The name was given by a Mr. Adams, who was then occupier of the farm at
the end of the lane. It was named at the time Porto Bello was captured.
In 1844 the farm was called Wise’s Farm, Mr. Wise being the owner.
The lane ended outside the Farm, and a gate opened to a pathway which
lead over a bridge on the canal to Kensal Green.
To the west of this Farm lay the old Farm of Knotting Barns, an ancient
brick building surrounded by spacious barns and outhouses. A road to
Kensal Green passed through the farm yard.
In 1844 this was known as Salter’s Farm, Mr. Salter being the proprietor.
In 1524 it is recorded in the will of Robert Fenrother, Alderman of
London, that Knotting Barns Farm consisted of 40 acres of land, 140 acres
of meadow, 200 acres of wood, 20 acres of moor, 20 acres of furze and
heath.
In 1543 Henry VIII. took this farm and land in exchange for some he had
held (in the _county of Southampton_). In 1675 it had decreased in size
and was reckoned as 130 acres. How many acres were connected with in
1844 I cannot record, but I have said that on all sides nothing but corn
or meadow land was visible. The site of Portobello Farm may be known as
upon that spot is erected a Roman Catholic building, a home for the aged.
Notting Barn Farm was at the lower part of St. Mark’s Road. Norland
House, where Norland Square was built in 1850 to 1856, was noted for its
artesian well which was sunk in 1794 by Mr. Vulliamy to the depth of 260
feet, when the water rose and overflowed at the rate of 46 gallons a
minute. The water was leased to 3 persons at 7/- each per week and sold
in the neighbourhood at 2/6 per ton, or ½d a pailful.
Thirty-eight years ago there were no houses from Notting Hill Terrace to
Acton with the exception of a few small houses opposite Shepherd’s Bush
Common. This Common had been notorious some years before as a place of
execution for highwaymen, and for years gibbets were standing there with
the remains of some of the fraternity dangling in the wind. I never saw
them, but when a boy I have seen the remains of pirates hanging by chains
by the river side past Greenwich. The Common was even till late years
claimed as the property of the inhabitants, some of whom claimed to the
last the right to turn out their horses or goats upon its scanty grass.
Behind the road of Notting Hill there was a lane called Pottery Lane. In
this lane was a place where tiles were made and at the end of the lane a
colony of pigkeepers. Every house here had a colony of the porcine
family in its yard. A number of carts filled with tubs passed daily to
London gathering refuse from hotels and mansions to feed the large
families of pigs gathered here.
It was not a savoury place and at the time of the cholera the inhabitants
suffered severely.
Rough looking people they appeared, but upon closer acquaintance it was
seen they looked more uncouth than they really were. The only religious
or secular education the people and children received was provided by the
members of the Baptist chapel at Silver Street, and the congregation at
Hornton Street. Their place of meeting for some years, was in an
unfinished house with its unplastered walls on two floors not divided
into separate rooms.
Their teachers were poor but they had love to God in their hearts and
proved it by their love to their neighbours.
Their names unrecorded on earth will never be forgotten by Him who said
“Inasmuch as ye did it to the least of these my brethren ye did it to
me.”
Beyond this colony I discovered another in Latimer Road where there was
no Sabbath teaching or secular education. In looking back I feel
grateful to God for the numbers I was enabled to gather together on the
Sabbath, both of adults and children and also for the many children who
received instruction in a day school I established. It is many years ago
but I meet with some now who thank God that in the Sabbath teaching there
they received that acquaintance with Jesus which has proved a blessing to
them and their children to the present time. But what a place it was
when I first discovered it—comparatively out of the world—a rough road
cut across the field, the only approach. Brickfields and pits on either
side, making it dangerous to leave on dark nights.
A safe place for many people who did not wish everybody to know what they
were doing. I am afraid that there were more _spirits_ about there than
there were either bodies or bottles to contain.
I could tell a great deal about Latimer Road in 1844 to 1850, but other
Pharoahs have arisen there who know not Joseph and they are doing a good
work in that which by the opening of a railway station has become a
well-known place.
Westbourne Grove was a pleasant Grove of small villas with gardens in
front and behind. Newton Road was a similar place.
The only road by which they could be approached was Black Lion Lane, now
Queen’s Road and a footpath across the field where Princes Square now
stands.
The Royal Oak was a country inn.
There were no houses of business then in the Grove, but where the Redan
and about twelve shops down the Grove stand, there was a nursery ground,
which in former times was a favourite resort of Queen Ann.
The inhabitants of the Grove were principally City or West-end men of
business, who reached their habitation by the Bayswater or Paddington
omnibuses.
These omnibuses belonged to two companies, the principal proprietors
were:—Messrs. Melliship, Treadaway, Carpenter and Grant.
The General Omnibus Company afterwards bought up all their vehicles.
There was also one omnibus, the “Eagle,” which ran from Kensington
Church, through Church Street, Bayswater Road, New Road, Islington to the
Bank.
There were no cab stands but a stray cab might often be found at the
Black Lion in the Bayswater Road or outside one of the other country
inns.
Queen’s Road (Black Lion Lane) was only partly built on and the houses
were small. A Wesleyan Chapel and Orphanage stood then on the site of
the Queen’s Road Chapel, and in 1846, a high house (about No. 153, since
taken by Mr. Whiteley) was erected for a Chartist Club House. It
afterwards became the Queen’s Hotel. The houses opposite the baths were
also built about 1846.
Porchester Terrace was only partially built, but on the west side resided
Mr. Linnel, an artist, whose paintings of corn fields, &c., are so much
admired by all who see them.
The reader may judge what sort of house the Royal Oak was by looking at
the newspaper shop a few doors away. Beyond this to the railway on both
sides of that which is now Bishop’s Road was a waste wilderness. I only
remember one house and that a wooden one which had an inscription “The
Cottage of Content.” It was a large basin-like piece of land and upon
this Westbourne Terrace, Gloucester Gardens, Bishop’s Road, the north end
of Porchester Terrace, and Craven Hill Road were built.
The Bishop of that day gave the deepest hole to the parishioners to build
a church—about the worst part of what was then his large estate. It cost
about £2,000 to fill up the hole to its present level before Trinity
Church could be built. This church, like others, the ratepayers paid for
with Church Rates. I had the pleasure of seconding a resolution to make
the _last Church rate in Paddington_.
St. Mary’s Hospital was commenced about 1845 and under its excellent
management has proved to be a great blessing to Paddington.
On the site of the Trinity Schools in the Harrow Road was a public Maze,
a great resort for holiday people as it was then completely in the
country. Here too was a magic mirror, in which for twopence any young
lady might behold (?) her future husband.
In the Harrow Road, opposite the Vestry Hall, stood until 1860, the
oldest charitable buildings in the parish, a block of small almshouses.
They afforded shelter for about 16 poor old women. No doubt they felt
more independent in their actions than they would have done in the
Workhouse. It is doubtful if they were so well cared for as they would
have been in the larger house with its excellent Master and Matron, who
take a great interest in the comfort of all the inmates.
They are not answerable for the separation of old married couples,
against which separation I strongly protest.
It is not, however, every married couple who wish to live together; of
this I had a proof once when I asked a man if he would not be more happy
with his aged wife? After a moment’s consideration he answered “Thank
you sir, I have had enough of her.” This I think must have been a rare
exception.
Kensal Green Cemetery had in 1844 already received not a few bodies but
the majority have been interred since.
Members of Silver Street Chapel used to look with deep interest at the
tomb of John Colston, a much-loved Superintendent of their Sabbath
School. With the same deep interest many look upon the grave of a later
Superintendent of the School at Westbourne Grove Chapel, the highly
esteemed Thomas Faulkes, whose memory is still dear. How many a member
of the old and also of the new Westbourne Grove Chapel have gone with sad
hearts to that God’s acre. To mention names would be painful to both
reader and writer; I only add “Till He come.”
A few names of public men and women buried here will, perhaps not, be out
of place:—
Duke of Sussex, Sydney Smith, Anne Scott and Sophia Lockhart, daughters
of Sir Walter Scott, John Hugh Lockhart his grandson, Thomas Hood,
Thackeray, Calcott, Mulready, John Leach, John Cassel, The Princess
Sophia of Gloucester, Statesmen, Poets, Actors, Artists, Physicians and
Quacks. The rich and the poor have all found here one common resting
place, but amongst those unmentioned names how many an one whom the world
has not esteemed will be found in the end to be among the number of whom
the “world was not worthy.”
In writing the history of the transformation of Notting Hill from country
to its present condition I must mention a gentleman, the Rev. Mr. Walker,
who it was said came to the neighbourhood with half a million sterling to
invest. Who were his advisers I do not know; but he was not long in
causing hundreds of carcases of houses to be built. If he had commenced
his operations on the London side of the estate no doubt the houses would
have sold and a fine investment made, but as he preferred building from
Clarendon Road (where roads were not made) towards London the land was
covered with unfinished houses which continued in a ruinous condition for
years and the consequence was the investor was almost ruined.
This gentleman built All Saints Church and intended to put upon it a
spire as high as that on Salisbury Cathedral. Sad tales could be told of
not a few who sank their all in bricks and mortar. Lawyers and
money-lenders have in time past reaped a rich harvest at Notting Hill,
but many a hard working man falling into their hands has been ruined.
Between Richmond Road and Ledbury Road is a road called Artesian Road.
This is in remembrance of an artesian well which was sunk there. The
water was very pure and cold and houses in Ledbury Road and in its
neighbourhood were supplied with water from this well until the water
companies bought it up.
The Richmond Road was built about 1848. Mr. Plimley, fruiterer, and Mr.
Anderson, confectioner, are the oldest inhabitants. Sutherland Place,
Courtnell Street, Archer Street, were built about 1850. The first two
houses built in Portobello Road stood for many years unfinished and were
called “_The Folly_.”
The house now occupied by the London Photographic Co’s studio at the
corner of Norfolk Terrace was built in the middle of a field, and for
some time seemed likely also to be called _The Folly_, and certainly in
its solitary position it looked for some time very foolish, but the
builders knew what was likely to follow better than those who were not in
the secret.
But even they could not have thought that the quiet Westbourne Grove of
their day would ever become the busy place it is now with its
enterprizing men of business and its crowded thoroughfares.