Its phenomenal growth, its commanding position on one of the great
waterways of the continent, its wealth, commerce and enterprise, and the
singular natural beauty of its situation, render the capital of the
Pacific Northwest one of the most attractive cities on the American
continent.
Fifteen years ago Portland contained a population of 1,103. By 1880 the
construction of the western section of the Northern Pacific Railroad,
and the approaching completion of the great transcontinental system, had
so stimulated the growth of the city that its population had increased
to 17,577. To-day it is estimated at 30,000, or, including the suburbs
of East Portland and Albina, at 40,000, and a handsomer city of its size
can not be found in the United States.
In everything that distinguishes a great metropolitan city, the progress
of Portland has been even more remarkable than the rapid growth of its
population. The handsome business blocks that line its principal streets
bear witness to the magnitude of its trade and commerce, while its
churches, schools and other public buildings testify to the high moral
tone and refined taste of its citizens.
Although one hundred miles from the coast, Portland, like London,
Rotterdam and Antwerp, is virtually a seaport, and its growth and
progress are based upon the solid foundations of its natural advantages.
Loading at its wharves, or riding at anchor on the broad bosom of the
river, may be seen, not only river craft of all sorts and sizes, but
ocean-going vessels of 3,000 tons. When the great wheat crop of Oregon
is in course of shipment to Europe, there may be seen a fleet of as fine
merchantmen as can be found in the world. The salmon exports alone, for
the year ending August 1, 1885, required 120 large vessels, having a
total capacity of about as many thousand tons. The total value of the
exports to foreign countries for the year just mentioned, was
$5,857,057, and that of domestic exports $6,699,776, making a grand
total of $12,556,833. In addition to several hundred thousand tons of
wheat, and the 120 ship loads of salmon already mentioned, the exports
from the Columbia river included over eleven million pounds of wool,
over two million pounds of hides, nearly five and one-half million
pounds of hops, and twenty-nine million pounds of potatoes.
Portland is said to number among its merchant princes twenty-one
millionaires, and certainly there are few cities whose private
residences are more strikingly indicative of wealth and refinement. The
picturesque surroundings of the city render it an exceedingly desirable
place of residence. From the summit of Robinson's Hill a view that it is
no extravagance to pronounce one of the finest in the world may be
obtained. At one's feet lies the city, nestled in rich foliage.
Stretching away, for many miles, from where their waters unite in one
common flood, may be seen the Columbia and Willamette rivers. But above
all, bounded only by the limits of the horizon, is the great Cascade
Range, with all its glittering peaks. On the extreme right,
seventy-eight miles distant, as the crow flies, is seen the snowy crown
of Mount Jefferson; across the river, fifty-one miles distant, rises
Mount Hood, one of the most beautiful mountains on the coast, and the
pride and glory of Oregon; to the northeast stand out the crests of
Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens, and in the same direction, but one
hundred miles away, may be descried the great Tacoma, the grandest
mountain on the Pacific slope. All these five peaks are radiant with
eternal snow, and it may well be imagined that the effect of the
uplifting of their giant forms against the clear blue sky is grand in
the extreme.
Tourists coming northward from San Francisco have the choice of two
routes and two modes of travel. They may either take one of the fine
steamers of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, sailing every
five days, and performing the voyage in from sixty to seventy-two hours,
or they may travel overland by the Oregon & California Railroad, a line
that traverses not only the most fruitful plains, but also the most
beautiful valleys, of this rich State.
For the benefit of such travelers, and also in view of the possibility
of there being those who, both coming and returning by the Northern
Pacific Railroad, would like to visit the garden of Oregon, and, if
possible, obtain a glimpse of Mount Shasta, it may not be out of place
to give a brief description of the line extending southward from
Portland to the southern boundary of the State.
For upward of one hundred miles our route lies along the Willamette
valley. This is the largest valley in the State, being 150 miles in
length, with an average width of fifty miles. Inclosed on the east side
by the Cascade Mountains, and on the west by the Coast Range, it
contains an area of about four and one-half million acres of rich and
beautiful land. Some of the pleasantest towns in the Northwest are to be
found in this valley.
[Illustration: FLOATING FISH WHEEL, ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON.]
First comes Oregon City, sixteen miles from Portland; this is the oldest
town in Oregon. It is situated just below the beautiful falls of the
Willamette, amid highly picturesque scenery. Its chief interest for the
tourist centres in the falls, which represent a force of over a million
horse power, or about eight times that of the Falls of St. Anthony. They
may be seen a few hundred yards south of the station, on the west side
of the track. Hitherto there has been seen no considerable extent of
fertile country; but in Barlow's prairie there appears a fine tract of
agricultural land inclosed by tributaries of the Willamette. Others
succeed it, and soon good homesteads, surrounded by shade trees and
orchards, are seen in every direction. The next town of importance is
Salem, the State capital, beautifully situated on the sloping banks of
the river. The capitol, and other State buildings, may be seen from the
train; and the entire city, with its broad streets and fine oak groves,
presents a pleasing appearance.
The twenty-eight miles intervening between Salem and Albany afford some
fine views of the Cascade Range, Mount Hood being visible at a distance
of seventy miles, and the nearer southern peaks in still bolder
outline. Eugene City, 123 miles from Portland, is also charmingly
situated and finely laid out on the edge of a broad, rich prairie
overlooked by a ridge of low hills. Its geographical position, at the
head of navigation, commands for it the trade of a large section of
country. It is also the seat of the State University, and is otherwise
an educational centre of great importance.
In the course of the next seventy-four miles the railroad ascends about
2,000 feet to Roseburg, the judicial seat of Douglas county, traversed
by another of the famous valleys of Oregon, that of the Umpqua. This was
formerly a great stock country; but its pastures have gradually
disappeared before the plow, and cattle have given way to grain. It is,
moreover, a fine fruit growing region. The tourist is now approaching
those intricate valleys which have made this line of railway from
Roseburg to its terminus at Ashland at once so costly and so
picturesque.
Cow Creek Canon, so winding that thirty-five miles of track had to be
laid to attain twelve miles of actual distance, abounds with wild and
beautiful scenery. From the valley of the Umpqua, the railroad passes
into that of the Rogue river, in Josephine county. This county is
equally famed for its natural beauty, its healthful climate and the
wonderful productiveness of its soil. Grains, fruits and vegetables of
every description, yield prodigiously, and their quality is not to be
surpassed.
The great attractions of the county for the tourist are the two
limestone caves situated thirty miles south of Grant's Pass, and fifteen
miles east of Kerbyville. There is said to be a good wagon road from the
latter place to within five miles of these caves, and arrangements are
in progress for the early completion of the road. According to an
official publication of the county, there is another route, _via_
Williams Creek, by wagon road, to within eight miles of the caves, and
thence, by a mountain trail, on horseback. The scenery along this route
is stated to be grand beyond description, embracing many of the lovely
valleys of this charming county, and, in the distance, the snow-capped
mountains of the Cascade Range, terminating in the tremendous peak of
Mount Shasta. The caves themselves consist each of a series of chambers,
adorned with beautiful stalactites of prismatic colors, and other
curious and delicate formations, presenting exquisite patterns, and
sparkling with the lustre of diamonds.
At Ashland, 341 miles from Portland, the tourist arrives at the southern
terminus of the road. Connection is made with the California and Oregon
Railroad, at Delta, California, by stage. This is an exceedingly
enjoyable stage ride, the first twenty miles of the journey being over
the Siskiyou Mountains, from whose summits the long Sierra Nevada and
Cascade Range can be traced for nearly 200 miles.