The planters were not all of them rich by any means. Hardly one of

those in Virginia had possessions that would to-day rank him even among

moderately rich men. But they were scrupulously honorable men, they

were men of reasonable property, and their credit rested firmly upon

the fact that they were able to pay and the equally important fact

that they meant to pay. They lived lavishly, but the plantation itself

furnished most of the materials of the lavishness, so that there was no

extravagance in such living. For the rest they had a sufficient regard

for those who were to come after them to keep the total volume of the

debt upon the estate within such limits as the estate could easily

stand.

What I wish to emphasize here is that the methods of their monetary

transactions were such as to make of money a very infrequent subject

of consideration in their lives and conversations.

Economically it would have been better for them if things had been

otherwise, but socially, the utter absence of pecuniary flavor from

their intercourse, lent a peculiar charm to it, especially in the eyes

and mind of a youth brought up as I had been in an atmosphere positively

grimy with the soot of monetary considerations.

There was hardly one of those plantations whose utterly waste products

were not worth more in the markets near at hand than were the tobacco

and wheat which alone the planters sold. When I came into the practice

of law a few years later, and had charge of the affairs of a number of

estates, I brought this matter of waste to the attention of my clients,

with all the earnestness I could put into my pleading. I showed them

prices current to prove that if they chose to market their surplus

apples, potatoes, sweet potatoes, lambs, pigs, poultry, and dairy

products, all of which they gave away or suffered to go to waste, they

might discharge their hereditary debts at once and build up balances in

bank. They had sagacity enough to understand the facts, but not one of

them would ever consent to apply them practically. It would be "Yankee

farming," was the ready reply, and that was conclusive. It was not the

custom of the planters to sell any but staple products, and they were

planters, not farmers.

[Sidenote: The Charm of Leisureliness]

All these things helped, when I first came into relations with them, to

impress my young mind with the poise, the picturesqueness, the restful

leisureliness of the Virginian life, and the utter absence from it of

strenuousness, and still more of sordidness. For the first time in my

life I was living with people who thought of money only on those annual

or other occasions when they were settling their affairs and paying

their debts by giving notes for their sum; people who regarded time not

as something to be economized and diligently utilized for the sake of

its money value, but as a means of grace, if I may so speak without

irreverence; as an opportunity of enjoyment, for themselves and for

others; as a thing to be spent with the utmost lavishness in the doing

of things agreeable, in the reading of books that pleased, in the riding

of horses that put the rider upon his metal to match their tameless

spirit, in the cultivation of flowers, in the improvement of trees by

grafting and budding, and even in the idler pleasures of tossing grace

hoops, or hotly maintaining an indoor contest at battledore and

shuttlecock when it rained heavily. These and a score of other pastimes

seemed good in the eyes of the Virginian men and women. The men went

shooting or fox hunting or hare coursing, or fishing, each in its

season. The women embroidered and knitted nubias, and made fancy work,

and they walked long miles when not riding with escorts, and dug much in

the ground in propagation of the flowers they loved. They kept house,

too, with a vigilance born of the fact that in keeping house they were

also keeping plantation. For they must not only supervise the daily

dispensation of foodstuffs to all the negroes, but they must visit and

personally care for the sick, the aged, the infirm, and the infantile

among the black people. They must put up fruits and jams and pickles

and ketchups and jellies and shrubs and cordials enough to stock a

warehouse, in anticipation of the plantation needs. They must personally

cut out and direct the making of all the clothing to be worn by the

blacks on the plantation, for the reason that the colored maids,

seamstresses and dressmakers who were proud to fashion the gowns of

their young mistresses, simply would not "work for de field

hands,"--meaning the negroes of the plantation.

Yet with it all these women were never hurried, never scant of time in

which to do anything that might give pleasure to another. I never knew

one of them to plead preoccupation as a reason for not going riding or

walking, or rendering some music, or joining in a game, or doing

anything else that others wanted her to do.

The reason for all this was simple enough. The young women who kept

house--and it was usually the young women who did so--were up and at

it before the dawn. By the time that the eight-thirty or nine o'clock

breakfast was served, all their necessary work was done for the day;

often it was done in time to let them take a ride before breakfast

if the young man suggesting it happened to be an agreeable fellow.

After all was done upon which that day's conduct of the house and the

plantation depended, the gentlewomen concerned adopted the views of

their masculine mentors and exemplars. They accepted to-morrow as a good

enough stalking horse for to-day, and, having laid out their work well

in advance, they exacted of their servitors that the morrow's morning

should begin with a demonstration of to-day's work well done.

So they, too, had leisure, just as the meal hours had. I had been

brought up on five or six o'clock breakfasts, eleven-thirty or twelve

o'clock dinners, and early suppers. Here the breakfast hour was eight

thirty at the earliest and nine usually; "snack" was served about one to

those who chose to come to it, dinner at three or four, with no hurry

about it, and supper came at nine--the hour at which most people in the

West habitually went to bed.

The thing suited me, personally, for I had great ambitions as a student

and habitually dug at my mathematics, Latin, and Greek until two in the

morning. I was always up by daylight, and after a plunge into the cold

water provided for me in a molasses barrel out under the eaves, I

usually took a ride in company with the most agreeable young woman who

happened to be staying in the house at the time.

Sometimes I had two to escort, but that was rare. Usually there was

another young man in the house, and usually, under such circumstances, I

saw to it that he did not lie long abed. And even when there was no such

recourse, the "other girl" was apt to conjure up some excuse for not

wishing to ride that morning.

XXIII

[Sidenote: The Courtesy of the Virginians]

Indeed, one of the things that most deeply impressed me among the

Virginians was the delicacy and alert thoughtfulness of their courtesy.

The people of the West were not ill-mannered boors by any means, but

gentle, kindly folk. But they were not versed in those little momentary

courtesies of life which create a roseate atmosphere of active good

will. In all that pertained to courtesy in the larger and more

formal affairs of social life, the people of the West were even more

scrupulously attentive to the requirements of good social usage than

these easy-going Virginians were, with their well-defined social status

and their habit of taking themselves and each other for granted. But in

the little things of life, in their alertness to say the right word or

do the trifling thing that might give pleasure, and their still greater

alertness to avoid the word or act that might offend or incommode, the

Virginians presented to my mind a new and altogether pleasing example

of courtesy.

In later years I have found something like this agreeably impressed upon

me when I go for a time from New York to Boston. Courtesy could not

be finer or more considerate among people of gentle breeding who know

each other than it is in New York. But in their considerate treatment of

strangers, casually encountered in public places, the Boston people give

a finer, gentler, more delicate flavor to their courtesy, and it is a

delightful thing to encounter.

In Virginia this quality of courtesy was especially marked in the

intercourse of men and women with each other. The attitude of both was

distinctly chivalrous. To the woman--be she a child of two, a maiden

of twenty, or a gentlewoman so well advanced in years that her age was

unmentionable--the man assumed an attitude of gentle consideration, of

deference due to sex, of willingness to render any service at any cost,

and of a gently protective guardianship that stopped at nothing in the

discharge of its duty. To the man, be he old or young, the woman yielded

that glad obedience that she deemed due to her protector and champion.

I had never seen anything like this before. In the West I had gone to

school with all the young women I knew. I had competed with them upon

brutally equal terms, in examinations and in struggles for class honors,

and the like. They and we boys had been perfectly good friends and

comrades, of course, and we liked each other in that half-masculine way.

But the association was destructive of romance, of fineness, of delicate

attractiveness. There was no glamor left in the relations of young men

and young women, no sentiment except such as might exist among young

men themselves. The girls were only boys of another sort. Our attitude

toward them was comradely but not chivalric. It was impossible to feel

the roseate glow of romance in association with a young woman who had

studied in the same classes with one, who had stood as a challenge in

the matter of examination marks, and who met one at any hour of the day

on equal terms, with a cheery "good-morning" or "good-evening" that had

no more of sentiment in it than the clatter of a cotton mill.

[Sidenote: Sex and Education]

In my judgment, that is the conclusive objection to co-education,

except perhaps among the youngest children. It robs the relations of

the sexes of sentiment, of softness, of delicacy. It makes of girls an

inferior sort of boys, and of boys an inferior sort of girls. It cannot

completely negative sex, but it can and does sufficiently negative it

to rob life of one of its tenderest charms.

In Virginia for the first time I encountered something different.

There the boys were sent to old field schools where in rough and tumble

fashion, they learned Latin and robust manliness, Greek and a certain

graciousness of demeanor toward others, the absence of which would have

involved them in numberless fights on the playgrounds. The girls were

tenderly dame-nurtured at home, with a gentlewoman for governess, with

tutors to supplement the instruction of the governess, and with a year

or two, perhaps, for finishing, at Le Febre's or Dr. Hoge's, or some

other good school for young women.

Both the young men and the young women read voluminously--the young men

in part, perhaps, to equip themselves for conversational intercourse

with the young women. They both read polite literature, but they read

history also with a diligence that equipped them with independent

convictions of their own, with regard to such matters as the conduct of

Charlotte Corday, the characters of Mirabeau, Danton, and Robespierre,

the ungentlemanly treatment given by John Knox to Mary, Queen of Scots,

and all that sort of thing. Indeed, among the Virginia women, young and

old, the romantic episodes of history, ancient, mediaeval, and modern,

completely took the place, as subjects of conversation, of those gossipy

personalities that make up the staple of conversation among women

generally.

Let me not be misunderstood. These women did not assume to be "learned

ladies." It was only that they knew their history and loved it and were

fond of talking about it, quite as some other women are fond of talking

about the interesting scandal in the domestic relations of the reigning

matinee hero.

The intercourse between men and women thus educated was always easy,

gracious, and friendly, but it was always deferential, chivalric, and

imbued with that recognition of sex which, without loss of dignity on

either side, holds man to be the generously willing protector, and woman

the proudly loyal recipient of a protection to which her sex entitles

her, and in return for which she gladly yields a submission that has

nothing of surrender in it.

There was a fascination to me in all this, that I find it impossible to

describe and exceedingly difficult even to suggest.

I may add that I think the young women of that time in Virginia were

altogether the best educated young women I have ever encountered in any

time or country. And, best of all, they were thoroughly,

uncompromisingly feminine.

Of the men I need only say that they were masculine, and fit mates

for such women. I do not at all think they were personally superior

to men of other parts of the country in those things that pertain to

character and conduct, but at least they had the advantage of living

in a community where public opinion was all-dominant, and where that

resistless force insisted upon truth, integrity, and personal courage

as qualities that every man must possess if he expected to live in that

community at all. It was _noblesse oblige_, and it inexorably controlled

the conduct of all men who hoped for recognition as gentlemen.

The sentiment took quixotic forms at times, perhaps, but no jesting over

these manifestations can obscure the fact that it compelled men to good

behavior in every relation of life and made life sweeter, wholesomer,

and more fruitful of good than it otherwise would have been.

[Sidenote: The Voices of Virginia Women]

I must add a word with respect to that most fascinating of all things,

the Virginia girl's voice. This was music of so entrancing a sort that

I have known young men from other parts of the country to fall in love

with a voice before they had seen its possessor and to remain in love

with the owner of it in spite of her distinct lack of beauty when

revealed in person.

Those girls all dropped the "g"s at the end of their participles; they

habitually used double negatives, and, quite defiantly of dictionaries,

used Virginian locutions not sanctioned by authority. If challenged on

the subject their reply would have been that which John Esten Cooke gave

to an editor who wanted to strike a phrase out of one of his Virginia

romances, on the ground that it was not good English. "It's good

Virginian," he answered, "and for my purpose that is more important."

But all such defects of speech--due not to ignorance but to a charming

wilfulness--were forgotten in the music of the voices that gave them

utterance.

There are no such voices now, even in Virginia, I regret to say.

Not of their own fault, but because of contact with strangely altered

conditions, the altogether charming Virginia girls I sometimes meet

nowadays, have voices and intonations not unlike those of women in other

parts of the country, except that they preserve enough of the old lack

of emphasis upon the stronger syllables to render their speech often

difficult to understand. There is compensation for that in the gentle,

laughing readiness with which they repeat utterances not understood on

their first hearing.

XXIV

It was during the roseate years of the old Virginia life not long before

the war that I had my first and only serious experience of what is

variously and loosely called the "occult" and the "supernatural."

It is only in answer to solicitation that I tell the story here as it

has been only in response to like solicitation that I have orally told

it before.

In order that I may not be misunderstood, in order that I may not be

unjustly suspected of a credulity that does not belong to me, I wish to

say at the outset that I am by nature and by lifelong habit of mind a

skeptic. I believe in the natural order, in cause and effect, in the

material basis of psychological phenomena. I have no patience with the

mystical or the mysterious. I do not believe in the miraculous, the

supernatural, the occult--call it what you will.

And yet the experience I am about to relate is literally true, and the

story of it a slavishly faithful record of facts. I make no attempt to

reconcile those facts with my beliefs or unbeliefs. I venture upon no

effort at explanation. I have set forth above my intellectual attitude

toward all such matters; I shall set forth the facts of this experience

with equal candor. If the reader finds the facts irreconcilable with my

intellectual convictions, I must leave him to judge as he may between

the two, without aid of mine. The facts are these:

I was one of a house party, staying at one of the most hospitable

of Virginia mansions. I was by courtesy of Virginia clannishness

"cousin" to the mistress of the house, and when no house party was in

entertainment I was an intimate there, accustomed to go and come at

will and to reckon myself a member of the family by brevet.

[Sidenote: The Story of the West Wing]

At the time now considered, the house was unusually full, when a letter

came announcing the immediate coming of still other guests. In my close

intimacy with the mistress of the plantation I became aware of her

perplexity. She didn't know where and how to bestow the presently coming

guests. I suggested that I and some others should take ourselves away, a

suggestion which her hospitable soul rejected, the more particularly in

my case, perhaps, because I was actively planning certain entertainments

in which she was deeply interested. Suddenly it occurred to me that

during my long intimacy in the house I had never known anybody to occupy

the room or rooms which constituted the second story of the west wing of

the building. I asked why not bring that part of the spacious mansion

into use in this emergency, thinking that its idleness during all the

period of my intimacy there had been due only to the lack of need in a

house so large.

"Cousin Mary," with a startled look of inquiry upon her face, glanced

at her husband, who sat with us alone on a piazza.

"You may as well tell him the facts," he said in reply to the look.

"He won't talk."

Then she told me the history of the room, explaining that she objected

to any talk about it because she dreaded the suspicion of superstition.

Briefly the story was that several generations earlier, an old man

almost blind, had died there; that during his last illness he had had

his lawyer prepare his will there; that he was too feeble, when the

lawyer finished, even to sign the document; that he placed it under his

pillow; that during the night his daughter abstracted and copied it,

changing only one clause in such fashion as to defeat the long cherished

purpose of the dying man; that she placed her new draft under the pillow

where the old one had been and that in the morning the nearly blind old

man executed that instead of the other.

"Now I'm not superstitious, you know," said Cousin Mary very earnestly,

"but it is a fact that from that day to this there has been something

the matter with that room. During the time of my great uncle, who

brought me up, you know, and from whom I inherited the plantation, many

persons tried to sleep in it but none ever stayed there more than an

hour or two. They always fled in terror from the chamber, until at last

my uncle forbade any further attempt to occupy the room lest this should

come to be called a haunted house. Since I became mistress here three

persons have tried the thing, all of them with the same result."

"It's stuff and nonsense," I interposed, "but what yarns did they tell?"

"They one and all related the same singular experience," she answered,

"though neither of them knew what the experience of the others had

been."

"What was it?" I asked with resolute incredulity.

"Why, each of them went to the room in full confidence that nothing

would happen. Each went to bed and to sleep. After a while he waked to

find the whole room pervaded by a dim, yellowish gray or grayish yellow

light. Some of them used one combination of words and some the other,

but all agreed that the light had no apparent source, that it was

all-pervasive, that it was very dim at first, but that it steadily

increased until they fled in panic from its nameless terror. For ten

years we permitted no repetition of the experiment, but a year ago my

brother--he's an army officer, you know--insisted upon sleeping in the

room. He remained there longer than anybody else ever had done, but

between two and three o'clock in the morning he came down the stairs

with barely enough strength to cling to the balustrades, and in such

an ague fit as I never saw any one else endure in all my life. He had

served in the Florida swamps and was subject to agues, but for several

months before that he had been free from them. I suppose the terror

attacked his weakest point and brought the chills on again."

[Sidenote: A Challenge to the Ghosts]

"Did he have the same experience the rest had had?" I asked.

"Yes, except that he had stayed longer than any of them and suffered

more."

"Cousin Mary," I said, "I am going to sleep in that room to-night, with

your permission."

"You can't have it," she answered. "I've seen too much of the terror to

permit a further trifling with it."

"Then I'll sleep there without your permission," I answered. "I'll break

in if necessary, and I'll prove by a demonstration that nobody can

question, what nonsense all these imaginings have been."

Cousin Mary was determined, but so was I, and at last she consented

to let me make the attempt. She and I decided to keep the matter to

ourselves, but of course it leaked out and spread among all the guests

in the house. I suppose the negro servants who were sent to make up the

bed and supply bath water told. At any rate my coming adventure was the

sole topic of conversation at the supper table that night.

I seized upon the occasion to give a warning.

"I have borrowed a six-shooter from our host," I announced, "and if I

see anything to shoot at to-night I shall shoot without challenging. So

I strongly advise you fellows not to attempt any practical jokes."

The response convinced me that nothing of the kind was contemplated, but

to make sure, our host, who perhaps feared tragedy, exacted and secured

from each member of the company, old and young, male and female, a pledge

of honor that there should be no interference with my experiment, no

trespass upon my privacy.

"With that pledge secured," I said, perhaps a trifle boastfully, "I

shall stay in that room all night no matter what efforts the spooks may

make to drive me out."

It was about midnight, or nearly that, when I entered the room. It was

raining heavily without, and the wind was rattling the stout shutters of

the eight great windows of the room.

I went to each of those windows and minutely examined it. They were

hung with heavy curtains of deep red, I remember, for I observed every

detail. Four of them were in the north and four in the south wall of the

wing. The eastern wall of the room was pierced only by the broad doorway

which opened at the head of the great stairs. The door was stoutly built

of oak, and provided with a heavy lock of iron with brass knobs.

The western side of the room held a great open fireplace, from which a

paneled oaken wainscot extended entirely across the room and up to the

ceiling. Behind the wainscot on either side was a spacious closet which

I carefully explored with two lighted bedroom candles to show me that

the closets were entirely empty.

Having completed my explorations I disrobed, double-locked the door, and

went to bed, first placing the six-shooter handily under my pillow. I

do not think I was excited even in the smallest degree. My pulses were

calm, my imagination no more active than a young man's must be, and my

brain distinctly sleepy. The great, four-poster bed was inexpressibly

comfortable, and the splash and patter of the rain as it beat upon

the window blinds was as soothing as a lullaby. I forgot all about the

experiment in which I was engaged, all about ghosts and their ways,

and went to sleep.

[Sidenote: The Yellow-Gray Light]

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