CHAPTER I

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Transcriber's note:

Obvious printer's errors have been corrected; all other

inconsistencies are as in the original. The author's spelling

has been maintained.

Text enclosed by equal signs was in bold face (=bold=).

Text enclosed by asterisks was in an old font (*old font*).

Page 122: "After the treasure ship _Hermione_ had thus been

secured off Cadiz by the _Actaean_ and the _Favorite_" should

probably be "After the treasure ship _Hermione_ had thus been

secured off Cadiz by the _Active_ and the _Favorite_".

WITH THE GUARDS' BRIGADE

FROM BLOEMFONTEIN TO KOOMATI POORT AND BACK

by THE

REV. E. P. LOWRY

Senior Wesleyan Chaplain with the South African Field Force

London

Horace Marshall & Son

Temple House, Temple Avenue, E.C.

1902

TO

THE OFFICERS,

NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS, AND MEN

OF THE GUARDS' BRIGADE

THIS IMPERFECT RECORD OF THEIR HEROIC DARING, AND OF

THEIR YET MORE HEROIC ENDURANCE IS

RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,

IN TOKEN OF SINCEREST ADMIRATION, AND IN GRATEFUL

APPRECIATION OF NUMBERLESS COURTESIES RECEIVED

BY ONE OF THEIR FELLOW TRAVELLERS AND

CHAPLAINS THROUGHOUT THE BOER

WAR OF 1899-1902

PREFACE

The story of my long tramp with the Guards' Brigade was in part told

through a series of letters that appeared in _The Methodist Recorder_,

_The Methodist Times_, and other papers. The first portion of that

series was republished in "Chaplains in Khaki," as also extensive

selections in "From Aldershot to Pretoria." In this volume, therefore,

to avoid needless repetition, the story begins with our triumphal

occupation of Bloemfontein, and is continued till after the time of

the breaking-up of the Guards' Brigade.

No one will expect from a chaplain a technical and critical account of

the complicated military operations he witnessed at the seat of war.

For that he has no qualifications. Nor, on the other hand, would it be

quite satisfactory if he wrote only of what the chaplains and other

Christian workers were themselves privileged to do in connection with

the war. That would necessitate great sameness, if not great tameness.

These pages are rather intended to set forth the many-sided life of

our soldiers on active service, their privations and perils, their

failings and their heroisms, their rare endurance, and in some cases

their unfeigned piety; that all may see what manner of men they were

who in so many instances laid down their lives in the defence of the

empire; and amid what stupendous difficulties they endeavoured to do

their duty.

We owe it to the fact that these men have volunteered in such numbers

for military service that Britain alone of all European nations has

thus far escaped the curse of the conscription. In that sense,

therefore, they are the saviours and substitutes of the entire manhood

of our nation. If they had not consented of their own accord to step

into the breach, every able Englishman now at his desk, behind his

counter, or toiling at his bench, must have run the risk of having had

so to do. We owe to these men more than we have ever realised. It is

but right, therefore, that more than ever they should henceforth live

in an atmosphere of grateful kindliness, of Christian sympathy and

effort.

"God bless you, Tommy Atkins,

_Here's your country's love to you!_"

My authorities for the statements made in the introductory chapter are

Fitzpatrick's "Pretoria from Within," and Martineau's "Life of Sir

Bartle Frere." For the verifying or correcting of my own facts and

figures, given later on, I have consulted Conan Doyle's "The Great

Boer War," Stott's "The Invasion of Natal," and almost all other

available literature relating to the subject.

EDWARD P. LOWRY.

PRETORIA, _March 1902_.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER

Page

THE ULTIMATUM AND WHAT LED TO IT 1

Two Notable Dreamers--A Bankrupt Republic--The Man who

Schemed as well as Dreamed--The Gold Plague--Hated Johannesburg

--Boer preparations for War--Coming events cast their shadows

before--The Ultimatum--The Rallying of the Clans--The

Rousing of the Colonies.

CHAPTER I

ON THE WAY TO BLOEMFONTEIN, AND IN IT! 14

A capital little Capital--Famished Men and Famine Prices--

Republican Commandeering--A Touching Story--The Price of

Milk.

CHAPTER II

A LONG HALT 24

Refits--Remounts--Regimental Pets--Civilian Hospitality and

Soldiers' Homes--Soldiers' Christian Association Work--

Rudyard Kipling's Mistake--All Fools' Day--Eastertide in

Bloemfontein--The Epidemic and the Hospitals--All hands and

houses to the rescue--A sad sample of Enteric--Church of

England Chaplains at work.

CHAPTER III

THROUGH WORLDS UNKNOWN AND FROM WORLDS UNKNOWN 45

A Pleasure Jaunt--Onwards, but Whither!--That Pom-Pom again

--A Problem not quite solved--A Touching Sight--Rifle Firing

and Firing Farms--Boer Treachery and the White Flag--The Pet

Lamb still lives and learns--Right about face--From Worlds

Unknown--The Bushmen and their Australian Chaplains.

CHAPTER IV

QUICK MARCH TO THE TRANSVAAL 57

A Comedy--A Tragedy--A Wide Front and a Resistless Force--

Brandfort--"Stop the War" Slanders--A Prisoner who tried to

be a Poet--Militant Dutch Reformed Predikants--Our Australian

Chaplain's pastoral experiences--The Welsh Chaplain.

CHAPTER V

TO THE VALSCH RIVER AND THE VAAL 70

The Sand River Convention--Railway Wrecking and Repairing--

The Tale, and Tails, of a Singed Overcoat--Lord Roberts as

Hospital Visitor--President Steyn's Sjambok--A Sunday at last

that was also a Sabbath--Military Police on the March--A

General's glowing eulogy of the Guards--Good News by the way--

Over the Vaal at last.

CHAPTER VI

A CHAPTER ABOUT CHAPLAINS 88

A Chaplain who found the Base became the Front--Pathetic Scenes

in Hospital--A Battlefield Scene no less Pathetic--Look on

this Picture, and on that--A third-class Chaplain who proved a

first-rate Chaplain--Running in the Wrong Man--A Wainman who

proved a real Waggoner--Three bedfellows in a barn--A

fourth-class Chaplain that was also a first-rate Chaplain--A

Parson Prisoner in the hands of the Boers--Caring for the

Wounded--How the Chaplain's own Tent was bullet-riddled--A

Sample Set of Sunday Services.

CHAPTER VII

THE HELPFUL WORK OF THE OFFICIATING CLERGY 103

At Cape Town and Wynberg--Saved from Drowning to sink in

Hospital--A Pleasant Surprise--The Soldiers' Reception

Committee--The other way about--Our near kinship to the Boers

--More good Work on our right Flank.

CHAPTER VIII

GETTING TO THE GOLDEN CITY 113

An elaborate night toilet--Capturing Clapham Junction--Dear

diet and dangerous--No Wages but the Sjambok--The Gold Mines

--The Soldiers' Share--The Golden City--Astonishing the

Natives.

CHAPTER IX

PRETORIA--THE CITY OF ROSES 127

Whit-Monday and Wet Tuesday--"Light after Dark"--Why the

Surrender?--Taking Possession--"Resurgam"--A Striking

Incident--No Canteens and no Crime.

CHAPTER X

PRETORIAN INCIDENTS AND IMPRESSIONS 142

The State's Model School--Rev. Adrian Hoffmeyer--The

Waterfall Prisoners--A Soldier's Hymn--A big Supper Party--

The Soldiers' Home--Mr and Mrs Osborn Howe--A Letter from

Lord Kitchener--Also from Lord Roberts--A Song in praise of

De Wet--Cordua and his Conspiracy--Hospital Work in Pretoria

--The Wear and Tear of War--The Nursing Sisters--A Surprise

Packet--Soldierly Gratitude--_The Ladysmith Lyre_.

CHAPTER XI

FROM PRETORIA TO BELFAST 169

The Boer way of saying "Bosh"--News from a far Country

--Further fighting--Touch not, taste not, handle not--More

Treachery and still more--The root of the matter--A Tight Fit

--Obstructives on the Rail--Middleburg and the Doppers--

August Bank Holiday--Blowing up Trains--A peculiar Mothers'

Meeting--Aggressive Ladies--A Dutch Deacon's Testimony--A

German Officer's Testimony.

CHAPTER XII

THROUGH HELVETIA 190

The Fighting near Belfast--Feeding under Fire--A German

Doctor's Confession--Friends in need are Friends indeed--The

Invisible Sniper's Triumph--"He sets the mournful Prisoners

free"--More Boer Slimness--A Boer Hospital--Foreign

Mercenaries--A wounded Australian--Hotel Life on the Trek--

A Sheep-pen of a Prison--Pretty Scenery and Superb.

CHAPTER XIII

WAR'S WANTON WASTE 210

A Surrendered Boer General--Two Unworthy Predikants--Two

Notable Advocates of Clemency--Mines without Men, and Men

without Meat--Much Fat in the Fire--More Fat and Mightier

Flames--A Welcome Lift by the Way--"Rags and Tatters, get ye

gone!"--Destruction and still more Destruction--At Koomati

Poort--Two Notable Fugitives--The Propaganda of the Africander

Bond--Ex-President Steyn--Paul Botha's opinion of this

Ex-President.

CHAPTER XIV

FROM PORTUGUESE AFRICA TO PRETORIA 231

Staggering Humanity--Food for Flames--A Crocodile in the

Koomati--A Hippopotamus in the Koomati--A Via Dolorosa--

Over the Line--Westward Ho!--Ruined Farms and Ruined Firms--

Farewell to the Guards' Brigade!

CHAPTER XV

A WAR OF CEASELESS SURPRISES 245

Exhaustlessness of Boer resources--The Peculiarity of Boer

Tactics--The Surprisers Surprised--Train Wrecking--The

Refugee Camps--The Grit of the Guards--The Irregulars--The

Testimony of the Cemetery--Death and Life in Pretoria.

CHAPTER XVI

PRETORIA AND THE ROYAL FAMILY 261

Suzerainty turned to Sovereignty--Prince Christian Victor--A

Royal Funeral--A Touching Story--The Death of the Queen--

The King's Coronation.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER

THE ULTIMATUM AND WHAT LED TO IT

When the late Emperor of the French was informed, on the eve of the

Franco-German War, that not so much as a gaiter button would be found

wanting if hostilities were at once commenced, soon all France found

itself, with him, fatally deceived. But when the Transvaal Burghers

boasted that they were "ready to give the British such a licking as

they had never had before," it proved no idle vaunting. Whether the

average Boer understood the real purpose for which he was called to

arms seems doubtful; but his leaders made no secret of their intention

to drive the hated "Roineks" into the sea, and to claim, as the

notorious "Bond" frankly put it, "all South Africa for the

Africanders." The Rev. Adrian Hoffmeyer of the Dutch Reformed Church

freely admits that the watchword of the Western Boers was "Tafelburg

toc," that is, "To Table Mountain"; and that their commandant said to

him, "We will not rest till our flag floats there."

Similarly on the eastern side it was their confident boast that

presently they would be "eating fish and drinking coffee at sea-side

Durban." There would thus be one flag floating over all South Africa;

and that flag not the Union Jack but its supplanter.

[Sidenote: _Two notable Dreamers._]

Now the Dutch have undoubtedly as absolute a right to dream dreams of

wide dominion as we ourselves have; and this particular dream had no

less undeniably been the chief delight of some among them for more

than a decade twice told.

Even PRESIDENT BRAND, of the Orange Free State, referring to Lord

Carnarvon's pet idea of a federated South Africa, said: "His great

scheme is a united South Africa _under the British Flag_. He dreams of

it and so do I; but _under the flag of South Africa_." Much in the

same strain PRESIDENT BURGERS, of the Transvaal Republic, when

addressing a meeting of his countrymen in Holland, said: "In that

far-off country the inhabitants dream of a future in which the people

of Holland will recover their former greatness." He was convinced that

within half a century there would be in South Africa a population of

eight millions; all speaking the Dutch language; a _second_ Holland,

as energetic and liberty-loving as the first; but greater in extent,

and greater in power.

[Sidenote: _A Bankrupt Republic._]

Nevertheless, in this far-seeing President's day, the Transvaal, after

fourteen years of doubtful independence, reached in 1877 its lowest

depths of financial and political impotency. Its valiant burghers were

vanquished in one serious conflict with the natives; and, emboldened

thereby, the Zulus were audaciously threatening to eat them up, when

Shepstone appeared upon the scene. "I thank my father Shepstone for

his restraining message," said Cetewayo. "The Dutch have tired me out;

and I intended to fight with them once, _only once_, and to drive them

over the Vaal." The jails were thrown open because food was no longer

obtainable for the prisoners. The State officials, including the

President, knew not where to secure their stipends, and were

hopelessly at variance among themselves. The Transvaal one-pound notes

were selling for a single shilling, and the State treasury contained

only twelve shillings and sixpence wherewith to pay the interest on a

comparatively heavy State debt, besides almost innumerable other

claims.

No wonder, therefore, that Burgers, in disgust, declared he would

sooner be a policeman under a strong government. "Matters are as bad

as they ever can be," said he; "they cannot be worse!" Hence its

annexation, in 1877, by Sir Theophilus Shepstone, without the

assistance of a solitary soldier, but with the eager assent of

thousands of the burghers, bade fair to prove the salvation of the

Transvaal, and probably would have done, had the easily-to-be-obtained

consent of the Volksraad been at once sought, and Lord Carnarvon's

promise of speedy South African Federation, together with a generous

measure of local self-government, been promptly redeemed. But European

complications, with serious troubles on the Indian frontier, caused

interminable delay in the maturing of this scheme; and as the

disappointed Boers grew restive, a "Hold your Jaw" Act was passed,

making it a penal offence for any Transvaaler even to discuss such

questions. In our simplicity we sit upon the safety valve and then

wonder why the boiler bursts. To the "Hold your Jaw" policy the Boer

reply was an appeal to arms; and at Majuba in the spring of 1881 their

rifles said what their jaws were forbidden to say. Majuba was indeed a

mere skirmish, an affair of outposts; but Magersfontein and Spion Kop

are the legitimate sons of Majuba.

[Sidenote: _The man who Schemed as well as Dreamed._]

Napoleon, with possibly a veiled reference to himself, once said to

the French people, "You have the men, but where is _The Man_?" The

Boers in the day of their uprising against British rule found "The

Man" in PAUL STEPHANUS KRUGER. To all South Africa a veritable "man of

Destiny" has he proved to be; and for eighteen successive years, as

their honoured President he has ruled his people with an absoluteness

no European potentate could possibly approach. By birth a British

subject, and for a brief while after the annexation a paid official of

the British Government, he yet seems all his life to have been a

consistent hater of all things British. When only ten years old, a

tattered, bare-legged, unlettered lad, he joined "The great Trek"

which in 1837 sought on the dangerous and dreary veldt beyond the Vaal

a refuge from British rule. He it was who, surviving the terrors of

those tragic times and trained in that stern school, became like Brand

and Burgers a dreamer of dreams. He lived to baffle by his superior

shrewdness, or slimness, all the arts of English diplomacy. In his

later years this President manifestly deemed himself chosen of Heaven

to make an end of British rule from the Zambesi to the sea. "The

Transvaal shall never be shut up in a kraal," said he. A Sovereign

International State he declared it was, or should be, with free access

to the ocean; and how astonishingly near he came to the accomplishment

of these bold aims we now know to our exceeding cost. Nevertheless, to

this persistent dreamer of dreams the two South African Republics owe

their extinction; while the British Empire owes to him more than to

any other living man its fast approaching Federation.

With surprising secrecy and success the Transvaal officials prepared

for the inevitable conflict which the attempted fulfilment of such

bold dreams involved, and in that preparation were rendered essential

aid, first by the discovery, not far from Pretoria, of the richest

goldfield in the whole world, which soon provided them with the

necessary means; and next by the Jameson Raid, which provided them

with the necessary excuse.

To Steevens, the lamented correspondent of _The Daily Mail_, a Dopper

editor and predikant said, "I do not think the Transvaal Government

has been wise, and I told them they made a great mistake when they let

people come in to the mines. _This gold will ruin you; to remain

independent you must remain poor_"! Perhaps so! but the modern world

is not built that way. No trekkers nowadays may take possession of

half a continent, forbid all others to come in, and right round the

frontier post up notices "Trespassers will be prosecuted." Even

Robinson Crusoe had not long landed on his desolate isle when he was

startled by the sight of a strange footprint on the seashore sand.

Welcome or unwelcome, somebody else had come! Crusoe and his man

Friday might set up no exclusive rights in a heritage that for a brief

while seemed all their own. The Boer with his Kaffir bondsman has been

compelled to learn the same distasteful lesson. The wealth of the

Witwaters Rand was for those who could win it; and for that stupendous

task the Boer had neither the necessary aptitude nor the necessary

capital. It was not, therefore, for him to echo the cry of Edie

Ochiltree when he found hid treasure amid the ruins of St Roth's

Abbey--"Nae halvers and quarters,--hale o' mine ain and nane o' my

neighbours." The bankrupt Boer had to let his enterprising neighbour

in to do the digging, or get no gold at all.

[Sidenote: _Hated Johannesberg._]

Nevertheless, the upspringing as by magic of the great city of

Johannesberg in the midst of the dreary veldt filled Kruger's soul

with loathing. When once asked to permit prospecting for minerals

around Pretoria, he replied, "Look at Johannesberg! We have enough

gold and gold seekers in the country already!" The presence of this

ever-growing multitude was felt to be a perpetual menace to Dutch, and

more especially to Dopper supremacy. So, in his frankly confessed

detestation of them, their Dopper President for five years at a

stretch never once came near them, and when at last he ventured to

halt within twenty miles of their great city it was thus he commenced

his address to the crowd at Krugersdorp:--"Burghers, friends,

_thieves_, _murderers_, _newcomers_, and others." The reek of the Rand

was evidently even then in his nostrils; and the mediaeval saint that

could smell a heretic nine miles off was clearly akin to Kruger.

Unfortunately for him the "newcomers" outnumbered the old by five to

one, and were a bewilderingly mixed assortment, representing almost

every nationality under the whole heaven. In what had suddenly become

the chief city of the Transvaal, with a white population of over

50,000, only seven per cent. were Dutch, and sixty-five per cent. were

British. These aliens from many lands paid nearly nine-tenths of the

taxes, yet were persistently denied all voice alike in national and

municipal affairs. "Rights!" exclaimed the angry President when

appealed to for redress, "Rights! They shall win them only over my

dead body!" At whatever cost he was stubbornly resolved that as long

as he lived the tail should still wag the dog instead of the dog the

tail; and that a continually dwindling minority of simple farmer folk

should rule an ever-growing majority of enterprising city men. Though

the political equality of all white inhabitants was the underlying

condition on which self-government was restored to the Transvaal, what

the Doppers had won by bullets they would run no risk of losing

through the ballot box, and so one measure of exclusion after another

rapidly became law. When reminded that in other countries Outlanders

were welcomed and soon given the franchise, the shrewd old President

replied, "Yes! but in other countries the newcomers do not _outswamp_

the old burghers." The whole grievance of the Boers is neatly summed

up in that single sentence; and so far it proves them well entitled to

our respectful pity.

It was, however, mere fatalism resisting fate when to a deputation of

complaining Outlanders Kruger said "Cease holding public meetings! Go

back and tell your people I will never give them anything!" Similarly

when in 1894 35,000 adult male Outlanders humbly petitioned that they

might be granted some small representation in the councils of the

Republic, which would have made loyal burghers of them all, the

short-sighted President contended that he might just as well haul down

the Transvaal flag at once. There was a strong Dopper conviction that

to grant the franchise on any terms to this alien crowd would speedily

degrade the Transvaal into a mere Johannesberg Republic; and they

would sooner face any fate than that; so the Raad, with shouts of

derision, rejected the Outlanders' petition as a saucy request to

commit political suicide. They felt no inclining that way!

Nevertheless one of their number ventured to say, "Now our country is

gone. Nothing can settle this but fighting!" And that man was a

prophet.

[Sidenote: _Boer preparations for War._]

For that fighting the President and his Hollander advisers began to

prepare with a timeliness and thoroughness we can but admire, however

much in due time we were made to smart thereby. Through the suicide of

a certain State official it became known that in 1894--long therefore

before the Raid--no less than L500,000 of Transvaal money had been

sent to Europe for secret uses. Those secret uses, however, revealed

themselves to us in due time at Magersfontein and Colenso. The

Portuguese customs entries at Delagoa Bay will certify that from 1896

to 1898 at least 200,000 rifles passed through that port to the

Transvaal. It was an unexampled reserve for states so small. The

artillery, too, these peace-loving Boers laid up in store against the

time to come, not only exceeded in quantity, but also _outranged_, all

that British South Africa at that time possessed. Their theology might

be slightly out-of-date, but in these more material things the Boers

were distinctly up-to-date. For many a week after the war began both

the largest and the smallest shells that went curving across our

battlefields were theirs; while many of our guns were mere popguns

firing smoky powder, and almost as useless as catapults. It was not a

new Raid these costly weapons were purchased to repel; neither men nor

nations employ sledge-hammers to drive home tinned-tacks. It was a

mighty Empire they were intended to assail; and a mighty Republic they

were intended to create.

When the fateful hour arrived for the hurling of the Ultimatum, in

very deed "not a gaiter button" was found wanting on their side; and

every fighting man was well within reach of his appointed post.

Fierce-looking farmers from the remotest veldt, and sleek urban

Hollanders, German artillerists, French generals, Irish-Americans,

Colonial rebels, all were ready. The horse and his rider, prodigious

supplies of food stuffs, and every conceivable variety of warlike

stores, were planted at sundry strategic points along the Natal and

Cape Colony frontiers. War then waited on a word and that word was

soon spoken!

[Sidenote: _Coming events cast their shadows before._]

As early as September 18th, 1899, the Transvaal sent an unbending and

defiant message to the British Government. On September 21st the

Orange Free State, after forty years of closest friendship with

England, officially resolved to cast in her lot with the Transvaal

against England. On September 29th through railway communication

between Natal and the Transvaal was stopped by order of the Transvaal

Government. On September 30th twenty-six military trains left Pretoria

and Johannesberg for the Natal border; and that same day saw 16,000

Boers thus early massed near Majuba Hill. Yet at that very time the

British forces in South Africa were absolutely and absurdly inadequate

not merely for defiance but even for defence. On October 3rd, a full

week before the delivery of the Ultimatum, the Transvaal mail train to

the Cape was stopped at the Transvaal frontier, and the English gold

it carried, valued at L500,000, was seized by the Transvaal

Government. Whether that capture be regarded merely as a premature act

of war or as highway robbery, it leaves no room for doubt as to which

side in this quarrel is the aggressor; and when at last the challenge

came, even chaplains could with a clear conscience, though by no means

with a light heart, set out for the seat of war.

[Sidenote: _The Ultimatum._]

Surely never since the world began was such an Ultimatum presented to

one of the greatest Powers on earth by what were supposed to be two of

the weakest. At the very time that armed and eager burghers were thus

massing threateningly on our frontiers, the Queen it will be

remembered was haughtily commanded to withdraw from those frontiers

the pitifully few troops then guarding them; to recall, in the sight

of all Europe, every soldier that in the course of the previous

twelvemonth had been sent to our South African Colonies; and solemnly

to pledge herself, at Boer bidding, that those then on the sea should

not be suffered to set foot on African soil. Moreover, so urgent was

this audacious demand that Pretoria allowed London only forty-eight

hours in which to decide what should be its irrevocable doom, to lay

aside the pride of empire, or pay the price of it in blood.

Superb in its audacity was that demand: and, if war was indeed fated

to come, this daring challenge was for England as serviceable a deed

as unwitting foemen ever wrought.

[Sidenote: _The rallying of the Clans._]

It put a sudden end for a season to all controversy. It rallied in

defence of our Imperial heritage almost every class, and every creed.

It thrilled us all, like the blast of the warrior horn of Roderick

Dhu, which transformed the very heather of the Highlands into fighting

men. As the soldiers' laureate puts it "Duke's son and cook's son,"

with rival haste responded to the martial call. To serve their

assailed and sorrowing Queen, royal court and rural cottage gave

freely of their best. It intensified the patriotism of us all; and

probably never, since the days of the Armada, had the United Kingdom

of Great Britain and Ireland found itself so essentially united.

[Sidenote: _The rousing of the Colonies._]

The effect of the Ultimatum throughout the length and breadth of

Greater Britain was no less remarkable than its first results at home.

Not only the two Colonies that, alas, were soon to be overrun by

hostile hordes, and mercilessly looted, but also those farthest

removed from the fray, instantly took fire, and burned with

imperialistic zeal that stinted neither men nor means.

"A varied host, from kindred realms they come,

Brethren in arms, but rivals in renown."

The declaration of war united the ends of the earth in a common

enthusiasm, and sent a strange throb of brotherhood right round the

globe. The whole empire at last awoke to a sense of its essential

oneness. Australians and Canadians, men from Burma, from India and

Ceylon, speedily joined hands on the far distant veldt in defence of

what they proudly felt to be their heritage as well as ours. Their

presence in the very forefront of the fray betokened the advent of a

new era. Nobler looking men, or men of a nobler spirit, were never

brought together at the unfurling of any banner. They were the outcome

of competitions strangely keen and close. Sydney for instance called

for five hundred volunteers; but within a few days _three thousand_

five hundred valiant men were clamouring for acceptance. So was it in

Montreal. So it was everywhere. Often too at no slight financial

sacrifice was the post of peril sought. As a type of many more, I was

told of an Australian doctor who paid a substitute L300 to carry on

his practice, while he as a private joined the fighting ranks and

faced cheerily the manifold privations of the hungry veldt. Rich is

the empire that owns such sons; and myriads of them in the hour of

impending conflict were ready to say--

"War? We would rather peace! But, MOTHER, if fight we must,

There are none of your sons on whom you can lean with a surer trust.

Bone of your bone are we; and in death would be dust of your dust!"

It was the Ultimatum that thus linked to each other and to us those

loyal hearts that longed to keep the empire whole; and thus President

Kruger in his blindness became Greater Britain's boundless benefactor.

CHAPTER I

ON THE WAY TO BLOEMFONTEIN, AND IN IT

"For old times' sake

Don't let enmity live;

For old times' sake

Say you will forget and forgive.

Life is too short for quarrel;

Hearts are too precious to break;

Shake hands and let us be friends

For old times' sake!"

So gaily sang the Scots Guards as, in hope of speedy triumph and

return, we left Southampton for Kruger's Land on the afternoon of

October 21st, 1899.

[Illustration: _From a photograph by Mr Westerman_

A Magersfontein Boer Trench.]

Our last evening in England brought us the welcome tidings that on

that day, the Boers who had thus early invaded Natal with a view to

annexing it, had been badly beaten at Talana Hill. That seemed a good

beginning; and it sent us to sea with lightsome hearts; nor was it

till long after we landed in South Africa that we learned what had

really taken place during our cheerful voyage;--that on the very day

we embarked, the battle of Elandslaagte had been won by our

hard-pressed comrades, but at a cost of 260 casualties; and that the

very next day--The _Nubia's_ first Sunday at sea--Dundee with all its

stores had perforce been abandoned by 4000 of our retreating troops,

for whose relief, two days later, Tinta Inyoni was fought by General

French; that on Oct. 29th while we were spending a tranquil Sunday

in St Vincent's harbour there commenced the struggle that culminated

in the Nicholson's Nek disaster; and that on Nov. 13th, while we were

awaiting orders in Table Bay, the capture of our armoured train at

Chieveley took place. Clearly it was blissful ignorance that begat our

hopes of brief absence from home, and of the easy vanquishing of our

hardy foes!

Two days later I reached the Orange River; and, on the courteous

suggestion of Lord Methuen, was attached to the mess of the 3rd

Grenadier Guards, as was also my "guide, philosopher and friend" the

Rev. T. F. Falkner our Anglican chaplain. Here I left my invaluable

helper, Army Scripture Reader Pearce; while, with the Guards' Brigade

now made complete by the arrival of the 1st and 2nd Coldstream

battalions, I pushed forward to be present at the four battles which

followed in startlingly swift succession, and which I have already

with sufficient fulness described in "Chaplains in Khaki," viz.

Belmont on Nov. 23rd, Graspan on Nov. 25th, Modder River on Nov. 28th,

and the Magersfontein defeat on Dec. 11th, for which, however, the

next Amajuba Day--Feb. 27th, 1900--brought us ample compensation in

the surrender of Cronje and his 4000 veterans, with the ever memorable

sequel to that surrender, the occupation of Bloemfontein by the

British forces.

[Sidenote: _A capital little Capital._]

It would probably be difficult to find anywhere under the sun a more

prosperous and promising little city, or one better governed than

Bloemfontein, which the Guards entered on the afternoon of Tuesday,

March 13th, 1900. There is not a scrap of cultivated land anywhere

around it. It is very literally a child of the veldt; and still clings

strangely to its nursing mother. Indeed the veldt is not only round

about it on every side, but even asserts its presence in many an

unfinished street. You are still on the veldt in the midst of the

city; and the characteristic kopje is in full view here, there, and

everywhere. On one side of the city is the old fort built by the

British more than fifty years ago, and soon after vacated by them, but

it is erected of course on a kopje, on one slope of which, part of the

city now stands. On the opposite side of the town is a new fort; but

that also crowns a kopje. This metropolis of what was then the Orange

Free State, thus intensely African in its situation and surroundings,

was nevertheless an every way worthy centre of a worthy State.

Many of its public buildings are notably fine, as for instance the

Government Offices over which it was my memorable privilege to see the

Union Jack unceremoniously hoisted; and the Parliament Hall, on the

opposite side of the same road, erected some twelve years ago at a

cost of L80,000. The Grey College, which accommodates a hundred boy

boarders, is an edifice of which almost any city would be proud; and

"The Volk's Hospital," that is "The People's Hospital," is also an

altogether admirable institution. From the commencement of the war

this was used for the exclusive benefit of sick or wounded Boers and

of captured Britishers who were in the same sore plight. Among these I

found many English officers, who all bore witness to the kind and

skilful treatment they had uniformly received from the hospital

authorities; but when the Boer forces hurried away from Bloemfontein

they were compelled to leave their sick and wounded behind; with the

result that as at Jacobsdal, the English patients at once ceased to be

prisoners, while the Boer patients at once became prisoners. So do the

wheels of war and fortune go whirling round!

With a white population of under ten thousand all told, a large

proportion is of British descent; and presently a positively

surprising number of Union Jacks sprang forth from their hiding-places

and fluttered merrily all over the town. Everybody was thankful that

no bombardment had taken place; but many even of the British residents

regarded with sincere regret the final extinction of the independence

of this once self-governed and well-governed Republic.

[Sidenote: _Famished men and famine prices._]

The story has now everywhere been told of the soldier lad who, when he

caught sight of his first swarm of locusts, wonderingly exclaimed as

he noted their peculiar colour, "I'm blest if the butterflies out here

haven't put on khaki." Bloemfontein very soon did the same. Khaki of

various shades and various degrees of dirtiness saluted me at every

point. Khaki men upon khaki men swarmed everywhere. Brigade followed

brigade in apparently endless succession; but all clad in the same

irrepressible colour, till it became quite depressing. No wonder the

townspeople soon took to calling the soldiers "locusts," not merely

out of compliment to the gay colour of their costume, but also as

aptly descriptive of their apparent countlessness. They seemed like

the sands by the seashore, innumerable. They bade fair to swallow up

the place.

That last expression, however, suggests yet another point of

resemblance. For longer than these men seemed able to remember, the

order of the day had been "long marches and short rations." When,

therefore, they reached this welcome halting-place they were simply

famished; insatiably hungry, they eagerly spent their last coin in

buying up whatever provisions had fortunately escaped the

commandeering of the Boers. There was no looting, no lawlessness of

any kind; and many a civilian gave his last loaf to a starving

trooper. There was soon a famine in the place and no train to bring us

fresh supplies. All the bakeries of the town were commandeered by the

new government for the benefit of the troops; but like the five loaves

of the gospel story, "What were they among so many?" I saw the men,

like swarms of bees, clustering around the doors and clambering on to

the window-sills of these establishments, enjoying apparently the

smell of the baking bread, and cherishing the vain hope of being able

to purchase a loaf when at last the ovens were emptied.

So too at the grocers' shops, a "tail" was daily formed outside the

door, which at intervals was cautiously opened to let in a few at a

time of these clamorous customers, who presently retired by the back

door, laden more or less with such articles as happened to be still in

store; but muttering as they came out "this is like Klondyke," with

evident reference not to Klondyke gold, but to Klondyke prices. It was

not the traders that needed protection as against the troopers, but

the troopers that needed protection as against some of the traders.

Even proclamation prices were alarmingly high, as for instance, a

shilling for a pound of sugar. Sixpence was the popular price for a

cup of tea, often without milk or sugar. The quartermaster whose tent

I shared was charged four shillings for a single "whisky and soda,"

and was informed that if he wanted a bottle of whisky the price would

be thirty-five shillings. On such terms tradesmen who, before the war,

had laid in large and semi-secret stores now reaped a magnificent

harvest. One provision merchant was reported to have thus sold L700

worth of goods before breakfast on a certain Saturday morning, in

which case he would perhaps reckon that on that particular date his

breakfast had been well earned. It probably meant in part a wholesale

army order; but even in that case it would be for cash, and not a case

of commandeering after the fashion of the Boers.

A crippled Scandinavian tailor told me that his constant charge,

whether to Colonels or Kaffirs, was two shillings an hour; and that he

thought his needle served him badly if it did not bring him in L6 a

week. About the same time a single-handed but nimble-fingered barber

claimed to have made L100 in one week out of the invading British; but

his victims declared that his price was a shilling for a shave and two

shillings for a clip. At those figures the seemingly impossible comes

to pass--if only customers are plentiful enough. Oh for a business in

Bloemfontein!

[Sidenote: _Republican Commandeering._]

The Republicans of South Africa have always been credited with an

ingrained objection to paying rates and taxes even in war time; but

they frankly recognise the reasonableness of governmental

commandeering, and apparently submit to it without a murmur;

especially when it hits most heavily the stranger within their gates.

Accordingly, the war-law of the Orange Free State authorises the

commandeering without payment of every available man, and of all

available material of whatsoever kind within thirty days of war being

declared. During those thirty days, therefore, the war-broom sweeps

with a most commendable thoroughness; and all the more so, because

after that date everything must be paid for at market values. Why pay,

if being a little "previous" will serve the same purpose?

A gentleman farmer whom it was my privilege to visit, some fifteen

miles out from Bloemfontein, told me he had been thus commandeered to

the extent of about L3100; the value of waggons, oxen, and produce, he

was compelled gratuitously to supply to his non-taxing government. A

specially prosperous store-keeper in the town was said to have had

L600 worth of goods taken from him in the same way; but then, of

course, he had the compensating comfort of feeling that he was not

being taxed! Even Republics cannot make war quite without cost; and by

this time some are beginning to discover that it is the most ruinously

expensive of all pursuits.

The Republican conscription was equally wide reaching; for every

capable man between the ages of sixteen and sixty was required to

place himself and his rifle at the service of the State. Even sons of

British parentage, being burghers, were not allowed to cross the

border and so escape this, in many a case, hateful obligation. Their

life was forfeit, if they sought to evade the dread duties of the

fighting line, and refused to level reluctant rifles against men

speaking the same mother tongue. Some few, however, secured the rare

privilege of acting simply as despatch riders, or as members of the

Boer ambulance corps.

[Sidenote: _A touching story._]

One of the sons of my Methodist farmer friend had been thus employed

at Magersfontein, but had now seized the first opportunity of taking

the oath and returning to his home. With his own lips he told me that

on that fatal field he had found the body of an English officer, in

whose cold hand lay an open locket, and in the locket two portraits;

one the portrait of a fair English lady, and the other that of a still

fairer English child. So, before the eyes of one dying on the

blood-stained veldt did visions of home and loved ones flit. Life's

last look turned thither! In war, the cost in cash is clearly the cost

that is of least consequence. Who can appraise aright the price of

that one locket?

Yet, appositely enough, as, that same evening, I was being driven back

to town in a buggy and four, a little maiden--perchance like the

maiden of the locket--wonderingly exclaimed as she watched the sun

sink in radiance behind a neighbouring hill: "Why! just look! The sky

is English!" "How so?" asked her father. "Can't you see?" said the

child; "it is all red, white, and blue!" which indeed it was!

[Sidenote: _The price of milk._]

But our title to this newly-conquered territory was by no means quite

so unchallenged as such a complacent and complimentary sky might have

led one to suppose. The heavens above us were for the moment English,

but scarcely the earth beneath us; and certainly not the land beyond

us. Great even thus far had been the price of conquest; but the full

sum was not yet ready for the reckoning. No new Magersfontein awaited

us, and no new Paardeberg; but the incessant risking of precious life,

and much loss thereof in other fashions than those of the battlefield.

Possibly one of the most distressing cases of that kind occurred only

two days after near Karee, a few miles beyond Bloemfontein. The

officers of the Guards had become famous for their care of their men,

and for their constant endeavour to keep them well served with

supplementary supplies of food. They foraged right and left, and

bargained with the farmers for all available milk and butter and

cheese and bread. Men on the march cannot always live on rations only,

and good leadership looks after the larder as well as after the lives

of the men. On this gracious errand there rode forth from the camp as

fine a group of regimental officers as could possibly be found; to

wit, the colonel of the Grenadiers, his adjutant and transport officer

who, beyond most, were choice young men and goodly; also the colonel

of one of the Coldstream battalions, and one orderly. Hiding near a

neighbouring kopje was a small body of Zarps watching for a chance of

sniping or capturing a seceding Boer. Of them our officers caught

sight, and with characteristic British pluck sought to capture them.

But on the kopje the Boers found effectual cover, plied their rifles

vigorously and presently captured all their would-be captors. As at

Belmont, and on the same day of the month, the colonel of the

Grenadiers was wounded in two places; the transport officer, the son

of one of our well-known generals, lost his right arm; the adjutant, a

younger brother of a noted earl, was shot through the heart, and the

life of the other colonel was for a while despaired of. It was in some

senses the saddest disaster that had yet befallen the Guards' Brigade;

and it was the outcome not of some decisive battle, but of a kindly

quest for milk.

With the Guards' Brigade from Bloemfontein to Koomati Poort and Back · 第 1 / 16 章