While I studied the points of the stranger, breathless lest he should

disappear before my eyes, he suddenly burst out with the strange call I

had heard. It was clearly a cry of joy, of welcome, for out of the

water, up on to the ledge beside him, scrambled at that moment a

grown-up ouzel. He gave one poke into the wide-open mouth of the infant,

then slipped back into the water, dropped down a foot or more, climbed

out upon another little shelf in the rock, and in a moment the song

arose. I watched the singer closely. The notes were so low and so

mingled with the roar of the brook that even then I should not have been

certain he was uttering them if I had not seen his throat and mouth

distinctly. The song was really exquisite, and as much in harmony with

the melody of the stream as the voice of the English sparrow is with the

city sounds among which he dwells, and the plaintive refrain of the

meadow-lark with the low-lying, silent fields where he spends his days.

But little cared baby ouzel for music, however ravishing. What to his

mind was far more important was food,--in short, worms. His pretty

begging continued, and the daring notion of attempting a perilous

journey over the foot of water that separated him from his papa plainly

entered his head. He hurried back and forth on the brink with growing

agitation, and was seemingly about to plunge in, when the singer again

entered the water, brought up another morsel, and then stood on the

ledge beside the eager youngling, "dipping" occasionally himself, and

showing every time he winked--as did the little one, also--snowy-white

eyelids, in strange contrast to the dark slate-colored plumage.

This aesthetic manner of discharging family duties, alternating food for

the body with rapture of the soul, continued for some time, probably

until the young bird had as much as was good for him; and then supplies

were cut off by the peremptory disappearance of the purveyor, who

plunged with the brook over the edge of a rock, and was seen no more.

A little later a grown bird appeared, that I supposed at first was the

returning papa, but a few moments' observation convinced me that it was

the mother; partly because no song accompanied the work, but more

because of the entirely different manners of the new-comer. Filling the

crop of that importunate offspring of hers was, with this Quaker-dressed

dame, a serious business that left no time for rest or recreation. Two

charmed hours I sat absorbed, watching the most wonderful evolutions one

could believe possible to a creature in feathers.

At the point where this little drama was enacted, the brook rushed over

a line of pebbles stretching from bank to bank, lying at all angles and

of all sizes, from six to ten inches in diameter. Then it ran five or

six feet quietly, around smooth rocks here and there above the water,

and ended by plunging over a mass of bowlders to a lower level. The bird

began by mounting one of those slippery rounded stones, and thrusting

her head under water up to her shoulders. Holding it there a few

seconds, apparently looking for something, she then jumped in where the

turmoil was maddest, picked an object from the bottom, and, returning to

the ledge, gave it to baby.

The next moment, before I had recovered from my astonishment at this

feat of the ouzel, she ran directly up the falls (which, though not

high, were exceedingly lively), being half the time entirely under

water, and exactly as much at her ease as if no water were there; though

how she could stand in the rapid current, not to speak of walking

straight up against it, I could not understand.

Often she threw herself into the stream, and let it carry her down, like

a duck, a foot or two, while she looked intently on the bottom, then

simply walked up out of it on to a stone. I could see that her plumage

was not in the least wet; a drop or two often rested on her back when

she came out, but it rolled off in a moment. She never even shook

herself. The food she brought to that eager youngling every few minutes

looked like minute worms, doubtless some insect larvae.

Several times this hard-working mother plunged into the brook where it

was shallow, ran or walked down it, half under water, and stopped on the

very brink of the lower fall, where one would think she could not even

stand, much less turn back and run up stream, which she did freely. This

looked to me almost as difficult as for a man to stand on the brink of

Niagara, with the water roaring and tumbling around him. Now and then

the bird ran or flew up, against the current, and entirely under water,

so that I could see her only as a dark-colored moving object, and then

came out all fresh and dry beside the baby, with a mouthful of food. I

should hardly dare to tell this, for fear of raising doubts of my

accuracy, if the same thing had not been seen and reported by others

before me. Her crowning action was to stand with one foot on each of two

stones in the middle and most uproarious part of the little fall, lean

far over, and deliberately pick something from a third stone.

All this was no show performance, even no frolic, on the part of the

ouzel,--it was simply her every-day manner of providing for the needs of

that infant; and when she considered the duty discharged for the time,

she took her departure, very probably going at once to the care of a

second youngster who awaited her coming in some other niche in the

rocks.

Finding himself alone again, and no more dainties coming his way, the

young dipper turned for entertainment to the swift-running streamlet. He

went down to the edge, stepping easily, never hopping; but when the

shallow edge of the water ran over his pretty white toes, he hastily

scampered back, as if afraid to venture farther. The clever little rogue

was only coquetting, however, for when he did at last plunge in he

showed himself very much at home. He easily crossed a turbulent bit of

the brook, and when he was carried down a little he scrambled without

trouble up on a stone. All the time, too, he was peering about after

food; and in fact it was plain that his begging was a mere pretense,--he

was perfectly well able to look out for himself. Through the whole of

these scenes not one of the birds, old or young, had paid the slightest

attention to me, though I was not ten feet from them.

During the time I had been so absorbed in my delightful study of

domestic life in the ouzel family, the other interesting resident of the

canyon--the elusive canyon wren--had been forgotten. Now, as I noticed

that the day was waning, I thought of him again, and, tearing myself

away from the enticing picture, leaving the pretty baby to his own

amusements, I returned to the famous Pillars, and planted myself before

my rock, resolved to stay there till the bird appeared.

No note came to encourage me, but, gazing steadily upward, after a time

I noticed something that looked like a fly running along the wall.

Bringing my glass to my eyes, I found that it was a bird, and one of the

white-throated family I so longed to see. She--for her silence and her

ways proclaimed her sex--was running about where appeared to be nothing

but perpendicular rock, flirting her tail after the manner of her race,

as happy and as unconcerned as if several thousand feet of sheer cliff

did not stretch between her and the brook at its foot. Her movements

were jerky and wren-like, and every few minutes she flitted into a tiny

crevice that seemed, from my point of view, hardly large enough to admit

even her minute form. She was dressed like the sweet singer of

yesterday, and the door she entered so familiarly was the same I had

seen him interested in. I guessed that she was his mate.

The bird seemed to be gathering from the rock something which she

constantly carried into the hole. Possibly there were nestlings in that

snug and inaccessible home. To discover if my conjectures were true, I

redoubled my vigilance, though it was neck-breaking work, for so narrow

was the canyon at that point that I could not get far enough away for a

more level view.

Sometimes the bustling little wren flew to the top of the wall, about

twenty feet above her front door, as it looked to me (it may have been

ten times that). Over the edge she instantly disappeared, but in a few

minutes returned to her occupation on the rock. Upon the earth beneath

her sky parlor she seemed never to turn her eyes, and I began to fear

that I should get no nearer view of the shy cliff-dweller.

Finally, however, the caprice seized the tantalizing creature of

descending to the level of mortals, and the brook. Suddenly, while I

looked, she flung herself off her perch, and fell--down--down--down--

disappearing at last behind a clump of weeds at the bottom. Was she

killed? Had she been shot by some noiseless air-gun? What had become

of the tiny wren? I sprang to my feet, and hurried as near as the

intervening stream would allow, when lo! there she was, lively and fussy

as ever, running about at the foot of the cliff, searching, searching

all the time, ever and anon jumping up and pulling from the rock

something that clung to it.

When the industrious bird had filled her beak with material that stuck

out on both sides, which I concluded to be some kind of rock moss, she

started back. Not up the face of that blank wall, loaded as she was,

but by a strange path that she knew well, up which I watched her wending

her way to her proper level. This was a cleft between two solid bodies

of rock, where, it would seem, the two walls, in settling together for

their lifelong union, had broken and crumbled, and formed between them a

sort of crack, filled with unattached bowlders, with crevices and

passages, sometimes perpendicular, sometimes horizontal. Around and

through these was a zigzag road to the top, evidently as familiar to

that atom of a bird as Broadway is to some of her fellow-creatures, and

more easily traversed, for she had it all to herself.

The wren flew about three feet to the first step of her upward passage,

then ran and clambered nearly all the rest of the way, darting behind

jutting rocks and coming out the other side, occasionally flying a foot

or two; now pausing as if for an observation, jerking her tail upright

and letting it drop back, wren-fashion, then starting afresh, and so

going on till she reached the level of her nest, when she flew across

the (apparent) forty or fifty feet, directly into the crevice. In a

minute she came out, and without an instant's pause flung herself down

again.

I watched this curious process very closely. The wren seemed to close

her wings; certainly she did not use them, nor were they in the least

spread that I could detect. She came to the ground as if she were a

stone, as quickly and as directly as a stone would have fallen; but just

before touching the ground she spread her wings, and alighted lightly on

her feet. Then she fell to her labor of collecting what I suppose was

nesting material, and in a few minutes started up again by the

roundabout road to the top. Two hours or more, with gradually stiffening

neck, I spent with the wren, while she worked constantly and silently,

and not once during all that time did the singer appear.

What the scattering parties of tourists, who from time to time passed

me, thought of a silent personage sitting in the canyon alone, staring

intently up at a blank wall of rock, I did not inquire. Perhaps that she

was a verse-writer seeking inspiration; more likely, however, a harmless

lunatic musing over her own fancies.

I know well what I thought of them, from the glimpses that came to me as

I sat there; some climbing over the sharp-edged rocks, in tight boots,

delicate kid gloves, and immaculate traveling costumes, and panting for

breath in the seven thousand feet altitude; others uncomfortably seated

on the backs of the scraggy little burros, one of whom was so interested

in my proceedings that he walked directly up and thrust his long,

inquiring ears into my very face, spite of the resistance of his rider,

forcing me to rise and decline closer acquaintance. One of the

melancholy procession was loaded with a heavy camera, another equipped

with a butterfly net; this one bent under the weight of a big basket of

luncheon, and that one was burdened with satchels and wraps and

umbrellas. All were laboriously trying to enjoy themselves, but not one

lingered to look at the wonder and the beauty of the surroundings. I

pitied them, one and all, feeling obliged, as no doubt they did, to "see

the sights;" tramping the lovely canyon to-day, glancing neither to right

nor left; whirling through the Garden of the Gods to-morrow; painfully

climbing the next day the burro track to the Grave, the sacred point

where

"Upon the wind-blown mountain spot

Chosen and loved as best by her,

Watched over by near sun and star,

Encompassed by wide skies, she sleeps."

Alas that one cannot quote with truth the remaining lines!

"And not one jarring murmur creeps

Up from the plain her rest to mar."

For now, at the end of the toilsome passage, that place which should be

sacred to loving memories and tender thoughts, is desecrated by placards

and picnickers, defaced by advertisements, strewn with the

wrapping-paper, tin cans, and bottles with which the modern

globe-trotter marks his path through the beautiful and sacred scenes in

nature.[1]

In this uncomfortable way the majority of summer tourists spend day

after day, and week after week; going home tired out, with no new idea

gained, but happy to be able to say they have been here and there,

beheld this canyon, dined on that mountain, drank champagne in such a

pass, and struggled for breath on top of "the Peak." Their eyes may

indeed have passed over these scenes, but they have not _seen_ one

thing.

Far wiser is he (and more especially she) who seeks out a corner obscure

enough to escape the eyes of the "procession," settles himself in it,

and spends fruitful and delightful days alone with nature; never hasting

nor rushing; seeing and studying the wonders at hand, but avoiding

"parties" and "excursions;" valuing more a thorough knowledge of one

canyon than a glimpse of fifty; caring more to appreciate the beauties of

one mountain than to scramble over a whole range; getting into such

perfect harmony with nature that it is as if he had come into possession

of a new life; and from such an experience returning to his home

refreshed and invigorated in mind and body.

Such were my reflections as the sun went down, and I felt, as I passed

out through the gate, that I ought to double my entrance fee, so much

had my life been enriched by that perfect day alone in Cheyenne Canyon.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: Since the above was written, I am glad to learn that,

because of this vandalism, the remains of "H. H." have been removed to

the cemetery at Colorado Springs.]

IN THE MIDDLE COUNTRY.

For all the woods are shrill with stress of song,

Where soft wings flutter down to new-built nests,

And turbulent sweet sounds are heard day long,

As of innumerable marriage feasts.

CHARLES LOTIN HILDRETH.

VIII.

AT FOUR O'CLOCK IN THE MORNING.

Four o'clock in the morning is the magical hour of the day. I do not

offer this sentiment as original, nor have I the slightest hope of

converting any one to my opinion; I merely state the fact.

For years I had known it perfectly well; and fortified by my knowledge,

and bristling with good resolutions, I went out every June determined to

rise at that unnatural hour. Nothing is easier than to get up at four

o'clock--the night before; but when morning comes, the point of view is

changed, and all the arguments that arise in the mind are on the other

side; sleep is the one thing desirable. The case appeared hopeless.

Appeals from Philip drunk (with sleep) to Philip sober did not seem to

avail; for whatever the latter decreed, the former would surely disobey.

But last June I found my spur; last summer I learned to get up with

eagerness, and stay up with delight. This was effected by means of an

alarm, set by the evening's wakefulness, that had no mercy on the

morning's sleepiness. The secret is--a present interest. What may be

going on somewhere out of sight and hearing in the world is a matter of

perfect indifference; what is heard and seen at the moment is an

argument that no one can resist.

I got my hint by the accident of some shelled corn being left on the

ground before my window, and so attracting a four o'clock party,

consisting of blackbirds, blue jays, and doves. I noticed the corn, but

did not think of the pleasure it would give me, until the next morning,

when I was awakened about four o'clock by loud and excited talk in

blackbird tones, and hurried to the window, to find that I had half the

birds of the neighborhood before me.

Most in number, and most noisy, were the common blackbirds, who just at

that time were feeding their young in a grove of evergreens back of the

house, where they had set up their nurseries in a crowd, as is their

custom. It is impossible to take this bird seriously, he is so

irresistibly ludicrous. His manners always suggest to me the peculiar

drollery of the negro; one of the old-fashioned sort, as we read of him,

and I promised myself some amusement from the study of him at short

range; I was not disappointed.

My greeting as I took my seat at the open window, unfortunately without

blinds to screen me, was most comical. A big pompous fellow turned his

wicked-looking white eye upon me, drew himself into a queer humped-up

position, with all his feathers on end, and apparently by a strong

effort _squeezed_ out a husky and squeaky, yet loud cry of two notes,

which sounded exactly like "Squee-gee!"

I was so astounded that I laughed in his face; at which he repeated it

with added emphasis, then turned his back on me, as unworthy of notice

away up in my window, and gave his undivided attention to a specially

large grain of corn which had been unearthed by a meek-looking neighbor,

and appropriated by him, in the most lordly manner. His bearing at the

moment was superb and stately in a degree of which only a bird who walks

is capable; one cannot be dignified who is obliged to hop.

I thought his greeting was a personal one to show contempt--which it did

emphatically--to the human race in general, and to me in particular, but

I found later that it was the ordinary blackbird way of being offensive;

it was equivalent to "Get out!" or "Shut up!" or some other of the curt

and rude expressions in use by bigger folk than blackbirds.

If a bird alighted too near one of these arrogant fellows on the ground,

he was met with the same expletive, and if he was about the same size

he "talked back." The number and variety of utterances at their command

was astonishing; I was always being surprised with a new one. Now a

blackbird would fly across the lawn, making a noise exactly like a boy's

tin trumpet, and repeating it as long as he was within hearing,

regarding it, seemingly, as an exceptionally great feat. Again one would

seize a kernel of corn, burst out with a convulsive cry, as if he were

choking to death, and fly off with his prize, in imminent danger of his

life, as I could not but feel.

The second morning a youngster came with his papa to the feast, and he

was droller, if possible, than his elders. He followed his parent

around, with head lowered and mouth wide open, fairly bawling in a loud

yet husky tone.

The young blackbird does not appear in the glossy suit of his parents.

His coat is rusty in hue, and his eye is dark, as is proper in youth. He

is not at all backward in speaking his mind, and his sole desire at this

period of his life being food, he demands it with an energy and

persistence that usually insures success.

In making close acquaintance with them, one cannot help longing to

prescribe to the whole blackbird family something to clear their

bronchial tubes; every tone is husky, and the student involuntarily

clears his own throat as he listens.

I was surprised to find the blackbirds so beautiful. When the sun was

near setting, and struck across the grass its level rays, they were

really exquisite; their heads a brilliant metallic blue, and all back of

that rich bronze or purple, all over as glossy as satin. The little

dames are somewhat smaller, and a shade less finely dressed than their

bumptious mates; but that does not make them meek--far from it! and they

are not behind their partners in eccentric freaks. Sometimes one would

apparently attempt a joke by starting to fly, and passing so near the

head of one of the dignitaries on the ground that he would involuntarily

start and "duck" ingloriously. On one occasion a pair were working

peaceably together at the corn, when she flirted a bit of dirt so that

it flew toward him. He dashed furiously at her. She gave one hop which

took her about a foot away, and then it appeared that she coveted a

kernel of corn that was near him when the offense was given, for she

instantly jumped back and pounced upon it as if she expected to be

annihilated. He ran after her and drove her off, but she kept her prize.

Eating one of those hard grains was no joke to anybody without teeth,

and it was a serious affair to one of the blackbirds. He took it into

his beak, dropped both head and tail, and gave his mind to the cracking

of the sweet morsel. At this time he particularly disliked to be

disturbed, and the only time I saw one rude to a youngster was when

struggling with this difficulty. While feeding the nestlings, they broke

the kernels into bits, picked up all the pieces, filling the beak the

whole length, and then flew off with them.

But they were not always allowed to keep the whole kernel. They were

generally attended while on the ground by a little party of thieves,

ready and waiting to snatch any morsel that was dropped. These were, of

course, the English sparrows. They could not break corn, but they liked

it for all that, so they used their wits to secure it, and of sharpness

these street birds have no lack. The moment a blackbird alighted on the

grass, a sparrow or two came down beside him, and lingered around,

watching eagerly. Whenever a crumb dropped, one rushed in and snatched

it, and instantly flew from the wrath to come.

The sparrows had not been at this long before some of the wise

blackbirds saw through it, and resented it with proper spirit. One of

them would turn savagely after the sparrow who followed him, and the

knowing rascal always took his departure. It was amusing to see a

blackbird working seriously on a grain, all his faculties absorbed in

the solemn question whether he should succeed in cracking his nut, while

two or three feathered pilferers stood as near as they dared, anxiously

waiting till the great work should be accomplished, the hard shell

should yield, and some bits should fall.

About five days after the feast was spread, the young came out in force,

often two of them following one adult about on the grass, running after

him so closely that he could hardly get a chance to break up the kernel;

indeed, he often had to fly to a tree to prepare the mouthfuls for them.

The young blackbird has not the slightest repose of manner; nor, for

that matter, has the old one either. The grown-ups treated the young

well, almost always; they never "squee-gee'd" at them, never touched

them in any way, notwithstanding they were so insistent in begging that

they would chase an adult bird across the grass, calling madly all the

time, and fairly force him to fly away to get rid of them.

Once two young ones got possession of the only spot where corn was left,

and so tormented their elders who came that they had to dash in and

snatch a kernel when they wanted one. One of the old ones danced around

these two babies in a little circle a foot in diameter, the infants

turning as he moved, and ever presenting open beaks to him. It was one

of the funniest exhibitions I ever saw. After going around half a dozen

times, the baffled blackbird flew away without a taste.

When the two had driven every one else off the ground by their

importunities, one of them plucked up spirit to try managing the corn

for himself. Like a little man he stopped bawling, and began exercising

his strength on the sweet grain. Upon this his neighbor, instead of

following his example, began to beg of him! fluttering his wings,

putting up his beak, and almost pulling the corn out of the mouth of the

poor little fellow struggling with his first kernel!

Sometimes a young one drove his parent all over a tree with his

supplications. Higher and higher would go the persecuted, with his

tormentor scrambling, and half flying after, till the elder absolutely

flew away, much put out.

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