FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT
The class of people most lauded by their own and other nations is that
of the brave and hardy fishermen of Denmark. These men are always
willing to man the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in
peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although hundreds of ships are
wrecked on this dreaded "Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are
invariably saved by these courageous men. The whole length of the west
coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the storms and fogs of the
North Sea. Not one single harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg
and the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and massive cliffs guard the coast,
making navigation both difficult and hazardous. All along this perilous
coast life-saving apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in the
life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the seashore. On stormy
nights the watching sentinels summon by telephone the fishermen of the
tiny hamlets near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A wreck, a
wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately brave hearts and hands
are putting off to the rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait
their husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved. These
fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious work waiting and
watching. It is not to be wondered at that this merciless and cruel
coast is dreaded by all seamen. How thankful they must feel when they
see the great lighthouse at Grenen--the northernmost point of
Jutland--and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel! passeret Grenen" flash
the lights across the water, and both passengers and crew breathe a
little more freely if it has been a stormy passage. Something like
eighty thousand vessels pass by this coast in a year, so you may be sure
the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live on the iron coast have plenty
of rescue work to do.
[Illustration: SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.]
You should see this coast on a stormy day, more especially at Grenen,
where those two mighty seas, the Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the
tempest rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething, tossing
water denotes the meeting-place of the currents. The great "white
horses" in battle array fight, plunge, and roar--each striving for the
mastery which neither gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid
spectacle to those who are safe on shore, also to those at sea if the
day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide berth. Tossing
spray is thrown high into the air and wind-borne to the shore, so even
at a distance from the waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you
be able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale. The screaming
gulls which fly around, dipping and rising, enjoying as only
"storm-birds" can the roar and tumult of these tempestuous waters,
enhance the fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring
"Nature-barrier" saddens you--even while you exult in the madness of its
fury--when you think what it means on a foggy night to the poor mariner.
What a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a famous race
of fishermen here, willing and ready to man the life-boat and rescue
them from the angry, engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas
could be otherwise than kind when you enter their smiling depths for a
swim on a calm, sunny day. How gentle and invigorating they can be the
fishermen as well as the visitors know, and any morning you may see the
former returning from their daily dip with dripping heads and towels
along the shore. Somehow these fishermen are always picturesque. In the
summer evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking their
cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch their boats for the
fishing, they make an impressive picture. Kindly blue eyes and
weather-beaten faces look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue
jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins, complete
the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped, they charm the eye of the most
fastidious, and it is little wonder that they have become subjects for
famous artists and poets.
These fishermen are very devout, and before launching their boat they
all stand round it with clasped hands and bowed heads, offering up a
short, silent prayer for help and protection on these dangerous waters.
Then, pushing the boat out into the water, they jump in while it
floats--sea-boots getting wet in the process--and wave farewell to their
children on the shore, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!"
Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen, has had a
beautiful monument raised to his memory, and his son will show you with
great pride the cups and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave
deeds. These medals have been presented by many different nations whose
sea-farers have been saved by him. Amongst these is one given by Queen
Victoria.
Captain Larsen, a well-known mariner, who, on retiring from his post on
one of the light-ships, settled at Old Skagen, has left a unique
collection to the village. This now constitutes a museum of exquisitely
carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles and metals in
dainty designs, all made by this old sailor during the last twelve years
of his life--a wonderful record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint
fisher-village, nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter itself
from the sand and sea-storms to which these shores are subjected.
Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and cultivating the
heath-lands which lie beyond the village. The fisher cottages are quite
pretty, with thatched or red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast
walls, green painted doors and windows, with black painted foundations
which protect them from the sand. Bright flowering plants in the windows
and the neat and clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and
comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many household duties are
performed at the cottage door in the sandy enclosure surrounding the
little homestead. Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful eye
on the babies, while the women clean and salt the fish, hanging them up
in rows to dry in the sun. In these garden enclosures, also, many
quaintly pretty miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles.
These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters to settle in
them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts and outhouses are adorned with
the name-boards of wrecked boats washed up on the shore, while discarded
boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these curious shelters
worthy of royal hens!
The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of trawling from the
strand. Putting out in a small boat, taking their net with them, to
which a long rope is attached--the end of this being left in charge of
the fishermen on the shore--they row gaily over the water, paying out
the rope as they go. When the limit of this rope is reached, the men
drop their weighted net overboard and pull for the shore, bringing with
them another attached rope which is paid out till they reach the strand.
When they have landed and the boat is beached, half a dozen men or more
take hold of each rope--these are fastened to each side of the
submerged net--and begin hauling it to the shore. The straining muscles
of the men as they march up the beach with a strong, steady, overhand
pull on the rope denotes that this is heavy work. It is a grand sight!
As the net nears the shore the gleaming, glittering mass of fish can be
seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape from their prison,
only the smaller fry succeeding. At last the net with its silver load
reaches the shore with the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the
beach, which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their freedom.
The best fish are picked out and the others returned to the sea, while
the gulls swoop down with querulous cry and gobble all that float on the
surface of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against skate,
and use it only for bait.
St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen, and many of the
churches in the coast towns are dedicated to him.
As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement, the Skaw
fishermen have given an exquisite model of a ship to the church. This
ship is a perfect representation in miniature of a man-of-war. It was
made in Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried it was
wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved by the Skaw fishermen.