PART XIV.

ENRICHED ARMOUR.

This class of armour was more for parade purposes than for actual

service in the field, and it was much used in the lists. Most suits of

the kind were provided with a set of reinforcing pieces for jousts and

tourneying. These pieces have already been fully described under “The

Tournament” heading, and illustrated in Figs. 10 and 11. The amount

of artistic skill of the very highest order that was lavished on the

ornamentation of armour in the later “middle ages,” and especially

during the “renaissance,” was a remarkable feature of the times, and

artists of the greatest repute found constant and lucrative employment

in designing for this purpose. Suits were finely and delicately chased,

engraved, russeted, and enriched with gold, embossed, damascened,

appliqued, and decorated with repoussé work.

[Illustration: Fig. 31.--Suits by Jörg Seusenhofer of Innsbruck.]

Italy and Germany were the workshops for the finest specimens, and

Milan, Brescia, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Innsbruck, Venice, Florence,

besides other places, vied with one another in the production of

specimens of consummate skill and elegance. French examples were

coarser and less artistic in every way, while there was but little

of knightly armour made in England, and that little, excepting for a

very brief period, was of a vastly inferior description. The number

of artists and craftsmen, in widely different branches of art and

manufacture, who were employed to design, turn out, and finish a suit

of armour, or a weapon for war or for the chase, was simply legion;

and, of course, in the case of enriched suits, or arms, still more

were brought into requisition. There is the designer, modeller, steel,

silver and gold smiths, carvers, enamellers, inlayers, engravers,

repoussé or workers in hammered work, damasceners, polishers, and

hosts of other craftsmen, each contributing his quota of industry and

skill to one complete whole. Artists of the very highest celebrity,

such as Donatello,[33] Michael Angelo, Albrecht Dürer, Leonardo da

Vinci, Benvenuto Cellini, and Hans Holbein, had no higher ideal than

in designing for this kind of work, and some of them were engaged

in engraving also. It is well known that many armour-smiths employed

other artists for designing and ornamentation, while others, like Kunz

Lochner of Nuremberg, did their own embellishing as well as the smith’s

work. An illustration is given in Fig. 31 of two very fine suits by

Jörg Seusenhofer of Innsbruck. They are both tastefully engraved, and

appear to be of a somewhat earlier make than the archducal suit by the

same master, referred to in a previous chapter, and differ from it, as

well as from each other, in some rather important features, especially

in the form of the cuirasses and tassets. Only one of the three has

pikeguards. These suits were made about 1540.

[Illustration: Fig. 32.--Cuirass and Tassets, at Dresden.]

There is a chastely enriched harness in the Kriegswaffen-Saal at

Dresden attributed to Wilhelm von Worms. A drawing is given in Fig.

32 of the cuirass and tassets. On the left side of the breastplate is

engraved a figure of a knight kneeling before the crucified Christ on

the cross. The top of the breastplate is tastefully ornamented with

a shield, with foliations on either side. This example is specially

valuable, as it bears the date of make--1539.

An example in black and white may be seen at Berlin, the bright spaces

being engraved. The breastplate is adorned with an engraved figure of

Christ on the cross, and the gorget bears the legend: SOLVS SPES MEA

CHRISTVS. A rondelle protects the right armpit. The left pauldron is a

restoration. The suit dates about 1570.

There is a remarkable harness at Berlin, dating from about the

middle of the sixteenth century. The cuirass, taces, and tassets

are banded with an ornamentation of chevrons, which are bright and

black alternately. Each row is defined with lines of brass, probably

originally gilded. The cuisses are bright on the upper portions, which

are enriched alternately with piping and small overlapping plates like

shillings; the lower portions are black, and so also are the jambs.

The sollerets are small and “bear-paw,” the extremities adorned with

alternate bright and black flutings; the pauldrons are treated in the

same manner. The rerebraces are ornamented with thick, circular coils

to resemble puffs; there are no coudières, but the joint is rendered

mobile by eleven narrow lames. There is a boy’s harness of similar

make at Vienna, by Hans Seusenhofer, dating about 1511. This suit is

obviously a copy of the civil dress of the time.

SUIT AT ALNWICK CASTLE.

This is a very chaste and elegant Italian suit (Fig. 33), dating

from the last quarter of the sixteenth century. It is ornamented in

the banded Italian style; the ground of repoussé work, with its rich

minute foliations in low relief, is gilded, while the rest of the steel

remains bright. The general style of the ornamentation is alternate

chevrons of bright steel and minute repoussé work. The decorative

work on the pauldrons and genouillières is, however, much bolder in

character than on the rest of the armour. A very similar style of

ornamentation may be seen on a tilting suit given in Skelton, vol.

i., Plate VIII., and dated by him 1543. The Alnwick harness is freely

studded with brass-headed rivets which have been gilded.

The helmet is in four pieces, and highly characteristic of the Italian

school of the period.

The gorget is comparatively modern, but conveys the idea that it was

copied from the original piece owing to dilapidation, and but for the

ornamentation it would pass even with close observers when the suit is

set up.

[Illustration: Fig. 33.--Suit at Alnwick Castle, Northumberland.]

The pauldrons are very beautiful, and laminated at the shoulders

and upper arm. The rerebrace and vambrace are finely formed and

ornamented; the former is laminated.

The coudières are pointed at the elbows, with side-guards which

continue round the arms.

The gauntlets are articulated, with thumb-plates, and a salient ridge

runs across the knuckles. One of them, like the gorget, is of a more

recent date than the main portion of the suit.

The cuirass is specially long and handsome. A broad piping borders the

top and arm-holes. A tapul runs down the centre, projecting in a hump

towards the middle. On the right side is a lance-rest, and on the left

are holes for affixing a grand-guard. The lower portion of the cuirass

consists of three narrow laminated plates, running almost horizontally,

and fastened together by brass-headed rivets, which were originally

gilded. The tassets are riveted to the bottom rim of the cuirass. These

pieces consist of ten lames, with gilded rivets. A special feature is

that the tassets can be shortened or lengthened at pleasure, the last

four lames being detachable--clearly an arrangement for fighting on

foot or on horseback. Other examples of this kind have already been

given. The upper section is complete in itself with an ornamental rim,

as is the lower one. This is a contrivance often met with in the second

half of the sixteenth century. The attachment is accomplished by a

screw catch and sliding rivet.

The backplate, which terminates in a garde-de-reine, has a piped border

round the top and shoulders, and there are two lames at the bottom.

The cuisse, like the tasset, is in two sections, with similar means of

attachment. The genouillières are attachable to the jambs by catch and

sliding rivets. The knee-guards are small. The jambs are banded down

the centre, in a line with the genouillières and cuisses. The sollerets

are the variety styled “bec-de-cane,” being almost the shape of the

foot. Both jambs and sollerets must be classed with the gorget and

one gauntlet as restorations; they are all most beautifully done. Some

details will be clearly seen in Fig. 34.

[Illustration: Fig. 34.--Some details of the Suit at Alnwick Castle.]

The harness already referred to as having been worn by the

Prince-Bishop of Salzburg about the year 1600, and illustrated in Fig.

35, is a beautiful suit by the celebrated Milan armour-smith, Lucio

Piccinino. It is profusely inlaid with gold, and the ornamentation is

most elegant. The sumptuous and elaborate decoration, which is in the

banded Italian style in repoussé or hammered work, with arabesqued

foliations, is interspersed with medallions encircling male and female

figures. The helmet and suit throughout is closely in touch with the

elegant Italian school of the end of the sixteenth century, which,

however, already erred on the side of redundancy in ornamentation.

The close of all great periods culminates with this great fault,

sharply marking the beginning of the end; the waning vigour of the

theme eked out by a profusion of detail. The prince-bishop’s arms are

engraved on the cuirass, and the historic character of the suit invests

it with special interest and importance. The series of reinforcing

plates belonging to it may be referred to in Figs. 10 and 11. Lucio

Piccinino’s style marked the last stage before the decline of art. He

came of a family of artists; his father was the celebrated sword-smith,

Antonio Piccinino. Other examples of Lucio’s handiwork may be seen in a

richly decorated helmet and shield at Vienna.

[Illustration: Fig. 35.--Suit by Lucio Piccinino, of Milan.]

SUIT AT NAWORTH CASTLE.

This suit is very rich and handsome, being freely engraved and

inlaid with gold--the gilding has, however, greatly worn off. The

ornamentation is somewhat rude, both in character and in execution, and

vastly inferior to either Italian or German work. The cuirass is

ornamented with a “George” badge on either side, indicating a knight

of the Garter, the execution of which is good. The genouillières are

attachable to the jambs by reversible catches, which pass through the

plate--they are the same catches as shown on the Osuna harness. There

is a tapul and garde-de-reine. The sollerets are square-toed, but very

narrow, not “bear-paw” like the “Maximilian.” The Earl of Carlisle

suggests the possibility that the harness may have belonged to the last

Lord Dacre, who died in 1566. This would, of course, point to an even

earlier date of make, but this seems incompatible with the general

aspect of the suit, which would appear to date from late in the reign

of Queen Elizabeth.

[Illustration: Fig. 36.--Repoussé Armour at Berlin.]

SUIT FROM THE COLLECTION OF PRINCE CARL OF PRUSSIA, NOW IN THE ZEUGHAUS

AT BERLIN.

This beautiful suit (Fig. 36), decorated in repoussé work in very

high relief, dates about the close of the sixteenth century, and the

ornamentation is instructive as well as artistic in the classical

battle-scene and details it depicts. The mitten gauntlet, with expanded

cuff, is very fine. The ridge over the knuckles is bold, and smaller

ridges continue to the finger tips.

THE OSUNA SUIT.

This is highly characteristic of the period it represents. The armour

is freely ornamented in repoussé or hammered work, and bears traces

of gilding. The suit was probably made in Italy, is very handsome,

and has seen much service. Being well authenticated, it has a special

interest. The suit belonged to Don Pedro Fellez de Giron, Duke of

Osuna and Infantado, Knight of the Black Eagle Order, etc., Viceroy

of Sicily about 1600, and later of Naples (about 1610). It was saved

from the fire at the old De Giron family seat in Belgium--the castle of

Beauraing, in the Province of Namur, not far from Dinant. The place was

burnt on the 3rd December, 1890.

DETAILS.

The whole suit (Fig. 37) is freely ornamented with arabesqued

foliations on a ground of fine vertical lines, banded in the Italian

style, interspersed with human heads, some of them grotesque, and

enclosed in medallions; and a series of armed figures, which would

richly repay a close examination. The helmet is a remarkable piece of

workmanship, and forged in a single piece; it weighs seven pounds. It

is an Italian casque of a most graceful and classic form. The repoussé

ornamentation on it is banded like the rest of the armour. The comb

is very high, and fluted all over the crest. There are remains of a

leather lining inside, fastened all round with gilded rivets. The

plume socket has two holes for adjustment, and there is another hole

in the comb for firmly securing the plume of feathers. The oreillettes

are provided with six holes on one side, and three on the other, for

hearing; and have each a round projecting eye, with fluted edges,

presumably an attachment for keeping the flaps up when not required,

or for fastening them across the throat. Both peaks are of overlapping

plates, with fluted borders. A very similar helmet, formerly in the

possession of Baron de Cosson, was ascribed by him to 1530–40. He

writes concerning it: “Many rich suits had one of these light open

helmets as well as a close helmet,” a fact proved by existing examples

at Madrid and elsewhere. We have already quoted an example in the

description of the suit of the Prince-Bishop of Salzburg, which has

a close helmet and a cabasset. The cuirass has a tapul, with

a projection near the bottom; this particular form was termed the

“peascod” in England. Both these pieces are bordered round the chest

and arms with a thick ridged piping. This piping was a contrivance to

stop a stroke from penetrating beneath the gorget. The tassets consist

of six lames, and are attached to the tace, which is in one piece, by

straps and buckles; all the rivets have gilded heads. The lower body

is protected by chain-mail. The left pauldron is the larger; both have

free laminations at the shoulder and upper arm. The coudières are

cup-formed over the elbows, and go round the arm. The gauntlets have

highly-rounded articulations for the fingers, with a separate thumb

plate. Both leg armour and sollerets are freely decorated in “banded”

ornamentations, with enclosed medallions, besides gilded rivets. A

sharp ridge runs down the front of the cuisse, genouillière, and

jamb. The genouillières are fastened round the back of the knee by

straps, and on to the jambs by a reversible turning pin on the latter,

passing through a hole in the former; and a turn of the screw secures

the attachment. Jambs, which are hinged, and sollerets are riveted

together, with lames above the ankle. The sollerets are “bear-paw.” All

these pieces are held together by gilded rivets. The suit was probably

made in the third quarter of the sixteenth century, or possibly as late

as the fourth quarter, though the shape of the sollerets would point to

a somewhat earlier period. Fig. 38 exhibits some details of the suit.

The stand on which the armour is hung is very old, and has probably

stood in the armoury of the castle of Beauraing for centuries; and the

face is very possibly a portrait of the Duke d’Osuna.

[Illustration: Fig. 37.--Suit of the Duc D’Osuna.]

[Illustration: Fig. 38.--Some details of the Osuna Suit.]

The beautifully embossed harness at Vienna, made for the Archduke

Ferdinand of Tyrol, about 1560, is the work of the Milanese master,

Battista Serabaglio. The casque is of classic form.

An embossed suit (Fig. 39), made by Anton Peffenhauser of Augsburg,

about 1570, for Don Sebastian of Portugal, is in the Armeria Real at

Madrid (Catálogo, page 94, No. A290); it is a notable example of the

time.

The collection in the hall set apart for enriched armour at Dresden

is especially valuable in exhibiting a remarkable series of fourteen

historic suits, blazing with ornamentation, and covering a period

of from something like the second quarter of the sixteenth to the

end of the first quarter in the seventeenth century. All these suits

are royal specimens of their school. The earliest is the harness of

Kurfürst Moritz of Saxony, 1521–53. The rider sits on horseback in

his field-harness, which is freely decorated with gold arabesques

on blue bands. The Kurfürst bore this armour on his entry into the

conquered city of Magdeburg in 1551. The bards are enriched in the

same manner as the armour borne by the Kurfürst. Another suit is that

of Duke (afterwards Kurfürst) August, 1526–86. It is fluted and richly

ornamented, bearing the Saxon arms inlaid. This harness was the gift

of the Archduke Ferdinand of Tyrol, and is probably the work of Jörg

Seusenhofer of Innsbruck. The figure holds a field-marshal’s baton in

the right hand. The legend, “Semper suave,” is inlaid on the bards.

Another suit of this Duke’s is a specimen of blackened harness with

white bands; a description much worn in campaigning in the second half

of the sixteenth century and later, because it was easily kept clean

in all weathers. It is a fine piece of work, and is inscribed with the

date 1546. The Duke bore this suit at the battle of Mühlberg in the

year following. A harness of Duke Johann Wilhelm of Weimar, bearing

the mark of Kunz Lochner of Nuremberg, date about 1560. A suit for man

and horse of Kurfürst Christian I., 1560–91. Tournament reinforcing

pieces stand by it--a tilting helm, grand-guard, garde-de-bras, etc.

The harness for man and horse of Kurfürst Christian II. (1583–1611),

a masterpiece of the armour-smith’s art, is by Heinrich Knopf of

Nuremberg, and cost £1,750. The ornamentation consists of arabesques

on a gold ground with enclosed medallions. A rapier by Andreis Munsten

of Solingen is with the suit. There is a second suit that belonged to

this prince--the ground is a dull green, with chasings. This harness,

according to an inventory of 1606, was bought at Augsburg in 1602--it

bears no mark. The latest harness of the series is that of Kurfürst

Johann Georg I., and the date is 1622; it is the work of Hieronymus

Ringler of Augsburg, and though very richly decorated exhibits

unmistakable signs of the decline of art.

[Illustration: Fig. 39.--Suit by Anton Peffenhauser, at Madrid.]

This remarkable series is as valuable from an educational as from

an æsthetic point of view; still, though the differences in points

of detail, over the various periods, stand before you, it must not

be forgotten that fashions were far from being contemporaneous over

northern and central Europe, and that new departures of fashion

in armour, as in dress, took long to travel and get generally

assimilated--far longer in the sixteenth century than to-day,--hence

one or two salient features cannot always date a suit, even within a

couple of decades. There is a fine series of plain gilded suits at

Dresden, which were worn with boots.

To give a completer series of examples of late sixteenth and early

seventeenth century forms and fashions would make this work far too

voluminous. Examples of pikemen’s later suits, etc., would make the

chain more complete, but the varieties are so very numerous that it

would be impossible reasonably to cover them without largely extending

the size and scope of the work. Practically the illustrations close

with the end of the sixteenth century; after which the general use

of armour, from causes already referred to, rapidly declined. The

interest in the later forms is comparatively far less to the student

or collector, whether looked at from an artistic or historic point of

view, than the grand period which has been imperfectly covered here.

_SECTION II._

THE WEAPONS AND ENGINES OF WAR.

The Defensive Armour and the Weapons and Engines of War of Mediæval Times, and of the "Renaissance." · 第 14 / 25 章