QUANTITIES OF MATERIALS
========+======+=========+===========+==========
Coat | Lead | Raw Oil |Japan Drier|Turpentine
|Pounds| Gallons | Gallon | Gallons
--------+------+---------+-----------+----------
Priming | 100 | 7 | ½ | --
Second | 100 | 4 | -- | 2
Third | 100 | 6½-7 | -- | ½
========+======+=========+===========+==========
The drier is omitted in the second and succeeding coats, unless the
work is to be dried very rapidly, as it is considered to be injurious
to the durability of the paint.
On outside work, boiled oil is generally used in about the proportion
of 1 gallon to 2 gallons of raw oil.
=105. Care in Painting.=—In painting woodwork, putty should not be
used until after the first coat of paint or varnish has been applied.
There are two reasons for this. In the first place, if putty is used
on dry wood, the wood is liable to absorb the oil from the putty and
leave it in a dry and crumbly condition. Then, also, the oil from the
putty soaking into the wood will stain the wood dark, and this stain
may be seen through varnish. For this latter reason, putty should be
put in cracks and holes with a putty knife and not with the fingers, as
otherwise the oil from the putty will get over the fingers and thus be
transferred to the woodwork, where it will show as a dark stain if the
wood is varnished.
Due care should also be taken in painting woodwork that has knots in
it, as otherwise the turpentine in the knot will be sure to discolor
the paint in course of time. To avoid this, the knots should be coated,
or _killed_, with a coat of shellac before the first coat of paint is
applied. The shellac prevents the turpentine in the knot from soaking
through and discoloring the paint.
=106. Cost of Painting.=—The cost of applying paint on general interior
and exterior work will average about twice the cost of the materials,
while for very plain work, done in one color, the cost may be taken at
about 1½ times that of the materials. For stippling, the cost will be
about the same as for two coats of paint. For varnishing, the cost of
labor will be about 1½ times the price of the varnish.
The following figures represent fair average prices, for various
classes of work, and have been adopted by the Builders’ Exchange of a
large eastern city:
COST PER
SQUARE YARD
INTERIOR WORK CENTS
1 coat of paint, including shellacking knots 10
2 coats of paint, including puttying 20
3 coats of paint, including puttying 25 to 30
1 coat of shellac 15
Walls, 1 coat of size, 2 coats of paint 20
Walls, 1 coat of size, 3 coats of paint, stippled 30
_Hardwood Finish_
1 coat of paste filler, 1 coat of varnish 25
1 coat of paste filler, 2 coats of varnish 40
1 coat of paste filler, 3 coats of varnish 50
1 coat of paste filler, 3 coats of varnish, rubbed
down to dull finish 60 to 75
_Finish on Soft Woods_
1 coat of liquid filler, 1 coat of varnish 20
1 coat of liquid filler, 2 coats of varnish 30
1 coat of liquid filler, 3 coats of varnish, rubbed 50
Floors: filling, shellacking, varnishing,
or waxing, 2 coats (or 4 coats in all) 40
_Tinting Walls (Cold-Water Paint)_
Tinting, 50 yards or less, including sizing 12
Tinting, 50 yards or more, including sizing 10
=107.= In =staining= hardwoods with open grain, such as oak, chestnut,
ash, etc., it is customary, when a varnished surface is required, to
stain the paste filler with oil colors so as to secure the desired tint
and then finish with three or four coats of varnish. The staining adds
about 5 cents per square yard to the cost of varnishing.
When it is desired to color the silver grain, or medullary rays,
revealed in quarter-sawed material, the usual plan is first to stain
the material with an oil or an aniline stain that permanently affects
only the silver grain. Afterwards, the paste filler colored to the
desired tint is applied, and this, on entering and closing the open
grain, buries the first stain, but does not cover that over the
medullary rays. This, as in the previous method of staining, adds about
5 cents a square yard to the cost of varnishing.
Another method of treating oak, chestnut, and ash is to stain the wood
to the desired shade with an oil stain of the proper tint. This stain
is applied with cheesecloth to an even surface, and, after puttying,
one coat of flat varnish is applied. This process costs about 25 cents
per square yard.
For silver-gray effects, the addition of aluminum bronze to the oil
stain will give a pleasing effect. This costs about 28 cents per square
yard.
When it is desired to have the open grain show a white effect, the
usual method is to use a paste filler with zinc white added and then a
coat of flat varnish. This costs about 30 cents per square yard.
Oak, chestnut, and ash maybe colored by fuming (to give the effect of
age) with the vapors of ammonia released in a closed box. This effect
is also produced by several patented processes. It costs about 30 cents
per square yard.
EXTERIOR PAINTING COST PER
SQUARE YARD
_Woodwork_ CENTS
1 coat of paint 10
2 coats of paint, including puttying 18
3 coats of paint, including puttying 25 to 30
_Common and Pressed Brickwork_
1 coat of paint 15
2 coats of paint 25
3 coats of paint 35
Penciling and lining joints on painted brickwork 05
Penciling joints on pressed, unpainted brickwork 10
_Sanding_
2 coats of paint, 1 coat of sand 28
3 coats of paint, 1 coat of sand 35
_Miscellaneous_ COST
Dipping shingles, per 1,000 $3.00
Additional coat, per 1,000 shingles .50
Brush-coating shingles, per square yard .15
Blinds, per square foot, 1 coat, painted on
both sides .04
Additional coat for blinds, per square foot .04
Iron fence, per square foot, 1 coat, painted on
both sides .04
Tin roof, per square yard, 1 coat .05
Additional coat for tin roof, per square yard .04
=NOTE.=—For painting sand-lime bricks, double the prices
given for common and pressed brickwork.