I have been assured that in one part of the Canton of Appenzell, the
population amounts to 562 per square mile. It is one of the most
secluded parts of Switzerland, and is famous for the music called the
_Ranz des Suisses_. The Alps greatly increase the surface of Switzerland
when compared with less mountainous countries, and it therefore can
support vast flocks in situations where agriculture would be
impracticable. I have been frequently surprised to see cattle in places,
whither they must have been carried by the inhabitants. The number of
the cattle, in many of the Swiss Cantons, greatly exceeds that of the
inhabitants.
_Haller_ has observed that Switzerland presents, as it were, three
distinct regions; that on the tops of _the mountains_ are found the
plants indigenous in Lapland; _lower down_, are found those of the Cape
of Good Hope; and the _valleys_ abound with plants peculiar to
Switzerland, besides others which are found in the same latitude. I
observed in a former chapter, that the great occupation of the
inhabitants of Geneva consists in the manufacture of watches, clocks,
&c. and having a desire to see some specimens of their workmanship, I
accompanied a friend, who had purchased a _musical snuff-box_, to the
workshop of its fabricator, who although he was of the first celebrity
in Geneva, had no warehouse in a more accessible situation than his
workshop on the fifth story. I afterwards found that most of the
watchmakers had their workshops at the tops of the houses, which here,
as in Edinburgh, are mostly occupied by several families, who have a
common stair-case to their apartments. I was much pleased with the
display of ingenuity in this warehouse, and found that many of the
articles were intended to be sent to Paris, to Asia, &c. Geneva itself
could not, of course, supply purchasers for such a profusion of
expensive mechanism. The _taste_ of many of the articles, is by no means
such as would ensure them a ready sale in London.
There are at Geneva many pleasant _circles_ or _societies_, who have a
common apartment to meet in within the city, where the papers are taken
in; and often a garden in the neighbourhood for their recreation. I was
introduced to one of these circles, and went to their garden, which was
large and well-shaded with walnut trees. About the centre was a large
pleasure house, furnished with billiard, chess, and backgammon tables.
Some of the party were engaged at _bowls_; their game differs from ours
in many respects, as here they prefer a gravel walk or uneven surface,
and they throw the bowl a considerable height into the air, instead of
letting it glide gently along. I became acquainted with a French
gentleman, much advanced in years, who had resided here chiefly since
the French Revolution. He told me his head had been _twice laid on the
block for execution_, and that the _whole_ of his family had perished
during the troubles in France: he therefore did not wish to return into
his country, which would only recall melancholy recollections; but he
rejoiced much to see the royal family again seated on the throne. It is
to be feared, that there are, in many parts of Europe, several
individuals in equally unfortunate circumstances, after the dreadful
carnage occasioned by the continued succession of wars with which it has
been ravaged. I must not take my leave of Geneva without mentioning,
that there are few places which afford more of the requisites to a
pleasant residence. The walks and rides in its vicinity, are very
numerous, and abound with interesting prospects. The view of the city
from the village of Coligny, on the Savoy side of the lake, is highly
impressive. The junction of the rivers _Arve_ and _Rhone_ forms another
very fine scene. The waters of the Rhone are at least three times
greater than those of the Arve, and are of a transparent blue colour,
whilst those of the Arve are of a milky hue, something like the
appearance of the Rhone when it first enters the Lake of Geneva, where
it leaves the tint it acquired from the mountain snows and torrents. The
Rhone seems for a considerable distance to retire from any amalgamation
with the Arve, but at length assumes a less transparent aspect.
About half a league from Geneva is the town of Carrouge, which at one
period was in some degree its rival in trade, but is at present by no
means in a flourishing state. Its future destiny remains to be decided
along with those of more important states, at the approaching Congress
of Vienna. The general opinion seems to be that the Carrougians wish to
be reunited to France; but the King of Sardinia has invited them to
submit to his authority.
I walked one morning to St. Julian, about two leagues from Geneva; it is
pleasantly situated in that part of Savoy which is ceded to France, and
which is in fact the most essential part of the country, as it is said
this division materially interrupts the communication between those
parts which remain with the King of Sardinia. The object in visiting St.
Julian, was principally to see the plain, where after a sharp contest,
the Austrians were defeated by little more than half their number of
French troops, but having received reinforcements, renewed the action
and were victorious. It must be confessed, that the Austrian troops are
much inferior to the French; and the latter having so frequently
defeated them, feel quite indignant against the Austrians for the part
taken by their government in the invasion of France, and the
restoration of the Bourbons.
Most of the French officers I have met with indulge the hope, that some
differences at the Congress may occasion a fresh war with Austria. The
French in general join the officers in looking forward to the recovery
of what they contend are their natural limits--the Rhine and
Belgium;--and after so many years of war, are dissatisfied at having no
conquests to boast of.
It cannot be however expected that the great bias given to the French in
favour of war, by their late ruler, should speedily subside; but the
restless and impatient spirit which at present prevails in France, and
which would engage immediately in a fresh war, must be in some degree
restrained by the exhausted state of their finances; and as it is, many
of the taxes are much complained of.
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