The accompanying picture shows a stand that is intended primarily for
holding a large-size dictionary. The shelves may be utilized for holding
books, magazines or sheet music. It will stand wear best if made of some
hard wood, such as oak. Of the soft woods chestnut has the best grain
for finishing, being hardly distinguishable from red oak.
The following pieces will be necessary:
2 sides, 3/4 by 16 by 38-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 13-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
1 top, 3/4 by 13 by 17 in., S-2-S.
1 lip, 3/8 by 3/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
8 keys, 3/4 by 1 by 3-1/2 in., S-2-S.
Begin work on the sides by preparing a joint edge on each piece and from
this square up the lower ends and square lines across the inner
surfaces to indicate the positions of the lower edges of the shelves.
Next, smooth off the mill marks from the broad surfaces of the shelves
and square them to size on one edge and the two ends.
[Illustration: Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand]
[Illustration: Stand Made in Oak]
Return to the side pieces and lay out the outline, but do not cut to
these lines until the gains and mortises which are to receive the ends
of the shelves and their tenons have been laid out and cut. Laying out
these outlines at this time is done so as to give the exact width the
shelves are to have. These dimensions can be determined by measuring
across the sides between the outlines at the points where the shelves
are to be placed.
The shelves which have no tenons are to be let into the sides 1/4 in.
They should be shouldered 1/2 in. back from the edge so that the groove
will not show on the face.
The lip on the front of the top shelf may be fastened by means of very
small brads, the heads of which should be covered with putty, colored to
match the finish.
A suitable finish may be obtained as follows:
First see that all the mill marks are removed, using a smooth plane and
steel scraper and sandpaper, then apply a coat of cathedral-oak water
stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No. 00 paper. Apply a second
coat of stain, diluting it by the addition of an equal volume of water.
This is to produce a stronger contrast. Sand this lightly and put on a
very thin coat of shellac to bind the filler and to prevent the stain in
the filler which follows from discoloring the high lights. Sand this
lightly and put on a coat of paste filler according to the directions
that will be found on the can. This filler should be colored in the
following proportions: Light paste filler, 20 lb.; Van Dyke brown, 1 lb.
After the filler has hardened, sand it lightly and put on a coat of
orange shellac. Follow this with several coats of some good rubbing
varnish. The first coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled hair,
and the last with powdered pumice stone and raw linseed or crude oil.