Departure from False Bay.
Remarks on the passage to Terra Australis.
Gravity of sea-water tried.
Cape Leeuwin, and the coast from thence to King George's Sound.
Arrival in the Sound.
Examination of the harbours.
Excursion inland.
Country, soil, and productions.
Native inhabitants: Language and anatomical measurement.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
[TOWARDS NEW HOLLAND]
WEDNESDAY 4 NOVEMBER 1801
At daybreak of November 4, a light breeze from the eastward enabled me to
quit Simon's Bay, after a stoppage of eighteen days. The high land of
Great Smit's Winkel afterwards becalmed the sails; and we were no further
advanced, at noon, than to have the Cape Point bearing south-west, at the
distance of two or three leagues. On receiving the breeze, which came
from the south-south-west, we stretched towards Cape Agulhas, veering
ship at eleven at night, on coming into 50 fathoms. This wind died away
in the morning, and remained calm till noon; the Cape Point then bore N.
W. ¾ N., Cape False N. ¾ E., and our latitude was 34° 36'. Near this
situation, the bottom is a greenish mud, at the depth of 78 fathoms.
The report of the guns fired by the squadron in Simon's Bay, to
commemorate the escape from gunpowder treason, was distinctly heard at
one o'clock, when we were occupied in making sail to a fine breeze which
had sprung up from the south-westward. At six in the evening, it blew
fresh with cloudy weather; the extremes of the land bore from N. 20° W to
W. 58° E., and we took our departure for New Holland.
Lieutenant Flinders observed azimuths this evening from the binnacle with
two compasses; the ship's head was south (magnetic), and the variation
found to be 26° 13' west; and in default of observations on shore, I
consider this to have been the true variation at the Cape of Good Hope in
1801.
During our run across the Agulhas Bank, I did not find any current
setting to the westward; but in the five days taken to reach the latitude
36° 30' and longitude 33° 38', [TUESDAY 10 NOVEMBER 1801] the ship was
set 59' to the north of the reckoning. The swell which followed after the
ship probably counteracted the effect of the usual westwardly current;
and indeed it must have done something more, if our log were correct,
since the longitude by time keepers was then 30' ahead of account.
I considered the parallel Of 37° south, at this season of the year, to be
sufficiently distant from the verge of the south-east trade to insure a
continuance of western winds; and to be far enough to the north, to avoid
the gales incident to high latitudes. Having made this passage three
times before, I was satisfied of the impropriety of running in a high
southern latitude, particularly when the sun is in the other hemisphere,
and there is nothing else in view than to make a good passage; not only
from the winds there being often stronger than desired, but because they
will not blow so steadily from the westward. In the latitude of 42°, I
have experienced heavy gales from the north, and from the south, and even
from the eastward, in the months of June and July; allowances for lee way
were also frequent in that passage, and light winds or calms not
uncommon. The parallel of 42° seems to be a very proper one, when the sun
is in his highest south declination, and from that time until the middle
of February; but in the opposite months of the year, I should prefer to
run down my easting two or three degrees even to the northward of what
was now chosen for the Investigator.
It may not be improper to anticipate upon the voyage so far as to state
what was the result of keeping in the parallel of 37°, in the month of
November. From the Cape of Good Hope to the island Amsterdam, the winds
were never so strong as to reduce the Investigator to close-reefed top
sails; and on the other hand, the calms amounted to no more than seven
hours in nineteen days. The average distance on the log board upon direct
courses, for we had no foul winds, was a hundred and forty miles per day;
and the Investigator was not a frigate, but a collier-built ship, and
deeply laden. In the following twelve days run, from Amsterdam to the
south-west cape of New Holland, the same winds attended us; and a hundred
and fifty eight miles per day was the average distance, without lee way
or calm.
THURSDAY 12 NOVEMBER 1801
On the 12th, I took the opportunity of light winds to send down a bucket,
fitted with valves to bring up water from a depth; but having no
thermometer of a proper size to go into the bucket, I could only immerse
one after the water was brought up. In this imperfect way, the
temperature at 150 fathoms depth was found to be 63°,1, differing very
little from that of the water at the surface, which was 63°,8. In the
air, the thermometer stood at 63°,6. The specific gravity of the water
brought up was afterwards tried at King George's Sound, and proved, at
the temperature of 69°, to be 1,026, taking that of the crystal-glass
bulb, with which the experiment was made, at 3,150; and the specific
gravity of the surface water, taken up at the same time, was exactly the
same. The latitude of our situation was 36° 36' south, and longitude 38°
23' east. The mean inclination of the dipping needle, placed upon the
cabin table, was 58° 4' of the south end; and the variation, by mean of
azimuths on the preceding evening and amplitude this morning, taken on
the binnacle when the ships head was S. E. by E., magnetic, was 31° 47';
but the true variation, or such as would have been obtained with the head
at north, or south, I consider to have been 29° 22' west.
Throughout the passage to the island Amsterdam, we were accompanied by
some, or all of the oceanic birds usually found in these latitudes; but
not in the numbers I had been accustomed to see them further south. The
spouting of a whale was occasionally perceived, and became more frequent
on approaching the island; the number of small blue petrels was also
increased, and a few Cape hens then made their appearance.
TUESDAY 24 NOVEMBER 1801
At five in the evening of the 24th, the mean variation from three
compasses on the binnacle, was observed to be 23° 7' west, with the
ship's head E. S. E., or 20° 4' true. Our latitude was then 38° 20'
south, longitude 76° 26' east; and at eleven at night, having nearly
reached the longitude of Amsterdam, whose situation I wished to compare
with the time keepers, we hove to, in a parallel between it and the
island St. Paul. At five next morning [WEDNESDAY 25 NOVEMBER 1801], we
steered southward to make Amsterdam; but having reached its latitude, and
no land being visible, our eastwardly course was resumed. The weather was
thick, so that objects could not be distinguished beyond five or six
miles; and at noon the ship was found to have been set 23' of longitude
to the east of what the log gave. From these joint causes it must have
been that Amsterdam was not perceived, if its situation of 38° 43' south
and 77° 40' east, as made in His Majesty's ship Providence, in 1792, were
rightly ascertained.
In passages like this, when fortunately made, it is seldom that any
circumstance occurs, of sufficient interest to be related. Our
employments were to clean, dry, and air the ship below; and the seamen's
clothes and bedding, with the sails, upon deck. These, with the exercise
of the great guns and small arms, were our principal employments in fine
weather; and when otherwise, we were wet and uncomfortable, and could do
little. It was a great satisfaction that frequent pumping of the ship was
not now required, the greatest quantity of water admitted during this
passage being less than two inches an hour. The antiseptics issued were
sour krout and vinegar, to the extent of the applications for them; and
at half an hour before noon every day, a pint of strong wort, made by
pouring boiling water upon the essence of malt, was given to each man. It
was drunk upon deck; and with half a biscuit, made a luncheon for both
officers and people. The allowance of grog was never issued until half an
hour after the dinner time.
[SOUTH COAST. CAPE LEEUWIN.]
SUNDAY 6 DECEMBER 1801
On the 6th of December, our latitude was 35° 10' and longitude 114° 19';
which placed us about S. W. ½ S. twenty-two leagues from the westernmost
isles lying off the south-west cape of New Holland, according to their
position by the French rear-admiral D'Entrecasteaux; a traced copy of
whose general chart of this coast had been furnished to me from the
hydrographical office at the Admiralty. There were no names applied in
this copy; but in the charts of the French voyage, lately published,
these islets are called _Îles St. Alouarn_.
Notwithstanding the nearness of the land there were no signs of such
proximity: no discolouring in the water, no sea weed, no new birds, and
but few of the species before seen. The current had, indeed, somewhat
changed; for while, during the three preceding days, it had set N. 12° W.
twenty-seven miles per day, on an average, it was found this day to have
run N. 47° E. twenty-two miles. This change, however, could scarcely be
thought a sign of land, since equal, or greater differences had occurred
during the passage, and might arise, in part, from errors in the log.
(Atlas Plate II.)
At two in the afternoon, the wind being north-westward, we hauled up to
make the south-western point of Leeuwin's Land, and bent the cables. At
seven, land was seen right ahead, bearing N. 14° E., at the supposed
distance of ten leagues; and on sounding there was 85 fathoms, coral
sand. We stood for it until eleven at night, and then veered to the
south-west, in 65 fathoms, same bottom.
The examination of Nuyts' and of Leeuwin's Lands was not prescribed in my
instructions to be made at this time; but the difference of sailing along
the coast at a distance, or in keeping near it and making a running
survey, was likely to be so little that I judged it advisable to do all
that circumstances would allow whilst the opportunity offered; and I had
the pleasure to find this slight deviation approved at the Admiralty.
MONDAY 7 DECEMBER 1801
At two in the morning we had 80 fathoms, and veered towards the land. It
was seen from the mast head at five; and the highest part, the same which
had been set in the evening, bore N. 12° W. This is the largest of the
before-mentioned Isles of St. Alouarn; but at half past seven we saw
hills extending from behind, and, to all appearance, joining it to the
main land. This supposed isle is, therefore, what I denominate CAPE
LEEUWIN, as being the south-western and most projecting part of Leeuwin's
Land. The highest hill lies nearly in latitude 34° 19' south, and
longitude 115° 6' east; it is a sloping piece of land of about six
hundred feet in elevation, and appeared to be rocky, with a slight
covering of trees and shrubs; but this cape will be best known from Mr.
Westall's sketch. (Atlas Plate XVII. View I.). A piece of lower land was
seen to the north-west, probably a continuation of the coast, and there
are some rocky islets scattered on the south side of the cape. The
largest of these islets, lying about four miles off, was passed before
eight o'clock, at the distance of seven or eight miles, and seen to be
surrounded with high and extensive breakers.
On the east side of Cape Leeuwin the land falls back north-eastward three
or four leagues, and afterwards curves to the south-east, forming a large
bight which appeared to be wholly exposed to the southern winds. The
coast-line round the upper part of this bight was not distinguishable;
but the hills at the back showed more of bare sand than of vegetable
covering. At ten o'clock a low, black projection, forming the eastern
point of the bight, bore east three miles; and the depth was 15 fathoms
upon a coarse sandy bottom. We then veered round to the south-eastward,
following the direction of the coast, with the wind at west-south-west
and weather somewhat squally; and at noon, our situation and principal
bearings were as follow:
Latitude observed, 34° 32 2/3' S.
Longitude by time keepers, 115 30 E.
C. Leeuwin, furthest visible part, N. 55 W.
The low, black point, N. 4 W.
Furthest extreme of the coast ahead, S. 53 E.
The shore abreast was seven or eight miles distant; and behind it ran a
continuation of the same ridge of sandy hillocks which surrounds the
bight, and it extended to the southern extreme. Over this ridge were
perceived, here and there, the tops of some higher and less sandy hills,
standing a few miles inland; but the general aspect of the country was
that of great sterility; nor was there, as yet, any appearance of its
being inhabited.
Soon after four we passed the noon's extreme at the distance of four
miles. It is a steep, rocky cape, named in the French chart, Point
D'Entrecasteaux; and is one of the most remarkable projections of this
coast. I make its latitude, from the bearings, to be 34° 52' south, and
longitude by time keepers 116° 1' east. A low rock lies two or three
miles to the east-south-east, from the point, and a patch of breakers
nearly the same distance from the south; and soon after passing the
point, two other rocks, white and rather high, were seen lying from it
five leagues to the south-east. At a quarter past seven, when the night
closed in
The two white rocks bore N. 20° E.
Furthest extrem of the land, like a steep head, N. 71° E.
TUESDAY 8 DECEMBER 1801
The wind was then at south-west, and we stretched onward until one in the
morning, before tacking to the north-west for the land. At daylight the
ship was found to have been carried to the eastward, and neither Point
D'Entrecasteaux nor the two white rocks were in sight; but in the N. 19°
E., about eight miles, was a head not far from the extreme set in the
evening. It afterwards proved to be a smooth, steep rock, lying one mile
from the main; and is the land first made upon this coast by captain
Vancouver, who called it Cape Chatham. Its latitude is very nearly 35° 3'
south, longitude 116° 29' east, and it was sketched by Mr. Westall.
(Atlas Plate XVII. View 2.)
Whilst stretching in for the shore, with the ship's head
north-west-by-north (magnetic) I took azimuths with two compasses on the
binnacle; after which they were immediately placed on a stand near the
taffrel and other azimuths taken. The variation resulting from the
observations on the binacle was 5° 59' west, and from those near the
taffrel 8° 24' west; affording another instance of the effect produced by
changing the place of the compass. In 1803, and at twenty leagues to the
west of Cape Leeuwin, we had 10° 4' variation on the binnacle, with the
head south-east; from which, and the above 5° 59', the true variation off
the cape, or such as would be obtained with the ship's head at north or
south, should be 7° 48' west.*
[* The mode by which these, and other observations made with the compass
on the binnacle, are reduced to what is conceived to be the true
variation, is explained in the Appendix No. II, to the second volume.]
At seven o'clock we got sight of the two white rocks, which enabled me to
take up the survey of the preceding evening; and we then bore away along
the coast at the distance of four or five miles, with a pleasant breeze
and fine weather.
Some parts of the shore between Point D'Entrecasteaux and Cape Chatham
were not distinctly seen. That which is nearest to the cape lies in the
line of N. 38° W. from its outer part, and presents an intermixture of
steep cliffs and small sandy beaches, with a back land moderately high,
and better covered with wood than that before described. On the east side
of Cape Chatham the shore falls back to the northward, and makes a bight
in which is a small reef of rocks. It then projects in a cliffy head,
which lies S. 75° E. seven miles from the cape, and is called Point Nuyts
in the French chart; upon the supposition, probably, that this was the
first land seen by Nuyts in 1627. Beyond this point the coast trends very
nearly east; but forms several projections, some of which are steep and
others low; and between them are sandy bights where small vessels might
obtain shelter from all northern winds. The hills lying at the back of
the shore seemed to be barren, though trees grew thickly on their eastern
sides; they are not high, but it was rare to perceive any thing of the
interior country above them.
At noon the nearest parts of the coast were a steep and a more eastern
low point, both distant about four miles; and from the bight between them
was rising the first smoke seen upon this coast. Our situation at this
time, and the principal bearings taken, were as under;
Latitude, observed to the north and south, 85° 7' 5".
Longitude by time keepers, 116 50.
Point Nuyts, with Cape Chatham behind, N. 75 W.
Steep point, near the smoke, N. 15 W.
Furthest visible extreme ahead, N. 84 E.
Soon after two o'clock we passed at the distance of five miles from a
steep point which has a broad rock lying near it. This point, being
unnamed and somewhat remarkable, I call _Point Hillier_; it lies in 35°
4' south and 117° 9' east. The coast extends from thence nearly
east-by-south, without any considerable projection except at the furthest
extreme then visible; and on coming up with it, at half-past five, it
proved to be the Cape Howe of Vancouver. There is another Cape Howe upon
this same coast, named by Captain Cook, which makes it necessary to
distinguish this by a descriptive adjunct, and I shall therefore call it
_West_ Cape Howe. The situation of this projecting cliffy cape is in 35°
8½' south and 117° 40' east. Beyond it the land trends north-by-east,
four miles, into a sandy bight, in which there is a small islet; and
further along the shore, which then stretches eastward and again becomes
cliffy, there are two others. When the cape bore N. 10° W. four miles,
the highest of the Eclipse Isles was in sight, bearing E. 4° N.; but "the
small detached islet," which Captain Vancouver says (Vol. I p. 32) "lies
from Cape Howe S. 68° E., three leagues," could not be seen; though it
should have lain nearly in our track.*
[* This islet, seen by Captain Vancouver in the evening, must have been
the highest of the Eclipse Isles; but from the apparent difference of its
situation, was thought not to be the same on the following morning. The
change in the variation of the compass, which had taken place on altering
the direction of the ship's head, seems to have been the cause of this
apparent difference.]
[SOUTH COAST. KING GEORGE'S SOUND.]
(Atlas Plate XVII. View 3.)
The wind blew fresh at this time, and a current of more than one mile an
hour ran with us, so that, by carrying all sail, I hoped to get sight of
King George's Sound before dark. At seven we passed close on the south
side of the Eclipse Isles; but Bald Head at the entrance of the sound had
so different an appearance from what I had been led to expect, being a
slope in this point of view, that the steep east end of Break-sea Island
was at first taken for it. The error was fortunately perceived in time;
and at eight o'clock we hauled up round the head, with the wind at west,
and made a stretch into the sound. It was then dark; but the night being
fine, I did not hesitate to work up by the guidance of captain
Vancouver's chart; and having reached nearly into a line between Seal
Island and the first beach round Bald Head, we anchored at eleven o'clock
in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom.
WEDNESDAY 9 DECEMBER 1801
King George's Sound had been chosen as the proper place in which to
prepare ourselves for the examination of the south coast of Terra
Australis, and I sought to make the best use of the advantages it might
furnish. The first essential requisite was a place of secure shelter,
where the masts could be stripped, the rigging and sails put into order,
and communication had with the shore without interruption from the
elements; but this, from captain Vancouver's chart and description, I did
not expect the outer sound to afford. The facility of quitting
Princess-Royal Harbour, with such a wind as would be favourable for
prosecuting the investigation of the coast, induced me so far to prefer
it to Oyster Harbour as to make it the first object of examination; and
in the morning, after we had sounded round the ship and found her so
placed as to require no immediate movement, I went in a boat for the
purpose, accompanied by the master and landscape painter; the naturalist
and some other gentlemen landing at the same time, to botanise in the
vicinity of Bald Head.
(Atlas Plate VII. View 4.)
Seal Island, where we stopped in passing, is a mass of granite, which is
accessible only at its western end, as represented in Mr. Westall's
sketch. After killing a few seals upon the shore, we ascended the hill to
search for the bottle and parchment left by captain Vancouver in 1791;*
but could find no vestiges either of it or of the staff or pile of
stones; and since there was no appearance of the natives having crossed
over from the main, I was led to suspect that a second ship had been here
before us.
[* See his Voyage, Vol. I. Page 40]
At Point Possession, on the south side of the entrance to Princess-Royal
Harbour, we had a good view of that extensive piece of water. Wood seemed
not to be abundant near the shores; and therefore a projection two or
three miles to the south-west, which was covered with trees, first
attracted my notice. The depth of water in going to it was, however, too
little for the ship; nor was there any fresh stream in the neighbourhood.
Some person, but not captain Vancouver, had nevertheless been cutting
wood there; for several trees had been felled with axe and saw. Not far
from thence stood a number of bark sheds, like the huts of the natives
who live in the forests behind Port Jackson, and forming what might be
called a small village; but it had been long deserted. Going across from
the woody point to the north side of the harbour, we there found 3
fathoms within less than half a mile of the shore; and an increasing
depth from thence out to the entrance. The soundings in the entrance were
from 5 to 7 fathoms; but the channel was too narrow to admit of getting
in without a leading wind and much caution.
THURSDAY 10 DECEMBER 1801
On Thursday morning the master was sent to examine the north side of the
harbour for water and wood; and we got the ship under way to beat up to
the entrance, the wind blowing still from the westward. At eleven o'clock
the anchor was dropped in 6 fathoms half a mile from Point Possession;
and as I was doubtful of the master's success, I went in a boat,
accompanied by lieutenant Flinders, to examine Oyster Harbour. We carried
7 and 6 fathoms from the ship towards the entrance until Michaelmas and
Break-sea Islands were closing on with each other; after which the depth
diminished to 5, 4, 3, and 2¾ fathoms. On hauling westward we got into
six feet; but steering the other way, it deepened to seventeen, the east
side of the opening behind then in a line with the middle of some high,
flat-topped land, at the back of the harbour. Keeping in that direction,
we carried 3, 4, and 5 fathoms; and had 6 in the narrowest part of the
entrance. Within side the deep water turned on the starboard hand, but in
many parts there was not more than 3 fathoms.
As I proposed to make a new survey of King George's Sound, we landed to
take a set of angles upon the small central island; the same which
captain Vancouver describes (Vol. I. page 35), as covered with luxuriant
grass and other vegetables, and where he planted vine cuttings,
water-cresses, and the seeds of various fruits. There were no remains of
these valuable gifts, although nothing indicated the island to have been
visited since his time; and, to our disappointment, the vegetation upon
it now consisted of tufts of wiry grass and a few stunted shrubs,
supported by a thin layer of sandy soil, which was every where perforated
with rat-holes.
From the island we rowed in various directions, sounding the harbour; but
the boat could seldom approach the shore within a cable's length, or the
eighth part of a mile. On the south-west side there were two small
streams, in one of which the water was fresh, though high-coloured.
Returning to the entrance, we landed on the east side, and found a spot
of ground six or eight feet square, dug up and trimmed like a garden; and
upon it was lying a piece of sheet copper, bearing this inscription:
"August 27, 1800. Chr. Dixson--ship Elligood"; which solved the
difficulty of the felled trees and the disappearance of captain
Vancouver's bottle. On digging in this place I found that fresh water of
a high colour, but well tasted, might be obtained; wood was abundant, and
the depth of the entrance admitted of the ship being made fast to the
shore; so that this was a situation adapted to our purpose of refitment,
provided the ship could be got over the bar. This point I was desirous to
ascertain in my way on board, but the strength of the wind prevented it.
The report of the master from Princess-Royal Harbour was, that water
could be obtained at the north side by digging near the shore, at the
foot of the highest hill; but that there was no wood at a convenient
distance. I therefore sent him, next morning [FRIDAY 11 DECEMBER 1801],
to land the naturalists at the entrance of Oyster Harbour, and then to
sound the bar; and not being satisfied with his report, that there was
not so much as fourteen feet, which the ship drew when captain Vancouver
had marked seventeen, I went to the nearest head, with a theodolite and
signal flags, to direct his movements. No more, however, than _thirteen_
feet could now be found upon the shallowest part of the bar; and,
consequently, the idea of refitting in Oyster Harbour was abandoned. The
boat which brought off Mr. Brown and his party in the evening collected a
good quantity of oysters, and of the large fan muscles, from the shoals.
SATURDAY 12 DECEMBER 1801
The wind continuing foul for going into Princess-Royal Harbour, a wooding
party was sent next morning to a bight round the north side of the
entrance, where the wood was found to split better than at some other
places. Another party went to the same place with the launch, to haul the
seine, but the wind coming round to the eastward, the boat was recalled
and a kedge anchor and hawser put into it. We then weighed and ran into
the harbour under the top-sails; and at eleven anchored in seventeen feet
upon muddy ground, at one-third of a mile from the shore under the
highest hill. When the ship was moored Michaelmas Island was on with the
north, and Break-sea Island with the south point of the entrance, and the
highest hill bore N.E. by N. by compass. The least depth of water we had
in passing the entrance was 4 fathoms; but to those who may wish to go
in, the plan in Plate II of the Atlas, and a good look-out from the
masthead, will be of more service than any written directions.
So soon as the ship was secured, I landed with the naturalists; and after
fixing upon a place for our tents, ascended the highest hill to take
angles. Amongst other objects I perceived in the bearing of N. 87° 20' W.
two distant pieces of water, at the back of the bight near West Cape
Howe; but whether they were lakes or an inlet of the sea could not be
distinguished. Our tents, under the guard of a party of marines, were set
up this evening; and in the morning [SUNDAY 13 DECEMBER 1801] the
observatory and instruments were sent on shore, under the care of
lieutenant Flinders, who had undertaken to assist me in performing the
office of astronomer.
Marks of the country being inhabited were found every where, but as yet
there was nothing to indicate the presence of the natives in our
neighbourhood; I therefore allowed a part of the ship's company to divert
themselves on shore this afternoon; and the same was done every Sunday
during our stay in this harbour. On Monday [14 DECEMBER 1801] the
topmasts were struck, and our various duties commenced; the naturalists
ranged the country in all directions, being landed at such places as they
desired; whilst my own time was divided betwixt the observatory and the
survey of the Sound.
Some smokes being perceived at the head of the harbour, Mr. Brown and
other gentlemen directed their excursion that way and met with several of
the natives, who were shy but not afraid. One man with whom they had
communication was admired for his manly behaviour, and they gave him a
bird which had been shot, and a pocket-handkerchief; but, like the
generality of people hitherto seen in this country, these men did not
seem to be desirous of communication with strangers; and they very early
made signs to our gentlemen to return from whence they came. Next morning
[TUESDAY 15 DECEMBER 1801], however, we were agreeably surprised by the
appearance of two Indians, and afterwards of others, upon the side of the
hill behind our tents. They approached with much caution, one coming
first with poised spear, and making many gestures, accompanied with much
vociferous parleying, in which he sometimes seemed to threaten us if we
did not be gone, and at others to admit of our stay. On Mr. Purdie, the
assistant-surgeon, going up to him unarmed, a communication was brought
about, and they received some articles of iron and toys, giving in
exchange some of their implements; and after a short stay, left us,
apparently on very good terms.
MONDAY 17 DECEMBER 1801
On the 17th one of our former visitors brought two strangers with him;
and after this time, they and others came almost every day, and
frequently stopped a whole morning at the tents. We always made them
presents of such things as seemed to be most agreeable, but they very
rarely brought us anything in return; nor was it uncommon to find small
mirrors and other things left about the shore, so that at length our
presents were discontinued.
WEDNESDAY 23 DECEMBER 1801
I formed a party on the 23rd, consisting of the officers of the ship, the
scientific gentlemen, and others, amounting to thirteen, well armed and
provided for two days, in order to visit the lakes behind West Cape Howe.
We walked along the shore to the north-western extremity of
Princess-Royal Harbour, where several small runs of fresh water were
found to drain in from peaty swamps. Striking from thence into the
country in a western direction, we had not advanced far when a native was
seen running before us; and soon afterward an old man, who had been
several times at the tents, came up, unarmed as usual. He was very
anxious that we should not go further; and acted with a good deal of
resolution in first stopping one and then another of those who were
foremost. He was not able to prevail; but we accommodated him so far as
to make a circuit round the wood, where it seemed probable his family and
female friends were placed. The old man followed us, hallooing frequently
to give information of our movements; and when a paroquet was shot, he
expressed neither fear nor surprise, but received the bird with gladness
and attended with some curiosity to the reloading of the gun.
Our course for the lakes led us through swamps and thick brushwoods, in
which our new acquaintance followed for some time; but at length, growing
tired of people who persevered in keeping a bad road in opposition to his
recommendation of a better, which, indeed, had nothing objectionable in
it but that it led directly contrary to where our object lay, he fell
behind and left us. We afterwards took to the skirts of the sea-coast
hills and made better progress; but were obliged to recross the swamps
and force our way through a thick brush before reaching the eastern lake.
This piece of water was found to be one mile and a half east and west,
and one mile in breadth, and appeared to receive the drainings from the
numerous swamps round about. In coasting round the north side, to reach
the south-western lake, we were stopped by a serpentine stream, upon
which were two black swans; but they took to flight before we could get
near to shoot them. After following the windings of this riverlet some
distance to the north-west, without being able to pass over, we struck
inland towards the skirt of some rising hills, and crossed the stream
early enough to walk a mile to the south-west before sunset, when the
convenience of dry ground, with wood and water at hand, induced us to
halt for the night.
THURSDAY 24 DECEMBER 1801
On Thursday morning we reached the south-western lake, and found it to be
larger than the first. Its water was brackish, which bespoke a
communication with the sea; and as there was no certainty that this
communication might not be too deep to be passed, it was thought prudent
to give up the intention of proceeding to the sea side, and our steps
were retraced across the rivulet and round the northern lake. We then
struck southward and ascended the hills to the top of the cliffs facing
the sea; from whence I had an opportunity of seeing the bight near Cape
Howe, and the form of the lakes; but no water communication was visible
between them.
Our course homeward was pursued along the sandy ridge at the back of the
cliffs, where the want of water was as great as the superabundance had
been in the low land going out. Towards sunset, when Princess-Royal
Harbour was still some miles distant, the natural-history painter became
unable to proceed further, being overcome with the labour of the walk,
with the excessive heat, and with thirst. To have detained the whole
party in a state of sufferance would have been imprudent; and Mr. Brown
and two others having volunteered to stay, we left them the scanty
remains of our provision, and pushed forward to the tents, which we
reached at eight o'clock. At midnight we had the pleasure to see our
friends arrive, and the preparation made for sending to their assistance,
at daybreak, became unnecessary.
The country through which we passed in this excursion has but little to
recommend it. The stony hills of the sea coast were, indeed, generally
covered with shrubs; but there was rarely any depth of vegetable soil,
and no wood. The land slopes down gradually behind these hills; and at
the bottom water drains out and forms a chain of swamps extending from
Princess-Royal Harbour to the lakes. Here the country is covered with
grass and brushwood, and in the parts a little elevated there are forest
trees; nevertheless the soil is shallow and unfit for cultivation.
WEDNESDAY 30 DECEMBER 1801
On the 30th, our wooding and the watering of the ship were completed, the
rigging was refitted, the sails repaired and bent, and the ship unmoored.
Our friends the natives continued to visit us; and the old man with
several others being at the tents this morning, I ordered the party of
marines on shore to be exercised in their presence. The red coats and
white crossed belts were greatly admired, having some resemblance to
their own manner of ornamenting themselves; and the drum, but
particularly the fife, excited their astonishment; but when they saw
these beautiful red-and-white men, with their bright muskets, drawn up in
a line, they absolutely screamed with delight; nor were their wild
gestures and vociferation to be silenced but by commencing the exercise,
to which they paid the most earnest and silent attention. Several of them
moved their hands involuntarily, according to the motions; and the old
man placed himself at the end of the rank, with a short staff in his
hand, which he shouldered, presented, grounded as did the marines their
muskets, without, I believe, knowing what he did. Before firing, the
Indians were made acquainted with what was going to take place; so that
the vollies did not excite much terror.
SUNDAY 3 JANUARY 1802
The tents and observatory were already struck; and everything being sent
on board, we took leave of the natives, and embarked with the intention
of running into the Sound this evening; but a change in the wind, to
south-by-east, prevented it. This wind veered to east and north-east, and
for a short time blew strong; so that it was the 3rd of January in the
afternoon before we steered out of Princess-Royal Harbour. It was not my
intention to proceed immediately to sea; and I therefore took the
opportunity of standing backward and forward in the Sound, with the
dredge and trawl overboard; and a variety of small fish were brought up.
These were of little use as food; but with the shells, sea weeds, and
corals they furnished amusement and occupation to the naturalist and
draughtsman, and a pretty kind of hippocampus, which was not scarce, was
generally admired.
In the evening the anchor was dropped in 7 fathoms, abreast of the second
sandy beach near a flat rock on the south side of the Sound, almost in
the same spot where captain Vancouver had anchored in 1791. I think the
Sound does not afford a more secure place, the sole points of exposition
being between Bald Head and Break-sea Island, making an angle of no more
than 10°; and as both wood and water are procurable here, though neither
very good, a ship proposing to stay only a few days is under no necessity
of having recourse to the harbours.
MONDAY 4 JANUARY 1802
On the 4th a fresh gale blew from the westward and prevented me from
moving the ship. A bottle, containing a parchment to inform future
visitors of our arrival and intention to sail on the morrow, was left
upon the top of Seal Island; and the wind having moderated next day, and
the weather become finer, though still squally, we then made sail out of
King George's Sound to prosecute the further examination of the coast.
TUESDAY 5 JANUARY 1802
The refreshments we had procured were fish and oysters. The seine was
frequently hauled upon the different beaches; but although it was done in
the evening, round fires which had been previously kindled, little
success was obtained in this way. With hook and line we were more
fortunate, both alongside and from boats stationed off the rocky points;
and the whole ship's company had generally a fresh meal once in three or
four days. Of oysters, as many were taken from the shoals in both
harbours as we chose to spare time for gathering. Our fire wood was
procured from the north point of entrance to Princess-Royal Harbour, at
the inner end of the long middle beach; but the trees best calculated for
sawing into planks were obtained at the easternmost of the two woody
projections on the south side of the harbour. A good number of planks and
logs were taken on board for making garden boxes to contain the most
curious plants collected by the naturalist, and for a variety of other
purposes. The fresh water, procured by digging near the tents, was a
little discoloured, but good; and it was sufficiently abundant for every
purpose: its specific gravity was 1.003 at the temperature of 69°.
Captain Vancouver has described the country in the neighbourhood of King
George's Sound, and therefore a few observations upon it will suffice.
The basis stone is granite, which frequently shows itself at the surface
in the form of smooth, bare rock; but upon the seacoast hills, and the
shores on the south sides of the Sound and Princess-Royal Harbour, the
granite is generally covered with a crust of calcareous stone; as it is,
also, upon Michaelmas Island. Captain Vancouver mentions (Vol. I. p. 49)
having found upon the top of Bald Head, branches of coral protruding
through the sand, exactly like those seen in the coral beds beneath the
surface of the sea; a circumstance which should seem to bespeak this
country to have emerged from the ocean at no very distant period of time.
This curious fact I was desirous to verify; and his description was
proved to be correct. I found, also, two broken columns of stone three or
four feet high, formed like stumps of trees and of a thickness superior
to the body of a man; but whether they were of coral or of wood now
petrified, or whether they might not have been calcareous rocks worn into
that particular form by the weather, I cannot determine. Their elevation
above the present level of the sea could not have been less than four
hundred feet.
But little calcareous matter was found elsewhere than on the southern
shores. In Oyster Harbour a rather strongly impregnated ironstone
prevails, but mixed with quartz and granite; and in some parts of both
harbours a brown argillaceous earth was not uncommon.
The soil of the hills is very barren, though, except near the sea coast,
generally covered with wood; and that of the plains at the head of
Princess-Royal Harbour has been described as shallow, and incapable of
cultivation. In the neighbourhood of Oyster Harbour the land was said to
be better, especially near the rivulet which falls into the northern
corner; and on the borders of a small lake, at the back of the long beach
between the two harbours, the country was represented to be pleasing to
the eye and tolerably fertile.
The timber trees of the woods consist principally of different species of
that extensive class called _gum tree_ by the colonists at Port Jackson,
by botanists _eucalyptus_. They do not grow very large here, and the wood
is heavy and seldom fit for other than common purposes. Amongst the
plants collected by Mr. Brown and his associates was a small one of a
novel kind which we commonly called the pitcher plant. Around the root
leaves are several little vases lined with spiny hairs, and there were
generally found to contain a sweetish water, and also a number of dead
ants. It cannot be asserted that the ants were attracted by the water,
and prevented by the spiny hairs from making their escape; but it seemed
not improbable that this was a contrivance of nature to obtain the means
necessary either to the nourishment or preservation of the plant.
Amongst the animal productions the kangaroo and cassowary hold the first
ranks. The kangaroo appeared to be numerous, and of more than one
species; but none were caught. Three of them seen by me bore a
resemblance to the large kind which inhabits the forests of Port Jackson;
and the cassowary showed nothing distinguishable at a distance from the
same animal at that place: both were shy; as were the ducks, swans, and
all the birds.
Near Point Possession were found two nests of extraordinary magnitude.
They were built upon the ground, from which they rose about two feet; and
were of vast circumference and great interior capacity, the branches of
trees and other matter, of which each nest was composed, being enough to
fill a small cart. Captain Cook (see Hawkesworth, Vol. III. p. 195) found
one of these enormous nests upon Eagle Island, on the East Coast; and if
the magnitude of the constructor be proportionate to the size of the
nest, Terra Australis must be inhabited by a species of bird little
inferior to the condor of the Andes.
Amongst the reptiles was a variety of lizards; one of which, of the
larger size, was met with by Dampier on the West Coast, and is described
by him "as a sort of guano, but differing from others in three remarkable
particulars: for these had a larger and uglier head, and had no tail: and
at the rump, instead of the tail there, they had a stump of a tail, which
appeared like another head; but not really such, being without mouth or
eyes. Yet this creature seemed, by this means, to have a head at each
end; and, which may be reckoned a fourth difference, the legs, also,
seemed all four of them to be fore legs, being all alike in shape and
length, and seeming by the joints and bendings to be made as if they were
to go indifferently either head or tail foremost. They were speckled
black and yellow like toads, and had scales or knobs on their backs like
those of crocodiles. They are very slow in motion and when a man comes
nigh them they will stand and hiss, not endeavouring to get away. Their
livers are also spotted black and yellow; and the body when opened hath a
very unsavoury smell. The guano's I have observed to be very good meat,
and I have often eaten of them with pleasure; but though I have eaten of
snakes, crocodiles, and alligators, and many creatures that look
frightfully enough, and there are but few I should have been afraid to
eat of, if pressed by hunger, yet I think my stomach would scarce have
served to venture upon these New Holland guano's, both the looks and the
smell of them being so offensive." The animal is certainly of a singular
form; but it is scarcely necessary to say that the merit of Dampier's
description does not consist in being strictly accurate.
The fish caught with hook and line were principally small mullet, and an
excellent kind of snapper, nearly the same as that called _wollamai_ by
the natives of Port Jackson; but these were larger, weighing sometimes as
much as twenty pounds.
Our frequent and amicable communication with the natives of this country
has been mentioned. The women were, however, kept out of sight with
seeming jealousy; and the men appeared to suspect the same conduct in us,
after they had satisfied themselves that the most beardless of those they
saw at the tents were of the same sex with the rest. The belief that
there must be women in the ship induced two of them to comply with our
persuasion of getting into the boat, one morning, to go on board; but
their courage failing, they desired to be relanded, and made signs that
the ship must go on shore to them.
It was with some surprise that I saw the natives of the east coast of New
South Wales so nearly portrayed in those of the south-western extremity
of New Holland. These do not, indeed, extract one of the upper front
teeth at the age of puberty, as is generally practised at Port Jackson,
nor do they make use of the _womerah_, or throwing stick; but their
colour, the texture of the hair, and personal appearance are the same;
their songs run in the same cadence; the manner of painting themselves is
similar; their belts and fillets of hair are made in the same way, and
worn in the same manner. The short, skin cloak, which is of kangaroo, and
worn over the shoulders, leaving the rest of the body naked, is more in
the manner of the wood natives living at the back of Port Jackson than of
those who inhabit the sea coast; and everything we saw confirmed the
supposition of captain Vancouver, that they live more by hunting than
fishing. None of the small islands had been visited, no canoes were seen,
nor was any tree found in the woods from which the bark had been taken
for making one. They were fearful of trusting themselves upon the water;
and we could never succeed in making them understand the use of the fish
hook, although they were intelligent in comprehending our signs upon
other subjects.
The manners of these people are quick and vehement, and their
conversation vociferous, like that of most uncivilised people. They
seemed to have no idea of any superiority we possessed over them; on the
contrary, they left us, after the first interview, with some appearance
of contempt for our pusillanimity; which was probably inferred from the
desire we showed to be friendly with them. This opinion, however, seemed
to be corrected in their future visits.
Notwithstanding the similarity of person and manner to the inhabitants of
Port Jackson, the language of these people is very different. We found
their pronunciation difficult to be imitated; more so, indeed, than our
language was to them. Several English words they pronounced perfectly;
whilst of such where an _f_ or an _s_ entered they could make but little:
Finger, was pronounced _bing-gah_, ship, _yip_; and of King George they
make _Ken Jag-ger_. In the difficulty of pronouncing the _f_ and _s_ they
resemble the Port Jackson natives; and the word used by them in calling
to a distance, _cau-wah_! (come here) is nearly similar to _cow-ee_! The
word also to express _eye_ is nearly the same. But in the following
table, which contains all the words that, with any certainty, I was able
to collect, the most essential differences will be found both from the
Port Jackson language and from that of the south end of Van Diemen's
Land; and the words collected by Captain Cook at Endeavour River bear no
resemblance to any of them.
English. K. George's Sound. Port Jackson.* Van Diemen's Land.**
Head Kaat Ca-ber-ra
Hair Kaat-jou De-war-ra Pelilogueni
Nose Mo-il No-gro Mugui (Muidge, Cook)
Cheek, or beard Ny-a-nuk Yar-rin Canguine
Teeth Yea-al Da-ra Pegui or Canan (Kamy,
C)
Ear Du-ong Go-ray Vaigui (Koygee, Cook)
Lips Ur-luk Wil-ling Mogude lia
Throat Wurt Cad-le-an
Nipple Bpep Na-bung
Belly Ko-bul Bar-rong Lomangui
Posteriors Wa-la-kah Boong Nune
Thigh Dtou-al
Knee Wo-nat Go-rook Ronga
Leg Maat Dar-ra Lerai
Foot Jaan Ma-no-e Pere
The sun Djaat Co-ing Panubere
[* From Collins' _Account of the English Colony in New South Wales_, Vol.
I. p. 610-611]
[** _Voyage de D'Entrecasteaux_, par M. de Rossel. Tome I. p. 552 _et.
seq._ These words are written after the French pronunciation of the
letters.]
The following anatomical admeasurement of one of the best proportioned of
our visitors was furnished by the surgeon, Mr. Hugh Bell:
Full height Ft. in.
Circumference of the head 5 7 6
From the transverse nasal suture to the posterior ridge 1 11 0
of the occiput 1 3 0
From the small rim of each ear across the forehead 1 0 0
From the nasal suture, over the nose, to the tip of the chin 0 5 2
From ditto to the tip of the nose 0 1 0
From the tip of the nose to the edge of the upper lip 0 1 0
From the edge of the under lip to the tip of the chin 0 1 5
Extent of the mouth 0 2 1
nostrils 0 1 6
lower jaw from each angle 0 8 6
Length of the arm 1 1 6
fore arm 1 0 0
middle metacarpal bone 0 4 0
middle finger 0 4 3
femur, from the great trochanter
to its lower end 1 5 6
tibia 1 4 6
foot 0 10 0
Length from the protuberance of the inner ankle to the tip
of the heel 0 3 9
Ditto to the end of the great toe 0 8 6
Circumference of the neck 1 0 6
chest 2 8 9
pelvis 2 4 9
arm 0 10 6
elbow joint 0 9 6
fore arm 0 9 9
wrist 0 6 0
thigh 1 7 6
Circumference just above the knee joint 1 1 0
of the knee joint 1 1 0
of the leg, immediately below the knee joint 0 11 0
of the leg 1 0 0
of the leg small 0 7 6
of the foot 0 10 6
Our operations at the observatory were not favoured by the weather; but a
sufficient number of observations was obtained for all the purposes of
navigation:
The _Latitude_ of the tents in Princess-Royal Harbour, from three
meridian zenith distances of the sun, observed with Ramsden's universal
theodolite, was
35° 2' 5" south.
_Longitude_ from thirty-one sets of distances of the sun east and west of
the moon, of which the particulars are given in Table I. of the Appendix
to this volume,
117° 53' 10" east.
These being reduced by the survey to BALD HEAD,
at the entrance of the sound, will place it in
Latitude 35° 6' 15" south.
Longitude 118° 0' 45" east.*
The mean rates of the time keepers, deduced from equal altitudes taken on
and between Dec. 15 and Jan. 1, and their errors from mean time at
Greenwich, at noon there on the last day of observation, were as under:
h ' " "
Earnshaw's No. 543, slow 0 21 46,69 and losing 6,46 per day.
No. 520, 0 51 2,81 16,72
Arnold's No. 176, 1 0 45,46 9,26
No. 82 went too irregularly to be worth taking.
The longitude of the tents given by the time keepers on the first day of
observation, with the Cape rates, was as follows:
Earnshaw's No. 543, 118° 14' 49" east.
520, 117 59 22
Arnold's 176, 118 1 14
The two first, which generally throughout the voyage showed themselves to
be the best time keepers, were on a mean 13' 56" to the east of the lunar
observations; but by using rates accelerating in arithmetic progression
from those of the Cape of Good Hope to the new ones of King George's
Sound, the mean of Earnshaw's two time keepers will then differ only 8'
19" to the east in forty-four days. In fixing the position of places from
Cape Leeuwin to the Sound, these accelerating rates have been used; and
the longitude has been further corrected by allowing an equal proportion
of the error, 8' 19", according to the number of days after Nov. 1, when
the last observations were made at the Cape of Good Hope. In the
Appendix, the nature of these corrections is more particularly explained.
[* The situation of Bald Head, in captain Vancouver's chart, is 35° 6'
40" south, and 118° 16' 30" east from lunar observations which were not
corrected for the errors of the astronomical tables. The situation
assigned to Bald Head in the voyage of the French admiral
D'Entrecasteaux, is 35° 10' south, and 118° 2' 40" east; but since the
admiral passed it at six in the evening, and in blowing weather, an error
of a few minutes may have entered into both latitude and longitude.]
The height of the thermometer at the tents, as observed at noon, varied
between 80° and 64°. On board the ship, it never exceeded 70½°, nor was
below 60°. The range of the barometer was from 29,42 inches in a gale of
wind from the westward, to 30,28 inches in a moderate breeze from
south-west.
Mean Dip of the S. end of the needle, taken onshore, 64° 1'
On board, upon the cabin table, 64° 52'.
The increase being probably occasioned by the iron ballast in the bread
room underneath.
The _Variation_ given by three compasses at the observatory was 6° 22½'
west, by Walker's meridional compass 5° 25', and by the surveying
theodolite 8° 17'; but upon the _eastern_ part of the flat granite rock,
on the south side of the sound, two theodolites gave only 4° 1' west. On
board the ship, at anchor off Point Possession, the variation from the
three compasses on the binnacle., when the head was southeastward, was 9°
28'; or, corrected to the meridian, 7° 12' west. It seems not easy to say
what ought to be considered as the true variation; but the mean of the
observations at the tents being 6° 42', and on board the ship 7° 12', I
conceive it will not be far wrong if taken at 7° 0' west.
This is what I allowed in tracing a base line upon the beach between the
two harbours; and the back bearings from different stations did not vary
more than a degree from it, except at the _west_ end of Michaelmas
Island, where the variation, in one spot, was _greater _by 3°.
The above different variations show that the needle was affected by the
rocks; and there will be frequent occasion, in the course of the voyage,
to point out similar anomalies in the observations on land; for they were
found to take place upon almost all those parts of Terra Australis, where
the basis stone is of granite, as here; and also in those where
green-stone, porphyry, basaltes, or iron-stone prevail; whereas in the
lime, or grit-stone countries, the needle did not appear to suffer any
derangement. In the Appendix No. II. to the second volume, where the
changes on ship board, which arose from altering the direction of the
head, are explained, this subject of the differences on shore is
mentioned; for they also were not without a certain degree of regularity.
No set of _Tide_ was perceived on board, either whilst the ship was in
the Sound or in Princess-Royal Harbour; nevertheless it was sometimes
found to run with considerable strength in the narrow entrances of both
harbours. According to lieutenant Flinders' observations on shore during
sixteen days there was only one high water in twenty-four hours, which
always took place between six and twelve at night; for after, by
gradually becoming later, it had been high water at twelve, the next
night it took place soon after six o'clock; and then happened later by
three-quarters of an hour each night as before. The greatest rise
observed was three feet two inches, and the least two feet eight inches.
The accumulation was made in this manner: After low water it rose for
several hours; then ceased, and became stationary, or perhaps fell back a
little. In a few hours it began to rise again; and in about twelve from
the first commencement was high water. It was observed by Captain Cook
upon the east coast of this country*, and since by many others, including
myself, that the night tide rose considerably higher than that of the
day; which is conformable to our observations in King George's Sound; but
with this difference, that in the day we had scarcely any tide at all.
[* See Hawkesworth's Voyages, Vol. III. p. 224.]
The base line for my survey of the Sound was of 2.46 geographic miles,
measured round the curve of the long beach between the two harbours. The
other stations whence bearings were taken with the theodolite were--in
the Sound, four; at the entrance of and within Princess-Royal Harbour,
three; and in Oyster Harbour, four; at each of which a point with a
circle is marked in the plan. The soundings were either taken in the
ship, with simultaneous cross bearings, or in boats, generally
accompanied with notices of known objects in a line, or the angles
between them taken with a sextant.
There are many small but no very essential differences between my plan
and that of captain Vancouver. The most important to navigation is that
in the soundings going into Oyster Harbour; I could find only thirteen
feet over the bar, whereas he marked seventeen; a difference, however,
which may not improbably have taken place between 1791 and 1801.