PURCHASING AND PLANTING PECANS.
Since, in most cases, the trees are to be set in late autumn and early
winter, the trees should be purchased in late summer and early autumn.
Do not leave the purchasing of the trees until the last week, or the
last minute, before planting, but buy in good season, i. e., several
months before planting time. Too many forget about the trees until the
time for setting them out has come, and not infrequently the matter is
forgotten until after the season for planting is long since past.
The number of varieties in the commercial orchard should not be large.
No greater mistake can be made than that of planting a few trees each of
a large number of different varieties. Four or five, at most, are
sufficient; got fewer varieties, rather than more.
Trees can be purchased in two ways: They can be secured direct from the
nurserymen (usually by catalogue), or they can be purchased from agents.
By far most of the pecan trees are bought from the nursery, and by many
this method is preferred. If trees are secured from agents, be certain
that they are responsible persons, representing responsible firms; be
certain that they are properly accredited, i. e., have certificates to
show whom they represent, and if they have not these, then send them
off down the road, and the dog with them for company, if necessary. This
may seem to be harsh advice, but had it been followed by many purchasing
pecan trees in recent years, it would have been much to their advantage.
Plenty of seedling trees have been bought and planted in the belief that
they were good grafted or budded stock.
But agents, with all sorts of credits, have represented firms which were
not honest. Budded and grafted trees of certain well-known varieties of
pecans have been sold, which were not those varieties.
There is every reason to believe that scions have been taken from
ordinary seedling trees of any kind, inserted in stocks and sold for the
best varieties, and that a large number of trees have been substituted
and sold for what they were not. The prospective planter must depend
upon the honesty and integrity of the nurseryman, and should inform
himself on this point.
The National Nut Growers' Association has done no greater service to the
pecan industry than that which they have rendered in protecting the
public from fraudulent agents and nurserymen. Happy is the nurseryman
whose reputation for square dealing merits the trust and confidence of
tree-planters throughout the country.
COST OF NURSERY STOCK.
At present, the prices quoted for one and two year old stock of standard
varieties varies from 75 cents to $2.50 per tree, in small numbers, with
considerable reduction for trees in lots of one hundred or one thousand.
It is not improbable that these prices may be somewhat reduced within
the next decade, as greater efficiency is gained in propagating.
DETECTING BOGUS TREES.
How may budded or grafted trees be distinguished from ordinary seedlings
or from "doctored" seedling trees? Many people have purchased seedling
trees at a dollar or so per tree, under the supposition that they were
budded or grafted stock. It is well to know something of the
distinctions between them.
[Illustration: FIG. 27. External and Longitudinal Interior View of Bud
Union.]
If the trunks are straight and smooth, with bark uniform in appearance
throughout, the trees have not been budded or grafted, unless the point
of union is at the ground, and the trees having been grafted, and a
terminal bud on graft has grown. If the young trees have been budded,
the trunks will not be straight; a bend will be seen at the point where
the bud was inserted (see Fig. 27), and the scars of the union of the
veneer-shield or annular bud and the point at which the stock was cut
off will be distinctly noticeable. The bark above the point of union on
the grafted or budded stocks will be different from that below. There is
something characteristic about the color and appearance and the number,
size and shape of the lenticles of each variety of pecan, and while it
is impossible to describe this difference in appearance (it can only be
learned after a large amount of experience and observation), yet the
very striking difference between the seedling stock and the wood of the
variety worked upon, will serve as a useful index to the genuineness of
the trees in question.
If the trees have been grafted instead of budded, the same statement
will be true of the appearance of the bark. But the tree will be more
nearly or quite straight, and the marks and scars at the point of union
will be different. If the trees have been propagated by whip-grafting,
the scar will be shaped like the letter N, the scar on young trees
coming nearly or quite the whole distance across the stock. If the trunk
of a whip-grafted tree is split through the point of union, the N-shaped
mark in the form of a dark line may be distinctly made out, as shown in
the illustration. In trees propagated by cleft-grafting, the union scar
will be long, slim and V-shaped.
[Illustration: FIG. 28. External and Longitudinal Interior View of
Whip-graft Union.]
But to make the similarity between the bogus and genuine trees more
striking, the practice has been resorted to of scarring the stocks so as
to make them resemble the genuine article. This we have known to be
done, more particularly in the case of budded trees. Incisions were
made in the trunks of seedling trees to resemble those made in inserting
a veneer-shield or an annular bud. The incisions were made so as to
include a bud, and the top of the seedling tree was then cut off just
above the bud. A tree doctored in this way makes a very close imitation
of the real article, and the buyer needs to be on his guard. But the
appearance of the bark, as already noted, will serve as a guide. If in
doubt, it may be well to sacrifice a few trees and cut them carefully
open down to the pith just through the point of union. _If the trees
have been doctored, the tissues of the wood and the pith will be
continuous; but, if the trees are genuinely budded or grafted, the
tissues and pith will not be continuous._
[Illustration: FIG. 29. Annular bud growing (left). Split through same
union (center). A normal branch union (right). Pith non-continuous
(center); continuous (right).]
Finally, if still in doubt, send two or three trees to the botanist or
horticulturist of the Experiment Station of your State, and ask his
opinion.
PLANTING PECAN TREES.
Too often but slight attention is given to this important piece of work.
There is too frequently a disposition on the part of the person setting
trees of any kind to do the work as rapidly as possible without
consideration for the future welfare of the trees. Few realize that time
spent in careful, intelligent preparation of the soil and in setting the
trees is time well spent, and well paid for in the after development of
trunk and branch. Better a month spent in preparing the future home of
the young tree, than years of its life spent in an unequal struggle for
existence. More than that, the tree may die outright, and a year must
elapse before it can be replaced. It is generally stated that the pecan
is a slow grower, and yet I have seen trees from twelve to fourteen
years old which measured from thirty-five to fifty-seven inches in
circumference at the base, while under less favorable circumstances
others stood still for a period of six or seven years, or until they had
accumulated sufficient energy to overcome the untoward conditions of
their environments.
_Time._ The best time to plant pecan trees is during the months
of December, January and February. Planting should not be
delayed until late in spring, as the percentage of loss will be
very materially increased. Preference must be given to the
earlier portion of the planting season, as the wounds on the
roots will have had time to callous over, and the ground will
be firmly packed about the roots by the winter rains. Then,
with the opening of the growing season in spring, the trees
will be ready to make a good, vigorous start.
_Distance Apart._ The distance apart at which the pecan trees
should be set must depend upon the character of the soil and
the amount of fertility and moisture it contains. If planted
too close, the trees may become their own worst enemies. Too
close planting will not prove satisfactory. It is doubtful
whether the trees should ever be planted closer than forty feet
apart even on light lands, while on heavier soils this distance
should be increased to sixty, seventy-five or eighty feet.
TABLE OF DISTANCES
DISTANCE. NO. OF TREES NO. OF TREES
Rectangular System. Hexagonal System.
40 x 40 feet. 27 31
40 x 50 " 21
40 x 60 " 18
50 x 50 " 17 19
50 x 60 " 14
60 x 60 " 12 13
60 x 70 " 10
70 x 70 " 8 9
80 x 80 " 6
100 x 100 " 4
To find the number of trees that can be set on an acre for any
distance, not given in the above table, multiply the distance
apart in feet together and divide the product into 43,560, the
number of square feet in an acre. The result will be the number
of trees which can be put on an acre of ground.
PLANTING SYSTEMS.
For setting orchards a number of different systems may be used, but the
two best adapted to the pecan orchard, are the square or rectangular and
the hexagonal or septuple. If mixed plantings, such as pecans and
peaches, are to be made, then the quincunx system should be used and a
peach tree set in the center of the square or rectangle formed by every
four pecan trees.
_Square or Rectangular System._ In this system is included only
the methods of setting trees in rectangles, either square or
oblong. It is by far the most commonly used of all the systems,
and the ease with which a field can be laid off in rectangles,
is greatly in its favor.
The rows of trees intersect each other at right angles, and
cultivation may be carried on conveniently either crosswise or
lengthwise of the orchard. The planter has the choice of
placing the trees the same distance apart both ways, or of
planting them closer together in the rows than the distance
between the rows.
[Illustration: FIG. 30. Rectangular Planting System.]
It has been argued that space is not equally divided among the
trees, and while this is apparently true, yet, on the other
hand, the roots of pecan trees, in most cases, penetrate and
permeate all the space allowed in ordinary distances. The roots
will certainly secure all the food and moisture in the top two
or three feet of soil.
When trees are to be planted by this system, the stakes must be
set so as to be exactly in line, whether viewed from the end or
from the side of the field.
_Hexagonal, Septuple or Equilateral Triangle System._ By this
system, six trees are set equidistant from a seventh placed in
the center. The basis of the system is not the square, but the
circle, since the radius of the circle is approximately equal
to one-sixth of the circumference of the circle. The name
septuple, sometimes applied to this system, refers to the fact
that the number of trees in each group-unit is seven.
Equilateral triangle system refers to the planting of the trees
in equilateral triangles, but is identical with the hexagonal
or septuple.
[Illustration: FIG. 31. Hexagonal Planting System.]
It is the only system whereby each tree is placed equally
distant from each of its adjoining neighbors, and the only
system which equally divides the space among the trees. By this
method about fifteen per cent. more trees can be set per acre
than by the rectangular.
For permanent plantings, at regular distances, this system and
the rectangular should be recommended before other systems.
LAYING OUT BEFORE PLANTING.
Level and smooth the ground, harrow and pulverize thoroughly, then
proceed to stake the ground off, placing a stake for every tree.
_Laying Out Squares or Rectangles with the Plow._ If a good
plowman can be secured, very satisfactory work can be done with
the plow. In some cases a man can be found who needs nothing in
the way of a guide, except two or three stakes. But with a
sufficient number of stakes and a marker attached to the plow,
good results can be secured by almost any plowman.
Furrows should be run both lengthwise and crosswise of the
field, their intersections marking the place where the trees
are to stand. At each one set a stake.
It is essential that a true, square corner should be secured.
This may be done by sighting with an ordinary carpenter's
square set upon three posts.
_Laying Out in Rectangles with a Wire._ A wire, long enough to
reach down one side of the field, should be provided. Stretch
this straight out between two posts and mark off the distance
which the trees are to stand apart, upon it. At each point
marked, firmly twist a piece of small wire about the larger
one. These should then be soldered in place. It will not do to
have them shift. This wire may be rolled upon a roller when not
in use.
Measure off along both ends of the field and set small stakes
on the tree rows, at the marked places on the wire. Tightly
stretch the wire down the first tree row, attaching it firmly
at the ground level to a pair of good, stout posts. Then plant
a lath stake at each mark on the wire. Set all of them on the
outside of the wire, so as not to interfere with moving it.
When this row in completed, lift the end stake with the wire
attached, stretch on the second row, set the stakes as before
and repeat the operations until the work is completed.
_Laying Out in Hexagons._ Stretch the wire down one side of the
field and firmly set the tree stakes, or stake out the base
line by any method, firmly setting a stake for each tree. Then
procure two pieces of wire with rings at each end, the length
of each wire and ring to be exactly the distance between the
stakes as set on the base line. Stretch these wires out toward
the side where the next tree row is to stand. At the point
where the rings overlap set a stake for a tree. Remove wire
number one and set it on the third stake in the base line,
stretch the two tight and set a tree stake. Repeat as often as
necessary. In setting the third row of stakes, use the second
as a base line, and so on.
_Planting the Trees._ After setting a stake for each tree, the
ground is ready for digging the holes and setting the trees. A
planting board, such as is shown in the accompanying
illustration, should be provided. It is made of a piece of inch
board, four or five inches wide and five feet long. The ends
may be notched or holes may be bored in them. In the center of
one side, a notch, one and a half inches deep, should be cut.
Provide a large number of small wooden pins or sticks, about
one foot long and well sharpened.
When ready to dig a hole, place the planting-board so that the
notch in the side fits against the tree stake. Then place one
of the small pins in each of the holes or notches at the ends
of the board. Allow these to remain in the ground. Remove the
board and the tree stake and dig the hole.
[Illustration: FIG. 32. Planting-Board.]
The hole should preferably be dug just before setting the tree.
In some cases, however, it may be necessary to have all the
holes dug in advance. Make them wide and deep, six or eight
inches wider than the extended lateral roots and eight inches
deeper than the length of the taproot.
In setting the tree, place the planting-board back on the pegs
and place the tree at the right depth, against the notch in the
side. It will then stand exactly where a stake stood, and if
the stakes were in line, the trees will be also, if they are
kept perpendicular while the earth is being filled in. The
earth should be packed about the roots by hand, the tree being
set no deeper than it stood in the nursery.
To start the trees off well, one pound to one pound and a half
of a good fertilizer, analyzing about six per cent. potash,
five per cent. phosphoric acid and four per cent. nitrogen,
should be thoroughly mixed with the earth that is used in
filling in the hole. Preferably, only surface soil should be
used to place about the roots.
When the hole is filled in about three-fourths, water may be
applied to advantage, particularly if the weather is dry. A
good application should be given after the work is completed,
so as to establish the capillary movement of the water in the
soil.
The greatest care should be taken to prevent the roots from
becoming dry, if they do, the chances of their living, after
planting, are very greatly reduced.
From the time the trees are lifted from the nursery row until
they are set in the orchard, the sun should never be allowed to
shine on them. Neither should they be exposed to hot or drying
winds. Should it happen that the trees are received before
everything is ready for planting them, they should be unpacked
and healed in, in a shady place.
The roots of the trees must be pruned before planting, but this
should be done under a shed. All broken parts of roots should
be carefully cut off, leaving good, smooth surfaces, and the
taproot cut or pruned back, as described in the chapter on
pruning. When the pruning is finished, _the trees should be
wrapped in a damp blanket or in damp sacks and taken to the
field_. When needed for planting, they should be removed one by
one and set out.