CHAPTER VIII.

STANLEY MEETS LIVINGSTONE.

Stanley's excitement at this supreme moment of his life can never be

described or even imagined. When he started from Zanzibar, he knew he

had thrown the dice which were to fix his fate. Successful, and his fame

was secure, while failure meant death; and all the chances were against

him. How much he had taken upon himself no one but he knew; into what

gloomy gulfs he had looked before he started, he alone was conscious. Of

the risks he ran, of the narrow escapes he had made, of the toils and

sufferings he had endured, he alone could form an estimate. With the

accumulation of difficulties and the increasing darkness of his

prospects, the one great object of his mission had increased in

importance, till great though it was, it became unnaturally magnified so

that, at last, it filled all his vision, and became the one, the great,

the only object in life worth pursuing. For it he had risked so much,

toiled so long and suffered so terribly, that the whole world, with all

its interests, was secondary to it. Hope had given way to disappointment

and disappointment yielded to despair so often, that his strong nature

had got keyed up to a dangerous pitch. But now the reward was near.

Balboa, when alone he ascended the summit that was to give him a sight

of the great Pacific Ocean, was not more intensely excited than was

Stanley when he labored up the steep mountain that should give him a

view of the Tanganika.

The joy, the exultation of that moment, outbalanced a life of common

happiness. It was a feeling that lifts the soul into a region where our

common human nature never goes, and it becomes a memory that influences

and shapes the character forever. Such a moment of ecstasy--of perfect

satisfaction--of exultant, triumphant feeling that asks nothing

better--that brings perfect rest with the highest exaltation, can happen

to any man but once in a life-time. To attempt to give any description

of this culmination of all his effort, and longing, and ambition, except

in his own words, would be not only an act of injustice to him, but to

the reader.

The descent to Ujiji and the interview with Livingstone is full of

dramatic interest and the description of it should not be made by a

third party, for to attempt to improve on it would be presumption and

would end only in failure. We, therefore, give it in Mr. Stanley's own

words, that glow with vivid life from beginning to end, and this shall

be his chapter:

"We are descending the western slope of the mountain, with the valley of

the Linche before us. Something like an hour before noon we have gained

the thick matite brake, which grows on both banks of the river; we wade

through the clear stream, arrive on the other side, emerge out of the

brake, and the gardens of the Wajiji are around us--a perfect marvel of

vegetable wealth. Details escape my hasty and partial observation. I am

almost overpowered with my own emotion. I notice the graceful palms,

neat plats, green with vegetable plants, and small villages, surrounded

with frail fences of the matite cane.

"We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming might reach the people

of Bunder Ujiji before we come in sight and are ready for them. We halt

at a little brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked ridge, the very

last of the myriads we have crossed. This alone prevents us from seeing

the lake in all its vastness. We arrive at the summit, travel across and

arrive at its western rim, and--pause, reader--the port of Ujiji is

below us, embowered in the palms, only five hundred yards from us. At

this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we have

marched, of the hundreds of hills we have ascended and descended, of the

many forests we have traversed, of the jungles and thickets that annoyed

us, of the fervid salt plains that blistered our feet, of the hot suns

that scorched us, nor the dangers and difficulties now happily

surmounted. At last the sublime hour has arrived! our dreams, our

hopes, our anticipations are about to be realized. Our hearts and our

feelings are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to make

out in which hut or house lives the white man, with the gray beard, we

heard about on the Malagarazi.

"'Unfurl the flags and load the guns.'

"'Ay, Wallah, ay, Wallah, bana!' responded the men, eagerly.

"'One--two--three--fire.'

"A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a battery of

artillery; we shall note its effect, presently, on the peaceful-looking

village below.

"'Now, Kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the

Zanzibar flag bring up the rear. And you men keep close together, and

keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the white man's

house. You have said to me often that you could smell the fish of the

Tanganika. I can smell the fish of the Tanganika now. There are fish,

and beer, and a long rest awaiting for you. MARCH!'

"Before we had gone one hundred yards our repeated volleys had the

desired effect. We had awakened Ujiji to the fact that a caravan was

coming, and the people were witnessed running up in hundreds to meet us.

The mere sight of the flags informed every one immediately that we were

a caravan, but the American flag, borne aloft by the gigantic Asmani,

whose face was one broad smile on this day, rather staggered them at

first. However, many of the people who now approached us remembered the

flag. They had seen it float above the American consulate, and from the

mast-heads of many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and they were soon

heard welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of 'Bindera Kisungu!'--a

white man's flag! 'Bindera Mericani!'--the American flag! These cries

resounded on all sides.

"Then we were surrounded by them--by Wajiji, Wanyamzi, Wangwana,

Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema and Arabs, and were almost deafened with

the shout of 'Yambo, yambo, bona! Yambo bona, Yambo bona, Yambo bona!'

To all and each of my men the welcome was given.

"We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji, and

the crowds are dense about me. Suddenly I hear a voice on my right say:

'Good morning, sir!'

"Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of black

people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see him at my

side with the blackest of faces, but animated and joyous--a man dressed

in a long white shirt, with a turban of American sheeting around his

woolly head, and I ask: 'Who the mischief are you?'

"'I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone,' said he, smiling and

showing a gleaming row of teeth.

"'What! is Dr. Livingstone here?'

"'Yes, sir.'

"'In this village?'

"'Yes, sir.'

"'Are you sure?'

"'Sure, sure, sir. Why I just left him.'

"'Good-morning, sir,' said another voice.

"'Hallo,' said I, 'is this another one?'

"'Yes, sir.'

"'Well, what is your name?'

"'My name is Chumah, sir.'

"'What are you, Chumah, the friend of Weko-tani?'

"'Yes, sir.'

"'And is the doctor well?'

"'Not very well, sir.'

"'Where has he been so long?

"'In Manyuema.'

"'Now you, Susi, run and tell the doctor I am coming.'

"'Yes, sir,' and off he darted like a madman.

"By this time we were within two hundred yards of the village, and the

multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our march. Flags and

streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were pushing their way through

the natives in order to greet us, for according to their account we

belonged to them. But the great wonder of all was, 'How did you come

from Unyanyembe?'

"Soon Susi came running back and asked me my name; he had told the

doctor that I was coming, but the doctor was too surprised to believe

him, and when the doctor asked him my name Susi was rather staggered.

"But during Susi's absence the news had been conveyed to the doctor that

it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns were firing and

whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab magnates of Ujiji--Mohammed

bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib and

others--had gathered together before the doctor's house, and the doctor

had come out on his veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival.

"In the meantime, the head of the expedition had halted and the

Kirangozi were out of the ranks, holding the flag aloft, and Selim said

to me, 'I see the doctor, sir. Oh, what an old man! He has got a white

beard.' And I--what would I not have given for a bit of friendly

wilderness where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some mad freak, such as

idiotically biting my hand, turning a somersault, or slashing some

trees, in order to allay those exciting feelings that were well-nigh

uncontrollable. My heart beats fast, but I must not let my face betray

my emotions, lest it shall detract from the dignity of a white man

appearing under such extraordinary circumstances.

"So I did that which I thought was most dignified, I pushed back the

crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue of

people until I came in front of the semi-circle of Arabs, in front of

which stood the white man with the gray beard. As I advanced slowly

toward him I noticed he was pale, looked wearied, had a gray beard, wore

a bluish cap with a faded gold band around it, had on a red-sleeved

waistcoat and a pair of gray tweed trousers. I would have run to him,

only I was a coward in such a mob--would have embraced him, only, he

being an Englishman, I did not know how he would receive me; so I did

what cowardice and false pride suggested was the best thing--walked

deliberately to him, took off my hat and said, 'Dr. Livingstone, I

presume?'

"'Yes,' said he, with a kind smile, lifting his hat slightly.

"I replace my cap on my head, and he puts on his cap, and we both grasp

hands, and then I say aloud: 'I thank God, doctor, I have been permitted

to see you.'

"He answered: 'I feel thankful I am here to welcome you.'

[Illustration: STANLEY MEETING LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI.]

"I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the

saluting chorus of 'Yambos,' I receive, and the doctor introduces them

to me by name. Then oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of the men who

shared with me my dangers, we--Livingstone and I--turn our faces toward

his tembe. He points to the veranda, or rather mud platform, under the

broad over-hanging eaves; he points to his own particular seat, which I

see his age and experience in Africa have suggested, namely, a straw mat

with a goat-skin over it, and another skin nailed against the wall to

protect his back from contact with the cold mud. I protest against

taking this seat, which so much more befits him than me, but the doctor

will not yield: I must take it.

"We are seated--the doctor and I--with our backs to the wall. The Arabs

take seats on our left. More than a thousand natives are in our front,

filling the whole square densely, indulging their curiosity and

discussing the fact of two white men meeting at Ujiji--one just come

from Manyuema, in the west, the other from Unyanyembe, in the east.

"Conversation began. What about? I declare I have forgotten. Oh! we

mutually asked questions of one another, such as: 'How did you come

here?' and 'Where have you been all this long time? the world has

believed you to be dead.' Yes, that was the way it began; but whatever

the doctor informed me, and that which I communicated to him, I cannot

exactly report, for I found myself gazing at him, conning the wonderful

man, at whose side I now sat in Central Africa. Every hair of his head

and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness of his features, and

the slightly wearied look he wore, were all imparting intelligence to

me--the knowledge I craved for so much ever since I heard the words,

'Take what you want, but find Livingstone.' What I saw was deeply

interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished truths I was listening

and reading at the same time. What did these dumb witnesses relate to

me?

"Oh, reader, had you been at my side that day at Ujiji, how eloquently

could be told the nature of this man's work! Had you been there but to

see and hear! His lips gave me the details; lips that never lie. I

cannot repeat what he said; I was too much engrossed to take my

note-book out and begin to stenograph his story. He had so much to say

that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious of the fact that five or

six years had to be accounted for. But his account was oozing out; it

was growing fast into grand proportions--into a most marvelous history

of deeds.

"The Arabs rose up with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively

knew that we ought to be left to ourselves. I sent Bombay with them to

give them the news they also wanted so much to know about the affairs at

Unyanyembe. Sayd bin Majid was the father of the gallant young man whom

I saw at Masange, and who fought with me at Zimbizo, and who soon

afterwards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga--Ruga in the forest of

Wilyankuru; and knowing I had been there, he earnestly desired to hear

the tale of the fight; but they all had friends at Unyanyembe, and it

was but natural that they should be anxious to hear of what concerned

them.

"After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of the

men of the expedition, I called 'Kaif-Halek,' or 'how do ye do,' and

introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in charge of

certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled to accompany me

to Ujiji that he might deliver in person to his master, the letter-bag

he had been intrusted with by Dr. Kirk.

"This was the famous letter-bag marked 'Nov. 1st, 1870,' which was now

delivered into the doctor's hands, three hundred and sixty-five days

after it left Zanzibar! How long, I wonder, had it remained at

Unyanyembe, had I not been dispatched into Central Africa in search of

the great traveler?

"The doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened it,

looked at the letters contained there and read one or two of his

children's letters, his face, in the meanwhile, lighting up.

"He asked me to tell him the news. 'No, doctor,' said I, 'read your

letters first, which, I am sure, you must be impatient to read.'

"'Ah,' said he, 'I have waited years for letters, and I have been taught

patience. I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer. No; tell me

the general news; how is the world getting along?'

"'You probably know much already. Do you know that the Suez Canal is a

fact--is opened and a regular trade carried on between Europe and India

through it?'

"'I did not hear about the opening of it. Well, that is grand news! What

else?'

"Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical to

him. There was no need of exaggeration--of any penny-a-line news, or of

any sensationalism. The world had witnessed and experienced much the

last few years. The Pacific Railroad had been completed; Grant had been

elected President of the United States; Egypt had been flooded with

savans; the Cretan rebellion had terminated; a Spanish revolution had

driven Isabella from the throne of Spain, and a regent had been

appointed; General Prim was assassinated; a Castelar had electrified

Europe with his advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship; Prussia had

humbled Denmark and annexed Schleswig-Holstein, and her armies were now

around Paris; the 'Man of Destiny' was a prisoner at Wilhelmshoehe; the

queen of fashion and the empress of the French was a fugitive; and the

child born in the purple had lost forever the imperial crown intended

for its head; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished by the Prussians,

Bismarck and Von Moltke, and France, the proud empire, was humbled to

the dust.

"What could a man have exaggerated of these facts? What a budget of news

it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the primeval forests of

Manyuema! The reflection of the dazzling light of civilization was cast

on him while Livingstone was thus listening in wonder to one of the most

exciting passages of history ever repeated. How the puny deeds of

barbarism paled before these! Who could tell under what new phases of

uneasy life Europe was laboring even then, while we two of her lonely

children rehearsed the tale of her late woes and glories? More worthily,

perhaps, had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them; but in the

absence of the poet, the newspaper correspondent performed his part as

well and truthfully as he could.

"Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of hot hashed-meat

cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin Majid, and a curried chicken was

received from Mohammed bin Sali, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of

stewed goat meat and rice; and thus presents of food came in succession,

and as fast as they were brought we set to. I had a healthy, stubborn

digestion, the exercise I had taken had put it in prime order, but

Livingstone--he had been complaining that he had no appetite, that his

stomach refused everything but a cup of tea now and then--he ate

also--ate like a vigorous, hungry man; and as he vied with me in

demolishing the pancakes, he kept repeating, 'You have brought me new

life.'

"'Oh, by George,' I said, 'I have forgotten something. Hasten, Selim,

and bring that bottle; you know which; and bring me the silver goblets.

I brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which I hoped would

come to pass, though often it seemed useless to expect it.'

"Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon returned with it--a bottle

of Sillery champagne; and, handing the doctor a silver goblet brimful of

the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small quantity into my own, I said:

'Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir.'

"'And to yours,' he responded.

"And the champagne I had treasured for this happy meeting was drank with

hearty good wishes to each other.

"But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared food was brought to us

all that afternoon, and we kept on eating every time it was brought

until I had eaten even to repletion, and the doctor was obliged to

confess that he had eaten enough. Still, Halimah, the female cook of the

doctor's establishment, was in a state of the greatest excitement. She

had been protruding her head out of the cook-house, to make sure that

there were really two white men sitting down in the veranda, when there

used to be only one, who would not, because he could not, eat anything;

and she had been considerably exercised in her mind over this fact. She

was afraid the doctor did not properly appreciate her culinary

abilities; but now she was amazed at the extraordinary quantity of food

eaten, and she was in a state of delightful excitement. We could hear

her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume of clatter to the wondering

crowds who halted before the kitchen to hear the current of news with

which she edified them. Poor, faithful soul. While we listen to the

noise of her furious gossip, the doctor related her faithful services

and the terrible anxiety she evinced when the guns first announced the

arrival of another white man in Ujiji; how she had been flying about in

a state of the utmost excitement, from the kitchen into his presence,

and out again into the square, asking all sorts of questions; how she

was in despair at the scantiness of the general larder and treasury of

the strange household; how she was anxious to make up for their poverty

by a grand appearance--to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome

the white man.

"'Why,' said she, 'is he not one of us? Does he not bring plenty of

cloth and beads? Talk about the Arabs! Who are they, that they should be

compared to white men? Arabs, indeed!'

"The doctor and I conversed upon many things, especially upon his own

immediate troubles, and his disappointment upon his arrival at Ujiji

when told that all his goods had been sold, and he was reduced to

poverty. He had but twenty cloths or so left of the stock he had

deposited with the man called sheriff, the half-caste, drunken tailor,

who was sent by the British consul in charge of the goods. Besides which

he had been suffering from an attack of the dysentery, and his condition

was most deplorable. He was but little improved on this day, though he

had eaten well, and already began to feel stronger and better.

"This day, like all others, though big with happiness to me, at last,

was fading away. We, sitting with our faces looking to the east, as

Livingstone had been sitting for days preceding my arrival, noted the

dark shadow which crept up above the grove of palms beyond the village,

and above the rampart of mountains which we had crossed that day, now

looming through the fast-approaching darkness; and we listened, with our

hearts full of gratitude to the great Giver of Good and Dispenser of all

Happiness to the sonorous thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to

the chorus which the night insects sang. Hours passed, and we were still

sitting there with our minds busy upon the day's remarkable events, when

I remembered that the venerable traveler had not yet read his letters.

"'Doctor,' I said, 'you had better read your letters. I will not keep

you up any longer.'

"'Yes,' he answered, 'it is getting late, and I will go and read my

friends' letters. Good-night, and God bless you.'

"'Good-night, my dear doctor, and let me hope, your news will be such as

you desire.'"

Since the creation of the world there never has occurred such another

interview. The feelings of Stanley that night, in the heart of Africa,

can only be imagined. The strain had ended, the doubt and suspense were

over--_he had found Livingstone!_ he had succeeded; his most extravagant

dreams had been realized; his wildest ambition was satisfied, and from

that hour the adventurer, the newspaper correspondent, took his place

among the great explorers of the world. But it was no stroke of

luck,--it was the fitting reward of great risks and great endeavor.

Stanley's Adventures in the Wilds of Africa A Graphic Account of the Several Expeditions of Henry M. Stanley into the Heart of the Dark Continent · 第 8 / 35 章