CHAPTER VII

ARTISTS AS SIGN-PAINTERS

“Ou il n’y a pas d’église je regarde les enseignes.”

VICTOR HUGO.

Good old Diderot, who to-day sits so peacefully in his armchair of

bronze on the Boulevard Saint-Germain and observes with philosophical

calm the restless stream of Parisian life passing him by day and

night, was once a severe critic. We might call him the father of

critics, since he reviewed the first French Art Exhibition arranged in

the Salon carré of the Louvre. From this salon the modern French

Expositions in Paris derive their name, although they have grown into

bewildering labyrinths of art and have long ago lost the intimacy and

elegance inherent in a salon. When Diderot intended to hurt the

feelings of an exhibiting artist, he used to call him a “peintre

d’enseigne,” and he was cruel enough to use this term rather

frequently with those painters “qui ne se servent de la brosse que

pour salir la toile.” In the famous encyclopædia which, together with

d’Alembert, he edited in 1779, and which brought them the honorary

title of “Encyclopédistes,” he gives two definitions of the French

word for sign, “enseigne”: first, a flag; and second, condescendingly,

“petit tableau pendu à une boutique.” As we see, the great critic did

not appreciate sign-painters and their works very highly; and in this

respect he only shared the general opinion of the public, which liked

to poke fun at these “artistes en plein vent.”

Charlet, who usually celebrates in his lithographs the soldiers of the

great Napoleon, is the author of an amusing cartoon on our poor

sign-painters. “J’aime la couleur” is the title of the spirituel

design which leaves us in doubt which color the sign-artist really

prefers--the red on his large palette or the red of the wine in the

glass he is holding.

In similar vein Hogarth represents him as a poor devil in rags and as

a conceited fellow evidently very proud of his mediocre work. Like his

French colleague he loves a drink in this cold, windy business of his;

at least the round bottle hanging on the frame of the signboard

contains to our mind, not varnish, but something in the Scotch

whiskey line.

To the “Musée de la rue” his immortal works were dedicated, said a

malicious Frenchman; but after all, was this really so degrading at a

time when excellent artists did not hesitate to exhibit their work in

the open street? Monsieur Georges Cain, the director of the Carnavalet

Museum, who knows all the “Coins de Paris” so well and with whom it is

so entertaining to promenade “à travers Paris,” tells us that in the

days before the Revolution the young artists who were not yet members

of the official academies used to show their paintings on the Place

Dauphine, once situated behind the Palais de Justice. If Jupiter

Pluvius did not interfere, the exhibition was arranged on the day of

the “petite Fête-Dieu.” Great linen sheets were pinned over the

shop-windows and formed the background for paintings of such eminent

artists as Oudry, Boucher, Nattier, or Chardin, works of art which

to-day are considered treasures of the Louvre, as “La Raie,” exhibited

by Chardin for the first time in 1728 in this museum of the street.

“Quel joli spectacle,” says Cain in his “Coins de Paris,” “devaient

offrir la place Dauphine, les façades roses des deux maisons

d’angle et le vieux Pont-Neuf--décor exquis, pittoresque et

charmeur--encombrés d’amateurs, de badauds, de critiques, de belles

dames, d’artistes, d’aimables modèles en claire toilette, se pressant

affairés, babillards, enthousiastes, joyeux, par une douce matinée de

mai, devant les toiles fraîches écloses des Petits Exposants de la

Place Dauphine!”

Our respect for the “artistes en plein vent” can but increase, when we

hear that three famous painters have begun their career with the

composition of a sign: Holbein, Prud’hon, and Chardin. All kinds of

tavern anecdotes are in circulation regarding Holbein, who was rather

a gay bird in his youth. According to one of them he once got so tired

of painting the decoration of a tavern room that he concluded to

deceive the landlord, watching eagerly his work, by counterfeiting

himself standing on a scaffold before the wall busily engaged in his

work. Thus he was able to skip out and have a good time in another

tavern, while the good landlord, every time he looked through the

door, was pleased to see him ever diligently working. One of

Holbein’s earliest works was a sign for a pedagogue representing a

schoolroom; this is still preserved in the Museum at Basle.

Who would have thought that Prud’hon--the artist who dwelled in

romantic dreams, and whose wonderful creation of Psyche, borne away by

loving wind-gods, lives on, a pleasant fancy in our minds--had begun

his artistic career by painting a sign for a hatter in his native

town? This, we suppose, was the first and last time that he painted

such an unpoetical thing as a hat. Like Holbein he was just fourteen

years old at the time when he produced this picture, which likewise

has come down to us; at least it still existed when the École des

Beaux-Arts in Paris arranged a Prud’hon Exhibition in 1874.

The third great artist who gained his first success by means of a sign

was Chardin. A friend of his father, a surgeon, who did not disdain to

play the barber as a side issue had given him the order. It was not

unusual for doctors to hang out a pretty sign; if they were poetically

inclined, they ventured a little rhyme on it, as shown by this Dutch

example:--

“Den Chirurgijn

Vermindert de pijn

Door Gods Genade.”

For this respect the barber and hair-dressing artists showed no less

talent, as this French verse will sufficiently prove:--

“La Nature donne barbe et cheveux

Et moi, je les coupe tous les deux.”

Well, our “chirurgien-barbier” followed the general custom of his time

and ordered a sign. Naturally he expected Chardin to paint on it all

his knives, his trepan, and other instruments of torture, and was not

a little surprised to find something very different. The proportions

of the signboard, which was very long, twelve feet long by three feet

high, had suggested to the young artist an animated composition which

he styled “les suites d’un duel dans la rue” and for which all the

members of his family had been obliged to pose as models. Only one

part of the picture, where the wounded was carried to a surgeon’s

office, referred to the business of his father’s friend. Fearing,

therefore, a possible objection on his part, the artist took the

precaution to fasten the sign in the night to the doctor’s house, who

was awakened in the morning by a big crowd assembled before it,

evidently admiring the chef d’Œuvre. Unfortunately this early work

of Chardin’s no longer exists. His paintings, so much more serious and

solid than the frivolities of Boucher and Lancret, the idols of the

public of his time, have only recently, in our democratic times,

received fully the appreciation they deserve.

But the most famous of signs painted by a great artist is without

doubt the one which Watteau, in 1720, shortly before his death, made

for the art dealer Gersaint, in three days, “to limber up his stiff

old fingers.” It is one of the most beautiful things Watteau ever

produced and is now in the possession of the German Kaiser. French

critics, however, think that it was executed by a pupil, from the

original sketch of the master, which has been found and which shows

more “loose qualities,” to use an artist’s term. However that may be,

the picture that Frederic the Great purchased through his art agent in

Paris is a beauty. A good friend of Watteau’s, a Monsieur de Julienne,

the first possessor of the sign, and owner of another painted by

Watteau for Gersaint’s art shop, entitled “Vertumnus and Pomona,” was

very proud of this new possession, as we might judge from the fact

that he asked the engraver Aveline to engrave it with this

inscription:--

“Watteau, dans cette enseigne à la fleur de ses ans

Des Maîstres de son art imite la manière;

Leurs caractères différens,

Leurs touches et leur goût composent la matière

De ces esquisses élégans.”

These words refer to a picture gallery in Gersaint’s shop which

Watteau carefully reproduces in the sign, but which to our modern eyes

is less fascinating than the elegant customers, ladies and gentlemen,

and the amusing eagerness and enthusiasm of these aristocratic

connoisseurs.

Another sign by Watteau, the loss of which we have to deplore, was the

property of a “marchande de modes.” No doubt it tempted many a

“Parisienne” to buy rather more of the charming Watteau costumes than

were strictly necessary.

A modern French artist who sometimes has been honored with the name

“Watteau Montmartrois,” the illustrator Willette, has produced in our

days the sign for the famous cabaret, the “Chat Noir” prototype of

all cabarets in France and elsewhere. Two other signs by his

master-hand, “À l’image de Notre Dame” and “À Bonaparte,” may still be

seen in Paris on the Quai Voltaire and on the corner of the Rue

Bonaparte and the Rue de l’Abbaie.

Other great French artists have painted signs occasionally: Greuze did

the “Enseigne du Huron” for a tobacco merchant--which may remind us of

the wooden Indian, guarding similar American shops in the old days;

Carle Vernet and his son Horace Vernet; Géricault, the great

sportsman, whose career as an artist was cut short by a violent fall

from a horse, is the author of the “Cheval blanc,” which once adorned

a tavern in the neighborhood of Paris; Gavarni, the great

lithographer, painted a sign, “Aux deux Pierrots,” and drew it later

on stone; Carolus Duran’s “enseigne brossée vigoureusement sur une

plaque légèrement courbée” was first exhibited in the Salon de la

Société Nationale before it was placed over the door of a

fencing-school; and many others.

Among the French sculptors Jean Goujon, perhaps the greatest of them,

the creator of the Fontaine des Innocents in Paris and its charmingly

graceful figures, is mentioned as the author of a sign, “La chaste

Suzanne,” which once embellished a house in the Rue aux Fêves. To-day

a plaster cast has been substituted for the original, bought by an art

collector. In the old streets of Paris we may still discover here and

there sculptured signs of artistic charm, such as “La Fontaine de

Jouvence” in the Rue de Four Saint-Germain, 67, and the fine relief of

the “Soleil d’or” in the Rue Saint-Sauveur. The little Bacchus riding

so gayly on a cask, who once decorated the “Cabaret du Lapin blanc,”

spends to-day a rather dull existence, together with other retired

colleagues of his, in the Musée Carnavalet. Our little “Rémouleur,”

from the Rue des Nonains d’Hyères, who does not fail to amply moisten

his grindstone, is not only a suggestive symbol, but in his dainty

rococo dress a very amusing piece of sculpture.

We cannot end our chat on signs by French artists without mentioning

the name of Victor Hugo, to whom we owe so much information about the

wealth of signs that still existed at his time in France and the

countries bordering on the Rhine. He was himself a clever draughtsman

and occasionally sketched “des dessins aux enseignes enchevêtrées,”

reminiscences of the real signs he used to admire on his wanderings.

The following quotation may show how great was his love for signs: “À

Rhinfelden, les exubérantes enseignes d’auberge m’ont occupé comme

des cathédrales; et j’ai l’esprit fait ainsi, qu’ à de certains

moments un étang de village, clair comme un miroir d’acier, entouré de

chaumières et traversé par une flotille de canards me régale autant

que le lac de Genève.”

[Illustration: Enseigne du Rémouleur·Paris]

Among the great Dutch masters Paulus Potter, Albert Cuyp, and

Wouwerman are cited as occasional sign-painters. Even Potter’s famous

“Jonge Stier” in The Hague is claimed as a butcher’s sign. It would

perhaps seem like doing too much honor to the art of sign-painting if

we numbered this remarkable work of the twenty-two-year-old artist

among them. And what beautiful white horses, bathed in mellow

sunlight, Cuyp may have painted for the “Rössle” taverns! Another

Dutch artist, Laurens van der Vinne (1629-1702), is even called the

Raphael among sign-painters. We do not know much about his work, but I

am afraid he did not take this title as a compliment.

To find Rembrandt’s great name in connection with our art seems

stranger still, but there is a tradition that copies of his

pictures--we may think of his good Samaritan arriving with the wounded

man before an inn--were used as signs. As we shall see later, his own

portrait was occasionally hung out by a patriotic and art-loving

landlord over the tavern door.

Among English artists Hogarth, whom we already know as a keen observer

of London signs, deserves the first place. He is supposed to be the

author of a sign, not very gallant to the fair sex, called “A man

loaded with mischief.” It represents a wife-ridden man. All kinds of

delicate allusions hidden in the background of the composition seem to

hint at the sad fact that this impudent woman on his back holding a

glass of gin gets sometimes “drunk as a sow.” I doubt if Hogarth

engraved this plate himself; it is signed “Sorrow” as the engraver and

“Experience” as the designer. It would do little honor either to

Hogarth the man or the artist.

All satirical art has this great deficiency, that it is hard for the

public to judge whether the satire means to combat seriously the vices

and errors of men or whether the smile of the satirist is not a smile

of complacency. But such doubts must not detain us from visiting with

good humor an exhibition of signs, the spiritual promoter of which

Hogarth seems to have been. At any rate, he contributed quite a few of

his own works under the transparent pseudonym “Hagarty.”

Bonnell Thornton, who, after a brilliant journalistic career as editor

of “The Connoisseur,” “The St. James’s Chronicle,” and other

publications, received the greatest honor accorded to Englishmen, a

final abode in Westminster Abbey, was the originator of this curious

exhibition. Hogarth was at least on the “hanging committee.” The fact

that the gates of the Signboard Exhibition were opened in the spring

of 1762, at the same time as the official Exhibition of the Society

for the Encouragement of Arts, provoked the anger of the “Brother

Artists” and was the signal for a perfect storm among the newspapers.

Furious articles stigmatized the enterprise as “the most impudent and

pickpocket Abuse that I ever knew offered to the Publick.” “The best

entertainment it can afford is that of standing in the street, and

observing with how much shame in their Faces People come out of the

House. Pity it will be, if all who are employed in the carrying on

this Cheat, are not seized and sent to serve the King.” In those days,

“to serve the King” was evidently a severe punishment. The

sign-painters in their turn hurried to protest their innocence and to

refute “the most malicious suggestion that their Exhibition is

designed as a Ridicule on the Exhibition of the Society for the

Encouragement of Arts. They are not in the least prompted by any mean

Jealousie to depreciate the Merits of their Brother Artists, ... their

sole View is to convince Foreigners, as well as their own blinded

Countrymen, that however inferior this Nation may be unjustly deemed

in other Branches of the Polite Arts, the Palm of Sign-Painting must

be universally ceded to Us, the Dutch themselves not excepted.” The

committee even reprinted the articles and letters abusive of the

Exhibition, “thanking the critics for so successfully advertising

their efforts.”

No doubt, this exposition was a rare treat. Not only were all the

painted signs “worse executed than any that are to be seen in the

meanest streets, and the carved Figures,” as one of the curious who

visited the show tells us, “the very worst of Signpost Work, but

several Tobacco Rolls, Sugar Loaves, Hats, Wigs, Stockings and Gloves,

and even a Westphalian Ham hung round the room.” “The Cream of the

whole Jest,” or, as the French would say, the “clou de l’exposition,”

were two boards behind blue curtains with the warning inscription:

“Ladies and gentlemen are requested not to finger them, as blue

curtains are hung over in purpose to preserve them.” Since it was the

custom in those days to hide pictures of too indelicate a nature in

this fashion, the ladies, of course, did not dare to gratify their

curiosity. But lascivious gentlemen who did not hesitate to lift the

curtains found only the mocking words: “Ha! Ha! Ha!” and “He! He! He!”

The amusing catalogue of this extraordinary Exhibition has been

published in full in the Appendix of Larwood and Hotten’s “History of

Signboards.” It mentions many of our old acquaintances like “The

Salutation, or French and English manners”; others are new to us, as

“The Barking Dogs,” “a landscape at moonlight, the moon somewhat

eclipsed by an accident.” The peruke-maker’s sign, “Absalom hanging,”

is again an old friend of ours. But the rhyme underneath--

“If Absalom had not worn his own hair

Absalom had not been hanging there”--

seems to us not quite equal in poetical value to the following we read

somewhere else:--

“Oh Absalom! oh Absalom!

Oh Absalom! my son,

If thou hadst worn a periwig

Thou hadst not been undone.”

Some of Hagarty’s contributions have moralizing titles--as, “The

Spirit of Contradiction,” representing two brewers with a barrel of

beer, pulling different ways--which do not amuse us any more to-day.

“The Logger-Heads,” or, “We are Three” (add: fools), is an old sign to

which Shakespeare alludes in his “Twelfth Night” (II, iii), where the

Fool comes between Sir Toby Belch and Sir Andrew Aguecheek, and,

taking each by the hand, says: “How now, my Hearts, did you never see

the picture of We Three?” In country taverns sometimes two asses were

painted on the wall, with the inscription: “We three asses.” The

newcomer used to spell these words with great seriousness, to the

delight of the old customers. Another sign by Hagarty, “Death and the

Doctor,” evidently goes back to the popular scenes of the “Dance of

Death” and reminds us of other gruesome signs, the above-mentioned

French signs, “La Mort qui trompe,” “La Fête de Mort” in Lyon and “La

Cave des Morts” in Geneva. This physician’s sign probably resembled

the rude woodcuts of the first printed editions of the “Dance of

Death” from the fifteenth century: the doctor very unwilling to follow

his colleague, “the sure Physician,” as Shakespeare has called Death.

Some such picture was in the poet’s mind when he wrote the words in

“Cymbeline,” V, v:--

“By medicine life may be prolong’d, yet death

Will seize the doctor too.”

This exhibition of Signboards inspired by Hogarth was the first and

most amusing of its kind. More than one hundred years later an

“Exposition Nationale des Enseignes parlantes artistiques” was

arranged in Brussels with one hundred and forty-one different signs,

and in 1902 the Prefet de la Seine organized in the City Hall of Paris

a great “Concours d’Enseignes.” Both represent serious and idealistic

efforts to improve the artistic side of trade-signs, and by this means

to ennoble the picture of the street so often disfigured by vulgar

advertisements. Well-known artists, as the sculptors Dervé and

Moreau-Vauthier, the painters Willette, Bellery-Desfontaines, Félix

Régamey, and the popular collaborator of “Le Rire,” Albert Guilleaume,

contributed to this exhibition and thus stimulated their colleagues to

work for the Museum of the Street. Henri Détaille, the famous painter

of battle scenes and pupil of Meissonier, was the spiritual author of

the competition. In a letter to Grand-Carteret, the writer of a great,

luxurious publication on the signs of Lyon, he had expressed the hope

to educate and refine the artistic instinct of the masses through this

medium of noble signs: “L’enseigne amusera la foule: rien n’empêche

même qu’elle soit instructive tout en restant une très pure œuvre

d’art.” He ends his letter with the following lines that give credit

to his good heart and his sympathy for the common people: “Que les

enseignes les plus belles les plus artistiques aillent surtout dans

les quartiers pauvres, populeux et privés, de toute manifestation

d’art.” If we reflect that indeed the posters often are the only

touches of brightness in the gray monotony of the poor quarters, we

will heartily join Détaille in the wish that these posters might be

pure and noble creations of art. Certain German posters, lithographed

by such artists as Cissarz, seem to approach this ideal. The recent

German War-Poster, “Gedenket Eurer Dichter und Denker,” may find an

honorable mention in this connection.

In England the advice Détaille gave to the artists “à reprendre la

tradition” has never been entirely forgotten, and even to the present

day well-known artists have not disdained to paint signs occasionally.

But before we enter the amiable society of contemporary artists we

will show due honor to the great master Grinling Gibbons, who, so to

speak, is an honorary member of the Sign-Makers’ Guild. To no visitor

of London is the name of this sculptor unfamiliar. His master-hand

carved the choir stalls in St. Paul’s Cathedral and many elaborate

wood-sculptures in royal castles. One of his works is the famous

golden cock in “Ye Olde Cock Tavern” in Fleet Street. When the old

house was torn down to make room for a branch office of the Bank of

England, the noble bird was obliged to move across the street, where

he now occupies the seat of honor in a large and rather dull room. I

am sure he would prefer to roost in the little paneled room, up

another flight, where Tennyson wrote the poem that made the creature

immortal.

[Illustration: ·THE·GOAT·IN·KENSINGTON·]

Among the living English artists who painted signs we may mention

Nicholson and Pryde, both experts in the art of the poster. Our

illustration “The Goat,” which hangs out on High Street, No. 3, in

London, is attributed to them, but even the greatest admirer of

Nicholson’s woodcuts will not find it worth while to pay a visit to

this unattractive ale-house. There is more charm in “The Rowing

Barge,” a signed work of G. D. Leslie, member of the Royal Academy, in

Wallingford on the Thames, where we found it in the neighborhood of

the old Norman Church of St. Leonhard.

It took even two Academicians, Leslie and L. E. Hodgson, to produce

the “George and Dragon” sign in Wargrave, a fascinating little place

buried amidst the greenery of giant trees. The damp climate has

effaced and darkened the sign considerably; the owner of the inn has

therefore taken it in and placed it on the garden side of the house,

under the protection of a balcony. Wargrave has a few other remarkable

signs, such as the one of the “Bull Inn,” which seems to be inspired

by the beautiful picture of young Potter.

But not the least beautiful among signs are the works of unknown

artists. All the admirable signs in forged iron, from the eighteenth

century and the beginning of the nineteenth, in southern Germany,

belong to this group. Benno Rüttenauer, to whom we are indebted in

many ways, has praised these pure works of art in an article on

“Swabian Tavern Signs”: “They are a joy to the eye and caress it as

the melody of a folk-song caresses the ear.” From what invisible

sources springs their beauty? we ask, just as we do before the great,

miraculous flowers of Gothic cathedrals rising mysteriously from the

plain cornfields of northern France. Simple artisans were their

inventors and creators, men who dared to let their own ideas grow in

the free play of glowing, flexible iron, not yet disturbed by

pattern-books and school wisdom.

More beautiful still than these are the eternal signs with which

Mother Nature, the only real teacher of all true artists, invites the

weary pilgrim to rest: the moon, the gentle shining stars, and the

blossoming trees under whose perfumed branches we sleep so sweetly.

This is the oldest inn; the Germans call it “Bei Mutter Grün,” and the

French speak similarly of “loger à l’enseigne de la lune”; “coucher à

l’enseigne de la belle étoile.” Nobody has sung the charms of this

natural inn more sweetly than the Swabian poet Uhland in his song,

“Bei einem Wirte wundermild,” which we beg permission to quote in W.

W. Skeat’s happy translation:--

“A kind and gentle host was he

With whom I stayed but now;

His sign a golden apple was

That dangled from a bough.

“Yea! ’t was a goodly apple-tree

With whom I late did rest;

With pleasant food and juices fresh

My parching mouth he blest.

“There entered in his house so green

Full many a light-winged guest;

They gaily frisked and feasted well

And blithely sang their best.

“I found a couch for sweet repose

Of yielding verdure made;

The host himself, he o’er me spread

His cool and grateful shade.

“Then asked I what I had to pay,

Whereat his head he shook;

O blest be he for evermore

From root to topmost nook!”

Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of Hospitality · 第 14 / 24 章