PRUNING.
The pruning of the pecan is neither difficult nor complicated. In short,
after the top of the tree is well started, little need be done except to
cut back a branch here and there that the trees may develop
well-rounded, symmetrical tops. A splendid type of tree is shown in
Plate VI.
HIGH VS. LOW-HEADED TREES.
Frequently trees are so pruned that their first branches are eight or
ten feet from the ground. Even young trees are pruned to slim stems,
surmounted by a small umbrella-like top. Such trees frequently have to
be tied to a post to keep them upright until such time as they attain
sufficient size to support themselves. Such pruning should not be
countenanced. The trees will make a much more rapid and satisfactory
growth, and their trunks will be less affected by the hot sun, if the
branches are allowed to develop lower down. Sometimes the system of
pruning pecans with tall, bare trunks is adopted to allow of crops being
grown under the trees, or because it is desired to use the ground as a
cattle pasture. These considerations should not weigh against the
welfare of the trees. As much ground can be cropped around low-headed
trees as is good for them, and, in brief, the cows should be pastured
elsewhere.
Ordinarily the top of the tree should be so shaped that the lower
branches will be about four feet from the ground. The trunk will be
shaded and protected, the crop will be nearer the ground, and the low
tops will be less subject to the destructive force of heavy winds, so
injurious to both fruit and branches.
To start the trees at four feet, the tops must be cut back to that
height at the time the trees are set, or, if smaller, when they have
grown to that height. Three or four buds nearest the top should then be
allowed to develop and form the main framework of the tree. After this
the trees will need little or no pruning, except the cutting back of
straggling branches, and the removal of dead or broken ones.
Some writers have advised the persistent and severe cutting back of the
tops, from time to time, so as to keep them small, compact and low, but
such a system of pruning must be put into practice on a considerable
scale for a number of years before it can be recommended. Such a plan
might prove valuable where the trees are subject to the force of strong
winds, but otherwise it is of doubtful value.
TIME TO PRUNE.
Pruning may be done at any convenient time, but the best period is
probably either just before the flow of sap in spring, or just after the
trees have fully developed their leaves in spring. Following the removal
of branches of any considerable size--three-quarters of an inch and
upward--the wounds should be carefully painted over with white lead
paint to prevent decay.
CARE OF BROKEN TREES.
When trees are broken or injured by wind-storms, the broken branches
should be cut off and the resulting wounds carefully trimmed and
painted. If the branches are only partly split off, the injury may be
repaired, in many cases, by pressing the branch back into place and
bolting it there, so as to hold it firmly in place. Trees with forked
trunks should be protected by passing a bolt through the two branches
some distance above where they divide to prevent splitting.
NURSERY ROOT-PRUNING.
Too frequently the root system of pecan trees, intended for planting, is
but poorly developed. The root consists almost entirely of one large
taproot destitute of laterals. Such trees are slow in starting and are
hard to transplant. Figure 33 shows an excellent root system on a
nursery tree. Such a tree should be almost as easily transplanted as an
apple tree. A little more care on the part of nurserymen would insure
good root systems.
In a former publication it was suggested that the young seedlings
intended for stocks be root-pruned "in the fall, after the trees are one
year old. It could easily be accomplished by running the tree-digger
down the row at a depth of nine or ten inches. The taproots could thus
be severed, and the following spring, or summer, the trees could be
worked (budded or grafted). This course of treatment would insure
greater success in transplanting, as it would have a tendency to develop
the lateral roots; and in addition to that, it would, in all
probability, induce earlier fruiting."
ROOT TRIMMING BEFORE PLANTING.
Two year old taproots should be cut to eighteen or twenty-four inches;
larger ones, in proportion. The old idea that transplanted pecan trees,
the taproots of which have been cut back, will not live and bear, is not
borne out by experience. They are in no-wise injured by its partial
removal, and it might all be removed were it not that so many would die
in transplanting.
[Illustration: FIG. 33. A nursery tree with a good root system.]
Figure 34 shows two pecan trees at two years. The one on the right was
carefully lifted so as to preserve as much as possible of the taproot,
while the one on the left had the taproot cut when it was transplanted
at one year. In the latter, six small roots from four and one-half to
eight inches in length had grown out to replace the taproot, these
doubtless having supplied the tree with as much nourishment as would
have been given by its single taproot. Furthermore, without doubt, one
of these roots would have grown so as to replace the taproot.
The advice has been given to cut the taproots back to five or six
inches, but under general average climatic conditions throughout the
pecan region anyone who follows this advice will have reason to regret
it. Our experience in transplanting pecan trees has been such as to
indicate the necessity of having a well-branched, well-developed root
system, and a taproot, when present, should be left at least as long as
indicated above.
[Illustration: FIG. 34. a. Taproot cut at 1 yr. b. Taproot not cut.]
A long taproot is objectionable on account of the additional cost and
labor entailed in digging holes of sufficient depth for planting. To
shorten the length of the taproot, Mr. E. E. Risien, of San Saba, Tex.,
has patented a method which has given satisfactory results. The nuts
from which the stocks are grown are planted over strips of mosquito
netting, the netting being some distance below the level of the nuts.
When the taproots have penetrated to the netting, their growth is
stopped, and the lateral roots develop better in consequence.
PART IV.
Harvesting. Marketing.
CHAPTER XIII.
GATHERING, STORING AND MARKETING PECANS.
While, in preparing a crop of pecan nuts for market, such extreme care
need not be exercised as in handling a crop of peaches, plums or
oranges, still there are a number of details which require careful
attention to secure the best results. Careful attention to these few
points is quite as necessary as in handling any other fruit crop, though
it might appear otherwise.
_Time to Gather._ As a rule the bulk of the nut crop must be disposed of
before Thanksgiving, and there is in consequence a strong disposition to
gather the crop anyway, whether ready or not. Much might be said on both
sides of the question, but in general it must be granted that gathering
the crop while still somewhat immature, and beating the trees to cause
the nuts to drop, cannot be commended.
When the great majority of nut husks are open, the crop of the tree is
ready to be harvested. It will not do to wait until every burr is open
(some varieties never open, but such are extremely undesirable), for it
will usually be found that by far the most of those which do not open,
on trees which open their burrs uniformly, are faulty, and it will not
pay to wait for them. Neither should such be left on the tree, but the
whole tree should be stripped at the time already indicated. It will be
necessary to use light bamboo poles to remove the nuts with closed
burrs.
_Picking._ The nuts must either be picked by hand or knocked off the
trees onto the ground with sticks. From whatever standpoint we may
regard the gathering of the crops, in orchards of good varieties, the
best plan for the removal of the nuts is to take them off, in so far as
possible, by hand. Men should climb the trees and collect the nuts in
sacks. Men provided with sacks can, with the help of a good extension
ladder, reach the most of the nuts on ordinary trees, up to forty or
fifty feet in height. A good man will pick one hundred pounds of the
shelled nuts in a day, at a cost of one dollar--or one cent per pound.
[Illustration: FIG. 35. After the Harvest.]
In gathering the crop, the product of each individual tree, in the case
of heavy-bearing seedlings, or of each group of trees of a single
variety of grafted trees, should be kept in a single pile or lot. It
will not do to mix nuts of different sizes, shapes and colors, if the
best price is to be hoped for.
_Curing._ As soon as removed from the trees the nuts should be carried
to the curing house. This house should be absolutely rat-proof. Here
they are to be picked from the hulls, the unopened burrs being placed
apart by themselves. If they open later, well and good; some good nuts
may be found among them, but usually they are inferior and should be
kept strictly apart from the other portion of the crop. The cost of
removing a hundred pounds of nuts from the hulls is about fifty cents.
As soon as the nuts have been separated from the hulls, they should be
spread out in shallow trays for curing. These trays should be two and
one-half or three feet wide and four or five inches deep. The bottoms
are best covered with wire netting with meshes about one-half inch
square. They may be arranged around the walls of the curing room, one
tier above another. The room should be provided with good ventilation so
as to give a free circulation of air. In the trays the nuts may be
placed two or three layers deep; if placed too deep there is danger of
their moulding. They should be turned over from time to time, and, under
average conditions, two weeks will be sufficient to cure them
thoroughly.
_Grading._ Before packing for market, the nuts should be carefully
graded. Too much attention cannot be given to this detail. Rigid grading
pays--it pays handsomely, and the more abundant the supply, the better
it pays.
It will not do to mix together nuts of all sizes, shapes, and
colors--some small, some large, some pointed, some blunt, some dark,
some light, some streaked, and then expect to get the full value of the
crop. It cannot be done with a good grade of pecans.
Perhaps in no kind of fruit which is placed on the market can a more
nearly absolutely uniform grade be made (see Frontispiece). The variety
should be the basis of the grade. In gathering the crop, each variety
should be put by itself as it is gathered. In most varieties the size is
quite uniform, and little else need be done; but if there is any
considerable variation in size, the small ones should be removed from
the first grade of nuts.
Polishing and staining should not be done. It is always best to let each
variety retain its own individual marks and characteristics. These are a
part of the market quality of the variety and should, by all means, be
retained. Mixed lots of seedling nuts may be polished to render them
more uniform, but the staining is an abomination, though some people
would rather have it, not knowing, perhaps, what a pecan looks like
without it.
_Shipping Packages._ The package should be strong and light, and should
afford ample protection to the product. We have known pecans to be
shipped by mail, freight or express, in bags, and losses have occurred.
Barrels for larger shipments, and wooden boxes for smaller ones are
best, and afford the necessary protection. Gift packages, holding ten or
twenty pounds or even more, should be made of half inch stuff at least,
with ends three-quarters or one inch thick. Grocery boxes may be cut up,
planed off, and made over. In all cases the packages should be neat and
clean, and in perfect keeping with the contents. The name and address of
the grower, the name of the variety, and the number of pounds should be
neatly stamped on the outside.
_Marketing._ As it is at present, so will it be for many years to come,
strictly first-class pecans will be handled almost entirely by or
through a private trade. We know of several growers who dispose of their
crops of several thousand pounds annually to private customers who have
learned the value of good nuts. So greatly has the demand increased that
in no single instance is anyone of these men able to supply the demand
of the natural outgrowth of his own work, and orders are usually booked
a year or more in advance. This is the ideal method of handling the
crop, and the one method which enables the grower to secure the best
price for his product.
In building up such a private trade, advertising must be resorted to,
either through the newspapers, magazines and other channels, or by
distributing samples of nuts. "Once a customer, always a customer"
should be the motto for the grower to hold in mind, and every effort
should be made and every precaution taken to _see that the nuts, from
year to year, are absolutely uniform in size, shape, and quality_. Do
not send a customer one size, shape, or quality one year, at a certain
price, and the next year vary it. Such treatment will tend to make
customers dissatisfied, and the grower may lose them entirely. This
point cannot be too strongly emphasized.
Strictly first-class nuts may be disposed of to advantage to the
first-class grocery or fruit trade in the larger cities. In cities of
any considerable size, there will always be found a grocer or fruiter
who is willing to take a first-class article at a price considerably
above the usual market price of ordinary nuts. The writer once submitted
samples of nuts of medium, but uniform size and good quality, to a
grocery firm in New York. They replied that they would take nuts like
the samples at twelve and a half to fifteen cents a pound in carload
lots, when the common run of pecans could be purchased at four or five
cents per pound.
As the output of high-grade pecans is increased, they may be disposed of
through the usual nut trade channels--the commission men. The bulk of
the product in the country to-day is handled by commission men, either
being purchased direct or sold on consignment. If sold for cash in the
home market, well and good, but if sold on consignment, choose one
reliable commission house in each city in which the product is to be
marketed--never two in the same city--and ship to it right along.
_Storing._ During the cold weather following the gathering of the crop,
little or no change takes place in the flavor of the kernels. During the
heat of summer, however, they deteriorate. The natural amount of
moisture in them is reduced, the air enters, oxidation takes place and
the flavor becomes rancid.
These changes can be prevented if the nuts are kept in cold storage, say
at a temperature of from thirty-five to forty degrees. When nuts are
kept in the house, they should be stored in the coolest possible place,
in sealed jars or tight boxes.
PART V.
Diseases. Insects.
CHAPTER XIV.
FUNGOUS AND OTHER DISEASES OF THE PECAN.
The fungous diseases attacking the pecan have not been thoroughly
investigated. They have not, however, become so numerous or common as to
cause serious damage except in a few instances. The true fungous
diseases are usually propagated and disseminated by means of spores, and
the most effectual method of control usually consists in spraying with
Bordeaux mixture or some other fungicide. For all fungous diseases of
the pecan which may be controlled by spraying no substance will give
better results than Bordeaux mixture, and directions for preparing it
are given at the end of this chapter. Paris green, at the rate of four
ounces to each fifty gallons of liquid, may be added to the mixture for
the destruction of biting insects. For effectual work in spraying large
trees, a platform should be erected on the wagon-bed to make it possible
to reach the tops with the spray.
PECAN LEAF BLIGHT (_Cercospora Halstedii_): This disease of
pecan leaves causes them to turn brown, wither up and drop
prematurely. At first, small brown spots are noted. These
become larger, and at length the whole leaf is destroyed. When
attacked by this disease the tree makes no progress. An
examination of the discolored areas, under a microscope, shows
the presence of tuft-like growths of spores upon short
conidiophores. As they become matured the spores are scattered
by the rain or wind and so the disease is spread. It probably
lives over from one season to another on the diseased leaves.
The most effective remedy is to spray thoroughly three times
with Bordeaux mixture. The first application should be given
just when the young leaves are expanding, followed by two
others at intervals of two or three weeks. The fallen leaves
should, if feasible, be gathered and burned.
Pecan Scab (_Fusicladium effusum_): This disease attacks the
fruit, leaves and twigs. The husks of the diseased nuts become
covered with dark spots or specks. They become hardened and
crack open in places. As a result of the attack, growth is
stopped, the fruit does not fill out and mature, but drops
prematurely or, in some cases, remains attached to the trees
long after the leaves have fallen. Round, black spots form on
the leaves when attacked by the fungous. These become dead and
brown and in most cases the whole leaf is destroyed. When
attacked, the trees are usually so badly injured that they make
little progress. Not all varieties are subject to the disease
in the same degree and some appear to be entirely exempt.
[Illustration: _Photo by H. A. Gossard._
FIG. 36. Spraying Pecan Trees.]
Those varieties which are not attacked should be given
preference in propagating work. The disease may be further
controlled by spraying with Bordeaux mixture, as directed under
leaf-blight.
PECAN ROSETTE: [L]"The earliest symptoms are a peculiar
crimping of the leaves at the ends of the branches. These
leaves are smaller with crimped margin, and when held to the
light show light green or yellow streaks between the veins. The
leaf tissue in these light-colored areas is thin and
undeveloped and often breaks away leaving angular holes in the
leaves. A tree usually shows the disease over the whole top at
once, though sometimes only a single branch is affected at
first. As the disease progresses, the foliage assumes a bunched
appearance, due to the formation of tufts of leaves at the ends
of the branches. This characteristic has led us to use the term
"Rosette" as a name for the malady.
"The next stage of the disease which is observed the second
year or later, is a dying-back of the branches from the tips.
This is followed by the development of numerous small, lateral
branches from adventitious buds. These are short, producing
thick clusters of small, unhealthy leaves, sometimes reduced to
mere skeletons, so that the rosetted appearance of the tree is
intensified. This goes on from year to year. The growth of the
tree is checked and these abnormal branches are formed only to
die back each year. Trees in the earliest stages of rosette
have been observed to have light crops of nuts, but, when badly
diseased, are barren and unsightly or worse. Rosette has been
found in all ages, from nursery stock to trees forty feet high.
"The cause of the disease remains a mystery. No fungous or
other parasite can be detected in the earliest stages. The
appearance of the trees leads us to infer that the trouble is
internal, due to some derangement of the nutritive or
assimilative functions of the plant, but we are unable to
correlate this with any corresponding external conditions. That
is to say, that so many cases have been observed on fertile
soil, when cultivation, drainage and plant food had all been
provided, that it is impossible to conclude that the disease
could be due to starvation or to the lack of any single element
in the soil, nor can it be due to over-feeding, since it occurs
in light soils and in neglected orchards.
"It seems probable that it will be classed by the plant
pathologist with peach rosette, peach yellows, and related
diseases, the causes of which still remain unknown after years
of investigation. The indications are that it is contagious,
though a complete demonstration of this point remains to be
made; at any rate, it must be regarded with concern until more
knowledge is available."
The best recommendation that can be made in regard to pecans
affected by this disease is to dig them up and burn them.
BORDEAUX MIXTURE.
Copper sulphate, 5 pounds.
Lime (unslacked), 5 pounds.
Water, 50 gallons.
Dissolve the copper sulphate in two gallons of water, place it
in barrel No. 1 and add water to make twenty-five gallons.
Slack the lime, reduce it to a very thin paste, place it in
barrel No. 2 and add water to make twenty-five gallons. To mix
the solutions of lime and copper sulphate, dip a bucketful from
each barrel, and pour together into the barrel of the spray
pump. _The two mixtures should flow together as they are poured
into the barrel._ This is one of the secrets of making a
first-class mixture. The best arrangement is to have the
barrels, Nos. 1 and 2, elevated, and use a piece of rubber hose
to run the liquids into the pump barrel.
If a large amount of spraying is to be done, a somewhat
different policy should be pursued. Too much time would be
taken up in preparing the ingredients in small quantities.
Instead, large amounts of copper sulphate should be dissolved
and large quantities of lime slacked beforehand. This may be
done as follows:
In a fifty-gallon barrel place about forty gallons of water.
Put one hundred pounds of copper sulphate in a sack and suspend
it in the water. As soon as dissolved, fill up to the
fifty-gallon mark. When well stirred, each gallon will contain
two pounds of copper sulphate. Each time some of the solution
is dipped out, the height of the remaining portion should be
marked on the inside of the barrel. Before taking more of the
solution out of the barrel, any amount of water lost by
evaporation should be made good by filling up to the mark last
made.
As soon as procured the lime should be slacked, placed in a
barrel and kept covered with an inch or two of water. In this
way it can be kept indefinitely.
To prepare Bordeaux mixture from these stock solutions, dip out
two and a half gallons of the copper sulphate solution, place
it in barrel No. 1 and dilute to twenty-five gallons. From the
slacked lime take fifteen pounds, or thereabouts, to allow for
the water it contains, reduce to a thin paste, place it in
barrel No. 2 and add water to make twenty-five gallons. Pour
the contents of barrels Nos. 1 and 2 together, as already
directed.
_Tests_: If free copper be present, severe injury may be done
to the foliage or other tender parts of the plants. Sufficient
lime should be added to neutralize it.
Dip out a small quantity in a porcelain saucer or shallow bowl,
and holding it on a level with the mouth, blow the breath
gently into it. If a thin pellicle forms on the surface, more
lime must be added. Add and test until it does not form. An
excess of lime will not hurt.
Another test is to dip the blade of a clean knife into the
mixture. If a thin film of copper forms on it after holding it
there a minute or so, more lime must be added.
Use good materials and prepare the mixtures thoroughly.
In making up the various mixtures, never use iron vessels, but
use glass, wood or crockery receptacles instead.
Strain all mixtures thoroughly into the spray pump to prevent
clogging of the pump or nozzles.
Spray thoroughly and in good season. _Be in time._
Do not use mixtures which have been leftover and allowed to
stand for some time.
FOOTNOTES:
[L] Orton, W. A., proceedings second annual convention National Nut
Growers' Association, 1903, p. 82. 1904.
CHAPTER XV.
INSECTS ATTACKING THE PECAN.
Some time ago the statement was occasionally made that the pecan had no
known enemies. This, to thinking and observing persons, was too good to
be true, and fortunately the words, "no known," were inserted, for later
investigations, particularly on the part of Profs. Gossard and Herrick,
have revealed the fact that the pecan, in common with all other fruit
trees, is subject to the attacks of insect and other enemies. But the
outlook is hopeful, for we know of the abandonment of no fruit industry
because of the attacks of insect pests, and the pecan industry is in no
wise in danger of being abandoned because of their inroads.
FEEDING HABITS OF INSECTS.
If an insect is to be successfully controlled, the grower must know
something of its life-history, and particularly of its feeding-habits.
Careful observation of the insect, while at its work of destruction,
will frequently give a clue to the method of control. Many insects, like
the caterpillars of the pecan, bud-moth and case-worm, obtain their food
by biting off pieces of the leaves or other parts of the tree and
swallowing the solid particles. On the other hand, a number of insects,
such as the scales and plant-lice, obtain their food by thrusting their
small, bristle-like sucking tubes into the tissues of the leaves and
sucking out the juices contained in the cells.
[Illustration: PLATE VIII. The Pecan Bud Moth (Proteopteryx deludana).
1. Winter stage on bud, enlarged. 2. Tube made in leaf. 3. Work of bud
destruction. 4. Caterpillar, enlarged about twice. 5. Cocoon, enlarged.
6. Chrysalis, reduced. 7. Moth, enlarged. 8. Moth, about natural size.]
It is quite obvious that these two classes of insects cannot be
controlled or destroyed in the same way. Those which eat solid particles
of food may, in most cases, be destroyed by applying some poisonous
substance, such as arsenate of lead or Paris green, to the food which
they eat. But those which obtain their food by sucking cannot be killed
in this way. They can be destroyed, however, by spraying over their
bodies some substance, such as kerosene emulsion, which will penetrate
their bodies and so kill them. Or, they may be killed by suffocating
them with a gas or by stopping up their breathing pores with some
powdered substance, such as pyrethrum. Some insecticides, such as resin
wash, act both as a caustic application and a suffocating covering.
For convenience in referring to insects which attack the pecan, we have
grouped them as follows: (1) Insects attacking buds and leaves; (2)
Insects attacking the trunk and branches; (3) Insects attacking the
fruit.
INSECTS ATTACKING BUDS AND LEAVES.
THE BUD WORMS: At least two species of caterpillars are known
by this name. The moth of one has been called the bud-moth. The
caterpillar of the other has been called the case-worm. Prof.
Gossard writes, that he unexpectedly found adult moths of
_Proteopteryx deludana_, November 28th, 1905, and therefore
believes, from this observation and other circumstantial
evidence, that he was "mixed" regarding the autumn life-history
of these insects, as set forth in Bulletin 79 of the Florida
Experiment Station. He furnishes the following paragraph as a
summary of what he can say of the bud worms:
"The Bud Moth, _Proteopteryx deludana_, is a serious pest,
especially in young orchards. Sometimes, in such orchards, even
when large, scarcely a tree can be found during the month of
May that does not contain one or several nests. The
caterpillars are usually found singly, each with one side of a
leaf folded over it and fastened to form a tube, or sometimes
two leaves are fastened together with silken bonds and the
caterpillar feeds between them. As fast as the leaves it has
attached become brown and die, it draws fresh leaves to the
dead ones and fastens them there, thus gradually making a very
conspicuous nest. The caterpillar is full grown during the last
of May and the first of June when they transform into moths.
Their pupæ cases are formed of silk and excrement, smoothly
lined with silk and snugly hidden away in a nest of leaves. In
about two weeks from the time of pupation, the moths appear.
Early specimens have sometimes been hatched from buds, only
partially expanded. They are small, about five-sixteenths of an
inch in length and five-eighths of an inch across the expanded
wings. In general color they are grayish, streaked and dotted
with blackish-brown. A characteristic habit is to alight and
rest on the tree trunk, head downward. The moths have again
been observed in November, suggesting that there are two broods
a year. Thorough, persistent spraying with arsenate of lead or
Paris green, in April and May, ought to control this species."
THE CASE WORM (_Acrobasis nebulella_): This insect, often found
associated with the bud moth, probably does more damage than any other
pecan insect. The caterpillars are about five-eighths of an inch in
length, a dirty brownish-green in color, and live in silk-lined cases or
tubes attached to the petioles of the leaves. From these they protrude
themselves to feed. Frequently a pair of leaflets are tied together
(Plate IX, Fig. 6), and between these the caterpillars live and feed
upon the tips of the protecting leaflets. Opening buds, partially
developed and full-grown leaves alike are destroyed. Earlier in the
season, characteristic nests of partially eaten leaves, petioles and
excrement are formed by several caterpillars tying the mass together
with silk. In this nest they live and develop. The caterpillars pupate
within their silken tubes, and the small gray moths (five-eighths to
three-fourths of an inch in length) emerge about two weeks after
pupation, chiefly in June. The small, hibernating "cocoons" found on and
around the buds in winter and the tortuous tubes observed on the leaves
in summer and fall, which have been referred to (_Proteopteryx
deludana_), probably belong to this species. At least, caterpillars
one-fourth grown and contained in cocoons apparently not essentially
different from the smaller ones, contain worms having the characteristic
appearance of the grown _acrobasis_. Spraying with arsenicals in April,
May and June should destroy this pest. Spraying in late July and August
would also promise results of value.
[Illustration: PLATE IX. The Case Worm.
1. Supposed winter stage. 2. Caterpillar, enlarged. 3-4. Moth, nearly
natural size. 5. Cases. 6. Work on leaves.]
THE CATOTOCALAS (_Catocala piatrix_ and _C. viduata_): The caterpillars
of these insects are frequently found during April, May and June feeding
upon the leaves of the pecan. They are ravenous feeders, and if present
in sufficient numbers, considerable damage is done. The caterpillars are
from two to two and a half or three inches in length when fully
extended, gray and striped, leathery in appearance, very closely
resembling the back of the tree upon which they rest when not feeding.
Having attained its full growth as a caterpillar, it ties together two
or three leaves with strands of silk, thus making a loose cocoon within
which it pupates. The pupa is dark brown, covered with a whitish or
bluish-white bloom. In about one month the moths emerge. They are large
in size, the body being one to one and one-fourth inches long and the
expanded wings two and one-half to three inches across. When at rest
they are dull gray in color, more or less marked with irregular waving
lines. The hind or under-wings are strikingly different from the
fore-wings. In C. piatrix they are deep orange-yellow marked from side
to side with two black bands. The hind-wings of C. viduata are dark
brown and edged with a narrow white band.
The caterpillars may be destroyed by spraying with some one of the
arsenical poisons, or they may be removed by hand and destroyed. Prof.
Gossard recommends the tying of a piece of burlap around the trees.
Beneath this the caterpillars hide during the night and they may then be
destroyed.
[Illustration: PLATE X. A Pecan Catocala. (C. Piatrix.)
Caterpillar, Cocoon, Chrysalis, and Moths about one-half natural size.]
THE FALL WEB-WORM (_Hyphantria cunea_): The caterpillars of this insect
begin work early in spring, shortly after the leaves are full grown.
They work in colonies, and the leaves on which they feed are enclosed in
a web, which is extended as the caterpillars grow or as they require
additional leaves to feed upon. When full grown the caterpillars measure
about one inch in length and are covered with hairs both long and short.
The matured caterpillars leave the webs and crawl down the trees to hunt
for places beneath the bark, under sticks, weeds and trash in which to
pupate. A light, flimsy cocoon, composed of silk and the hairs of the
larva, is made. From this, in due time, a beautiful moth, an inch or an
inch and a quarter across the wings, emerges. The wings are pure white
or white spotted with black or brownish-black. The eggs are laid in
masses of four or five hundred on the leaves. These hatch in about ten
days, and the colonies of young caterpillars begin their work of
destruction. There are two broods in the South each summer; the first
appearing in May and June, the second in August and September. The fall
brood hybernates in the pupa state.
The caterpillars may be destroyed on small trees by removing the webs
and killing the larvæ. On large trees a torch of some sort may be used
to burn the web and the caterpillars within it. They may be also held in
check by applying a spray of Paris green or arsenate of lead at the time
the broods are feeding.
THE PECAN CATERPILLAR (_Datana interrigma_): A buff-colored moth, having
a body about one-half inch long and a wing expanse of one and
three-fourths inches, with four transverse brown stripes on the front
wings, lays its greenish or white eggs in clusters of five to twelve
hundred on the underside of the lower leaves of the pecan trees. These
eggs hatch in less than a week, and the colonies of young caterpillars
at first feed upon the undersides of the leaves. They cast their skins
four times, each time increasing in size and changing their color
somewhat. The last moult, and sometimes the last two, take place on the
trunk of the tree, and the clusters of discarded skins frequently remain
for several months afterwards. After the last moult they ascend the
trees, remain feeding for a short while, then go down to the ground to
pupate. When disturbed, the larvæ raise both ends of their bodies from
the twigs or leaves, on which they rest. They are easily recognized by
this habit. When full grown they are one and one-half to one and
three-quarters of an inch in length, covered with dirty white hair, and
marked with two conspicuous longitudinal white lines, one on each side
of the body. There are two broods, the last one hibernating in the
ground in the pupa state.
The leaves on which the eggs are laid may be gathered and destroyed, or
the colonies of young caterpillars may be gathered and burned. Later,
they may be burned off with a torch, killed when clustered on the trunk
during the last moult, or poisoned with an arsenical spray.
INSECTS ATTACKING THE TRUNK AND BRANCHES.
THE TWIG GIRDLER (_Oneideres cingulatus_ and _O. texana_): These two
insects frequently do considerable damage to pecan trees in late summer
by cutting off the smaller branches. Branches from one-fourth to
three-fourths of an inch are usually the ones attacked. The insect is a
beetle, and the two species closely resemble each other. They are dark
gray in color, one half to five-eighths inch in length, with antennæ
longer than the body and provided with stout, powerful mandibles. The
female insect cuts the branch by working round and round it until it is
almost entirely severed. She then lays a number of eggs in it, usually
one or two being placed near each bud. A small cut is made and the egg
is inserted between the bark and the wood, and the opening is then
sealed up with a gummy substance. As the insect moves along the twig a
series of transverse cuts are made in the bark. The twigs usually drop
to the ground. The eggs hatch as soon as the weather becomes
sufficiently warm in spring, and the larvæ feed in the twigs, making
tunnels through them as they grow. Later, they pupate within the tunnels
and emerge during August and September as fully developed insects,
having spent one year in their growth from egg to mature insect. It is
believed that in some cases the life cycle lasts two years.
The best and most effective treatment is to gather and burn all the
twigs which have been cut from the trees. This should be done,
preferably late in autumn after the leaves have fallen, as there is
greater certainty of getting all the severed twigs than if left until a
later date.
THE OAK PRUNER (_Elaphidion villosum_): Sometimes[M] pecan twigs, when
smartly bent, will snap off with a clean, square cut across the
branches, as if they were hollow-glass tubes, breaking at cracked or
weakened places. An examination of such a broken stem shows "that its
woody part, with the exception of a few fibers and the bark, has been
cut across as if with a saw by a soft, yellowish-white grub, which can
often be found in a burrow in the severed part. Since the uncut bark is
the chief support left for the branch, any stiff wind or even its own
weight will break it off as soon as it has become deadened. * * * * * *
"The adult is a longicorn beetle, of slender, cylindrical form,
over one-half inch in length and about one-eighth of an inch in
width. It is of a dull, black color, tinged with brown on the
wing covers, especially toward their tips. The underside of the
body and legs are chestnut colored. Over all parts of the body
can be found short, grayish hairs. Some small, gray spots on
the wing-covers and a whitish dot on each side of the thorax
are formed by dense collections of gray hairs at these points.
Coarse, round punctures are thickly sprinkled over the upper
surface of the thorax and wing-covers.
"The larva, when grown, is about three-fifths of an inch long,
tapering backwards from the neck. The body is divided by deep
grooves into twelve rings or segments. There are three pairs of
feet. The color is yellowish-white, the front of the head being
blackish. Probably, about midsummer, with a possible variation
of two mouths in each direction from this date, the parent
beetle deposits her eggs, preferably on a small twig of the
preceding year's growth. Upon hatching, the young larva
commences to eat the tender wood just beneath the bark, and
later enters the center of the twig and works toward its base.
In this manner it works its way into the main limb, which may
be of considerable size, and feeds within it for a period of
about three years. The burrow thus becomes several inches in
length, in many cases. Just before transforming to pupæ some,
but not all, of the larvæ, cut the wood for the purpose of
dropping the branches, as before described. Limbs in which the
immature larvæ are working often break off with ragged end when
bent with the hand.
"* * * Pick up and burn all fallen branches. Similar attention
should be given nearby oak and hickory limbs, which have
fallen."
THE PECAN TREE BORER (_Sesia scitula_): The moth of this insect is
clear-winged and closely resembles the moth of the peach tree borer.
Little is known of its life-history.
"It[N] is probable that the eggs are deposited by the female moth on the
bark of a tree near a fresh wound. For example, near newly set buds. The
eggs hatch and the larvæ bore into the bark, and there live for a time,
eating out the soft inner-bark and tender wood. It is certain that the
borers live in these situations the over winter and change to pupæ in
the spring, from which the moths emerge in April. The moths I reared
appeared April 3rd, 4th and 6th. The pupæ are in cocoons, just under the
bark. The cocoons are made from excrement and bits of bark that have
been fastened together with silk similar to the cocoons of the peach
tree borer. Whether these moths, that emerge in the spring, lay eggs and
produce a brood in the summer, that in turn develops a fall brood of
larvæ, I am unable to say."
"The[O] young borer is apt to gain entrance to the sapwood through some
wound in the bark, such as a graft-union, and here it feeds, sometimes
completely girdling the sapwood above and below the wound. It is said to
prefer to attack buds that have been budded on old, large trees. As a
general rule the burrows ascend the tree in a spiral about the trunk, so
complete girdling is unusual, but growth sometime ceases above the
groove, new limbs being shot out from below."
The only satisfactory means of controlling this pest is to go carefully
over the tree and dig out the borers. The trees should be examined from
time to time in order to keep them free from borers.
INSECTS ATTACKING THE FRUIT.
THE PECAN WEEVIL (_Balantinus caryae_): In some localities considerable
damage has been caused by the pecan weevil. The insect is a small,
brownish-black snout beetle, somewhat less than one-half inch in length.
The proboscis or snout is slender and as long as the body. With this
proboscis the beetle bores a very small hole through the husk and shell
of the immature pecan to the kernel, and at the bottom deposits an egg.
This egg hatches into a larva, which feeds upon the kernel of the nut.
In autumn the larvæ, when full grown, bore holes through the shells of
the pecan and enter the ground in which they pass the winter. The next
season they emerge from the earth as fully-matured insects, and about
the month of August deposit their eggs in the nuts.
After the harvesting of the crop the hogs should be allowed to feed
under trees in which the weevil is present, so as to devour any infested
nuts which may have been left on the ground. Poultry may also be of
assistance in destroying the insects after they have entered the ground
to pupate. It is probable that the larvæ in the nuts may be destroyed by
fumigating with carbon bi-sulphide. The nuts should be placed in a tight
box, and one-half pound for each five hundred cubic feet of space used,
allowing them to remain for forty-eight hours.
THE HICKORY SHUCK WORM (_Grapholitha caryana_): Sometimes pecan nuts are
attacked, as they approach maturity, by a small, white caterpillar,
which mines its way through the shucks of the nuts. This caterpillar is
the hickory shuck worm, the larva of a small moth.
But little is known of its life-history, and until more is known of its
habits, the best advice that can be given is to gather and destroy the
infested nuts by burning them.
FOOTNOTES:
[M] Gossard.
[N] Hedrick. (See index of literature).
[O] Gossard. (See index of literature).
PART VI.
Uses. Literature.
CHAPTER XVI.
PECAN KERNELS.
Pecan nuts are used in a variety of ways. Not so very long since they
were used almost entirely for dessert purposes, now they are largely
used in making pastries and confections of different kinds. Based on
these uses, new industries for supplying the kernels have been
developed. The kernels are now put on the market in glass jars of
different kinds and sizes, usually retailing at from 50 cents to 75
cents per pound. This is perhaps the most convenient form in which to
buy them, but unfortunately, they are too frequently old and rancid.
When stock is carried through the heat of summer in the ordinary jar,
this is invariably the case, and some new method of packing them must be
introduced if this way of disposing of the product is to increase in
favor, as it should. Certain experiments now under way give promise that
the kernels can be kept fresh and free from rancidity indefinitely.
For the present, at least, the only certain way of procuring good, fresh
pecan kernels is to procure fresh nuts--those which have been kept over
in cold-storage are good--and crack them at the time when they are
needed. For the household, an ordinary pair of nut-crackers will answer,
but they should be of a particular type. The jaws should be formed with
sharp-cutting edges.
NUT-CRACKERS.
In the accompanying illustration, four kinds of nut-crackers are shown.
The two at the right are reversible. The best pair is represented at the
extreme left of the engraving. The bars are square, the grooves in them
are curved inward leaving the teeth sharp and pointed out flush with the
edge.
[Illustration: _From American Nut Journal, Petersburg, Va._
FIG. 37. Nut Crackers of different types.]
To remove the kernels without breaking, grasp the nut with the crackers
as close to the end as possible, and gently but firmly apply sufficient
pressure to force the sharp teeth of the crackers into the shell.
Revolve the nut and repeat the operation until the end is marked with a
ring of indentations. Then apply a little greater pressure to start a
slight crack, and follow the crack around until the end of the shell
drops off. Treat the opposite end in the same way. Next, place the nut
lengthwise between the crackers, so they will grasp the side, having the
backs of the two halves of the kernel, not the space between the halves,
towards the bars. This must be emphasized, because, if pressure is
applied at right angles to the edges of the halves instead of against
their backs, the chances are that they will be broken when the shell is
broken. Having the crackers in position, apply sufficient pressure to
crack the shell. Shift the crackers a little to one side of the crack,
apply pressure again and a piece of the shell breaks out. A few gentle
squeezes will remove the remainder of the shell and the kernel drops out
intact.
A hand-power cracker, capable of quite efficient work, is manufactured
by Thomas Mills & Bro., Philadelphia, Penn. It has a capacity of one
hundred pounds per day, and is capable of giving ninety per cent. of
perfect halves.
For factory use, two machines, for extracting kernels at a rapid rate,
have been invented, one by Mr. Robert E. Woodson, St. Louis, Mo., and
the other by Mr. Grim, New York city. These make it possible to extract
pecans in large quantities for commercial purposes. The nuts are fed
into a hopper and the machine then takes care of them. In regard to the
Woodson machine shown in the adjoining illustration, the inventor says
that "in cracking one hundred pounds of nuts there were obtained 39-1/2
pounds of perfect halves and 3-1/2 pounds of broken pieces. This test
shows 92 per cent. of perfect halves. I do not claim that this result
may be obtained at all times and under all conditions, for the hardness
of the shell and the dryness of the nuts make a difference in the
results."
Pecans which have become somewhat dry should be soaked in water over
night. This renders them much more easily cracked.
[Illustration: FIG. 38. Woodson's Power Kernel Extractor.]
PECAN OIL.
Oil extracted from almonds, peanuts, cocoanuts and other nuts is now
used for various purposes, and at no distant time it is probable that
pecan oil may also be placed on the market. Only the cheaper, inferior
grades of nuts can be used in oil-making, as the larger and better
quality of nuts are worth too much for dessert purposes.
Ordinary nuts will run about fifty per cent. kernels, and these kernels
analyze about seventy per cent. oil or fat. On this basis one hundred
pounds would give approximately thirty-five pounds of oil. Of course the
better grades of nuts will give sixty per cent. kernels, and would
consequently yield more oil.
Pecan oil might be used as a salad oil. It might be put to other
culinary uses, as well as finding a possible place among medicinal
oils.
CHAPTER XVII.
PECAN LITERATURE.
But little has been written on the culture of the pecan. The following
brief list of bulletins, articles or chapters in general works,
comprises practically all that has appeared from the pens of American
writers:
Budd, J. L. and Hansen, N. E. The Hickory Nut; Pecan Propagation, in
American Horticultural Manual, New York: John Wiley & Sons. Copyright
1902, 1904. Part I, pp. 301-303.
---- The Pecan, in American Horticultural Manual. New York: John Wiley &
Sons. Copyright 1903; Part II, pp. 452-454.
Burnette, F. H., Stubbs, Wm. C, Morgan, H. A. Pecans. Baton Rouge: Truth
Book and Job Printing Office, 1902; Illustrated; pp. 847-884. Bulletin
No. 69, Second Series, Louisiana Agricultural Experiment Station.
Corsa, W. P. Pecan, in Nut Culture in the United States. Washington:
Government Printing Office, 1896. Illustrated; pp. 49-64. Bulletin
Division Pomology, United States Department of Agriculture.
Fuller, Andrew S. Hickory Nuts, In the Nut Culturist. New York: Orange
Judd Company. Copyright 1896. Illustrated; pp. 147-202.
Goff, E. S. The Pecan, in Lessons in Commercial Fruit Growing. Madison:
University Co-Operative Association. Copyright 1902; pp. 110-114.
Gossard, H. A. Insects of The Pecan. St. Augustine: The Record Company,
1905, Illustrated; pp. 279-320. Bulletin No. 79, Florida Agricultural
Experiment Station.
Hansen, N. E. See Budd, J. L.
Harcourt, Helen. The Pecan, in Florida Fruits and How to Raise Them.
Revised and Enlarged Edition. Louisville: J. P. Morton & Co. Copyright
1886; pp. 207-214.
Heighes, S. B. See Corsa, W. P.
Herrick, Glenn W. Insects injurious to Pecans. Agricultural College,
Miss.: Tucker Printing House, 1904. Illustrated; p. 42. Bulletin No. 86,
Mississippi Agricultural Experiment Station.
Hume, H. Harold. Pecan Culture: a Preliminary Report. Jacksonville: H. &
W. B. Drew Co., 1900. Illustrated; pp. 181-212. Bulletin No. 54, Florida
Agricultural Experiment Station.
---- Top-working Pecans. Gainesville: Hill Printing Co., 1901.
Illustrated; pp. 357-380. Bulletin No. 57, Florida Agricultural
Experiment Station.
---- Pecans, in Florida Agricultural Experiment Station Report,
1900-1901. De Land: E. O. Painter & Co., 1901. Illustrated; pp. 77-84
Merrill, L. H. See Woods, Charles D.
Morgan, H. A. See Burnette, F. H.
Oliver, George W. Budding the Pecan. Washington: Government Printing
Office, 1902. Illustrated; p. 18. Bulletin No. 30, Bureau of Plant
Industry, United States Department of Agriculture.
Parry, John R. Pecan (Hicoria Pecan, etc.), in Nuts for Profit. Parry,
N. J.: John R. Parry. Copyright 1897. Illustrated; pp. 93-118.
Risien, E. E. Pecan Culture for Western Texas. San Saba: E. E. Risien.
Copyright 1903-1904. Illustrated; pp. 6-55.
Stuart Pecan Company. The Pecan and How to Grow It. Chicago: Woman's
Temperance Publishing Co. Copyright 1893. Illustrated; pp. 9-80.
Stubbs, William C. See Burnette, F. H.
Taylor, William A. Pecan, in Report of the Secretary of Agriculture,
1893. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1894, pp. 295-296.
---- Pecan, in Bailey's Cyclopedia of American Horticulture. New York:
The Macmillan Company. Vol. III. Copyright 1901. Illustrated; pp.
1252-1256.
---- Pecans, in Yearbook, United States Department of Agriculture, 1904.
Washington: Government Printing Office, 1905. Pls. 2; pp. 405-416.
Van Deman, H. E. Nuts, in Report of the Secretary of Agriculture, 1891.
Washington: Government Printing Office, 1892; p. 395.
---- The Pecan, in Report of the Secretary of Agriculture, 1890.
Washington: Government Printing Office, 1890. Pls. 2; pp. 415-416.
Wood, Wm. H. S. Pecans, in The American Fruit Culturist, by John J.
Thomas. Twenty-first Edition. New York: William Wood & Co., 1903.
Illustrated; pp. 449-453.
Woods, Chas. D. and Merrill, L. H. Pecan (Hicoria pecan) "Food Analysis"
In Nuts as Food. Orono, 1899; pp. 74-75. Bulletin No. 54, Maine
Agricultural Experiment Station.
INDEX.
Acrobasis nebulella, 138
Analysis, 12
Annular budding, 78
Balantinus caryae, 146
Bogus trees, 99
Bordeaux Mixture, 133
Botany, 19
Broken trees, 118
Budd, J. L. publication by, 153
Budding, 78
Budding knives, 72-74
Bud-sticks, 77
Bud worms, 137
Burnette, F. H. publication by, 153
Care of top-worked trees, 87
Caseworms, 138
Catocalas, 140
Classification, 27
Chip-budding, 79-80
Cleft grafting, 80
Corsa, W. P. publication by, 153
Cross pollination, 23
Cultivation, 109
Cultivated range, 16
Curing, 124
Datana interrigma, 142
Diseases, 130
Elaphidion villosum, 144
Exports, 15
Fall webworm, 142
Family--Juglandaceæ, 20
Fertilization, 112
Fertilizers--
applying, 115
bearing trees, 114
nursery trees, 112
young trees, 114
Flowers, 22
Food value, 12
Fuller Andrew S. publication by, 153
Genus--Hicoria, 20
Goff, E. S. publication by, 153
Gossard, H. A. publication by, 153
Grading, 124
Grafting, 80
Grafting iron, 72
time, 77
wax, 74
Grapholitha caryae, 146
Hansen, N. E. publication by, 153
Harcourt, Helen publication by, 153
Heighes, S. B. publication by, 154
Herrick, G. W. publication by, 154
Hexagonal--
planting, 104
Hicoria, 20
Hicoria minima, 61
High-headed trees, 116
Hume, H. Harold publication by, 154
Humus, 109-110
Hybrid pecans, 57
Hyphantria cunea, 142
Imports, 15
Insects, 135
Judging pecans, 62
Kernels, 148
Laying out, 105
Leaf blight, 130
Literature, 153
Low-headed trees, 116
Marketing, 126
Merrill, L. H. publication by, 154
Morgan, H. A. publication by, 154
Native range, 16-21
Number per acre, 103
Nursery cultivation, 70
Nut-crackers, 14
Oak pruner, 144
Oil, 151
Oliver, G. W. publication by, 154
Oneideres, 143
Orchard crops, 110
Packages, 125
Parry, John H.
cultivation by, 154
Patch budding, 78
Pecan botany, 19
caterpillar, 142
diseases, 130
Insects, 135
tree borer, 145
kernels, 148
oil, 151
outlook, 11
stocks, 68
varieties, 26
weevil, 146
Phosphoric acid, 113
Picking, 123
Planting-board, 107
Planting distances, 102
Planting nuts, 69
Planting systems, 103
Planting time, 102
Planting trees, 106
Planting Systems--
square, 104
Hexagonal, 104
Pollination, 22
Potash, 113
Proteopteryx deludana, 137
Pruning, 116
time, 117
Propagation, 66
Purchasing trees, 97
Planting trees, 102
Quicksand, 89
Rectangular planting, 104
Risien, E. E. publication by, 154
Root pruning, 119
Rosette, 132
Scab, 131
Scions, selection of, 75
Seedling trees, 66
Selection of varieties, 93
Sesia scitula, 145
Shuck worm, 146
Soils, 89
preparation, 91
Stocks, 68
Storing, 127
Storing seed nuts, 69
Stuart Pecan Company, publication by, 154
Stubbs, William Co. publication by, 154
Taproot, 120
Taylor, William A. publications by, 154
Top-working, 84
Twig girdler, 143
Van Deman, H. E. publication by, 155
Varieties--
Alba, 28
Alley, 28
Atlanta, 28
Bacon, 28
Bacon's Choice, 28
Bartow, 29
Beauty, 29
Belle, 29
Biediger, 29
Biloxi, 29
Black Jack, 29
Bolton, 29
Bourgeois, 55
Brackett, 30
Bradley, 30
Briden, 30
Bullets, 30
Capital, 30
Carman, 30
Castanera, 52
Centennial, 31
Century, 49
Chiquita, 31
Clark, 31
Colorado, 31
Columbia, 49
Columbian, 49
Curtis, 31
Curtis No. 2, 31
Curtis No. 3, 48
Curtis No. 5, 38
Daisy, 32
Dalzell, 32
Deimas, 33
Dewey, 33
De Witt, 34
De Witt Mammoth, 44
Domestic, 34
Duminie Mire, 55
Early Texan, 34
Egg, 34
Eggshell, 34
Eggshell, 35
Excelsior, 34
Extra Early, 34
Faust, 35
Favorita, 35
Floyd, 57
Franklin, 35
Frotscher, 35
Frotscher's Eggshell, 35
Georgia, 36
Georgia Giant, 36
Georgia Melon, 36
Giant, 37
Gonzales, 37
Graff, 37
Halbert, 37
Hamilton, 37
Harcourt, 37
Havens, 37
Hollis, 37
Hume, 38
Hybrids, 57
Ideal, 38
Idlewild, 38
Jacocks, 38
Jacocks' Mammoth, 38
James' Giant, 39
James No. 1, 39
James' Paper-shell, 39
James' Perfection, 47
Jewett, 40
Jumbo, 40
Kate Schaifer, 50
Kennedy, 40
Kentucky Gem, 40
Kidd, 40
Kincaid, 41
Krack-Ezy, 41
Ladyfinger, 41
Lamar, 42
Lewis, 42
Longfellow, 42
Louisiana, 42
Majestic, 35
Mammoth, 49
McCallister, 57
Magnum Bonum, 43
Mammoth, 43
Mantura, 43
Mexican Paper-shell, 44
Meyers, 44
Monarch, 44
Money, 44
Money-maker, 45
Moore, 45
Morris, 45
Nelson, 46
Nigger, 46
Nussbaumer, 58
Olivier, 35
Pabst, 46
Pan-American, 46
Paragon, 55
Pearl, 47
Pegram, 47
Perfection, 47
Petite, 47
Pooshee, 57
Post, 47
Post's Select, 37-47
President, 47
Primate, 47
Pride of the Coast, 40
Randall, 48
Repton, 48
Ribera, 48
Risien, 48
Robson, 48
Rome, 49
Russell, 49
Russell No. 1, 50
Russell No. 2, 50
San Saba, 50
Schaifer, 50
Schley, 51
Schneck, 59
Senator, 52
Senator Money, 44
Southern Beauty, 55
Southern Giant, 49
Sovereign, 52
Steckler's Mammoth, 43
Stevens, 52
Stuart, 52
Success, 53
Sweetmeat, 54
Texas, 54
Texas Prolific, 54
Thomas, 54
Turkey Egg, Jr., 54
Turkey Egg, Sr., 54
Turner, 54
Twentieth Century, 49
Valsies, 55
Van Deman, 55
Westbrook, 61
Willingham, 56
Young, 56
Varieties recommended, 93
Alabama, 95
Florida, 95
Louisiana, 96
Mississippi, 95
North Carolina, 94
South Carolina, 94
Texas, 96
Virginia, 91
Veneer Shield-budding, 78
Waxed cloth, 75
Weevil, 146
Whip-grafting, 81
Woods. Charles D. publication by, 155
Woods, W. H. S.
publication by, 155
NUT CULTURE
IS THE
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JOURNAL
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End of Project Gutenberg's The Pecan and its Culture, by H. Harold Hume