the

man on my left, who was an old man of three score years and ten. He had

his face very close to his plate and did not raise his head. I then

discovered that one of the men was a Hun, the other a Pole. Neither

could speak or understand my language, and the old man, a Dutchman,

was stone deaf. This was about the most convivial dinner party I had

ever attended. The afternoon was about as jovial as the dinner, and was

augmented by more showers and a big lot of pickles. Did you ever pick

pickles? If not, don't do it, at least not for one dollar a day, unless

you must. How your back aches from continual stooping! Your fingers,

black, bruised, and sore from the tiny, prickly cucumber points, drive

a fellow to saying things he would not dare to say before his dad.

At four o'clock the farmer left, to haul the pickles to the pickle

factory. At five o'clock the Dutchman and the Pole went in to milk.

These men were working by the month, each receiving fifteen dollars a

month. On this farm many cows were milked. At six o'clock the son quit,

which made little difference, as he spent most of his time in the shed.

As he was leaving I said, "Is it time to quit?" He answered decidedly,

"No, I'll tell you when to quit." And so the Austrian and I worked on.

The son had mounted his motorcycle and flashed by us like a spark from

a trolley. The Hun followed him with an intense look which seemed to

say: "When I get my American farm I, too, shall have one."

It was getting dark, and still no call to stop work. If I had known

only two words of Slavic it would have been a relief. But I did not.

So I did the next best thing. I expressed my feelings by throwing my

basket as far as I could send it across the field and started toward

the house. The Hun looked amazed. As I drew near, far up in the house

somewhere, to the accompaniment of a tinkling piano, one of the old

farmer's daughters was singing in a voice absolutely devoid of tune,

"I want to go to Heaven right away." I hoped she would. Just then the

son rode up on his spinning wheel and asked, "What did you quit for?" I

replied, "I came up for a lantern."

He then called the Hun. Our _carte du jour_ for supper was a duplicate

of the dinner, only it was stone cold. We plebs slept in an oppressive

attic room. We were called at three A. M. to get up and go to

milking. Not being a regular man, I supposed I was not included in the

call, although I noticed the Hun responded. After my fellow-workers

left I turned over for a much-needed, final rest, but just as I was

dozing into sleep I heard the old farmer puffing up the stairs.

"Hey, you fellow," he called, "get up there and get out and help those

fellers milk."

"All right," I responded. I did get up and out, but it was to the

woodshed where my bundle lay, and while I was putting it together the

old man passed hurriedly by the window again, headed for the garret

stairs with the look of Cain on his face, to see why I still lingered.

I heard the heavy tread on the stairs, as I was passing out across

the lawn toward the nearest town. Yes, there was one dollar due me,

but I sent word back to one of these, my proletaire brothers, that

he could have it, and I suggested that it might be well spent toward

buying a talking machine to be used while they dined at that bountiful,

hilarious table, at the pickle farm.

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