The attempt to reach South Australia and Adelaide by Mount Hopeless.
Mistake of selecting that Route.
Mr. Wills's Journals from the 23rd of April to the 29th of June, 1861.
Adventures with the Natives.
Discovery of Nardoo as a Substitute for Food.
Mr. Burke and King go in search of Natives as a last resource.
Mr. Wills left alone in the Desert.
The Last Entry in his Journal.
ON the morning of Thursday, the 23rd of April, 1861, Mr. Burke, my
son, and King, being refreshed and strengthened by the provisions
they found at Cooper's Creek, again resumed their journey
homewards. It was an unfortunate resolve of Burke's, to select the
route to the Adelaide district by Mount Hopeless, instead of
returning by the Darling. King says, "Mr. Wills and I were of
opinion that to follow Brahe was the best mode of proceeding; but
Mr. Burke had heard it stated positively at the meeting of the
Royal Society, that there were South Australian settlers within one
hundred miles of Cooper's Creek in the direction he proposed to
take;" and by this very questionable assertion, without evidence,
his mind was biassed. There was, in fact, nothing to recommend the
route by Mount Hopeless, while everything was in favour of that by
the Darling. Blanche Water, the nearest police-station on the
Adelaide line, was distant between four and five hundred miles. The
one road they knew nothing of, the other was familiar to them. The
camels, too, would have plucked up spirit on returning after the
others on the old track. It is true that Brahe's false statement of
the condition of his party held out no encouragement that they
might be able to overtake him; but there was a chance that a new
party might even then be coming up, or that the laggard Wright
would be on the advance at last, as proved to be the fact. A
Melbourne paper, commenting on these points, had the following
remarks, which were as just as they were doubly painful, being
delivered after the event:--
Wills and King it appears were desirous of following their track out
from Menindie, which would unquestionably have been the wiser
course; but Mr. Burke preferred striking for the South Australian
stations, some of which, he had been informed by the Royal
Committee of Exploration, were only one hundred and fifty miles
from Cooper's Creek. It was a most unfortunate and fatal matter for
Mr. Burke that these Royal people had anything whatever to do with
his movements.
He made two attempts to strike in the direction in which they had
assured him he would easily reach a settled district, and twice was
he driven back for want of water. It was a fatal mistake on his
part to follow the suggestion of these ready advisers. The
practical impressions of Wills or King were worth a world of
theoretical conjectures and philosophic presumption. But it seems
to have been decreed that Burke should have favoured the former
instead of the latter; the consequences of which were that himself
and poor Wills were to perish miserably.
. . .
Much as I approve of and admire my son's steady obedience to
his leader, I cannot but regret and wonder that in this particular
instance he was not more resolute in remonstrance. It bears out
what I said to Mr. Burke on taking leave of him: "If you ask his
advice, take it; but he will never offer it; and should he see you
going to destruction, he will follow you without a murmur."
The party, before they left Cooper's Creek, buried my son's
journals in the cache, with the subjoined note from Mr. Burke,
which were dug out and brought up by Brahe.
Depot 2, Cooper's Creek Camp 65.
The return party from Carpentaria, consisting of myself, Wills, and
King (Gray dead), arrived here last night and found that the depot
party had only started on the same day. We proceed on, to-morrow,
slowly down the creek towards Adelaide by Mount Hopeless, and shall
endeavour to follow Gregory's track; but we are very weak. The two
camels are done up, and we shall not be able to travel faster than
four or five miles a day. Gray died on the road, from exhaustion
and fatigue. We have all suffered much from hunger. The provisions
left here will, I think, restore our strength. We have discovered a
practicable route to Carpentaria, the chief position of which lies
in the 140 degrees of east longitude. There is some good country
between this and the Stony Desert. From thence to the tropics the
land is dry and stony. Between the Carpentaria a considerable
portion is rangy, but well watered and richly grassed. We reached
the shores of Carpentaria on the 11th of February, 1861. Greatly
disappointed at finding the party here gone.
(Signed) ROBERT O'HARA BURKE, Leader.
April 22, 1861.
P.S. The camels cannot travel, and we cannot walk, or we should
follow the other party. We shall move very slowly down the creek.
. . .
My son's journal is now written in a more complete and
consecutive form. He had no instruments for observation or mapping,
so that his time and mind were concentrated on the one employment.
APRIL, 1861.--JOURNAL OF TRIP FROM COOPER'S CREEK TOWARDS ADELAIDE.
The advance party of the V.E.E., consisting of Burke, Wills, and
King (Gray being dead), having returned from Carpentaria, on the
21st April, 1861, in an exhausted and weak state, and finding that
the depot party left at Cooper's Creek had started for the Darling
with their horses and camels fresh and in good condition, deemed it
useless to attempt to overtake them, having only two camels, both
done up, and being so weak themselves as to be unable to walk more
than four or five miles a day. Finding also that the provisions
left at the depot for them would scarcely take them to Menindie,
they started down Cooper's Creek for Adelaide, via Mount Hopeless,
on the morning of 23rd April, 1861, intending to follow as nearly
as possible, the route taken by Gregory. By so doing they hoped to
be able to recruit themselves and the camels whilst sauntering
slowly down the creek, and to have sufficient provisions left to
take them comfortably, or at least without risk, to some station in
South Australia.
Their equipment consists of the following articles:--Flour, 50
pounds; sugar, 60 pounds; rice, 20 pounds; oatmeal, 60 pounds;
jerked meat, 25 pounds; ginger, 2 pounds; salt, 1 pound.--[Then
follow some native words with their meanings.]
From Depot.
Tuesday, 23rd April, 1861.--Having collected together all the odds
and ends that seemed likely to be of use to us, in addition to
provisions left in the plant, we started at 9.15 A.M., keeping down
the southern bank of the creek; we only went about five miles, and
camped at 11.30 on a billibong, where the feed was pretty good. We
find the change of diet already making a great improvement in our
spirits and strength. The weather is delightful, days agreeably
warm, but the nights very chilly. The latter is more noticeable
from our deficiency in clothing, the depot party having taken all
the reserve things back with them to the Darling.--To Camp 1.
From Camp 1.
Wednesday, 24th April, 1861.--As we were about to start this
morning, some blacks came by, from whom we were fortunate enough to
get about twelve pounds of fish for a few pieces of straps and some
matches, etc. This is a great treat for us, as well as a valuable
addition to our rations. We started at 8.15 P.M., on our way down
the creek, the blacks going in the opposite direction, little
thinking that in a few miles they might be able to get lots of
pieces for nothing, better than those they had obtained from us.
--To Camp 2.
From Camp 2.
Thursday, 25th April, 1861.--Awoke at five o'clock after a most
refreshing night's rest--the sky was beautifully clear, and the air
rather chilly--the terrestrial radiation seems to have been
considerable, and a slight dew had fallen. We had scarcely finished
breakfast, when our friends the blacks, from whom we obtained the
fish, made their appearance with a few more, and seemed inclined to
go with us and keep up the supply. We gave them some sugar, with
which they were greatly pleased--they are by far the most
well-behaved blacks we have seen on Cooper's Creek. We did not get
away from the camp until 9.30 A.M., continuing our course down the
most southern branch of the creek which keeps a general south-west
course. We passed across the stony point which abuts on one of the
largest waterholes in the creek, and camped at 12.30 about a mile
below the most dangerous part of the rocky path. At this latter
place we had an accident that might have resulted badly for us: one
of the camels fell while crossing the worst part, but we
fortunately got him out with only a few cuts and bruises. To Camp
3.--The waterhole at this camp is a very fine one, being several
miles long, and on an average about--chains broad. The water-fowl
are numerous, but rather shy, not nearly so much so, however, as
those on the creeks between here and Carpentaria; and I am
convinced that the shyness of the latter, which was also remarked
by Sturt on his trip to Eyre's Creek, arises entirely from the
scarcity of animals, both human and otherwise, and not from any
peculiar mode of catching them that the blacks may have.
From Camp 3.
Friday, 26th April, 1861.--Last night was beautifully calm and
comparatively warm, although the sky was very clear. We loaded the
camels by moonlight this morning, and started at a quarter to six:
striking off to the south of the creek, we soon got on a native
path which leaves the creek just below the stony ground and takes a
course nearly west across a piece of open country, bounded on the
south by sand ridges and on the north by the scrub by ground which
flanks the bank of the creek at this part of its course. Leaving
the path on our right at a distance of three miles, we turned up a
small creek, which passes down between some sandhills, and finding
a nice patch of feed for the camels at a waterhole, we halted at 7.
15 for breakfast. We started again at 9.50 A.M., continuing our
westerly course along the path: we crossed to the south of the
watercourse above the water, and proceeded over the most splendid
salt-bush country that one could wish to see, bounded on the left
by sandhills, whilst to the right the peculiar-looking flat-topped
sandstone ranges form an extensive amphitheatre, through the far
side of the arena of which may be traced the dark line of creek
timber. At twelve o'clock we camped in the bed of the creek at
camp--, our last camp on the road down from the Gulf, having taken
four days to do what we then did in one. This comparative rest and
the change in diet have also worked wonders, however; the leg-tied
feeling is now entirely gone, and I believe that in less than a
week we shall be fit to undergo any fatigue whatever. The camels
are improving, and seem capable of doing all that we are likely to
require of them.--To Camp 4.
From Camp 4.
Saturday, 27th April, 1861.--First part of night clear, with a
light breeze from south. Temperature at midnight 10 degrees
(Reaumur). Towards morning there were a few cirrocumulus clouds
passing over north-east to south-west, but these disappeared before
daylight. At five A.M. the temperature was 7.5 degrees (Reaumur).
We started at six o'clock, and following the native path, which at
about a mile from our camp takes a southerly direction, we soon
came to the high sandy alluvial deposit which separates the creek
at this point from the stony rises. Here we struck off from the
path, keeping well to the south of the creek, in order that we
might mess in a branch of it that took a southerly direction. At 9.
20 we came in on the creek again where it runs due south, and
halted for breakfast at a fine waterhole with fine fresh feed for
the camels. Here we remained until noon, when we moved on again,
and camped at one o'clock on a general course, having been
throughout the morning south-west eight miles. The weather is most
agreeable and pleasant; nothing could be more favourable for us up
to the present time. The temperature in the shade at 10.30 A.M. was
17.5 degrees (Reaumur), with a light breeze from south and a few
small cirrocumulus clouds towards the north. I greatly feel the
want of more instruments, the only things I have left being my
watch, prism compass, pocket compass, and one thermometer
(Reaumur).--To Camp 5.
From Camp 5.
Sunday, 28th April, 1861.--Morning fine and calm, but rather
chilly. Started at 4.45 A.M., following down the bed of a creek in
a westerly direction by moonlight. Our stage was, however, very
short for about a mile--one of the camels (Landa) got bogged by the
side of a waterhole, and although we tried every means in our
power, we found it impossible to get him out. All the ground
beneath the surface was a bottomless quicksand, through which the
beast sank too rapidly for us to get bushes of timber fairly
beneath him; and being of a very sluggish stupid nature he could
never be got to make sufficiently strenuous efforts towards
extricating himself. In the evening, as a last chance, we let the
water in from the creek, so as to buoy him up and at the same time
soften the ground about his legs; but it was of no avail. The brute
lay quietly in it, as if he quite enjoyed his position.--To Camp 6.
Camp 6.
Monday, 29th April, 1861.--Finding Landa still in the hole, we made
a few attempts at extricating him, and then shot him, and after
breakfast commenced cutting off what flesh we could get at for
jerking.
Tuesday, 30th April, 1861.--Remained here to-day for the purpose of
drying the meat, for which process the weather is not very
favourable. [Meteorological note follows.]
From Camp 6.
Wednesday, 1st May, 1861.--Started at 8.40, having loaded our only
camel, Rajah, with the most necessary and useful articles, and
packed up a small swag each, of bedding and clothing for our own
shoulders. We kept on the right bank of the creek for about a mile,
and then crossed over at a native camp to the left, where we got on
a path running due west, the creek having turned to the north.
Following the path we crossed an open plain, and then some sand
ridges, whence we saw the creek straight ahead of us running nearly
south again: the path took us to the southernmost point of the bend
in a distance of about two and a-half miles from where we had
crossed the creek, thereby saving us from three to four miles, as
it cannot be less than six miles round by the creek.--To Camp 7.
From Camp 7.
Thursday, 2nd May, 1861.--Breakfasted by moonlight and started at
6.30. Following down the left bank of the creek in a westerly
direction, we came at a distance of six miles on a lot of natives
who were camped on the bed of a creek. They seemed to have just
breakfasted, and were most liberal in their presentations of fish
and cake. We could only return the compliment by some fishhooks and
sugar. About a mile further on we came to a separation of the
creek, where what looked like the main branch, turned towards the
south. This channel we followed, not however without some
misgivings as to its character, which were soon increased by the
small and unfavourable appearance that the creek assumed. On our
continuing along it a little further it began to improve and
widened out with fine waterholes of considerable depth. The banks
were very steep, and a belt of scrub lined it on either side. This
made it very inconvenient for travelling, especially as the bed of
the creek was full of water for a considerable distance. At eleven
A.M., we halted, until 1.30 P.M., and then moved on again taking a
south-south-westerly course for about two miles, when at the end of
a very long waterhole it breaks into billibongs, which continue
splitting into sandy channels until they are all lost in the earthy
soil of a box forest. Seeing little chance of water ahead, we
turned back to the end of the long waterhole and camped for the
night. On our way back, Rajah showed signs of being done up. He had
been trembling greatly all the morning. On this account his load
was further lightened to the amount of a few pounds by the doing
away with the sugar, ginger, tea, cocoa, and two or three tin
plates.--To Camp 8.
From Camp 8.
Friday, 3rd May, 1861.--Started at seven A.M., striking off in a
northerly direction for the main creek. At a mile and a-half came
to a branch which--[Left unfinished].--To Camp 9.
Junction.--From Camp 9.
Saturday, 4th May, 1861.--Night and morning very cold. Sky clear,
almost calm, occasionally a light breath of air from south. Rajah
appears to feel the cold very much. He was so stiff this morning as
to be scarcely able to get up with his load. Started to return down
the creek at 6.45, and halted for breakfast at 9 A.M., at the same
spot as we breakfasted at yesterday. Proceeding from there down the
creek we soon found a repetition of the features that were
exhibited by the creek examined on Thursday. At a mile and a-half
we came to the last waterhole, and below that the channel became
more sandy and shallow, and continued to send off billibongs to the
south and west, slightly changing its course each time until it
disappeared altogether in a north-westerly direction. Leaving King
with the camel, we went on a mile or two to see if we could find
water; and being unsuccessful we were obliged to return to where we
had breakfasted as being the best place for feed and water.--To
Camp 10.
Sunday, 5th May, 1861.--Started by myself, to reconnoitre the
country in a southerly direction, leaving Mr. Burke and King with
the camel at Camp 10. Travelled south-west by south for two hours,
following the course of the most southerly billibongs; found the
earthy soil becoming more loose and cracked up, and the box track
gradually disappearing. Changed course to west for a high sand
ridge, which I reached in one hour and a half, and continuing in
the same direction to one still higher, obtained from it a good
view of the surrounding country. To the north were the extensive
box forests bounding the creek on either side. To the east earthy
plains intersected by watercourses and lines of timber, and bounded
in the distance by sand ridges. To the south the projection of the
sand ridge partially intercepted the view; the rest was composed of
earthy plains, apparently clothed with chrysanthemums. To the
westward another but smaller plain was bounded also by high sand
ridges running nearly parallel with the one on which I was
standing. This dreary prospect offering no encouragement to
proceed, I returned to Camp 10 by a more direct and better route
than I had come, passing over some good salt-bush land which
borders on the billibongs to the westward.--[Here follow some
meteorological notes.]
From Camp 10 back to 9.
Monday, 6th May, 1861.--Moved up the creek again to Camp 9, at the
junction, to breakfast, and remained the day there. The present
state of things is not calculated to raise our spirits much; the
rations are rapidly diminishing; our clothing, especially the
boots, are all going to pieces, and we have not the materials for
repairing them properly; the camel is completely done up and can
scarcely get along, although he has the best of feed and is resting
half his time. I suppose this will end in our having to live like
the blacks for a few months.
From Camp 9.
Tuesday, 7th May, 1861.--Breakfasted at daylight; but when about to
start, found that the camel would not rise even without any load on
his back. After making every attempt to get him up, we were obliged
to leave him to himself.
Mr. Burke and I started down the creek to reconnoitre; at about
eleven miles we came to some blacks fishing; they gave us some
half-a-dozen fish each, for luncheon, and intimated that if we
would go to their camp we should have some more and some bread. I
tore in two a piece of macintosh stuff that I had, and Mr. Burke
gave one piece and I the other. We then went on to their camp about
three miles further. They had caught a considerable quantity of
fish, but most of them were small. I noticed three different kinds;
a small one that they call Cupi, from five to six inches long, and
not broader than an eel; the common one, with large coarse scales,
termed Peru; and a delicious fish, some of which run from a pound
to two pounds weight; the natives call them Cawilchi. On our
arrival at the camp they led us to a spot to camp on, and soon
afterwards brought a lot of fish, and a kind of bread which they
call nardoo. The lighting a fire with matches delights them, but
they do not care about having them. In the evening various members
of the tribe came down with lumps of nardoo and handfuls of fish,
until we were positively unable to eat any more. They also gave us
some stuff they call bedgery or pedgery; it has a highly
intoxicating effect when chewed even in small quantities. It
appears to be the dried stems and leaves of some shrub.
Wednesday, 8th May, 1861.--Left the blacks' camp at 7.30, Mr. Burke
returning to the junction, whilst I proceeded to trace down the
creek. This I found a shorter task than I had expected, for it soon
showed signs of running out, and at the same time kept considerably
to the north of west. There were several fine waterholes within
about four miles of the camp I had left, but not a drop all the way
beyond that, a distance of seven miles. Finding that the creek
turned greatly towards the north, I returned to the blacks'
encampment, and as I was about to pass they invited me to stay;--I
did so, and was even more hospitably entertained than before,
being, on this occasion, offered a share of a gunyah, and supplied
with plenty of fish and nardoo, as well as a couple of nice fat
rats--the latter found most delicious; they were baked in their
skins.
Last night was clear and calm, but unusually warm. We slept by a
fire just in front of the blacks' camp; they were very attentive in
bringing us firewood and keeping the fire up during the night.
Thursday, 9th May, 1861.--Parted from my friends, the blacks, at 7.
30, and started for camp 9.
From Camp 9.
Friday, 10th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King employed in jerking the
camel's flesh, whilst I went out to look for the nardoo seed for
making bread: in this I was unsuccessful, not being able to find a
single tree of it in the neighbourhood of the camp. I, however,
tried boiling the large kind of bean which the blacks call padlu;
they boil easily, and when shelled are very sweet, much resembling
in taste the French chestnut; they are to be found in large
quantities nearly everywhere.
Saturday, 11th May, 1861.--To-day Mr. Burke and King started down
the creek to the blacks' camp, determined to ascertain all
particulars about the nardoo. I have now my turn at the meat
jerking, and must devise some means for trapping the birds and
rats, which is a pleasant prospect after our dashing trip to
Carpentaria, having to hang about Cooper's Creek, living like the
blacks.
Sunday, 12th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King returned this morning,
having been unsuccessful in their search for the blacks, who it
seems have moved over to the other branch of the creek.
Decided on moving out on the main creek tomorrow, and then trying
to find the natives of the creek.
Monday, 13th May, 1861.--Shifted some of the things, and brought
them back again, Mr. Burke thinking it better for one to remain
here with them for a few days, so as to eat the remains of the
fresh meat, whilst the others went in search of the blacks and
nardoo.
Tuesday, 14th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King gone up the creek to
look for blacks with four days' provisions. Self employed in
preparing for a final start on their return.
This evening Mr. Burke and King returned, having been some
considerable distance up the creek and found no blacks. It is now
settled that we plant the things, and all start together the day
after to-morrow.
The weather continues very fine; the nights calm, clear and cold,
and the days clear, with a breeze generally from south, but to-day
from east, for a change; this makes the first part of the day
rather cold. When clouds appear they invariably move from west to
east.
Wednesday, 15th, 1861.--Planting the things and preparing to leave
the creek for Mount Hopeless.
Thursday, 16th, 1861.--Having completed our planting, etc., started
up the creek for the second blacks' camp, a distance of about eight
miles: finding our loads rather too heavy we made a small plant
here of such articles as could best be spared.--[Here follow a few
meteorological notes.]
Nardoo, Friday, 17th May, 1861.--Started this morning on a blacks'
path, leaving the creek on our left, our intention being to keep a
south-easterly direction until we should cut some likely looking
creek, and then to follow it down. On approaching the foot of the
first sandhill, King caught sight in the flat of some nardoo seeds,
and we soon found that the flat was covered with them. This
discovery caused somewhat of a revolution in our feelings, for we
considered that with the knowledge of this plant we were in a
position to support ourselves, even if we were destined to remain
on the creek and wait for assistance from town. Crossing some sand
ridges, running north and south, we struck into a creek which runs
out of Cooper's Creek, and followed it down; at about five miles we
came to a large waterhole, beyond which the watercourse runs out on
extensive flats and earthy plains.
Calm night; sky cleared towards morning, and it became very cold. A
slight easterly breeze sprung up at sunrise but soon died away
again. The sky again became overcast and remained so throughout the
day. There was occasionally a light breeze from south, but during
the greater portion of the day it was quite calm. Fine halo around
the sun in the afternoon.
Camp 16.
Saturday, 18th May, 1861.--[No entry except the following
meteorological entry on an opposite page, which may probably refer
to this date.] Calm night; sky sometimes clear and sometimes
partially overcast with veil clouds.
Sunday, 19th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.]
Monday, 20th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.]
Tuesday, 21st May.--Creek.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.]
Wednesday, 22nd May, 1861.--Cooper's Creek.--[No entry beyond this
citation of date.]
Thursday, 23rd May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.]
Friday, 24th May, 1861.--Started with King to celebrate the Queen's
birthday by fetching from Nardoo Creek what is now to us the staff
of life; returned at a little after two P.M. with a fair supply,
but find the collecting of the seed a slower and more troublesome
process than could be desired. Whilst picking the seed, about
eleven A.M., both of us heard distinctly the noise of an explosion,
as if of a gun, at some considerable distance. We supposed it to
have been a shot fired by Mr. Burke, but on returning to the camp
found that he had not fired, nor had heard the noise. The sky was
partially overcast with high cumulostratus clouds, and a light
breeze blew from the east, but nothing to indicate a thunderstorm
in any direction.
Saturday, 25th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this.]
Sunday, 26th May.--[No entry beyond this.]
Monday, 27th May, 1861.--Started up the creek this morning for the
depot, in order to deposit journals and a record of the state of
affairs here. On reaching the sandhills below where Landa was
bogged, I passed some blacks on a flat collecting nardoo seed.
Never saw such an abundance of the seed before. The ground in some
parts was quite black with it. There were only two or three gins
and children, and they directed me on, as if to their camp, in the
direction I was before going; but I had not gone far over the first
sandhill when I was overtaken by about twenty blacks, bent on
taking me back to their camp, and promising any quantity of nardoo
and fish. On my going with them, one carried the shovel, and
another insisted on taking my swag in such a friendly manner that I
could not refuse them. They were greatly amused with the various
little things I had with me. In the evening they supplied me with
abundance of nardoo and fish, and one of the old men, Poko
Tinnamira, shared his gunyah with me. . .The night was very cold,
but by the help of several fires--[The entry suddenly stops here;
but in the margin of the opposite page is written the names of
several natives, and certain native words with their meanings in
English.]
Tuesday, 28th May, 1861:--Left the blacks' camp, and proceeded up
the creek; obtained some mussels near where Landa died, and halted
for breakfast. Still feel very unwell from the effects of
constipation of the bowels. After breakfast travelled on to our
third camp coming down.
Wednesday, 29th.--Started at seven A.M. and went on to the
duck-holes, where we breakfasted coming down. Halted there at 9.30
A.M. for a feed, and then moved on. At the stones saw a lot of
crows quarrelling about something near the water; found it to be a
large fish, of which they had eaten a considerable portion. As it
was quite fresh and good, I decided the quarrel by taking it with
me. . .It proved a most valuable addition to my otherwise scanty
supper of nardoo porridge. This evening I camped very comfortably
in a mia-mia, about eleven miles from the depot. The night was very
cold, although not entirely cloudless. A brisk easterly breeze
sprang up in the morning, and blew freshly all day. In the evening
the sky clouded in, and there were one or two slight showers, but
nothing to wet the ground.
Thursday, 30th May, 1861.--Reached the depot this morning at eleven
A.M.; no traces of any one except blacks having been here since we
left. Deposited some journals and a notice of our present
condition. Started back in the afternoon, and camped at the first
waterhole. Last night, being cloudy, was unusually warm and
pleasant.
[Footnote: The notice left in the cache ran as follows:--
Depot Camp, May 30th.
We have been unable to leave the creek. Both camels are dead,
and our provisions are exhausted. Mr. Burke and King are down the
lower part of the creek. I am about to return to them, when we
shall probably come up this way. We are trying to live the best way
we can, like the blacks, but find it hard work. Our clothes are
going to pieces fast. Send provisions and clothes as soon as
possible.
W.J. WILLS.
The depot party having left, contrary to instructions, has put us
in this fix. I have deposited some of my journals here for fear of
accident.
W.J.W.]
Friday, 31st May, 1861.--Decamped at 7.30 A.M., having first
breakfasted; passed between the sandhills at nine A.M., and reached
the blanket mia-mias at 10.40 A.M.; from there proceeded on to the
rocks, where I arrived at 1.30 P.M., having delayed about
half-an-hour on the road in gathering some portulac. It had been a
fine morning, but the sky now became overcast, and threatened to
set in for steady rain; and as I felt very weak and tired, I only
moved on about a mile further, and camped in a sheltered gully
under some bushes. Night clear and very cold; no wind; towards
morning, sky became slightly overcast with cirrostratus clouds.
Saturday, 1st June, 1861.--Started at 7.45 A.M.; passed the
duck-holes at ten A.M. and my second camp up, at two P.M., having
rested in the meantime about forty-five minutes. Thought to have
reached the blacks' camp, or at least where Landa was bogged, but
found myself altogether too weak and exhausted; in fact, had
extreme difficulty in getting across the numerous little gullies,
and was at last obliged to camp from sheer fatigue. Night
ultimately both clear and cloudy, with occasional showers.
Sunday, 2nd June, 1861.--Started at half-past six, thinking to
breakfast at the blacks' camp below Landa's grave. Found myself
very much fagged, and did not arrive at their camp until ten A.M.,
and then found myself disappointed as to a good breakfast, the camp
being deserted. Having rested awhile and eaten a few fish-bones, I
moved down the creek, hoping by a late march to be able to reach
our own camp; but I soon found, from my extreme weakness, that that
would be out of the question. A certain amount of good luck,
however, still stuck to me, for on going along by a large waterhole
I was so fortunate as to find a large fish, about a pound and a
half in weight, which was just being choked by another which it had
tried to swallow, but which had stuck in its throat. I soon had a
fire lit, and both of the fish cooked and eaten: the large one was
in good condition. Moving on again after my late breakfast, I
passed Camp 67 of the journey to Carpentaria, and camped for the
night under some polygonum bushes.
Monday, 3rd June, 1861.--Started at seven o'clock, and keeping on
the south bank of the creek was rather encouraged at about three
miles by the sound of numerous crows ahead; presently fancied I
could see smoke, and was shortly afterwards set at my ease by
hearing a cooey from Pitchery, who stood on the opposite bank, and
directed me round the lower end of the waterhole, continually
repeating his assurance of abundance of fish and bread. Having with
some considerable difficulty managed to ascend the sandy path that
led to the camp, I was conducted by the chief to a fire where a
large pile of fish were just being cooked in the most approved
style. These I imagined to be for the general consumption of the
half-dozen natives gathered around, but it turned out that they had
already had their breakfast. I was expected to dispose of this
lot--a task which, to my own astonishment, I soon accomplished,
keeping two or three blacks pretty steadily at work extracting the
bones for me. The fish being disposed of, next came a supply of
nardoo cake and water until I was so full as to be unable to eat
any more; when Pitchery, allowing me a short time to recover
myself, fetched a large bowl of the raw nardoo flour mixed to a
thin paste, a most insinuating article, and one that they appear to
esteem a great delicacy. I was then invited to stop the night
there, but this I declined, and proceeded on my way home.
Tuesday, 4th June, 1861.--Started for the blacks' camp intending to
test the practicability of living with them, and to see what I
could learn as to their ways and manners.
Wednesday, 5th June, 1861.--Remained with the blacks. Light rain
during the greater part of the night, and more or less throughout
the day in showers. Wind blowing in squalls from south.
Thursday, 6th June, 1861.--Returned to our own camp: found that Mr.
Burke and King had been well supplied with fish by the blacks. Made
preparation for shifting our camp nearer theirs on the morrow.
. . .
During my son's absence, which lasted for eleven days, in which
he travelled altogether above seventy miles, King mentions in his
narrative that Mr. Burke, whilst frying some fish set fire to the
mia-mia (a shelter made by the blacks with bushes of trees, so
thickly laid that it serves to exclude the sun and a great deal of
rain); thus destroying every remnant of clothing. King told me that
nothing was saved but a gun, although his narrative says a pistol
also; but Mr. Burke's pistol was burnt.
The incidents of the journal from the 27th of May to the 5th of
June, show how well my son had established himself in the good
graces of the natives. Had it been his fortune to have survived, we
should probably have had an interesting account of these simple
aborigines and their doings.
. . .
Friday, 7th June, 1861.--Started in the afternoon for the
blacks' camp with such things as we could take; found ourselves all
very weak in spite of the abundant supply of fish that we have
lately had. I, myself, could scarcely get along, although carrying
the lightest swag, only about thirty pounds. Found that the blacks
had decamped, so determined on proceeding to-morrow up to the next
camp, near the nardoo field.
Saturday, 8th June, 1861.--With the greatest fatigue and difficulty
we reached the nardoo camp. No blacks, greatly to our disappointment;
took possession of their best mia-mia and rested for the remainder
of the day.
Sunday, 9th June, 1861.--King and I proceeded to collect nardoo,
leaving Mr. Burke at home.
Monday, 10th June, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King collecting nardoo;
self at home too weak to go out; was fortunate enough to shoot a
crow.--[Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to
relate to another period.]
Tuesday, 11th June, 1861.--King out for nardoo; Mr. Burke up the
creek to look for the blacks.
Wednesday, 12th June, 1861.--King out collecting nardoo; Mr. Burke
and I at home pounding and cleaning. I still feel myself, if
anything, weaker in the legs, although the nardoo appears to be
more thoroughly digested.
Thursday, 13th June, 1861.--Last night the sky was pretty clear,
and the air rather cold, but nearly calm, a few cirrostratus hung
about the north-east horizon during the first part of the night.
Mr. Burke and King out for nardoo; self weaker than ever; scarcely
able to go to the waterhole for water. Towards afternoon,
cirrocumulus and cirrostratus began to appear moving northward.
Scarcely any wind all day.
Friday, 14th June, 1861.--Night alternately clear and cloudy;
cirrocumulus and cumulostratus moving northwards; no wind;
beautifully mild for the time of year; in the morning some heavy
clouds on the horizon. King out for nardoo; brought in a good
supply. Mr. Burke and I at home, pounding and cleaning seed. I feel
weaker than ever, and both Mr. B. and King are beginning to feel
very unsteady in the legs.
Saturday, 15th June, 1861.--Night clear, calm, and cold; morning
very fine, with a light breath of air from north-east. King out for
nardoo; brought in a fine supply. Mr. Burke and I pounding and
cleaning; he finds himself getting very weak, and I am not a bit
stronger.
I have determined on beginning to chew tobacco and eat less nardoo,
in hopes that it may induce some change in the system. I have never
yet recovered from the constipation, the effect of which continues
to be exceedingly painful.
Sunday, 16th June, 1861.--Wind shifted to north; clouds moving from
west to east; thunder audible two or three times to the southward:
sky becoming densely overcast, with an occasional shower about nine
A.M.
We finished up the remains of the camel Rajah yesterday, for
dinner; King was fortunate enough to shoot a crow this morning.
The rain kept all hands in, pounding and cleaning seed during the
morning. The weather cleared up towards the middle of the day, and
a brisk breeze sprang up in the south, lasting till near sunset,
but rather irregular in its force. Distant thunder was audible to
westward and southward frequently during the afternoon.
Monday, 17th June, 1861.--Night very boisterous and stormy;
northerly wind blowing in squalls, and heavy showers of rain, with
thunder in the north and west; heavy clouds moving rapidly from
north to south; gradually clearing up during the morning; the wind
continuing squally during the day from west and north-west.
King out in the afternoon for nardoo.
Tuesday, 18th June, 1861.--Exceedingly cold night; sky clear,
slight breeze, very chilly and changeable; very heavy dew. After
sunrise, cirrostratus clouds began to pass over from west to east,
gradually becoming more dense, and assuming the form of
cumulostratus. The sky cleared, and it became warmer towards noon.
Wednesday, 19th June, 1861.--Night calm; sky during first part
overcast with cirrocumulus clouds, most of which cleared away
towards morning, leaving the air much colder; but the sky remained
more or less hazy all night, and it was not nearly as cold as last
night.
About eight o'clock a strong southerly wind sprung up, which
enabled King to blow the dust out of our nardoo seed, but made me
too weak to render him any assistance.
Thursday, 20th June, 1861.--Night and morning very cold, sky clear.
I am completely reduced by the effects of the cold and starvation.
King gone out for nardoo; Mr. Burke at home pounding seed; he finds
himself getting very weak in the legs. King holds out by far the
best; the food seems to agree with him pretty well.
Finding the sun come out pretty warm towards noon, I took a
sponging all over; but it seemed to do little good beyond the
cleaning effects, for my weakness is so great that I could not do
it with proper expedition.
I cannot understand this nardoo at all--it certainly will not agree
with me in any form; we are now reduced to it alone, and we manage
to consume from four to five pounds per day between us; it appears
to be quite indigestible, and cannot possibly be sufficiently
nutritious to sustain life by itself.
Friday, 21st June, 1861.--Last night was cold and clear, winding up
with a strong wind from north-east in the morning. I feel much
weaker than ever and can scarcely crawl out of the mia-mia. Unless
relief comes in some form or other, I cannot possibly last more
than a fortnight.
It is a great consolation, at least, in this position of ours, to
know that we have done all we could, and that our deaths will
rather be the result of the mismanagement of others than of any
rash acts of our own. Had we come to grief elsewhere, we could only
have blamed ourselves; but here we are returned to Cooper's Creek,
where we had every reason to look for provisions and clothing; and
yet we have to die of starvation, in spite of the explicit
instructions given by Mr. Burke--"That the depot party should await
our return;" and the strong recommendation to the Committee "that
we should be followed up by a party from Menindie."
About noon a change of wind took place, and it blew almost as hard
from the west as it did previously from the north-east. A few
cirrocumulus continued to pass over towards east.
Saturday, 22nd June, 1861.--Night cloudy and warm; every appearance
of rain; thunder once or twice during the night; clouds moving in
an easterly direction; lower atmosphere perfectly calm. There were
a few drops of rain during the night, and in the morning, about
nine A.M., there was every prospect of more rain until towards
noon, when the sky cleared up for a time.
Mr. Burke and King out for nardoo; the former returned much
fatigued. I am so weak to-day as to be unable to get on my feet.
Sunday, 23rd June, 1861.--All hands at home. I am so weak as to be
incapable of crawling out of the mia-mia. King holds out well, but
Mr. Burke finds himself weaker every day.
Monday, 24th June, 1861.--A fearful night. At about an hour before
sunset, a southerly gale sprung up and continued throughout the
greater portion of the night; the cold was intense, and it seemed
as if one would be shrivelled up. Towards morning it fortunately
lulled a little, but a strong cold breeze continued till near
sunset, after which it became perfectly calm.
King went out for nardoo in spite of the wind, and came in with a
good load; but he himself terribly cut up. He says that he can no
longer keep up the work, and as he and Mr. Burke are both getting
rapidly weaker, we have but a slight chance of anything but
starvation, unless we can get hold of some blacks.
Tuesday, 25th June, 1861.--Night calm, clear and intensely cold,
especially towards morning. Near daybreak, King reported seeing a
moon in the east, with a haze of light stretching up from it; he
declared it to be quite as large as the moon, and not dim at the
edges. I am so weak that any attempt to get a sight of it was out
of the question; but I think it must have been Venus in the
Zodiacal Light that he saw, with a corona around her.
26th.--Mr. Burke and King remain at home cleaning and pounding
seed; they are both getting weaker every day; the cold plays the
deuce with us, from the small amount of clothing we have: my
wardrobe consists of a wide-awake, a merino shirt, a regatta shirt
without sleeves, the remains of a pair of flannel trousers, two
pairs of socks in rags, and a waistcoat, of which I have managed to
keep the pockets together. The others are no better off. Besides
these, we have between us, for bedding, two small camel pads, some
horse-hair, two or three little bits of rag, and pieces of
oil-cloth saved from the fire.
The day turned out nice and warm.
Wednesday, 27th June, 1861.--Calm night; sky overcast with hazy
cumulostratus clouds; an easterly breeze sprung up towards morning,
making the air much colder. After sunrise there were indications of
a clearing up of the sky, but it soon clouded in again, the upper
current continuing to move in an easterly direction, whilst a
breeze from the north and north-east blew pretty regularly
throughout the day. Mr. Burke and King are preparing to go up the
creek in search of the blacks; they will leave me some nardoo,
wood, and water, with which I must do the best I can until they
return. I THINK THIS IS ALMOST OUR ONLY CHANCE. I feel myself, if
anything, rather better, but I cannot say stronger: the nardoo is
beginning to agree better with me; but without some change I see
little chance for any of us. They have both shown great hesitation
and reluctance with regard to leaving me, and have repeatedly
desired my candid opinion in the matter. I could only repeat,
however, that I considered it our only chance, for I could not last
long on the nardoo, even if a supply could be kept up.
Thursday, 28th June, 1861.--Cloudy, calm, and comparatively warm
night, clouds almost stationary; in the morning a gentle breeze
from east. Sky partially cleared up during the day, making it
pleasantly warm and bright; it remained clear during the afternoon
and evening, offering every prospect of a clear cold night.
Friday, 29th June, 1861.--Clear cold night, slight breeze from the
east, day beautifully warm and pleasant. Mr. Burke suffers greatly
from the cold and is getting extremely weak; he and King start
to-morrow up the creek to look for the blacks; it is the only
chance we have of being saved from starvation. I am weaker than
ever, although I have a good appetite and relish the nardoo much;
but it seems to give us no nutriment, and the birds here are so shy
as not to be got at. Even if we got a good supply of fish, I doubt
whether we could do much work on them and the nardoo alone. Nothing
now but the greatest good luck can save any of us; and as for
myself I may live four or five days if the weather continues warm.
My pulse is at forty-eight, and very weak, and my legs and arms are
nearly skin and bone. I can only look out, like Mr. Micawber, 'for
SOMETHING TO TURN up;' starvation on nardoo is by no means very
unpleasant, but for the weakness one feels, and the utter inability
to move one's self; for as far as appetite is concerned, it gives
the greatest satisfaction. Certainly fat and sugar would be more to
one's taste; in fact those seem to me to be the great stand-by for
one in this extraordinary continent: not that I mean to depreciate
the farinaceous food; but the want of sugar and fat in all
substances obtainable here is so great that they become almost
valueless to us as articles of food, without the addition of
something else.
(Signed) W.J. WILLS.