Geographical position of the island--Its size--The climate--Advice
to invalids--Glance at the principal cities--Matanzas--Puerto
Principe--Santiago de Cuba--Trinidad--The writer's first view of
Havana--Importance of the capital--Its literary
institutions--Restriction on Cuban youths and education--Glance at
the city streets--Style of architecture--Domestic arrangements of
town houses--A word about Cuban ladies--Small feet--Grace of manners
and general characteristics.
Having thus briefly glanced at the political story of Cuba, let us now
pass to a consideration of such peculiarities of climate, soil and
population, as would naturally interest a stranger on visiting the
island. The form, geographically speaking, of Cuba, is quite irregular,
and resembles the blade of a Turkish scimeter slightly curved back, or
approaching the form of a long, narrow crescent. It stretches away in
this shape from east to west, throwing its western end into a curve, as
if to form an impregnable barrier to the outlet of the Gulf of Mexico;
and as if, at some ancient period, it had formed a part of the American
continent, and had been severed on its north side from the Florida
peninsula by the wearing of the Gulf-stream, and from Yucatan, on its
south-western point, by a current setting into the gulf. Its political
position all concede to be of the most vital importance to the United
States; and this will be apparent to any one, from the slightest
inspection of the map.
It is the most westerly of the West Indian isles, and, compared with the
rest, has nearly twice as much superficial extent of territory. Its
greatest extent, from east to west, is about six hundred miles; its
narrowest part, twenty-two miles. The circumference is about two
thousand miles, containing some thirty-two thousand square miles.[13]
The narrow form of the island, and the Cordillera chain of mountains,
which divides it throughout its whole length, leave a very limited
course for its rivers and streams; and consequently these in the rainy
season become torrents, and during the rest of the year are nearly dried
up. Those that sustain themselves throughout the year are well stocked
with delicate and finely-flavored fish.
Probably no place on the earth has a finer or more desirable climate
than has the main portion of Cuba;[14] with the clear atmosphere of the
low latitudes, no mist, the sun seldom obscured, and the appearance of
the stars and sky at night far brighter and more beautiful than at the
north.[15] The atmosphere does not seem to lose its transparency with
the departure of day. Sunset is ever remarkable for its soft, mellow
beauty here, and the long twilight that follows it. For many years the
island has been the resort of the northern invalid in search of health,
especially of those laboring under pulmonary affections; the soft,
soothing power of the climate having a singularly healing influence, as
exercised in the balmy trade-winds.[16] The climate so uniformly soft
and mild, the vegetation so thriving and beautiful, the fruits so
delicious and abundant, seem to give it a character almost akin to that
we have seen described in tales of fairy land.
The declining health of a beloved companion was the motive which induced
the author of these pages to visit the delightful climate of Cuba, with
the hope that its genial and kindly influence might revive her physical
powers; nor were these hopes disappointed; for, transplanted from the
rough climate of our own New England, immediate and permanent
improvement was visible. To persons in the early stages of pulmonary
complaints the West Indies hold forth great promise of relief; and, at
the period when invalid New Englanders most require to avoid their own
homes, namely, during the prevailing east winds of April, May and June,
the island of Cuba is in the glory of high summer, and enjoying the
healthiest period of its yearly returns. After the early part of June,
the unacclimated would do well to take passage up the gulf to New
Orleans, and come gradually north with the advancing season. From the
proximity of Cuba in the north-western parts to our own continent, the
climate is variable, and a few hundred feet above the level of the sea
ice is sometimes formed, but snow never falls upon the island, though it
is occasionally visited in this region by hail storms. In the cities and
near the swamps, the yellow fever, that scourge of all hot climates,
prevails from the middle of June to the last of October; but in the
interior of the island, where the visitor is at a wholesome distance
from humidity and stagnant water, it is no more unhealthy than our own
cities in summer. It is doubtful if Havana, even in the fever season, is
as unhealthy as New Orleans during the same period of the year.
The principal cities of the island are Havana, with a population of
about two hundred thousand; Matanzas, twenty-five thousand; Puerto
Principe, fourteen thousand; Santiago de Cuba, thirty thousand;
Trinidad, thirteen thousand; St. Salvador, eight thousand; Manzanilla,
three thousand; Cardenas, Nuevitas, Sagua la Grande, Mariel, etc. etc.
Cuba abounds in fine large harbors; those of Havana, Niepe and Nuevitas,
are among the best. The bay of Matanzas is also capacious; Cardenas and
the roadstead of Sagua la Grande have plenty of water for brigs and
schooners. Matanzas,[17] though second to Puerto Principe in point of
inhabitants, yet stands next to Havana in commercial importance, and is
said to be much healthier than the capital. It is located in a valley in
one of the most fertile portions of the island, the city extending from
the flat sea-shore up to the picturesque and verdant heights by which
the town is surrounded in the form of an amphitheatre. The
fortifications are of rather a meagre character. The custom-house is the
most prominent building which strikes the eye on approaching the city by
water, and is an elegant structure of stone, but one story high, built
at the early part of the present century. On the heights above the city,
the inhabitants have planted their country seats, and from the bay the
whole scene is most delightfully picturesque. There are two fine
churches in Matanzas, and a second-class theatre, cock-pit, etc.
Statistics show the custom-house receipts of the port to exceed the
large sum of a million and a half dollars annually. Besides the railroad
leading to Havana, there is another leading to the interior and bearing
southward, of some thirty or forty miles in length. On all the Cuban
railroads you ride in American-built cars, drawn by American-built
engines, and conducted by American engineers. The back country from
Matanzas is rich in sugar and coffee plantations.
Puerto Principe is the capital of the central department of the island,
and is situated in the interior. The trade of the place, from the want
of water-carriage, is inconsiderable, and bears no proportion to the
number of inhabitants. What ever portion of the produce of Puerto
Principe and its immediate neighborhood is exported, must find its way
first to Nuevitas, twelve and a half leagues distant, from whence it is
shipped, and from whence it receives in return its foreign supplies. It
is situated about one hundred and fifty miles from Havana. Its original
locality, when founded by Velasquez, was Nuevitas, but the inhabitants,
when the place was feeble in numbers and strength, were forced to remove
to this distance inland, to avoid the fierce incursions of the
Buccaneers, who thronged the coast.
Santiago de Cuba has a noble harbor, and is defended by a miniature Moro
Castle, being a well-planned fortress after the same style, and known as
_El Moro_. This city was founded in 1512, and is the capital of the
eastern department of the island, but has at various times suffered
severely from earthquakes, and within a couple of years was visited by
the cholera, which swept off some five or six thousand of its population
in about the same number of weeks. Santiago, though it now presents many
features of decay, and its cathedral is closed for fear of disaster
occurring if it should be occupied, is yet the third city on the island
in a commercial point of view. The immediate neighborhood of the city
being mountainous and somewhat sterile, produces little sugar, but the
many fine coffee estates, and several vast copper mines of uncomputed
extent and value, which have been worked by English companies, give it
much importance. It is two hundred and thirty leagues from Havana, on
the south coast.
Trinidad, situated about a league from Casilda, on the south coast, and
ninety miles from Havana, is probably one of the healthiest and
pleasantest locations for invalids on the island. It lies at the base of
a ridge of mountains that protect it from the north wind, and is free
from all humidity, with that great blessing, good water, at hand, an
article which unfortunately is very scarce in Cuba.
Our first view of Moro Castle was gained from the quarter-deck, after a
fifteen days' voyage; it was just as the sun was dipping into the sea,
too late for us to enter the harbor, for the rules of the port are
rigorously observed, and we were obliged to stand off and on through the
night. At early morning our jack was set at the fore as a signal for a
pilot, and at noon we had answered the rough peremptory hail from the
castle, and dropped anchor in the safe and beautiful harbor of the
capital. The scene was absorbingly interesting to a stranger. Around us
floated the flags of many nations, conspicuous among which were the
gallant stars and stripes. On the one side lay the city, on a low, level
plain, while the hills that make the opposite side of the harbor
presented a beautiful picture of the soft green sward and the luxuriant
verdure that forms the constant garb of the tropics.
As Paris is said to be France, so is Havana Cuba, and its history
embraces in no small degree that of all the island, being the centre of
its talent, wealth and population. Every visible circumstance proclaims
the great importance of the city, even to the most casual observer.
Moro Castle[18] frowning over the narrow entrance of the harbor, the
strong battery answering to it on the opposite point, and known as La
Punta, the long range of cannon and barracks on the city side, the
powerful and massive fortress of the Cabanas[19] crowning the hill
behind the Moro, all speak unitedly of the immense importance of the
place. Havana is the heart of Cuba, and will never be yielded unless the
whole island be given up; indeed, the possessors of this strong-hold
command the whole Spanish West Indies. The bay, shaped like an outspread
hand, the wrist for the entrance, is populous with the ships of all
nations,[20] and the city, with its 200,000 inhabitants, is a depot of
wealth and luxury. With an enormous extent of public buildings,
cathedrals, antique and venerable churches and convents, with the
palaces of nobles and private gentlemen of wealth, all render this
capital of Cuba probably the richest place for its number of square rods
in the world.
Beside the Royal University of Havana, a medical and law school, and
chairs on all the natural sciences, it contains many other institutions
of learning. It is true that, in spite of their liberal purpose and
capability, there is a blight, as it were, hanging over them all. Pupils
enlist cautiously, suffer undue restraint, and in spite of themselves
seem to feel that there is an unseen influence at work against the
spirit of these advantages. Among the schools are a Royal Seminary for
girls, a free school of sculpture and painting, a mercantile school,
also free, with many private institutions of learning, of course not to
be compared in ability or general advantages to like institutions with
us. There is a fine museum of Natural History, and just outside the city
walls a very extensive botanical garden. No one, even among the
islanders, who would be supposed to feel the most pride in the subject,
will for a moment deny, however, that the means for education are very
limited in Cuba. An evidence of this is perceptibly evinced by the fact
that the sons of the planters are almost universally sent abroad, mostly
to this country, for educational purposes. An order was not long since
promulgated, by direction of the home government, in which the
inhabitants are forbidden to send their children to the United States,
for the purpose of education. A bold, decided order.
Of course the reason for this is quite apparent, and is openly
acknowledged in Havana, viz:--that these youths, during their residence
here, adopt liberal ideas and views of our republican policy, which
become fixed principles with them; nor is there any doubt of this being
the case, for such students as have thus returned, unhesitatingly
(among friends) avow their sentiments, and most ardently express a hope
for Cuban independence; and this class, too, upon the island are far
more numerous than might at first be supposed. Those who have been
educated in France, Germany, and England, seem at once to imbibe the
spirit of those youths who have returned from the United States, and
long before there was any open demonstration relative to the first Lopez
expedition, these sons of the planters had formed themselves into a
secret society, which is doubtless still sustained, with the avowed
purpose of exercising its ability and means to free Cuba, sooner or
later, from the Spanish yoke.
The city of Havana is surrounded by a high wall and ditch, and its gates
are always strictly guarded by soldiery, no stranger being permitted to
pass unchallenged. The streets, which are extremely narrow, are all
Macadamized, and cross each other at right angles, like those of
Philadelphia and some other American cities. There are no sidewalks,
unless a narrow line of flag-stones which are level with the surface of
the street may be so called. Indeed, the people have little use for
sidewalks, for they drive almost universally about town in place of
walking, being thus borne about in that peculiar vehicle, a volante. A
woman of respectability is never seen on foot in the streets, and this
remark, as singular as it may sound to our Broadway and
Washington-street belles, is applicable even to the humblest classes;
unless, indeed, it be the fruit women from the country, with their
baskets richly laden upon their heads, while they cry the names of
their tempting burdens in the long drawling Spanish style.
The architecture of the city houses is exceedingly heavy, giving to them
an appearance of great age. They are constructed so as almost
universally to form squares in their centres, which constitutes the only
yard which the house can have, and upon which the lofty arches of the
corridor look down. The lower story is always occupied as storeroom,
kitchen, and stable, (think of a suite of drawing-rooms over a stable!)
while the universal volante blocks up in part the only entrance to the
house. From this inner court-yard a wide flight of steps leads to the
second story, from the corridor of which all the rooms open, giving them
an opening front and rear on two sides at least. As peculiar as this
mode of building may seem, it is nevertheless well adapted to the
climate, and one becomes exceedingly well satisfied with the
arrangement.
An air of rude grandeur reigns over all the structure, the architecture
being mainly Gothic and Saracenic. The rooms are all lofty, and the
floors are stuccoed or tiled, while the walls and ceilings are
frequently ornamented in fresco, the excellence of the workmanship of
course varying in accordance with the owner's or occupant's means, and
his ability to procure an artist of high or _mediocre_ talent. But the
most striking peculiarity of the town house in Cuba, is the great care
taken to render it safe against assault. Every man's house is literally
his castle here, each accessible window being barricaded with iron
bars, while large massive folding doors secure the entrance to the
house, being bullet proof and of immense strength. No carpets are seen
here, and from the neighboring Isle of Pines, which lies off the
southern shore of Cuba, a thick slate is found, also marble and jasper
of various colors, which are cut in squares, and form the general
material for floors in the dwelling-houses. The heat of the climate
renders carpets, or even wooden floors, quite insupportable, and they
are very rarely to be found.
We have said that the Creole ladies never stir abroad except in the
national volante, and whatever their domestic habits may be, they are
certainly, in this respect, good _house-keepers_. A Cuban belle could
never, we fancy, be made to understand the pleasures of that most
profitless of all employments, spinning street-yarn. While our ladies
are busily engaged in sweeping the sidewalks of Chestnut-street and
Broadway with their silk flounces, she wisely leaves that business to
the gangs of criminals who perform the office with their limbs chained,
and a ball attached to preserve their equilibrium. It is perhaps in part
owing to these habits that the feet of the Cuban senorita are such a
marvel of smallness and delicacy, seemingly made rather for ornament
than for use. She knows the charm of the _petit pied bien chausse_ that
delights the Parisian, and accordingly, as you catch a glimpse of it, as
she steps into the volante, you perceive that it is daintily shod in a
French slipper, the sole of which is scarcely more substantial in
appearance than writing paper.[21]
The feet of the Havana ladies are made for ornament and for dancing.
Though with a roundness of figure that leaves nothing to be desired in
symmetry of form, yet they are light as a sylph, clad in muslin and
lace, so languid and light that it would seem as if a breeze might waft
them away like a summer cloud. They are passionately fond of dancing,
and tax the endurance of the gentlemen in their heroic worship of
Terpsichore. Inspired by the thrilling strains of those Cuban airs,
which are at once so sweet and brilliant, they glide or whirl through
the mazes of the dance hour after hour, until daylight breaks upon the
scene of fairy revel. Then, "exhausted but not satiated," they betake
themselves to sleep, to dream of the cadences of some Cuban Strauss, and
to beat time in imagination to the lively notes, and to dream over the
soft words and winning glances they have exchanged.
Beautiful as eastern houris, there is a striking and endearing charm
about the Cuban ladies, their very motion being replete with a native
grace; every limb elastic and supple. Their voices are sweet and low,
"an excellent thing in woman," and the subdued tone of their complexions
is relieved by the arch vivacity of night-black eyes that alternately
swim in melting lustre or sparkle in expressive glances. Their costume
is never ostentatious, though costly; the most delicate muslin, the
finest linen, the richest silk, the most exquisitely made satin
shoes,--these, of course, render their chaste attire exceedingly
expensive. There are no "strong-minded" women among them, nor is it
hardly possible to conceive of any extremity that could induce them to
get up a woman's right convention--a suspension of fans and volantes
might produce such a phenomenon, but we very much doubt it.
The Creole ladies lead a life of decided ease and pleasure. What little
work they do is very light and lady-like, a little sewing or embroidery;
the bath and the _siesta_ divide the sultry hours of the day. They wait
until nearly sunset for the drive in the dear volante, and then go to
respond by sweet smiles to the salutations of the _caballeros_ on the
Paseos, and after the long twilight to the Plaza de Armas, to listen to
the governor's military band, and then perhaps to join the mazy dance.
Yet they are capable of deep and high feeling, and when there was a
prospect of the liberation of the island, these fair patriots it will be
remembered gave their most precious jewels and ornaments as a
contribution to the glorious cause of liberty.
FOOTNOTES:
[13] Humboldt's calculation makes it contain forty-three thousand, three
hundred and eighty square miles; but other estimates approximate more
nearly our own statement.
[14] According to Dr. Finlay, a resident physician on the island, its
hottest months are July and August, when the mean temperature is from
80 deg. to 83 deg. Fahrenheit.
[15] "The nights are very dark, but the darkness is as if transparent;
the air is not felt. There could not be more beautiful nights in
Paradise."--_Miss Bremer's Letters._
[16] When consumption _originates_ in Cuba, it runs its course so
rapidly that there is, perhaps, no wonder the Creoles should deem it, as
they universally do, to be contagious.
[17] The first lines of this city were traced on Saturday, the 10th of
October, 1693, by Senor Manzaneda, under whose government it was
founded. It was named San Carlos Alcazar de Matanzas; the last word,
that by which it is known, signifying the slaughter of a battle-field.
[18] Moro Castle was first built in 1633; the present structure was
erected on the ruins of the first, destroyed by the English in 1762.
[19] Built by Charles III., and said to have cost the sum of $7,000,000.
According to Rev. L.L. Allen's lecture on Cuba, it was more than forty
years in building.
[20] The port of Havana is one of the best harbors in the world. It has
a very narrow entrance, but spreads immediately into a vast basin,
embracing the whole city, and large enough to hold a thousand ships of
war.--_Alexander H. Everett._
[21] "Her hands and feet are as small and delicate as those of a child.
She wears the finest satin slippers, with scarcely any soles, which,
luckily, are never destined to touch the street."--_Countess Merlin's
Letters._