A start made at last--A forced march--Lightening the ship--Waiting
for the caravan--Success hangs in the balance--The greatest rascal in
Central Africa--Legge demands another bottle.
The country was park-like, but much parched by the dry weather. The
ground was sandy, but firm, and interspersed with numerous villages, all
of which were surrounded with a strong fence of euphorbia. The country
was well wooded, being free from bush or jungle, but numerous trees,
all evergreens, were scattered over the landscape. No natives were to be
seen but the sound of their drums and singing in chorus was heard in the
far distance. Whenever it is moonlight the nights are passed in singing
and dancing, beating drums, blowing horns, and the population of whole
villages thus congregate together.
After a silent march of two hours we saw watchfires blazing in the
distance, and upon nearer approach we perceived the trader's party
bivouacked. Their custom is to march only two or three hours on the
first day of departure, to allow stragglers who may have lagged behind
in Gondokoro to rejoin the party before morning.
We were roughly challenged by their sentries as we passed, and were
instantly told "not to remain in their neighborhood." Accordingly we
passed on for about half a mile in advance, and bivouacked on some
rising ground above a slight hollow in which we found water.
The following morning was clear, and the mountain of Belignan, within
three or four miles, was a fine object to direct our course. I could
distinctly see some enormous trees at the foot of the mountain near a
village, and I hastened forward, as I hoped to procure a guide who
would also act as interpreter, many of the natives in the vicinity of
Gondokoro having learned a little Arabic from the traders. We cantered
on ahead of the party, regardless of the assurance of our unwilling men
that the natives were not to be trusted, and we soon arrived beneath
the shade of a cluster of most superb trees. The village was within a
quarter of a mile, situated at the very base of the abrupt mountain. The
natives seeing us alone had no fear, and soon thronged around us. The
chief understood a few words of Arabic, and I offered a large payment
of copper bracelets and beads for a guide. After much discussion and
bargaining a bad-looking fellow offered to guide us to Ellyria, but no
farther. This was about twenty-eight or thirty miles distant, and it was
of vital importance that we should pass through that tribe before
the trader's party should raise them against us. I had great hopes of
outmarching the trader's party, as they would be delayed in Belignan by
ivory transactions with the chief.
At that time the Turks were engaged in business transactions with the
natives; it was therefore all important that I should start immediately,
and by a forced march arrive at Ellyria and get through the pass before
they should communicate with the chief. I had no doubt that by paying
blackmail I should be able to clear Ellyria, provided I was in advance
of the Turks; but should they outmarch me, there would be no hope; a
fight and defeat would be the climax. I accordingly gave orders for
an IMMEDIATE start. "Load the camels, my brothers!" I exclaimed to the
sullen ruffians around me; but not a man stirred except Richarn and a
fellow named Sali, who began to show signs of improvement. Seeing that
the men intended to disobey, I immediately set to work myself loading
the animals, requesting my men not to trouble themselves, and begging
them to lie down and smoke their pipes while I did the work. A few
rose from the ground ashamed and assisted to load the camels, while the
others declared it an impossibility for camels to travel by the road
we were about to take, as the Turks had informed them that not even
the donkeys could march through the thick jungles between Belignan and
Ellyria.
"All right, my brothers!" I replied; "then we'll march as far as the
donkeys can go, and leave both them and the baggage on the road when
they can go no farther; but I GO FORWARD."
With sullen discontent the men began to strap on their belts and
cartouche boxes and prepare for the start. The animals were loaded, and
we moved slowly forward at 4.30 P.M. We had just started with the Bari
guide that I had engaged at Belignan, when we were suddenly joined by
two of the Latookas whom I had seen when at Gondokoro and to whom I
had been very civil. It appeared that these follows, who were acting as
porters to the Turks, had been beaten, and had therefore absconded and
joined me. This was extraordinary good fortune, as I now had guides the
whole way to Latooka, about ninety miles distant. I immediately gave
them each a copper bracelet and some beads, and they very good-naturedly
relieved the camels of one hundred pounds of copper rings, which they
carried in two baskets on their heads.
We now crossed the broad dry bed of a torrent, and the banks being steep
a considerable time was occupied in assisting the loaded animals in
their descent. The donkeys were easily aided, their tails being held
by two men while they shuffled and slid down the sandy banks; but every
camel fell, and the loads had to be carried up the opposite bank by the
men, and the camels reloaded on arrival. Here again the donkeys had the
advantage, as without being unloaded they were assisted up the steep
ascent by two men in front pulling at their ears, while others pushed
behind. Altogether the donkeys were far more suitable for the
country, as they were more easily loaded. The facility of loading is
all-important, and I now had an exemplification of its effect upon both
animals and men. The latter began to abuse the camels and to curse the
father of this and the mother of that because they had the trouble of
unloading them for the descent into the river's bed, while the donkeys
were blessed with the endearing name of "my brother," and alternately
whacked with the stick.
For some miles we passed through a magnificent forest of large trees.
The path being remarkably good, the march looked propitious. This good
fortune, however, was doomed to change. We shortly entered upon thick
thorny jungles. The path was so overgrown that the camels could scarcely
pass under the overhanging branches, and the leather bags of provisions
piled upon their backs were soon ripped by the hooked thorns of the
mimosa. The salt, rice, and coffee bags all sprang leaks, and small
streams of these important stores issued from the rents which the men
attempted to repair by stuffing dirty rags into the holes. These thorns
were shaped like fishhooks; thus it appeared that the perishable baggage
must soon become an utter wreck, as the great strength and weight of the
camels bore all before them, and sometimes tore the branches from the
trees, the thorns becoming fixed in the leather bags. Meanwhile the
donkeys walked along in comfort, being so short that they and their
loads were below the branches.
My wife and I rode about a quarter of a mile at the head of the party as
an advance guard, to warn the caravan of any difficulty. The very nature
of the country showed that it must be full of ravines, and yet I could
not help hoping against hope that we might have a clear mile of road
without a break. The evening had passed, and the light faded. What had
been difficult and tedious during the day now became most serious; we
could not see the branches of hooked thorns that over-hung the broken
path. I rode in advance, my face and arms bleeding with countless
scratches, while at each rip of a thorn I gave a warning shout--"Thorn!"
for those behind, and a cry of "Hole!" for any deep rut that lay in the
path. It was fortunately moonlight; but the jungle was so thick that the
narrow track was barely perceptible; thus both camels and donkeys ran
against the trunks of trees, smashing the luggage and breaking all that
could be broken. Nevertheless the case was urgent; march we must at all
hazards.
My heart sank whenever we cane to a deep ravine or hor; the warning
cry of "halt" told those in the rear that once more the camels must be
unloaded and the same fatiguing operation must be repeated. For hours we
marched; the moon was sinking; the path, already dark, grew darker; the
animals, overloaded even for a good road, were tired out, and the men
were disheartened, thirsty, and disgusted. Everything was tired out. I
had been working like a slave to assist and to cheer the men; I was also
fatigued. We had marched from 4.30 P.M--it was now 1 A.M.; we had thus
been eight hours and a half struggling along the path. The moon had
sunk, and the complete darkness rendered a further advance impossible;
therefore, on arrival at a large plateau of rock, I ordered the animals
to be unloaded and both man and beast to rest.
Every one lay down supperless to sleep. Although tired, I could not rest
until I had arranged some plan for the morrow. It was evident that
we could not travel over so rough a country with the animals thus
overloaded; I therefore determined to leave in the jungle such articles
as could be dispensed with, and to rearrange all the loads.
At 4 A.M. I awoke, and lighting a lamp I tried in vain to wake any of
the men, who lay stretched upon the ground like so many corpses, sound
asleep.
I threw away about 100 lbs. of salt, divided the heavy ammunition more
equally among the animals, rejected a quantity of odds and ends that,
although most useful, could be forsaken, and by the time the men awoke,
a little before sunrise, I had completed the work. We now reloaded the
animals, who showed the improvement by stepping out briskly. We marched
well for three hours at a pace that bade fair to keep us well ahead of
the Turks, and at length we reached the dry bed of a stream, where the
Latooka guides assured us we should obtain water by digging. This proved
correct; but the holes were dug deep in several places, and hours passed
before we could secure a sufficient supply for all the men and animals.
Ascending from this place about a mile we came to the valley of Tollogo.
We passed the night in a village of the friendly natives, and were off
again bright and early. On reaching the extremity of the valley we
had to thread our way through the difficult pass. Had the natives been
really hostile they could have exterminated us in five minutes, as it
was only necessary to hurl rocks from above to insure our immediate
destruction. It was in this spot that a trader's party of one hundred
and twenty-six men, well armed, had been massacred to a man the year
previous.
Bad as the pass was, we had hope before us, as the Latookas explained
that beyond this spot there was level and unbroken ground the whole way
to Latooka. Could we only clear Ellyria before the Turks, I had no fear
for the present; but at the very moment when success depended upon speed
we were thus baffled by the difficulties of the ground. I therefore
resolved to ride on in advance of my party, leaving them to overcome the
difficulties of the pass by constantly unloading the animals, while I
would reconnoitre in front, as Ellyria was not far distant. My wife
and I accordingly rode on, accompanied only by one of the Latookas as
a guide. After turning a sharp angle of the mountain, leaving the cliff
abruptly rising to the left from the narrow path, we descended a ravine
worse than any place we had previously encountered, and were obliged to
dismount in order to lead our horses up the steep rocks on the opposite
side. On arrival at the summit a lovely view burst upon us. The valley
of Ellyria was about four hundred feet below, at about a mile distant.
Beautiful mountains, some two or three thousand feet high, of gray
granite, walled in the narrow vale, while the landscape of forest and
plain was bounded at about fifty or sixty miles' distance to the east
by the blue mountains of Latooka. The mountain of Ellyria was the
commencement of the fine range that continued indefinitely to the south.
The whole country was a series of natural forts occupied by a large
population. A glance at the scene before me was quite sufficient. To
FIGHT a way through a valley a quarter of a mile wide, hemmed in by high
walls of rock and bristling with lances and arrows, would be impossible
with my few men, encumbered by transport animals. Should the camels
arrive I could march into Ellyria in twenty minutes, make the chief a
large present, and pass on without halting until I cleared the Ellyria
valley. At any rate I was well before the Turks, and the forced march
at night, however distressing, had been successful. The great difficulty
now lay in the ravine that we had just crossed; this would assuredly
delay the caravan for a considerable time.
Tying our horses to a bush, we sat upon a rock beneath the shade of a
small tree within ten paces of the path, and considered the best course
to pursue. I hardly liked to risk an advance into Ellyria alone before
the arrival of my whole party, as we had been very rudely received by
the Tollogo people on the previous evening; nevertheless I thought it
might be good policy to ride unattended into Ellyria, and thus to court
an introduction to the chief. However, our consultation ended in a
determination to wait where we then were until the caravan should have
accomplished the last difficulty by crossing the ravine, when we would
all march into Ellyria in company. For a long time we sat gazing at the
valley before us in which our fate lay hidden, feeling thankful that
we had thus checkmated the brutal Turks. Not a sound was heard of
our approaching camels; the delay was most irksome. There were many
difficult places that we had passed through, and each would be a source
of serious delay to the animals.
At length we heard them in the distance. We could distinctly hear
the men's voices, and we rejoiced that they were approaching the last
remaining obstacle; that one ravine passed through, and all before would
be easy. I heard the rattling of the stones as they drew nearer, and
looking toward the ravine I saw emerge from the dark foliage of the
trees within fifty yards of us the hated RED FLAG AND CRESCENT LEADING
THE TURK'S PARTY! We were outmarched!
One by one, with scowling looks, the insolent scoundrels filed by us
within a few feet, without making the customary salaam, neither noticing
us in any way, except by threatening to shoot the Latooka, our guide,
who had formerly accompanied them.
Their party consisted of a hundred and forty men armed with guns,
while about twice as many Latookas acted as porters, carrying beads,
ammunition, and the general effects of the party. It appeared that we
were hopelessly beaten.
However, I determined to advance at all hazards on the arrival of my
party, and should the Turks incite the Ellyria tribe to attack us, I
intended, in the event of a fight, to put the first shot through the
leader. To be thus beaten at the last moment was unendurable. Boiling
with indignation as the insolent wretches filed past, treating me with
the contempt of a dog, I longed for the moment of action, no matter what
were the odds against us. At length their leader, Ibrahim, appeared in
the rear of the party. He was riding on a donkey, being the last of the
line, behind the flag that closed the march.
I never saw a more atrocious countenance than that exhibited in this
man. A mixed breed, between a Turk sire and all Arab mother, he had
the good features and bad qualities of either race--the fine, sharp,
high-arched nose and large nostril, the pointed and projecting chin,
rather high cheek-bones and prominent brow, overhanging a pair of
immense black eyes full of expression of all evil. As he approached he
took no notice of us, but studiously looked straight before him with the
most determined insolence.
The fate of the expedition was at this critical moment retrieved by
Mrs. Baker. She implored me to call him, to insist upon a personal
explanation, and to offer him some present in the event of establishing
amicable relations. I could not condescend to address the sullen
scoundrel. He was in the act of passing us, and success depended upon
that instant. Mrs. Baker herself called him. For the moment he made no
reply; but upon my repeating the call in a loud key he turned his donkey
toward us and dismounted. I ordered him to sit down, as his men were
ahead and we were alone.
The following dialogue passed between us after the usual Arab mode of
greeting. I said: "Ibrahim, why should we be enemies in the midst of
this hostile country? We believe in the same God; why should we quarrel
in this land of heathens, who believe in no God? You have your work
to perform; I have mine. You want ivory; I am a simple traveller; why
should we clash? If I were offered the whole ivory of the country I
would not accept a single tusk, nor interfere with you in any way.
Transact your business, and don't interfere with me; the country is wide
enough for us both. I have a task before me, to reach a great lake--the
head of the Nile. Reach it I WILL(Inshallah). No power shall drive me
back. If you are hostile I will imprison you in Khartoum; if you assist
me I will reward you far beyond any reward you have ever received.
Should I be killed in this country, you will be suspected. You know
the result: the Government would hang you on the bare suspicion. On the
contrary, if you are friendly I will use my influence in any country
that I discover, that you may procure its ivory for the sake of your
master, Koorshid, who was generous to Captains Speke and Grant, and kind
to me. Should you be hostile, I shall hold your master responsible as
your employer. Should you assist me, I will befriend you both. Choose
your course frankly, like a man--friend or enemy?"
Before he had time to reply, Mrs. Baker addressed him much in the same
strain, telling him that he did not know what Englishmen were; that
nothing would drive them back; that the British Government watched over
them wherever they might be, and that no outrage could be committed with
impunity upon a British subject; that I would not deceive him in any
way; that I was not a trader; and that I should be able to assist him
materially by discovering new countries rich in ivory, and that he would
benefit himself personally by civil conduct.
He seemed confused, and wavered. I immediately promised him a new
double-barrelled gun and some gold when my party should arrive, as an
earnest of the future.
He replied that he did not himself wish to be hostile, but that all the
trading parties, without one exception, were against me, and that the
men were convinced that I was a consul in disguise, who would report
to the authorities at Khartoum all the proceedings of the traders. He
continued that he believed me, but that his men would not; that all
people told lies in their country, therefore no one was credited for the
truth. "However," said he, "do not associate with my people, or they may
insult you; but go and take possession of that large tree (pointing to
one in the valley of Ellyria) for yourself and people, and I will come
there and speak with you. I will now join my men, as I do not wish them
to know that I have been conversing with you." He then made a salaam,
mounted his donkey, and rode off.
I had won him. I knew the Arab character so thoroughly that I was
convinced that the tree he had pointed out, followed by the words, "I
will come there and speak to you," was to be the rendezvous for the
receipt of the promised gun and money.
I did not wait for the arrival of my men, but mounting our horses,
my wife and I rode down the hillside with lighter spirits than we had
enjoyed for some time past. I gave her the entire credit of the "ruse."
Had I been alone I should have been too proud to have sought the
friendship of the sullen trader, and the moment on which success
depended would leave been lost.
On arrival at the grassy plain at the foot of the mountain there was a
crowd of the trader's ruffians quarrelling for the shale of a few large
trees that grew on the banks of the stream. We accordingly dismounted,
and turning the horses to graze we took possession of a tree at some
distance, under which a number of Latookas were already sitting. Not
being very particular as to our society, we sat down and waited for the
arrival of our party.
The natives were entirely naked, and precisely the same as the Bari.
Their chief, Legge, was among them, and received a present from Ibrahim
of a long red cotton shirt, and he assumed an air of great importance.
Ibrahim explained to him who I was, and he immediately came to ask
for the tribute he expected to receive as "blackmail" for the right of
entree into his country. Of all the villainous countenances that I have
ever seen, that of Legge excelled. Ferocity, avarice, and sensuality
were stamped upon his face, and I immediately requested him to sit for
his portrait, and in about ten minutes I succeeded in placing within my
portfolio an exact likeness of about the greatest rascal that exists in
Central Africa.
I had now the satisfaction of seeing my caravan slowly winding down the
hillside in good order, having surmounted all their difficulties.
Upon arrival my men were perfectly astonished at seeing us so near the
trader's party, and still more confounded at my sending for Ibrahim
to summon him to my tree, where I presented him with some English
sovereigns and a double-barrelled gun. Nothing escapes the
inquisitiveness of these Arabs; and the men of both parties quickly
perceived that I had established an alliance in some unaccountable
manner with Ibrahim. I saw the gun lately presented to him being handed
from one to the other for examination, and both my vakeel and men
appeared utterly confused at the sudden change.
The chief of Ellyria now came to inspect my luggage, and demanded
fifteen heavy copper bracelets and a large quantity of beads. The
bracelets most in demand are simple rings of copper five-eighths of an
inch thick and weighing about a pound, smaller ones not being so much
valued. I gave him fifteen such rings, and about ten pounds of beads in
varieties, the red coral porcelain (dimiriaf) being the most acceptable.
Legge was by no means satisfied; he said his belly was very big and it
must be filled, which signified that his desire was great and must be
gratified. I accordingly gave him a few extra copper rings; but suddenly
he smelt spirits, one of the few bottles that I possessed of spirits of
wine having broken in the medicine chest. Ibrahim begged me to give him
a bottle to put him in a good humor, as he enjoyed nothing so much as
araki. I accordingly gave him a pint bottle of the strongest spirits of
wine.
To my amazement he broke off the neck, and holding his head well back
he deliberately allowed the whole of the contents to trickle down
his throat as innocently as though it had been simple water. He was
thoroughly accustomed to it, as the traders were in the habit of
bringing him presents of araki every season. He declared this to be
excellent, and demanded another bottle. At that moment a violent storm
of thunder and rain burst upon us with a fury well known in the tropics.
The rain fell like a waterspout, and the throng immediately fled for
shelter. So violent was the storm that not a man was to be seen; some
sheltered themselves under the neighboring rocks, while others ran
to their villages that were close by. The trader's people commenced a
fusillade, firing off all their guns lest they should get wet and miss
fire.