TOP-WORKING PECANS.
Many of the pecan trees planted in groves have not fulfilled the hopes
of their planters. These trees, raised from large selected nuts, for
which the planters paid a dollar or more per pound, have not come true
to seed. Some are irregular, shy bearers; others, when they do
condescend to produce a few nuts, bear small-sized, inferior nuts, not
larger than ordinary playing marbles, while some produce a large crop of
good marketable nuts. Some are unhealthy, subject to the attacks of scab
and rosette. It goes without saying that such pecan plantings are
unprofitable. What is to be done with them? Briefly, this: Cut out and
destroy, root and branch, those affected by rosette, those which are
unhealthy, and top-work the remainder of those which do not produce a
sufficient quantity of marketable nuts of good quality.
Top-working may be profitably applied to another class of trees--pecan
trees in their native woods and thickets, and in some cases hickories,
viz.: Hicoria tomentosa, H. alba, and H. aquatica, may be top-worked.
Our knowledge is not sufficiently advanced in regard to top-working on
hickory to warrant us in making any very strong recommendations, but the
author has seen a large number of pecans worked on hickory, a few of
which were in bearing, and all appeared healthy and vigorous. There is
no good reason why hickories cannot be top-worked to advantage, and the
delights of amateur efforts along this line will amply repay the
attempt.
[Illustration: PLATE VI. A two year top-worked Pecan tree. Variety, Van
Deman.]
Again, seedling trees may be grown or purchased and set out in orchard
form. When these have grown to an inch or so in diameter and have
developed several branches, they may be top-worked. This method of
securing a pecan orchard is somewhat slow, and is open to the objection
that the buds or grafts frequently fail to take, and in consequence the
task of top-working extends over a number of years, resulting in trees
of irregular size and shape. But by this plan a planting of desirable
varieties can be secured at little expense, and provided time is not a
consideration, the plan will prove quite satisfactory indeed.
METHODS OF OPERATION.
It is best to insert both buds and grafts in parts having smooth bark,
though grafts can be placed in rough barked parts as well. Frequently
trees are in a very undesirable condition for top-working, and it should
be borne in mind that those branches nearest the center of the tree will
give the most satisfactory result in the rapid growth of buds inserted
in them. If the tree is not in good shape for working--i. e., if no
branches of desirable size and age are found in convenient places--the
tree should be partially trimmed to a pollard, cutting some of the main
branches back to stubs, and when shoots have started from these they may
be grafted or budded. In from six to twelve months from the time buds
have started from the branches thus cut back, under average conditions
the new shoots will have grown to sufficient size to permit of their
being budded or grafted. The best time to prune back trees to start new
shoots for top-working is early in the month of March. In removing large
branches there is always danger of splitting, because of the weight of
the heavy branches. This may be entirely obviated by sawing upward from
the under side of the branch as far as possible, then cutting from the
upper side downward. A branch will split off and drop without injury to
the remaining parts. All cut surfaces should be well covered with white
lead paint to prevent decay.
The method of procedure depends upon the size and age of the tree and
whether the tree is to be budded or grafted.
In top-working old trees, only a portion of the branches should be
worked at one time. If the whole top be removed at once, the tree
suffers a severe shock. Two or three years are necessary to top-work a
large tree, a half or a third of the top being worked each year. If the
trees are of small size, the whole top may be removed at one time.
CARE OF TOP-WORKED TREES.
For several months after the new top has commenced to grow, the scions
have but a slight hold upon the stock. The leaf surface is often so
large that a slight wind may twist them off. To prevent this, a number
of branches may be tied together, or they may be fastened to stubs of
branches left temporarily. Posts may be driven into the ground close to
the growing scions, to which they may be tied. Use soft bandages and
burlaps.
[Illustration: PLATE VII. An old Pecan tree Top-worked in the
branches.]