CHAPTER I

Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this

file which includes the original illustrations.

See 48634-h.htm or 48634-h.zip:

(https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/48634/pg48634-images.html)

or

(https://www.gutenberg.org/files/48634/48634-h.zip)

Transcriber's note:

Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).

Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).

[~ao] as in Serr[~ao] depicts a single tilde extending

over both letters ("a" and "o").

Small capital text has been replaced with all capitals.

[Illustration: MAGELLAN VISITING THE KING OF SEBU]

PIONEERS IN AUSTRALASIA

by

SIR HARRY JOHNSTON

G.C.M.G., K.C.B.

With Eight Coloured Illustrations by Alec Ball

Blackie and Son Limited

London Glasgow Bombay

Printed and bound in Great Britain

PREFACE

I have been asked to write a series of works which should deal

with "real adventures", in parts of the world either wild and

uncontrolled by any civilized government, or at any rate regions

full of dangers, of wonderful discoveries; in which the daring

and heroism of white men (and sometimes of white women) stood out

clearly against backgrounds of unfamiliar landscapes, peopled with

strange nations, savage tribes, dangerous beasts, or wonderful

birds. These books would again and again illustrate the first coming

of the white race into regions inhabited by people of a different

type, with brown, black, or yellow skins; how the European was

received, and how he treated these races of the soil which gradually

came under his rule owing to his superior knowledge, weapons,

wealth, or powers of persuasion. The books were to tell the plain

truth, even if here and there they showed the white man to have

behaved badly, or if they revealed the fact that the American

Indian, the Negro, the Malay, the black Australian was sometimes

cruel and treacherous.

A request thus framed was almost equivalent to asking me to write

stories of those pioneers who founded the British Empire; in any

case, the volumes of this series do relate the adventures of those

who created the greater part of the British Dominions beyond the

Seas, by their perilous explorations of unknown lands and waters.

In many instances the travellers were all unconscious of their

destinies, of the results which would arise from their actions. In

some cases they would have bitterly railed at Fate had they known

that the result of their splendid efforts was to be the enlargement

of an empire under the British flag. Perhaps if they could know by

now that we are striving under that flag to be just and generous to

all types of men, and not to use our empire solely for the benefit

of English-speaking men and women, the French who founded the

Canadian nation, the Germans and Dutch who helped to create British

Africa, Malaysia, and Australia, the Spaniards who preceded us in

the West Indies and in New Guinea, and the Portuguese in West,

Central, and East Africa, in Newfoundland, Ceylon, and Malaysia,

might--if they have any consciousness or care for things in this

world--be not so sorry after all that we are reaping where they

sowed.

It is (as you will see) impossible to tell the tale of these early

days in the British Dominions beyond the Seas, without describing

here and there the adventures of men of enterprise and daring who

were not of our own nationality. The majority, nevertheless, were

of British stock; that is to say, they were English, Welsh, Scots,

Irish, perhaps here and there a Channel Islander and a Manxman; or

Nova Scotians, Canadians, and New Englanders. The bulk of them were

good fellows, a few were saints, a few were ruffians with redeeming

features. Sometimes they were common men who blundered into great

discoveries which will for ever preserve their names from perishing;

occasionally they were men of Fate, predestined, one might say,

to change the history of the world by their revelations of new

peoples, new lands, new rivers, new lakes, snow mountains, and gold

mines. Here and there is a martyr like Marquette, or Livingstone,

or Gordon, dying for the cause of a race not his own. And others

again are mere boys, whose adventures come to them because they are

adventurous, and whose feats of arms, escapes, perils, and successes

are quite as wonderful as those attributed to the juvenile heroes of

Marryat, Stevenson, and the author of _The Swiss Family Robinson_.

I have tried, in describing these adventures, to give my readers

some idea of the scenery, animals, and vegetation of the new lands

through which these pioneers passed on their great and small

purposes; as well as of the people, native to the soil, with whom

they came in contact. And in treating of these subjects I have

thought it best to give the scientific names of the plant or animal

which was of importance in my story, so that any of my readers who

were really interested in natural history could at once ascertain

for themselves the exact type alluded to, and, if they wished, look

it up in a museum, a garden, or a natural history book.

I hope this attempt at scientific accuracy will not frighten away

readers young and old; and, if you can have patience with the

author, you will, by reading this series of books on the great

pioneers of British West Africa, Canada, Malaysia, West Indies,

South Africa, and Australasia, get a clear idea of how the British

Colonial Empire came to be founded.

You will find that I have often tried to tell the story in the words

of the pioneers, but in these quotations I have adopted the modern

spelling, not only in my transcript of the English original or

translation, but also in the place and tribal names, so as not to

puzzle or delay the reader. Otherwise, if you were to look out some

of the geographical names of the old writers, you might not be able

to recognize them on the modern atlas. The pronunciation of this

modern geographical spelling is very simple and clear: the vowels

are pronounced _a_ = ah, _e_ = eh, _i_ = ee, _o_ = o, _ô_ = oh, _ō_

= aw, _ö_ = u in 'hurt', and _u_ = oo, as in German, Italian, or

most other European languages; and the consonants as in English.

H.H. JOHNSTON.

CONTENTS

Chap. Page

I. THE GENERAL FEATURES OF AUSTRALASIA 15

II. THE FIRST HUMAN INHABITANTS OF AUSTRALASIA 46

III. SPANISH AND PORTUGUESE EXPLORERS LEAD THE WAY

TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN 88

IV. DUTCH DISCOVERIES 129

V. DAMPIER'S VOYAGES 148

VI. JAMES COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE 178

VII. NEW SOUTH WALES 225

VIII. COOK'S SECOND AND THIRD VOYAGES 252

IX. BLIGH AND THE "BOUNTY" 278

X. THE RESULTS OF THE PIONEERS' WORK 290

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

COLOURED PLATES

Page

Magellan visiting the King of Sebu _Frontispiece_

An Australian Aborigine navigating a Raft 48

Tasman's Men attacked by Natives off the Coast of New Zealand 136

Dampier and his Crew watching a Volcanic Eruption 174

Captain Cook's Arrival at Tahiti (1769) 192

Captain Cook at Botany Bay 228

Captain Bligh and his Men searching for Oysters off the Great

Barrier Reef 282

Whaling in the South Seas 298

BLACK-AND-WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS

The Biggest of the Kangaroos 38

Papuan of South-east New Guinea, near Port Moresby, and

Oceanic Negro Type from the Northernmost Solomon Islands 60

A Typical Polynesian, and an Australoid Type from Northern

Queensland 80

The Two Dutch Ships under Tasman's Command (the _Heemskerk_

and the _Zeehaen_) at Anchor in the Tonga Islands, Pacific 140

The Island of Tahiti and its extraordinary Double Canoes: as

seen by Captain Cook 206

A View of Dusky Bay, on the Great South Island of New Zealand,

with a Maori Family: as seen by Captain Cook 222

A Chief at St. Christina, in the Marquezas Archipelago, and a

Man of Easter Island 266

A Dancing Ground and Drums at Port Sandwich, Malekala

(Mallicolo) Island, New Hebrides. Tambu House (Temple)

in Background 276

* * * * *

Map of the Malay Archipelago 26

Map of Australasia 148

Map of Australia and New Zealand 300

BIBLIOGRAPHY

=Magellan's Voyage Around the World.= By Antonio Pigafetta. Translated

and annotated by James Alexander Robertson. 2 Vols. Cleveland,

U.S.A. The Arthur H. Clark Company. 1906. (This is the best work

dealing with Magellan's voyage to the Philippines and the after

events of his expedition.)

=The First Voyage Round the World by Magellan.= Translated from

the accounts of Pigafetta, &c., by Lord Stanley of Alderley.

London. Hakluyt Society. 1874. (This work contains a great deal of

supplementary information regarding the doings of the Spaniards and

Portuguese in the Pacific and Malaysia.)

=Early Voyages to Australia.= By R.H. Major. London. Hakluyt Society.

1859.

=Tasman's Journal ... Facsimiles of the Original MS. with Life of

Tasman.= By J.E. Heeres. Amsterdam. 1898.

=Dampier's Voyages.= Edited by John Masefield. 2 Vols. London. E.

Grant Richards. 1906.

=The History of Mankind.= By Professor Friedrich Ratzel. Translated

from the second German edition by A.J. Butler, M.A. 3 Vols. London.

Macmillan & Co. 1896.

=The History of the Australian Colonies.= By Edward Jenks, M.A.

Cambridge University Press. 1896.

=Voyage Autour du Monde.= By De Bougainville. Paris. 1771.

=The Natives of Sarawak and British North Borneo.= By H. Ling Roth.

London. 1896.

=Cook's Voyages.= (Original edition in 6 Vols., including plates.)

London. 1772, 1777, and 1784.

Captain Cook's Journal during his First Voyage Round the World.=

Edited by Captain W.J.L. Wharton, R.N., F.R.S. London. Elliot Stock.

1893.

=Journal of the Rt. Hon. Sir Joseph Banks.= Edited by Sir Joseph D.

Hooker. Macmillan & Co. 1896.

=Captain James Cook.= By Arthur Kitson. London. John Murray. 1907.

(This is the best life of Cook.)

=The Eventful History of the Mutiny and Piratical Seizure of H.M.S.

"Bounty".= London. John Murray. 1831.

=Gonzalez's Voyage to Easter Island, 1770-1.= Translated by Bolton

Glanville Corney. Hakluyt Society. 1908.

=Terre Napoléon.= (The French attempts to explore Australia at the

beginning of the 19th Century.) By Ernest Scott. London. Methuen.

1910.

=Murihiku.= (A study of New Zealand history.) By the Hon. R. M'Nab.

New Zealand. 1907. (A most interesting, accurate, and comprehensive

work.)

=Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand, &c., in Company with the Rev.

Samuel Marsden.= By John Liddiard Nicholas. 2 Vols. London. 1817.

=New Zealand: being a Narrative of Travels and Adventures, &c.=

By J.S. Pollack. 2 Vols. London. Richard Bentley. 1838. (Gives

interesting information regarding the whale fishery round about New

Zealand.)

=Narrative of the Surveying Voyage of H.M.S. "Fly".= By J.B. Jukes.

2 Vols. London. 1847. (Treats of the exploration of the coasts of

Torres Straits, South New Guinea, and Malaysia.)

=Narrative of the Voyage of H.M.S. "Rattlesnake".= By John

Macgillivray. 2 Vols. London. 1852. (This deals with the exploration

of South-east New Guinea, &c. Professor Huxley accompanied this

expedition as surgeon, and contributed illustrations to the book.)

=The Malay Archipelago, &c.= By Alfred Russel Wallace. 2 Vols. London.

Macmillan. 1869.

=A Naturalist's Wanderings in the Eastern Archipelago.= By H.O.

Forbes. London. 1885.

=Life of Sir James Brooke.= By Sir Spencer St. John. London. 1879.

PIONEERS

IN AUSTRALASIA

CHAPTER I

The General Features of Australasia

In previous books of this series dealing with the achievements and

adventures of the pioneers whose journeys led to the foundation of

the British Empire beyond the seas, I have described the revelation

of West Africa, the exploration of British North America, and the

experiences of those who laid the foundations of our knowledge

concerning India and Further India. The scope of this last volume

brought us to Sumatra, Singapore, and Java: that is to say the

western part of Malaysia. I now propose to set before my readers

the more remarkable among the voyages and strange happenings which

led to the discovery of Australasia, and to the inclusion within

the British Empire of northern Borneo, south-eastern New Guinea,

the continent of Australia, the large islands of New Zealand, and a

good many islands and archipelagoes in the Pacific Ocean. The most

convenient general term for this region of innumerable islands,

large and small, is "Australasia", since it lies mostly in the

southern hemisphere and yet is more nearly connected by affinity or

proximity with Asia rather than any other continent.

Yet this title is not strictly correct, for Borneo, like Sumatra

and Java, is really part of Asia so far as its geological and

human history, animals, and plants are concerned; whereas the

Malay islands farthest to the east--such as Timor, the Moluccas,

and Jilolo--more correctly belong to a distinct region of the

world, of which New Guinea and Australia are the headquarters,

and New Zealand, Easter Island, the Marquezas Islands, and Hawaii

the farthest outlying portions. But in regard to the landing of

Europeans and the order of its exploration, Borneo, like the

Philippines, forms part of that "Australasia" which was first

reached (1521) from the direction of the Pacific Ocean.

Australasia (it is necessary, if wearisome, to repeat) consists of

islands, great, small, and very small; Australia being so large an

island that it ranks as the fifth and smallest of the continents.

The insular character of Australasia has caused most of the great

adventures connected with its discovery and colonization to be

extraordinary feats of ocean rather than of land travel. But when we

consider the size of the sailing ships, or of the mere junks, boats,

or canoes in which some of the journeys were made, and the fact that

the home of the explorers was not two, three, or four thousand miles

away across the sea (as in the discovery of America and the West

African coast), but more than treble that distance; that these hardy

adventurers had to reach the unknown islands of the Pacific either

round the stormy Cape of Good Hope or the still more stormy Cape

Horn in ships on which we might hesitate to embark in order to cross

the Bay of Biscay or the Irish Channel: the achievements of the

Australasian pioneers in the sixteenth, seventeenth, eighteenth,

and early nineteenth centuries become almost unbelievable in their

heroism and power of endurance. The _Victoria_ of Magellan's fleet

which sailed from Spain to the Pacific and back across the Atlantic

and Indian oceans was of 85 tons capacity! Matthew Flinders in 1803

crossed the Indian Ocean from North Australia to Mauritius in a

schooner of 29 tons! Sir James Brooke sailed in 1883 from the mouth

of the Thames to conquer North Borneo from the pirates in a sailing

yacht of 148 tons.

Think of the courage that must have been required by a Magellan,

a de Quiros, or even a Captain Cook, when they steered into the

Unknown from the coast of South America across the broad waters of

the Pacific! They had only a limited stock of fresh water: how long

would it be before an island or a continent was encountered whereon

they could land to replenish their supplies from some spring near

the seashore or some stream falling from the hills? They had very

little in the way of fresh provisions: when these were exhausted

might not their mariners develop that dread disease scurvy,[1] and

rot into madness or death? or before arriving at such an extremity

mutiny and murder their officers? Food of any kind might become

exhausted before fresh supplies could be obtained; and we know from

many instances how ready the ship's crew of famished, uneducated

sailors was, first to talk of cannibalism, and at last to lay

violent hands on an officer or a comrade, kill him, and eat him. Or

the undiscovered lands which would be their only resource against

a death from starvation, disease, or thirst might be populated by

ferocious man-eating savages (as indeed many of them were) and the

landing parties of seamen and officers be promptly massacred. Or it

might be a desert island, and the pleasing-looking herbs or fruits

be deadly poison, or the strange fish, mussels, oysters, clams,

whelks, or turtles prove to be so unwholesome that all who ate of

this new fare were prostrated with illness. The gallant little

sailing ship--little in our eyes whether its capacity were of 30

or even 400 tons--might be charged by a bull cachalot whale as big

as an islet, and then and there spring a leak and founder with all

on board. There might well be--and there were--treacherous coral

reefs just masked by two or three feet of water on which the vessel

would be driven at night-time and break her back. The crew would

take to their frail boats and then have a thousand or more sea miles

to cross, with oar and ineffective sail, before they could find a

landing place and sustenance. Perhaps on the way thither (the giant,

greedy sharks following in their wake) they died of sunstroke or

thirst, or went mad and jumped into the sea and the shark's maw. Or

they did reach some South Sea island--not to be discovered again

for a century or two--where they were received as demigods by the

astonished savages, but where they had to pass the rest of their

lives as savages too; consoling themselves as best they could with a

Polynesian wife or husband (for there were women sometimes in these

ventures, especially on the Spanish vessels) and the growing up of

a half-caste family; but never heard of again in their far-away

homes, and ever and anon weeping and crying in vain to Heaven to be

restored once more to the fair cities and romantic life of Spain or

Portugal, or to the comfort and the orderly beauty of a Norman or an

English homestead.

[1] It has been computed that, during the years between 1510 and

1530, the Spanish and Portuguese ships exploring the Atlantic,

Pacific, and Indian oceans lost ten thousand seamen from scurvy.

After sailing, sailing, sailing across the equatorial belt of the

Pacific Ocean they at length reached--if no disaster arrested

their progress--the limits of the known: they came to some part of

Malaysia where the natives were no longer naked, black, unreasoning

cannibals, or crafty, yellow, naked thieves; some seaport in the

Philippines, Celebes, Timor, or Java where they met men of the

Muhammadan religion, or even other European Christians who had

reached Australasia round the Cape of Good Hope. But the Muhammadans

might out of jealousy or of revenge for wrongs they had suffered

from other Christians cause them to be imprisoned or murdered, while

more often than not the fellow Christians they were greeting after a

twelve-thousand miles' voyage half round the world belonged to some

nation in rivalry or at war with their own. Then they might be held

long years in captivity, or be executed (with or without torture)

outright. (Matthew Flinders was imprisoned in Mauritius for six and

a half years by the French not much more than a hundred years ago.)

At any rate they would probably be refused those sea stores and

materials necessary for repairing a crazy ship, and have to face the

return voyage across the Indian Ocean, round the stormy extremity of

Africa, and through the violent gales of the northern Atlantic with

but a slender hope of reaching home, or even of surviving the perils

of the sea, in a leaky, worm-eaten ship with splintered masts and

rotten sails.

* * * * *

This fifth division of the earth's surface which they had come to

explore consisted of an almost uncountable number of islands ranging

in size from Australia, with an area of 2,946,691 square miles, New

Guinea, which has about 312,330, and Borneo, with another 290,000,

to tiny islets like the Fanning atoll, 9 miles by 4, or little

Pitcairn, 2 miles square, on which the mutineers of the _Bounty_

long hid themselves. The larger islands nearer to Asia were for

the most part fragments of a former extension of the Asiatic or

Australian continents; even New Zealand (104,000 square miles) must

once have formed part of a huge strip of continental land stretching

southwards from New Guinea and north-east Australia. But most of the

islands of Micronesia and Polynesia (as distinct from Melanesia[2]),

though they may have been larger than they are now and have risen

out of comparatively shallow seas, were nevertheless always oceanic,

that is to say, never connected with any great continent in recent

ages.

[2] At this stage it may assist the reader if I give in a footnote

the principal geographic divisions of Australasia.

Beginning on the west there is _Malaysia_, a term which comprises

all the islands of the Malay Archipelago up to the vicinity of

New Guinea. New Guinea and the islands and archipelagoes near

it constitute the region of _Papuasia_; south of Papuasia is

_Australia_ (including Tasmania, Lord Howe, and Norfolk Islands,

and perhaps New Caledonia); to the south-east of Australia lies

_New Zealand_, which dominion comprises naturally and politically

the Kermadec islets, the Chatham Islands and Macquarie Island;

_Melanesia_ is the domain of the dark-skinned people who are

half-Papuan and half-Polynesian, and is generally held to include

the Solomon Islands, the Santa Cruz, and New Hebrides archipelagoes,

and the Fiji group. All the foregoing (together with the Samoa and

Tonga Islands) were once connected by land with each other and with

the continent of Asia.

North of Papuasia is the division of small islands known as

_Micronesia_; it includes the Gilbert, Marshall, Caroline, and

Ladrone archipelagoes. Almost in the middle of the northern half

of the Pacific is the isolated ridge or shelf from which rises

the _Hawaii_ or Sandwich Islands, two of which are rather large

(for Pacific islands). The Hawaii group is quite distinct from

any other, and has never been joined to a continent. Finally,

there remains the division of _Polynesia_, which likewise, in all

probability, has never been continental, and which includes the

separate archipelagoes of Marquezas, Tuamotu, Tubuai, Tahiti (the

Society Islands), the Palmyra, Phœnix, and Malden groups, and the

remote Easter Island, only 2374 miles from South America. The

term "Polynesia" often covers the Samoa and the Tonga Islands,

because they are peopled by the Polynesian race; but these groups

are in other respects part of Melanesia. Finally, _Oceania_ is a

convenient term for all the islands, including New Guinea and New

Zealand, which lie to the east of Malaysia, to the north and east of

Australia.

These small islands are divided into two classes: the mountainous

or volcanic and the coral or flat islands, also called "atolls",

from a word in a South Indian language. Atolls, or coral islands,

in the Pacific and Indian Oceans are made by the coral animals (a

polyp or minute jellyfish-like creature living in communities like

the cells of a human body), building upwards towards the surface

of the sea the lime structures in which they exist. They start, of

course, from some reef or submerged volcanic cone which is not far

below the surface of the water. The limestone rock which they make

out of secretions from the sea water gradually forms an irregular

circle of narrow islets, with a lagoon in the centre and one or

more deep openings to the sea. Vegetation--always coconuts--slowly

covers these coral islands, and at last they become habitable by

man. If the land beneath them is rising above the waves, the coral

fossilizes into coralline rock and the living coral animals go on

building and extending farther out to sea. If the land is sinking

faster than the coral animal can build, then by degrees the once

pleasant islets become a jumble of barren and crumbling rocks, only

haunted by sea birds (but sometimes valuable for their guano), and

finally a dangerous reef or shoal.

Of the smaller Pacific islands that are not mere coral reefs and

atolls the Hawaii group, the Marquezas, Tahiti, Easter Island,

Pitcairn, the Samoa, Tonga, and Fiji groups, the New Hebrides,

most of the Ladrones, and one or two of the Caroline Islands are

_volcanic_, high, and of recent formation, even though like the New

Hebrides and the Marquezas they may rest on submerged extensions

of sunken lands. The Solomon Islands are also mainly volcanic, but

with the Bismarck archipelago practically form an extension of New

Guinea; while New Caledonia is a very old fragment of unsubmerged

land, and so is tiny Norfolk Island between New Caledonia and New

Zealand. The southern island of New Zealand is, like New Caledonia,

a portion of an ancient continent which has never been submerged;

and the north island of that dominion is a very volcanic region.

The volcanic islands of the Pacific are always of more importance

than the coral, partly because they are larger, but still more

on account of their singularly fertile soil, high peaks, good

rainfall, and picturesque scenery. They are, in fact, the "summer

isles of Eden, set in dark purple spheres of sea", of Tennyson's

poem. The climate is almost invariably healthy, the temperature a

perpetual summer, with a never-absent invigorating sea breeze. The

only grim reminder that there is another side to Nature lies in the

occasional hurricane which drives great ships on to the coral or the

basalt rocks, which lays low many a dwelling and plantation, or the

earthquake followed by the still more alarming tidal wave. In Hawaii

there is one of the largest active volcanoes in the world, into the

seething crater of which victims used to be thrown as sacrifices to

the god of fire. In the New Hebrides and Santa Cruz Islands there

are other volcanoes, also active and occasionally emitting great

streams of molten lava. This is, or was, also the case in the little

islands--mere volcanic peaks rising above the waves--that form a

broken chain round the north coast of New Guinea. Here were the

"burning islets" so often noted in Tasman's and Dampier's voyages.

Weird was the sight of them at night--a great cone standing out of

the blue-black darkness, vomiting red fiery gas and red-hot ashes,

columns of dense smoke turned gold and orange by the incandescent

lava bubbling up and boiling over the crater's lips, and streaming

in blazing cascades down the mountain's sides. The thundering

discharges of gas, the crackling of electricity, added to the terror

of the scene; and yet one can realize that after a time and the

passing of many such small active volcanoes the Dutch, Spanish, and

English sailors became used to them, and even found the presence of

a burning mountain in the dark tropic night a cheering beacon in the

pathless seas.

Borneo, Celebes, Buru, Jilolo, and the Spice Islands, Timor, Ceram,

the eastern Sunda Islands were, of course, with Java and Sumatra

on the west, New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago on the east,

and the Philippines on the north, _continental_ islands; that is to

say, fragments of the former prolongation of Asia towards Australia:

old lands, large or small portions of which have always risen above

the very shallow sea which now separates them from one another.

Yet MALAYSIA, like Polynesia, Melanesia, and Micronesia, is very

volcanic. Of all its islands Borneo is the least so at the present

day, in fact there is no active or recently active volcano in that

huge island; whereas the Philippines are occasionally racked with

earthquakes and have twelve active volcanoes. Java has a long range

of lofty craters--some hundred and twenty-five in all, of which at

least thirteen are active. The Lesser Sunda Islands, east of Java,

likewise contain many volcanoes: Lombok and Sumbawa are little more

than exceedingly large groups of craters, and when the Sumbawa

volcano (of which something like 6 cubic miles was blown away)

erupted in 1815, its red-hot lava and ashes killed forty thousand

of the inhabitants on its slopes. There are volcanoes in Celebes,

the Moluccas, Jilolo, and some of the islands off the west end of

New Guinea. Timor only shows traces of past volcanic activity. In

consequence of its being the most volcanic region in the world,

Malaysia is very subject to earthquakes; and these disturbances of

the earth's surface not only cause devastating tidal waves on the

seacoasts, but in some way affect the atmosphere, provoking fearful

cyclones of wind, followed by torrential rain. Similar disturbances

of the atmosphere, however, occur frequently before or after the

rainy season. Borneo is frightfully hot--perhaps hotter all the

year round than any other country--but it is less afflicted with

devastating winds. Nearly all Malaysia has a tremendous rainfall,

though one or two islands, such as Flores and parts of Timor, have

a rather drier climate, more suggestive of northern Australia. As

a rule, however, Malaysia, in consequence of its perpetual summer

under an equatorial sun, its rich alluvial soil--often of that

peculiar richness associated with volcanic materials--and its

plentiful rainfall, is clothed with a primeval forest which for

luxuriance can scarcely be matched in West Africa or Brazil. These

lands have been styled "the gardens of the sun"; "enormous forcing

houses crammed with vegetation"; "great zoological gardens, full of

rare and curious beasts". Here may be seen many species of palms:

the gloriously beautiful Cyrtostachys palm of Java, with vividly

red sheaths to the fronds and flower stalks, and bright yellow

inflorescence changing to scarlet fruit; the creeping, climbing

palms (the "rattan" or _Calamus_); stately Areca palms (which

produce the betel nut, and the smaller species the "cabbage", so

often described by travellers in Australia and the Pacific islands);

useful Sago palms (_Metroxylon_); the sugar-yielding _Arenga_; the

toddy or "rum" palm (_Caryota_); the Nipa, used for thatching; and,

of course, the Coconut. As one travels eastward into the Pacific,

this variety of palms thins out until at last only the Coconut

remains on the coral islands.

Of the other far-famed trees of the Malaysian forest there is the

tall Duriān, with its evil-smelling, delicious-tasting fruit;

there are stately, evergreen oaks, chestnuts, and mulberries;

many kinds of fig trees--some growing like the Indian Banyan,

with dependent roots that reach down from the far-spreading

branches and form a grove of trees in time; others that live like

grey, snaky parasites writhing about the trunks of victim trees,

which in time they strangle; there are giant laurels, cinnamon

laurels, huge myrtles, clove myrtles with their intensely aromatic

flowerbuds, caoutchouc trees producing indiarubber, nutmeg trees,

with their fragrant spice which so early drew traders to the most

eastern part of the Malay Archipelago; and there are trees of

sweet-smelling wood like the sandalwood and the _Aquilaria_ or

eaglewood, others like the damar-attam (_Hopea_), which produce a

valuable glass-like resin; there are two or more kinds of big-leaved

Bread-fruit trees (_Artocarpus_), yielding their farinaceous,

fig-like pods; and Artocarpi of a creeping habit whose branches are

covered with small fig-like fruits remarkable for their gorgeous

coloration--scarlet spotted with white, scarlet and purple, white

and orange. Bamboos, often of huge girth, grow everywhere; orchids

of incredible loveliness in colour and strangeness of form fringe

the great boughs of the forest trees, which also afford harbourage

to parasitic aroids of fantastic appearance; the glades are full

of pitcher plants, ground orchids, brilliantly-coloured Cannas,

"Grains-of-Paradise", calladiums with painted leaves, and wild

bananas, with their beautiful, glossy, emerald-green fronds, or in

some species with vividly coloured flower spikes. The marshy places

are thickly grown with rushes resembling the papyrus of Africa; the

shores of estuaries and low-lying coasts are the domain of tall

mangroves and of the pandanus or screw pine--a semi-aquatic tree

of the tropical parts of the Old World, which, with many aerial

roots, and long, pointed, sword-like leaves, is distantly akin to

the palms, and in Australasia produces fruit which is much eaten

by the natives, especially in the Pacific Islands. These dense

jungles of mangrove, pandanus, and other trees growing in the mud

and brackish water--the habitat of mud-hopping fish, and numbers of

large, brightly-coloured shore crabs, some so blue and so white and

glossy that they are called "porcelain" crabs--were often a great

barrier to the early explorers on the coasts of Borneo, Celebes,

and Timor, besides being a prime hiding place for the _praus_ of

the Malay pirates. In the dense forests the lianas and climbing

plants are a remarkable feature in the pictures of triumphant

vegetation--pictures of which my untravelled readers can gain some

faint idea by ascending the winding staircase in the great Palm

House at Kew Gardens and looking down on the complex assemblage

of tropical trees and plants. In these Malaysian woods there are

many species of wild vines, with small brightly-coloured grapes;

there are exquisite wreaths of the climbing asparagus--_Smilax_;

festoons of climbing ferns, of the various kinds of pepper that hang

their clusters of aromatic seeds from tree to tree, of the ipomœas

(convolvuluses), passion flowers, bignonias, jasmines, purple and

scarlet loranthus (a kind of mistletoe), and many climbing peas and

beans, remarkable for their delicate or brightly-coloured flowers,

which often exhale a delicious scent. In the higher parts of Java,

Borneo, the Philippines, and even of New Guinea there are jungles

of rhododendrons with vivid crimson blossoms. It is, however, a

common mistake to suppose that the entire surface of the Malay

islands is covered with primeval forest. Considerable spaces have

been cleared for cultivation, or after such clearing have relapsed

into jungle; and this jungle is either a second growth of poor and

scattered trees or more often a coarse and luxuriant grass. In the

hilly interior of Dutch Borneo there are dry moors, deep in sand and

sparsely covered with scrub. On the high plateaus and the mountain

ranges of Flores and Timor considerable areas are open, treeless

spaces, but covered instead with low-growing herbs, offering to the

eye spectacles of brilliant colour when they blossom during the

rainy season.

The splendid vegetation of Malaysia extends throughout New Guinea

and the adjacent archipelagos, but with a diminution of species

eastwards and a gradual infiltration of Australian forms, such

as the _Eucalyptus_ (a relation of the Myrtle family), the

Casuarinas,[3] and the Araucaria conifers. More and more attenuated,

the Malaysian flora spreads out over the tropical Pacific islands,

wearing itself out finally in Hawaii, to which the sandalwood and a

few other Malayan trees extend; and Pitcairn Island, where, however,

the few Malayan species may have been anciently introduced by man.

[3] A tree in appearance like a conifer, but in reality belonging

to an isolated and very peculiar sub-class of flowering plants,

distantly akin to oaks and catkin-bearing trees.

The larger and more western islands of the Malay Archipelago have

a fauna of beasts, birds, and reptiles, fish and insects, spiders

and land crabs as remarkable as the wealth of their flora, and next

to Africa the richest in the world. Here may still be seen--in

Borneo--the wild Indian elephant and a two-horned rhinoceros;

in Java there is a tiger and a small form of one-horned Indian

rhinoceros. In Borneo exists the large red-haired ape called

Orang-utan; in Java there are smaller anthropoid apes known as

Gibbons. Java and Borneo both have a handsome wild ox, the Banteng,

besides more or less wild long-horned Indian buffaloes. The smallest

and most remarkable of all the buffaloes is the Anoa, found only

on the island of Celebes, and a larger but similar short-horned

buffalo is found in the Philippines. Nearly all the islands have

wild swine--generally of a type near to the wild boar, but with a

very long head--the parent form of the domestic pig of Polynesia.

But the queer island of Celebes, and Buru, which lies to the east,

possess the strangest pig in the world: the Babirusa, a type

with--for pigs--a small and slender head and (in the male) tusks

which grow up and out through the cheeks. In Borneo there is a large

monkey with an immense drooping nose; in Celebes a creature called

the Black Ape--an intermediate form between baboons, macaques, and

the higher apes. The macaque monkeys--creatures with short tails and

bare faces, rather like small baboons (the Gibraltar monkey is a

macaque)--are very common throughout Malaysia, extending as near to

New Guinea and Australia as the islands of Buru and Timor. The other

monkeys belong to the _Semnopithecus_ genus, the long-tailed sacred

monkeys of India. One of these found in Borneo is a combination

in colouring of black, white, and chestnut red. The more northern

and western of the Malay Islands possess a few strange lemurs, a

large flying creature, the colugo, allied to lemurs and bats, and

the Tupaias or squirrel-tailed Insectivores. Deer, without any

white spots and related to the Sambar type of India, are found in

the Philippines, Borneo, Java, the eastern Sunda Islands as far as

Timor, Celebes, and the Moluccas; and in the Philippines there are

spotted deer like the hog deer of India. Carnivorous mammals are

represented more especially by a small tiger and a leopard in Java,

the Clouded tiger of Borneo (a kind of leopard), several small cats,

numerous civets, a small bear, and wild dogs. Cats and civets extend

their range to Timor and the Philippines, and a civet--probably

brought by the Malays--is found in Celebes. The fruit-eating bats or

flying foxes are very large, often attaining to 5 feet across the

wings. Their range extends eastwards beyond the Solomon Islands to

north-east Australia and the New Hebrides. Nearly all the Pacific

islands, including New Zealand and Hawaii, have bats of their

own, but they are insect-eating, and very often day-flying. In

the eastern islands of Malaysia begin to appear the marsupials of

Australia, but until New Guinea is reached there is only one type

to be seen, the Cuscus--a kind of phalanger akin to the "Opossum"

of Australia.[4] There are porcupines, squirrels, and many strange

rodents of the Rat family in western Malaysia. Peculiar genera and

species of rats penetrate not only to New Guinea and the Solomon

Islands, but also to Australia. The native rats of New Zealand

and the Polynesian islands, however, have been introduced by man,

chiefly for food.

[4] The real opossums are only found in America. Phalangers are

woolly haired lemur-like marsupials, living in trees, which have

their thumb and big toe opposite the other digits for grasping,

besides a tail with a prehensile tip. In the arrangement of their

teeth they are distantly related to kangaroos, which are really only

phalangers, whose far-back ancestors have taken to a life on the

ground.

The wealth in birds in Malaysia makes the naturalist's and

artist's mouth water! There are no vultures, but several types

of eagle--amongst them, in the Philippine Islands, a very large

monkey-eating eagle with a huge, narrow beak--and some very

handsomely coloured kites and hawks. Amongst the parrots are the

gorgeous crimson Eclectus, the lovely Lories, and those "white

parrots"--Cockatoos--which furnished so much amazement and delight

to the early Italian voyagers. But the strangest looking of all

the parrots are the black cockatoos, peculiar to New Guinea. The

peacock reaches to Java but not to Borneo, but in Borneo and Palawan

there are superb pheasants and peacock-pheasants, and most of the

Malaysian islands possess wild jungle fowl. Peculiar to Malaysia

and Australia are the Megapodes, a family of gallinaceous birds

allied to the Curassows of America, and which hatch their eggs

by depositing them in mounds of decaying vegetation. There are

very large cuckoos, the size of big pheasants; but perhaps the

most remarkable bird groups in their Malaysian developments are

the Hornbills and the Pigeons. The Fruit Pigeons of this region

transcend description in their exquisite tints of peach colour,

green of several shades, crimson, purple, and maize yellow. One

kind is jet-black and pale-cream colour. These fruit-eating pigeons

extend their range into New Guinea, Australia, and the Pacific

Islands. In New Guinea there is the celebrated Victoria Crowned

Pigeon, largest living of all the tribe; and in the Samoa Islands,

without any near relation, the _Didunculus_, or Little Dodo--a

ground-frequenting bird (which has since taken to the trees) that

shows us how the large Dodo of Mauritius developed from the ordinary

fruit-pigeon type. The Kingfishers of Malaysia are also very

wonderful, and reach their climax of development in the New Guinea

region. Some species are remarkable for their long storklike beaks,

their long racquet tails, and superb plumage of ultramarine blue,

purple, and white.

But the crown of glory which rests on eastern Malaysia and New

Guinea in regard to bird life has been bestowed on this region

because of the presence here--and here only together with the north

extremity of Australia--of the Paradise Birds. These marvels of

creation, which are fast becoming exterminated by the agents of the

wicked plumage trade, and without any opposition from the Dutch,

German, or British Australian Governments of these countries,

first make their appearance to a traveller coming from the west

when he reaches the island of Jilolo or the Aru Islands, neither

of which groups is very far from New Guinea. The Paradise Birds do

not extend their range to the Bismarck Archipelago. East of the

Solomon Islands there are fewer and fewer species of birds. Two

Lories and three or four Parrakeets are found in Fiji, a beautiful

blue and white lory inhabits Tahiti, together with a species of

parrakeet. An ultramarine-blue and purple lory is found in the

remote Marquezas archipelago, the farthest prolongation eastwards of

the Malayan fauna. The other land birds of the Polynesian islands

are pigeons, thrushes, flower-peckers, starlings, shrikes, babblers,

a screech-owl, one or two plovers and rails, a sea-eagle, and two

or three species of ducks. This seems to represent the totality of

the resident birds of the Pacific islands east of Fiji and the New

Hebrides. The birds of the Hawaii archipelago are very peculiar and

have come thither chiefly from America. They include a peculiar

family of starling-like birds--the _Drepanidæ_--celebrated for the

beauty of their plumage which, in fact, has led to the extinction of

several species.

The reptile life of Malaysia comprises many strange and remarkable

forms, but, like the beasts, birds, and freshwater fish, it thins

out in variety of species as the traveller crosses the boundary

line between the Malay islands of Asiatic affinities and those

belonging more to the Australian region; while, of course, in

Polynesia reptiles are very few, or absent altogether. One or two

species of harmless snakes are found as far eastwards as Fiji and

Samoa. No land reptile of any kind exists in Tahiti or in Hawaii.

Perhaps the biggest Crocodile in the world[5] (_Crocodilus porosus_)

is found in all the great Malay Islands, and its range extends

through New Guinea to the Solomon archipelago and Fiji, and to the

extreme north coast of Australia. A much smaller--barely 7 feet

long--crocodile with a long, narrow muzzle is found in northern

and north-eastern Australia, and is quite harmless. Borneo has a

peculiar gavial (fish-eating crocodile) with a very narrow snout.

Large Pythons--perhaps the biggest known to science--extend over

the same Austro-Malayan region, but do not reach lands to the east

of New Guinea and Australia. Their place in the Melanesian islands

of the Pacific is taken by small Boa snakes of a harmless nature. A

prominent reptile in the life of the aborigines in Austro-Malaysia

is the Monitor lizard, nearly always miscalled by Europeans

"Iguana". This Monitor is the largest of the lizards, with a long,

flexible tail, and sometimes as much as 8 feet in length in its

Melanesian types, and is not infrequently mistaken for a crocodile

by Europeans. It has very sharp teeth and can give a severe but not

a very dangerous bite, its most powerful weapon being its whip-like

tail. It is often eaten by the natives, and in its turn devours

their fowls. Curiously enough, there is a _real_ iguana in the Fiji

Islands--one of the puzzles of animal distribution, for the Iguana

family of vegetable-eating lizards is otherwise confined to Tropical

America and Madagaskar. The seas of Malaysia and of Polynesia (as

far south as the New Zealand coasts) swarm at times with different

types of real sea-serpents, that is to say, snakes that live

entirely in the water and resort only to the shore to give birth to

their young, which are born alive. These sea-snakes are of the Cobra

family and are very poisonous. They are sometimes brightly coloured

and marked in bold patterns.

[5] A specimen 33 feet long has been recorded.

[Illustration: The MALAY ARCHIPELAGO Scale, 1:22,500,00]

Very different in climate, flora, and fauna to Malaysia and

Polynesia are the great southern lands of Australia and New Zealand,

together with New Caledonia and Norfolk Island. The northern,

eastern, and south-western coast regions of Australia have a fairly

abundant rainfall--quite as much as that which prevails in the more

southerly of the Malay islands. But the centre, south, west, and

north-west of Australia is much of it an almost hopeless desert,

though not such a complete sandy desert as may be seen in Mongolia

and northern Africa. The vegetation of this dry region of Australia

consists mainly of a close-growing, spiny-seeded grass--the

celebrated _Spinifex_. There are also gouty-looking Baobab trees

like those of Tropical Africa. In New Guinea, where the rich flora

contains not a few Australian elements, there are mountains rising

considerably above the line of perpetual snow[6] both in the

south-east and west, and many of the volcanoes, active and extinct,

of Malaysia attain altitudes of over ten and eleven thousand feet.

There are mountains nearly as lofty in the Solomon Islands, while

in New Zealand we have the superb Southern Alps (12,349 feet at

their highest), which give a magnificent display of snow peaks

and glaciers. But much of Australia is flat and undulating, and

the highest mountain in that continent is only 7328 feet. Another

thing which marks off Australia from the rest of Australasia is

the complete absence of active volcanoes. But this is only quite a

recent fact in its history, for at periods scarcely more distant

than fifty thousand or sixty thousand years ago there were still

volcanoes in the eastern part of the island continent vomiting out

boiling lava and red-hot ashes, even after the land was inhabited

by man. Still, as compared with Malaysia, Polynesia, and northern

New Zealand, Australia is a very stable region, not persecuted by

earthquakes or the present results of volcanic activity.

[6] The New Guinea mountains are the highest in Australasia, higher

than any land between the Himalayas and the Andes. They rise to over

16,000 feet in the west of New Guinea, and nearly 14,000 feet in the

east. High mountains are common features on the great Malay islands.

They rise to over 10,000 feet in Celebes and the Philippines, to

13,700 feet in North Borneo, and to altitudes of over 11,000 feet in

Java and nearly as high in Timor.

Its flora, like its fauna, is so peculiar that it constitutes one

of the most distinct and separate regions of the world. There are

a few patches of forest in the far north-east which are almost

Malayan in their richness, and which contain quite a number of

Malay types; and in the extreme south-west the Araucaria pine

forests attain a certain luxuriance of growth. The predominant tree

throughout Australia is the Eucalyptus, a peculiar development of

the Myrtle order (anciently inhabiting Europe), which extends into

New Guinea but not into New Caledonia or New Zealand. The Eucalyptus

genus in Australia develops something like one hundred and fifty

species, some of these trees 200 feet high, like the splendid

Jarra timber, others--the Mallee scrub--making low thickets of 12

to 14 feet above the ground. The Australian "pines", important

in the timber trade, belong to the genus _Frenela_, (which is

akin to the African _Callitris_), to the cypresses, the yews,

junipers, and to the genus _Araucaria_, the "Monkey Puzzle" type

of conifer. These Araucarias are also met with in Norfolk Island,

New Caledonia, and on the mountains of New Guinea. They furnish

the Norfolk Island pine, 200 feet high and 30 feet in girth; but

the equally celebrated Kauri "pine" of New Zealand belongs to the

quite different genus _Agathis_. The "She-oaks", "swamp-oaks",

"beef-wood", "iron-wood" trees one reads about in the literature

of Australia, are all species of Casuarina trees. (The Casuarinas

form a separate sub-class of flowering plants. See note on p.

27.) There are no real oaks in Australia, but there is a kind of

beech tree in the south. A type of tree most characteristic of

Australia is the Acacia in various forms, but not looking at all

like the Acacia of Africa and India with its pinnate leaves. The

three hundred kinds of Australian acacias mostly develop a foliage

which consists of long, undivided leaves. They are famous for the

beauty and odour of their yellow blossoms, and under the incorrect

name of "Mimosa" are now widely grown all over the world where the

climate is sufficiently mild, just as the _Eucalyptus globulus_ or

Blue Gum tree of Australia has been spread by cultivation far and

wide through Europe, Asia, Africa, and America. But Australia has

comparatively few palms,[7] and those chiefly in the north-east,

and no bread-fruit tree (except where introduced). Conspicuous

objects in the landscape are the "Grass trees" (_Xanthorrhœa_ and

_Kingia_)--plants allied to lilies and rushes. The Grass tree has a

great bunch of wiry-looking leaves at its base, out of which rises a

straight smooth stem like a long walking-stick. This is surmounted

by a spike of white flowers. The _Doryanthis_ lily grows to a height

of 15 feet from the ground. Another conspicuous object in the

"bush" is the splendid Flame tree, with bunches of crimson flowers

(_Brachychiton_, a genus of the _Sterculiaceæ_, distant relations

of the Baobab and the Mallows). A common sight in the well-watered

regions is the Australian "tulip" (nearly everything in Australia is

mis-named)--the great red Waratah flower, really a kind of _Protea_.

To this same order (_Proteaceæ_), which is so well represented

in Australia and South Africa, belong the beautiful-foliaged

_Grevillea_ trees and the celebrated _Banksia_, a shrub named after

Sir Joseph Banks, and found in Australia and New Guinea. In the

marshes and creeks of Queensland there are superb water lilies with

leaves 18 inches in diameter. The gouty Baobab trees of the desert

have been already mentioned.

[7] See p. 241.

Beautiful scenery is only to be met with in Australia in the

mountain ranges of Queensland, New South Wales, and Victoria, and

in the vicinity of Perth (south-west Australia). Here there are

glades with superb tree-ferns, but the mountain peaks above the

tree zone are bare and desolate. A large proportion of the interior

is a dismal flat of scrub and stones, its monotony only broken by

6- to 20-feet-high mounds of the Termites or white ants. A good

deal of the north coast is obstructed by forests of mangroves--a

dismal-looking tree with its dull-green, leathery foliage,

grey-white stems and pendent air-roots.

An interesting feature, however, in Australian scenery is the

Great Barrier Reef. This is the remains of a former north-eastward

extension of Australia--an immense coral reef stretching out for

several hundred miles from the coast of Queensland in the direction

of New Caledonia and the New Hebrides. This reef of visible and

sunken rocks acted as a great barrier in the past, and prevented

timid navigators from finding the north-east coast of Australia

and establishing its separation from New Guinea. But the reef is

of importance to commerce, for it maintains enormous quantities

of the Trepang or Sea-slug, a creature which makes delicious soup

and is passionately liked by the Chinese. [It is not really a slug

but a relation of the star-fish, and is called scientifically a

Holothurian.] The Great Barrier Reef is famous for the variety

and almost incredible beauty of its corals and of the painted and

decorated fish, anemones, and crabs of these shallow waters. It is,

in fact, a region of such wonderful and strange beauty that one can

only hope it will some day be made a kind of national aquarium by

the Commonwealth of Australia, and constantly visited by those who

like to gaze on the marvellous animals of a tropical coral sea.

The rocky coasts of Australia and Tasmania (besides those of the

Philippines and the Pacific Islands) are remarkable for their

abundant supplies of oysters, clams, whelks, and other shell-fish,

which for ages have been a great food supply to savage man,[8] who

had in fact merely to take at low tide what nature offered to him,

at very little trouble to himself. Some of the clams (_Tridacna_)

are enormous, measuring 3 feet and even 5 feet across the upper

shell.

[8] And since the discovery of Australasia began, a sustenance for

shipwrecked mariners

The crocodiles, pythons, and monitor lizards of Australia have been

already alluded to in the description of Austro-Malaysia. There

should, however, be mentioned in addition the long-necked tortoises

of the continent and the turtles of the seacoasts. Australia once

produced immense horned and armoured tortoises, but they became

extinct soon after man entered this remote land. There are no

vipers or rattlesnakes in Australia; all the poisonous snakes (and

there are many) belong to the Cobra family. The most singular

in appearance of the living land reptiles is a very large Agama

lizard (the _Chlamydosaurus_), which is as much as 3 feet long,

runs or hops on its hind limbs, and when angry erects a huge frill

of leathery skin round the chest and shoulders. Another equally

strange form of the Agama family is the Moloch lizard, about 1 foot

long, with a very small mouth, but protected by the covering of its

skin--a mass of sharp spines, thorns, and knobs. Its skin is not

only very rough, but very absorbent, so that it will suck up water

like blotting paper.

The beasts and birds of Australia are, in most cases, peculiar

to that continent. The former belong almost entirely to the

marsupial sub-class, that is to say, they consist of creatures

like the Kangaru, Phalanger, and Thylacine (besides the Opossums

of America), which, after the young is born, place it in a pouch

on the outside of the mother's stomach, where it is kept until it

is able to forage for itself. In many respects these marsupials

evince a low organization, and really resemble, in their jaws and

teeth, primitive mammals of ancient times discovered in fossil in

Great Britain and North America. New Guinea also possesses some

of these marsupial types, derived probably from Australia. The

most widespread of these is the Spotted Cuscus, a phalanger with a

woolly coat, the male of which has large black or brown spots on

a cream-coloured ground, while the female is uniform brown. This

animal ranges through the easternmost Malay islands from Celebes to

New Guinea and north Australia, while another species, the Grey

Cuscus, is found as far east as the Bismarck Archipelago and the

northern Solomon islands. These outlying groups of islands to the

east of New Guinea also possess a flying Phalanger, but otherwise

no marsupials penetrate into the Pacific islands beyond New Guinea

and Australia. For the rest, New Guinea has Short-legged Kangarus

(_Dorcopsis_), Tree Kangaroos (_Dendrolagus_), Striped Phalangers,

Dormice Phalangers, Flying Phalangers, Feather-tailed Phalangers,

Ring-tailed Phalangers, a species of white-spotted Dasyure

("Marsupial Cat"), and several forms of insectivorous marsupials

("Bandicoots" of the genera _Phascologale_ and _Perameles_). But the

true Kangarus--especially the big species--the Banded Ant-eater,

the Wombats (which look like huge rabbits), the Koala or Tailless

Phalanger (the "native bear"), the striped marsupial wolf or

Thylacine, the Tasmanian Devil, the Marsupial Mole, most of the

Dasyures and Bandicoots, are confined in their distribution to

Australia and Tasmania, Tasmania being the richest part of Australia

in marsupial types.

But this region, in common with New Guinea, possesses mammals

still more primitive and interesting than the marsupials--the

egg-laying sub-class, which contains the two existing forms of

Echidna (Porcupine Ant-eater) and Duckbill. The Duckbill, a furry

creature the size of a large cat, with the jaws converted into a

leathery beak, is only found in the south-east of Australia and in

Tasmania. The Echidna and Duckbill do not produce their young alive,

but lay eggs from which the young are hatched. Apart from these

marsupials and egg-laying mammals, Australia possesses only a few

species of the higher mammals: a wild dog, a number of rats--aquatic

and terrestrial--and bats; besides, of course, seals on the coasts

and rivers, and the strange Dugong.[9] The bats are both of the

insect-eating and fruit-eating kinds, and have probably flown over

in recent times from New Guinea. From the same direction likewise

have travelled the Australian rats, some of which have taken to

a water life. As to the Dingo or Wild Dog, that may have been

introduced by the early human inhabitants who came to Australia from

Malaysia, but it has inhabited Australia for a very long period,

though it did not reach Tasmania. It is related to a wild dog of

Java. There is said to be a wild dingo in New Guinea.

[9] The Dugong, very commonly met with in the early stories of

Australasian adventure, is an aquatic mammal, the size of a large

porpoise, which belongs to the order of the Sirenians. It frequents

the shores of estuaries and seacoasts with plenty of seaweed. It is

a vegetable feeder only. See p. 165.

Australian birds are very noteworthy. In the extreme north there

is the Cassowary, which elsewhere is only found in New Guinea, the

Bismarck Archipelago, and the Island of Ceram. Nearly the whole

of Australia, however, was at one time frequented by the Emu, a

large, flightless bird only second in size to the Ostrich. The

Emu once extended its range to Tasmania as well as to Kangaroo

Island, off the south coast of the continent. The Parrot order is

more abundantly represented in Australia than anywhere else. In

New Zealand and the tiny Norfolk Island there are species of a

remarkable type of Parrot--the Nestor--which has a very long beak,

not deep, like that of other parrots. The family of brush-tongued

Lories is represented in the island continent by many beautiful

forms. Here also developed originally the Cockatoos, which have

since spread to New Guinea and the eastern Malay islands. The True

Parrots and Parrakeets are well represented in New Guinea and

Australia, and assume in some cases the most lovely and delicate

coloration.

[Illustration: THE BIGGEST OF THE KANGAROOS

(From a specimen sent from Australia to the New York Zoological

Park)]

Amongst other noteworthy Australian birds is the Lyre Bird, in two

or three species. This is a distant connection of thrushes and

warblers, the size of a pheasant, and with very pheasantlike habits.

Although the colour of its body is simply brown of various tints,

the male bird has a most remarkable tail, the larger feathers of

which exactly reproduce the form of a lyre. This creature is one

of the minor wonders of the world, and it is therefore surprising

that the great Commonwealth of Australia should take no measures to

prevent its extermination at the hands of thoughtless and ignorant

settlers, for, unlike the cockatoos, it does no damage to crops.

Australia also possesses the Black Swan, and it has a

strange-looking, long-legged Goose, which has scarcely any web

between its toes. There are numerous Eagles and Hawks, but there

is no Vulture. There is also no True Crow, but there are Choughs

and many crow-like developments of the Shrike, Oriole, and

Starling groups, and in the extreme north of Australia, besides

one or two Birds of Paradise, there are the singular Bower Birds

(really belonging to the same family), who build little palaces

and ornamental gardens of sticks, shells, feathers, pebbles, and

other bright and attractive objects, as places in which they can go

through their courtship ceremonies. The mound-building Megapodes or

Brush Turkeys (which do not hatch their eggs by sitting on them,

but bury the egg in a mound of decaying vegetation) also inhabit

eastern and northern Australia, and are the only representatives

there of the gallinaceous order. Amongst Kingfishers is the

celebrated Laughing Jackass, which lives not on fish but on insects

and carrion. Australia has no Woodpeckers, no Hornbills, no Cuckoos,

and no True Pheasants, and a good many other bird families are

remarkable for their absence from this region.

The scenery of New Zealand, in contrast to that of Australia,

is nearly everywhere beautiful--as nature made it--though the

modern settlers have robbed the island of much of its loveliness

by cutting down the forests recklessly, destroying the ferns,

and shooting the song birds. In the North Island of New Zealand

are the most remarkable examples of volcanic activity, and this

region has, or had--for they sometimes disappear in earthquake

convulsions--beautiful crater lakes of deep blue or emerald green

and terraces of congealed lava or pumicestone that assume lovely

tints of pink, pale yellow, green or bluish grey.

The trees and plants of New Zealand have a character quite as

peculiar and distinct as those of Australia. Amongst them grow beech

trees similar to those of South Australia, and allied to the beeches

of South America. There are only two species of a single genus of

palm (_Rhopalostylis_), but there are many conifers allied to those

of New Guinea and South America rather than to the conifers of

Australia. The Kauri "pine" (_Agathis_) has been already mentioned.

None of the conifers of Australia, New Zealand, New Guinea, and

New Caledonia are "pines", "cedars", or "firs". The members of the

pine family are entirely restricted to the Northern Hemisphere.

The magnificent "pines" of New Caledonia and its adjacent islands

are Araucarias ("monkey puzzles"). Besides an abundance of ferns

(including the bracken), the undergrowth of New Zealand is chiefly

composed of Veronica bushes, of fuchsias, and calceolarias. New

Zealand has no deserts, and is blessed with a constant and a fairly

abundant rainfall. It is as unlike Australia in appearance as it

could well be, and much more resembles in general appearance our own

country of England or the southernmost parts of South America.

New Zealand and New Caledonia were evidently cut off from their

ancient connection with the New Hebrides and New Guinea before

mammals had spread in that direction. New Zealand was entirely

without any form of beast, except bats and seals, when first

colonized by the Maoris; but this Polynesian people brought with

them in their canoes a rat which they bred for eating, and a small,

foxy-looking, domestic dog. Of the bats there are two kinds:

one a small nocturnal bat, allied to the European Pipistrelle;

and the other a very remarkable and isolated form, a "day" bat

(_Mystacops_), which climbs about the trees, has very narrow

wings, and does not fly much. The seals on the coast, which made

New Zealand so attractive to the American and English whaling

ships, consisted of a "Sea Bear" (_Otaria_), the Sea Elephant (now

extinct), and four other large Antarctic species of true Seal. New

Zealand had no great variety in species of birds, which belonged

mainly to the Goose, Rail, Eagle, Parrot, Honeyeater, and Corvine

groups. Amongst the most noteworthy of modern New Zealand birds

are the Kaka Parrot of North Island and the handsome Kea Parrot

of the South Island (both of the genus _Nestor_). The last-named

has lately taken to attacking sheep. Another very interesting form

is the _Stringops_ or Tarapo Ground Parrot (sometimes called the

Owl Parrot). The Huia is a chough-like bird with orange wattles

and a beak which, though straight in the male is sickle-shaped in

the female. The Tui Honeyeater or parson bird has two delicate

white plumes below each cheek. But it is the extinct birds which

will always make New Zealand interesting. Amongst these was the

largest type of bird which has probably ever existed--the Moa. We

now know that besides Moas with long necks and small heads, which

stood about 12 feet high, and were bigger than ostriches, there

were other and much smaller types of the same order. One of these

still survives: it is the so-called wingless Apteryx, which comes

out at night, and with its long beak searches for worms. These Moas,

of many sorts and sizes, probably still lived in the three islands

of the New Zealand dominion when they were first discovered by the

Polynesians; but being without any adequate means of defence, and

quite unable to fly, they were soon exterminated, only the nocturnal

Apteryx remaining. It is possible that these great ostrich-like

birds reached New Zealand from the direction of Queensland and New

Caledonia. [New Caledonia possesses one bird, which is found nowhere

else in the world, though it has relations in South America. This

is the Kagu, a pretty, grey, heron-like creature, which is really a

sort of dwarf crane.] Two other remarkable bird developments once

existed in New Zealand: a large, flightless goose (_Cnemiornis_),

and a huge, thick-set Harpy Eagle (_Harpagornis_). This last no

doubt fed mainly on the Moas, and died out when they became extinct.

New Zealand has only one kind of frog, no snakes, no tortoises,

and only one true lizard (a Gecko), but it possesses all to itself

an indigenous reptile of the greatest possible interest. This is

the Tuatera (or _Sphenodon_), now restricted in its range to three

or four islets off the northernmost coasts of New Zealand. Once

this creature, which is about 3 to 4 feet long, ranged over the

whole of New Zealand. It has been killed out mainly by the white

settlers, and unless some effort is made will soon have disappeared

altogether. This would be a great pity, for it is one of the most

interesting of living things. It is the scarcely changed descendant

of a very early order of reptiles which came into being millions of

years ago and inhabited Europe and Asia.

Pioneers in Australasia · 第 1 / 10 章