LATER PROGRESS.
BY A. E. MURTON.
IN compiling a history of any place, a stop must be made somewhere, owing
to the exigencies of publication. The details of Lowestoft’s past have
been recorded, and brought up to, perhaps, the most important point in
her career, viz., the granting of the Charter of Incorporation in 1885;
and it only now remains to show how it has fared with the Borough since.
It may at once be said that its record has been one of steady progress.
It has continuously grown in favour as a health resort, and in the year
1897, when this book was published, it had attained a high position among
seaside watering places—a position that must be more than maintained if
the powers that be will only work well together with a single eye for the
benefit of the town. Since the granting of the Charter the population
has considerably increased. In 1881 the census showed 19,696
inhabitants; in 1891 this had increased to 23,347, and in 1897 it was
put, for the purposes of compiling the health report, at 25,590. So it
may be safely said that since the date of the Charter, the Borough has
received an accretion of fully 5,000 persons. The growth of houses has
been in a corresponding ratio. In 1891 there were 4,242 houses in the
parish of Lowestoft, 998 in Kirkley, and one in Gunton, making 5,241 for
the Borough. At the end of 1896, this number had risen to 6,430 in round
figures—an addition of nearly 1200, which must be considered very
satisfactory.
The complaint made by Sir Thomas Lucas, as set forth on the preceding
page, namely, that there is not a single building put up for a
first-class residence, has to a great extent been remedied, for during
the last four years some very fine houses have been built, especially in
South Lowestoft. These have immensely raised the rateable value of the
Borough, and given it greater prestige in the eyes of wealthier seaside
sojourners. This activity in providing large, commodious, and
well-arranged residences does not promise to abate for awhile, for the
builder is busy on Kirkley Cliff, where splendid houses are already
accomplished facts. The Grand Hotel, built by Mr. John Whaley, stands
boldly on the brow of the Cliff. It is a palatial place, splendidly
furnished and decorated, and well patronised. In other parts the Borough
has extended—notably in the West, where hundreds of houses suitable for
the working classes, have been erected. In the North there is also
progress in this particular, and with the advent of the Great Eastern and
Midland & Northern Joint Line Station, this beautiful portion of lazy,
lovely Lowestoft, will rapidly go ahead. Indeed, at the present rate of
progression, it is not difficult to forsee the day when Lowestoft shall
extend to Corton on the North, Oulton and Carlton Colville on the West,
and Kessingland on the South.
There have not been any very great upheavals to disturb the even tenour
of Lowestoft life—the record is that of a peaceful, but none the less
powerful, forward movement. As a fishing port it has greatly advanced,
and in this connection mention must be made of the splendid accommodation
afforded by the Great Eastern Railway, in the shape of the Spacious
Herring and Mackerel Market and Trawl Market, and Waveney Dock, which
were opened on the 1st October, 1883, by Lord Waveney. Even the
capacious trawl dock proved inadequate, and in 1892 it became necessary
to provide additional berthage and quays for the trawlers, the new dock
facing the London Road being constructed. The number of fishing boats
and smacks sailing out of the port are constantly receiving additions,
and it is the proud boast of Lowestoft that she possesses the finest
fishing fleet in the world, manned by crews of brave, hardy seamen, who
are ever ready to render assistance in saving life. A notable instance
of this grand trait of the “toilers of the deep” was the rescue of the 20
survivors of the North German Lloyd Liner _Elbe_, bound from Bremen to
New York viâ Southampton, which sunk about 40 miles off Lowestoft, after
collision with the SS _Crathie_ in the early morning of the 29th January,
1895. By this awful catastrophe 360 lives were lost. The 20 survivors
escaped in an open boat, were sighted and taken aboard the Lowestoft
smack _Wildflower_, and landed at Lowestoft in the afternoon of the same
day.
The old order is ever changing, giving place to new, and so it came about
that the swing bridge which was placed over the harbour waterway in 1830,
was found to be inadequate for the vastly increased traffic. This has
now given place to the present fine and commodious structure and
approaches, which have been provided by the Great Eastern Railway at
great expense.
Improvements have been carried out on all hands. The sewerage of the
town has been brought up to date, and a new outfall has been
necessitated. It has been considered necessary to groyne the North Beach
to prevent the incursions of the sea on the Denes, which are prized by
the inhabitants and visitors in general as a public walk and recreation
ground, and by the fishermen in particular as a place whereon they can
dry their nets. The incandescent light has been adopted in the main
streets of the Borough, and a fine theatre, provided by public-spirited
townsmen, was opened on April 26th, 1897.
Belle Vue Park possesses the Jubilee Memorial. When, in 1887, the
question of providing a lasting record of the Queen’s Jubilee was talked
over, a proposal emanated from Mr. Arthur Stebbings, a member of the Town
Council, that a bridge should be built across the ravine which separated
the Park from the North Parade. Assisted by several other gentlemen, he
raised a goodly sum. But Mr. William Youngman, J.P., an Alderman of the
Borough, who was its first elected Mayor, and who has benefited his
native town to a great extent, came forward and gave the bridge, which
stands as a substantial and useful reminder of the Queen’s Jubilee, and
of Mr. Youngman’s munificence. This gentleman also placed the splendid
East Window in St. Margaret’s Church, and has offered to build a
Children’s Wing to the Hospital as a Diamond Jubilee Offering.
Educationally, Lowestoft has progressed. A School Board was formed in
1893, and since that year handsome new schools have been built, where a
sound education is given. The need for higher instruction was felt, and
to meet it the Corporation are about to provide a fine Technical School
on Clapham Road.
Movements having for their object the moral and physical well-being of
the community have not been neglected. The commodious rooms of the Young
Men’s Christian Association on London Road have been erected, containing
a comprehensive gymnasium, given by Sir Thomas Lucas, and a Home for the
Young Women’s Christian Association is being built. A fine residence
facing the Park is utilized as a Convalescent Home, and Connaught House
in High Street has become a Church of England Home for Waifs and Strays.
An incident worthy of note is the visit which Mr. W. E. Gladstone paid to
the locality on May 19th, 1890, when he was the guest of Mr. J. J. Colman
at “The Clyffe,” Corton. He addressed an audience of 7000 people at
Norwich on the previous evening, and received an address on Lowestoft
Station, to which he replied in a speech of half an hour’s duration.
From that time till the following Tuesday, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone
remained at “The Clyffe,” and on leaving by special train for Hawarden
Castle, the Right Honourable gentleman, who was then in his 81st year,
was presented with an album containing 50 photographs of the principal
views in the neighbourhood. During his stay he expressed himself as
“delighted with the place and the people,” to which Mrs. Gladstone added
that she agreed with all her husband had said.
The late Duke of Clarence (Prince Albert Victor) was a visitor to
Lowestoft in 1885, when he stayed with Lord Claud Hamilton, the present
Chairman of the Great Eastern Railway Company.
The narrow part of High Street, which has for long proved a great
inconvenience, owing to the obstruction to traffic, thereby stopping the
growth of this part of Lowestoft, has been widened, and smart places will
undoubtedly take the place of the somewhat tumble down houses and shops,
relics of “ye olden time,” which formerly existed. While the work of
demolition was in progress, an ancient crypt was found to extend some
distance beneath one of the buildings. The roof is groyned and arched,
and rumour has it that the crypt is a portion of a subterranean way
leading from the Cliff to the Church. Be this as it may, the discovery
is an interesting one for the antiquarian to ponder over, and it should
be carefully preserved.
The fine old Parish Church of St. Margaret’s was completely restored in
and about 1870, when the Rev. W. Hay Chapman was Rector, at a cost of
over £5,000. Thanks to the energy of the present Rector, Hon. Canon
Charles D’Aquilar Lawrence, the sacred edifice has been entirely
re-roofed at great cost. St. Peter’s Church at Kirkley has also been
restored, beautified, and added to, mainly through the munificence of Mr.
E. K. Harvey, J.P. A fine new Seamen’s Church and Institute has been
erected in Suffolk Road under the auspices of the Missions to Seamen
Society. This building is the gift of the Misses Hume, in memory of
their late brother, the Rev. H. S. Hume, M.A., a beloved Vicar of St.
John’s, who died on November 9th, 1895, after an energetic and useful
ministry in Lowestoft, of not quite three years.
In the early part of 1897 a Bill was promoted in Parliament by the
Midland and Great Northern Joint Lines for the purpose of making a
railway from Yarmouth to Lowestoft, entering the town across the Denes.
The scheme also provided for a Dock at Gorleston. It was felt that this
would attract a good deal of fishing trade from Lowestoft, besides which,
it would ruin the Denes, and destroy the future prospects of North
Lowestoft. The Council, by a majority of three, were in favour of the
Bill, but a large public meeting protested against it. A petition was
got up and largely signed, with the result that the Midland & Great
Northern dropped their Bill, and made a compromise with the Great Eastern
Railway, to have joint running powers over a new line, which they, too,
proposed making from Yarmouth to Lowestoft, by a route which will go to
the West of the town and join the present main line near the Coke Ovens
Signal Box. There will be a Station on the Yarmouth Road, which will
also be used jointly. Thus Lowestoft will he in direct communication
with the Midlands.
Lately, Lowestoft Harbour was a source of trouble owing to the periodical
accumulation of sand at its entrance. To obviate this the Great Eastern
Railway Company will carry out extensive works, by which the North and
South Piers will be considerably lengthened, and the Harbour space
greatly added to. The necessary Bill for the purpose has passed through
Parliament.
Another event of the last few years is the building of the splendid
Reading Booms and Concert Hall on the South Pier, this handsome and well
appointed building taking the place of an older structure which was
destroyed by fire on the night of June 29th, 1885.
It will be seen that Lowestoft has not stood still. There is no reason
why she should not go on in her onward march; and there can be no
question but that the chronicler of the future will have plenty of
material at his command wherewith to continue the History of Lowestoft.
[Picture: Decorative graphic]
* * * * *
PUBLISHED BY ARTHUR STEBBINGS, 56, HIGH STREET, LOWESTOFT.
FOOTNOTES
[Note: In the 1897 edition of the book all footnotes were printed as part
of the narrative text, often in parenthesis. This made it almost
impossible to follow the narrative, where a sentence would have a
multiple sentence footnote inserted in the middle of it. In this Project
Gutenberg transcription, the most obvious footnote cases have been
converted back into proper footnotes. Gillingwater’s original edition
had footnotes in this manner.—DP.]
* * * * *
{1} 15 Henry VI. Anno 1535, when the clergy granted a tenth to the king,
the deanery of Lothingland paid as fellows:—
£ s. d.
Vicarage of Lowestoft 0 8 8
Rectory of Blundeston 1 6 8
Rectory of Somerliton 1 4 0
Rectory of Lound 0 16 0
Rectory of Belton 1 14 8
Rectory of Burgh 0 13 4
Rectory of Bradwell 2 16 0
Vicarage of Gorleston 0 13 4
Vicarage of Yarmouth Parva 0 8 8
Rectory of Oldton 1 9 4
Rectory of Gunton 0 8 8
£11 19 4
Benefices of 12 merks or under, which did not pay this tenth, and on
which the Rectors or Vicars kept personal residence, were Flixton,
Fritton, and Ashby.
Why Herringfleet, Corton, and Hopton came to be omitted, does not appear.
This, though apparently a small sum, was in fact, a very considerable
one, for thirty pounds now is scarcely an equivalent in value to five
pounds at the time of Henry VI.
{3} In a field near Barnby, called Bloodmere-field, have been found many
ancient beads, spears, etc.
{4a} Sixth son of Earl Goodwin, brother of Queen Edith, wife of Edward
the Confessor. This earl, with Harold his brother, who disputed the
crown with William the Conqueror, was slain at the decisive battle of
Hastings.
{4b} Fee farm is a perpetual fixt rent, in ancient times, both in
England and France. A ferm signified rent, and land put to farm, was
said to be affirmed or arrented.
{4c} At this period the only distinction of property was the king’s
demesne, and the baronies of the nobility, and the rest of the people
were vassals either to one or the other, small private estates were
entirely unknown, and the yeomen of England did not exist of a century
after.
{4d} The principal branch of the family of the Fitz-Osberts, resided at
Somerley Hall in this island.
{6} The strength of the contest during the whole of this dispute may be
summed up in these words: “By this controversy between the burgh of Great
Yarmouth and the men of Little Yarmouth and Gorleston, in Lothingland it
appears that prescription, seeing they were no burghs, prevailed not to
assert and make good a liberty of unlading goods and exposing them to
sale in the towns.” By the same it is also evident that liberties
belonging to free burghs are only to be had and obtained by the king’s
charter; and that where they were used without it, they were esteemed and
judged usurpations, especially if practised and continued to the
prejudice and damage of a free burgh. It was observed before, that the
fee of this hundred was originally in the crown, and it appears to have
continued so, without any interruption, till the time of king Henry 3rd,
who, in the twenty-second year of his reign, anno 1238, granted it to
John de Baliol and Devergill, his wife, one of the sisters (Ives says
nieces) and heiress of John Scot, Earl of Chester and Huntingdon, in
exchange for their part of the county of Chester. The reasons which
induced king Henry to make this exchange were strictly political: the
ancient Earls of Chester being Earls Palatine, bore great sway in any
combination of the barons, and this the king, as well as his father, had
often experienced. Randulf, the sixth Earl of Chester, uncle and
immediate predecessor of John, was not only a man of great power, but of
considerable abilities and much integrity; he warmly espoused the cause
of king John against the barons, and proved himself a faithful champion
to his son, even to the preservation of his person, and the raising him
to his father’s throne; his attachment to loyalty seemed to proceed from
conviction; and, notwithstanding his being so great an advocate for John
and Henry, yet, with all the dignity and hardiness of one of the iron
barons of that period, he openly rebuked the former in parliament for his
criminality respecting the wives and daughters of the nobility, and
joined with the Earl of Cornwall to force the latter to seal the new
charter of the forest liberties instead of that which he had cancelled at
Oxford. Earl John, the last of this family, his successor, adopted his
uncle’s system, and took part with king Henry upon the great difference
between him and Richard, Earl Marshall, in 1233, and, upon the solemity
of Henry’s marriage with Eleanor, daughter of Raymund, Earl of Provence,
we find him bearing the sword, called Curtana before the king, in token,
says Matthew Paris, that, being an Earl Palatine, he had power to
restrain the king, if he should be exorbitant. It is no wonder,
therefore, that, upon his death, Henry should be desirous of annexing the
county of Chester to his crown, especially as he left no issue, and only
female relations; and as this earldom was, in some respects, entitled to
royal privileges, and a local monarchy, he assumed it into his own hands,
“lest so fair a dominion should be divided among women;” and in the 31st
year of his reign this Earldom annexed to the crown for ever, and
remained so till the 21st of Richard 2nd, when by Act of Parliament, it
was united to the principality of Wales.
{7a} Beatrice, the second daughter of king Henry and his Queen Eleanor,
married John, the first Duke of Britainy, son of John, the late Earl of
the same family, by whom he had issue, Arthur, duke of Britainy, and John
Earl of Richmond, the said nephew. This great and accomplished nobleman
was no less famous for his conduct and courage, than for his illustrious
descent from one of the ancient Norman families, strengthened in its
interests and possessions by several very near alliances to the crown; he
also united to those qualifications, great generosity and real goodness.
{7b} It is evident from Swinden, that the affair was agitated in the 8th
and 9th of Edward 2nd, although Ives asserts, that the Earl of Richmond
took no notice of it till the 2nd of Edward 3rd. Possibly the earl, from
residing at so great a distance, might not personally appear in the
prosecution till the time of Edward 3rd; when the suit grew more serious
and importunate.
{8} The Commissioners appointed by the king to meet at Great Yarmouth,
in order to make enquiry concerning this dispute, and to terminate the
differences, were the Bishop of Winchester, Lord Chancellor of England,
Lord John Stoneherd, and John de Cambridge, his justices; Robert de
Ufford, Oliver de Ingham, and Ralph Nevel, steward of the king’s
household. In the roll of this year is the following entry:—Paid to the
lord chancellor and others, the king’s justices, the time they were at
Great Yarmouth, by order of John Pere Brown, £1 2s. 6d., and at the same
time paid for bread sent to them 13s. 4d.
{9a} In August 1578, the Queen was expected at Yarmouth, by way of
Suffolk, and great preparations were made for her reception and
entertainment; particularly, a silver cup of £16 value, made in the form
of a ship, was intended as a present to Her Majesty; but she proceeded no
further than Norwich, and from thence the Lords of her retinue came to
Yarmouth. In the same year, an annuity of 20s. a year, was granted, by
the city of Norwich, to John Benne, of Lowestoft, who was lamed with
firing off the cannon at Norwich, when the Queen visited that city.
{9b} Leuks, leuga, or luca. There are various conjectures concerning
the meaning of this word; some making it three, others two, and many only
one mile; but with respect to the liberties belonging to the herring
fair, the leuk was determined as only one mile; as may be seen in section
4th., when an actual admeasurement of the said distance was ordered to be
made,
{10} It appears indisputably evident, from divers charters granted to
the town of Great Yarmouth, that the rights and privileges belonging to
their herring fair extended to the distance of seven leuks or miles. The
principal point in dispute between that town and the town of Lowestoft,
was, from what place the said distance was to be measured, whether the
quay or the mouth of the haven: when it was proved, and legally
determined, about the year 1664, that the said admeasurement should
commence at the former place. And, therefore, the town of Lowestoft, and
the other towns, pretending to have a right to buy and sell herrings,
etc., within the limits of the said seven miles from Great Yarmouth was
illegal, and a manifest infringement on the liberties of the town.
{11} A beam to weigh with.
{12a} About this time a Warren, earl of Surrey, was warden or bailiff of
Lothingland, who, it is conjectured, was William de Warren, the second
earl of Surrey.
{12b} It also appears that Lowestoft, and also the island, in the reign
of King Henry IV. and Henry V. was part of the estate of Michael de la
Pole, earl of Suffolk, and passed to his successors.
{12c} Of Somerly town, in this island, and in whom the family became
extinct. Isabel, the sister of Sir Roger Fitz-Osbert, of Somerley, was
wife of Sir Walter Jernegan, of Horham, by virtue of which marriage [her
brother, Sir Roger, dying without issue] he became possessor of the
Somerley estate. This family, in the reign of King John, was settled
first at Horham, in Suffolk, afterwards another branch was settled at
Stonham Jerningham, in the same county, about the year 1234. The Horham
branch, by marriage with the Fitz-Osberts, removed to Somerly which then
became the principal seat of the family.
{13a} The Yarmouth men were opposed by the adjoining towns six years
before they obtained this charter.
{13b} The granting of this charter, for uniting Kirkley road with
Yarmouth haven, was one of the principal sources of the great contention
which arose between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, about the year 1660,
respecting the herring fishery; and gave rise to a law-suit which
subsisted several years: the Yarmouth men insisting, that the place
called Kirkley Road was not contiguous to the haven, but a part of the
main sea, opposite to the town of Kirkley; which town lies to the south
of Lowestoft, thereby including the Roads of Lowestoft within the
boundary of their liberties. Whereas, it is very evident, from the
charter itself, that Kirkley Road was an adjoining place to the haven,
and that the mouth of the haven, at that time, discharged itself into the
sea, opposite the town of Corton; and, therefore, must be situated a
little to the south of that town. This assertion receives still further
confirmation from an ancient view of the town of Lowestoft, late in the
possession of Thomas Martin, F.S.A., and an old map of this part of the
coast, inserted in Ives’s Garianonum, where Kirkley Road is placed
between Lowestoft and Corton.
It is probable that the passage cut through the cliffs at Lowestoft, a
little to the north of the town, called the Cart’s Score, and also the
foot-path between that Score and the northern light-house, were designed,
originally, for the convenience of a communication between Lowestoft and
the adjacent country, and the haven’s mouth when situated near Corton:
and there are several other passages, similar to the above, between
Lowestoft and Yarmouth, which were also formed for preserving a
communication between the country and the haven’s mouth, according to the
several situations which the haven afterwards had.
{14a} The old map from whence this was taken, remained in a chest called
the Hutch, belonging to the Corporation of Yarmouth; and was copied from
one still more ancient, which appeared to be in a perishing condition
about the time of Elizabeth.
{14b} Camden speaks of Kirkley as a haven town, and in his time very
likely it was so; for the Waveney had then not only a communication with
the sea near Lowestoft, but had also such a depth of water at its
entrance as was sufficient to admit vessels of a small draught into it.
At a little distance from the mouth of this river, on the south side, is
a small inlet running towards Kirkley, and now called Kirkley Ham, and
probably is the place which in those days was called Kirkley Haven.
{14c} Blomfield in his history of Norfolk, says it was navigable as far
as Brockdish, and its opposite village Syleham. That the former place,
from the great breadth and depth of the river there, was originally
called Broad-ditch; and the latter now called Syleham, is derived from
Sail-home, intimating probably that there the navigation terminated.
[Swinden says, that in the time of Kett’s Rebellion in 1549, a small
pinnace was to go up to Weybread with twenty-four men] and, as a
corroborating circumstance, anchors have been found, in turning up the
ground in the last-mentioned village, which is generally acknowledged as
sufficient evidence that some centuries ago large boats and barges had a
free and easy access to those places. But when the Yare was reduced to a
stream, and all communications between the Waveney and the sea was cut
off at Lowestoft, the rivers decreased, and the navigation consequently
was more contracted.
{14d} From hence it appears that the defence or fortification, ordered
to be erected at the sea-breach near Lowestoft, was, in reality, only the
reparation of a former one. When it was first erected is now unknown.
In a violent storm and high tide in 1786, the sea was very near breaking
into the river, and so much soil was washed away that the old foundations
of the above defence were discovered.
{16} The first levy, at two shillings, and sixteen pence in the pound
was made under the former commission in 1652.
{17a} Possibly Mutford Bridge before this event was only a dam of earth,
formed across the river. The bridge that was built afterwards consisted
chiefly of earth, arranged in the same manner, with a small passage
through it for the current of water to pass through, consisting of
planks, about three feet wide and two in height, and called the sluice.
In the year 1760 a new bridge was built of brick materials consisting of
one spacious arch, large enough to admit small craft through the same;
and thereby rendered the river navigable to its utmost eastern limits.
{17b} It was customary about this time, on Pakefield fair day, for a man
to stand near this channel, with boots on, to carry children through the
water who went from Lowestoft to the fair.
{17c} This work, intitled Notitia Imperii, is supposed to have been
written in the reign of Valentinian III, and Theodosius II, but by some,
in the very beginning, by others at the latter end of the reign of
Theodosius. It contains a succinct account of the state of the Roman
empire in those times; to wit, of the provinces, and their governors; of
the other magistrates, both civil and military, their titles and
officers; of their land and sea forces; of their foot and horse; of their
troops, both Roman and foreign; and the places where they were quartered,
etc. It was published by Guidus Pancirollus, 1593, under the title of
“Notitia Utraque,” etc., that is a General Survey of the Dignities, both
of the East and West, since the times of Arcadius and Honorius. Ives.
{17d} Designed as a watch for this part of the coast, and under the
command of the honorable the count of the Saxon Shore, so called from its
situation being near, or rather opposite to the country of the Saxons, a
warlike people in Germany. The count guarded this shore against the
attacks of the Saxons.
{18} This is confirmed by an inscription in the Barberini Palace at
Rome.
{19} Ives, whom I have chiefly followed in this account of Garianonum,
is somewhat mistaken here; for I have seen a coin, found in this place,
of Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf.
{20a} In the year 1781, as some labourers were digging in the fields at
Eye, in Suffolk, they discovered a leaden box, which contained several
hundred Roman coins and medals; they were all of the purest gold,
extremely well executed, and in the highest preservation; they were
chiefly of the Emperors Arcadius and Honorius, the last who governed
Britain; they were of about 11s. in value each, and near them were found
some human bones. Whether they were buried with some eminent Roman, to
defray his charges over Styx, or to inform posterity that the Romans once
possessed this island, I leave the ingenious to determine. And in 1786
as the workmen were making a new turnpike road at Benacre, in this
county, one of them struck his pick-axe against a stone bottle, which
contained about 920 pieces of silver coin of Julius Cæsar, supposed by
the date to have been hid there 1500 years. The coins were in general in
good preservation, and included a large series, some few before Domitian;
they were all about the size of sixpence, nine of them weighing an ounce.
Sir Thomas Gooch purchased near 700, some were bought by different
persons, and the remainder sold to a Jew, who retailed them at a low
price in the neighbourhood. Some impressions of Aurelian, Germanicus,
and Nerva Trajanus, were amongst them.
{20b} Son of John Jex, Esq.; late eminent merchant at Lowestoft, and one
of his majesty’s justices of the peace for the county of Suffolk: to
whose kindness the author of this work is much indebted for many papers
relative to the herring fishery at Lowestoft.
{20c} Probably Flixton; a small village near Lowestoft, derived its name
from this Felix, the first bishop of the East Angles. This parish is now
consolidated with Blundeston, and valued, in Queen Anne’s time at £14.
There was formerly a small chapel in this parish, which is now in ruins,
and appears to have been so ever since the year 1704; for in that year
George Burrows, chapelwarden, delivered to his successor Henry Green the
following things belonging to this chapel, viz. two books, a surplice, a
cup, a cloth, a cushion, and an anchor and two pieces of iron belonging
to the chancel window: therefore we may conclude from this, that after
this time the chapel was become unfit for religious uses. Possibly so
small a parish might be unable to keep it in repair, or possibly it might
have received very great damage from the great November storm in the
preceding year. This chapel is dedicated to St. Andrew, and is now made
use of for the vile purpose of a farmer’s out-house; the walls are
demolished for the reparation of stables, and the font is split asunder
to support the two ends of a hog’s trough, to the great offence of common
decency. Thomas Skeete was rector of this parish in 1704, and was the
last rector; and William Fiske, in the year 1717, was the last
chapelwarden. James Smith was rector in 1684 and 1685; John Burrell in
1697, and continued till 1701; and Robert Barrow was curate in 1703.
Richard Newman was buried here January 14th, 1682; Elizabeth Bugg was
buried May 23rd, 1683; William, son of William Fiske, husbandman, and
Mary, his wife, was baptised, November 12th, 1702; John Wallis, of Great
Yarmouth, single man, and Mary Hollis, of Gorleston, single woman, were
married December 21st, 1697; John Davey, of Raydon, single man, and
Elizabeth Shinglers, of South town, single woman, were married July 4th,
1699; William Dawson, of Cromer, in the county of Norfolk, single man,
and Ann Richardson, single woman, were married February 4th, 1695.
{21a} Cnobersburgh, that is Cunoberi-Urbs, from a Saxon Chief who had
formerly resided here.
{21b} St. Olaves, in Herringfleet, was a priory of black Canons, founded
by Roger Fitz-Osbert, of Somerley the last of that family, to the honour
of the St. Mary and St. Olave, the King and martyr, in the beginning of
the reign of Henry III. Herein were, about the time of the dissolution,
five or six religious, who were endowed with £49 11s. 7d. per annum. The
site of this house, with great part of the lands, were granted to Henry
Jerningham, Esq., patron, 26th January, 38 Henry VIII. The site of this
house, together with a considerable estate, comprehending almost the
whole of the parish of Herringfleet, about half a century ago, passed
from the Bacon family to Hill Mussendon, Esq., who bequeathed it to his
elder brother Carteret, who had taken the name of Leathes; from him it
descended to John Leathes, Esq., his son, a very worthy gentlemen, and
much respected, and is now in the possession of his widow, Mrs. Elizabeth
Leathes. Camden says that Sir James Hobart, attorney general and privy
councellor to Henry VII., built Loddon Church from the ground, St. Olaves
Bridge, and the causeway thereby; but it appears from an inscription in
Loddon church, that Sir James built only the former; and that the bridge
and causeway were built by dame Hobart, his wife. In the reign of Edward
I. there was a ferry near the priory of St. Olave, to carry passengers
across the river in a boat. This ferry was then, and for several years
before, kept by one Sireck, a fisherman, who received for his trouble,
bread, herrings, and such like things, to the value of 20s. a year.
After his decease, William, his son, did the like, and made it worth 30s.
per year; Ralph, his son, also did the same, and had of his neighbours
bread and corn, and of strangers money. And because the prior of Toft
hindered passengers from going through his marsh, the said Ralph
purchased a passage through the prior’s marsh, paying 12d. a year; and of
the commoners of Herringfleet, he purchased a way through their common,
and was to carry the mover at all times free for it, and then it became
worth £10 per year; after Ralph’s decease, John, his brother, had it, and
it was valued at £12 per year; John sold it to Robert de Ludham, who made
it, worth £15 per year; and he gave it to Roger de Ludham, who held it
till the 25th of Edward I. 1296, the time when that king sent out a writ
to William de Kerdeston, sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, to enquire, to
what detriment it would be to any person, for him to grant leave to
Jeffery Pollerin, of Yarmouth, to build a bridge over the river at St.
Olave’s priory; and a jury being empanelled, etc., returned, that the
building of a bridge there would be to the detriment of Roger de Ludham
and the prior of Toft; but it would be to the great benefit of the
country. Whereupon leave was given, and a bridge began, at least, as it
is supposed, but perhaps, not finished in a durable manner; for amongst
the patents of the 9th of Henry V. anno domino, 1420, one is for building
a bridge over the water between Norfolk and Suffolk, at Seint Tholowe’s
ferry. What was then done doth not appear, but probably not much; for it
was not till the reign of Henry VII.—it is generally believed—that the
late bridge was built by dame Hobart. This bridge was found to be so
much in decay about 1770 that a new one was forced to be built in its
place. The remains of the priory at Herringfleet were chiefly taken down
in 1784, but some parts of it are still left. John Jernegan, of
Somerley, Esq., and Agnes, his wife, were buried in St. Mary’s chapel, in
the priory of St. Olave, at Herringfleet, about the year 1470. He left
Somerley on his son’s marriage, and went and resided at Cove, near
Beccles. The Jernegans became owners of St. Olave’s, also Herringfleet
and the Somerley estates, by marriage with the Fitz-Osberts: for Sir
Walter Jernegan marrying Isabel, daughter, and at length heir of Sir
Peter Fitz-Osbert, of Somerley, and her brother, Roger Fitz-Osbert,
leaving no issue, Somerley came to the Jernegans about 1230, and became
the capital seat of that family. The Jernegans came from Horham. The
Jernegans of Cossey are a younger branch of the family late of Somerley.
{23} Wista was a measure of land in use among the ancient Saxons, and
was equivalent to half a hide, or sixty acres.
{24} A sand, similar to that whereon Yarmouth was founded, appears at
this time to be forming a little to the north of the point bearing east
from Lowestoft, It begins to be dry even at high water, and at low water
is of considerable length and firmness; so that, probably, in another
century, it may become [as Yarmouth was originally] a convenient
situation for fishermen to dry their nets, etc.; and who may be induced
afterwards to erect the necessary buildings for the purposes of a
sea-fearing life; and from thence may give birth to the origin of a new
town, which may, with propriety, be called New Lowestoft; as should that
ever be the case, it must prove extremely prejudicial to the old town.
{26} Bathing in salt water is much in use at this time in many parts of
the kingdom, particularly at Southampton, Brighthelmston, Margate,
Scarborough, Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and at other places. It was
recommended originally for medicinal purposes only, it being pronounced
by the faculty to be useful in the cure of many diseases; and, probably,
in many cases it has been productive of very happy effects. The first
bathing machine in Lowestoft was erected in Lowestoft in 1768, by Mr.
Scrivener, from a model procured from Margate, in Kent. It met with that
success, that a second machine was soon after set up, and afterwards a
third. The bathing season commences about the month of August, and
continues about six weeks. During this part of the summer season, the
resort of genteel and fashionable company to the town is very
considerable, and is of great utility to many of the inhabitants,
respecting lodgings and other accommodations. Among many other
improvements which the town has lately received, may be included a fine
new turnpike road which runs through Lowestoft to Yarmouth; a mail cart
under the direction of the general post-office, passes through the town
twice a day, with letters to and from London; and the London stage coach
once every day.
{27a} It is probable that the town consists of much the same number of
houses now, as it did many years ago; there being very few houses erected
upon new foundations, but only re-built upon the old ones. The town is
much admired for its fine air, and its remarkably pleasant and healthy
situation which much contributes to the longevity of its inhabitants. In
1755, died here, Thomas Cockrum, aged 103 years; in 1784, Silvester
Manclarke, aged 107; and in 1788, John Wilkerson aged 96.
{27b} When you pass out of the present Market Place into the lane called
Fair Lane—so called from its leading to the place where the fairs were
formerly held—and pass directly westward, till you have passed the four
cross-ways, you then enter the place where the said fairs were kept some
years ago; but upon an application of the town to the Rev. Sir Ashurst
Allen, Bart., Lord of the Manor of Lowestoft, in the year 1768, the fairs
were removed from thence, and were afterwards held in the market place,
and have been kept there ever since.
{28} The clock was made by Mr. Isaac Blowers, of Beccles, and cost £20;
the expense of the frame, and other necessary work in fixing it, £2 13s.
6d.—total, £22 13s. 6d. In defraying these charges was collected a
subscription of £15 16s. 6d.; the remaining money was advanced by the
Rev. Mr. Tanner, vicar, who was repaid again in three years by the
churchwardens.
{29} A court-leet has been held by the lord of the manor of Lowestoft
from time immemorial. A jury used to be empanelled at Lowestoft, which
was obliged to attend at the adjoining parish of Corton, the Thursday
after Ash-Wednesday, to be sworn. On the Friday they took a survey of
the town of Lowestoft, in order to present such nuisances as came under
their jurisdiction; and on the Saturday they dined at an inn in the town,
where they appointed constables, ale-founders, etc., for the said town,
for the year ensuing. After the decade of Sir Thomas Allen, in 1765,
this custom was discontinued.
{31} In consequence of this misfortune, the following petition, signed
by five of his Majesty’s justices of the peace, the ministers of
Lowestoft, and the most respectable parishioners there, was addressed to
the principal inhabitants of the adjoining towns soliciting their
assistance for the relief of the sufferers by the said fire.
{34} Mr. Aldous Arnold, an eminent merchant in this town, very humanely
offered ten pounds to any person who would take this man off the wreck.
{35a} The most probable method of rescuing seamen from those unfortunate
situations, that I can think of, is that of a kite. When the storm is so
far abated that a boat is able to approach pretty near the wreck let a
line—which may soon after easily convey a strong rope—be carried by the
kite over the vessel, and then let it fall. Thus a communication may be
obtained between the wreck and the boat, and by that means the seamen, by
fastening themselves to a float, may be drawn through the water from the
ship to the boat. Or a rope may be conveyed from the boat to the wreck
by means of a small cask, sent from the former in the direction of the
tide, or waves of the sea; and when a communication is obtained a float
may be applied as abovementioned. And, again, if ships which frequent
this coast were to furnish themselves with a floating machine it might be
the means of saving the lives of many passengers and seamen, when they
happened to be in those distressing situations, by sending them off to
the boats which usually attend the wreck. Many lives and much valuable
property might thus be saved. Should every one of the above methods be
deemed impracticable, yet I should think myself extremely happy, was I
only to suggest a hint to some ingenious artist, for the invention of a
more successful scheme that might afford relief in such inconceiveable
distress.—When the author received the honour of being elected a member
of that very respectable body at Norwich, “The Society for the
Participation of Useful Knowledge,” he communicated to them a proposal of
this nature, to be submitted to their consideration.
{35b} It was from this hill that the royal yacht was first discovered,
which brought to England her serene highness, the princess Charlotte, of
Mecklenburgh Strelitz, the intended queen of his present majesty, King
George III. Lord Anson, vice-admiral of Great Britain, was appointed to
convey her highness, with a squadron of men-of-war to the British shore.
After a voyage of ten days, occasioned by boisterous and contrary winds,
Lord Anson, with his squadron—which was damaged—and the royal yacht,
appeared off this place, on Saturday, the 5th September, 1761, about two
o’clock in the afternoon, and anchored in Harwich road about three in the
afternoon the day following. Her highness landed at Harwich on the 7th.,
in the afternoon, and from thence was escorted to London. Had not the
wind suddenly changed, her highness would have landed at Lowestoft, as
was the case of his majesty, King George II. who landed at this town on
his return from Hanover, January 14th, 1736–7. His majesty had been a
considerable time on his voyage from Helvoetfluys to England, occasioned
by stormy and contrary winds, and had been also exposed to the most
imminent danger. When the royal barge, with his majesty, the countess of
Yarmouth, and his lords, approached the shore, a body of sailors
belonging to Lowestoft, uniformly dressed in seamen’s jackets, waded into
the sea, and meeting the barge took it on their shoulders, with the king
and all the nobility, and carried it to the beach, without suffering it
to strike the ground. His majesty was met at the sea-shore by John Jex,
Esq., of this town, with his carriage, who conducted his majesty to his
house; himself having the honour of being coachman. His Majesty landed
about twelve at noon, and about two hours after set off for London. His
majesty died in 1760, and his present majesty, George III. was proclaimed
at Lowestoft by Mr. Robert Reeve to whom the author acknowledges himself
much indebted for many favours, and particularly for his great assiduity
in promoting the publishing of this work. John Adams, Esq., the first
ambassador from America to England, landed at Lowestoft, the 6th August,
1784.
{36a} This light-house is composed of timber, and hangings in a frame of
the same materials; the upper part of it next the sea is sashed, and the
light is produced from three lamps placed inside. In the year 1779, the
timber was found to be in so decayed a state, that the building was
obliged to be wholly taken down, and replaced by another, made of the
same materials, and upon the same construction.
{36b} In the year 1778, the Stanford channel bore S.S.E. from the upper
light-house. The depth of water in the middle of the roads opposite to
the Ness, was between seven and eight fathoms at low water. In the
middle of the roads opposite to the south part of the town, and about 120
fathoms from the shore, is a shoal, where there is not above nine feet of
water at ebb tide; and another shoal lies about three quarters of a mile
from the shore, on which is about sixteen feet at low water. In 1788 the
roads appeared to grow narrower, from the sea losing against the town,
especially at the ness, where the distance from the Holm sand was not
more than a mile and a quarter from the shore; this sand still continues
to increase, which with the sea receding from the shore, accounts for the
roads growing narrower.
Trinity House, London, January 19th, 1782. This corporation having
lately caused a survey to be taken of the Stanford, in which was
found only three fathoms, in the best of the channel, at high water;
it is recommended to all masters and pilots to be very cautious in
navigating ships of a great draught through that channel.
To give one instance of the fluctuating nature of the sands off
Lowestoft; it is observed, that that part of the sands where the church
and chapel bore on each other the fishing boats, a few years ago, used to
sail over, at their going out to sea and returning again into the roads:
this part of the sand is now become perfectly dry; and at low water, when
the weather is fine, extends to a considerable distance; and may,
possibly, afterwards become the foundation of a new town.
{39} In the reign of James I. the Dutch paid an acknowledgement for
leave of fishing on our coasts, which being withdrawn, his son, Charles
I. in the year 1636, issued a proclamation, declaring that he should
maintain such a fleet at sea as would protect his coasts from the insults
of the Dutch. And soon after sent a fleet, under the command of the Earl
of Northumberland, to disperse them, and obliged them to pay 30,000
florins for leave to continue their fishing that season. And thus it has
frequently happened since; the Dutch, by infringing on our liberties, and
having had complaints alledged against them, have paid considerable sums
to appease our resentment; and sometimes, when they have proved
unsuccessful in these methods, have been severely chastised: but all to
no purpose; for to this day they continue practising the same
depredations on our coasts and we every year experience the usual
inconveniences which attend them. About the year 1636 great progress was
made in this fishery by the Dutch; and the wealth procured it to the
republic, caused, as I have just observed, much jealousy in the English
nation. In 1601, eighty thousand tons of herrings were caught, which
being worth eight hundred gilders per ton, brought to the republic
sixty-four millions of gilders. It increased so much from that time that
Sir Walter Raleigh assures us, that in 1610 the inhabitants of the united
provinces employed in this fishery, upon the coasts of England, three
thousand busses, manned with fifty thousand hands. Such a prodigious
gain occasioned the English that year to renew their ancient pretensions
to the property of the seas which surround their island, and to exact of
the Dutch fishermen the tenth herring as a sort of duty. About the year
1600 the Dutch, the French, the citizens of Embden, Hamburgh, and Bremen,
got out of our seas, upon a medium, to the value of between six and seven
millions sterling annually. Another inconvenience which the British
nation experienced from foreigners being permitted to usurp so large a
share of the herring fishery, was the great increase of their seamen.
This was very evident from the wars with the Dutch which happened in the
reign of Charles II., when they were able to supply with able seamen a
fleet of upwards of one hundred sail of line of battle ships. It may be
worth observing, that the ground work of the regulations pursued by the
Dutch in their herring fishery, is taken from the sagacious institutions
laid down by Edward III., in the famous statute of herrings passed in
that reign.
{40a} It is probable, that Lowestoft, as a fishing town, was in a
flourishing state some ages before this period: for though the herring is
a northern fish, and but few of them are seen in the Mediterranean; yet
it is a fish that was known to the Romans, who, probably, acquired the
knowledge of it from their having a station in the vicinity of Lowestoft,
viz., Burgh Castle.
{40b} “Prescription is a title acquired by use and time, and allowed by
law: as when a man claims anything because he, his ancestors, or they
whose estate he hath, have had or used it all the time whereof no memory
is to the contrary.”
{41a} But, notwithstanding, the bailiffs of the cinque ports, in
consequence of the composition not being paid by the burgesses of
Yarmouth, discontinued to frequent, as usual, the Yarmouth herring fair.
Yet those fishermen called the west countrymen still continued coming to
these parts till the year 1756, but after that time they declined coming
any longer. These vessels from the western part of England, as it was
called, _i.e._ from the coast of Kent, etc., used to frequent these
coasts during the herring season, and sell the fish which they caught to
the merchants of Lowestoft and Yarmouth. Also vessels called north
country cobles used to attend and dispose of their fish in the same
manner. These vessels used to engage themselves to some owner here for
the fishing season, which was called being bosted: but this mode of
practice is also now almost wholly discontinued. It was not the custom
formerly for the merchants of Lowestoft to catch all the fish they wanted
with their own boats, but were supplied with a considerable part of it
from the vessels above mentioned: but now the merchants from increasing
the number of their own boats, are able to furnish themselves with a
sufficient quantity of herrings without the assistance of either of the
west country boats, or those from the north. This new mode will appear
very evident, if we compare the number of boats employed by Lowestoft in
the year 1670, with the number employed in the year 1775; in the former
they were only twenty-five, in the latter they amounted to forty-eight.
{41b} This abbey was of the Premonstratensian order. It was founded by
Randulph de Glanvill, A.D. 1182. At the dissolution, the annual revenues
were estimated at the sum of £180 17s. 1d., and the site, with the
greatest part of the manors, rectories, and lands, were granted 28 Henry
VIII. to the above Duke of Suffolk; afterwards it became the property of
Daniel Hervey; next it was vested in the honourable Elizabeth, relict of
Killand Courtney, Esq., daughter of the Viscountess Hinchinbroke, and
grand-daughter of the right-honourable lady, Ann Harvey; afterwards it
belonged to Sir Joshua Van Neck, of Putney, in Surrey, Bart.; and now to
Sir Gerrard Van Neck, of Hevingham, in this county.
{45} Probably one mediety of the church was dedicated to All Saints; the
other to St. Margaret.
{48} During the civil war in the reign of Charles I, Lowestoft took an
active part against the Parliament.
{51} In the year 1737, one boat only, belonging to Joshua Marshall,
caught 72 lasts of herrings. A last is 10,000.
{55a} On the 29th May, 1731, fifteen boats, belonging to Lowestoft,
caught 24,600¼ of mackarels, being the greatest number ever remembered to
have been taken in one day. The sale of these fish amounted to £295 7s.
9d., and were sold by the late Mr. John Spicer, {55b} who usually sold
the mackarels.
{55b} Mr. Spicer was clerk of this parish about fifty years; he died
about the year 1776, and was succeeded by Mr. Bolchin.
{60} The disputes arising from the privileges granted to the burgesses
of Yarmouth and the barons of the cinque ports clashing with each other,
gave birth to the most violent outrages and domestic wars that were ever
known before between any two places in this kingdom; they even proceeded
to such lengths as to alarm the whole kingdom with their mutual
depredations.
By a special pardon granted to the men of Yarmouth, 10 Edward I. it
appears, that they were fined £1000 for damages which they had done upon
the western coast as far as Shoreham and Portsmouth. And in the 31st of
that king it appears, that Yarmouth had sustained damages by the portsmen
to the amount of £20,138, an enormous sum at that time. This, probably,
is what Hollingshed alludes to in his Chronicle, where it is recorded,
that in the 25th of Edward I, “That king passing into Flanders, to the
assistance of the earl thereof, being no sooner on land, but the men of
the ports and Yarmouth, through an old grudge long depending between
them, fell together and fought on the sea with such fury, that,
notwithstanding the king’s commandment to the contrary, twenty-five ships
of Yarmouth and their partakers were burnt, etc.” But Manship observes,
“That in the town’s Record of that year he did not find that so many were
burnt; but by a complaint and presentment made to his majesty it appears,
that thirty-seven ships were greatly damaged by the portsmen, 171 men
killed, and goods to the value of £15,356 were spoiled and taken from
them;” of which (says he) a grievous requital was not long after made by
the men of Yarmouth against portsmen. The late disputes seem to have
originated from the mistaken idea which each of the parties had conceived
of their own importance from their newly-acquired grants, and for want of
having their respective privileges more clearly ascertained.
{61a} In the reign of Edward III. Yarmouth had more ships than any city
or town in England.
{61b} Upon uniting Kirkley road to Yarmouth haven by letters patent, 46
Edward III. the fee-farm rent of £55 per annum was augmented to £60.
{63} Exclusive of the above mentioned rent of £55, which made the whole
fee-farm £60 annually.
{67} At this time there was no bridge over the Yarmouth haven.
{69a} The charter for uniting Kirkley road to Yarmouth haven repealed
the second time, the 5th of Richard II.
{69b} Sir Robert Trisilian was chief justice of England in the time of
Richard II. He was adviser of many illegal acts in that reign, for which
he was impeached, with several other judges and some noblemen in
Parliament. Being convicted of the offences he was charged with, he was
executed, February 19, 1388.
{74} Sir Francis Gawdie, of Wallington Norfolk, was son of Thomas Gawdie
Esq., of Harleston. In 1582, he was appointed sergeant-at-law and
queen’s sergeant; in 1589, a judge; and in 1605, lord chief justice of
the common pleas, being then a knight. He died after a fit of apoplexy
at Sergeant’s Inn, London, before he had sat a year in that station,
leaving no male issue.
{78} Henry Gawdy, of Claxton, Norfolk, Esq., afterwards Sir Henry Gawdy,
Knight, who was a judge of the Common Pleas; he died in 1588 and was
buried in the chancel of the church at Redenhall. The above Sir Henry
Gawdy was created Knight of the Bath at the coronation of James I. and
served the office of sheriff, for the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk
about the sixth of that King’s reign. Another branch of the Gawdy’s
flourished for many years at West Herling, near Thetford. Sir Thomas
Gawdy, Knight, of Gawdy Hall, in Redenhall, a judge in the reign of
Charles II. was employed in all the public business transacted in this
neighbourhood about that time. He was one of the commissioners
respecting the sea-breach at Lowestoft in 1661.
{79} _I.e._, southerly.
{81} Whoever impartially considers the tendency of the second
commission, and the manner of introducing it, will perceive but too much
reason to suspect its being obtained by some improper means.
{82} That a post was erected is evident, from the order in 1662, for a
_new_ post to be set up.
{90} The persons who had the principal management of this suit, which
was conducted with the most indefatigable industry and scrupulous
integrity, as appears from the account of their expenses, which is
preserved and will be given further on.
{97} Probably Sir John Holland, Bart; who died in 1700, aged 98; who was
the son of Sir Thomas Holland, of Quidenham and Wortwell, in Norfolk,
Knt. The Hollands were a very ancient family, and flourished before the
conquest. They came out of Lancashire, and a branch of the family
settled at Wortwell Hall, near Harleston, about the year 1500; and from
thence they removed to Quidenham about the year 1600. The estate at
Wortwell then belonged to Mr. Aldous Arnold, of Lowestoft.
{110} Sir George Reeve was judge, and lived at Oulton High House; but
was buried at Long Stratton.
{119} St. Roche lived in the 14th century, and was lord of Montpelier;
but abandoned his fortunes to turn pilgrim. After curing many persons of
the plague, he was himself attacked, but cured by a dog licking him. For
this reason he is, in France, invoked, in order to avert that calamity,
and is always represented with a sore thigh and a dog. _Gent. Mag._,
March, 1785.
{120a} The brother of Admiral Mighells, and father of Thomas Mighells,
of Lowestoft surgeon, who died in 1763.
{120b} Mary, the wife of the Rev. John Tanner, was a daughter of Mary
Mighells, by Robert, son of Mr. Nicohlas Knight, gent., which Mary
Mighells was sister to Captain Josiah Mighells, who married the above
Dorothy whose maiden name was Coates, of Burlinton, in Yorkshire. This
excellent woman, Mrs. Dorothy Mighells, was a person of the most
exemplary piety and charity. Among her many other pious acts she gave
two silver flagons, weighing upwards of 146 ounces, for the use of the
communion table at Lowestoft.
{127} As may be seen at large in the folio town-book, in the feoffment
before that decree, and in the feoffment of 14th October, 1768.
{129} A repository for the plate, ornaments, etc., belonging to the
altar, and called the prothesis.
{134a} The dwelling-houses charged with the payment of this donation are
situated near the north end of the town, on the east-side, now belonging
to the Arnold family.
{134b} Formerly there was a school-house for Annott’s foundation in the
Town Close adjoining to the east wall of the Churchyard, which being in a
ruinous state, an allowance was made the master until such time as the
Town Chamber was fitted up and made a convenient schoolroom in 1674.
{136} Admiral Sir Allen, formerly of Lowestoft.
{138} After the re-building of the chapel in 1698, the sexton had a
certain sum allowed him annually by the parish for the house rent, until
the year 1720, when a house was purchased for him to reside in.
{139} Afterwards SIR Andrew Leake; eminently distinguished as a gallant
sea commander in the reign of Queen Anne.
{143} When Mr. Emlyn first came to Lowestoft he had not adopted those
religious principles which afterwards proved to him a source of the
heaviest afflictions.
{147} The fine air at Lowestoft was at this time, 1730, strongly
recommended by the London physicians, as extremely beneficial in many
disorders, particularly nervous complaints.
{151} In 1661, Sir Thomas Allen was member for Dunwich. In 1668, Sir
Thomas was a candidate for the same place, but lost the election. In
1710, Sir Richard Allen was member for Dunwich.
{152a} On the fourth day’s fight in the first battle in the following
year, Sir Christopher Minnes having received a shot in the neck, remained
upon deck and gave orders, keeping the blood from flowing with his
fingers an hour, till another shot came and put an end to his existence.
{152b} Against the south wall of the south isle of St. Margaret’s church
is a small monument with the inscription: “Neere unto this place lyeth ye
body of captaine John Utber, commander of His maiesties fregat the
Guernsey. In which, valiantly Fighting in the defence of his King and
countrey, against the Dutch and Dane at Berghen, he was unfortunately
slayne, ye 2nd Augusti, 1665. Ætatis suæ 22.”
{153} The Algerines had been committing depredations for many years on
the English merchants, so that it now became absolutely necessary to
check and chastise them. Among the unhappy captives that were enslaved
by falling into the hands of these Infidels, was one William Wilde of
Lowestoft, who whilst he was in slavery, wrote a letter to Mr. John
Wilde, his father, of which the following is an extract:—
From the prison at Constantinople, 22nd November, 1663. Dear Father,
In all duty I do send you salutations, with my loving mother; having
yet place left me to mourn for your sorrow for me in your old age and
grey hairs, when usual comfort is expected from children; but it is
the Lord’s hand, let him do with me what pleaseth him. For six
months past I have had but little rest. I was chained in the galleys
by the leg, and also both hands together, besides a chain to my back,
as the other slaves; with all which I was forced to row. My
allowance is bread and water; and I am exposed, naked, to the
extremity of both heat and cold. I write you the truth, but not all;
it would wear out a pen of brass to do it. Now that you may know the
occasion of our falling into this calamity, I shall observe to you,
that upon Whitsunday last, in the morning, we saw thirty sail of
galleys coming into the bay towards us; we weighed and towed about
two miles, it being calm where we lay. The galleys coming within us,
cast themselves in a half moon, and began with us. I was laid on
board by the Bassa himself; the remainder of his squadron, with his
nephew, forming the body of his strength, laid round me. Five laid
me on board, and three of them thrust their prows [a kind of
boltsprit at the head of a row galley, on which is fixed a large gun]
into our ports. The general or bassa, once; the admiral another; and
one more. The others laid upon their oars, discharging their prows,
and boarding us with great clamour. Our ship was on fire all over
our heads, which happened on his boarding us, from a wad out of his
cursed piece, which shot a bullet of thirty-two pounds. We cleared
ourselves of the galleys, supposing to have overcome the fire,
otherwise they should have perished with us. At last I caused a
barrel of powder to be brought and placed abaft the mast, on the
gun-deck; then drawing all my men to the fore part of the ship, I
caused it to be fired, and so blew up all, that the enemy might enjoy
nothing. The fight continued from eight or nine in the morning till
twelve or one in the afternoon, the half of which time they were on
board us. Amongst the greatest of my afflictions, this stands first
before me:—my care at home. My two boys are forced to turn Turks, to
my infinite grief. I do beseech you, show love to my wife and
children, by which (if I do live to see) your great love will be
shown to me. Committing you to the protection of the Almighty, I
rest, your dutiful son and poor captive, WILLIAM WILDE.
{155} Since the English, who had certainly the worst of it, lost only
one Captain, one Lieutenant, and ninety-four men, and had about three
hundred wounded.
{167} Sir George Byng was created Lord Torrington.