----+--------+---------+---------+---------+---------
| | Average | | |
Size|Diameter| Weight | Average | Heaviest| Smallest
No. | of Cord|per Dozen|Number of|Weight to|Pulley to
| Inch | Hanks | Feet per| Be Used | Be Used
| | Pounds | Pound | Pounds | Inches
----+--------+---------+---------+---------+---------
6 | ³/₁₆ | 18 | 66 | 5 | 1½
7 | ⁷/₃₂ | 22 | 55 | 15 | 1¾
8 | ¼ | 27 | 44 | 25 | 2
9 | ⁹/₃₂ | 33 | 36 | 35 | 2¼
10 | ⁵/₁₆ | 44 | 27 | 45 | 2½
12 | ⅜ | 60 | 20 | 55 | 3
====+========+=========+=========+=========+=========
=Sash chains= are made in the form illustrated in Fig. 72, and may
be had either in steel, red metal, or bronze. The sash chains in the
market are usually made in four sizes, being numbered from 0 to 3.
The makers, however, have no agreement regarding these standards, so
that the numbering is not uniform; one manufacturer’s No. 0 chain may
be his heaviest make, while a chain of the same number furnished by
another maker may be the lightest chain that he manufactures. In order
to provide against this discrepancy when specifying, it is well to name
the maker of the chain. The lightest sash chain will support sashes
weighing from 40 to 75 pounds, while the heaviest will carry sashes
that weigh from 150 to 250 pounds.
[Illustration: FIG. 72]
[Illustration: FIG. 73]
=63. Sash Balances.=—By the use of =sash balances=, one of which
is shown in Fig. 73, there is no necessity for weight boxes,
counterweights, etc. The contrivance illustrated has been manufactured
for many years, and the original intention was to have it displace
the sash pulley, cord, and weight for double-hung windows. Installing
spring sash pulleys costs more than the older method of hanging by
means of counterweights. They are constructed with a long, spiral
spring enclosed by a drum, on which the tape _a_, Fig. 73, winds and
thus raises the sash. The coil spring in this balance is made of
either light or heavy material, according to the weight of the sash it
is intended to counterbalance. They are seldom used, however, except
where there is insufficient room for sash weights. The steel tape is
liable to be twisted and broken by jarring in operating the sash, and
for general use it has been found that the most positive action is
secured by pulleys and weights.
=64. Weight of Sash and Glass.=—In estimating the weight of window
sash, in order that the size of the counterweights or of the spring
counterbalance may be determined, the weight of the glass per square
foot may be taken as follows: Plate glass, 3½ pounds; double-thick
glass, 1½ pounds; and single-thick glass, 1 pound. To find the weight
of the wooden sash, add together the height and the width of the
sash, in feet, and multiply by 2.1 for 2¼-inch sash, by 1.67 for
1¾-inch sash, and by 1.33 for 1⅜-inch sash. The several sizes of sash
given indicate the thickness of the sash frame. While these data for
determining the weight of sash are not exact, they are sufficiently
accurate to fix the size of the sash cords and pulleys and to estimate
the weight required to counterbalance them. The best practice in
counterbalance sashes, however, is to weigh the sash after it has been
glazed; in this manner the exact weight and size of the counterweights
required can be determined. The approximate weights of ordinary glazed
sash are usually given in the catalogs of manufacturers of sash
weights, pulleys, etc., and will be found convenient in determining the
approximate weight of sash weights without making the calculations just
described when estimating.
=65. Sash Locks, or Fasts.=—There are many different makes of =sash
locks= for double-hung sash in the market. In Fig. 74 are shown several
of the older type of sash locks that have been used extensively. The
lock shown at (_a_) is known as the _Champion_; that at (_b_), as the
_Ives_, and that at (_c_), as the _Boston_. This type of sash lock,
the construction of which is apparent from the illustration, has given
satisfaction for a number of years.
[Illustration: FIG. 74]
[Illustration: FIG. 75]
[Illustration: FIG. 76]
A newer type of sash lock is that illustrated in Figs. 75 and 76.
In Fig. 75 is shown a sash lock known as the _Fitch_. This lock is
made by several manufacturers, and can be procured in all finishes of
iron for the cheaper class of buildings, and also in bronze metal for
high-class work. It is composed of a helical cam, which is fastened
to the top of the meeting rail of the lower sash and engages with a
hook, or lug, that is secured to the bottom of the upper sash. The
operation of this fastener is rapid, and the rotary movement draws the
two sashes together horizontally and forces them in opposite directions
vertically. In this way, it holds the sash fast and prevents rattling
and air leaks. It also has an advantage in that it cannot be moved
by inserting a knife blade between the sashes from the outside. The
_Yale screw sash fast_ illustrated in Fig. 76 is an excellent piece
of hardware. It accomplishes the same results as the Fitch lock;
namely, drawing the sash together by the tightening of a thumb nut on
a fine-pitched screw. This nut operates against a semicircular-shaped
upright hook, or lug, on the lower sash, thus developing great pressure
in the desired direction. While this sash fastener takes somewhat
longer to operate than the Fitch, it repays by providing greater
security.
=66. Sash Lifts.=—While =sash lifts= are not required for the cheapest
work, as the window can be raised by pushing against the parting rail
or against the mullions, nevertheless they are made to sell at such
reasonable prices that it would seem advisable to place them on the
lower sash of all buildings, no matter how unimportant.
[Illustration: FIG. 77]
[Illustration: FIG. 78]
[Illustration: FIG. 79]
The common type of sash lift illustrated in Fig. 77 is known as the
_hook sash lift_. This lift is extensively used, and can be procured in
any grade or weight, in either cast-iron, steel, or bronze metal, and
in any finish desired.
The _flush sash lift_, the general type of which is shown in Fig. 78,
makes a better appearance than the hook lift, and is considerably
stronger, from the fact that the casing forming the grip is let into
the lower rail of the sash, and the strain is taken by this, rather
than by the screws. These lifts are made in either steel or bronze, and
in all finishes; they can also be had ornamented to correspond with the
lock trim.
For heavy sashes, such as those in public and commercial buildings, the
_bar sash lift_ illustrated in Fig. 79 is the best. This type of lift
should always be used for heavy sash. A sash lift similar to the type
shown at (_a_) is sometimes fastened to the under side of the meeting
rail of the upper sash for the purpose of lowering the sash.
[Illustration: FIG. 80]
[Illustration: FIG. 81]
=67. Sash Sockets and Pole Hooks.=—In buildings having high ceilings,
where the top sash is some distance from the floor, as is likely to
occur in institutions, schools, and factories, it is necessary to
provide “pull-down” poles for the purpose of raising and lowering the
upper sash. The hooks used on the ends of such poles, which are made of
some tough wood, are as illustrated in Fig. 80. Unless the upper sash
is furnished with metal plates that have a hole, or aperture, the pole
will be used against the mullion or upper rail of the window sash and
thus mar the woodwork. The plates, or metal sockets, to engage the sash
and pull-down poles, are illustrated in Fig. 81. They may be had in all
metals and finishes and in several sizes.
[Illustration: FIG. 82]
=68. Stop-Screws.=—The _stop-bead screws_, or _washers_, or, as they
are more commonly known, the =window-stop=, or =bead, adjusters=, types
of which are illustrated in Figs. 82 and 83, are necessary hardware
adjuncts to the window trim for buildings of the better class. In
ordinary work, these stops are secured to the frame by nailing, but
when they are fastened in this manner, the stop-beads are disfigured
if it is necessary to remove them. A cheap and good way of fastening
these stop-beads is to use ordinary round-headed screws. While these
adjusters answer the purpose very well, they do not allow for the
adjustment of the stop-bead sidewise, so as to take up any shrinkage
that might occur in the sash and prevent it from rattling, as well as
making it air-tight.
[Illustration: FIG. 83]
To overcome this deficiency, a =surface washer=, as illustrated in
Fig. 82, was originated. The surface washer was ordinarily made about
⅝ inch in diameter, and was provided with one large hole about ⅜ inch
in diameter or with two smaller holes placed side by side horizontally
across the stop. By this means, the proper adjusting of the stop-bead
was provided for, the washer covering the opening, or hole, through the
stop. However, the defect in this method consisted in the marring of
the finished stop when adjustment was required, for the washer left its
imprint on the woodwork, and, when shifted, this would show.
The best form of stop-bead washer is illustrated in Fig. 83, and is
known as the _Taplin adjusting screw_ and _countersunk cup washer_.
This device is composed of a sunken, or cup, washer with a slotted or
horizontal hole in its base frame, so as to allow about a ³/₁₆-inch
adjustment. This adjustment, as can be clearly seen from the figure, is
made without marring, or disfiguring, the stop-bead in any way. These
countersunk washers may be had in bronze or steel, those made of steel
being finished to match the hardware, as desired.
[Illustration: FIG. 84]