We proceeded next day to Morat. Its lake is about two leagues in length
by three quarters of a league in breadth, and is said to be the only
lake in Switzerland where that voracious fish, the _silurus_, is found.
There are many vineyards in this vicinity, but the wine is very
indifferent. It is, however said to produce the best _Kirschrvasser_, or
Cherry brandy in Switzerland. Morat is celebrated in history for the
memorable victory obtained under its walls, by the Swiss, over the
formidable army of the last duke of Burgundy in 1476. The bones of the
Burgundians were piled up by way of monument on the field of battle. The
triumph of the Swiss over their invaders was recorded by many
inscriptions, of which the following is admired for its simplicity.
D.O.M.
Caroli incliti et fortissimi Burgundiæ ducis exercitus
Muratum obsidiens, ab Helvetiis cæsus, hoc sui
Monumentum reliquit, 1476.
This trophy was destroyed by the French in 1798; as they, perhaps,
feared that this memorial of the success of the Swiss, in contending for
their liberty, should incite them again to rise against the descendants
of those whom they had formerly defeated; and their vanity was probably
hurt by the existence of a record, disadvantageous to their countrymen.
We dined at the neat little village of Seedorf, and proceeded in the
evening in an open carriage to Berne. Part of the road is very hilly,
and at one time we had an interesting prospect of the island of _St.
Pierre_, and the end of the lake of Neufchâtel, at about five or six
leagues distance. About half a league from Berne we passed the _Aar_
(which is here a broad and rapid stream) by a long bridge of wood,
covered according to the general custom in Switzerland.
The city of Berne presents a _beautiful coup-d'oeil_, and is one of the
few places I have seen, where the interior does not greatly diminish the
impression, occasioned by the distant prospect. The road was lined by
lofty trees, and presented a very cheerful scene.
Berne is deservedly considered as _one of the handsomest cities in
Europe_; it stands on a hill surrounded on two sides by the beautiful
stream of the Aar; it is surrounded by higher grounds richly cultivated,
and interspersed with woods, whilst the view is terminated by the snowy
summits of the Alps.
The chief street is half a league in length. The houses, which are in
general uniform, are built of free-stone upon piazzas, and have a
stately appearance, and there are several towers which add to the
general effect. In the middle of the street, runs a rapid stream, and
there is sufficient space for two carriages to pass at each side of it.
Fountains are also placed at regular distances. The piazzas are flagged
and kept extremely neat; but, I should think, that in this climate they
must make the houses cold in winter. This was the first place since my
departure from London, where I found a flagged way for the convenience
of pedestrians.
Berne is not a city of very remote antiquity, having been founded in
the year 1191. It is 1650 feet above the level of the sea. The
fortifications are kept in tolerable order, but from the height of most
of the surrounding hills, above the city, cannot be considered as of
much utility. In the trenches are kept several very large stags, and
also several _bears_; there being an annual rent of 1200 livres for
their support. This animal is thus favoured, as being the _armorial
bearing_ of the city (to which it gives name) and these arms are every
where to be seen, there being few barns without them. There are many
handsome churches in Berne: the tower of the cathedral is very fine, and
it contains many windows of stained glass. The public library is well
worth visiting; as is also the _botanic_ garden, which is on a most
extensive scale; in it is placed the tomb of the celebrated _Haller_. I
was much struck by the great number of chemists' shops in Berne. The
bakers' shops also are very numerous, and the bread is inferior to none
in Europe.
A stranger is surprised to see the _convicts chained to the carts_
which are constantly in use to keep the streets clean. I confess the
sight displeased me, and this system would not be tolerated in England,
where I think there was an attempt to introduce it during the reign of
Edward the Sixth. The objects that most pleased me, at Berne, were the
_public walks_, which are unequalled by any I have _ever_ seen, in
respect to their number, extent, and the neatness with which they are
kept. The views from some of these walks are quite magnificent; one, in
particular, on an eminence beyond the city, which follows the course of
the Aar for a long distance, commands a view which can never be
forgotten by these who have seen it. The city is a striking object at a
distance from the number of its spires; but although, from the
spaciousness of its streets, it covers a good deal of ground, yet it is
by no means populous, the inhabitants being only 11,500, but there are
no mendicants. The public roads, in the Canton of Berne, are kept in
excellent order, and every thing indicates the activity of the
administration. The government is an aristocracy, and I was informed
the chief power of of the state is vested in about twentyfour of the
principal families. There are, doubtless, in general, many strong
objections against this form of government, but the comfort, opulence,
and appearance of content, which is remarked in the Bernese is such,
that it is impossible to suppose they are not well governed; the least
observant traveller may soon perceive, by the appearance of a people,
whether they are subject to a free or to a despotic government. I
cannot, however, subscribe to Pope's opinion,
"That which is best administered is best."
The _form_ is still in my judgment the first requisite; nor can I agree
that the goodness consists in the mere administration. I visited the
agricultural establishment of M. de Fellenberg, at Hofwyl, two leagues
from Berne, where may be learnt the principles of rural economy, and
where annual fêtes are given for the encouragement of farming; and I
also made an excursion to Hindelbanck, three leagues distant, where is
a much admired monument, erected from a design of M. Nahl; it represents
his wife, who died in child-bed, breaking; from her tomb with her child
in her arms. The Canton of Berne, before the separation from it of the
Cantons of Vaud and Argovia, formed about a third of Switzerland; its
population is now about 300,000. The country is fruitful, but like the
rest of Switzerland does not afford a sufficient supply of corn for its
inhabitants. Its fruit and vegetables are excellent. Its mountains feed
vast herds of cattle, and there is abundance of game. Its exports are
principally horses, cottons, watches, and kirschwasser, (or spirit
extracted from the cherry) there are manufactories of silks, and woollen
stuffs, and its gunpowder is in much estimation throughout Europe. The
salt comes mostly from France, but does not cost above five sols the
pound. Groceries are still dear, but are much reduced since the downfall
of the continental system. This Canton first entered into the Swiss
Confederation, in 1353. I made some enquiries respecting clergy, from a
most respectable minister of my acquaintance, who informed me, that the
senate appoint to all ecclesiastical benefices--that the clergy are
divided into _synods_ which assemble separately every year under the
presidency of a _Dean_, to examine into the conduct of each pastor, and
to deliberate in the presence of the _Bailiff of the District_,
concerning ecclesiastical affairs. The criminal code is well arranged,
and justice is administered with a promptitude that merits the highest
praise, since legal delay often proves worse than injustice.
I was doubtful in what direction I should next proceed, when I was
induced, as the season was advanced, to give up the idea of visiting
Oberland, and to accompany a gentleman going to Lucerne; if the country
was less romantic than that which I lost the opportunity of seeing, I
was with a companion who would have rendered an excursion in any country
entertaining. We left Berne in an open carriage, and took the road to
Worb, where we visited a _sawmill_, and were much pleased with that
useful invention. There are near the village several of the most
extensive bleach-greens in Switzerland. At Luzelflüh we passed the river
Emmen, and soon after stopped some time whilst oar horses rested. I have
never been in a country where horses are taken better care of; they are
always in excellent condition, and after mounting any considerable hill,
the driver does not fail to give them some slices of bread.
As we proceeded, we were struck with the profusion of autumnal crocuses,
with which the fields were enlivened, and stopped to sleep at the
inconsiderable village of Sumiswald, where the inn, like the rest of the
houses, was entirely built of wood. We were shewn into an apartment
where several peasants were at supper, and on the table lay a newspaper,
which (although its date was not very recent) seemed to interest them
extremely. Several more peasants having come in, we were, as strangers,
conducted into a more private room, but it was so _small_, as to give us
the idea that we were in a _box_. Our hostess was not long in preparing
supper, and as it was _extremely frugal_, she produced for us a bottle
of _Neufchâtel wine_, of much better quality than one could have
expected to meet with in so retired a situation. We set out at an early
hour next morning, and, after passing through a vast forest of fir,
arrived to breakfast at Zell, in the canton of Lucerne, where the number
of chapels by the road-side announced that the Roman Catholic was the
established religion. The valley beyond Zell is extensive and well
watered. The peasants display much ingenuity in _irrigating_ their
meadows. The orchards are numerous, and, as well as the meadows, are
refreshed by _ductile streams_. In the centre of the valley rises a
lofty eminence, on the summit of which are the remains of the castle of
Hapstalla, which, half concealed by a mass of wood, forms a conspicuous
object amidst the cultivation of the surrounding scenery. The small
towns of Huttweil and Willisan present nothing worthy of remark; but
Sursee is a neat town, and the lake of Sempacli adds greatly to the
cheerful appearance of the country, which it waters to a considerable
extent. The town of Sempach is noted in history for the defeat of
Leopold, Duke of Austria, in 1386, by the forces of the Swiss
confederation. The Duke, together with his chief nobility, perished in
the engagement, which is further memorable by the heroism of _Arnold
Winkdried_. The approach to Lucerne along the river Reuss is singularly
beautiful, the banks are steep and well wooded, and the distant
appearance of the city, front the number of its turrets and spires, is
highly impressive. Its situation is certainly superior to that of any
city in Switzerland (Berne perhaps excepted). The mountains which
surround that part of the lake seen from the town, immediately reminded
me of the magnificent scenery of Killarney. The beauty of its situation,
and the imposing aspect which Lucerne presents at a distance, renders
the gloominess of its interior the more striking; and I do not know,
whether coming from Berne, where all is activity, gave me the
impression, but I think I never was in a more melancholy and deserted
town of the same magnitude. The population is only 4,000; but, to judge
from its extent, it might contain at least three times that number. It
is difficult to account exactly for the causes of this inactivity, but I
should be inclined to think some blame attaches to its government, as
here are no traces of that beneficial superintendence which is so
perceptible at Berne, This city cannot even boast of a public library.
There are at Lucerne several curious wooden bridges, to join the
different parts of the town separated by the river and the lake. They
are from 5 to 600 feet in length, and one of them contains a vast number
of paintings from scriptural subjects, and also from the Swiss history.
There are several handsome buildings at Lucerne, but many towns that
cannot boast of such a number, much exceed it in general appearance.
We observed a great quantity of fruit for sale, and good peaches for one
sol each. The celebrated plan, or rather, model, of this and the three
surrounding cantons, by General Pfiffer, is to be seen here on payment
of thirty sols; it is well worthy of a visit, and the General is said to
have refused _ten thousand pounds_ for it. Buonaparte is said to have
wished to possess it.
The lake of Lucerne, called also the lake of the _Four Cantons_, or the
_Waldstraller See_, is one of the most picturesque pieces of water in
Switzerland, and by its numerous windings, as well as by the rivers
which fall into it, affords facilities for commerce, which are
astonishingly neglected.
Mont Pilate rises majestically from the lake. It is, perhaps, one of the
highest mountains in Switzerland, if measured from its base, and not
from the level of the sea. Its elevation from the level of the lake is,
according to the measurement of General Pfiffer, not less than 6000
feet. Its name was, it is thought, given it by the Romans, from the
accumulation of snow upon its summit.
Mount Rigi, so generally visited by travellers, presents another
distinguished feature in this romantic country. The ascent to this
mountain having been within a few days rendered extremely difficult by
a fall of snow, we were advised not to attempt it, and I the more
readily acquiesced, having found the ascent to Montanvert difficult,
although unobstructed with snow. I therefore set out to visit two
classic spots in the history of Switzerland, which distinguish the banks
of this lake; first, the Grütli (the Runnimede of Switzerland), a field
now covered with fruit-trees, where the neighbouring cantons on the 12th
of November, 1307, first took the engagement to found the liberty of
their country. They carried their plan into execution on the 1st of
January, 1308, by forcing their tyrannical governors to quit a country
thenceforward destined to be free. The second place is about a league
and a half distant, it is the Rock of Aschen-berg, 5240 feet above the
level of the lake (which is here 600 feet deep), on a part of which,
called Tell Platte, that patriot killed the tyrant _Gessler_ here is a
small chapel. I also visited the little town of _Gersau_ (which was, by
the French, united to the canton of Schweitz), remarkable as being the
smallest republic existing in Europe, as it contains only _one hundred
square toises_, and from 900 to 1000 inhabitants, who subsist chiefly by
agriculture; there is besides, a small manufacture of cotton. Their
_metropolis_ is a neat village, where only, perhaps; a pure democracy
subsisted without anarchy and dissensions.
The canton of Schweitz, which, at present, gives name generally to the
whole confederation of cantons, is said to have been first inhabited by
some persons forced to _quit Sweden_ by religious differences. The union
of this canton to those of Uri and Unterwald, first suggested that more
extended confederacy, so essential to the existence of these diminutive
states.
Here the Roman Catholic is the only religion tolerated, but intolerance
in Switzerland is not peculiar to the Roman Catholic cantons, as in
some, _Calvinism_ only is permitted. At Brunnen I met some persons going
on a _pilgrimage_ to the shrine of Notre Dame des Ermites, at
Einsiedlen, one of whom was a Frenchman, decorated with the _Lys_. It
would be well for the Bourbons if all their subjects were possessed of
but a small part of the loyalty which this gentleman expressed for them.
Brunnen is a large and handsome town, situated on the lake; it was here
that the cantons of Schweitz, Uri, and Unterwald, concluded their
perpetual alliance. Altorf is the capital of the canton of _Uri_, it
contains many handsome houses, and here is the statue of William Tell,
in the place where he was condemned to shoot the arrow at his son. The
cattle in this Canton, as well as in Schweitz, are large and handsome. I
was told that many of their favourite cows had silver bells fastened
round their necks. The horses are also provided with tails of a large
size, the noise of which I thought extremely unpleasant, although often
obliged to listen to it for many hours together. Stantz is the chief
town of Unterwald, but is only remarkable for its being prettily
situated. _In the three original_ cantons, every citizen on attaining
the age of sixteen, has the right of suffrage in the General Assemblies.
On my return to Lucerne from this excursion, it appeared more gloomy
than ever, and I determined on quitting it next morning for Zug. The
Pope's nuncio resides in this town, as being the capital of the chief
Roman Catholic canton, and I observed sentinels at his door, although
there were none at the gates of the city. Lucerne was, under the French
system, the seat of the general government of Switzerland, now removed
to Zurich. The canton of Lucerne is, in general, well cultivated, and
contains not less than 100,000 inhabitants. Between Lucerne and Zug, I
observed a number of peasants practising with the ancient weapons of
William Tell, which they appeared to use with great dexterity.
The badness of the road retarded considerably our arrival at Zug (Zoug,
as it is pronounced and written in German); & small but neat town, and
the capital and only town of its Canton, which is the least in
Switzerland, containing only 30,000 inhabitants, of whom 2500 inhabit
the capital. The lake, which washes the town, is about three leagues
long by one broad; one side of it presents a few mountains, but the
other (nearest the town) is flat, marshy, and uninteresting. Between Zug
and Zurich, we passed over the field of battle, where Zuingle, the
reformer, lost his life; the plain is, I think, called Cappel. The road,
which is still indifferent, passes through a country which resembles a
continued orchard. We passed the river _Sill_ by a long covered bridge,
and stopped at a neat inn, where we found some honey not inferior to any
in France, although here they do not think it necessary (as in Poitou)
to carry the hives of bees about the country, that by _travelling_ they
may collect every sort of perfume which it affords. Above the inn is a
mountain of vast height, which commands an extensive prospect over the
surrounding country. We soon after beheld one of the most magnificent
scenes of which Switzerland can boast, the view of the lake of Zurich,
from the hill above the village of Horgen. As it was evening when we
arrived there, I could judge of the justness of Zimmerman's beautiful
description of it at that time, which I had often admired at a period
when I had but faint expectation of ever seeing the scene itself.
Before visiting Switzerland, I had often felt surprise, on considering
the great variety of states which subsist in a country of such
comparatively limited extent; but I no longer felt that astonishment,
when I saw how completely many of the Cantons are divided from each
other, by chains of mountains, and how greatly their inhabitants differ
in their dress, manners, and religion. In one day, in the cantons of
Berne, Lucerne, and Zug, I saw three perfectly distinct modes of dress;
and the enormous sleeves and crape head dresses of _Berne_, compared
with the large flat hats, and short petticoats of Lucerne, are as
totally different costumes as could be supposed to prevail in two of the
most remote countries. The _political_ divisions of Switzerland are
almost as numerous as its geographical; and there are few countries
where more diversities of opinion prevail, respecting the means of
securing that liberty which is the boast of its inhabitants.
At a distance, Zurich seems surrounded by beautiful hills, descending
gradually to the river Limmat, which, issuing from the lake, divides the
city into two unequal parts. These bills are rich in pastures and
vineyards, interspersed with neat cottages; the horizon is bounded by
the mountains of Utliberg, which are connected with the Alps; forming,
altogether, a very striking and interesting picture.
* * * * *