three islands near the main land, full of wood of different kinds,
as at Choüacoet and all along the coast; and still another flat one,
where there are breakers, and which extends a little farther out
to sea than the others, on which there is no wood at all. We named
this place Island Cape, near which we saw a canoe containing five
or six savages, who came out near our barque, and then went back
and danced on the beach. Sieur de Monts sent me on shore to observe
them, and to give each one of them a knife and some biscuit, which
caused them to dance again better than before. This over, I made
them understand, as well as I could, that I desired them to show me
the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a crayon the bay,
and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same crayon they drew
the outline of another bay, which they represented as very large;
here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, giving me to
understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs and
tribes. Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river which
we had passed, ♦_Merrimac River_♦ which has shoals and is very long.
We found in this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which
were a little larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on
which were no larger than musket-balls. The savages told us that all
those inhabiting this country cultivated the land and sowed seeds
like the others, whom we had before seen. The latitude of this place
is 43° and some minutes. Sailing half a league farther, we observed
several savages on a rocky point, who ran along the shore to their
companions, dancing as they went, to inform them of our coming. After
pointing out to us the direction of their abode, they made a signal
with smoke to show us the place of their settlement. We anchored near
a little island, ♦_Thatcher’s Island_♦ and sent our canoe with knives
and cakes for the savages. From the large number of those we saw, we
concluded that these places were better inhabited than the others we
had seen.
After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing these
people, whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the
Canadians, Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set
sail with a promise of fine weather. Continuing our course to
the west-south-west, we saw numerous islands on one side and the
other. Having sailed seven or eight leagues, we anchored near an
island, ♦_Boston Harbour_♦ whence we observed many smokes along the
shore, and many savages running up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent
two or three men in a canoe to them, to whom he gave some knives
and paternosters to present to them; with which they were greatly
pleased, and danced several times in acknowledgment. We could not
ascertain the name of their chief, as we did not know their language.
All along the shore there is a great deal of land cleared up and
planted with Indian corn. The country is very pleasant and agreeable,
and there is no lack of fine trees. The canoes of those who live
there are made of a single piece, and are very liable to turn over if
one is not skilful in managing them. We had not before seen any of
this kind. They are made in the following manner. After cutting down,
at a cost of much labour and time, the largest and tallest tree they
can find, by means of stone hatchets (for they have no others except
some few which they received from the savages on the coasts of La
Cadie, who obtained them in exchange for furs), they remove the bark,
and round off the tree except on one side, where they apply fire
gradually along its entire length; and sometimes they put red-hot
pebble-stones on top. When the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it
with a little water, not entirely, but so that the edge of the boat
may not be burnt. It being hollowed out as much as they wish, they
scrape it all over with stones, which they use instead of knives.
These stones resemble our musket flints.
On the next day, the 17th of the month, we weighed anchor to go
to a cape we had seen the day before, which seemed to lie on our
south-south-west. This day we were able to make only five leagues,
and we passed by some islands covered with wood. I observed in the
bay all that the savages had described to me at Island Cape. As we
continued our course, large numbers came to us in canoes from the
islands and main land. We anchored a league from a cape, which we
named St. Louis, ♦_Brant Rock Point_♦ where we noticed smoke in
several places. While in the act of going there, our barque grounded
on a rock, where we were in great danger, for, if we had not speedily
got it off, it would have overturned in the sea, since the tide was
falling all around, and there were five or six fathoms of water.
But God preserved us, and we anchored near the above-named cape,
when there came to us fifteen or sixteen canoes of savages. In some
of them there were fifteen or sixteen, who began to manifest great
signs of joy, and made various harangues, which we could not in the
least understand. Sieur de Monts sent three or four men on shore in
our canoe, not only to get water, but to see their chief, whose name
was Honabetha. The latter had a number of knives and other trifles,
which Sieur de Monts gave him, when he came alongside to see us,
together with some of his companions, who were present both along
the shore and in their canoes. We received the chief very cordially,
and made him welcome; who, after remaining some time, went back.
Those whom we had sent to them brought us some little squashes as
big as the fist, which we ate as a salad, like cucumbers, and which
we found very good. They brought also some purslane, which grows in
large quantities among the Indian corn, and of which they make no
more account than of weeds. We saw here a great many little houses,
scattered over the fields where they plant their Indian corn.
There is, moreover, in this bay a very broad river, which we named
River du Guast. ♦_Charles River_♦ It stretches, as it seemed to me,
towards the Iroquois, a nation in open warfare with the Montagnais,
who live on the great river St. Lawrence.
[Illustration: (Decorative separator)]
Continuation of the Discoveries along the Coast of the
Almouchiquois, and what we observed in detail.
THE next day we doubled Cap St. Louis, so named by Sieur de Monts, a
land rather low, and in latitude 42° 45′. The same day we sailed two
leagues along a sandy coast, as we passed along which we saw a great
many cabins and gardens. The wind being contrary, we entered a little
bay to await a time favourable for proceeding. ♦_Plymouth Harbour_♦
There came to us two or three canoes, which had just been fishing for
cod and other fish, which are found there in large numbers. These
they catch with hooks made of a piece of wood, to which they attach
a bone in the shape of a spear, and fasten it very securely. The
whole has a fang-shape, and the line attached to it is made out of
the bark of a tree. They gave me one of their hooks, which I took
as a curiosity. In it the bone was fastened on by hemp, like that
in France, as it seemed to me, and they told me that they gathered
this plant without being obliged to cultivate it; and indicated that
it grew to the height of four or five feet. This canoe went back
on shore to give notice to their fellow inhabitants, who caused
columns of smoke to arise on our account. We saw eighteen or twenty
savages, who came to the shore and began to dance. Our canoe landed
in order to give them some bagatelles, at which they were greatly
pleased. Some of them came to us and begged us to go to their river.
We weighed anchor to do so, but were unable to enter on account of
the small amount of water, it being low tide, and were accordingly
obliged to anchor at the mouth. I went ashore, where I saw many
others, who received us very cordially. I made also an examination of
the river, but saw only an arm of water extending a short distance
inland, where the land is only in part cleared up. Running into this
is merely a brook not deep enough for boats except at full tide. The
circuit of the bay is about a league. On one side of the entrance to
this bay there is a point which is almost an island, covered with
wood, principally pines, with sand-banks, which are very extensive,
all about. On the other side, the land is high. There are two islets
in this bay, which are not seen until one has entered, and around
which it is almost entirely dry at low tide. This place is very
conspicuous from the sea, for the coast is very low, excepting the
cape at the entrance to the bay. We named it the Port du Cap St.
Louis, distant two leagues from the above cape, and ten from the
Island Cape. It is in about the same latitude as Cap St. Louis.
On the 19th of the month, we set out from this place. Coasting along
in a southerly direction, we sailed four or five leagues, and passed
near a rock on a level with the surface of the water. As we continued
our course, we saw some land which seemed to us to be islands, but
as we came nearer we found it to be the main land, lying to the
north-north-west of us, and that it was the cape of a large bay,
containing more than eighteen or nineteen leagues in circuit, into
which we had run so far that we had to wear off on the other tack in
order to double the cape which we had seen. ♦_Cape Cod_♦ The latter
we named Cap Blanc, since it consisted of sands and downs which had
a white appearance. A favourable wind was of great assistance to us
here, for otherwise we should have been in danger of being driven
upon the coast. This bay is very safe, provided the land be not
approached nearer than a good league, there being no islands nor
rocks except that just mentioned, which is near a river that extends
some distance inland, which we named St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc,
♦_Wellfleet Harbour_♦ whence across to Cap St. Louis the distance
is ten leagues. Cap Blanc is a point of sand, which bends around
towards the south some six leagues. This coast is rather high, and
consists of sand, which is very conspicuous as one comes from the
sea. At a distance of some fifteen or eighteen leagues from land, the
depth of the water is thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, but only ten
on nearing the shore, which is unobstructed. There is a large extent
of open country along the shore before reaching the woods, which are
very attractive and beautiful. We anchored off the coast, and saw
some savages, towards whom four of our company proceeded. Making
their way upon a sand-bank, they observed something like a bay, and
cabins bordering it on all sides. When they were about a league and a
half from us, there came to them a savage dancing all over, as they
expressed it. He had come down from the high shore, but turned about
shortly after to inform his fellow inhabitants of our arrival.
The next day, the 20th of the month, we went to the place which our
men had seen, and which we found a very dangerous harbour ♦_Nauset
Harbour_♦ in consequence of the shoals and banks, where we saw
breakers in all directions. It was almost low tide when we entered,
and there were only four feet of water in the northern passage; at
high tide, there are two fathoms. After we had entered, we found the
place very spacious, being perhaps three or four leagues in circuit,
entirely surrounded by little houses, around each one of which there
was as much land as the occupant needed for his support. A small
river enters here, which is very pretty, and in which at low tide
there are some three and a half feet of water. There are also two or
three brooks bordered by meadows. It would be a very fine place, if
the harbour were good. I took the altitude, and found the latitude
42°, and the deflection of the magnetic needle 18° 40′. Many savages,
men and women, visited us, and ran up on all sides dancing. We named
this place Port de Mallebarre.
The next day, the 21st of the month, Sieur de Monts determined to go
and see their habitations. Nine or ten of us accompanied him with our
arms; the rest remained to guard the barque. We went about a league
along the coast. Before reaching their cabins, we entered a field
planted with Indian corn in the manner before described. The corn
was in flower, and five and a half feet high. There was some less
advanced, which they plant later. We saw many Brazilian beans, and
many squashes of various sizes, very good for eating; some tobacco,
and roots which they cultivate, the latter having the taste of an
artichoke. The woods are filled with oaks, nut-trees, and beautiful
cypresses, which are of a reddish colour and have a very pleasant
odour. There were also several fields entirely uncultivated, the
land being allowed to remain fallow. When they wish to plant it,
they set fire to the weeds, and then work it over with their wooden
spades. Their cabins are round, and covered with heavy thatch made
of reeds. In the roof there is an opening of about a foot and a
half, whence the smoke from the fire passes out. We asked them if
they had their permanent abode in this place, and whether there was
much snow. But we were unable to ascertain this fully from them,
not understanding their language, although they made an attempt to
inform us by signs, by taking some sand in their hands, spreading
it out over the ground, and indicating that it was of the colour of
our collars, and that it reached the depth of a foot. Others made
signs that there was less, and gave us to understand also that the
harbour never froze; but we were unable to ascertain whether the snow
lasted long. I conclude, however, that this region is of moderate
temperature, and the winter not severe. While we were there, there
was a north-east storm, which lasted four days; the sky being so
overcast that the sun hardly shone at all. It was very cold, and we
were obliged to put on our great-coats, which we had entirely left
off. Yet I think the cold was accidental, as it is often experienced
elsewhere out of season.
On the 23d of July, four or five seamen having gone on shore with
some kettles to get fresh water, which was to be found in one of the
sand-banks a short distance from our barque, some of the savages,
coveting them, watched the time when our men went to the spring, and
then seized one out of the hands of a sailor, who was the first to
dip, and who had no weapons. One of his companions, starting to run
after him, soon returned, as he could not catch him, since he ran
much faster than himself. The other savages, of whom there were a
large number, seeing our sailors running to our barque, and at the
same time shouting to us to fire at them, took to flight. At the time
there were some of them in our barque, who threw themselves into
the sea, only one of whom we were able to seize. Those on the land
who had taken to flight, seeing them swimming, returned straight
to the sailor from whom they had taken away the kettle, hurled
several arrows at him from behind, and brought him down. Seeing
this, they ran at once to him, and despatched him with their knives.
Meanwhile, haste was made to go on shore, and muskets were fired from
our barque: mine, bursting in my hands, came near killing me. The
savages, hearing this discharge of fire-arms, took to flight, and
with redoubled speed when they saw that we had landed, for they were
afraid when they saw us running after them. There was no likelihood
of our catching them, for they are as swift as horses. We brought in
the murdered man, and he was buried some hours later. Meanwhile, we
kept the prisoner bound by the feet and hands on board of our barque,
fearing that he might escape. But Sieur de Monts resolved to let
him go, being persuaded that he was not to blame, and that he had
no previous knowledge of what had transpired, as also those who, at
the time, were in and about our barque. Some hours later there came
some savages to us, to excuse themselves, indicating by signs and
demonstrations that it was not they who had committed this malicious
act, but others farther off in the interior. We did not wish to harm
them, although it was in our power to avenge ourselves.
All these savages from the Island Cape wear neither robes nor furs,
except very rarely: moreover, their robes are made of grasses and
hemp, scarcely covering the body, and coming down only to their
thighs. They have only the private parts concealed with a small piece
of leather; so likewise the women, with whom it comes down a little
lower behind than with the men, all the rest of the body being naked.
Whenever the women came to see us, they wore robes which were open
in front. The men cut off the hair on the top of the head like those
at the river Choüacoet. I saw, among other things, a girl with her
hair very neatly dressed, with a skin coloured red, and bordered on
the upper part with little shell-beads. A part of her hair hung down
behind, the rest being braided in various ways. These people paint
the face red, black, and yellow. They have scarcely any beard, and
tear it out as fast as it grows. Their bodies are well-proportioned.
I cannot tell what government they have, but I think that in this
respect they resemble their neighbours, who have none at all. They
know not how to worship or pray; yet, like the other savages, they
have some superstitions, which I shall describe in their place. As
for weapons, they have only pikes, clubs, bows and arrows. It would
seem from their appearance that they have a good disposition, better
than those of the north, but they are all in fact of no great worth.
Even a slight intercourse with them gives you at once a knowledge
of them. They are great thieves and, if they cannot lay hold of any
thing with their hands, they try to do so with their feet, as we
have oftentimes learned by experience. I am of opinion that, if they
had any thing to exchange with us, they would not give themselves to
thieving. They bartered away to us their bows, arrows and quivers,
for pins and buttons; and if they had had any thing else better they
would have done the same with it. It is necessary to be on one’s
guard against this people, and live in a state of distrust of them,
yet without letting them perceive it. They gave us a large quantity
of tobacco, which they dry and then reduce to powder. When they eat
Indian corn, they boil it in earthen pots, which they make in a way
different from ours. They pound it also in wooden mortars and reduce
it to flour, of which they then make cakes, like the Indians of Peru.
In this place and along the whole coast from Quinibequy, there are
a great many _siguenocs_, ♦_Horseshoe Crab_♦ which is a fish with a
shell on its back like the tortoise, yet different, there being in
the middle a row of little prickles, of the colour of a dead leaf,
like the rest of the fish. At the end of this shell, there is another
still smaller, bordered by very sharp points. The length of the tail
varies according to their size. With the end of it, these people
point their arrows, and it contains also a row of prickles like the
large shell in which are the eyes. There are eight small feet like
those of the crab, and two behind longer and flatter, which they use
in swimming. There are also in front two other very small ones with
which they eat. When walking, all the feet are concealed excepting
the two hindermost, which are slightly visible. Under the small shell
there are membranes which swell up, and beat like the throat of a
frog, and rest upon each other like the folds of a waistcoat. The
largest specimen of this fish that I saw was a foot broad, and a
foot and a half long.
We saw also a sea-bird with a black beak, the upper part slightly
aquiline, four inches long and in the form of a lancet; namely, the
lower part representing the handle and the upper the blade, which is
thin, sharp on both sides, and shorter by a third than the other,
which circumstance is a matter of astonishment to many persons, who
cannot comprehend how it is possible for this bird to eat with such
a beak. It is of the size of a pigeon, the wings being very long in
proportion to the body, the tail short, as also the legs, which are
red; the feet being small and flat. The plumage on the upper part
is gray-brown, and on the under part pure white. They go always in
flocks along the sea-shore, like the pigeons with us.
The savages, along all these coasts where we have been, say that
other birds, which are very large, come along when their corn is
ripe. They imitated for us their cry, which resembles that of the
turkey. They showed us their feathers in several places, with which
they feather their arrows, and which they put on their heads for
decoration; and also a kind of hair which they have under the throat
like those we have in France, and they say that a red crest falls
over upon the beak. According to their description, they are as large
as a bustard, which is a kind of goose, having the neck longer and
twice as large as those with us. All these indications led us to
conclude that they were turkeys. We should have been very glad to
see some of these birds, as well as their feathers, for the sake
of greater certainty. Before seeing their feathers, and the little
bunch of hair which they have under the throat, and hearing their cry
imitated, I should have thought that they were certain birds like
turkeys, which are found in some places in Peru, along the sea-shore,
eating carrion and other dead things like crows. But these are not so
large; nor do they have so long a wattle, or a cry like that of real
turkeys; nor are they good to eat like those which the Indians say
come in flocks in summer, and at the beginning of winter go away to
warmer countries, their natural dwelling-place.
[Illustration: (Decorative separator)]
Return from the Discoveries along the Coast of the Almouchiquois.
We had spent more than five weeks in going over three degrees of
latitude, and our voyage was limited to six, since we had not taken
provisions for a longer time. In consequence of fogs and storms, we
had not been able to go farther than Mallebarre, where we waited
several days for fair weather, in order to sail. Finding ourselves
accordingly pressed by the scantiness of provisions, Sieur de Monts
determined to return to the Island of St. Croix, in order to find
another place more favourable for our settlement, as we had not been
able to do on any of the coasts which we had explored on this voyage.
Accordingly, on the 25th of July, we set out from this harbour,
in order to make observations elsewhere. In going out, we came
near being lost on the bar at the entrance, from the mistake of
our pilots, Cramolet and Champdoré, masters of the barque, who had
imperfectly marked out the entrance of the channel on the southern
side, where we were to go. Having escaped this danger, we headed
north-east for six leagues, until we reached Cap Blanc, sailing
on from there to Island Cape, a distance of fifteen leagues, with
the same wind. Then we headed east-north-east sixteen leagues, as
far as Choüacoet, where we saw the savage chief, Marchin, whom we
had expected to see at the Lake Quinibequy. He had the reputation
of being one of the valiant ones of his people. He had a fine
appearance: all his motions were dignified, savage as he was. Sieur
de Monts gave him many presents, with which he was greatly pleased;
and, in return, Marchin gave him a young Etechemin boy, whom he had
captured in war, and whom we took away with us; and thus we set
out, mutually good friends. We headed north-east a quarter east for
fifteen leagues, as far as Quinibequy, where we arrived on the 29th
of the month, and where we were expecting to find a savage, named
Sasinou, of whom I spoke before. Thinking that he would come, we
waited some time for him, in order to recover from him an Etechemin
young man and girl, whom he was holding as prisoners. While waiting,
there came to us a captain called Anassou, who trafficked a little
in furs, and with whom we made an alliance. ♦_Waymouth in the
Archangel_♦ He told us that there was a ship, ten leagues off the
harbour, which was engaged in fishing, and that those on her had
killed five savages of this river, under cover of friendship. From
his description of the men on the vessel, we concluded that they were
English, and we named the Island where they were La Nef; ♦_Monhegan_♦
for, at a distance, it had the appearance of a ship. Finding that the
above-mentioned Sasinou did not come, we headed east-south-east, for
twenty leagues, to Isle Haute, where we anchored until morning.
On the next day, the 1st of August, ♦_August_♦ we sailed east some
twenty leagues to Cap Corneille, where we spent the night. ♦_Machias
Bay_♦ On the 2d of the month, we sailed north-east seven leagues
to the mouth of the river St. Croix, on the western shore. Having
anchored between the two first islands, ♦_Campobello and Eastport_♦
Sieur de Monts embarked in a canoe, at a distance of six leagues from
the settlement of St. Croix, where we arrived the next day with our
barque. We found there Sieur des Antons of St. Malo, who had come in
one of the vessels of Sieur de Monts, to bring provisions and also
other supplies for those who were to winter in this country.
George Waymouth
1605
ST. GEORGE’S RIVER