which I intermingle thus with my proiects and reasons, not being
so sufficiently yet acquainted in those parts, to write fully the
estate of the Sea, the Ayre, the Land, the Fruites, the Rocks, the
People, the Government, Religion, Territories, and Limitations,
Friends, and Foes: but, as I gathered from the niggardly relations
in a broken language to my understanding, during the time I ranged
those countries &c. The most Northren part I was at, was the Bay of
Pennobscot, ♦_Penobscot_♦ which is East and West, North and South,
more then ten leagues: but such were my occasions, I was constrained
to be satisfied of them I found in the Bay, that the River ranne
farre up into the Land, and was well inhabited with many people, but
they were from their habitations, either fishing among the Iles, or
hunting the Lakes and Woods, for Deer and Bevers. The Bay is full
of great Ilands, of one, two, six, eight, or ten miles in length,
which divides it into many faire and excellent good harbours. On
the East of it, are the Tarrantines, their mortall enemies, where
inhabit the French, as they report that live with those people, as
one nation or family. And Northwest of Pennobscot is Mecaddacut,
at the foot of a high mountaine, a kinde of fortresse against the
Tarrantines, adioyning to the high mountaines of Pennobscot, against
whose feet doth beat the Sea: But over all the Land, Iles, or other
impediments, you may well see them sixteene or eighteene leagues from
their situation. Segocket is the next; then Nusconcus, Pemmaquid,
and Sagadahock. Up this river where was the westerne plantation are
Aumuckcawgen, Kinnebeck, and divers others, where there is planted
some corne fields. Along this River 40 or 50 miles, I saw nothing but
great high cliffes of barren Rocks, overgrowne with wood: but where
the Salvages dwelt there the ground is exceeding fat and fertill.
Westward of this River, is the Countrey of Aucocisco, in the bottome
of a large deepe Bay, full of many great Iles, which divides it into
many good harbours. Sowocotuck is the next, in the edge of a large
sandy Bay, which hath many Rocks and Iles, but few good harbours,
but for Barks, I yet know. But all this Coast to Pennobscot, and as
farre I could see Eastward of it is nothing but such high craggy
Cliffy Rocks and stony Iles, that I wondered such great trees could
growe upon so hard foundations. It is a Countrie rather to affright,
then delight one. And how to describe a more plaine spectacle of
desolation or more barren I knowe not. Yet the Sea there is the
strangest fish-pond I ever saw; and those barren Iles so furnished
with good woods, springs, fruits, fish, and fowle, that it makes
mee thinke though the Coast be rockie, and thus affrightable; the
Vallies, Plaines, and interior parts, may well (notwithstanding)
be verie fertile. But there is no kingdom so fertile hath not some
part barren: and New England is great enough, to make many Kingdomes
and Countries, were it all inhabited. As you passe the Coast still
Westward, Accominticus and Passataquack are two convenient harbors
for small barks; and a good Countrie, within their craggie cliffs.
Angoam is the next; This place might content a right curious
iudgement: but there are many sands at the entrance of the harbor:
and the worst is, it is inbayed too farre from the deepe Sea. Heere
are many rising hilles, and on their tops and descents many corne
fields, and delightfull groves. On the East, is an Ile of two or
three leagues in length; the one halfe, plaine morish grasse fit for
pasture, with many faire high groves of mulberrie trees gardens: and
there is also Okes, Pines, and other woods to make this place an
excellent habitation, beeing a good and safe harbor.
Naimkeck though it be more rockie ground (for Angoam is sandie)
not much inferior; neither for the harbor, nor any thing I could
perceive, but the multitude of people. From hence doth stretch into
the Sea the faire headland Tragabigzanda, fronted with three Iles
called the three Turks heads: to the North of this, doth enter a
great Bay, where wee founde some habitations and corne fields: they
report a great River, and at least thirtie habitations, doo possesse
this Countrie. But because the French had got their trade, I had no
leasure to discover it. The Iles of Mattahunts are on the West side
of this Bay, where are many Iles, and questionlesse good harbors:
and then the Countrie of the Massachusets, which is the Paradise of
all those parts: for, heere are many Iles all planted with corne;
groves, mulberries, salvage gardens, and good harbors: the Coast is
for the most part, high clayie sandie cliffs. The Sea Coast as you
passe, shewes you all along large corne fields, and great troupes
of well proportioned people: but the French having remained heere
neere sixe weekes, left nothing for us to take occasion to examine
the inhabitants relations, viz. if there be neer three thousand
people upon these Iles; and that the River doth pearce many daies
iourneis the intralles of that Countrey. We found the people in those
parts verie kinde; but in their furie no lesse valiant. For, upon
a quarrell wee had with one of them, hee onely with three others
crossed the harbor of Quonahassit to certaine rocks whereby wee must
passe; and there let flie their arrowes for our shot, till we were
out of danger.
Then come you to Accomack, an excellent good harbor, good land;
and no want of any thing, but industrious people. After much
kindnesse, upon a small occasion, wee fought also with fortie or
fiftie of those: though some were hurt, and some slaine; yet within
an houre after they became friendes. Cape Cod is the next presents
it selfe: which is onely a headland of high hils of sand, ♦_Cape
Cod_♦ overgrowne with shrubbie pines, hurts, and such trash; but an
excellent harbor for all weathers. This Cape is made by the maine Sea
on the one side, and a great Bay on the other in forme of a sickle:
on it doth inhabit the people of Pawmet: and in the bottome of the
Bay, the people of Chawum. Towards the South and South west of this
Cape, is found a long and dangerous shoale of sands and rocks. But so
farre as I incircled it, I found thirtie fadom water aboard the shore
and a strong current: which makes mee think there is a Channell about
this shoale; where is the best and greatest fish to be had, Winter
and Summer, in all that Countrie. But, the Salvages say there is no
Channell, but that the shoales beginne from the maine at Pawmet, to
the Ile of Nausit; and so extends beyond their knowledge into the
Sea. The next to this is Capawack, and those abounding Countries of
copper, corne, people, and mineralls; which I went to discover this
last yeare: but because I miscarried by the way, I will leave them,
till God please I have better acquaintance with them.
The Massachusets, they report, sometimes have warres with the
Bashabes of Pennobscot; and are not alwaies friends with them of
Chawum and their alliants: but now they are all friends, and have
each trade with other, so farre as they have societie, on each others
frontiers. For they make no such voiages as from Pennobscot to Cape
Cod; seldom to Massachewset. In the North (as I have said) they
begunne to plant corne, whereof the South part hath such plentie, as
they have what they will from them of the North; and in the Winter
much more plenty of fish and foule: but both Winter and Summer hath
it in the one part or other all the yeare; being the meane and most
indifferent temper, betwixt heat and colde, of all the regions
betwixt the Lyne and the Pole: but the furs Northward are much
better, and in much more plentie, then Southward.
The remarkablest Iles and mountains for Landmarkes are these; The
highest Ile or Sorico, in the Bay of Pennobscot: but the three Iles
and a rock of Matinnack are much furder in the Sea; Metinicus is also
three plaine Iles and a rock, betwixt it and Monahigan: Monahigan is
a rounde high Ile; and close by it Monanis, betwixt which is a small
harbor where we ride. In Damerils Iles is such another: Sagadahock
is knowne by Satquin, and foure or five Iles in the mouth. Smyths
Iles are a heape together, none neere them, against Accominticus. The
three Turks heads are three Iles seen far to Sea-ward in regard of
the head-land.
The cheefe headlands are onely Cape Tragabigzanda and Cape Cod.
The cheefe mountaines, them of Pennobscot: the twinkling mountaine of
Aucocisco; the greate mountaine of Sasanou; and the high mountaine
of Massachusit: each of which you shall finde in the Mappe; their
places, formes, and altitude. The waters are most pure, proceeding
from the intrals of rockie mountaines; the hearbes and fruits are of
many sorts and kindes: as alkermes, currans, or a fruit like currans,
mulberries, vines, respices, goosberries, plummes, walnuts, chesnuts,
small nuts, &c. pumpions, gourds, strawberries, beans, pease, and
mayze: a kinde or two of flax, wherewith they make nets, lines and
ropes both small and great, verie strong for their quantities.
Oke, is the chiefe wood; of which there is great difference in regard
of the soyle where it groweth, firre, pyne, walnut, chestnut, birch,
ash, elme, cypresse, ceder, mulberrie, plum-tree, hazell, saxefrage,
and many other sorts.
Eagles, Gripes, diverse sorts of Haukes, Cranes, Geese, Brants,
Cormorants, Ducks, Sheldrakes, Teale, Meawes, Guls, Turkies,
Dive-doppers, and many other sorts, whose names I knowe not.
Whales, Grampus, Porkpisces, Turbot, Sturgion, Cod, Hake, Haddock,
Cole, Cusk, or small Ling, Shark, Mackerrell, Herring, Mullet, Base,
Pinacks, Cunners, Pearch, Eels, Crabs, Lobsters, Muskles, Wilkes,
Oysters, and diverse others &c.
Moos, a beast bigger than a Stagge; Deere, red, and Fallow; Bevers,
Wolves, Foxes, both blacke and other; Aroughconds, Wild-cats, Beares,
Otters, Martins, Fitches, Musquassus, and diverse sorts of vermine,
whose names I know not. All these and divers other good things do
heere, for want of use, still increase, and decrease with little
diminution, whereby they growe to that abundance. You shall scarce
finde any Baye, shallow shore or Cove of sand, where you may not
take many Clampes, or Lobsters, or both at your pleasure, and in
many places lode your boat if you please; Nor Iles where you finde
not fruits, birds, crabs, and muskles, or all of them, for taking,
at a lowe water. And in the harbors we frequented, a little boye
might take of Cunners, and Pinacks, and such delicate fish, at the
ships sterne, more than sixe or tenne can eate in a daie; but with a
casting net, thousands when wee pleased: and scarce any place, but
Cod, Cuske, Holybut, Mackerell, Scate, or such like, a man may take
with a hooke or line what he will. And, in diverse sandy Baies, a man
may draw with a net great store of Mullets, Bases, and diverse other
sorts of such excellent fish, as many as his Net can drawe on shore:
no River where there is not plentie of Sturgion, or Salmon, or both;
all which are to be had in abundance observing but their seasons.
But if a man will goe at Christmasse to gather Cherries in Kent, he
may be deceived; though there be plentie in Summer: so, heere these
plenties have each their seasons, as I have expressed. We for the
most part had little but bread and vinegar: and though the most part
of Iuly when the fishing decaied they wrought all day, laie abroade
in the Iles all night, and lived on what they found, yet were not
sicke: But I would wish none put himself long to such plunges; except
necessitie constraine it: yet worthy is that person to starve that
heere cannot live; if he have sense, strength and health: for there
is no such penury of these blessings in any place, but that a hundred
men may, in one houre or two, make their provisions for a day: and
hee that hath experience to manage well these affaires, with fortie
or thirtie honest industrious men, might well undertake (if they
dwell in these parts) to subiect the Salvages, and feed daily two or
three hundred men, with as good corne, fish and flesh, as the earth
hath of those kindes, and yet make that labor but their pleasure:
provided that they have engins, that be proper for their purposes.
Who can desire more content, that hath small meanes; or but only
his merit to advance his fortune, then to tread, and plant that
ground hee hath purchased by the hazard of his life? If he have but
the taste of virtue, and magnanimitie, what to such a minde can
bee more pleasant, then planting and building a foundation for his
Posteritie, gotte from the rude earth, by Gods blessing and his owne
industrie, without prejudice to any? If hee have any graine of faith
or zeale in Religion, what can hee doe lesse hurtfull to any; or more
agreeable to God, then to seeke to convert those poore Salvages to
know Christ, and humanitie, whose labors with discretion will triple
requite thy charge and paines? What so truely sutes with honour
and honestie, as the discovering things unknowne? erecting Townes,
peopling Countries, informing the ignorant, reforming things unjust,
teaching virtue; and gaine to our Native mother-countrie a kingdom
to attend her; finde imployment for those that are idle, because
they know not what to doe: so farre from wronging any, as to cause
Posteritie to remember thee; and remembering thee, ever honour that
remembrance with praise?
Thomas Dermer
1619
MAINE AND CAPE COD
THOMAS DERMER _made his first voyage to New England in 1615.
The following year he sailed to Newfoundland, where he may have
remained until late in 1618. In 1619 he visited New England again,
going from there to Virginia. He wrote an account of this voyage
for Samuel Purchas, who printed it in the fourth volume of “Purchas
his Pilgrimes,” published at London in 1625._
_Dermer’s account of another voyage northward from Virginia, in
the course of which he found divers ships from Amsterdam and Horne
trading with the natives on the Delaware and Hudson rivers, was
presented to the Virginia Company in London, on July 10, 1621._
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_To his Worshipfull Friend_ M. SAMVEL PVRCHAS, _Preacher of the
Word, at the Church a little within_ Ludgate, London.
_Sir_,
IT was the nineteenth of May, ♦_1619 May_♦ before I was fitted for
my discouery, when from _Monahiggan_ I set sayle in an open Pinnace
of fiue tun, for the Iland I told you of. ♦_Monhegan_♦ I passed
alongst the Coast where I found some antient Plantations, not long
since populous now vtterly void; in other places a remnant remaines,
but not free of sicknesse. Their disease the Plague, for wee might
perceiue the sores of some that had escaped, who described the spots
of such as vsually die. When I arriued at my Sauages natiue Country
(finding all dead) I trauelled alongst a daies iourney Westward, to a
place called _Nummastaquyt_, where finding Inhabitants, I dispatched
a Messenger a dayes iourney further West, to _Poconaokit_ which
bordereth on the Sea; whence came to see me two Kings, attended with
a guard of fiftie armed men, who being well satisfied with that
my Sauage and I discoursed vnto them (being desirous of noueltie)
gaue mee content in whasoeuer I demanded, where I found that former
relations were true. Here I redeemed a _Frenchman_, and afterwards
another at _Mastachusit_, who three yeeres since escaped shipwracke
at the North-east of Cape _Cod_. I must (amongst many things worthy
obseruation) for want of leisure, therefore hence I passe (not
mentioning any place where we touched in the way) to the Iland,
which wee discouered the twelfth of Iune. ♦_June_♦ Here we had good
quarter with the Sauages, who likewise confirmed former reports. I
found seuen seuerall places digged, sent home of the earth, with
samples of other commodities elsewhere found, sounded the Coast, and
the time being farre spent bare vp for _Monahiggan_, arriuing the
three and [twen]tieth of Iune, where wee found our Ship ready to
depart. To this Ile are two other neere adioyning, all which I called
by the name of King _Iames_ his Iles, because from thence I had the
first motiues to search. For that (now probable passage) which may
hereafter be both honourable and profitable to his Maiestie. When I
had dispatched with the ships ready to depart, I thus concluded for
the accomplishing my businesse. In regard of the fewnesse of my men,
not being able to leaue behind mee a competent number for defence,
and yet sufficiently furnish my selfe, I put most of my prouisions
aboord the _Sampson_ of Cape _Ward_ ready bound for _Virginia_, from
whence hee came, taking no more into the Pinnace then I thought might
serue our turnes, determining with Gods helpe to search the Coast
along, and at _Virginia_ to supply our selues for a second discouery,
if the first failed. But as the best actions are commonly hardest in
effecting and are seldome without their crosses, so in this we had
our share, and met with many difficulties: for wee had not sayled
aboue forty leagues, but wee were taken with a Southerly storme,
which draue vs to this strait; eyther we must weather a rockie point
of Land, or run into a broad Bay no lesse dangerous; _Incidit in
Syllam, &c._ the Rockes wee could not weather, though wee loosed
till we receiued much water, but at last were forced to beare vp for
the Bay, and run on ground a furlong off the shoare, where we had
beene beaten to pieces, had wee not instantly throwne ouerboord our
prouisions to haue our liues; by which meanes we escaped and brought
off our Pinnace the next high water without hurt, hauing our Planke
broken, and a small leake or two which we easily mended. Being left
in this misery, hauing lost much bread, all our Beefe and Sider, some
Meale and Apparell, with other prouisions and necessaries; having now
little left besides hope to encourage vs to persist: Yet after a
little deliberation we resolued to proceed and departed with the next
faire winde. We had not now that faire quarter amongst the Sauages
as before, which I take it was by reason of our Sauages absence, who
desired (in regard of our long iourney) to stay with some of our
Sauage friends at _Sawahquatooke_, for now almost euery where, where
they were of any strength they sought to betray vs. At _Manamock_
♦_Monomoy_♦ (the Southerne part of Cape _Cod_, now called _Sutcliffe
Inlets_) I was vnawares taken prisoner, when they sought to kill my
men, which I left to man the Pinnace; but missing of their purpose,
they demanded a ransome, which had, I was as farre from libertie as
before; yet it pleased God at last, after a strange manner to deliuer
me, with three of them into my hands, and a little after the chiefe
_Sacheum_ himselfe; who seeing me weigh anchor, would haue leaped
ouerboord, but intercepted, craued pardon, and sent for the Hatchets
giuen for ransome, excusing himselfe by laying the fault on his
neighbours; and to be friends sent for a _Canoas_ lading of Corne,
which receiued we set him free. I am loth to omit the story, wherein
you would finde cause to admire the great mercy of God euen in our
greatest misery, in giuing vs both freedome and reliefe at one time.
Departing hence, the next place we arriued at was _Capaock_, an Iland
formerly discouered by the _English_, where I met with _Epinew_ a
Sauage that had liued in _England_, and speakes indifferent good
_English_, who foure yeeres since being carried home, was reported
to haue beene slaine, with diuers of his Countreymen, by Saylors,
which was false. With him I had much conference, who gaue mee very
good satisfaction in euery thing almost I could demand. Time not
permitting mee to search here, which I should haue done for sundry
things of speciall moment: the wind faire, I stood away shaping my
course as the Coast led mee, till I came to the most Westerly part
where the Coast began to fall away Southerly. In my way I discouered
Land about thirtie leagues in length, ♦_Martha’s Vineyard_♦
heretofore taken for Mayne, where I feared I had beene imbayed, but
by the helpe of an _Indian_ I got to the Sea againe, through many
crooked and streight passages. I let passe many accidents in this
iourney occasioned by treacherie, where wee were compelled twice to
goe together by the eares, once the Sauages had great advantage of
vs in a streight, not aboue a Bowe shot, and where a multitude of
_Indians_ let flye at vs from the banke, but it pleased God to make
vs victours: neere vnto this wee found a most dangerous Catwract
amongst small rockie Ilands, occasioned by two vnequall tydes, the
one ebbing and flowing two houres before the other: here wee lost an
Anchor by the strength of the current, but found it deepe enough:
from hence were wee carried in a short space by the tydes swiftnesse
into a great Bay (to vs so appearing) but indeede is broken land,
which gaue vs light of the Sea: here, as I said, the Land treadeth
Southerly. In this place I talked with many Saluages, who told me
of two sundry passages to the great Sea on the West, ♦_Long Island
Sound_♦ offered me Pilots, and one of them drew mee a Plot with
Chalke vpon a Chest, whereby I found it a great Iland, parted the
two Seas; they report the one scarce passable for shoalds, perillous
currents, the other no question to be made of. Hauing receiued
these directions, I hastened to the place of greatest hope, where I
purposed to make triall of Gods goodnesse towards vs, and vse my best
endeuour to bring the truth to light, but wee were but onely shewed
the entrance, where in seeking to passe wee were forced backe with
contrary and ouerblowing windes, hardly escaping both our liues.
Being thus ouercharged with weather, I stood alongst the coast to
seeke harbours, to attend a fauourable gale to recouer the streight,
but being a harbourlesse Coast for ought we could then perceiue, wee
found no succour till wee arriued betwixt Cape _Charles_ and the
Maine on the East side the Bay _Chestapeake_, ♦_Chesapeake Bay_♦
where in a wilde Roade wee anchored; and the next day (the eight of
September) crossed the Bay to _Kecoughtan_, where the first newes
strooke cold to our hearts, the general sicknesse ouer the Land.
Here I resolued with all possible speede to returne in pursuite of
this businesse, so that after a little refreshing, wee recouered
vp the Riuer to _Iames_ Citie, and from thence to Cape _Warde_ his
_Plantacon_, where immediately wee fell to hewing of Boords for a
close Decke, hauing found it a most desired course to attempt as
before. As wee were thus labouring to effect our purposes, it pleased
almighty God (who onely disposeth of the times and seasons, wherein
all workes shall be accomplished) to visite vs with his heauie hand,
so that at one time there were but two of vs able to helpe the rest,
my selfe so sore shaken with a burning feauer, that I was brought
euen vnto deaths doore, but at length by Gods assistance escaped,
and haue now with the rest almost recouered my former strength.
The Winter hauing ouertaken vs (a time on these Coasts especially)
subiect to gusts and fearefull storms, I haue now resolued to choose
a more temperate season, both for the generall good and our owne
safeties. And thus I haue sent you a broken discourse, though indeede
very vnwilling to haue giuen any notice at all, till it had pleased
God to haue blessed mee with a thorow search, that our eyes might
haue witnessed the truth. I haue drawne a Plot of the Coast, which
I dare not yet part with for feare of danger, let this therefore
serue for confirmation of your hopes, till I can better performe
my promise and your desire; for what I haue spoken I can produce at
least _mille testes_; farre separate, of the Sea behinde them, and of
Ships, which come many dayes iourney from the West, and of the great
extent of this Sea to the North and South, not knowing any bounds
thereof Westward. I cease to trouble you till a better opportunity
offer it selfe, remembring my best loue, &c. I rest
_Yours to command_,
_THO. DERMER_.
_From Captaine MARTYN his Plantation.
27 Decemb. 1619._
Christopher Levett
1624
YORK AND PORTLAND
CHRISTOPHER LEVETT, _who was born in York, England, in 1586, landed
on the Isles of Shoals in the autumn of 1623. Finding that this was
no place for a permanent settlement, he crossed to the mouth of
the Piscataqua River, where Robert Gorges, who had recently been
appointed governor of the territory granted to the Council for New
England, was making his colonial headquarters. Levett had been
given the right to settle and hold six thousand acres wherever he
might choose to locate within this territory. He selected an island
at the mouth of Portland harbour. There he left ten men to maintain
his possession while he went back to England for recruits and
supplies. To assist in securing these, he wrote an account of the
country and of his adventures therein, which he doubtless intended
to print as soon as he returned home. A variety of causes hindered
the carrying out of his plans, and the book was not published
until 1628. The chapters now reprinted are those which contain
the account of his experiences in New England. These chapters, as
well as the extracts from Purchas and other works not otherwise
credited, are taken from the copies of the original editions in the
John Carter Brown Library at Providence, Rhode Island._
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MY DISCOUERY of diverse Riuers and Harbours, with their names, and
which are fit for Plantations, and which not.
THE first place I set my foote vpon in _New England_, ♦_1623_♦ was
the Isles of _Shoulds_, being Ilands in the Sea, about two Leagues
from the Mayne.
Vpon these Ilands, I neither could see one good timber tree, nor so
much good ground as to make a garden.
The place is found to be a good fishing place for 6 Shippes, but more
cannot well be there for want of convenient stage-roome, as this
yeare’s experience hath proved.
The Harbor is but indifferent good. Vpon these Ilands are no Savages
at all.
The next place I came vnto was _Pannaway_, ♦_Piscataqua River_♦ where
one _M. Tomson_ hath made a Plantation, there I stayed about one
Moneth in which time I sent for my men from the East: who came over
in diverse Shipps.
At this place I met with the Governour, who came thither in a Barke
which he had from one _M. Weston_ about 20 dayes before I arived in
the Land.
The Governour then told me that I was joyned with him in Commission
as a Counsellor, which being read I found it was so. And he then, in
the presence of three more of the Counsell, administered unto me an
oath.
After the meeting of my men, I went a coasting in two boats with all
my company.
In the time I stayd with _M. Tomson_, I surveyed as much as possible
I could, the wether being vnseasonable, and very much snow.