The table shown in the accompanying sketch is especially appropriate for
the den; it might be used in any other part of the house as well. It may
be built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed white oak. The wood
should be thoroughly seasoned and devoid of imperfections.
Order the material as follows:
1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S.
4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S.
2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S.
4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S.
Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut the four legs to
length. To get the slopes for the ends of the legs and the shoulders of
the tenons, lay out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel
along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines.
[Illustration: Table Completed]
The top horizontals have grooves cut on either side to allow the posts
to "set in." This is to give the frame more rigidity. The lower
horizontals or stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and keyed.
That the keys may be alike in size, a good plan is to make them first,
then make the mortises in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to
the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so, then to length and
joint one edge straight and square. Next lay off across the key the
lines A and B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and B 3/8
in. Draw a sloping line through these points and work this edge of the
key to size and shape. Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise,
in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in. for the top
opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.
[Illustration: Detail of a Den Table]
The most satisfactory finish for mission designs, and the easiest to
apply, is wax. It is an old finish that was superseded by varnish. Our
ancestors used to make wax polish by "cutting" beeswax with turpentine.
Cut up the beeswax and add to it about one-third its volume of
turpentine. Heat to the boiling point in a double boiler. Or, melt a
quantity of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine. Care
must be taken that the turpentine shall not catch fire.
Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased now-a-days. They
require a smooth surface and a thin application for a successful result.
Too much wax upon a rough surface will produce very ugly, white,
chalk-like spottings as the wax dries. These are especially noticeable
upon dark finishes. Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not
necessary if the ordinary wax is properly applied. 1--Stain the wood, if
a very dark finish is desired. 2--If the wood is coarse grained, put on
one or two coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a smooth
surface may be prepared. Allow the stain 12 hours in which to dry, also
each coat of filler. 3--With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax
as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste form. 4--Allow this
to stand five or ten minutes, then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to
polish. 5--Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat.
[Illustration: WINDOW SEAT Fig. 1--The Rough Cedar Box Without the
Covering]