MERRY COPENHAGEN--II
The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer, but quite the reverse
in winter. Andersen says "the north-east wind and the sunbeams fought
over the 'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the 'mud-king'
reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer, and the latter bring
forgetfulness of winter's hardships." Certainly, when the summer comes,
the sunshine reigns supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and pleasant
for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and canals, running up from
the sea as they do into the heart of the city, make it delightfully
refreshing on a hot day. Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the
Kongen's Nytorv--the fashionable centre of the town--is one of the
quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on either side of the water,
the curious little shops with sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled
houses, fishing and cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little
puffing motor-boats plying to and fro--all serve to make a distinctive
picture. On another canal-side the fish-market is held every morning. A
Danish fish-market is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane
must buy his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible. The
fishing-smacks line up the whole side of the quay; these have perforated
wooden boat-shaped tanks dragging behind them containing the lively
fish. The market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden tubs, which
are half-filled with water, containing the unfortunate fish. A
trestle-table, on which the fish are killed and cleaned, completes the
equipment of the fish-wives. The customers scrutinize the contents of
the tub, choose a fish as best they can from the leaping, gasping
multitude, and its fate is sealed. When the market-women require more
fish, the perforated tank is raised from the canal, and the fish
extracted with a landing-net and deposited in their tubs. Small fish
only can be kept alive in tanks and tubs; the larger kinds, such as cod,
are killed and sold in the ordinary way. This market is not at all a
pleasant sight, so it is better to turn our backs on it, and pass on to
the fragrant flower-market.
Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise. This market
square is a gay spectacle, for the Dane is fond of flowers, and the
Amager wife knows how to display her bright blooms to advantage. These
vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants of the Dutch
gardeners brought over by Christian II. to grow fruit and vegetables for
Copenhagen, and settled on the fertile island of Amager which abuts on
the city. Every morning these Amager peasants may be seen driving their
laden carts across the bridge which joins their island to the mainland.
These genial, stout, but sometimes testy Amager wives have it all their
own way in the market-place, and are clever in attracting and befooling
a customer. So it has become a saying, if you look sceptical about what
you are told, the "story-teller" will say, "Ask Amager mother!" which
means, "Believe as much as you like." These women still wear their
quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean checked apron, shoulder-shawl,
and poke-bonnets with white kerchief over them; and the merry twinkle of
satisfaction in the old face when a good bargain has been completed
against the customer's inclination is quite amusing. These interesting
old characters are easily irritated, and this the little Copenhageners
know full well. When stalls are being packed for departure, a naughty
band of urchins will appear round the corner and call out:
"Amager mother, Amager mo'er,
Give us carrots from your store;
You are so stout and roundabout,
Please tell us if you find the door
Too small to let you through!"
The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is often foolish enough
to try and move her bulky proportions somewhat quicker than usual in
order to catch the boys. This of course she never manages to do, for
they dart away in all directions. By this means the Amager woman gets a
little much-needed exercise, the boys a great deal of amusement.
[Illustration: THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.]
Sunday is a fête-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels no obligation to
attend a Church service before starting out on his Sunday expedition. A
day of leisure means a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The State
helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and good but inexpensive
performances at the theatre and places of entertainment on Sunday. Even
the poorest people manage to spare money for this periodical outing,
mother and children taking their full share in the simple pleasures of
the day. The Copenhagener looks forward to this weekly entertainment,
and longs for the fresh air. This is not surprising, for many homes are
stuffy, ventilation and open windows not seeming a necessity. A fine
summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream of people--the Danes never
hurry themselves--making for tram, train, or motor-boat, which will
carry them off to the beautiful woods and shores lying beyond the city.
Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a stroll through the woods,
feasting on the contents of their picnic baskets, with a cup of coffee
or glass of pilsener at a café where music is always going on, they
spend a thoroughly happy day. In the evening the tired but still joyous
throng return home, all the better for the simple and pleasant outing.
No country uses the bicycle more than Denmark, and Sunday is the day
when it is used most. For the people who prefer to take their dinner at
home on Sunday there is the pleasant stroll along the celebrated
Langelinie. This famous promenade, made upon the old ramparts,
overlooks the Sound with its innumerable yachts skimming over the blue
water, and is a delightful place for pedestrians. A walk round the moat
of the Citadel, on the waters of which the children sail their little
boats, is also enjoyable. This Citadel, now used as barracks, was built
by Frederik III. in 1663, and formerly served as a political prison.
Struensee, the notorious Prime Minister, was imprisoned here and
beheaded for treason. A few narrow, picturesque streets surrounding this
fort are all that remain of old Copenhagen.
The art treasures contained in the museums of Copenhagen being renowned,
I must tell you a little about them. Two or three of the palaces not now
required by the Royal Family are used to store some of these treasures.
Rosenborg Castle, built by Christian IV., and in which he died, contains
a collection of family treasures belonging to the Oldenburg dynasty.
This historical collection of these art-loving Kings is always open to
the public. Besides Thorvaldsen's Museum, which contains the greater
portion of his works, there is the Carlsberg Glyptotek, which contains
the most beautiful sculpture of the French School outside France. The
Danish Folk-Museum is another interesting collection. This illustrates
the life and customs of citizens and peasants from the seventeenth
century to the present day, partly by single objects, and partly by
representations of their dwellings. The "Kunstmusæet" contains a superb
collection of pictures, sculpture, engravings, and national relics.
Here a table may be seen which formerly stood in Christian II.'s prison.
History tells how the unhappy King was wont to pace round this table for
hours taking his daily exercise, leaning upon his hand, which in time
ploughed a groove in its hard surface. The Amalienborg, a fine
tessellated square, contains four Royal palaces, in one of which our
Queen Alexandra spent her girlhood. From the windows of these palaces
the daily spectacle of changing the guard is witnessed by the King and
young Princes.
Copenhagen is celebrated for its palaces, its parks, porcelain,
statuary, art-treasures, and last, but not least, its gaiety.