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[Illustration: Chinese writing]
[Illustration: COMMISSION Received By The Author From HIS HIGHNESS,
LE, CHUNG-WANG (Faithful Prince) COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE
TI-PING FORCES. &c
A Translation [of the Chinese writing on this page] will be found
immediately after the Title page]
[Illustration: Chinese text of the title]
TI-PING TIEN-KWOH;
THE HISTORY OF
THE TI-PING REVOLUTION,
INCLUDING
A Narrative of the Author's Personal Adventures.
BY
[Illustration: Chinese text of the author's name]
LIN-LE.
FORMERLY HONORARY OFFICER, CHUNG-WANG'S GUARDS; SPECIAL AGENT
OF THE TI-PING GENERAL-IN-CHIEF; AND LATE COMMANDER OF THE "LOYAL
AND FAITHFUL AUXILIARY LEGION."
LONDON:
DAY & SON (LIMITED), LITHOGRAPHERS & PUBLISHERS,
GATE STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.
1866.
COX AND WYMAN,
ORIENTAL, CLASSICAL, AND GENERAL PRINTERS,
GREAT QUEEN STREET, LONDON, W.C.
THE GENERAL OF THE CHIN-CHUNG (truly faithful) ARMY,
CHUNG-WANG LE (The "Faithful Prince" LE),
Hereby certifies that the undermentioned Foreign Brother, LIN-LE,
aforetime traversed the country between Shanghai, Ningpo, &c.,
conducting and managing military affairs (or ships of war).
He has traversed the whole country, and from time to time has been
actively engaged, and has collected commissariat (or military) stores,
neither sparing pains nor valuing difficulties, but directly managing
the affairs.
After this he proceeds to Kia-hing (or Cha-shing) prefecture to conduct
operations (with regard to organizing an auxiliary force, &c.), and to
receive and use, from Ting-wang, certain moneys for affairs in which he
succeeded (or may succeed).
We therefore hereby command those in charge of the military posts on the
frontier to examine this closely, and to allow him to pass to and fro
without let or hindrance.
This is an Express Commission!
Dated: The Celestial Kingdom of Ti-ping
13th year, 10th month, 26th day.
"TI-PING _is pronounced_ Tye, _or_ T'hi-Ping; _the first word_, Ti,
_going into the broad English sound like the noun eye_, _or as_ ti _in_
ti-tle. _The pure Chinese tone rather resembles_ T'hi _than_ Tye."
TO
Le-Siu-Cheng, the Chung-Wang,
"Faithful Prince,"
COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE TI-PING FORCES,
This Work is Dedicated,
IF HE BE LIVING;
AND IF NOT, TO HIS MEMORY.
PREFACE.
This work has been written in accordance with instructions received from
the leaders of the great Ti-ping Revolution in China.
Besides an account of my own personal adventures and practical
experience during four years' military service and social intercourse
with the Ti-pings, the following pages contain:--
A complete history of the Revolution: its Christian, political,
military, and social organization; an accurate description of its
extraordinary leader, Hung-sui-tshuen, and his principal chiefs; the
rise, progress, and present circumstances of the movement, together with
its bearing and influence as well upon the welfare of the 360 million
inhabitants of China, as on the general interests of Great Britain; with
a thorough review of the policy of the British Government towards China;
including the intervention with and hostilities against the Ti-ping
patriots, who, by accepting Christianity and abandoning idolatry,
revolted against the Manchoo-Tartar Government.
In writing this work I have been prompted by feelings of sympathy for a
worthy, oppressed, and cruelly-wronged people; as well as by a desire
to protest against the evil foreign policy which England, during the
last few years, has pursued towards _weak_ Powers, especially in Asia.
As a talented writer has just proved,[1] "It is not once, nor yet twice,
that the policy of the British Government has been ruinous to the best
interests of the world. It is not once, nor yet twice, that British
deeds have aroused the indignation and horror of 'highly civilized and
half-civilized races.' Disregard of international law and of treaty law
in Europe--deeds of piracy and spoliation in Asia--one vast system of
wrong and violence have everywhere for years marked the dealings of the
British Government with the weaker nations of the globe."
Entertaining similar opinions to these, I have endeavoured to produce a
complete history of the wonderful revolution in China, and an accurate
narrative of the forcible intervention of the British Government against
it. As this subject has never been properly placed before the people of
England; as it forms one of the last acts of interference with the
internal affairs of another State which was undertaken by Lord
Palmerston's Administration; and as I have had peculiar opportunities of
becoming acquainted as well with the Ti-pings as with the terrible
effects of British intervention in this instance,--I feel it my duty to
afford the fullest information to my countrymen, so as to assist them in
forming a correct opinion on a question of such vast magnitude.
Deploring, as I do, the apathy with which the great majority of
Englishmen regard the foreign policy of their rulers, and lull
themselves into a self-satisfied and indolent state of mind, because of
the _present_ internal prosperity of their country, it is with hope of
some good result that I offer my testimony against an hitherto
uncondemned national crime; and, by illustrating the iniquity of our
last hostilities in China, join the small array of those who strive to
arouse their countrymen from what may prove a fatal lethargy.
During the last thirty years, all the great nations of Europe have acted
in a way more or less antagonistic to the only principle which insures
the peace of the world, viz., that "No State has a right _forcibly_ to
interfere in the internal concerns of another State, unless there exists
a _casus belli_ against it." Consequently it is apparent that the
existence of international and treaty law must be in a very precarious
position.
When we consider British armed intervention in the internal affairs of
the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Afghanistan, &c.; the three
wars with China; the wars with Burmah, Persia, and Japan; together with
the forcible demonstrations against Ashantee, Greece, Siam, and Brazil;
it cannot fail to be seen that England has not been the most backward in
violating the above true principle of international law, nor the least
guilty in following up unjustifiable impositions upon unoffending
belligerents by actual _force_.
It is not, however, with the cases here mentioned, but with the late
unproclaimed war against the Ti-pings, and with the general effect of
the policy in question, that this work is concerned.
With regard to the first subject, it is shown that British interference
has caused a tremendous destruction of human life; that it has been
carried on with fire and sword against the first Christian movement in
modern Asia; that it has been directed against a mighty national
religio-political revolution which in no way concerned England; and that
every incident of this forceable intervention, from beginning to end,
was totally unjustifiable and iniquitous.
With regard to the second subject, if the explanation of the first be
considered together with the general effect upon the world which has
been produced by England's policy towards some of the States mentioned
as those with whom she has interfered during the last thirty years, it
is probable that further light may be thrown upon "two remarkable
phenomena which now puzzle this nation," described at p. 270, part iv.,
of the admirable work entitled "Intervention and Non-intervention," as
follows:--
"(1) That the reign of force, without any real moral antagonism,
is now established throughout all the four quarters of the
globe.
"(2) That Great Britain is no longer honoured and trusted as she
was, her statesmen having lost that moral influence which, quite
as much as physical fear, serves to restrain unscrupulous
governments in a career of wrong-doing."
He will indeed be a bold casuist who can dispute the truth of the above
propositions, or the fact that they are the natural consequence of such
acts as the intervention against the Ti-pings, &c., which have been
perpetrated for the sole object of forwarding our _own_ interests and
"commercial transactions," without the slightest regard for the
principles of right, justice, and international law.
The history of the world proves that every great nation which has been
founded by aggression and the sword has ultimately fallen,
notwithstanding its power and grandeur, through the exercise of the same
illegal violence against itself. Now those who utterly condemn any
political action having for its basis expediency, temporary interest,
commercial extension, place-holding, or any other mercenary or selfish
motives, at the sacrifice of rigid equity and honour, believe that under
Providence England will never fall from her exalted position while
adhering unchangeably to the eternal principles of right and justice. If
the future and the ultimate fate of a nation be not preordained, but are
really dependent upon itself, let us believe that its destiny will be
determined by an immutable law which only rewards or punishes according
to deserts. Then will all who love their country be jealous of its
honour, whilst those who are rather intent upon immediate and personal
aggrandizement will imitate the acts of the robber, who cares not for
the crime so long as he can enrich himself.
Mingled with the more serious parts of this work, the reader will find
much information regarding the vast Chinese empire; the character,
customs, and position of its interesting people, especially so far as
the Ti-pings are concerned. As these are subjects which have come
largely under my personal observation, I have connected them with my own
travels and adventures in the form of a narrative, so that each
alternate chapter should treat exclusively of the history of the
Ti-ping Revolution until both could be combined together.
At present civil war is raging in every part of China, and if the
natives--as represented by the Ti-ping, Nien-fie, or other
insurrectionists--should succeed in overthrowing their Manchoo
oppressors, a vast field will be thrown open to European enterprise, and
the opportunity that will exist for civilizing and Christianizing the
largest country in the world cannot be exaggerated.
A. F. L.
_London, 3rd February, 1866._
* * * * *
ERRATA.
P. 546, _For_ the word "whom" _read_ "with."
P. 689, _read_ last paragraph, commencing at the twenty-seventh
line, as follows:--"Yet, on the other hand, there are people who
have the obstinacy to review this and similar affairs, and
observe that in other parts of the world a very different policy
has been enacted, where it could be done with impunity, which
affords sufficient evidence that the pretended adoption of a
non-interfering policy is neither more nor less than an
unprincipled truckling to strong powers, and an aggressive
bullying of the weak."
FOOTNOTES:
[1] "Intervention and Non-intervention," by A. G. Stapleton.
CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
CHAPTER I. PAGE
Arrival in Victoria.--The Happy Valley.--Hong-Kong.--Tanka Boat
Girls.--Chinese Boatmen: their Evil Propensities.--Captain
Mellen's Adventure.--Canton Girls.--Amusements in China.--Cafés
Chantants.--The Exhibition.--Temple of Lanterns.--Chinese
Character.--Piracy in China.--The "North Star."--Fate of the
Crew.--Tartar Cruelty.--Adventure with
Pirates.--Sporting.--Duck-shooting.--Chinese
Hospitality.--Mandarin Barbarity.--Whampoa.--Marie the
Portuguese.--Marie's History: her Escape.--Description of Marie:
her Excitability: her Jealousy 1
CHAPTER II.
Hung-sui-tshuen.--Clanship in China.--Hung-sui-tshuen's
Genealogy: his Education.--Extraordinary Visions: Description of
them.--Description of Hung-sui-tshuen: his Early Days: his
Visions Explained: his Conversion: how
effected.--Hung-sui-tshuen's Preaching: his Religious
Essays.--The God-worshippers.--Destruction of Idols.--Progress
of God-worshippers.--Numbers increase.--Hostilities
commence.--God-worshippers Victorious.--"Imperialist"
Cruelty.--Bishop of Victoria.--Chinese Dynasty proclaimed 31
CHAPTER III.
The Manchoo Party.--The Ti-ping Party.--The Ti-ping
Character.--Conflict with Manchoos.--Chinese Gunboats.--First
Ti-ping Position.--Its Appearance.--Ti-ping
Hospitality.--Ti-ping Country described.--Effects of
Intervention.--San-le-jow.--Ti-pings Superior to
Imperialists.--Ti-pings and Chinamen.--Ti-ping Costume.--The
Honan Ti-pings.--The "Chinese Paris."--Interview with
Chung-wang: his Appearance: his Religious Feelings: his
Penetration: his Policy.--Commission from
Chung-wang.--San-li-jow.--A Ti-ping Army.--Its Friendly
Bearing.--Arrival at Shanghae 55
CHAPTER IV.
Organization of the Ti-pings.--Hung-sui-tshuen's
Manifesto.--Hung-sui-tshuen Emperor.--Proclamation of
Rank.--Ti-ping Titles.--Siege of Yung-gnan.--Ti-ping
Successes.--Their Moderation in Victory.--King Yang's
Proclamation.--Tien-Wang's Proclamation.--Cruelty of
Imperialists.--Cause of the Revolution.--Chinese History
Reviewed.--Corrupt Government.--Tartar Rule.--Manchoo Barbarity 81
CHAPTER V.
Shanghae to Han-kow.--River Scenery.--Silver Island.--The Salt
Trade.--Nin-gan-shan.--Tu-ngliu.--Its Auriferous
Soil.--Kew-kiang.--River Scenery.--The Yang-tze River.--The
Braves of Han-kow.--Chinese Politeness.--Manchoo Policy.--Fire
and Plunder.--A Chinese Rudder.--Scenery around
Ta-tung.--Appearance of the Country.--Chinese Chess.--Perilous
Adventure.--Crew of Mutineers.--Critical Position.--Gallant
Rescue.--Explanation.--Alarm of Pirates.--Plan of
Operations.--Its Advantages.--The Result.--Another
Alarm.--"Imperialist" Pirates 106
CHAPTER VI.
Fall of Nankin.--Manchoo Cowardice.--Immense Booty.--Sir George
Bonham's Arrival at Nankin.--"The Northern Prince."--The Ti-pings
fraternize.--Sir George Bonham's Dispatch.--The Ti-ping
Reply.--Further Communication.--Its Friendly Nature.--Ti-ping
Literature.--Its Religious Character.--Bishop of Victoria and
Dr. Medhurst's Opinions.--Ti-ping Publications.--The New
Testament.--Monarchy Established.--Occupation of Nankin.--A
Fatal Mistake.--Imperialist Advantages.--Advance of the
Ti-pings.--Manchoo Operations.--The Tsing-hae Army.--The
Retreat.--Tien-wang's Mistake--His Opportunity Lost.--Manchoo
Tactics.--Imperialist Outrages.--Ti-ping Moderation.--The Triad
Rebels.--They evacuate Amoy.--Captain Fishbourne's
Description.--Triads capture Shanghae.--Imperialist
Aggressions.--Jesuits' Interference.--The French attack the
Triads.--Shanghae Evacuated.--British Interference.--Its
Consequences 136
CHAPTER VII.
Home.--Its Desolation.--Intelligence of Marie.--Consequent
Proceedings.--Preparations for Pursuit.--River Tracking.--In
Pursuit.--The Lorcha Sighted.--Stratagems.--Alongside the
Lorcha.--On Board the Lorcha.--Critical Position.--A Friend in
Need.--Failure.--Lorcha again Reconnoitred.--Increased
Difficulties.--Another Attempt.--Alongside the Lorcha
again.--Marie discovered.--Marie rescued.--Safe on
Board.--Marie's Explanation.--The Lorcha in Pursuit.--She gains
on us.--The Lorcha opens Fire.--Safe among the Ti-pings 177
CHAPTER VIII.
Ti-ping Operations.--Chinese Apathy.--The Ti-ping
Difficulty.--Popular Feeling.--Opposed to the
Ti-pings.--England's Policy.--Her Motives.--Dr. Bridgman
describes Ti-pingdom.--His Description of the Ti-pings.--X. Y.
Z.--Ti-pingdom in 1857.--Its Internal Economy.--Lord Elgin at
Nankin.--Gallant Exploit.--Its Interpretation.--Hung-jin arrives
at Nankin.--Hung-jin's Adventures.--Mr. Hamberg's
Narrative.--Hung-jin's Pamphlet.--Hung-jin Prime
Minister.--Nankin Invested.--Resumption of
Hostilities.--"Indemnity" demanded.--Conditions of Peace.--Cause
of Wars with China.--England's Foreign Policy.--The Opium Wars 204
CHAPTER IX.
The Sz-wang's Domestic Life.--Approach to Nankin.--Interior of
Nankin.--A Ti-ping Banquet.--Maou-lin, the Chung-wang's
Son.--The Chung-wang's Palace.--The Chung-wang's Levee.--Ti-ping
Chiefs.--Chung-wang's Appearance.--Council of War.--The
Review.--Cum-ho.--The March.--The Ti-ping Army.--Its
Organization.--Selection of Officers.--Equipment of the
Army.--Its Formation.--The Enemy in View.--Their
Retreat.--Preparations for Attack.--A Night Attack.--A Stockade
carried.--Charge of Manchoo Cavalry.--The Repulse.--The Enemy
retreat.--The Pursuit.--Complete Rout of the
Manchoos.--Maou-lin's Bravery.--Return to Nankin 234
CHAPTER X.
Prospects of the Ti-pings in 1860.--Their Operations.--Relief of
Nankin.--Rout of the Imperialists.--Ti-ping Successes.--British
Interference.--Ti-pings advance on Shanghae.--The Chung-wang's
Address.--Mr. Bruce's Notification.--Mr. Bruce's Despatch.--The
Future of China.--The Chung-wang's Despatch.--Mr. Bruce's
Inconsistency.--Missionary "Holmes."--His Statement.--His
Uncourteous Behaviour.--His Inconsistencies.--Suppressed
Missionary Reports.--Rev. Griffith Johns' Report.--Newspaper
Extracts.--The Shanghae Massacre of Ti-pings.--Newspaper
Extracts.--The Author's Reflections thereon 266
CHAPTER XI.
Ti-ping Polygamy.--Ti-ping Women.--Their Improved
Position.--Abolition of Slavery by the Ti-pings.--Its Prevalence
in China.--Moral Revolution effected by Ti-pings.--Their
Religious Works.--Their Conduct Justified.--Jesuit
Missionaries.--Consul Harvey's Despatch.--Apathy of
Missionaries.--Its Consequences.--Chinese Antipathy to
Christianity.--Christianity of the Ti-pings.--Their Forms of
Worship.--Ti-ping Marriages.--Religious Observances.--The
Ti-ping Sabbath.--Its Observance.--Their Ecclesiastical
System.--Forms of Worship.--The Mo-wang.--Ti-ping Churches 300
CHAPTER XII.
Ti-pingdom in 1861.--Its Armies.--The Foreign Policy of
England.--Its Consequences.--Admiral Hope's
Expedition.--Comments thereon.--Its Results.--Lord Elgin's Three
Points.--Official Communications.--Secret Orders.--Evidence of
such.--Their Object.--Official Communications.--Mr. Parkes'
Despatch analyzed.--Newspaper Extracts.--Official Papers.--Mr.
Parkes' Measures.--His Arrogant Behaviour.--Result of the
Yang-tze Expedition.--Ngan-king Invested.--Modus Operandi.--The
Ying-wang's Plans.--His Interview with Mr. Parkes.--Sacrifices
his Interests.--Sketch of the Ying-wang.--Hung-jin's
Adventures.--The Chung-wang's Operations.--The Results.--Siege
of Hang-chow.--Its Capture.--Manchoo Cruelties.--Position of the
Ti-pings in 1861 325
CHAPTER XIII.
Life in Nankin.--Ti-ping Character.--Its Friendly
Nature.--Religious Observances.--Cum-ho.--Curious Adventure.--A
Catastrophe.--Love-making.--Difficulties.--Trip to
Shanghae.--Reflections.--On the Yang-tze River.--Life on the
River.--An Adventure.--The Deserted Lorcha.--The Murdered
Crew.--"Mellen's" Fate.--Arrival at Shanghae.--Return
Voyage.--Sin-ya-meu.--A "Squeeze Station."--The
"Love-chase."--Fraternizing.--Wife-purchasing.--The Grand
Canal.--China under Manchoo Rule.--Its Population.--The Manchoo
Government 360
CHAPTER XIV.
Ti-ping Revolution in 1861.--Official Correspondence.--Its
Review.--Professions of Neutrality.--How carried out.--Captain
Dew's Interpretation.--Ti-ping Remonstrance.--Cause of British
Hostility.--Mr. Bruce's Assertions.--Mr. Bruce's Second
Despatch.--Mr. Bruce's Difficulty.--His Inconsistency.--Despatch
No. 3.--Inconsistent Statements.--Ti-pings approach
Ningpo.--Interview with Ti-ping Chiefs.--Mr. Hewlett's Interview
with "Fang."--General Hwang's Despatch.--General "Fang's"
Despatch.--Capture of Ningpo.--British Intervention.--Ti-ping
Moderation.--Open Hostilities commenced.--Commander Bingham's
Despatch.--Ti-ping Reply.--Commander Bingham's Rejoinder 392
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
CHROMOLITHOGRAPHS.
Chinese Commission _Frontispiece_.
Hong-kong Boat Girls _to face page_ 6
Marie (_portrait_) " 28
Ti-ping Army going into Action " 68
Silver Island " 108
Ke-tow " 114
Escape from the Lorcha " 203
The Chung-wang's Council of War " 243
Defeat of the Tartar Cavalry at the Battle of Hu-kau " 261
Sale of a Chinese Girl, as witnessed by the Author, at
Etching, on the river Yang-tse-kiang " 304
Teaching the Lord's Prayer in a middle-class Ti-ping
household " 318
Map, showing the position of the Ti-pings at the close
of the year 1861 " 359
A Ti-ping Church " 360
A Mast-head view of Nankin from the river, as it
appeared on the morning of departure " 372
WOOD ENGRAVINGS.
Sing-song Girl _page_ 30
Chung-wang's Head-dress " 73
Ti-ping _versus_ Imperialist " 80
Chess Board " 123
Chung-wang's Crown " 244
Ti-ping Ladies of rank " 324
A Manchoo Squeeze Station " 384
THE TI-PING REVOLUTION.
CHAPTER I.
Arrival in Victoria.--The Happy Valley.--Hong-Kong.--Tanka Boat
Girls.--Chinese Boatmen: their evil propensities.--Captain
Mellen's Adventure.--Canton Girls.--Amusements in China.--Cafés
Chantant.--The Exhibition.--Temple of Lanterns.--Chinese
Character.--Piracy in China.--The "North Star."--Fate of the
Crew.--Tartar Cruelty.--Adventure with
Pirates.--Sporting.--Duck-shooting.--Chinese
Hospitality.--Mandarin Barbarity.--Whampoa.--Marie the
Portuguese.--Marie's History: her Escape.--Description of Marie:
her Excitability: her Jealousy.
In the summer of 1859, I arrived before the town of Victoria, on board
the good ship _Emeu_, and cast anchor in the blue waters of its shaded
harbour. Victoria is the only town in the island of Hong-Kong, and,
viewed from the bay, presents a very imposing appearance, in many
respects resembling Gibraltar.
Like the city of the "Sentinel of the Straits," it is built from the
very edge of the sea to some considerable distance up the mountains
which constitute the principal portion of the island, and is almost
entirely hemmed in by towering masses of time-worn granite, that
constitute a grand and effective background to its princely buildings.
Many of these noble edifices--the dwellings of European merchants and
officials, and the British Government works--in the higher parts of the
town are well ornamented by gardens; which, with several verdant little
valleys in the hollows of the mountains, some low hills covered with a
feathery semi-tropical foliage--Green Island, with its dense bushes on
one hand, and Jardine's, crowned with a noble mansion of that firm, on
the other--together with the multitude of junks and European shipping at
anchor, and those under weigh crossing and enlivening the scene, afford
a charming and picturesque tone to what would otherwise be the
unrelieved massiveness and sterility of the place.
There is one particularly beautiful spot in the "Island of Sweet
Waters," as it is poetically termed by the Chinese, that well repays the
trouble of a visit. It is situated some five or six miles from the town,
and is named Happy Valley. It is surrounded with luxuriant Asiatic
foliage, from the midst of which occasional farm-houses peep out. A fine
grassy level forms the centre of the valley, around which is constructed
the Hong-Kong racecourse, and this is bounded by a broad carriage-road
completely encircling the whole plain; while on the edges of the distant
rising ground the burial-place of those Europeans who never return to
their home rears above the surrounding evergreens its monumental
sculpture.
Happy Valley is surrounded by mountains whose sloping sides are thickly
clothed with vegetation; the trees, although of a stunted species, are
thickly interlaced with undergrowth and an innumerable variety of
evergreen bushes, through which murmur many mountain springs, that
become in the rainy months swollen into torrents. Although a favourite
resort of European residents, I hardly consider Happy Valley a good
sanatorium; for, when visiting it at early sunrise, I invariably found
thick, damp vapours shrouding it, slow to be dispelled by the morning
sun, and strongly significant of fever, and "Hong-Kong fever" in
particular.
The colony of Hong-Kong represents most perfectly the success of British
enterprise in commercial matters; and, what is far more important,
points to the true mode by which Christian and civilized nations may
communicate with the Pagan and semi-civilized ones of Asia.
The less said about the cession of the island to England the better;
for, although in the year 1841 the Imperial Commissioner, Keshen,
coerced by the presence of British troops, agreed to cede it, his
Government repudiated this unauthorized agreement, and yet the British
made that a _casus belli_, and afterwards compelled them to sanction and
endorse the concession. Many people will, doubtless, say that England
was compelled to make war upon the Chinese at that time, in order to
defend her subjects and protect their trade and property; but it does
not appear that either trade or property had ever been threatened,
except through the nefarious opium traffic. The Chinese Government took
the best measures to prevent the introduction of this injurious drug
into their empire, but the British Government laid themselves open to
the charge of wishing to protect the smugglers and forward the lawless
trade.
The colony of Hong-Kong is in many respects to be admired, and it is to
be regretted that the ministers of the present day do not appreciate its
many advantages. In former days England possessed more statesmen and
fewer politicians than now. Of all the blunders which have recently
marked her foreign policy, the late intervention in China is the worst;
there we find neither the courage nor intellect which, in former ages,
by talent, energy, and success redeemed even acts of aggression; neither
do we perceive any desire to forego that system of unjustifiable
interference which is so much calculated to render this great nation
contemptible.
Hong-Kong is a free port, and in that lies the secret of how to
establish relations with the Chinese, Japanese, or any other exclusive
Asiatic people. As the late Mr. Cobden very correctly stated, during the
debate upon China in the House of Commons (May 30, 1864), "We have only
to establish free ports on the coast of China, withdraw ourselves
altogether from political contact with the people, and we shall have a
trade with them quite as much, if not more, than if we penetrate into
the country and assist in destroying their civilization in a vain
attempt to plant our own, for which they are not yet fitted." There is
no necessity whatever to _force_ trade, and when such policy is
persisted in, the results are always calamitous. To apply the idea
personally: How would any of us like a stranger (foreign to us in every
respect) to come and thrust himself into our house, determined to
_compel_ us to trade with him, openly professing his intentions to alter
our religion, ancient institutions, &c., with his goods in one hand
(principally a poisonous drug) and a sword in the other? But let the
stranger establish himself close to our house, without aggression or
loud-mouthed professions of interference with our domestic and public
policy, and then, whenever we become aware of the benefit to be derived
from him, is it not certain that we should flock to him willingly, and
take him amongst us as a friend?
I caught the first glimpse of real Chinese life directly the anchor fell
from the _Emeu's_ starboard cathead; for although at Singapore and
Penang there are many "Celestials," yet their peculiar manners and
customs do not forcibly obtrude themselves upon the notice of a "bird of
passage." They seem, at both places, to be leading a subdued, unnatural,
very un-Celestial sort of existence; and, besides, very few Celestial
ladies are to be seen about. The _Emeu_ was scarcely moored when I was
startled by the appearance of those amphibious creatures, the Chinese
boat and laundry women. The Tanka (boat) girls lead an almost entirely
aquatic life, and are actually born, live, and die, on board their
floating homes. Their time seems fully occupied in rowing, or sculling
with a large oar over the stern of the boat; and this incessant labour
makes them strong and well-figured. Until married, it cannot be said
they are either paragons of virtue or modesty; but when married, or
betrothed--that is to say, bought by a long-tailed Benedict--they, at
all events, seem far less amiable towards the exiled "Fan-Kwei" (foreign
devil), as, in common with most Chinese, they politely designate all
foreigners.
The personal charms of these first seen of the Chinese fair sex are by
no means so contemptible as Europeans generally imagine. Their long and
intensely black hair, brilliant and merry though oblique black eyes,
light-yellowish brown and often beautifully clear complexion, and lithe
robust figures, constitute a charming and singular variety of feminine
attraction. They are a gay thoughtless set these boat-girls;
unfortunately, to mar what would otherwise often be a very handsome
face, many of them have the flattish nose typical of South China, though
the high and more European formed one is by no means uncommon. Through
constant exposure to the sun, they are mostly tanned to a regular
olivaster gipsy hue, and wicked little gipsies they often are,
especially when making a young greenhorn, fresh from his mamma in
England, pay six times the proper fare.
The Tanka girls are free in all things unconnected with their work; but,
as many are purchased by aged individuals, owners of boats, they are
slaves in so far as their occupation is concerned. Very different is it
with their unfortunate sisters, the slaves of the washerwomen, who are
bought when quite young, and trained to an evil life.
It is a usual thing to see, the moment a ship has anchored, several old
laundry hags, each with an attendant retinue of fascinating nymphs,
"taking charge" and establishing themselves in possession of all
quarters of the vessel, from the skipper's cabin to the black cook's
galley. Of course, these little witches make sad havoc of the sailors'
hearts, and generally of their clothes.
It is a singular fact, but no less singular than true, that invariably
upon pay-day the number and affection of these pretty damsels seem to
increase and multiply in a surprising manner; and by the very
perceptible metallic chinking when they take their departure by the
gangway, it would appear that their sweetness of disposition had not
been exerted unsuccessfully.
The boat and laundry women are peculiar to the South of China, being
only met with at Macao, Canton, Whampoa, and Hong-Kong. They seem to
have become a distinct part of the population of China since the arrival
of Europeans to its shores, as employment by the latter affords their
principal means of livelihood. Throughout the year they constantly amuse
themselves in the water, swimming and disporting themselves about the
above-mentioned harbours, like so many young porpoises in a gale of
wind.
Besides the Tanka boats, there are others at Hong-Kong manned by
Chinamen; but until quite lately, and until the establishment of a
water-police, they formed a very dangerous mode of travelling at night,
the crews having frequently robbed and murdered their passengers.
A friend of mine was once very nearly killed by a boat's crew when being
taken to his vessel by them; and although, as it will appear, upon that
occasion he managed to escape, he was afterwards brutally murdered by
the Chinese. But that terrible affair I will relate at its proper place;
for I found his mangled corpse, together with those of his wife and
child, some years afterwards, in another part of China.
My friend Mellen was captain of a vessel belonging to himself, and, just
after the last Canton war, was at anchor in Hong-Kong harbour. Returning
on board late one night, the boatmen--seven in number, six pulling and
one in the stern-sheets steering--soon after leaving the shore, instead
of steering directly towards his ship, seemed to be keeping away from
her. He, of course, endeavoured to make them steer in the right
direction; but with that half-complying, half-defying shuffling of your
true Chinaman, they managed to persist on the wrong course until
reaching some little distance outside all the shipping. At this moment,
and while still a considerable way from his own vessel, which happened
to be lying outside all the others in port, he was suddenly struck with
some heavy weapon by the man behind him, who was steering. Through a
forward movement which he made, the blow luckily missed his head and
struck him on the shoulder. Mellen very fortunately had a small revolver
with him, and at the moment when the rest of the boatmen started from
their seats and rushed to attack him, he turned and shot his first
assailant, had just time to face them, firing again and wounding the
foremost, when they were upon him, armed with formidable knives and the
heavy thole pins used to fasten the oars. In an instant he received
several wounds, though providentially his assailants were too much in
each other's way to use their murderous weapons effectively; but his
revolver being self-acting, without a pause, he was enabled to shoot
dead another, and severely wound a fourth. At this, seeing four of their
number _hors de combat_ almost within five seconds, two of the remaining
robbers lost heart, and jumped overboard to swim for it; the last, a
large powerful fellow, closed with Mellen in a fierce and deadly
struggle. My friend's revolver was empty; so, abandoning the weapon that
had already rendered such good service, he grappled with his adversary,
endeavouring to wrest away the knife with which he was armed.
[Illustration: HONG-KONG BOAT GIRLS.
London, Published March 15^{th} 1866 by Day & Son, Limited Lithog^{rs}
Gate Str, Lincoln's Inn Fields.
Day & Son, Limited, Lith.]
In the meanwhile, the reports of the pistol and the noise of the
struggle had reached the wakeful ears of my friend's wife, who was by
good chance on deck, waiting and watching for her husband's return.
Piercing the darkness of the night with eager eyes, she faintly
discerned a boat in the distance, outside all the other ships, and
naturally concluded it must be bound for their vessel. In agony for her
husband's safety, she aroused the crew, seized a pistol from the cabin,
and set off in the gig to overhaul the boat which had attracted her
attention. The gig's crew pulling fast, arrived at the scene of conflict
not an instant too soon; for Mellen being in weak health, was succumbing
to the superior strength of his antagonist, who, with one hand grasping
him by the throat, was making fierce efforts to release the other, and
plunge the dagger it held into my friend's breast.
Just at this critical moment, Mrs. Mellen and her boat's crew arrived
alongside, and, seeing all the danger, she presented the pistol at the
Chinaman and fired; the ball passed directly through his head and laid
him lifeless at her husband's feet. This gallant act was but one of many
instances in which that courageous woman had saved her husband's life,
and in defending which she eventually lost her own--a fruitless though
noble sacrifice.
After landing and reporting myself at head-quarters, I finished my first
day in China by seeing as much of Celestial life as my uninitiated state
permitted. A sedan chair, the usual and aristocratic style of travelling
in China, was hired, which for upwards of three hours transported me all
over the town. The Chinese--their country--in fact, all about them--will
afford an observant stranger an inexhaustible fund of study and
amusement; yet, as a rule, Europeans are singularly neglectful of the
country and most interesting traits of the peculiar people they sojourn
amongst. They go to China with the sole idea of making a fortune, and
too often in its blind pursuit all other principle is sacrificed. Their
whole existence seems a feverish dream to obtain dollars enough to
return home wealthy; and very seldom, if ever, are any found
sufficiently disinterested or philanthropic to study the welfare and
future of the immense Chinese empire.
At first, as foreigners generally are, I was considerably disgusted by
the unnatural appearance of the men my lot was cast with, consequent
upon the shaved head and monkey appendage. This frightful custom in no
slight degree adds to the naturally cruel expression of their oblique
eyes and altogether peculiar features; in fact, hair is absolutely
required to tone down the harsh and irregular contour of their faces.
While wandering through the town, I was much struck by the appearance of
many Chinese girls wearing European shoes on naturally formed feet, and
head-dresses of brilliant Manchester pattern, in the form of
handkerchiefs, folded diagonally and once knotted under the chin, the
ends projecting on either side by a particular and almost mathematical
adjustment. I soon became convinced that the European proclivities of
the Canton girls went much further than this. These young ladies, before
marriage or obtaining a "massa," wear their front hair cut short and
hanging over the forehead, which gives them an expression between that
of a London street-preacher and a person just dragged through a
haystack; their back hair is gathered together and plaited into a long
tail, which, when loose, strangely resembles the tail of a black
Shetland pony. To the best of my knowledge, the Chinese women never cut
their hair, and their system might be beneficially imitated by
foreigners, for their tresses are certainly much longer and more
luxuriant than those of the women of Europe.
I arrived during the Chinese New Year holidays, which, throughout China,
are celebrated with extensive merry-making. At Hong-Kong the new year is
welcomed with much festivity, and during many days the cracking of
fire-crackers, the roar of petards, and the clanging of gongs is
incessant; which, being continued all night, renders sleep difficult.
I visited numberless sing-songs, or theatres, in all of which I found
the most persevering of instrumental and vocal performers. Some
exclusively confined themselves to musical (Chinese) entertainment,
while others were devotees of the Chinese Thespis, and, of the two, I
think the latter preferable; for, although their principal hits consist
of a tremendous crash of gongs, drums, horns, &c. (which invariably
places the audience in ecstasies of delight), there is not so much of
the shrieking falsetto of the singers, or the scraping of that
excruciating tympanum-piercing instrument of torture--the Chinese
fiddle. The nation has certainly obtained its knowledge of musical
concord from the vicinity of Pandemonium, its idea of discord must come
from somewhere considerably beyond that place.
Some of the sing-songs combined creature comforts with those more
intellectual; but these were permanent institutions, and not simply for
the occasion. These establishments are open free of charge, but care is
taken to have a select audience. The female performers considerably
outnumber the male, and have the cramped small feet. After shrieking
themselves hoarse, in a higher pitch of voice than I ever heard before,
they approach the visitors to receive largess. Now, their manner of
doing this I denounce as the most revolting specimen of self-distortion
and pedestrianism imaginable. I can think of no juster simile than a
frog trying to walk upright with half its hind legs amputated and stilts
fastened to the stumps. Why the deformed feet should ever have been
termed "small" I am at a loss to imagine, all that I have seen being
quite the reverse. The bottom of the foot, it is true, is bandaged, and
compressed into a hoof-like smallness, with the toes all forced into the
sole, and on this the shoe is fitted; but look at the ankle, instep, and
heel, and you will see nothing but an immense shapeless mass, closely
resembling the foot of an elephant.
Whenever the Celestial vocalists have hobbled up to you and taken a
seat,--perhaps on your knees if they should happen to take a fancy to
you,--the polite thing is to order supper for the company _ad libitum_,
and by this means the proprietors and musical talent of the
establishment recompense themselves; for although there is no
entrance-charge, by George! they _do_ make you pay for supper.
It is a pity some of the members of teetotalism do not undertake a
proselytizing expedition to China, for in these intellectual
entertainments of the people they would find a fair field for their
labour. The etiquette of the sing-song is that a man must never refuse
the wine-cup from the hand of one of the attendant sirens, and I am
quite sure the sirens use the strongest persuasion and their most
fascinating arts to ply it. It sometimes unfortunately happens that a
victimized Chinaman becomes unduly elated, and attempts to steal a kiss;
and when this happens, as the ladies are thickly befloured and daubed
with paint, the poor fellow quickly assumes a floury appearance, while
the lady's countenance becomes variegated with irregular lines of
commingled colour.
The Chinese have another polite mode of making beasts of themselves,
consisting of a sort of forfeit game, in which one holds up his fingers
and the other, before seeing them, quickly guesses the number held up,
the loser's penalty being to swallow a cupful of wine or _samshoo_, and
then, to show his superior breeding and capacity, to hold it aloft,
bottom up, after each draught.
The professional ladies are always open to an engagement, and are
usually invited to attend evening parties, to enliven the guests by
their melody and flirtation. Upon these occasions each siren carries a
fan, upon which is inscribed her list of songs, and this is handed round
the company to select from. The wives and daughters of the host are
never present at these _soirées musicales_, for they, poor creatures,
being only upon a par with the goods and chattels, are considered
unworthy to mix with their lords in public. In all affairs but the most
private domestic ones they are entirely ignored, and it would be the
greatest breach of good manners for one Chinaman to ask another after
his wife's health, and would be vulgar to talk of female relatives at
all. Of course, where woman occupies such an inferior position, her
rights are frequently usurped; and it is no uncommon thing for one of
the singing ladies to monopolize a man with several wives.
While at Hong-Kong I had the satisfaction of visiting a grand New Year
exhibition that only takes place once every ten years. It consisted of
an immense building of bamboo and matting, after the general style of
Chinese theatres. The people excel in this style of building, and will
finish one of these temporary structures in a few days, and without
using a single nail in the work. The walls and roof are simply bamboo,
lashed together with rope, then thatched with rushes, and covered with
matting; the whole completely watertight, and strong enough to resist
the wind and weather. That which I visited was designated the Temple of
some long-named Chinese divinity, and was of vast extent, covering
several acres of land. The interior contained a little of every
production of China, a fair sprinkling of European articles, and an
endless variety of shows and amusements. Some parts were devoted to
stalls of raw produce, while others contained every kind of manufactured
article. One of the most attractive scenes for the Chinamen was a show
of models of a great variety of wild animals, comprising almost
everything, from a mouse to a camelopard. Although this dummy menagerie
gave the greatest satisfaction and elicited numberless "Hi-ya's!" from
the astonished Celestials, I am pretty certain that many of the supposed
representations could never have found an original, and I am quite sure
that had a tiger seen the tremendous monster intended for himself, it
would have certainly frightened him. Theatres, sing-songs, lecturers,
quack-doctors, mountebanks, tumblers, jugglers, fortune-tellers, all
were to be enjoyed for the sum of two dollars paid at the door.
The Temple was said to contain 1,000,000 lanterns, and was altogether
remarkably well got up. I met the Chinese jugglers for the first time at
this place, and I must say they are remarkably dexterous. One of the
best tricks I saw them execute is this--the performer, after showing the
audience that he has nothing concealed about him and going through a
series of gymnastics to convince them, will suddenly stop, stoop down,
and from under his ordinary Chinese robe produce an immense bowl filled
to the brim with water; so full, indeed, that the slightest movement
would spill some, yet the trick is executed without a drop falling to
the ground.
While lounging through the "palace of 1,000,000 lanterns," I found the
first opportunity to study that absurd jargon, "pidgeon English." I was
watching one of the most expert jugglers, when a fine, portly, evidently
well-to-do Chinaman came up, and addressed me with--
"Hi-ya! this piecee man belong numbah one. Can do so fashon? ga la!"
More by good luck than comprehension, I happened to hit upon his meaning
that the man was very clever, and his inquiry as to whether I approved
of the trick. After a few more general and equally ambiguous remarks, in
which some of my interlocutor's friends joined and made a worse
confusion, he thought we had had enough of the wizard, and invited me to
partake of some Chinese good cheer in these words:--
"S'pose you no wantche look see, mi wantche you come along mi catchee
samshoo."
Having nothing better to do, and thinking it a good opportunity to
ascertain a little of Chinese character, I accepted his proposal, and we
adjourned to a restaurant department close by, where I spent a short
time very pleasantly--telling the Chinamen about railways, balloons,
submarine telegraph, &c., and receiving in return copious information
upon _pidgeon_ (business) and the Chinese politics of Hong-Kong. My
friends were loud and unanimous in praise of the colony, and declared
it, and all pertaining to it, "numbah one;" while they quite as heartily
expressed their dissatisfaction with the state of their country and its
Manchoo Government. At last, I was obliged to leave them in a hurry,
having a confounded middle watch to keep, and we parted with mutual
protestations of good will, amidst which might have been prominently
distinguished, "Engleman numbah one," "Chinaman numbah one," "Chin-chin,
ga la!" &c.
Hong-Kong is highly appreciated by the Chinese, who, to escape from the
tyranny and rapacity of their Manchoo rulers, stifle their national
pride, and flock to it in great numbers. Those who have preferred
British jurisdiction to the unendurable state of their own country are
mostly respectable men; but, of course, there is another and a
disreputable party. Hong-Kong, besides affording shelter and advantages
to the honest and worthy, has been quite as useful to bad characters and
criminals from the mainland; and as these latter have not been slow to
avail themselves of its protection, the result is that gangs of robbers
and pirates have become located amongst the large native population.
Until quite lately, a walk at evening, outside the precincts of the
town, was likely to terminate unpleasantly, as these fly-by-night
gentlemen were often hanging about with an eye to business. Many
Europeans have returned from a late walk considerably edified upon this
point; some have never returned, for the Chinese marauders are
particularly unscrupulous. A couple of philanthropists one night thought
to relieve me of the burden of my purse while I was taking a moonlight
stroll barely beyond the houses of Victoria; but the arguments of a
Penang lawyer proved so effectual--thanks to Sergeant-Major Winterbottom
and its own toughness--that they were glad to forego their unwelcome
attentions and decamp, leaving a memento of the meeting in the shape of
an ugly-looking rusty knife.
This sort of thing, however, is becoming less frequent, in consequence
of the increased police force; but there is another and a much greater
evil, almost as bad as ever--that is, piracy. The whole coast, for
several hundred miles north and south, is infested with pirates, and the
peculiar formation of the land about Hong-Kong, (with its many bays,
creeks, inlets, and rivers of every description,) affords them a
rendezvous with the most perfect means of concealment. Many piratical
craft carry on their depredations quite within sight of the colony; some
vessels have even been plundered, and their crews massacred, upon its
waters, with a large fleet of British gunboats lying uselessly almost
within gunshot-range. Some of the wealthiest Chinese in Hong-Kong have
been discovered to be in connection with the pirates, and even Europeans
have been implicated.
About five years ago a large English brig was captured, and many of her
crew murdered, in full sight of the signal-station at Victoria Peak.
This case happened to come under my own observation.
The _North Star_ sailed from Hong-Kong early one morning, bound for
Japan, in ballast, but carrying some 12,000 dollars in specie. Her crew
consisted of seventeen persons all told, including two passengers, to
whom the treasure belonged. The wind being very light, the vessel made
but little progress, and towards evening became nearly becalmed about
seven miles from the anchorage. About this time the Chinese pilot left,
and was observed to communicate with a native junk which had followed in
the wake of the brig all day, unfortunately without exciting the
apprehension of those on board.
Soon after the pilot's departure, the Chinese steward brought the
captain his revolver, and asked him if he wished it to be cleaned;
unsuspectingly he discharged all the barrels and returned it to the
steward. At this moment the junk--which had gradually been edging down,
the light airs sensibly affecting her broad lateen sails, though the
brig was almost stationary--having approached within fifty yards,
suddenly became alive with men, although only two or three had
previously been visible. Putting out large sweeps they commenced pulling
rapidly towards the brig.
The captain of the _North Star_ perceived the danger too late, and
rushed to the cabin for a musket (four of which comprised the whole
armament), calling upon the crew to arm themselves as best they could,
and get the watch below on deck. The pirates crashed alongside, and
instantly cast a shower of stink-pots on the deck of their prey, killing
the man at the wheel, and severely burning two others of the crew. Fore
and aft the pirates boarded in overwhelming numbers. The captain ran on
deck with a musket, and with him, similarly armed, the two passengers
and the second mate. At the same time the mate, in the fore part of the
vessel, had snatched up a deck handspike, the carpenter an axe, and the
rest of the crew whatever they could lay their hands on. The captain and
his supporters levelled their pieces, and with care and coolness pulled
the trigger, the caps snapped--but that was all. The steward, after so
cunningly inducing the captain to empty his revolver, had filled the
nipples of each musket; he was, of course, the accomplice of the
pirates, and jumped on board their junk directly she touched the sides
of the vessel he had betrayed.
In a moment the captain, second mate, and one of the passengers were cut
down, shockingly wounded by the swords and spears with which the pirates
were armed, while the remaining passenger jumped overboard. Meanwhile,
overpowered by numbers, and without arms to defend themselves, the
remainder of the crew, with the exception of two or three who escaped,
had been massacred. The mate, after desperately defending himself with
his heavy handspike, and breaking the skulls of several assailants,
received a fearful gash across the face, destroying both eyes. The
carpenter buried his axe in the brain of one pirate, but, before he
could recover himself, was cut down by another. In a similar way all
the crew, except two men and a boy, were stretched dead or dying on the
deck. The three who escaped and afterwards gave evidence, saved
themselves by climbing up the forestay and hiding in the top. They were
part of the watch below, and directly they emerged from the hatchway saw
one of their shipmates lying half under the fore trysail (the halyards
of which had been let go by the pirates while seeking ropes to make
their junk fast alongside) weltering in his blood; this, and the horrid
noise of the slaughter taking place abaft, warned them to seek safety
aloft, while the trysail screened them from observation.
After getting the treasure on deck, and placing it on board their junk,
the pirates plundered the _North Star_ of everything of value, and then
left her, sweeping themselves rapidly to seaward. When the junk was a
long way off, the three survivors descended from their place of
concealment, did all they could to alleviate the sufferings of the few
yet alive on deck, and steered in for the harbour with a light breeze
that had sprung up. After midnight the wind fell again; and, lowering a
small boat, two of the three got into her, and pulled for the shipping.
They reached my ship first; and, sending them on to the next vessel
(H.M.S. _Impérieuse_) for a surgeon, we manned a cutter, and set off for
the _North Star_. We soon reached the unfortunate bark, and then gazed
upon a fearful scene of butchery. The mate and three of the crew were
still living, but appeared too horribly mangled for any chance of
recovery; the rest were all dead, some being literally hacked to pieces.
The boats from the _Impérieuse_ soon arrived, and we took the brig in
tow. The surgeon pronounced every case but one hopeless. Out of the
sixteen Europeans on board at starting, only five escaped; the four
sailors, and the passenger who jumped overboard. The escape of the
latter was something marvellous; while in the water, the pirates threw
three bamboo spears at him, which did not strike him, but even
furnished a means of support. They then paid no further attention to
him; so, swimming close under the stern of the brig, he remained there
perfectly hidden for some time. Being a capital swimmer, he at length
determined to push off and attempt to reach the shore, although fully
seven or eight miles distant. He did so; and, after being in the water
for nine hours, reached land, and was carried to Hong-Kong by fishermen.
During some months I made voyages on the north-east coast of China, from
Hong-Kong to Swatow, Amoy, Foo-chow, and Shanghae. I mixed as much as
possible with the natives at each place, and found all alike heartily
disgusted with their present rulers. Much of the cruelty and duplicity
generally attributed to the natural character of the Chinese is the
consequence of the evil government of the Manchoo dynasty.
From infancy the people have become habituated to scenes of blood and
torture, similar to those inflicted upon their ancestors during the last
two centuries by the Tartar conquerors. Made callous and degraded by the
ceaseless persecution of their authorities; unnaturally branded with the
shaven-headed badge of slavery; their spirit broken and debased by a
system of grinding tyranny; their lives and property at the mercy of the
most merciless officials in existence, and of judges solely influenced
by bribery; "cut into a thousand pieces," according to law, or otherwise
cruelly tortured to death for any rebellion against their foreign
Emperor's unrighteous sway; frequently decapitated upon bare suspicion,
but always if related to a rebel--how can it be a matter of surprise if
the Chinese seem imbued with cunning and deceit, the usual resource of
the weak and sorely oppressed?
Since the colony of Hong-Kong was founded, the natives, through
intercourse with foreigners, have become acquainted with the superior
laws, governments, &c., of those they have been taught to consider
"outer barbarians." This has tended to make them more dissatisfied with
their own national constitution; can we, then, feel astonished at the
exclusive policy of the Manchoo government? Why, seclusion is their
salvation; too surely they know that their power consists in the
weakness, ignorance, superstition, and degradation of their Chinese
slaves. The great Ti-ping revolution proves their fears are well
founded, from the fact of its originating entirely from the contact of
Christian civilization with China.
As for fishermen, pirates, and wreckers, the whole coast of China is as
thick with them as the fabulous Straits of Baffleman is with
monkeys--where they say a ship's yards cannot be squared on account of
them. Upon one occasion, while anchored in foggy weather off the island
of Namoa, close to Swatow, I had a capital opportunity of noticing the
remarkable keenness with which those light-fingered gentry are ever on
the alert for plunder. Early in the morning, before daylight, while in
charge of the deck, I suddenly heard a distant and wide-spread splashing
of the water. At first I naturally supposed it to be a shoal of
porpoises; but as the noise became more distinct, I fancied I could
distinguish the regular sound of oars. Directly I became convinced of
this, I made the gunner load a couple of guns, and turned all hands out.
In a few minutes the fog cleared a little with the dawn of day, and I
was able to discern an innumerable fleet of boats pulling and sailing
rapidly towards the ship. I had scarcely discovered them when they
suddenly ceased rowing, and rested on their oars, having, I fancy,
perceived the smoke issuing from our funnel. Seeing their hesitation, we
gave them a blank cartridge, and this, with the noise of our men at the
capstan weighing anchor, frightened them off; for they immediately
"topped their booms," and soon disappeared in the surrounding mist.
In the neighbourhood of Swatow the people are much excited against their
government, and at one place--within twenty miles of that city--they
have been in open rebellion for many years. The Viceroy of the province
having several times had his troops defeated by them, found it much
easier to make an arrangement by which they were to govern themselves,
while nominally under the Manchoo _régime_; therefore, at the present
day, the Goo-swah men, who inhabit a mountainous part of the sea-coast,
live, to a certain extent, independent of the Manchoo rule.
While thinking of the north-east coast, I must not forget the capital
shooting I have had at Foo-chow. Wild water-fowl are found at this port
in vast quantity, in fact, in numbers such as I have never seen equalled
in any part of Europe, Asia, Africa, or America, that I have visited.
The whole river and surrounding country literally swarm with an infinite
variety of wild swan, geese, duck, curlew, and water-fowl of every
description. During six months of the year, sometimes more, this game is
found in plenty, generally appearing about the commencement of October,
and departing by the end of March. The best shooting-ground about
Foo-chow was the false mouth of the river and the adjacent country. This
became my favourite haunt, and comprised a broad sheet of shallow water
full of mud and sand-banks; low land on each side, marshy and
intersected by creeks and canals, with many bamboo or reed swamps, and
here and there a few hills. I generally started from the ship, at the
anchorage, about midnight, in a covered native boat, with two or three
Chinamen to work her, my Chinese boy, and a Malay, as body-guard and
general assistant in the work of slaughter upon the feathery tribe.
Reaching my destination generally before daylight, I had ample time to
make all preparations, amidst the quacking of ducks and the constant
rushing sound of innumerable wings. At the earliest peep of dawn, or a
little before, I got ashore upon the sand-bank to which the boat might
be fastened, and almost always found myself within shot of immense
flocks of wild fowl.
Sometimes I had the misfortune to land upon a bank of treacherous
consistency, and upon such occasions became stuck fast in the mud; and
Chinese mud is of a wonderful stickiness and tenacity, as those who have
had experience of it can well testify. There is often considerable
danger in such a fix, for every effort to extricate oneself simply tends
to make a deeper immersion. The only sure plan is to use a plank on the
surface of the mud; so that I always carried several with me for
emergencies of such a muddy nature. For the first shot I usually had a
long musket, loaded with grape cartridge, and a wire one; the effect of
this amongst a closely packed flock, often within sixty yards, may be
easily imagined. I frequently bagged five or six brace of duck, or
several geese, as a commencement. The swans and geese were generally
off, after the first alarm; but I often had several shots, with the
double-barrel which my Malay carried after me, amongst the ducks or
teal. As for snipe and curlew, I have many a time seated myself in the
centre of a sand-bank, and, with the Malay loading my guns as fast as he
could, kept up an incessant fire upon them in flocks eddying round and
round the shoal, but unwilling to leave it, until the rising tide
compelled their flight, or my guns exterminated them. After this
I would return to the boat for "Chow-chow," and when it was despatched,
cross over to the mainland, probably getting a few brace of widgeon
on the way. Early morning, or about twilight, I always found the best
time for sport; during the day the birds are very wild. I have tried
all sorts of dodges to get close. I have dressed as a Chinese
field-labourer--umbrella hat, rush waterproof, and everything; but
although such a Chinaman can be seen working within thirty yards of the
birds, I could never get so close by a long way. The abundance of game
about Foo-Chow is almost incredible. I have sometimes shot curlew in
the dark, guided by the noise they made, and finding them by the cries
of a wounded bird. I have shot wild swans so large, that when a Chinaman
carried one with the head over his shoulder, its feet draggled on the
ground; and very seldom returned to my ship without a boat literally
loaded with spoil.
During shooting excursions and my frequent intercourse with the Chinese
country people, I have nearly always found them exhibiting traits of
character we give them little credit for; but only when they are
completely by themselves, and none of the Manchoo troops, officials, or
_employés_ of any description are in the vicinity, have I found them
particularly friendly to foreigners--very inquisitive, although not so
outwardly, by reason of their great politeness and calm behaviour;
hospitable and obliging. To qualify this, yet to render still more
interesting the _natural_ disposition of the people, it is easily
perceived they have a sort of undefined dread of, and dislike to us,
caused by the lying teaching and bitterly hostile reports circulated by
the entire body of Manchoo officials concerning the "foreign devils,"
which, for my part, I have always done my best to expose wherever I have
wandered amongst the deeply interesting natives. But few Europeans are
aware of the entire misrepresentations the Manchoo Government circulate
about foreigners, much less of the monstrous atrocities attributed to
them; and I dare say, if propriety allowed me to mention some I have
been told by the Chinese, most people would disbelieve them, especially
since the British Government has entered into _alliance_ with the
Manchoos.
I was eye-witness to a fearful specimen of the so-called "paternal"
Government's displeasure at Foo-chow some years since. It appears the
Viceroy of Fu-keen issued an edict to prevent the Cantonese ascending
the river to trade, for some fault they had committed. Before, however,
this edict could have become generally known, three Canton lorchas
sailed up the river laden with merchandise. They were fired upon by the
batteries about the mouth of the river, yet, regardless of this (for the
Cantonese are a brave, obstinate race), they passed up and arrived
within a short distance of the European shipping. At this point, about
sixty of the Mandarin gunboats (row-galleys), without any warning or
communication whatever, opened fire upon and pulled for the lorchas.
Apparently, the first two allowed them to board unresistingly; and this
no sooner took place than a savage slaughter of their helpless crews
commenced. Some were cut down and brutally mutilated upon the decks,
their heads being chopped off and their bodies thrown overboard; others
jumped into the river, only to be there killed by the soldiers in the
gunboats, who followed them wherever they swam, spearing them, and
thrusting them under water. The crew of the third lorcha, seeing the
terrible fate of their comrades, endeavoured to prevent the government
troops from boarding, and made a gallant resistance. Their defence,
however, though desperate, was unavailing. The gunboats surrounded them,
and poured in showers of grape and canister; the lorcha had but three
guns of small calibre to reply with, and soon lost so many men that
those remaining could no longer beat the enemy off. At last, being
boarded, some of her defenders jumped overboard, and the rest, fighting
and disputing inch by inch, were quickly dispatched. Some of the
European shipping sent boats to try and rescue the poor wretches from
the water, and, fortunately, managed to save a few. Thus, for breaking a
proclamation of which, very probably, they were ignorant, these
unfortunate men were all massacred, and the ships, with their cargo,
confiscated to the Mandarins.
After some voyages upon the coast, my vessel was ordered to Whampoa, to
be dry-docked and her bottom overhauled. Before entering the dock, and
while lying at anchor on the river, I was one evening surprised to see
a san-pan (literally three planks, _i.e._ a little boat) containing two
Chinese girls, and a third, neither Chinese nor European, hanging about
the ship; its occupants evidently desirous to communicate something, yet
half fearful to venture. The lady of the unknown nationality seemed
endeavouring to attract my attention. I was alone on the quarter-deck,
with the exception of an old weather-beaten quartermaster. I beckoned
her to come alongside, and descended the gangway ladder. As I was going
over the side, the old quartermaster came up to me and exclaimed--
"Keep your weather eye lifting, sir; she's a pi-ar Portuguee."
"Well," I replied; "what if she is?"
"Well, d'ye see, sir, them Portugees is awful wild craft. I've got a
remembrancer here," touching his ribs; "one of 'em gave me in Rio, just
because she thought I was backing and filling with a chum of hers."
"If a Rio girl fell in love with you, and you made her jealous, you old
sinner, what has that to do with a Whampoa girl? Besides, we shall have
no time for falling in love here."
"Ay! ay! you don't know 'em, sir; the breed's the same all over; and, as
for time, why, they'll be in love with you afore you can say 'vast
heaving there."
"You're out of your reckoning for once, quartermaster; call Mr. ----, if
I am not on board by eight bells;" and with this I disappeared over the
side.
Directly I jumped into the boat, it was shoved off, and dropped astern
with the tide.
My attention was, of course, directed to the lady designated a "pi-ar
Portuguee" by the quartermaster; I at once discovered that she was a
Macao Portuguese, very handsome; and, to all appearance, in great
affliction. For some time she made no reply to my inquiries as to what
was the matter, but commenced sobbing, and crying as if her heart would
break. At last she ceased, and related the cause of her trouble to the
following effect:--She was the daughter of a rich Macanese, who was
principal owner of one of the Whampoa docks, and was also Portuguese
consul at that port. Her mother was dead, and her father had determined
to compel her to marry a wealthy Chilianian half-caste; in fact,
everything was arranged for the marriage to take place in ten days'
time. She hated the fellow, in spite of his dollars, which, it appeared,
was her father's idol, and was resolved to suffer anything rather than
submit. She came off to my ship to try and obtain a passage down to
Hong-Kong, where she had friends who would take care of her. Here was
the deuce to pay, and no pitch hot, as the sailors say. In a moment,
almost, I was to become the champion and protector of this forlorn
damsel. However selfishly I tried to reflect, I could not help being
sensibly impressed with her extreme beauty and utter wretchedness. The
_piquante_ style of her pretty broken English, as she implored me to
give her a passage to Hong-Kong and save her; the knowledge of the cruel
fate which awaited her--the entire confidence which she was only too
willing to repose in me--her unprotected position and passionate,
ingenuous, ebullition of feeling--all conspired to interest me deeply in
her favour.
The longer I listened the more interested and determined to help her I
became. She was very young, and it seemed irresistible to sympathize
with and pity her. At last, in the midst of a protestation of assistance
on my part, and of fervent thanks on hers, we were interrupted by one of
the China girls thrusting her head under the mat cover of the boat, and
exclaiming--
"Hi ya! missee! more bettah go shore,--belong shih tim cheong" (ten
o'clock).
The poor girl seemed quite alarmed to find it so late, and told the
boatwomen to pull ashore as fast as possible.
We soon reached the bank, but my interesting friend would not allow me
to land with her, stating she lived close by; however, she promised to
meet me at the spot we then occupied, the next evening. The China girls
quickly pulled me off to my ship, and then I was alone to think over the
singularity and probable issue of the adventure.
Poor Marie! would that I had never met her--that she had accepted the
Chilianian, or some prophetic spirit had whispered a warning in time to
save her from her sad fate. However, it was ordained otherwise, and all
that is left me is her memory. True to her promise, she saw me the
following evening; then the next; and so for several consecutive days.
It happened that, fortunately for the fulfilment of our appointments,
Marie's father never returned from the docks, at the opposite side of
the river, till late in the evening. We were thus constantly thrown
together, and who can wonder that we insensibly allowed ourselves to
become deeply attached?
Upon the ninth day after our first meeting, my ship was undocked, and
prepared to sail for Hong-Kong in the morning; the morning, too, that,
as Marie told me with tears in her eyes, would usher in her bridal day.
Although Marie and I had never till then spoken of love, we both knew
that it was mutual, and at this moment of peril and uncertainty we threw
off all disguise and expressed our true feelings for each other. She
felt no regret at sacrificing all other ties for my sake--I was but too
anxious to risk anything to save her. On the evening of this, the last
day that was to separate us, Marie entered her cruel father's dwelling
for the last time; and, having quickly made some slight preparations,
rejoined me in the boat with which I awaited her.
This boat was the same in which I had first seen her, and the poor girls
who worked it being slaves of one of the old Whampoa laundresses, I
determined to rescue them from their doubtful future, and prevent them
making any disclosure as to Marie's escape, by carrying them down to
Hong-Kong with her, and there giving them liberty.
I had already made every preparation on board, and had taken the gunner
and carpenter into my confidence, as I had decided to stow them away in
the sail-room; and to do this rendered it necessary for them to pass the
berths of those officers. About midnight, sending the quartermaster of
the watch off the deck upon an errand to get him out of the way, I
smuggled the girls aboard and secreted them at the back of the sail-room
well hidden by spare topsails, &c., piled up before them.
Early in the morning we lighted fires, and soon after daybreak, with
steam up, commenced to get under weigh. Just then, as I fully expected,
off came Marie's father and the old laundress--the one to look for a
daughter who vanished on her bridal morn, the other for her poor slave
girls--with warrants from the British consul for the delivery of the
three girls if found on board. I was in charge of the deck, and took
care to receive the bereaved parties at the gangway. After hearing their
complaints, I reported the case to the captain, and received his orders
to have the ship searched. This duty I took upon myself, rousing all
hands out, and searching every part of the ship except the sail-room,
which I took care to allow no one to approach. By the time the
unsuccessful search was concluded, the anchor had been weighed, and we
immediately commenced to drop down the river.
When we reached Hong-Kong, Marie landed and went to reside with her
friends. She had become my betrothed, and seemed truly happy in the
thought that nothing now could cause our separation. Little either of us
thought at that happy time how ruthlessly all these bright prospects
would be altered, and what sadness was yet in store for us. Alas! how
little at that happy time either thought how soon the ruthless destroyer
would annihilate a bond we had sworn should last for ever.
Marie was very lovely. Rather darker than the generality of Macao
women; her complexion was a beautifully clear deep olive; the skin
delicately soft, with the rich blood mantling through upon the slightest
emotion; her eyes large, jet-black, lustrous, and almond-shaped, as
those of the Spanish creoles of South America--eyes which can form a
language of their own, so deeply expressive, so ever changeful, and
heart-speaking--were exquisitely fringed with long silken lashes and
arching brows; her hair, dark as the raven's wing, waved in rich
profusion round her finely tapered shoulders; the Grecian nose and
delicately formed nostrils spoke of her high caste; while a short full
upper lip, so richly coloured, adorned a mouth small but singularly
expressive, and studded with teeth of pearly whiteness. This young
creature, nurtured in a southern clime, could scarcely number sixteen
summers, and yet her _petite_ figure, lithe and graceful as it was, had
attained its full development. She was, in truth, an unsophisticated
child of nature--ardent, passionate--the very creature of impulse.
In a small secluded dwelling, shaded by evergreen foliage, in one of the
prettiest parts of Hong-Kong, every moment I could spare from my ship
was devoted to Marie. We were supremely happy. We had no thought or care
for the morrow, we were too fully absorbed in the present. The old
quartermaster's warning proved his experience, although, with one
exception, it was unnecessary in my case, yet the exception was
sufficient.
To many of those warm impassioned temperaments of the East love becomes
as necessary as life itself. Marie was one of these. Natures like hers
could be moulded by love to any form. The house of Marie's relatives was
one of two built together; but for this it would have been in total
seclusion, the bend of the hills it rested on hiding all other buildings
in the distance, and entirely screening it from observation. The next
door and only neighbours consisted of two Portuguese sisters and an
Englishman, the husband of the eldest.
[Illustration: MARIE.
London, Published March 15^{th} 1866 by Day & Son, Limited Lithog^{rs}
Gate Str, Lincoln's Inn Fields.
Day & Son, Limited, Lith.]
The Portuguese being natives of Macao, were slightly acquainted with
Marie, and we gradually became intimate with them. The youngest of the
sisters was very good-looking, and being of a very merry disposition, we
often had great fun. Now, it so happened that Marie's love was so
intense, so selfish, and so exacting, she could not bear me to pay the
slightest attention to another. So at last, to realize the old adage,
that "true love never did run smooth," she took it into her passionate
little head to become jealous. This jealousy may be a very mild affair
amongst our colder Northern women, but with a fiery little piece of
impetuosity like Marie it was more serious. With such temperaments,
jealousy instantly generates an all-consuming passion for revenge.
For a little while I had noticed Marie's more than usual excitability,
accompanied by occasional bursts of grief, without any apparent cause;
but, knowing her extreme sensitiveness, I thought but little of it. At
last the cause was revealed, and this history nearly terminated in its
revelation.
The house had a verandah in front, connecting it with that adjoining,
from which it was simply divided by a wooden partition. One evening I
and Theresa, the unmarried Portuguese, were conversing from the
respective balconies. I fancied Marie had received me rather crossly
that day, and to vex her thought I would have a little fun with her
pretty neighbour. This thoughtlessness very nearly resulted in a
tragical termination. After laughing and chatting with Theresa for some
time, I went close up to the partition between the verandahs; and,
leaning round it, pretended to kiss her. Instantly I heard Marie, with
an exclamation, rush towards me. As I withdrew, I fortunately caught the
shadow of an uplifted hand on my own side of the partition; and, while
turning, I rapidly threw up my arm, just in time to arrest the
descending blow, aimed by Marie with a stiletto. I received but a
slight scratch, and soon took the weapon from my fierce little love, who
instantly, with characteristic revulsion of feeling, threw herself into
my arms in a passionate burst of grief. We were soon reconciled; this
was Marie's first and last jealousy.
[Illustration: SING-SONG GIRL--_page_ 10.]