_Description of Seringapatam—Ferocious Games—Observations on
Lions and Tigers—Sent to Mysore—Tyranny of Tippoo—War
with the Nizam—Author put in Irons—Misery of his
Condition—Fate of some Bramins—Author separated from
some Companions in Misfortune—Marched to Chitteldroog—
Disturbed by Snakes—Expedient to procure Money—Anecdote
of a Fanatical Native—Visited by Apes—Singular Snake—
Forlorn Condition._
A brief description of Seringapatam and its environs may not be amiss
here. This capital of Mysore, (though Mysore itself, distant nine miles,
was, prior to Hyder’s usurpation, the seat of government,) is an island
in the midst of a continent, charmingly situated, and surrounded by the
Cavery river; distant from Madras 296 miles. It is about four miles in
length, and about one mile and a half in breadth across the middle,
where the ground is highest, whence it gradually narrows, and falls
toward the extremities.[10] At the west end there is a fort of very
considerable strength, about three miles in circumference, mounting at
least 190 pieces of cannon, including what were on the cavalices. Its
appearance, at about three miles’ distance, was calculated to strike
every beholder, being distinguished by magnificent buildings and ancient
pagodas,[11] contrasted with the more lofty and splendid monuments,[12]
lately erected in honour of the Mohammedan faith.
At the east end of the island is the pettah, or suburb, called
Sanagangam, which was finished while we were there; it was beautifully
laid out, about half a mile square, divided into regular streets, all
very wide, and shaded on each side with trees, surrounded by a strong
mud wall. It was designed for merchants and troops, and possessed all
the beauty and elegance of a country retirement, and was dignified by
the mausoleum of Hyder. They were about erecting a new and magnificent
palace in the year 1787, the last time I ever saw it but one, which will
be noticed hereafter. We were all mustered before Hyder, in his palace,
once, but not seeing much of the interior, I am not competent to give an
accurate description. It is a very extensive building, flat-roofed, with
two wings, one of which is his seraglio, and the other his treasury. The
front of the palace was an extensive open place, supported by strong
pillars, where the killadare and his retinue sat to administer justice;
the palace door being about four yards behind them. Four beautiful
Arabian mares, two elephants, and two palanquins, were always in waiting
when Tippoo was in his capital; but he approved of the latter mode of
conveyance most: I never saw him on horseback, and only once on an
elephant. In his person he was majestic, about five feet nine inches and
a half in height, with large eyes, an aquiline nose, and remarkably
broad shoulders; his complexion was about two shades lighter than quite
black. In short, he must have been a very powerful man, though in my
opinion, contrary perhaps to most, not possessing any great portion of
personal courage. I have never seen but one striking likeness of him
since I have been in England.
I was an eye-witness twice to his games, once before the peace of 1784,
and once after: the former will, I doubt not, be long remembered by our
gallant Sir David Baird, and many more of our officers, who were then
Tippoo’s prisoners, and in irons. The circumstance I allude to will be
presently mentioned, after I have endeavoured to describe his
performances. These games were something after the manner of the Pythian
or Olympic, and continued ten days without intermission. After the usual
preparations were arranged, which consisted of a strong rope network,
attached to stanchions fixed in the ground, forming a semicircle in
front of his palace, different descriptions of beasts were brought in,
viz. elephants, tigers,[13] buffaloes, and rams; then followed his
getiees, men who, being trained from their infancy to fighting, were
wonderfully active and strong; these were seated in different groups,
having come from different schools. The games commenced with the rams,
perhaps thirty or forty pair each day; their mode of fighting is well
known, and therefore needs no description: they would fight ferociously,
but were seldom suffered to be completely conquered. This being over,
the getiees would be sent for, who always approached with their masters
at their head, and after prostration, and making their grand salams,
touching the ground each time, they would be paired, one school against
another. They had on their right hands the woodguamootie, or four steel
talons, which were fixed to each back joint of their fingers, and had a
terrific appearance when their fists were closed. Their heads were close
shaved, their bodies oiled, and they wore only a pair of short drawers.
On being matched, and the signal given from Tippoo, they begin the
combat, always by throwing the flowers, which they wear round their
necks, in each other’s faces; watching an opportunity of striking with
the right hand, on which they wore this mischievous weapon, which never
failed lacerating the flesh, and drawing blood most copiously. Some
pairs would close instantly, and no matter which was under, for the
gripe was the whole; they were in general taught to suit their holds to
their opponent’s body, with every part of which, as far as concerned
them, they were well acquainted. If one got a hold against which his
antagonist could not guard, he would be the conqueror; they would
frequently break each other’s legs and arms; and if any way tardy,
Tippoo had means of infusing spirit into them, for there were always two
stout fellows behind each, with instruments in their hands that would
soon put them to work. They were obliged to fight as long as Tippoo
pleased, unless completely crippled; and if they behaved well, they were
generally rewarded with a turban and shawl, the quality being according
to their merit.
There were, at this time, two men of prodigious size and strength; one,
who was called the nabob’s getiee, from Madagascar, challenged the
other, whose name was Yankertramen, from Tanjour, to fight with
creeses.[14] This being made known to Tippoo, he ordered the latter into
his presence, and asked him if he would fight his getiee with a creese.
He immediately answered in the affirmative, prostrating himself at the
same time; when ordered to rise, he humbly solicited that Tippoo would
take care of his family, should he fall: in which he being satisfied,
creeses were brought, and one was delivered to each; this attracted the
utmost attention of, I suppose, not less than 20,000 spectators. All
eyes were bent upon these two powerful men. They stood fronting each
other for the space of ten minutes; the nabob’s getiee looked terrible
at any time, but more particularly so now. He was not so stout as his
opponent, but he was daring, and appeared sure of conquest. Tippoo
watched them narrowly, to ascertain if any symptoms of fear were shewn,
or if either of them would decline the combat; but finding them both
staunch, his heart, perhaps for the first time, relented, and he
graciously ordered both of them presents, and to withdraw, and be
friendly with each other.
Outside the semicircle, there would every day appear a man on lofty
stilts, with one of the Company’s uniforms on; at one time he would seem
to take snuff, at another tobacco; then he would affect to be
intoxicated; in short, it was intended as a burlesque on the English,
and to make them appear as ridiculous as possible in the view of the
numerous spectators.
This being over, the tigers and buffaloes would be introduced, the
former in large boxes, as they were caught in the jungles.[15] The
largest had generally chains round their loins. I have seen one of these
last-mentioned tigers defeat nine buffaloes, each of which would have
been an overmatch for the fiercest bull I ever saw in Europe. He was
chained at the time, though he had full scope to reach his antagonist.
Many of the smaller ones were let loose singly on the pulligars, or
pikemen. One of these fierce creatures, although he had twenty or more
pikes in him at once, broke them, and sprung over their heads, killing
one man, and wounding two others. It appeared singularly strange to us,
that this tiger and another, which made their escape out of the ring by
surprising efforts, should both of them make direct for the prison in
which our officers were confined. The brave Captain Baird,[16] now Sir
David Baird, was there at the time, with many more of our unfortunate
officers, who, no doubt, if living, will remember this circumstance.
Towards the close of the evening, would follow eight or ten pair of
these getiees, either of whom, had they one of their own holds of our
first-rate pugilist, would soon make him cry for mercy. In the evening
the elephants would be ordered in, when there would be lying on the
ground, a dozen or more supposed dead tigers.[17] The business of these
elephants was to trample on them, which the keepers could not compel
many to do, though they inflicted severe punishment on the refractory.
The stoutest elephant always appeared to me to be very uneasy at the
sight of a tiger! These games were concluded every night with fireworks,
some of which were superlatively grand and curious, exciting at once our
astonishment and admiration.
At length, the fatal 1784 arrived; and now we had the painful knowledge,
that our destiny was irremediable! A peace was concluded with Tippoo by
the East India Company, and we had the mortification of seeing numbers
of our officers and men marched out of the fort for Madras, while we
were cut off from every hope of ever reaching our country or our
friends. The humane reader will be able to appreciate and judge of our
feelings under those trying circumstances. For my own part, it preyed
upon my mind for three months, to such a degree as to reduce me much;
and I can positively say, I never went to sleep till nature was
completely worn out and exhausted with grief and tears!
One morning, we were all sent for in a great hurry, and seated on the
ground in front of the palace. An hour elapsed, during which period hope
and fear alternately succeeded. A few were quite sanguine that we were
going to be released. Vain imagination! We were escorted under a strong
guard to Mysore, nine miles from the capital, where we were separated,
and sent to different prisons. The spot I was in, was the fatal place
where Captain Rumney, and Lieutenants Fraser and Sampson, had their
throats cut;[18] and, about this period, Lieutenants Rutledge and
Spediman were Mohammedanized. The latter cut his own throat between the
Mysore gates; and the former, an amiable character, after surviving him
about three years, being suspected of correspondence with the English,
was sent to Nairandroog, or rock of death, perhaps as unwholesome a spot
as any in Asia. If this did not answer the end intended, that of putting
a period to his existence, it is highly probable that poison, or the
but-ends of muskets, did. This Nairandroog was the place to which the
afflicted Hindoos were sent by hundreds.
Whether we were ever demanded by the English, or not, we could not
ascertain, seeing nothing of the kind in any public paper, after we made
our escape; but we supposed we were, and assigned that as the cause of
our being sent to Mysore in such haste.
At this period, also, Tippoo laid siege to Mangalore, which was bravely
defended by Major Campbell, a king’s officer. Tippoo did not carry it,
for the French troops withdrew on hearing of the peace; but he hung the
killadare, or governor, who had surrendered the fort to the English.
This cruelty caused a remonstrance on the part of Mohammed Ali, the
killadare’s son, who had served with his father faithfully, and then
commanded six battalions of tolerably well-disciplined troops, clothed
in the manner of our Sepoys. His observations were received by Tippoo
with great indignation, and he ordered him to be beaten with a shoe or a
sandal, which is the greatest insult that can be given to a Mohammedan.
When this was communicated to the six battalions that he commanded, they
flew to arms, to resent the treatment of their chief; but, alas! they
were surrounded and disarmed, and nearly 2000 of these poor fellows had
their noses and ears cut off, and were then sent to hard labour; and in
order to degrade them more, they were dubbed with the epithet
“commutie,” or scavenger battalions. Their unfortunate commander was
sent to Seringapatam a prisoner, where he died of grief.
The English commissioners who were here at this time, John Huddlestone
and —— Sadler, Esqrs. who are now living, and two of the Directors of
the East India Company, must well remember this circumstance; yes, and
other circumstances, of a more important nature, namely, the causes
which induced them, knowingly, to abandon a number of fine youths,
including many officers, with several choice mechanics, altogether not
less than 100 British subjects, for reasons peculiar to themselves, to
the most merciless tyrant that ever disgraced authority. I will not add
what was told us by many who went with them in their palanquins from
Seringapatam, from the impression, that it _might_ not be strictly true;
but this I can affirm, that we were not noticed; and the above-named
gentlemen, while the prisoners lived, were followed by the curses of
all. The few that did survive were about nineteen.
Our lives were now at stake; we expected every hour to be our last by
poison, and coppers for that purpose were ready; but after keeping us in
the most alarming suspense for several hours, exposed to the scorching
heat of the sun, we were remanded to our prison.
Tippoo’s force at this time was equal to any, single-handed, in India;
but the Company not pressing their demands, or from some other cause,
for which we could not account, our lives were spared. At the expiration
of six months, we were again joined, and marched back to the capital,
where we were put in a square by ourselves, wondering what they were
going to do with us next; our guards, however treated us civilly, which
we looked on as a good omen. A month elapsed, when we were again
incorporated in his four slave battalions, and promoted to habildars,
equal to a sergeant; each of us having a silver plate, value two rupees,
to hang upon his breast. We were now once more separated; myself and
about twenty others were removed into four of his Christian battalions,
which I have before mentioned, and sent to Chindroypatam, a town situate
about four days’ march from his capital, the rest remaining where they
were.
Tippoo wished now to strengthen himself by an alliance with Nizam Ali
Cawn; in consequence of which, he sent his vackeil, or ambassador, to
demand his daughter in marriage to Abdel Killick, his eldest son. His
presents were not accepted, and his request was denied; in consequence
of which, an army was assembled of 100,000 men: they encamped near the
capital ten days, then struck their tents, and marched direct to the
Mogul’s territories, in order to chastise him for this insult. Our lads,
who were left in the before mentioned battalions, were taken by Tippoo
to this campaign. His marches were rapid, and he soon reached Idonia, a
strong fortress belonging to Nizam, to which he immediately laid siege;
and, after losing a great number of men, he got possession of the place.
One thing looked well in his character during this siege; opium and
bang, which are both much used by the Asiatics, and particularly in
their armies, he ordered to be collected, wherever found, and burnt in
the most conspicuous places in his camp. A few days after he had made
himself master of Idonia, he intercepted a letter from the Mahrattas, (a
designed thing on their parts,) stating, that they were in full march to
join the Nizam: this intelligence caused him to decamp with the greatest
precipitancy; and his retrograde movements were so rapid, both by night
and by day, scarcely halting four hours at a time, that numbers died of
fatigue. During the siege, two of our youths made their escape by
swimming across the river Tongabadra; the result was, the rest were
directly put in irons, and sent off to Patam. In their route to this
place, they were halted at Chindroypatam, the place in which we then
were; and on seeing their condition, and hearing the cause, it gave us
no small uneasiness, for we well knew we should partake of their fate.
The next morning they proceeded to Patam, and, three weeks afterwards,
we also were marched thither.
On our arrival, we joined them, and remained three months in a state of
starvation. One of our lads, James Fletcher, died, merely from want of
food. Nor was it in our power to relieve him, however we might wish to
do so; as we had not enough, even of the worst kind, to suffice nature;
and we every hour expected death in one shape or other. While we were in
this wretched state, brooding over our misfortunes, calculating on the
worst, which we had every reason to do, who should make his appearance,
one morning, but the myre, the same who had bound us so unmercifully
some years before! He was by no means a pleasing object to us, for we
well guessed he came on no friendly errand. Having morosely ordered us
to pack up what we had, the guards, which were doubled, hurried us away
to the square in front of the palace. Here, being ordered to sit down,
the guards surrounding us, we remained four hours, under a scorching
sun, nor could we procure a drop of water, or stir one step from the
spot. Here was a scene indeed! our women in tatters, our children naked,
and ourselves nearly in the same state, without food, or any means of
procuring it; the women weeping aloud, the infants crying for
nourishment, and ourselves expecting to be massacred. Whilst under these
trying circumstances, four men approached us: on their appearance,
something like a glimmering of hope seemed to shed a faint ray; but,
alas!
“How oft a day, that fair and mild appears,
Grows dim by fate, and mars the toil of years.”
It was over! They approached us, but with baskets laden with irons,
instead of food. This was no time for appetite. Had loaves and fishes
been spread before us, disappointed hope would have destroyed nature’s
cravings. Oh! if Hogarth had been present at this crisis, what a fine
subject for his pencil! Exclusive of the women and children, whose cries
now became loud and strong, we were ourselves differently agitated; some
wringing their hands, others casting a piteous look toward heaven, and
not a few looking at our persecutors (who were now exulting) with a
manly defiance. After being ironed two and two, to which we were well
accustomed, we were marched out of the fort, to the distance of a mile.
Several poor Bramins were with us in heavy leg-irons, and in that
condition forced to walk, or stride rather, as fast as their unfeeling
guards could make them go. Our situation was bad enough, but theirs was
still worse; we were certain their fate was sealed, but there was still
room for a little hope on our parts. Here we were halted for the night,
as motley a group of miserables as ever met together. In the evening
they gave us a small portion of rice, and the next morning early we were
on our march; but for what place we knew not. The Bramins continued with
us—for we were halted when they were behind—for about six miles, when
their guards took another road, and, no doubt, they were soon murdered.
About an hour after this, we were halted at a spot where three roads
met, and divided into three parties; when the division was complete, the
parties were driven one on each of those roads, and such was the haste
of the guards, that we were at some little distance before we knew we
were to be separated. Here we waved a final adieu to each other in this
world, as the sequel will shew.
The next day, the party I was in learned that our destination was for
Chitteldroog, about sixteen days’ march distance; and our poor wives and
children following us, made the march more than wretched. We had every
day given us our poor pittance of rice, with chiliq[19] and salt. The
result of our journey was our grand subject; our wives were assiduous
and indefatigable in their endeavours, which was no small consolation to
us under the most dreary prospects; and such was their affection, that I
am inclined to think some of them would have braved death in our stead.
Every evening, when we came to a halting place, we were lodged in one of
the Hindoo pagodas; and in one of these a circumstance occurred which
may be worth relating.
On one occasion, being asleep in a closely confined hole, we were
greatly alarmed, about two o’clock in the morning, by two large snakes
crawling over us.[20] It is impossible for me to attempt a description
of our sensations, particularly in the dark, and so crowded as we were.
I conceive our noise, aggravated by our fears, was the cause of those
creatures retiring; perhaps frightened as much as we were, as they
troubled us no more. We represented this affair to the priests of the
pagoda in the morning, who gave us a curious interpretation. When they
understood the story, they smiled at our foolish fears, and added, that
it was the most fortunate event that could have happened to us, and we
might consider it as a happy omen. I leave the reader to judge the
construction we put on their observations.
Three days after this curious visit, we arrived at Chitteldroog, a place
situated on seven hills, and which might very easily be made
impregnable. Many poor unfortunate wretches were put to death in this
fortress, and several paid the debt of nature in the same prison to
which we were sent. One week passed, when the smiths came and knocked
off our irons; something was also added to our allowance: what a
contrast in our minds, now, and fourteen days since! Here we were again
distributed in four battalions, of the same description as we had joined
five years before in Patam.
Of the other two parties, one was sent to Hyder Niger, and the other
marched back to the capital. One only survived at the latter place, viz.
Randal Cadman, whom I have before mentioned, and from whom we had the
information of the fate of the rest. Two made their escape from Niger,
of whom I have also spoken; and who met us at the Mahratta camp, with
two females belonging to their party, who gave them to understand,
amidst sighs and tears, that, shortly after they were gone, the rest had
their throats cut! that they had lost their husbands, and found means to
escape. They were in a wretched condition, but were seasonably and amply
relieved by these humane men.
The confidence of the natives here, in our medical abilities, led
several of us to take an advantage of their credulity, necessity being
the prompter, for we were often in a state of starvation. One
circumstance, among many, may suffice. The punishment, in India, of
cutting off the nose and ears, is common, but they have a method of
substituting a piece of their forehead for another nose: this operation
is painful indeed! But to my subject: John Levesley, who had been taken
in the same ship with myself, and who was a presumed doctor, undertook,
for six rupees, to put a nose on a poor wretch’s face, who had lost his
own fourteen years before. The ignorant man, believing in the abilities
of this surgeon, consented to undergo the most painful operation, that
he might accomplish the business. Accordingly, to work Levesley went.
His first performance was, cutting a piece sufficiently large from the
shoulder, and forming it in the shape he wanted it; this done, he
immediately scarified the remains of the old nose, and sewed the part of
the shoulder on. It remained for three weeks with every appearance of
doing well; but, unfortunately, the stitches decayed, and the artificial
nose fell off. The poor man, as his only alternative, demanded his six
rupees; but he might as well have asked for Tippoo’s turban jewel.
Here three tedious years rolled over our heads, during which period we
learned, that, previous to Hyder’s usurpation, this place was held by a
rajah or prince, happy in his subjects, having a district to himself, as
we were informed by some intelligent Hindoos; but in process of time,
Hyder got possession of this strong fortress. In consequence of this
revolution, a certain man of the cast of Bramins, whose covering I have
often seen, lay in one spot fourteen years: he uttered scarcely any
thing but imprecations against Hyder and his son Tippoo. The situation
he was in was so low, that it appeared to me strange how he escaped
destruction by inundations in the monsoon seasons. We were for three
years in the pettah, or suburbs; but all of a sudden, our habitation,
with the walls in which we were immured, being destroyed, we were
removed into the lower fort, during which time, about nine months, we
all saw this strange character, or the spot where he lay, rather;
hearing him speak frequently, and once or twice seeing his hands. We
often spoke to him, and sometimes he would reply, but at times he would
not. When he did speak, he would either use abusive language towards
Hyder, or ask for patamy.[21] We were informed that he had a guard over
him six months prior to our arrival, in order to detect the imposition;
but his supposed madness saved him, for the Mohammedans have a great
respect for all of this description. Many strange stories were told
about this singular person. All I shall add, is, that we were many
months near him, both by night and day, he still continuing the same
language, and lying in the same spot. We often laughed at the strange
stories relative to this man; but, from auricular and ocular
demonstration, we could not avoid believing some of them.
This place abounds with apes of the largest stature I ever saw, the
ourang-outang excepted, and the natives do not injure, but rather
indulge them. This made them bold, which was by no means an addition to
our comfort; for we found it absolutely necessary to act on the
defensive; one of our meals out of two being generally taken from us by
these depredators; and such was their temerity, that a stout stick would
scarcely alarm them. In short, we were forced to oppose cunning to
cunning; they to steal our rooties, (cakes baked on a flat earthen pan,)
and we to hinder them. They might frequently be seen in multitudes on
their inaccessible hills, parading in squadrons; and various reports
were handed to us relative to these creatures, but I pass them by as
such. A brief description of one more curious animal, and I will resume
my narrative.
We killed a snake at this place, not exceeding two feet in length; out
of the middle of its belly grew an arm, similar to a human arm, from the
elbow downwards; the whole of which was formed with the most exquisite
delicacy. The joints, the nails, and every part belonging to it,
equalled, if not exceeded, any thing I ever saw, in point of formation.
I have often regretted I did not bring its skin home, as I had it in my
possession; but at that time there was very little prospect of my
bringing home my own. Numbers of the natives who saw this reptile,
considered it as something ominous.
Often have I paraded in the most disconsolate manner, in the silence of
those delicious nights peculiar to that country, and which are not to be
described by the most masterly pencil; when the moon appears in the
midst of the firmament with her beams gradually dispersed, surrounded by
a soft curtain of clouds. But, alas! they were no beauties to me; the
ever-prevailing impression still corroding my mind, with my heart ready
to burst at the thought of being for ever cut off from all that were
near and dear to me. I had no prospect, not the most distant hope, of
ever seeing again my country, parents, friends, or one who was equally
the object of my tenderest solicitude. I have digressed thus, in stating
the ideas that continually preyed on my heart, because they were really
grievous to me.
The melancholy hours we passed here would take a more able pen than mine
to describe; in fact, I do not think any could do it justice. I have
observed before, that we were all young, yet none of us dared sing “Rule
Britannia,” or even hum it with impunity. We prohibited it between
ourselves, under the impression of bitterness, and the idea of every
hope being marred of ever seeing our country or friends again.
The taunts and insolence of the guards were no small addition to our
misery. We had the feelings of Englishmen, and we suffered from their
insults more severely than from their punishments. We could not forbear
uttering the most bitter invectives against them, although at the
expense of our lives, had we been heard; but we were almost unmindful of
their hate. Barbarity and cruelty were all we did, or could expect, from
a tyrant; therefore we were almost callous to his power to injure us. We
remembered our own native soil, where the freedom of the subject is
co-equal with that of his sovereign, and despised those wretches, who so
far swerved from the dictates of every honourable and manly principle,
as to treat us with such baseness.
When we could meet together, which at this period was very dangerous,
our conversation was very scanty, having no subject but our misfortunes
to discuss. Hence a question would be, after perhaps a long silence,
started by one of the party, Do you think we shall ever see our parents
or country more? This never failed to draw tears from some eyes, and
sighs from others’ bosoms; and here we could not refrain from inveighing
bitterly against the government. But, alas! of what use! Our hopes were
cut off, and we were secure. Patience, and an affiance in the Almighty,
were our only consolation.
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