Auf wiederschen, and not Lebewohl, we said to pleasant Friedrichshafen,
as the little steamer left those kindly green shores and we sailed away,
not for a year and a day, like the owl and the pussy cat in the
beautiful pea-green boat, but for an hour or so only. There were many
curious people to watch on board, but the most monopolizing sight was
two Catholic priests devouring a chicken, or rather devouring
_chickens_. They had, on the seat between them, a basket large enough
for a flock of Huehnchen--boiled, dissected, and only too tempting to
the priestly appetite--to repose in. And they had the lake as a
receptacle for the bones. What more could they desire? If we could have
suggested anything it would have been--napkins, because it was requiring
too much work of their fingers to use them as knives and forks, and then
to wipe their mouths on them. The zeal with which the holy men tore the
tender meat from the bones and showered the remnants in the water, and
particularly the endurance they exhibited, made us hope they evinced as
much fervor and devotion in caring for their human flocks.
To Lindau then we came, having, as we approached, charming mountain
scenery. The town is on an island, connected with the mainland by an
embankment and railway bridge. It is a little place, but very striking
as you look at it from the water, having a lofty monument (a statue in
bronze of Maximilian II.), a picturesque old Roman tower, and, at the
entrance of the harbor, a fine lighthouse, and a great marble lion on a
high pedestal, guarding the little haven and his Bavarian land. We
remained part of a day here, having before our eyes a beautiful
picture,--the mountains of Switzerland directly across the lake, narrow
at this point, with the lighthouse and the proud, ever-watchful Bavarian
lion rising, bold and sentinel-like, in the foreground. You look between
these two over the placid water to the heights beyond.
From Lindau we sailed to Bregenz, where the lake and mountains have
quite another expression. It would be difficult to say which is the most
attractive place on the Bodensee. You feel "How happy could I be with
either, were t'other dear charmer away," and it is of course a question
of individual taste. One person prefers the mountains near, another
watches them lovingly from a distance. One likes to live on low land by
the water's edge, and look up to the mountain-tops; another perches
himself high, and finds his happiness in looking down upon the lake and
off to other heights. But the shores are lovely everywhere, much
frequented yet quiet, crowded with villas, private cottages, hotels, yet
secluded and restful if one chooses.
Bregenz is a quiet place, a real country-place, with mountain views and
mountain excursions without end. The common people have intelligent,
happy faces, pleasant, cheerful ways, quickness of repartee, and
civility. The women give you a smiling "Gruess Gott." The commonest man
takes off his hat as you pass, and if you go by a group of rollicking
school-boys every hat comes off courteously.
Gebhardsberg is the first place to which people usually go from Bregenz.
We went, as in duty bound. It is a mountain--a castle--a pilgrimage
church--a view; and to say that one commands a view of the entire lake,
the valley of the Bregenzer Ach and the Rhine, the Alps, the snow
mountains of Appenzel and Glarus, with mountains covered with pine
forests in the foreground, conveys a very faint idea of the beauty
before our eyes. In the visitors' book in the tower were some German
rhymes, which, roughly translated, go somewhat in this way:--
"Charming prospect, best of wine,
Be joyful, then, O heart of mine;
Farewell, thou lovely Gebhard's hill,
Thou Bodensee, so fair, so still."
And more still about wine, for this is not the land of the Woman's
Crusade, it appears:--
"It makes you glad to drink good wine,
And praying makes life more divine.
If you would be both good and gay,
Pray well and drink well every day."