LAST DAYS AT CAPE SHERIDAN
It is not long now to the end of the story. On returning to the
_Roosevelt_ I learned that MacMillan and the doctor had reached the ship
March 21, Borup on April 11, the Eskimo survivors of Marvin's party
April 17, and Bartlett on April 24. MacMillan and Borup had started for
the Greenland coast, before my return, to deposit caches for me, in the
event that I should be obliged by the drifting of the ice to come back
that way, as in 1906. (Borup, on his return to the land, had deposited a
cache for me at Cape Fanshawe Martin, on the Grant Land coast, some
eighty miles west from Cape Columbia, thus providing for a drift in
either direction.)
[Illustration: PERMANENT MONUMENT ERECTED AT CAPE COLUMBIA TO MARK POINT
OF DEPARTURE AND RETURN OF NORTH POLE SLEDGE PARTY]
Borup also, with the aid of the Eskimos, built at Cape Columbia a
permanent monument, consisting of a pile of stones formed round the base
of a guidepost made of sledge planks, with four arms pointing true
north, south, east, and west--the whole supported and guyed by numerous
strands of heavy sounding wire. On each arm is a copper plate, with an
inscription punched in it. On the eastern arm is, "Cape Morris K. Jesup,
May 16, 1900, 275 miles;" on the southern arm is, "Cape Columbia, June
6, 1906;" on the western arm is, "Cape Thomas H. Hubbard, July 1, 1906,
225 miles;" on the northern arm, "North Pole, April 6, 1909, 413
miles." Below these arms, in a frame covered with glass to protect it
from the weather, is a record containing the following:
PEARY ARCTIC CLUB NORTH POLE EXPEDITION, 1908
_S. S. Roosevelt_,
June 12th, 1909.
This monument marks the point of departure and
return of the sledge expedition of the Peary
Arctic Club, which in the spring of 1909 attained
the North Pole.
The members of the expedition taking part in the
sledge work were Peary, Bartlett, Goodsell,
Marvin,[3] MacMillan, Borup, Henson.
The various sledge divisions left here February
28th and March 1st, and returned from March 18th
to April 23rd.
The Club's Steamer _Roosevelt_ wintered at C.
Sheridan, 73 miles east of here.
R. E. PEARY, U. S. N.
Commander, R. E. Peary, U. S. N., Comdg. Expedition.
Captain R. A. Bartlett, Master of _Roosevelt_.
Chief Engr. George A. Wardwell.
Surgeon J. W. Goodsell.
Prof. Ross G. Marvin, Assistant.
Prof. D. B. McMillan, "
George Borup, "
M. A. Henson, "
Charles Percy, Steward.
Mate Thomas Gushue.
Bosun John Connors.
Seaman John Coadey.
" John Barnes.
" Dennis Murphy.
" George Percy.
2nd Engr. Banks Scott.
Fireman James Bently.
Patrick Joyce.
Patrick Skeans.
John Wiseman.
On the 18th MacMillan and Borup with five Eskimos and six sledges had
departed for the Greenland coast to establish depots of supplies in case
my party should be obliged to make its landing there as in 1906, and
also to make tidal readings at Cape Morris Jesup. I, therefore, at once
started two Eskimos off for Greenland with a sounding apparatus and a
letter informing MacMillan and Borup of our final success. It had been
the plan to have Bartlett make a line of ten or five mile soundings
from Columbia to Camp No. 8 to bring out the cross section of the
continental shelf and the deep channel along it, and Bartlett had got
his equipment ready for this purpose. However, I decided not to send him
for the reason that he was not in the best physical condition, his feet
and ankles being considerably swollen, while he was, moreover, afflicted
with a number of Job's comforters. My own physical condition, however,
remained perfect during the rest of our stay in the north, with the
exception of a bad tooth from which I suffered more or less torture
during a space of three weeks.
[Illustration: PEARY CAIRN AT CAPE MORRIS K. JESUP, AS PHOTOGRAPHED BY
MACMILLAN AND BORUP]
This was the first time in all my arctic expeditions that I had been at
headquarters through May and June. Hitherto there had always seemed to
be something more to be done in the field; but now the principal work
was completed, and it remained only to arrange the results. In the
meantime the energies of the Eskimos were largely employed in short
journeys in the neighborhood, most of them for the purpose of visiting
the various supply depots established between the ship and Cape Columbia
and removing their unused supplies to the ship. Between them these
various small expeditions did some interesting work. Most of this
supplementary work in the field was accomplished by other members of the
expedition, but I had plenty of work on board the _Roosevelt_. Along
about the 10th of May we began to get genuine spring weather. On that
day Bartlett and myself began spring housecleaning. We overhauled the
cabins, cleared out the dark corners, and dried out everything that
needed it, the quarter-deck being littered with all kinds of
miscellaneous articles the whole day. On the same day spring work on the
ship was also begun, the winter coverings being taken off the
_Roosevelt's_ stack and ventilators, and preparations being made for
work on the engines.
A few days later a beautiful white fox came to the ship and attempted to
get on board. One of the Eskimos killed him. The creature behaved in an
extraordinary manner, acting, in fact, just like the Eskimo dogs when
those creatures run amuck. The Eskimos say that in the Whale Sound
region foxes often seem to go mad in the same way and sometimes attempt
to break into the igloos. This affliction from which arctic dogs and
foxes suffer, while apparently a form of madness, does not seem to have
any relation to rabies since it does not appear to be contagious or
infectious.
The spring weather, though unmistakably the real thing, was fickle on
the whole. On Sunday, May 16, for example, the sun was hot and the
temperature high, and the snow all about us was disappearing almost like
magic, pools of water forming about the ship; but the next day we had a
stiff southwest gale with considerable wet snow. On the whole, it was a
very disagreeable day.
On the 18th the engineer's force began work on the boilers in earnest.
Four days later two Eskimos returned from MacMillan, whom they had left
at Cape Morris Jesup on the Greenland coast. They brought notes from him
giving some details of his work there. On the 31st MacMillan and Borup
themselves arrived from Greenland, having made the return trip from Cape
Morris Jesup, a distance of 270 miles, in eight marches, an average of
34 miles per march. MacMillan reported that he got as far as 84° 17´
north of Cape Jesup, had made a sounding which showed a depth of 90
fathoms, and had obtained ten days' tidal observations. They brought in
as many of the skins and as much of the meat as the sledges could carry
of 52 musk-oxen which they had killed.
Early in June, Borup and MacMillan continued their work; MacMillan
making tidal observations at Fort Conger; and Borup erecting at Cape
Columbia the monument which has been already described.
MacMillan while taking tidal observations at Fort Conger on Lady
Franklin Bay, to connect our work at Capes Sheridan, Columbia, Bryant,
and Jesup with the observation of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition of
1881-83, found still some remains of the supplies of the disastrous
Greely expedition of 1881-84. They included canned vegetables, potatoes,
hominy, rhubarb, pemmican, tea, and coffee. Strange to say, after the
lapse of a quarter of a century, many of these supplies were still in
good condition, and some of them were eaten with relish by various
members of our party.
One of the finds was a text book which had belonged to Lieutenant
Kislingbury, who lost his life with the Greely party. Upon its flyleaf
it bore this inscription: "To my dear father, from his affectionate son,
Harry Kislingbury. May God be with you and return you safely to us."
Greely's old coat was also found lying on the ground. This also was in
good condition and I believe that MacMillan wore it for some days.
All hands were now beginning to look forward to the time when the
_Roosevelt_ should again turn her nose toward the south and home.
Following our own housecleaning, the Eskimos had one on June 12. Every
movable article was taken out of their quarters, and the walls,
ceilings, and floors were scrubbed, disinfected, and whitewashed. Other
signs of returning summer were observed on all sides. The surface of the
ice-floe was going blue, the delta of the river was quite bare, and the
patches of bare ground ashore were growing larger almost hourly. Even
the _Roosevelt_ seemed to feel the change and gradually began to right
herself from the pronounced list which she had taken under the press of
the ice in the early winter. On June 16 we had the first of the summer
rains, though the next morning all the pools of water were frozen over.
On the same day Borup captured a live musk calf near Clements Markham
Inlet. He managed to get his unique captive back to the ship alive, but
the little creature died the next evening, though the steward nursed him
carefully in an effort to save his life.
On the summer solstice, June 22, midnoon of the arctic summer and the
longest day of the year, it snowed all night; but a week later the
weather seemed almost tropical, and we all suffered from the heat,
strange though it seems to say it. The glimpses of open water off Cape
Sheridan were increasing in frequency and size, and on July 2 we could
see a considerable lake just off the point of this cape. The 4th of
July as we observed it would have pleased the advocates of "a quiet
Fourth." What with the recent death of Marvin and the fact that the day
was Sunday, nothing out of the ordinary routine was done except to dress
the ship with flags, and there was scarcely enough wind even to display
our bunting. Three years ago that very day the _Roosevelt_ got away from
her winter quarters at almost the same spot in a strong southerly gale;
but the experience on that occasion convinced me that it would be best
to hang on in our present position just as late in July as possible, and
thus give the ice in Robeson and Kennedy Channels more time to break up.
It almost seemed as if the _Roosevelt_ shared with us our anticipation
of a speedy return, for she continued gradually to regain an even keel,
and within four or five days she had automatically completed this
operation. On the 8th we put out the eight-inch hawser and made the ship
fast, bow and stern, in order to hold her in position in case she should
be subjected to any pressure before we were ready to depart. On the same
day we began in real earnest to make ready for the homeward departure.
The work began with the taking on of coal, which, it will be remembered,
had been transferred to shore along with quantities of other supplies
when we went into winter quarters, in order to make provisions against
the loss of the ship by fire, or ice pressure, or what not, in the
course of the winter. The process of getting the ship ready for her
homeward voyage does not require detailed description. Suffice it to say
that it furnished the entire party with hard work and plenty of it for
fully ten days.
At the expiration of that period Bartlett reported the ship ready to
sail. Observation of conditions off shore revealed the fact that Robeson
Channel was practicable for navigation. Our work was done, success had
crowned our efforts, the ship was ready, we were all fit, and on July
18, with only the tragic memory of the lost lamented Marvin to lessen
our high spirits, the _Roosevelt_ pulled slowly out from the cape and
turned her nose again to the south.
Off Cape Union the _Roosevelt_ was intentionally forced out into the ice
to fight a way down the center of the channel in accordance with my
deliberate program.
For a ship of the _Roosevelt's_ class, this is the best and quickest
return route--far preferable to hugging the shore.
The voyage to Battle Harbor was comparatively uneventful. It involved,
of course, as does any journey in those waters, even under favorable
conditions, unceasing watchfulness and skill in ice navigation, but the
trip was without pronounced adventure. On August 8 the _Roosevelt_
emerged from the ice and passed Cape Sabine, and the value of experience
and the new departure of forcing the ship down the center of the channel
instead of along shore will be appreciated from the fact that we were
now thirty-nine days ahead of our 1906 record on the occasion of our
previous return from Cape Sheridan, although we had left Cape Sheridan
considerably later than before. The voyage from Cape Sheridan to Cape
Sabine had been made in fifty-three days, less time than in 1906.
We stopped at Cape Saumarez, the Nerke of the Eskimos, and a boat's
crew went ashore. It was there I first heard of the movements of Dr.
Frederick Cook during the previous year while absent from Anoratok. We
arrived at Etah on the 17th of August. There I learned further details
as to the movements of Dr. Cook during his sojourn in that region.
At Etah we picked up Harry Whitney, who had spent the winter in that
neighborhood in arctic hunting. Here, also, we killed some seventy-odd
walrus for the Eskimos, whom we distributed at their homes whence we had
taken them in the previous summer.
They were all as children, yet they had served us well. They had, at
times, tried our tempers and taxed our patience; but after all they had
been faithful and efficient. Moreover, it must not be forgotten that I
had known every member of the tribe for nearly a quarter of a century,
until I had come to regard them with a kindly and personal interest,
which any man must feel with regard to the members of any inferior race
who had been accustomed to respect and depend upon him during the
greater part of his adult life. We left them all better supplied with
the simple necessities of arctic life than they had ever been before,
while those who had participated in the sledge journey and the winter
and spring work on the northern shore of Grant Land were really so
enriched by our gifts that they assumed the importance and standing of
arctic millionaires. I knew, of course, that in all probability I should
never see them again. This feeling was tempered with the knowledge of
success; but it was not without keen regret that I looked my last upon
these strange and faithful people who had meant so much to me.
We cleared from Cape York on August 26, and on September 5 we steamed
into Indian Harbor. Here the first despatch that went over the wires was
to Mrs. Peary: "_Have made good at last. I have the Pole. Am well.
Love_," followed in rapid succession by one from Bartlett to his mother;
and, among others, one to H. L. Bridgman, secretary of the Peary Arctic
Club: "_Sun_," a cipher meaning, "Pole reached. _Roosevelt_ safe."
Three days later the _Roosevelt_ reached Battle Harbor. On September 13
the ocean-going tug _Douglas H. Thomas_ arrived from Sydney, C. B., a
distance of four hundred and seventy-five miles, bringing Regan and
Jefferds, representatives of the Associated Press, whom I greeted by
saying, "This is a new record in newspaper enterprise, and I appreciate
the compliment." Three days later the Canadian Government cable steamer,
_Tyrian_, in command of Captain Dickson, arrived, bringing twenty-three
special correspondents who had been hurried north as soon as our first
despatches had reached New York, and on the 21st of September, as the
_Roosevelt_ was approaching the little town of Sydney, Cape Breton, we
saw a beautiful sea-going yacht approaching us. It was the _Sheelah_,
whose owner, Mr. James Ross, was bringing Mrs. Peary and our children up
to meet me. Further down the bay we met a whole flotilla of boats, gay
with bunting and musical with greetings. As we neared the city, the
entire water-front was alive with people. The little town to which I had
returned so many times unsuccessful gave us a royal welcome as the
_Roosevelt_ came back to her once more, flying at her mastheads, besides
the Stars and Stripes and the ensign of our Canadian hosts and cousins,
a flag which never before had entered any port in history, the North
Pole flag.
Little more remains to be said.
The victory was due to experience; to the courage, endurance, and
devotion of the members of the expedition, who put all there was in them
into the work; and to the unswerving faith and loyalty of the officers,
members, and friends of the Peary Arctic Club, who furnished the sinews
of war, without which nothing could have been accomplished.
FOOTNOTE:
[3] Drowned April 10th, returning from 86° 38´ N. Lat.
APPENDIX I
SUMMARY OF BATHYMETRICAL, TIDAL, AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS[4]
BY R. A. HARRIS,
_Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington, D. C._
SOUNDINGS.--Previous to the expeditions of Peary, little was known
concerning the depths of that portion of the Arctic Ocean which lies
north of Greenland and Grant Land. In 1876 Markham and Parr at a point
nearly north of Cape Joseph Henry, in latitude 83° 20-1/2´, and
longitude 63° W., found a depth of 72 fathoms. In 1882 Lockwood and
Brainard at a point lying northerly from Cape May, in latitude about 82°
38´ N., and longitude about 51-1/4° W., sounded to a depth of 133
fathoms without touching bottom.
The motion of the polar pack was inferred by Lockwood from the existence
of a tidal crack extending from Cape May to Beaumont Island. Peary's
journeys along the northern coast of Greenland in 1900, and upon the
Arctic ice in 1902 and 1906, firmly established the motion suspected by
Lockwood. In April of the years 1902 and 1906 he found an eastward
drifting of the ice due to westerly or northwesterly winds. Moreover,
along the line of separation between two ice-fields the northern field
had a greater eastward motion than had the field to the south of the
line. These facts, together with the water sky observed to the north of
Cape Morris Jesup in 1900, strongly indicated the existence of deep
water between Greenland and the North Pole.
Though few in number, the soundings taken in 1909 between Cape Columbia
and the Pole are of great interest to geographers.
The accompanying diagram shows the results obtained.
[Illustration]
These soundings prove the existence of a continental shelf covered by
about 100 fathoms of water and whose edge, north of Cape Columbia, lies
about 46 sea miles from the shore. In latitude 84° 29´ the depth was
found to be 825 fathoms, while in latitude 85° 23´ it was found to be
only 310 fathoms. This diminution in depth is a fact of considerable
interest in reference to the possible existence of land to the westward.
The three soundings taken between the point of comparatively shallow
water and the Pole failed to reach bottom. The one made within five sea
miles of the Pole proved the depth there to be at least 1500 fathoms.
This is not at variance with the northernmost sounding taken by the
_Fram_, at a point north of Franz Josef Land and in latitude about 85°
20´, viz., 1640 fathoms and no bottom.
TIDES.--Tidal observations upon the arctic coasts of Grant Land and
Greenland were carried out under instructions from the Coast and
Geodetic Survey, this Bureau having been ordered by President Roosevelt
through the Secretary of Commerce and Labor to have such work
undertaken.
The object was to secure observations along the northern coasts of Grant
Land and Greenland at a sufficient number of places for determining the
tides in this region; it being the belief that such observations might
throw light upon the possible existence of a "considerable land mass in
the unknown area of the Arctic Ocean."
Systematic tidal and meteorological observations were carried on day and
night at Cape Sheridan, Point Aldrich (near Cape Columbia), Cape Bryant,
Cape Morris Jesup, and Fort Conger--the periods of time covered at these
stations being about 231, 29, 28, 10, and 15 days, respectively.[5]
The tides were observed upon vertical staves or poles held in position
by means of stones placed around them at the bottom of the shallow water
along the coast. At Cape Sheridan, Point Aldrich, and Cape Bryant igloos
were built over the tide staves. These being heated, usually by means of
oil-stoves, the observers were enabled to maintain open well-holes with
comparative ease.
In order to secure fixed data of reference, permanent bench marks were
established on the land, not far from the igloos or tide staves.
The ice-covering of the water nearly obliterated all wind waves which
generally impair the accuracy of staff readings made in open bodies of
water. The measurement of the height upon staff of the surface of the
water, as the surface rose and fell in the well-holes, was carried on
with great precision, a fact which the plottings of the observations
have well brought out. The observations were taken hourly; and during a
large percentage of the time these were supplemented by observations
taken more frequently, often at intervals of ten minutes each.
The chronometer used in connection with tidal work was compared with
true Greenwich time at New York before and after the cruise to the
Arctic. The comparisons showed that during this period of 461 days the
average daily gain of the chronometer was 2.2 seconds.
The mean lunitidal intervals and the mean ranges of tide, together with
the approximate geographical positions of the stations, are as follows:
-----------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+----------
| | | HW | LW |Mean Rise
Station |Latitude |Longitude|Interval |Interval | and Fall
-----------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+----------
| ° ´ | ° ´ |_h_ _m_ | _h_ _m_ | Feet
Cape Sheridan | 82 27 | 61 21 | 10 31 | 4 14 | 1.76
Point Aldrich | 83 07 | 69 44 | 7 58 | 1 50 | 0.84
Cape Bryant | 82 21 | 55 30 | 0 03 | 6 22 | 1.07
C. Morris Jesup | 83 40 | 33 35 | 10 49 | 4 33 | 0.38
Fort Conger | 81 44 | 64 44 | 11 35 | 5 15 | 4.06
Fort Conger[6] | 81 44 | 64 44 | 11 33 | 5 20 | 4.28
-----------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+----------
The harmonic constants for these places will be given in a paper on
Arctic Tides about to be issued by the Coast and Geodetic Survey.
As indicated by its name, a "lunitidal interval" is the time elapsing
between the passage of the moon across the meridian of the place or
station and the occurrence of high or low water. If two stations have
the same longitude, then the difference between the lunitidal intervals
for the two stations denotes the difference in the times of occurrence
of the tides. If they have not the same longitude, then the intervals
must be converted into lunar hours (1 lunar hour = 1.035 solar hours)
and increased by the west longitude of the stations expressed in hours.
The result will be the tidal hours of the stations expressed in
Greenwich lunar time. The difference between the tidal hours for two
stations will be the difference in the time of occurrence of the tides
expressed in lunar hours.
One of the most important results brought out from the tidal
observations of the expedition is the fact that high water occurs two
hours earlier (in absolute time) at Cape Columbia than at Cape Sheridan.
The Cape Columbia tides are even earlier than the tides along the
northern coast of the Spitzbergen Islands. These facts prove that the
tide at Cape Columbia comes from the west. It is the Baffin Bay tide
transmitted, first, northwesterly through the eastern portion of the
Arctic Archipelago to the Arctic Ocean, and then easterly along the
northern coast of Grant Land to Cape Columbia. That the tide wave should
be felt after a passage of this kind, instead of practically
disappearing after entering the Arctic Ocean, is one argument for the
existence of a waterway of limited width to the northwest of Grant Land.
This suggests that Crocker Land, first seen by Peary on June 24, 1906,
from an altitude of about 2000 feet, may form a portion of the northern
boundary of this channel or waterway.
The tides along the northern coast of Greenland are due mainly to the
large rise-and-fall occurring at the head of Baffin Bay. The Arctic
Ocean being of itself a nearly tideless body so far as semidaily tides
are concerned, it follows that the time of tide varies but little as one
goes through Smith Sound, Kane Basin, Kennedy Channel, and Robeson
Channel; in other words there exists a stationary oscillation in this
waterway. The northeasterly trend of the shore line of Peary Land beyond
Robeson Channel and the deflecting force due to the earth's rotation
tend to preserve, far to the northeastward and partly in the form of a
free wave of transmission, the disturbance resulting from the stationary
oscillation in the straits. The tide observations indicate that this
disturbance is felt as far as Cape Morris Jesup, where the semidaily
range of tide is only 0.38 foot. At Cape Bryant, northeast of Robeson
Channel, the range is 1.07 feet. These values, taken in connection with
the Robeson Channel disturbance, indicate that the time of tide along
the coast of Peary Land becomes later as one travels eastward from Cape
Bryant.
Owing to the comparatively short distance between Cape Bryant and Cape
Morris Jesup, it is probable that at the latter point the crest of the
wave transmitted from the southwest will appear to arrive much earlier
than will the crest of the wave passing between Spitzbergen Islands and
Greenland. In this way the small size of the semidaily tide at Cape
Morris Jesup, as well as its time of occurrence, can be partially
explained.
A no-tide point doubtless exists in Lincoln Sea, off Peary Land.
The semidiurnal tidal forces vanish at the Pole and are very small over
the entire Arctic Ocean. As a consequence the semidiurnal portion of the
tide wave in these regions is almost wholly derived from the tides in
the Atlantic Ocean. The diurnal forces attain a maximum at the Pole and
produce sensible tides in the deeper waters of the Arctic Ocean. Such
tides are essentially equilibrium tides for this nearly enclosed body of
water. The diurnal portion of the Baffin Bay tide produces the diurnal
portion of the tide in Smith Sound, Kane Basin, and Kennedy Channel. In
passing from Fort Conger to the Arctic Ocean one could reasonably expect
to find a great change in the time of occurrence of the diurnal tide in
going a comparatively short distance; in other words the change in the
tidal hour for the diurnal wave would probably be considerable where the
Baffin Bay tide joins the arctic tide.
Peary's observations show that such is the case. They show that the
diurnal tide at Cape Bryant, Cape Sheridan, Point Aldrich, and Cape
Morris Jesup follows that at Fort Conger by respective intervals of
3-1/2, 5, 6, and 8 hours. They also show that in going northward from
Fort Conger to Point Aldrich the ratio of the two principal diurnal
constituents approximates more and more nearly to the theoretical ratio;
that is, to the ratio between the two corresponding tidal forces. This
is what one would expect to find in passing from a region possessing
diurnal tides derived from the irregular tides of Baffin Bay to a region
where the equilibrium diurnal tides of the Arctic become important.
The range and time of occurrence of the diurnal tide at Point Aldrich do
not differ greatly from their equilibrium values based upon the
assumption of a deep polar basin extending from Grant Land and the
Arctic Archipelago to the marginal waters off the portion of the coast
of Siberia lying east of the New Siberian Islands. But De Long's party
observed tides at Bennett Island in 1881. From these observations it is
seen that the diurnal tide has a much smaller range than would be
permissible under the hypothesis of deep water in the portion of the
Arctic Basin just referred to. The diurnal tides at Pitlekaj, Point
Barrow, and Flaxman Island are, as noted below, also too small to permit
of this hypothesis. The smallness of the diurnal tide in the cases cited
can probably be explained on no other assumption than that of
obstructing land masses extending over a considerable portion of the
unknown region of the Arctic Ocean.
No further attempt will be made here to prove the necessity for a tract
of land, an archipelago, or an area of very shallow water situated
between the present Arctic Archipelago and Siberia. A brief discussion
of this question, together with a tidal map of the Arctic Regions, will
be found in a paper about to be issued by the Coast and Geodetic Survey
and which has been already referred to. A few pertinent facts may,
however, be mentioned.
(1) At Point Barrow, Alaska, the flood stream comes from the west and
not from the north, as the hypothesis of an extensive, deep polar basin
implies.
(2) The semidaily range of tide at Bennett Island is 2.5 feet, while it
is only 0.4 foot at Point Barrow and 0.5 foot at Flaxman Island, Alaska.
This indicates that obstructing land masses lie between the deep basin
or channel traversed by the _Fram_ and the northern coast of Alaska.
(3) The observed tidal hours and ranges of tide show that the semidaily
tide is not propagated from the Greenland Sea to the Alaskan coast
directly across a deep and uninterrupted polar basin.
(4) The observed ranges of the diurnal tides at Teplitz Bay, Franz Josef
Land; at Pitlekaj, northeastern Siberia; and at Point Barrow and Flaxman
Island have less than one-half of their theoretical equilibrium values
based upon the assumption of an uninterrupted and deep polar basin.
In addition to these facts are the following items which have a bearing
upon the shape and size of this unknown land:
The westerly drifting of the _Jeannette_.
The westerly drifting north of Alaska observed by Mikkelsen and
Leffingwell.
The existence of Crocker Land.
The shoaling indicated by a sounding of 310 fathoms taken in Lat. 85°
23´ N.
The eastward progression of the tide wave along the northern coast of
Grant Land as shown by observations at Point Aldrich, Cape Sheridan, and
Cape Bryant.
The great age of the ice found in Beaufort Sea.
Items of some importance in this connection, but which cannot be
regarded as established facts are:
The probable westerly courses taken by casks set adrift off Point Barrow
and off Cape Bathurst, the one recovered on the northeastern coast of
Iceland, the other on the northern coast of Norway;
The question suggested by Harrison whether or not enough ice escapes
from the Arctic to account for the quantity which must be formed there
if one were to adopt the assumption of an unobstructed polar basin.
Taking various facts into consideration, it would seem that an
obstruction (land, islands, or shoals) containing nearly half a million
square statute miles probably exists. That one corner lies north of
Bennett Island; another, north of Point Barrow; another, near Banks Land
and Prince Patrick Island; and another, at or near Crocker Land.
METEOROLOGY.--Regular hourly observations of the thermometer and
barometer were carried on day and night by the tide observers.
A brief résumé of the results obtained is given below, together with a
few taken from the Report of the Proceedings of the U. S. Expedition to
Lady Franklin Bay by Lieutenant (now General) A. W. Greely.
TEMPERATURES
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cape Sheridan |Fort Conger[7]
----------------------------------------------------------+--------------
|Maximum |Minimum| Mean | Mean
-------------------------------+--------+-------+---------+--------------
| ° | ° | ° | °
November 14-30 | - 7 | -39 | -23.96 |
December, 1908 | - 5 | -53 | -29.22 | -28.10
January, 1909 | - 6 | -49 | -30.61 | -38.24
February, 1909 | - 7 | -49 | -31.71 | -40.13
March, 1909 | +13 | -52 | -20.87 | -28.10
April, 1909 | +13 | -37 | -15.63 | -13.55
May, 1909 | +46 | -15 | +18.00 | +14.08
June, 1909 | +52 | +15 | +31.51 | +32.65
November 17-December 18, 1908 | - 7 | -39 | -25.75 |
January 16-February 12, 1909 | -21 | -48 | -35.48 |
May 17-May 22, 1909 | +37 | +12 | +22.97 |
June 11-June 25, 1909 | +50 | +25 | +34.17 |
==========================================================================
TEMPERATURES
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Station | Date |Maximum | Minimum | Mean
| | ° | ° | °
-------------------+-----------------------+--------+---------+----------
Point Aldrich near | | | |
Cape Columbia | Nov. 17-Dec. 13, 1908 | -14 | -46 |-31.96
Cape Bryant | Jan. 16-Feb. 12, 1909 | -12 | -55 |-36.68
Cape Morris Jesup | May 17-May 22, 1909 | +35 | +16 |+27.92
Fort Conger | June 11-June 25, 1909 | +54 | +28 |+34.44
Fort Conger[7] | June 11-June 25, 1882 | +44.4 | +26.7 |+34.883
Fort Conger[8] | June 11-June 25, 1883 | +39.6 | +26.4 |+33.393
==========================================================================
From these values we see that from November 17 to December 13, 1908, the
average temperature at Point Aldrich was 6.21 degrees lower than the
temperature at Cape Sheridan for the same period; that from January 16
to February 12, 1909, the average temperature at Cape Bryant was 1.20
degrees lower than that at Cape Sheridan; that from May 17 to May 22,
1909, the average temperature at Cape Morris Jesup was 4.95 degrees
higher than that at Cape Sheridan; and that from June 11 to June 25,
1909, the average temperature at Fort Conger was practically the same as
that at Cape Sheridan during this period.
BAROMETER READINGS (UNCORRECTED)
=================+=======================+========+=======+======+=========
Station | Date |Maximum |Minimum| Mean | Mean
| | ° | ° | ° | °
| | | | | Fort
| | | | |Conger[9]
-----------------+-----------------------+--------+-------+------+---------
Cape Sheridan | Nov. 13-30, 1908 | 30.42 |28.96 |29.899|
| Dec., 1908 | 30.27 |29.28 |29.749| 29.922
| Jan., 1909 | 30.42 |29.18 |29.752| 29.796
| Feb., 1909 | 30.59 |29.03 |29.772| 29.672
| March, 1909 | 30.89 |29.69 |30.282| 29.893
| April, 1909 | 30.58 |29.20 |29.991| 30.099
| May, 1909 | 30.60 |29.39 |30.105| 30.066
| June, 1909 | 30.21 |29.37 |29.804| 29.878
| Nov. 17-Dec. 13, 1908 | 30.42 |29.26 |29.866|
| Jan. 16-Feb. 4, 1909 | 30.40 |29.18 |29.691|
|May 14-May 22, 1909 | 30.52 |30.04 |30.304|
|June 11-June 25, 1909 | 30.10 |29.47 |29.834|
Point Aldrich |Nov. 17-Dec. 13, 1908 | 30.51 |29.35 |29.998|
Cape Bryant |Jan. 16-Feb. 4, 1909 | 30.10 |29.83 |29.976|
Cape Morris Jesup|May 14-May 22, 1909 | 30.70 |30.24 |30.469|
Fort Conger |June 11-June 25, 1909 | 30.19 |29.74 |30.013|
Fort Conger[10] |June 11-June 25, 1882 | 30.129 |29.416 |29.817|
Fort Conger[10] |June 11-June 25, 1883 | 30.218 |29.590 |29.949|
=================+=======================+========+=======+======+=========
The above tabulation shows that during the month the average fluctuation
of the barometer at Cape Sheridan amounts to 1.2 inches, being greatest
in February and least in June.
An inspection of the monthly means shows that the barometer at Cape
Sheridan is lowest for the months of December and January, or about
January 1st, and highest about April 1st, the range of the fluctuation
being about 0.5 inch. These results agree well with those obtained by
Greely at Fort Conger and illustrated by a diagram upon p. 166, Vol. II,
of his Report.
From a tabulation made according to hours of the day, but not given
here, there is seen to be a diurnal fluctuation at Cape Sheridan
amounting to a little more than 1/100 of an inch. The minima of this
fluctuation are fairly well defined from November to April and occur at
about 2 o'clock both A.M. and P.M.
After leaving Etah, August 17, 1908, on the voyage northward until July
12, 1909, thermograms covering 5-1/2 months and barograms covering nine
months of this interval were obtained from self-recording instruments.
These are records in addition to the direct hourly readings of the
thermometer and barometer made by the tide observers and from which the
above results have been deduced.
FOOTNOTES:
[4] Transmitted by O. H. TITTMANN, Superintendent, Coast and Geodetic
Survey.
[5] These observations were made by Marvin and MacMillan, assisted by
Borup, seaman Barnes, and fireman Wiseman.--R.E.P.
[6] Results from Greely's observations, 1881-83, covering a period of
nearly two years.
[7] Observations made in 1875-76 and 1881-83. Greely's Report, Vol. II,
p. 230.
[8] Greely's Report, Vol. II, pp. 196, 197, 220, 221. Hourly readings
used.
[9] Observations made in 1881-83. Greely's Report, Vol. II, p. 166.
[10] Greely's Report, Vol. II, pp. 122, 123, 146, 147. Hourly readings
are reduced to sea level.
APPENDIX II
_Facsimiles of Original Observations by Marvin, Bartlett, and Peary and
of Original Certificates by Marvin and Bartlett, respectively, during
the Sledge Journey to the Pole._
I. Marvin's Observations, March 22, 1909.
II. Marvin's Observations, March 25, 1909.
III. Certificate of Marvin as to the Position of the Expedition on
March 25, 1909.
IV. Bartlett's Observations, April 1, 1909.
V. Certificate of Bartlett as to the Position of the Expedition
April 1, 1909.
VI. Peary's Observations April 6, 1909.
[NOTE.--The originals were all made in pencil in notebooks. The
engravings in line printed in this appendix are reproductions in
slightly reduced size of tracings carefully made of the original
manuscripts. The enclosing line in each case indicates the edges of the
leaf on which the original work was written.
The size of this leaf is, with practical uniformity throughout the
series, 4 x 6-3/4 inches. The facsimiles of Peary's observations of
April 7, 1909, (_q.v._) on pages 292 and 293 have been similarly made
but are in the exact size of the originals. _The Publishers._]
[Illustration: I. (_a_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF MARVIN'S
OBSERVATIONS OF MARCH 22, 1909]
[Illustration: (_b_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF MARVIN'S
OBSERVATIONS OF MARCH 22, 1909]
[Illustration: II. (_a_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF
MARVIN'S OBSERVATIONS OF MARCH 25, 1909]
[Illustration: II. (_b_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF
MARVIN'S OBSERVATIONS OF MARCH 25, 1909]
[Illustration: II. (_c_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF
MARVIN'S OBSERVATIONS OF MARCH 25, 1909]
[Illustration: III. (_a_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF
MARVIN'S CERTIFICATE OF MARCH 25, 1909]
[Illustration: III. (_b_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF
MARVIN'S CERTIFICATE OF MARCH 25, 1909]
[Illustration: III. (_c_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF
MARVIN'S CERTIFICATE OF MARCH 25, 1909]
[Illustration: IV. FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF BARTLETT'S
OBSERVATIONS OF APRIL 1, 1909]
[Illustration: V. (_a_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF
BARTLETT'S CERTIFICATE OF APRIL 1, 1909]
[Illustration: V. (_b_) FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF
BARTLETT'S CERTIFICATE OF APRIL 1, 1909]
[Illustration: VI. FACSIMILE, SLIGHTLY REDUCED IN SIZE, OF PEARY'S
OBSERVATIONS OF APRIL 6, 1909]
APPENDIX III
_Report of the sub-committee of the National Geographic Society on
Peary's Records, and Some of the Honors Awarded for the Attainment of
the Pole._
The Board of Managers of the National Geographic Society at a meeting
held at Hubbard Memorial Hall, November 4, 1909, received the following
report:
"The sub-committee to which was referred the task of examining the
records of Commander Peary in evidence of his having reached the North
Pole, beg to report that they have completed their task.
"Commander Peary has submitted to his sub-committee his original journal
and record of observations, together with all his instruments and
apparatus, and certain of the most important of the scientific results
of his expedition. These have been carefully examined by your
sub-committee, and they are unanimously of the opinion that Commander
Peary reached the North Pole on April 6, 1909.
"They also feel warranted in stating that the organization, planning,
and management of the expedition, its complete success, and its
scientific results, reflect the greatest credit on the ability of
Commander Robert E. Peary, and render him worthy of the highest honors
that the National Geographic Society can bestow upon him."
(_Signed_) HENRY GANNETT.[11]
C. M. CHESTER.[12]
O. H. TITTMANN.[13]
The foregoing report was unanimously approved.
Immediately after this action the following resolutions were unanimously
adopted:
"_Whereas_, Commander Robert E. Peary has reached the North Pole, the
goal sought for centuries; and
"_Whereas_, this is the greatest geographical achievement that this
society can have opportunity to honor: Therefore
"_Resolved_, that a special medal be awarded to Commander Peary."
* * * * *
Among the home and foreign honors awarded for the attainment of the pole
are the following:
The Special Great Gold Medal of the National Geographic Society of
Washington.
The Special Gold Medal of the Philadelphia Geographical Society.
The Helen Culver Medal of the Chicago Geographical Society.
The Honorary Degree of Doctor of Laws from Bowdoin College.
The Special Great Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society of
London.
The Nachtigall Gold Medal of the Imperial German Geographical Society.
The King Humbert Gold Medal of the Royal Italian Geographical Society.
The Hauer Medal of the Imperial Austrian Geographical Society.
The Gold Medal of the Hungarian Geographical Society.
The Gold Medal of the Royal Belgian Geographical Society.
The Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society of Antwerp.
[14]A Special Trophy from the Royal Scottish Geographical Society--a
replica in silver of the ships used by Hudson, Baffin, and Davis.
The Honorary Degree of Doctor of Laws from the Edinburgh University.
Honorary Membership in the Manchester Geographical Society.
Honorary Membership in the Royal Netherlands Geographical Society of
Amsterdam.
[Illustration: THE SPECIAL GREAT GOLD MEDAL OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
SOCIETY OF WASHINGTON
(This medal is four inches in diameter)]
[Illustration: THE SPECIAL GREAT GOLD MEDAL OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL
SOCIETY OF LONDON. (ACTUAL SIZE)
(Designed by the wife of Captain Robert F. Scott, R. N., Leader of the
British South Polar Expeditions of 1901-1904 and 1910-1912)]
FOOTNOTES:
[11] HENRY GANNETT, _chairman of the committee_ which reported on
Commander Peary's observations, has been chief geographer of the United
States Geological Survey since 1882; he is the author of "Manual of
Topographic Surveying," "Statistical Atlases of the Tenth and Eleventh
Censuses," "Dictionary of Altitudes," "Magnetic Declination in the
United States," Stanford's "Compendium of Geography," and of many
government reports. Mr. Gannett is vice-president of the National
Geographic Society and was one of the founders of the society in 1888.
[12] _Rear-Admiral_ COLBY M. CHESTER, _United States Navy_, was
graduated from the United States Naval Academy in 1863. He has held
practically every important command under the Navy Department,
including superintendent of the United States Naval Observatory,
commander-in-chief Atlantic Squadron, Superintendent of the United
States Naval Academy, Chief Hydrographic Division, United States Navy.
Admiral Chester has been known for many years as one of the best and
most particular navigators in the service.
[13] O. H. TITTMANN has been Superintendent of the United States Coast
and Geodetic Survey since 1900. He is the member for the United States
of the Alaskan Boundary Commission and was one of the founders of the
National Geographic Society.
[14] At Edinburgh, at the conclusion of the address to the Royal
Scottish Geographical Society, Lord Balfour of Burleigh presented to
Commander Peary a silver model of a ship such as was used by illustrious
arctic navigators in the olden times. The ship is a copy of a
three-masted vessel in full sail, such as was in use in the latter part
of the sixteenth century. The model is a beautiful specimen of the
silversmith's art. On one of the sails is engraved the badge of the
Royal Scottish Geographical Society, while another bears the inscription
in Latin from the pen of Mr. W. B. Blaikie, which, translated, is as
follows:
"This model of a ship, such as was used by John Davis, Henry Hudson, and
William Baffin, illustrious arctic navigators of the olden time, has
been presented by the Royal Scottish Geographical Society as an evidence
of its congratulation, admiration, and recognition to Robert Edwin
Peary, American citizen, an explorer of the frozen Arctic, not less
daring than his daring predecessors, who was the first to attain to that
thrice-noble goal so long sought by innumerable bold mariners, the North
Pole. Edinburgh, May 24th, 1910."
INDEX
_Advance_, S.S., xxii.
Africa, 75.
Aground, 113.
Ahteah, 131.
Ahtetah, 178.
Ahwatingwah, 141, 235.
Akatingwah, 60.
Alarm of fire, 35.
Alaska, 344, 345.
Aldrich, xxiii.
_Alert_, S.S., 91, 129, 184.
Aletah, 117, 141.
Alps, 166.
American, flag, 30, 294, 296, 335;
route, 5.
Amundsen, Roald, xxi.
Amusements, 109, 181.
Andree, xxvi.
Angakok, 65.
Anniversary Lodge, 130.
Anoratok, 55, 76, 333.
Antarctic, xx.
"Antarctica," 180.
"Antarctic Regions, The," 180.
Arco, 141, 213, 235.
Arctic, Archipelago, 341, 344;
Circle, xvi;
(crossing the, 36), 53, 79, 186;
fisheries, xv;
hares, 54, 110, 127, 138, 182, 189, 315;
moon, 163;
night, 37;
Ocean, 4, 49, 193, 216, 337-344.
Asia, xvi, 75.
Associated Press, 334.
Astronomical observations, 211.
Astrup, xxix.
Atlantic Ocean, xx, xxi, 343.
Aurora, 186.
Austrian-Hungarian expedition, xxvii.
Back River, xx.
Baffin Bay, xxi, xxvii, 3, 88, 90, 341-343.
Baffin, William, xxvii.
Balch, 180.
Bald Head, 33.
Balfour, Lord, 365.
Banks Land, 346.
Barents, William, xv, xxvii.
Barnes, John, 23, 167, 326.
Barometer reading, 348.
Bartlett, Robert, 76.
Bartlett, Capt. Robert A., appreciation of, 269;
career, 19, 20;
decorating the ship, 130;
delayed by leads, 308, 312;
departure from _Roosevelt_, 213;
despatch to his mother, 334;
dynamiting the ice, 115;
facsimile of certificate, 360, 361;
facsimile of observations, 359;
farthest north, 267;
hunting, 141, 179, 182, 191;
in crow's nest, 105;
master of the _Roosevelt_, 23, 111, 326;
pioneer division, 203, 205, 214, 237, 241;
returning to _Roosevelt_, 325;
sounding, 262;
taking observations, 266, 268;
trail, 310, 314.
Bartlett, Capt. Sam, 76.
Bathurst, Cape, 345.
Battle Harbor, 332, 334.
Bay, Baffin, xxi, xxvii, 3, 88, 90, 341-343;
Black Cliffs, 130, 179;
Cape York, 55;
Casco, 27;
Dobbin, 99;
Independence, xxix, 151, 276;
James Ross, 143, 144, 155, 179;
Lady Franklin, 78, 329;
Lincoln, 98, 106, 110, 112, 117, 118;
McCormick, xxix;
Melville, 36, 37, 39, 40, 53;
Newman, 188;
North Star, 38, 73;
of Fundy, 168;
of Naples, 74;
Oyster, 26;
Porter, 118, 120, 134, 140, 142, 143, 276;
Princess Marie, 100;
Robertson, 74;
Teplitz, 345.
Beaufort Sea, 345.
Beaumont Island, 337.
Beechey, Cape, 90.
Belknap, Cape, 134, 138, 188.
Benedict, H. H., 31.
Bennett Island, 344-346
Bently, James, 23, 326
Bering, Sea, xvii, xx, xxi;
Strait, xxi, 290.
"Big Lead," crossed, 232, 314;
described, 197, 237;
Eskimos' fear of, 191.
Black Cape, 118, 119;
River, 120.
Black Cliffs Bay, 130, 179.
Blackwell's Island, 25, 26.
Booth, Felix, xviii, xix.
Boothia Felix, xix.
Borchgrevink, 180.
Borup, Col., 29.
Borup, George, account of walrus hunting, 80-87;
added to expedition, 21;
built monument at Cape Columbia, 325;
captured musk-ox calf, 330;
career, 22;
celebrating, 184;
delayed by leads, 312;
deposited cache at Cape Fanshawe Martin, 325;
division, 203, 214, 237, 241;
farthest north, 243;
hunting, 141, 156, 179, 188, 330;
return to _Roosevelt_, 325;
taking observations, 168;
turned back, 243.
Bowdoin College, xxviii, 296;
degree of LL.D., 365.
Box houses, 123, 177, 178, 188.
Brainard, xxiii, 337.
Breton, Cape, 28.
Brevoort, Cape, 188;
Island, 90.
Bridgman, Herbert L., 16, 25, 27, 334.
British Arctic expedition, 38, 129.
Bryant, Cape, 168, 188, 190, 191, 330-348.
By-pass, 101, 104.
Cabot Strait, 35.
Cache of supplies, 110, 119, 191.
Cagni, xxvi.
Cairn, _Alert_, 129;
_Roosevelt_, 129.
Camp, Abruzzi, 308;
Morris K. Jesup, 290;
No. 4, 237;
No. 5, 237;
No. 8, 327;
No. 11, 310;
No. 19, 249.
Canada, xx, 334, 335.
Cantilever, 55.
Cape, Bathurst, 345;
Beechey, 90;
Belknap, 134, 138, 188;
Breton, 28;
Brevoort, 188;
Bryant, 168, 188, 190, 191, 339-348;
Colan, 134, 179, 190, 191;
Columbia, 4, 6, 7, 130-237, 280, 295, 310-329, 338-341, 347;
Fanshawe Martin, 325;
Farewell, xv;
Frazer, 91;
Hecla, 141, 159, 190, 217, 226, 280, 317;
Joseph Henry, 92, 222, 337;
Lieber, 102;
May, 337;
Morris K. Jesup, 13, 21, 253, 254, 295, 326, 328, 338, 348;
Rawson, 120, 317;
Richardson, 134, 138, 140, 168;
Sabine, 39, 89, 94, 95, 124, 332;
Saumarez, 74, 332;
Sheridan, 5, 6, 38, 77, 88-129, 157, 168, 178, 193, 213,
325, 330, 332, 339-349;
St. Charles, 34;
St. George, 35;
Thomas Hubbard, 21, 110, 295, 325;
Union, 110, 118, 188, 332;
York, 32, 35, 39-46, 70-73, 271, 334.
Cape Sheridan River, 184.
Cape York Bay, 55
Carnegie Institution, 76.
Cary Islands, 38.
Casco Bay, 27.
Central Polar Sea, 38.
Char, 128.
Chester, C. M., 363.
Chicago Geographical Society, medal of, 365.
China, xv, 169.
Christmas, 185.
Clark, 271.
Clements Markham Inlet, 141, 145, 156, 157, 179, 188, 190,
330.
Coady, John, 23, 326.
Coast and Geodetic Survey, 337, 339, 340.
Colan, Cape, 134, 179, 190, 191.
Collinson, Richard, xxi.
Columbia, Cape, 4, 6, 7, 130-237, 280, 295, 310-329,
338-341, 347.
Columbus, xxxii.
Connors, John, 23, 326.
Cook, Dr. Frederick A., 75, 76, 333.
Coppermine River, xix.
Cornell University, 252, 254, 322.
Crafts, C. C., 76.
"Crane City," 223, 316.
Crane, Zenas, 16, 25.
"Crimson Cliffs," 72.
Crocker Land, 5, 341, 345, 346.
Crow's nest, 105, 112.
Crozier, xix, xx.
Daily ration, 209.
Dante, 255.
Daughters of the American Revolution, 30.
Davis, John, xv.
Davis Strait, xxi, 3, 73.
Dawn, 160.
Deep-sea soundings, 210.
Deer, 65, 87, 138, 140, 144, 145, 182.
De Long, Com., xxiv, 344.
Delta Kappa Epsilon Fraternity, 30, 296.
Departure from _Roosevelt_, 213.
Diagram of soundings, 338.
Dickson, Capt., 331.
_Discovery_, S.S., 91.
Dividing line, 40.
Dobbin Bay, 99.
Dogs, Eskimo, condition of, 169;
feeding on return march, 305;
harnesses, 136.
_Douglas H. Thomas_, S.S., 334.
Duck Islands, 37, 38, 39.
Duke of the Abruzzi, 12, 180, 236, 252, 254, 298, 308.
_Eagle_, S.S., 28.
Eagle Island, 27, 28, 31.
East Greenland, xxvii.
Edinburgh University, Degree of LL.D., 365.
Egingwah, 69, 76, 142, 143, 146, 147, 148, 167, 251, 267,
269, 271, 299, 312.
Eider-ducks, 138.
Ellesmere Land, 76, 89, 90, 93.
Emergency outfit, 96.
_Erebus_, S.S., xx.
_Erik_, S.S., 73, 74, 75, 76, 77.
Eskimos, astronomers, 67;
burial customs, 65;
characteristics of, 46;
clothing, 131;
dogs, 70, 135, 169;
fear of "Big Lead," 191;
fish spear, 127;
home of a little tribe of, 36, 39;
housecleaning on _Roosevelt_, 330;
human qualities, 44;
language, 50;
marriage, 59;
method of fishing, 127;
money, 72;
music, 65;
of Danish Greenland, 46;
on shipboard, 98;
religion, 63;
rewarded, 323;
sledge, 135, 217, 219, 237;
theory as to origin, 49;
villages, 42;
whip, 136.
Etah, 6, 38, 39, 43, 46, 73, 79, 88, 89, 90, 91, 95, 96, 103,
106, 124, 170, 213, 333.
Expedition, Austrian-Hungarian, xxvii;
British Arctic, 38, 129;
first of Peary Arctic Club, 11, 12;
German North Polar, xxvii;
Greely's, 329;
Hayes', 38;
Kallistenius, 38;
Koldewey's, 180;
Lady Franklin Bay, 168;
of 1905-6, 2, 91, 184, 302;
Polaris, 38.
Fanshawe Martin, Cape, 325.
"Farthest North" of 1906, 188.
Farewell, Cape, xv.
Field work, 188.
First Despatch from Peary, 334.
Flag, American, 30, 294, 296, 335;
North Pole, 335.
Flaxman Island, 344, 345.
Fort Conger, 93, 148, 168, 329, 339-348.
Fort Totten, 26.
Fourth of July, 331.
Fox, 54, 127, 257, 307, 315, 328.
_Fram_, S.S., xxv, 121, 338, 345.
Franke, Rudolph, 75.
Franklin, Lady, xx.
Franklin, Sir John, xix, 9, 298, 321;
record of death, xxi.
Franz Josef Land, xxvi.
Frazer, Cape, 91.
Frederiksthaal, xxvii.
Fricker, Carl, 180.
Gannett, Henry, 363.
Generosity of the public, 18.
German North Polar expedition, xxvii.
_Gjoa_, sloop, xxi.
Glacial fringe, 194, 216, 314, 315.
Goodsell, Dr. J. W., career, 21;
extract from his journal, 157;
exploring, 106, 128;
hunting, 141, 179, 188;
moving supplies, 138, 191;
reached ship, 325;
recording temperature, 190;
slips from floe, 108;
turns back, 235.
Grant Land, 4, 6, 7, 38, 40, 90, 93, 134, 142, 168, 179, 193,
195, 300-315.
Great Britain, xv, xxiii, 269.
Great Fish River, xix.
Great Greenland ice-cap, xxix, 53, 275, 276, 284.
"Great Night," 161, 183.
Greely, Lieut. A. W., xxx, xxxi, 39, 94, 180, 329, 340, 346,
348.
Greenland, xxiii, xxix, xxx, 4, 11, 28, 32, 38, 45, 50, 89,
90, 102, 130, 187, 188, 195, 211-219, 303, 304, 325, 337;
storms, 166;
Sea, 345.
Grinnell, Henry, xxii.
Grinnell Land, 49.
Grosvenor, Gilbert H., xxxii.
Gulf of St. Lawrence, 101.
Gushue, Thomas, 23, 112, 326.
Hakluyt Island, 73.
Hall Basin, xxii.
Hall, Chas. Francis, xxii, 3, 180, 328.
Hares, arctic, 54, 110, 127, 138, 182, 189, 315.
Hareskin stockings, 257.
Harkness, 34, 35.
"Harrigan," 132, 203, 253, 319.
Harris, R. A., 337.
Harrison, 345.
Hawks Harbor, 34.
Hayes, 38, 180.
Hecla, Cape, 141, 159, 190, 217, 226, 280.
Henry VIII of England, xv.
Henson, Matthew, at the Pole, 296;
career, 20;
celebrating, 184;
chosen for final dash, 272;
hunting trips, 141, 179;
hunting walrus, 81;
interpreter, 109;
moving supplies, 191;
pioneer division, 241;
repairing sledge, 246;
teaches igloo building, 172;
visits Eskimos, 73.
House where Peary wintered in 1901-2, 93.
Hubbard, General Thomas H., 16, 25, 124.
Hubbard Memorial Hall, 363.
Hubbardville, 124, 128.
"Hudson, the," 226.
Hudson, Henry, xv, 298;
Strait, 169.
Hungarian Geographical Society, medal of, 365.
Ice cake ferry, 250, 308.
Ice, dynamiting the, 115.
Iceland, 345.
Igloo, construction of snow, 172, 173;
construction of stone, 54, 57.
Imperial Austrian Geographical Society, medal of, 365.
Imperial German Geographical Society, medal of, 365.
Independence, Bay, xxix, 18, 99, 151, 276;
Bluff, 215.
Inglefield, 180;
Gulf, 73.
Indian Harbor, 334.
Indies, xv, xvi.
Inighito, 141, 160, 167.
Instrument used for observation at the Pole, 288.
Ikwah, 52, 271.
Italian record, 252, 269.
Island, Beaumont, 337;
Bennett, 344, 346;
Blackwell, 25, 26;
Brevoort, 90;
Cary, 38;
Duck, 37-39;
Eagle, 27, 28, 31;
Flaxman, 344, 345;
Hakluyt, 73;
New Siberian, 49, 344;
Northumberland, 73;
Prince Patrick, 346;
Salvo, 72;
Spitzbergen, 341, 342;
Turnavik, 35.
Itiblu Glacier, 74.
Jackman, Captain, 28.
Jackson, xxvi.
James Ross Bay, 143, 144, 155, 179.
Jamestown, xv.
_Jeannette_, S.S., xxiv, xxv, 101, 345.
Jefferds, 334.
Jesup Land, 295.
Johansen, xxv.
Johnson, 76.
Joseph Henry, Cape, 92, 222, 337.
Joyce, Patrick, 23, 326.
Kallistenius, 38.
Kamiks, 132, 209, 257.
Kane Basin, 36, 53, 73, 94, 342, 343.
Kane, Elisha Kent, xxii, 38, 180, 298.
Kangerdlooksoah, 74.
Karko, 141, 203, 253, 266.
Karnah, 74.
Kayaks, 42, 68.
Kennedy Channel, 102, 331, 342, 343.
Keshungwah, 141, 168, 203, 253, 266.
King William Land, xx, xxi.
Kislingbury, Lieut., 329.
"Kitchen boxes," 131, 139.
_Kite_, S.S., xxviii.
Knitting breaks in trail, 207.
Koldewey, 180.
Kookan, 74.
Koolatoonah, 142, 146, 148, 153, 155.
Kooletah, 131.
Koolootingwah, 235.
Kudlooktoo, 213, 218, 220, 231, 253, 319.
Kyoahpahdo, 65.
Kyutah, 141, 218, 220, 223, 227.
Labrador, 32, 34, 35, 77.
Lady Franklin Bay, 78, 168, 329.
Lake Hazen, 118, 127, 141, 179, 182, 188.
Land in unknown Arctic, 339.
Larned, Walter A., 76.
Leads, 196, 207, 221, 222, 236-285, 305.
Leffingwell, 345.
Lena, xxv.
Lieber, Cape, 102.
Lincoln, Bay, 93, 106, 110, 112, 117, 118;
Sea, 91, 342.
Lions of the North, 79.
Lockwood, xxiii, 321, 337.
Long night, 162.
Long, Thomas, xxiv.
Low Point Light, 29.
Lunar hours, 341.
Lunitidal interval, 340.
McClintock, Leopold, xxi.
McClure, Robert, xxi.
McCormick Bay, xxix.
MacMillan, Prof. Donald B., career, 21;
entertains Eskimos, 231;
expedition to Clements Markham Inlet, 157;
finds Greely relics, 329;
his Eskimos overcome, 158;
hunting walrus, 81, 82, 83;
ill with grip, 128, 140;
moving supplies, 191;
reached ship, 325;
reconnoitering, 117;
sent back for supplies, 227;
sounding, 222;
takes charge of sports, 185;
tidal observations, 167;
turns back, 236.
Magellan, xxxii.
Manchester Geographical Society, honorary membership, 365.
Markham, Sir Clements, xxiii, xxx, 49, 180, 222, 337.
Marvin, Prof. Ross G., appreciation of his work, 319;
celebrating, 184;
comes back with supplies, 235;
delayed by leads, 308;
facsimile of certificate, 356-358;
facsimile of observations, 351-355;
last message, 321;
news of his death, 318;
pioneer division, 237, 241, 243;
replaces _Alert's_ record, 129;
returns to "Crane City," 223;
return from Cape Bryant, 191;
soundings, 222;
starts for Greenland coast, 187;
starts south, 253;
takes supplies to Cape Belknap, 138;
taking observations, 168, 249, 252;
teaching igloo building, 172;
tidal igloo split by pressure, 177.
May, Cape, 337.
Mayen, Jan, xv.
_Mayflower_, S.S., 26.
Medals, 364, 365.
Melville Bay, 36, 37, 39, 40, 53.
Melville, G. W., xxv., 298.
Meridian observations, method of taking, 288.
Meteorological observations, 339.
Meteorology, 346.
Method for loading sledge, 209.
Mikkelsen, 345.
Mills, Hugh Robert, 180.
Mongolian types among Eskimos, 49.
Monument to Marvin, 321.
Morris K. Jesup, Camp, 290;
Cape, 13, 21, 253, 254, 295, 326, 328, 338, 348.
Murphy, Denis, 23, 82, 326.
Murphy, John, 20, 23, 75, 76.
Musk-oxen, 110, 151-157, 183, 189-191.
Nansen, Dr., v, xxv, xxix, xxx, 12, 121, 180, 244, 251-254,
308.
Nares, George, xxiii, xxx, 180.
_Narkeeta_, S.S., 26.
Narwhal, 87, 132.
National Geographic Society, medal of, 365;
report on Peary's record, 363;
resolutions, 364.
"Nautical Almanac and Navigator," 289.
Navy League, 80.
Nelson, xvi.
Nerke, 74, 332.
New Bedford, 27.
Newfoundland, 76.
New Land, xxiv.
Newman Bay, 188.
New Siberian Islands, 49, 344.
New York, 2, 3, 6, 12, 25, 26, 34, 37, 42, 53, 76, 92, 111,
121.
Nordenskjöld, 11, 180.
North America, xvi, xix.
Northeast Passage, xvi.
Northern Greenland, 53.
North Grant Land, 90, 128, 194.
North Pole, defined, 291;
flag, 335;
hill, 309;
magnetic xvii, xix.
North River, 92.
_North Star_, S.S., 27, 38.
North Star Bay, 38, 73.
North Sydney, 29.
Northumberland Island, 73.
Northwest Passage, xvi, xviii, xx, xxi.
Norton, George S., 76.
Norway, 345.
Norwegian record, 250, 251.
Note to Marvin, 232.
Nova Zembla, xxvii.
Nunatoksoah, 74.
Observations, tidal and meteorological, 168, 188, 211, 243,
248, 266, 268, 284, 287, 289, 290, 318, 329, 337, 339,
342, 348, 350-355, 359, 362.
Ocean, Arctic, 4, 49, 193, 216, 337, 344;
Atlantic, xx, xxi, 343;
Pacific, xxi.
Odometer, 211.
Ohlsen, 38.
Onkilon, 49.
"On the _Polar Star_ in the Arctic Sea," 180.
Onwagipsoo, 142.
Ooblooyah, 117, 142, 143, 146, 147, 149, 153, 155, 167.
Oomunnui, 78.
Ooqueah, 52, 69, 73, 117, 141, 203, 247, 253, 269, 271, 304.
Ootah, 7, 69, 76, 117, 141, 235, 253, 267, 269, 271, 316.
Oyster Bay, 26.
Pacific Ocean, xxi.
Panikpah, 141, 191, 230.
Paraselene, 175.
Parhelion, 176.
Parish, Henry, 16.
Parr, 337.
Parry, xvii, xviii, xix, xxiii, xxx;
Peninsula, 145, 159.
Payer, xxvi, 180;
Harbor, 92, 93, 94.
Peabody, Geo., xxii.
"Pearyaksoah," 52.
Peary Arctic Club, 13, 15, 25, 26, 27, 95, 103, 124, 204, 253,
326, 334, 335.
Peary Land, 342.
Peary, Marie Ahnighito, 31, 130.
Peary, Mrs. Robert E., xxix, 19, 26, 27, 29, 30, 45, 49, 93,
186, 294, 299, 334.
Peary, Robert E., Jr., 29, 113.
"Peary," sledge, 122, 135, 174, 217, 219, 237, 277.
Peary's observation, April 6, facsimile, 362.
"Peary system," 201.
Percy, Charles, 20, 23, 32, 99, 113, 130, 164, 181, 184, 186,
326, 327.
Percy, George, 23, 326.
Permanent monument, 325.
Petersen, 38, 128.
Philadelphia Geographical Society, medal of, 365.
Phipps, J. C., xvi.
Piblokto, 166, 167, 178.
Pilgrim Fathers, xv.
Pingahshoo, 184.
Pioneer party, 203-205, 214, 237, 241.
Pitlekaj, 344, 345.
Plan, 3.
Plymouth Rock, xv.
Point, Aldrich, 339, 340, 343, 345, 347, 348;
Amour Light, 33, 34;
Barrow, 344-346;
Good, 159;
Moss, 4.
Polar, Basin, 345;
bear, 54, 75, 79, 130, 132, 146, 156, 169, 252, 309, 315;
Sea, 5, 88, 90, 134, 193, 195, 206, 207, 237, 255, 262,
315, 320.
_Polaris_, S.S., xxiii, 38, 91, 102.
Polaris Promontory, 188, 190.
Polar pack, 337.
Poodloonah, 141, 167, 230, 253.
Porter Bay, 118, 120, 134, 140, 142, 143, 276.
Pressure ridges, 194, 196, 205, 207, 217, 250, 260, 261.
Prince Patrick Island, 346.
Princess Marie Bay, 100.
Pritchard, William, 23, 75.
_Proteus_, S.S., 91.
_Protococcus nivalis_, 72.
Rae, xx.
Raven, Anton A., 16.
Rawson, Cape, 120, 317.
Record of 1906, 262.
Recrossing the "big lead" in 1906, 41.
Redcliffe Peninsula, 74.
"Red snow," 72.
Regan, 331.
Reindeer, 54, 110, 118, 143, 183.
Relay parties, 187.
Return in November, 1906, 32.
Return of the sun, 227.
Richardson, Cape, 134, 138, 140, 168.
Robertson Bay, 74.
Robeson Channel, 77, 102, 122, 134, 168, 188, 190, 328, 329,
342.
Roosevelt, Mrs. Theodore, 26, 27.
_Roosevelt_, the, after deckhouse, 31;
aground, 115;
American built, 19;
at Lincoln Bay, 112;
bucking ice, 100, 110;
cairn, 129;
caught off Victoria Head, 95;
collision with berg, 89;
damaged by ice, 114, 119;
departure from, 213;
Eskimo quarters on, 98, 124;
goes on to Etah, 73;
gripped in the ice, 177;
igloos on deck, 175;
in storm, 1906, 32;
in winter quarters, 126;
leaves Etah, 89;
leaves Lincoln Bay, 118;
leaves New York, 25;
leaves Sydney, 29;
leaving Cape York, 72;
leaving winter quarters, 331;
loaded deep, 77;
loading walrus, 87;
method of procedure, 91, 92;
passing Cape Sabine, 94;
passing Payer Harbor, 93;
Peary's cabin on, 30;
put in fighting trim, 75;
reaches Cape Breton, 334;
reaches Cape Sheridan, 120;
reaches Cape York, 42;
repairs and changes, 13;
return to, 317, 325;
return to Battle Harbor, 334;
standing by hunters, 80;
steaming northward, 36;
unloading, 122;
visits Eagle Island, 27;
winter home on the, 162, 166.
Roosevelt, Theodore, viii, 26, 27, 30, 339;
his good-by to Peary, vii.
Ross, James Clark, xix, 334.
Ross, Capt. John, 72, xviii.
Route of return in 1906, 304.
Royal Belgian Geographical Society, medal of, 365.
Royal Geographical Society of Antwerp, medal of, 365.
Royal Geographical Society of London, 49;
medal of, 365.
Royal Italian Geographical Society, medal of, 365.
Royal Netherlands Geographical Society of Amsterdam, honorary
membership, 365.
Royal Scottish Geographical Society, special trophy, 365.
Sabine, Cape, 39, 89, 94, 95, 124, 332.
Sagamore Hill, 27.
Sail Harbor, 134, 142, 145, 155.
Salvo Island, 72.
Sanderson Hope, xv.
Sandy Hook, 168.
Saumarez, Cape, 74, 332.
Scoresby, William, xxvii.
Scotch whalers, 37.
Scott, Banks, 23, 326.
Scott, Capt., 180.
Seal, 65, 250.
Secretary of Commerce and Labor, 339.
Seegloo, 69, 73, 141, 167, 203, 234, 269, 271, 299.
_Sheelah_, S.S., 334.
Sheridan, Cape, 5, 6, 38, 77, 88-129, 157, 168, 178, 193, 213,
325, 330, 332, 339, 349.
Siberia, xxiv, 49, 344, 345.
"Siege of the South Pole," 180.
Skeans, Patrick, 23, 326.
Sledge, Eskimo, 122, 135, 217, 219, 237, 277;
"Peary," 122, 135, 174, 217, 219, 237, 277.
Smith Sound, xxvii, 3, 5, 76, 77, 124, 180, 342, 343.
Sontag, 38, 321.
Sounding apparatus, 210.
Soundings, 210, 222, 227, 236, 246, 262, 304, 309, 329, 337,
338.
"_Southern Cross_ Expedition to the Antarctic," 180.
Spitzbergen Islands, xv, xvii, 341, 342.
St. Charles, Cape, 34.
St. George, Cape, 35.
Stepping Stone Light, 26.
"Storm camp," 243, 306.
Straits of Belle Isle, 3, 32.
Styx, 225, 226.
Summer solstice, 330.
Supplies, 23.
Supporting party, 204, 206.
Sydney, C. B., 3, 6, 23, 28, 29, 32, 42, 77, 299, 334.
Tampa, Florida, 42.
Tasmania, xix.
Tawchingwah, 141.
Temperature tables, 346, 347.
Tents, 139.
Teplitz Bay, 345.
_Terror_, S.S., xix.
Thank God Harbor, 102.
Thanksgiving Day, 179.
Thomas Hubbard, Cape, 21, 110, 295, 325.
Tide, staves, 339;
table, 340.
Tiger of the North, 79.
_Tigress_, ship, xxiii.
Tittmann, Supt. O. H., 337, 364.
Tookoomah, 187.
Tornarsuk, 64, 147, 148, 150, 215, 219.
Toxingwa, 158.
Transportation of supplies, 130, 134, 191, 327.
Tupiks, 44, 54, 58, 59.
Turnavik Island, 35.
_Tyrian_, S.S., 334.
Unexplored inlet, 154.
Union, Cape, 110, 118, 188, 332.
United States, 170, 316.
Victoria Head, 95.
_Victory_, S.S., xviii.
"Voyage of the _Discovery_," 180.
"Voyage to the Polar Sea," 180.
_Wakiva_, S.S., 34.
Walrus, xvi, 65, 77, 79, 80-87, 169, 333.
Walrus-hunting, 80-87.
Wardwell, George A., 20, 23, 101, 326.
Weekly bill of fare, 164.
Weesockasee, 158.
Wesharkoopsi, 84, 85, 142, 145, 168, 235.
Weyprecht, xxvi, 180.
Whale-boat, 29, 31, 79, 80, 84, 95, 123.
Whale factories, 34.
Whale Sound, 3, 54, 74, 79, 87, 328.
Whales, xvi.
White Nile, viii.
Whitney, Harry, 75, 333.
Willoughby, 321.
_Windward_, S.S., 93, 130.
Winter solstice, 184.
Wiseman, John, 23, 326.
Wolf, 54.
Wolf, Dr., 20.
Wolstenholm Sound, 73, 79.
"World's Ensign of Liberty and Peace," 296.
Wrangell Land, xxiv.
York, Cape, 32, 35, 39-46, 70-73, 271, 334.
* * * * *
Transcriber's Notes:
Obvious punctuation errors repaired.
List of Illustrations, "Weeshakupsi" changed to "Wesharkoopsi".
Page 21, "Alleghany" changed to "Allegheny". (the Allegheny Valley
Medical)
Page 32, word "it" added to text. (reason that it is)
Page 59, "tries" changed to "dries" (dries out the oil)
Page 64, "appeciation" changed to "appreciation". (appreciation of
these)
Page 117, "Ookeyah" changed to "Ooqueah". (Ooqueah started off)
Page 141, "Kyootah" changed to "Kyutah". (Keshungwah, Kyutah, and Borup)
Page 141, "Ookeyah" changed to "Ooqueah". (Inighito, Ooqueah, Dr.
Goodsell,)
Page 142, "Wesharkoopsee" changed to "Wesharkoopsi". (Wesharkoopsi, who)
(Wesharkoopsi we took)
Page 145, "Wesharkoopsee" changed to "Wesharkoopsi". (pile for
Wesharkoopsi) (Wesharkoopsi deposited)
Page 154, "Oobloyah" changed to "Ooblooyah". (a camp. Ooblooyah)
Page 160, "Innighito" changed to "Inighito". (Inighito (an Eskimo))
Page 167, "Ooblooah" changed to "Ooblooyah" (Ooblooyah and Seegloo went)
Page 168, "Wesharkoopsee" changed to "Weesharkoopsi". (Wesharkoopsi and
Keshungwah)
Page 177, "floe berg" changed to "floe-berg" to conform to rest of text.
Page 203, "Pooadloonah" changed to "Poodloonah". (three Eskimos,
Poodloonah,)
Page 230, "Pooadloonah" changed to "Poodloonah". (excuses of Poodloonah)
Page 237, "good by" changed to "good-by" to conform to rest of text.
Also in illustrations. Also in titles of Chapters XXVII and XXXIII.
Page 253, "Keshingwah" changed to "Keshungwah". (Keshungwah, with three)
Page 266, "Keshingwah" changed to "Keshungwah". (Keshungwah and Karko)
Page 271, "Ikwa" changed to "Ikwah". (old Ikwah of Cape)
Page 296, "Ookeah" changed to "Ooqueah". (and Ooqueah, Eskimos)
Page 319, "Koodlooktoo" changed to "Kudlooktoo". (come back, Kudlooktoo)
Page 370, "Johanson" changed to "Johansen". (Johansen, xxv.)
Page 317, "Ookeyah, 117" changed to "Ooqueah" and added to "Ooqueah"
page list in index.
Page 370, "Kernah" changed to "Karnah". (Karnah, 74.)