The Manchoo Party.--The Ti-ping Party.--The Ti-ping
Character.--Conflict with Manchoos.--Chinese Gunboats.--First
Ti-ping Position.--Its Appearance.--Ti-ping
Hospitality.--Ti-ping Country described.--Effects of
Intervention.--San-le-jow.--Ti-pings Superior to
Imperialists.--Ti-pings and Chinamen.--Ti-ping Costume.--The
Honan Ti-pings.--The "Chinese Paris."--Interview with
Chung-wang: his Appearance: his Religious Feelings: his
Penetration: his Policy.--Commission from
Chung-wang.--San-li-jow.--A Ti-ping Army.--Its Friendly
Bearing.--Arrival at Shanghae.
About the beginning of the year 1860 the rapid success of the Ti-ping
revolution excited considerable attention. From the unfavourable
impressions I entertained with regard to the Manchoo Imperialists, I
felt very desirous to become acquainted with their adversaries, whose
professed intention was not only to subvert the tyrannical foreign
dynasty, but to overthrow national idolatry and establish Christianity
throughout China. I therefore determined to relinquish my profession for
a more unfettered life on shore, which would afford me an opportunity of
seeing something of the Ti-pings--a resolution which gathered strength
from the fact that Marie and her relatives were about to leave Hong-Kong
and take up their abode at Shanghae.
I had long observed that although the majority of people condemned the
revolution, they were infinitely less worthy of credence than those who
supported it.
The anti-Ti-ping and pro-Manchoo party comprised:--All persons who were
in any way connected with the iniquitous opium traffic; all British
placemen and officials who represented Lord Elgin's politics or Chinese
treaties; all foreign mercenaries, whether interested in the Chinese
customs or army; all Roman Catholics, but especially Jesuits and French;
all missionaries who felt jealous of the Ti-ping Christianity, because
they could not arrogate to themselves a _direct_ credit for its
propagation; and, lastly, all merchants and traders, who, trusting to
make a fortune in a few years, and, being philosophers of the "After me
the Deluge" school, cared not at all for the future of China, or the
vast question of its regeneration and Christianity, because the
execution of those glorious reforms might interfere with their traffic.
The friends of the Ti-pings comprised:--Many humble, devout
missionaries, who rejoiced at the result of their _indirect_ contact
with the Chinese; many large-minded, large-hearted men, who admired the
cause of a people and the welfare of an oppressed nation more than the
favourable articles of the Elgin treaty; all persons who deprecated
Europeans becoming the hired mercenaries of the most corrupt Asiatic
despotism in existence; and all merchants not addicted to
opium-smuggling, but satisfied with more honourable and righteous
branches of commerce.
I thus found that interested persons were adverse to the revolution,
while those who were favourable to it were disinterested. This is no
psychological phenomenon. The explanation is very easy. It was simply a
question of selfishness and dollars _versus_ philanthropy and
liberality. I must confess that, until I became personally acquainted
with the Ti-pings, the reports of their maligners (preposterous and
exaggerated as they were) made me very suspicious of the people they
abused, although I had already begun to sympathize with them.
Before resigning my appointment, I obtained a berth as chief mate in a
small steamer which was under the command of an old brother officer of
mine, who had lately quitted the same service. I consequently embarked
and proceeded with Marie and her friends to Shanghae. The little
steamer I joined was employed upon the inland waters of the Shanghae
district, trading to the Ti-ping territory for silk, so that my wishes
for a meeting were soon to be gratified. The owners of the steamer were
Chinese, though nominally British, in order to obtain a register, and so
we had things very much our own way on board.
The evening before we were to start for the interior, a boat-load of
cargo came alongside--at least, what I imagined to be such. To my utter
amazement, when I mentioned its arrival to the skipper, I found out that
the cargo was no other than boxes of specie.
"What!" I exclaimed, "carry treasure amongst the rebels?"
"Why, of course we do; what in the world should prevent us?" said the
skipper.
"Well," I replied, "it _is_ singular for any one to send boxes of
dollars right into the hands of people they term 'hordes of banditti,'
'bloodthirsty marauders,' 'desolators,' &c."
"My dear fellow, that's all bosh: don't you see if outsiders are made to
believe the Ti-pings to be so bad, they will not trust themselves, or
their money, amongst them; so those who know better are able to
monopolize the silk trade."
"What! are all those reports about the Ti-pings false, then?" I asked.
"To be sure they are, or how do you suppose any silk could be obtained?"
This reply satisfied me completely. If the Ti-pings were "desolators,"
it was certain no silk could be left, or produced, while, if they were
"marauders" and "brigands," it was equally certain no one dare carry
large sums of money into their territory to trade. I was not a little
pleased with this conclusion; before long I had ample proof of the total
injustice and gross falsehood of nearly every charge brought against
the revolutionists.
I received on board about 40,000 taels (over £13,000 sterling) during
the evening, with a Chinaman to negotiate for the purchase of the silk
when we should arrive in the silk country.
Early in the morning we got under weigh, and proceeded on our voyage,
past Shanghae and up the Wong-poo river. We no sooner got clear of the
shipping and crowd of junks anchored above the city, than I received
orders to have all our armament put in order and ready for immediate
use. For so small a vessel she was very well armed with a 9 lb. pivot
gun on each broadside, a swivel 4 lb. in the bow, and another right aft.
Our crew consisted of eight European seamen, myself, captain, second
mate, and engineer; besides four Chinese firemen, a Chinese engineer, a
cook, and our European steward; we also carried a member of our European
firm as supercargo.
The Wong-poo river for some fifty miles preserves an average breadth of
about 250 yards, after which it rapidly decreases, and loses itself in a
series of interminable lagoons. The whole country in this direction (due
S.W. of Shanghae) is flat and alluvial, everywhere intersected by creeks
and canals, and mostly in a high state of cultivation.
The tide being strong against us, we did not reach the last imperialist
city, Soong-Kong, about twenty miles from Shanghae in a direct line,
till mid-day. Soon after leaving port, the Manchoo troops commenced
their annoyance. Every station we passed the gunboats would come off and
attempt to stop us, their crews shouting and yelling like fiends,
sometimes even firing blank cartridge to arrest our passage. One
squadron, bolder than the rest, after we had passed Soong-Kong and were
approaching the limits of Imperialism, thought fit to send us a dose of
iron, and although we took the previous saluting very quietly, this was
rather too striking an example of their favour to pass without return.
I therefore brought one of our 9-pounders to bear, and gave them its
warning message just over their heads, not wishing to hurt them unless
compelled, especially as all their shot passed wide of us, excepting one
that cut a funnel stay. Not satisfied with this, the whole
squadron--some seven or eight--put off from the bank and pulled after
us, each opening fire with its bow gun. Our captain called all hands to
their stations, those not employed at the guns being armed with Sharp's
rifles; and, suddenly changing our course, we put right about, gave a
cheer, and steamed at the Mandarin boats full speed. Directly this was
done, and the Imperialists saw so many Europeans, and heard our terrific
yell, they thought no more of "loot," or seizing us; but round they
went, turned tail, and pulled off as desperately as they could, while
those astern dashed to the bank and tumbled ashore one over the other in
dire confusion and alarm, leaving their boats to take care of themselves
or become the prize of the "foreign devils."
To give them a lesson, we contented ourselves by taking all their flags;
and, setting the boats adrift on the stream, proceeded on our course.
These Chinese gunboats, when well manned, form very effective mosquito
flotillas. They are about fifty feet long and seven broad, are manned by
about twenty-five men, and pull from ten to twenty oars a-side. They are
usually armed with a gun (from 4 to 24-pounder) mounted upon a platform
in the bow, and another in the stern. They are very shallow, sit light
upon the water, and pull very fast; they are also furnished with the
usual bamboo sails, but only go well before the wind. These war-boats
are almost innumerable, being found in large numbers all through the
rivers and inland waters of China; and since the British arsenals have
been thrown open to the Manchoo government, they have become formidable
from the guns they have been supplied with, and the instruction their
crews have received from English artillerists in using them.
When we came to the narrow part of the river, we were exposed to
continual insult and annoyance from the Chinese on the banks, who, not
content with assailing us with every opprobrious epithet in their
vocabulary--the least being "Yang quitzo" (foreign devils), frequently
pelted us with mud and stones. Soldiers, gun-boat _braves_, and
villagers seemed striving to emulate each other in illustrating their
hatred of the foreigners who, having allied themselves to the Manchoo
government, had only just succeeded in driving the Ti-pings away and
re-establishing the rule of the Tartars; placing our miserable
assailants in possession of territory they could never have reconquered
themselves--and this is how they displayed their _gratitude_!
The British and French had but lately made war upon the Ti-pings, having
driven them from Shanghae and its neighbourhood, therefore the least we
might have expected was common civility from our allies; they, however,
seemed to think otherwise, by treating us as enemies.
Towards dusk we approached the last Imperialist station, between which
and the first Ti-ping outpost stretched a neutral ground of a few miles.
As we could not reach the Ti-ping territory before dark, it was
necessary to anchor for the night; but this we dare not attempt while in
the Imperialist jurisdiction. Since the reinstatement of the
Imperialists, piracy had become incessant, so much so, that a silk boat
could scarcely ever make a trip without being attacked, many having been
plundered and the Europeans in charge murdered. The whole country
swarmed with robbers, and the river with pirates; the first being the
Imperialist soldiery, and the latter mostly Imperialist gunboats. In
consequence of this, we determined to reach the neutral ground, the
commencement of which was a small and shallow lake, where we could lay
comparatively safe from enemies, whereas, if we remained on the river,
we should be at the mercy of any who might attack us from its banks,
here scarcely sixty yards apart.
Amidst the curses and yells of the last outlying picket of Imperialists
we shot into the lake, and anchored in its centre to wait for daylight.
The night passed over without any particular excitement, though the
watch on deck had frequently to warn off with a shot or two some boats
hovering about. Getting under weigh in the morning, we soon came to the
first Ti-ping position--a few houses with a palisade round them, and a
gingall battery held by a small detachment of troops. I was much struck
by the pleasant style in which they communicated with us. In place of
making an offensive demonstration of force, and conducting their
inquiries with the gross and insulting arrogance of the Imperialists,
they simply put off a small boat, from which one officer boarded us, who
behaved in a strikingly friendly and courteous manner while pursuing his
investigations. When satisfied as to our intentions, he gave us a pass
to proceed, and took his departure, leaving me with a very favourable
impression of my first interview with a real, live Ti-ping.
After passing several small villages, in all of which the inhabitants
were busily at work gathering in their crops, and apparently much better
off than the Imperialist peasantry on the other side of the lake, we
came to the extensive village of Loo-chee, some sixty miles from
Shanghae by the river. At this place there seemed a large and varied
trade. Silk boats, country boats, and Shanghae boats, were moored off
the village in great numbers, all filled with merchandise, for which
there seemed a good and ready market. The crowds of people about were
all well dressed, the shops were fully stocked, and in every way the
village seemed in a most flourishing condition. One singular
circumstance which I noticed was the total absence of mendicants; though
an ordinary Chinese market village of the same extent and prosperity
would have swarmed with them, here not one was to be seen. Outside the
village, the fields were alive with labourers gathering in the rich and
heavy crops, it being harvest time; while far as the eye could reach
stretched plains covered with the ripe grain, glistening and golden in
the morning sun. In vain I gazed around for some trace of the
"desolaters." If I looked to the village, I saw nothing but crowds of
well-to-do, busy, complacent-looking Chinamen, and great piles of
merchandise just landed from the boats; if I looked to the country, I
perceived nothing but the richness and beauty of nature; yet this was a
part of Ti-pingdom, and all the people I saw were Ti-pings or subject to
them. At last, a little outside the village, I noticed a heap of bricks,
such as the Chinese build their houses with; going up to it, I found the
track of the "desolaters" after all; for this proved to be the remains
of an immense joss-house they had destroyed--not a stone was left
standing upon another; in their iconoclastic zeal they had literally
crushed the Buddhist temple into the dust, for I could not find one
whole brick amongst the _débris_, although it covered more than an acre
of ground. Here and there, amongst the tall, rank grass, peeped out the
mutilated remnants of the former divinities of the temple. I began to
think this "desolating" and "murdering" _à la_ Ti-ping not quite so bad
as some parties had represented.
We remained at Loo-chee a few hours, while our supercargo and
interpreter made inquiries about the silk. I observed but few Ti-ping
soldiers in the village; the six or seven who rowed an officer off to us
constituted quite half the garrison. They were all attached to the
Loo-chee custom-house, and the officer who boarded us was _le chef de la
douane_. While strolling through the village I was astonished by the
very friendly and unrestrained manners of the people; I was seized upon
and carried into many houses to partake of tea and Chinese wine, the
Ti-pings actually struggling with each other to get me into their
respective dwellings. The kindly behaviour of the soldiers was the more
remarkable from the totally opposite conduct of the Imperialist
_braves_, whose feeling towards us we had so lately experienced. Yet the
Imperialists were our allies, and we were assisting them against the
Ti-pings. It was even possible that friends or relatives of these
Ti-ping soldiers had been killed by the British and French before
Shanghae; still, anomalous and incredible as it must seem, our friends,
the Imperialists, treated us as though we were enemies, and our enemies,
the Ti-pings, treated us as friends.
At last, amid the hearty _adieux_ of the natives, we steamed away from
Loo-chee for another village, some twelve miles farther inland, where we
expected to find silk.
Some three years later I visited Loo-chee again. A letter which I wrote
upon the occasion appeared in the _Friend of China_, a Shanghae
newspaper, and in the month of October, 1863, was reproduced,
accompanied by the following observations:--
"At this juncture, when Gordon declares the Taepings to be incapable of
government (he never had an opportunity of judging, or knowing anything
about them, except how they could fight), it is not out of place to
reproduce the writing of the only respectable foreigner we know in the
Taeping fighting service--a service of which, in so far as intercourse
with the Taeping goes, he has had several years' experience."
The letter referred to was as follows:--
"The general appearance of the country lately wrested from the Ti-pings
by the British, and again given up to Imperial rule, cannot be passed
without a feeling of pity for its sad alteration. Throughout the whole
extent of this country, Europeans are now exposed to insult, the natives
being as constrained and repulsive as is usual in Mandarin localities.
Indeed, they are a vagabond and scanty lot, many large villages now
exhibiting hardly one person to each house. The crops alone are in a
flourishing condition--reared by Ti-pings for the Imperial
commissariat--a rich harvest indeed.
"Custom-houses, or rather squeeze-houses, are springing up in every
direction, and the poor Chinese trader is in a perfect whirlwind of
mystification as to whom he ought to pay and whom not. The baneful
effect of all this is very visible. There is an indescribable gloom and
stagnation over the land, and everything on it. Even the birds appear
less happy, for they do not chirp as of old. Of trade--there is none.
The extensive village of Loo-chee, about sixty miles from Shanghae by
water, is the last Imperialist station in this direction. When I was
last here, some two and a half years ago, all was joyous as a marriage
feast. It was a place of much trade and importance; now the only things
to be remarked are a few piratical war-boats, with their usual
villanous-looking crews, under the Imperial flag. Where formerly
exuberant life and happiness were found, all now is wretchedness.
Between Loo-chee and the nearest Ti-ping station comes a neutral ground
of some ten miles in extent. This is almost a desert, and well it may
be, when the Imperialists scour over it. At last we reached the first
Ti-ping outpost. What a contrast! Now, indeed, all is smiling happiness.
In place of insult we meet kind looks and salutations of welcome. Even
the children run along the banks with cries of delight. Poor little
things, they know not but that they may soon be homeless, bereft,
perhaps, of parents, or even life itself."
When the above letter was written, the Imperialists, with the assistance
of foreigners, had only lately succeeded in recapturing the village of
Loo-chee; shortly afterwards I again passed the place, and the only
change to be observed was a new Buddhist temple in course of erection
upon the ruins of the old. A striking example of the effect of British
intervention: the Ti-pings destroy the heathen temples and establish the
Holy Scriptures on their sites, but the Manchoos build them up again,
and exterminate the worshippers of the True God.
So great a confidence had my friend, the Captain, in the Ti-pings, that
directly we came to their territory he told me I might discharge and
clean all our arms, and put them away until we re-entered the
Imperialist lines.
Before arriving at our destination, we passed many villages, all
thriving and apparently doing considerable trade; one especially
attracted my attention--it was a very large walled village, named
San-zar, and seemed to be the centre of an immense commerce. This place
was fortified and well garrisoned. We stopped there and took in a supply
of provisions, which were very cheap. I particularly remember San-zar,
because I found in it the best sponge cake I ever tasted in China. The
village was very extensive, containing upwards of five thousand houses;
the shops were numerous, and at the time I first visited it every
article of Chinese consumption was to be found in abundance. I passed
through it lately--upon my return to England--and found everything sadly
changed; the Imperialists were close at hand, and the inhabitants had
fled away; the shops were closed, excepting here and there where some
trader, more venturesome or avaricious than his fellows, seemed
determined to drive his business till the last; the streets were silent
and trafficless; in some parts the depopulation was so complete as to
strongly remind me of Goldsmith's "Deserted Village."
Shortly after leaving San-zar, we arrived at San-le-jow, the termination
of our voyage, a fortified position, three Chinese miles (one English)
from the city of Pim-bong. San-le-jow is situated within the silk
district, into which we should have proceeded further, but the creek was
spanned by a bridge too small for our vessel to pass. We were therefore
compelled to remain at anchor, and send boats in for the silk. All the
specie was placed in them, comparatively unprotected, only the
supercargo and two of our crew going in charge of it; and yet it was
taken into the very heart of Ti-pingdom in perfect safety.
We remained about three weeks at San-le-jow, while our supercargo was
absent purchasing silk; and during this time I determined to see as much
of Ti-pingdom and the Ti-pings as possible. I constantly visited the
neighbouring villages to endeavour to ascertain what feeling the country
people entertained for the Ti-ping rule. I was pleased to find them in
every instance completely happy and contented; and was particularly
struck by the gratified manner in which they would attract my notice to
their long hair--the emblem of the Ti-ping and freedom, as opposed to
the Manchoo and the shaven-headed, tail-wearing badge of slavery they
inflict upon the Chinese. During my rambles I took my servant, A-ling,
with me, and, as he was a capital interpreter, I was enabled to fully
investigate all I cared for or found interesting.
As San-le-jow was only about twenty miles distant from the important
provincial capital, Soo-chow, I engaged a boat, took A-ling with me,
and, reaching the city, spent seven or eight days there very pleasantly.
I have visited many parts of Asia, but never in my life, not even
amongst people of my own race, have I met with the kindness,
hospitality, and earnest friendship I experienced from the Ti-pings. I
shall never forget the deep impression I received at the moment I first
met them: it was instantaneous, I required no further knowledge or
explanation; I felt a mysterious sympathy in their favour, and, from
that day to this, my frequent intercourse with them has only
strengthened and cemented my first opinions.
The testimony of persons who have themselves seen the Ti-pings is
unanimous as to their striking superiority over the Imperialists. Not
only is their personal appearance infinitely more pleasing, but their
entire character, physically and morally, exhibits the same wonderful
superiority.
All Europe has for many years considered the Chinese the most absurd and
unnatural people in the world; their shaven head, tail, oblique eyes,
grotesque costume, and the deformed feet of their women, have long
furnished subjects for the most ludicrous attempts of caricaturists;
while the atmosphere of seclusion, superstition, and arrogance, with
which they delight to surround themselves, has always excited the
ridicule and contempt of Europeans. Now, among the Ti-pings, these
things, with the exception of the physiognomy, have all disappeared, and
even their features seem improved--probably through their mental and
bodily relief from thraldom.
One of the most remarkable contrasts between the Ti-pings and their
enslaved countrymen, the Imperialists, and the first to attract the
observation of foreigners, is their complete difference of appearance
and costume. The Chinese are known as a comparatively stupid-looking,
badly-dressed race; the disfigurement of the shaved head not a little
causing this. One presents a type of the whole--a dull, apathetic
countenance, without expression or intelligence, except what resembles
the half-cunning, half-fearful manner of slaves; their energies seem
bound, their hopes and spirits crushed by wrong and oppression. The
Ti-pings, on the other hand, immediately impress an observer by their
intelligence, continual inquisitiveness, and thirst for knowledge. It
is, indeed, utterly impossible, judging from their different
intellectual capacities, to come to the conclusion that they are both
natives of the same country--a difference more marked cannot be
conceived. The Ti-pings are a clever, candid, and martial people,
rendered peculiarly attractive by the indescribable air of freedom which
they possess. Where you would see the servile Tartar-subdued Chinamen
continually cringing, the Ti-pings exhibit, even in the face of death,
nothing but the erect, stately carriage of free men.
It is a singular fact that the handsomest men and women in China are to
be seen in the Ti-ping array. This may possibly be partly the result of
their difference of dress and of wearing the hair, but the main cause is
undoubtedly the ennobling effect of their religion and freedom. The
dress consists of very broad petticoat trousers, mostly of black silk,
bound round the waist with a long sash, which also contains their sword
and pistols; a short jacket, generally red, reaching just to the waist
and fitting tight to the body, forms their upper garment. But it is the
style in which they wear their hair that forms their principal ornament:
they allow it to grow without cutting, it is then plaited into a queue
at the back of the head, into which is worked a tail of red silk cord,
and it is always worn wound round the head in the form of a turban, the
end, a large tassel, hanging down on the left shoulder. Their shoes are
of varied colour, with flowers and embroidery worked all over them (the
boots of Imperialists are quite different, being not only slightly of
another shape, but always plain).
During my subsequent intercourse with the Ti-pings I found the above
costume the summer one of the soldiers; the body-guards of the different
chiefs wear their own particular colours, the edges of the jacket being
always embroidered and braided with a different one, forming a regular
uniform. In the cold weather they mostly wear fur-jackets, or other warm
garments. The colours of their clothing vary much, in some cases the
jacket being black silk and the trousers white, and in others blue,
black, white, red, or yellow, according to their different corps. Yellow
is the colour of only the highest chiefs, or of their king. The chiefs
all wear long outside dresses, reaching to nearly the feet, of either
blue, red, or yellow silk, according to their rank. On the head they
wear a silk scarf, or hood, with a jewel fastened to the front as the
badge of their position. In hot weather one and all wear large straw
hats very prettily embroidered, the crown quite small, and the brim
about a foot broad, which gives them a very gay and singular
appearance.
[Illustration: A TI-PING ARMY GOING INTO ACTION.
DAY & SON, LIMITED, LITH.]
The great chiefs, who are titled Wang (generalissimos, or governors of
districts), have a much more costly and elaborate dress. Upon all
occasions of importance they wear their state robes and coronets, and
the appearance they present when so arrayed is really magnificent. Being
almost invariably men of a very energetic and expressive mien, when
attired in their long robes, covered with ancient Chinese designs,
fabulous animals, or fancy patterns, all worked in gold, silver, and
jewels, with their jewelled coronets, and with their gold embroidered
shoes, it would be utterly impossible to imagine a more splendid or
effective costume.
Many of the Ti-pings come from the province of Honan, and the Chinese
say the natives of that part are the handsomest in China. The truth of
this I fully believe, for having made it a particular point of inquiry
to ascertain the native place of every Ti-ping I have met of more than
ordinary appearance, I have invariably found the best-featured were
either Honan men or came from the hilly parts of the Kiang-si province.
Honan forms a central portion of China, and has long been remarkable for
producing some of the best soldiers; but it is especially its _braves_,
who man great numbers of the Mandarin gunboats which are used all
through the inland waters, that are celebrated for their courage. The
Honan people are easily distinguished by the lightness of their
complexion; the shape of their nose, which is high and well-formed like
the European; the largeness, and little approximation to the oblique, of
their eyes; and their superior stature. In a few cases I have met men
not inferior to any race in the world for beauty, while it would be
difficult to imagine a more picturesque bearing than they present with
their dark massive hair wound around their heads by scarlet silken
fillets, so as to form a shade for their expressive eyes and animated
countenances. Some of these youthful Honan Ti-pings are as well featured
and handsome as an Andalusian beauty, their black eyes and long lashes,
olive complexion, and beardless faces rendering the resemblance more
striking.
Upon my arrival at Soo-chow I received the kindest reception, and
obtained an audience of several of the principal chiefs in the city. But
little trace of the former magnificence of the "Chinese Paris" remained;
its present possessors had only captured the city a few months, and the
sad traces of civil war were everywhere around. The Imperialist troops
had themselves burned and devastated the once rich suburbs, and the
Ti-pings, in their usual manner upon the capture of a city, had
destroyed all public and private buildings of the Manchoo construction,
or any that tended to remind them of the hateful Tartar occupation. New
suburbs, however, were springing up in every direction, and a
considerable trade likewise, all commerce being carried on outside the
walls. Within the city itself, the destruction had been extensive, and
numberless workmen were employed erecting handsome new dwellings, those
for the principal chiefs being of the best description. No trade was
permitted within the walls, a very necessary precaution in China, for
otherwise the place would be instantly filled by numbers of the enemy
disguised as traders, &c. In this the Ti-pings have only acted as every
other dynasty during its commencement, all (the present Manchoo
included) having pursued the same policy. Many persons ignorant of this,
after visiting Ti-ping cities, have reported that the inhabitants never
return to them from fear of the new rulers; but we must remember the
late war in America and the occupation of Atlanta by the Federal
troops, who _compelled_ the inhabitants to leave the city; it will then
be seen that the military occupation of fortified towns by the Ti-pings
is much about the same as it is with people of our own race. Outside the
ramparts a crowd of soldiers and labourers were hard at work throwing up
fortifications, while, inside, others were converting the remaining
streets into extensive barracks.
I found the chief in command was the Chung-wang, Le, who for the last
few years had held the supreme position of Commander-in-Chief of all the
Ti-ping forces. He very kindly granted me an audience, and made me live
in his palace while I remained at Soo-chow, although he had only lately
been driven from Shanghae, and hundreds of his men killed (rather say
murdered, for they were slaughtered without the slightest justification)
by the British.
I had long felt a desire to behold the celebrated leader of the Ti-ping
forces, who, until the intervention of England, had been invincible, and
now my wish was gratified. I no sooner found myself before the
Chung-wang than I respected him--he appeared so unmistakably a master
spirit, with the innate nobleness of presence of one born to command and
govern.
For a chief of so exalted and powerful a position, and who, moreover,
had received ample provocation to treat Englishmen as his deadliest
enemies, Chung-wang received me with remarkable condescension and
kindness. Whereas the meanest official understrapper of the Manchoo
government would with the most insulting hauteur receive any foreigner
(unless under coercion, as when the treaties have been arranged), and
consider himself degraded by any contact, the Chung-wang, generalissimo
of some four or five hundred thousand men, second personage in the
Ti-ping government (being only inferior to the Tien-wang, the king), and
Viceroy of the whole territory (at that period more than twice the size
of England, and containing more than 70,000,000 inhabitants), advanced
from his vice-regal chair, and shaking me by the hand in English style,
made me be seated close to himself. He seemed about thirty-five years of
age, though the trace of arduous mental and physical exertion gave him a
rather worn and older appearance. His figure light, active, and wiry,
was particularly well formed, though scarcely of the Chinese middle
height; his bearing erect and dignified, his walk rapid but stately.
His features were very strongly marked, expressive, and good, though not
handsome according to the Chinese idea, being slightly of a more
European cast than they admire; the nose straighter than usual among
Chinese; the mouth small, almost delicate, and with the general shape of
the jaw and sharply chiselled lips, expressive of great courage and
determination. His complexion dark; but it was his brow and eyes that at
once told the observer he beheld a great and remarkable man. It was not
alone his singularly high and expansive forehead, but the eyebrows and
eyes, which, instead of being placed obliquely, as is the usual
characteristic of the Chinese, were quite dissimilar: the eyes were
nearly straight, the only Chinese part being the shape of the eyelids;
and the brows, placed high above them, were almost even, the inner, in
place of the outer, ends being slightly elevated. This peculiarity I
have never seen so prominent in any other Chinaman; I have seen a few
natives of Honan approach to it a little, but it gave the Chung-wang an
un-Chinese look.
His large eyes flashed incessantly, while the lids were always
twitching. From his very energetic features, and the ceaseless nervous
movement of his body (some part being continually on the move and
restless, either the legs crossing or uncrossing, the feet patting the
ground, or the hands clasping, unclasping, or fidgeting about, and all
by sudden starts), no one would imagine he could possess such perfect
coolness in battle; yet I have often since observed him in action, when,
in spite of his apparent excitability, his self-possession was
imperturbable, and his voice--always low and soft, with a musical flow
of language, slightly affected by a wound he received from a piece of a
British shell before Shanghae, in the month of August, 1860--unchanged,
save being more rapid and decisive in moments of the greatest danger.
When I obtained my first interview with the Chung-wang, I found him
rather plainly dressed. Instead of the long robes and large coronets,
constituting the state dress of all the superior chiefs, he was simply
attired in an ordinary scarlet quilted jacket. On his head he wore a
scarlet hood, of the usual shape, surmounted by a kind of undress
coronet peculiar to himself, consisting of a large and valuable jewel in
the front, with eight curious gold medallions, four in a row on each
side.
[Illustration: CHUNG WANG'S HEAD-DRESS.]
While in Soo-chow I became one of the congregation of Ti-pings during
their performance of divine service on Sunday. The Sabbath is observed
not upon the same day as in Europe, theirs being the Saturday of our
reckoning. My interpreter was with me, and translated every part of
their service. Their numbers, and apparent devotion, could not have been
objected to by the most orthodox Christian.
I shall ever remember with feelings of the liveliest pleasure the first
few days I spent with the Ti-pings at Soo-chow. I could not move through
its streets without experiencing the excessive friendliness of these
warm-hearted converts to Christianity and civilization, thousands of
whom were afterwards destroyed by a nation whose religion and civilized
institutions they were earnestly striving to imitate.
Nor can I ever forget the eager manner with which, the moment I was
seated in his house, my entertainer for the time being would give a copy
of the Bible to my servant--waiting impatiently with the book in his
hands till the etiquette of presenting me some tea had been
observed,--asking if it was the same as mine; and his satisfaction,
when, after hearing parts of it translated, I assured him that it was.
The conversation I had with the Chung-wang naturally touched upon his
late repulse from Shanghae by the British and French. He seemed to feel
that event very deeply, and deplore the suicidal policy of those he had
always striven to make his friends. The points of his communication
were:--Why had the English and French broken faith with him? the English
particularly, whose solemn written guarantees of neutrality the Ti-ping
government held. The Ti-pings and the English worshipped the same God
and the same Saviour, and were consequently of one religion and
brotherhood, why, then, did they assist the common enemy, the Manchoo
imps--the idol-worshippers and enemies of our Heavenly Father and Jesus
the heavenly elder brother? By what right or law did the English
soldiers take charge of the native city of Shanghae, preventing him,
their friend, from capturing it, and defend it for the very Manchoos
with whom at the time they were themselves at war?
Neither shall I ever forget the noble, enlightened, and patriotic
designs, which absorbed them:--to propagate the Bible, to destroy idols,
to expel the Tartars from China, and establish one complete and
undivided native empire; to become brothers with the Christian nations
of the West, and introduce European sciences and manufactures--seemed
always their principal wish and determination.
He continually inquired: "Why are the English inimical to us? Have we
ever done them the slightest harm? Have we not always acted with good
faith and friendship?"
"Cannot your foreign nations see," he said, "that the imps of Hien-fung
(the Manchoo Emperor of China), knowing you are of the same religion and
family as ourselves, are plotting to establish a connection with you in
order to produce trouble, misunderstanding, and separation between us?
To do this they will tell many lies, pretend to be very friendly, and
for the time let you do much trade to fool you."
This observation of the Chung-wang's is a good proof of his penetration
and judgment; he only forgot to notice the fact that the Manchoo
government had been compelled to pretend friendship, to allow increased
trade, &c., by the British occupation of Pekin, in the first place; he
was, however, undoubtedly right as to their after intrigue.
Another very important remark the Chung-wang made, was:--"If you take
Shanghae and a few _le_ round it into your protection, how will you be
able, in such a limited space, to dispose of your merchandise, or carry
on any traffic with the interior, if I, in retaliation, choose to
prevent you?"
When I told him any such policy on his part would probably lead to a war
with the English, he replied:--
"Never! unless you reckon upon my forbearance; I have all the silk and
many tea districts in my possession, and I can stop all your trade in a
moment if I am so inclined. If I beat you, in event of hostilities, I
shall then make you reasonable and cause you to mind your own affairs
without interfering in our endeavours to expel the Manchoo; but if, on
the other hand, you beat me, who can prevent my destroying all the silk
and tea plantations, and so removing for ever the only thing you come to
China for, and the only cause you would fight about? My soldiers are
brave and innumerable, they cover the silk and the tea lands."
These arguments of the Chung-wang were perfectly just and unanswerable.
What honest-minded man really acquainted with the facts of the case can
deny it?
With all his shrewdness and foresight, the Chung-wang was himself too
enlightened and large-hearted to hit upon the true reason for British
hostility. It did not occur to him that at the close of an expensive war
which had resulted in the legalization of the opium trade, and had
otherwise benefitted the English, it would not suit their
policy--however beneficial it might prove to the Chinese--however
imperatively it might be demanded by the sacred voice of humanity, to
interfere with the advantages derivable from the Elgin treaties, the
indemnity, and the traffic in opium--the use of which is prohibited upon
pain of death by the Ti-pings.
The kindness I experienced was disinterested, genuine, and without a
motive. Though some persons have considered their striking friendliness
to foreigners has been the carrying out of a plan in order to secure the
non-intervention of the European powers, all I saw of the Ti-pings,
their earnest religious enthusiasm, patriotism, and generally noble
sentiments, impressed me seriously. Before leaving Soo-chow I became
warmly attached to their cause, than which--all my future intercourse
has convinced me--a more righteous, or holy, never existed upon earth,
and I therefore determined to aid and advocate it to the utmost of my
power.
When upon the point of returning to my vessel, I informed the Chung-wang
of my intention, and volunteered my services, at the same time
requesting him to furnish me with some document or pass that would
enable me to return, or travel, to any part of his dominions. The
Chung-wang, after a short conversation with some of his chiefs, told my
servant to inform me he would give me an honorary commission upon his
staff, and then I should be able to act in whichever way I might find
best, and to traverse every part of Ti-pingdom without let or
hindrance.
At last my commission was made out, the Chung-wang affixed his seal, and
amidst the congratulations of the surrounding chiefs I became an
honorary Ti-ping officer. I afterwards learnt that in consideration of
my being a foreigner, and the nature of the commission, the usual
formalities of investiture had been foregone; such as examination upon
the Bible, swearing allegiance to the Ti-ping wang, and to expel the
Manchoo.
After taking leave of my new friends and comrades, I discharged the boat
I had arrived in, taking my departure on board a gun-vessel the
Chung-wang had kindly placed at my disposal. While on my passage, I
observed many people apparently returning to their homes in the
neighbourhood of Soo-chow; I halted at some of the villages on my route,
and found in all of them huge yellow placards, which my interpreter read
as Ti-ping imperial proclamations calling upon the people to return to
their homes without fear, to remain quiet, and lawfully to render a
certain amount of tribute (a little over a third of the Manchoo
taxation) to the Ti-ping general treasury. At the gateways of Soo-chow,
and at several villages I passed, I saw heads hung up with notices
attached, stating they were those of soldiers decapitated for plundering
the country people, one for smoking opium, and another for carrying off
a villager's daughter.
It was a singular fact that about every fourth village had been
completely burned and destroyed. Sometimes I passed three villages, the
two outside ones perfect and the central one entirely gutted. Upon
inquiry, the country people said the Imperialists had been the
destroyers; others said the inhabitants having run away and gone off
with the "imps" (Imperialists), they had punished them by burning their
habitations; while some said the destroyed villages had been fortified
and defended by the Manchoo troops, and so, when captured by the
Ti-pings, had been destroyed. This last I had reason to believe the
correct account, for I noticed in all the ruined villages various
traces of strife, and some seemed to have been surrounded with a wall or
stockade and the houses loopholed; while, here and there, half hidden
among the _débris_ and tall rank weeds, lay some human skeletons.
When I reached the steamer, no silk having arrived, I had time to see
more of the country. In one direction, some few miles from San-li-jow, I
found a considerable tract of land perfectly desolated, not a dwelling
nor habitation of any sort standing, and the fields untended, with the
rice or paddy growing wild.
It appeared this part had been severely contested by the Ti-ping and
Imperialist troops, and between them it had become a solitude. I made
several trips to this locality with my gun, and always returned well
recompensed with golden plover and pheasants, which I generally flushed
among the ruins of what had once been houses. The paddy-fields about
here were impenetrable, being mostly a perfect jungle six or seven feet
high, and full of ugly-looking green and yellow diamond-speckled snakes.
In the villages around San-li-jow I particularly noticed the exactitude
with which the Ti-ping soldiers paid the country people for everything
they required. I was told in one that a soldier dare not so much as take
an egg without paying for it, and the villagers all stated it was "good
trade" with the Ti-pings, because they gave a better price than the
Imperialists.
In a few days after my return from Soo-chow the silk arrived, and while
we were busily employed taking it on board, a large Ti-ping army came in
sight. Some were marching along ashore, but by far the greater number
were being transported by water; for miles, as far as the eye could
reach, the sinuosities of the creek were covered with the sails of the
vessels. I counted the number of boats passing within half an hour at
one hundred, and the numbers in each at a fair average of twenty;
therefore, the flotilla continuing to pass for seven hours, I estimated
the approximate strength of the army at 30,000 men, including those
ashore. Many of the leaders came alongside in their boats, and spent a
few minutes on board with us; amongst them I found one or two I had met
at Soo-chow, who informed me they were proceeding to attack the
important provincial capital, Hang-chow. All who boarded us were very
eager to purchase firearms, and I was sorry we could not muster half a
dozen stand for them altogether. Many brought guns on board with the
locks out of order, and by repairing these our engineers reaped a
munificent reward. During the whole time the flotilla was passing we
received many salutations and friendly remarks, and I did not hear a
single insulting or depreciating expression made use of towards us;
whereas, amongst Imperialist troops it would be impossible to venture
without being subjected to the grossest insult and contumely.
It has been the invariable habit to immensely exaggerate the strength of
the Ti-ping armies, and this force upon the march for Hang-chow was
supposed by Europeans to number several hundred thousand. It was
commanded in chief by the Ting-wang, Prince of the Eastern Provinces.
When all our silk had arrived, we gave the chief of San-li-jow a
farewell dinner on board, he having treated us with much hospitality and
kindness during our stay; and after an exchange of presents (we gave him
a few bottles of cherry brandy, some boxes of percussion-caps, a couple
of muskets, and a few other things; and in return received a present of
some pigs, fowls, ducks, and pieces of silk, a much more valuable one
than ours) started for Shanghae.
We returned to the Wong-poo river, and Imperialist territory, by a
different route to that by which we had left it, and in this direction,
likewise, found one of the most prominent changes in the country--the
total destruction of the idols and Buddhist temples. The desolating
traces of civil war were also more visible.
We anchored for the night preceding our re-entry into the Imperialist
lines, getting all our arms in readiness. Starting early in the morning,
we fortunately caught the ebb tide, and so, after running the gauntlet
past our _allies_, reached Shanghae safely the same afternoon.
Of course, my first moment was devoted to Marie. The relations she was
living with--the poor relations of the family--acted with great kindness
towards us; they were completely estranged from Marie's miserly father,
and looked favourably upon our attachment. Fortunately my occupation was
very much of a sinecure; so, often during the day I found time to fulfil
our almost hourly assignations. Each night I returned to my ship with
Marie's whisper "Till to-morrow" dwelling in my heart.
A short half-month of unmingled happiness soon passed away, and again
came the hour of separation. We were to part--not with the whispered
promise upon our lips, not with the anticipated pleasure of the morrow
in our hearts; but for long weeks, perhaps even months: the very
uncertainty was painful.
Mournfully sounded the last "adios" from the shore, but more mournfully
still the echo that followed me over the waters from the little boat
fast disappearing in the gloom of night, as we steamed out of the
harbour--"adios!"
[Illustration: TI-PING _versus_ IMPERIALIST.]